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- Herausgeber: Vertebrate Digital
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Upon that Mountain is the first autobiography of the mountaineer and explorer Eric Shipton. In it, he describes all his pre-war climbing, including his Everest bids of the 1930s, and his second Karakoram survey in 1939, when he returned to Snow Lake to complete the mapping of the ranges flanking the Hispar and Choktoi glacier systems around the Ogre. Crossing great swathes of the Himalaya, the book, like so many of Shipton's works, is both entertaining and an important addition to the mountain literature genre. It captures an important period in mountaineering history - that just before the Second World War - an ends on an elegiac note as Shipton describes his last evening at the starkly-beautiful snow lake, before he returns to a 'civilisation' about to embark on a cataclysmic war.
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Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015
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Upon that Mountain
Eric Shipton
www.v-publishing.co.uk
– CONTENTS –
– SHIPTON’S LEGACY FOR MOUNTAINEERS –
By Stephen Venables
Eric Shipton was one of the great mountain explorers of the twentieth century. As a young climber he was brave and skilful, with a prodigious flair for pioneering new routes on remote peaks, far from any hope of rescue. During the course of his life that bold vision broadened to encompass immense landscapes and he was drawn increasingly to the wide canvas of exploration, with the result that we sometimes forget what a brilliant natural climber he was. However, whether we view him as an explorer, or climber, or both, his greatest achievement was to unlock the secrets of so many mountain ranges. The mountains he discovered - and the manner in which he discovered them – remain an inspiration to all who have attempted to follow in his steps.
I first came across his name in 1972. I had just started climbing, I was filled with dreams of far off mountains and was devouring everything I could on the subject. One book in particular seemed to enshrine all my half-formed aspirations. It was Shipton’s autobiography, That Untravelled World. Here was a man who had dared to follow his dreams and whose sense of enchantment sparkled from every page of unadorned prose.
Soon I got to know all the other books and followed Shipton’s travels in more detail, discovering the intricacies of the Nanda Devi adventure, the repeated attempts on Everest and the breathtaking scope of the great Karakoram explorations told in my favourite of all, Blank on the Map. I couldn’t afford to buy first editions and had to rely on borrowed library copies. So I was delighted when a new omnibus Eric Shipton: The Six Mountain-Travel Books assembled all his early narratives into a single affordable volume, complete with well-captioned photos, additional articles, clear maps, pertinent appendices and an eloquent Introduction by Jim Perrin. It remains a treasured and constantly rejuvenating source of inspiration.
Since first reading Shipton’s books, I have got to know some of the people who actually climbed with him – Scott Russell in the Karakoram, George Lowe and Charles Wylie in Nepal, John Earle in Patagonia. They all found him a delightful companion, a great conversationalist, an enthusiast but also a gently provocative rocker of the establishment. And it’s that same engaging personality that speaks through the books; they are immensely readable.
As Jim Perrin points out, the writings would be remarkable if only for their sheer geographical scope. From his astonishingly bold, assured, pioneering debut on Mount Kenya, to Everest, to Garhwal and the Karakoram, to Turkestan, to Patagonia, Shipton’s explorations covered immense areas of wilderness. But it was the manner of those explorations that made them such a continuing inspiration to modern mountaineers. Few of us cover as much ground; none of us has equalled the record of the 1935 Everest reconnaissance expedition that made first ascents of twenty-two peaks over 20,000 feet; most of us would baulk at the frugality espoused by Shipton and his famously austere companion, Bill Tilman; but the ideal – of achieving more with less, travelling uncluttered, attuned to the landscape – remains an aspiration.
As Harold Evans famously pointed out, a picture can be worth a thousand words. It was Eric Shipton’s 1937 photos of the Latok peaks, the Ogre and Uli Biaho that inspired the next generation. In a sense he threw down the gauntlet for John Roskelley, Doug Scott, Jim Donini and all those others who brought modern techniques to the soaring granite towers in what is now northern Pakistan. More recently the spire that bears Shipton’s name has been a recurring magnet for modern American climbers like Greg Child, Mark Synott and Steph Davis. Shipton had the grand vision to reveal vast tracts of previously unexplored mountain country; his modern followers are enjoying the fruits – whether it is the fine detail of a vertical rock tower or the broader sweep of the great Karakoram ski tours carried out by people like Ned Gillete, David Hamilton and the Odier brothers. For myself, with Phil Bartlett and Duncan Tunstall, it was thrilling, in 1987, to try and emulate Shipton, making a serendipitous first ascent above the Biafo Glacier, before continuing over Snow Lake to the same Khurdopin Pass he had reached with Scott Russell 48 years earlier, at the outbreak of the Second World War.
That war saw Russell incarcerated in the infamous Changi jail in Singapore, while Shipton languished more comfortably in one of the few proper jobs he ever had – as British Consul in Kashgar. There he wrote his first volume of autobiography, Upon That Mountain. He ends the book on an elegiac note, describing his last evening on Snow Lake before returning to a ‘civilization’ embarked on a cataclysmic war. ‘The great granite spires of the Biafo stood black against a deep blue sky. At least this mountain world, to which I owed so much of life and happiness, would stand above the ruin of human hopes, the heritage of a saner generation of men.’
Elegant prose from a man who, as Peter Steele’s excellent 1998 biography revealed, was dyslexic and relied heavily on editorial help from some of his many girlfriends. If only some of today’s celebrity adventurer authors could be given similar help. But it’s not just down to writing style. All too often the authors are simply ticking lists, notching up goals. With Shipton the journey was everything, the tantalizing view into an unknown cirque more important than the prestigious summit. Despite his obvious natural flair as a climber, he became increasingly drawn to the bigger picture, the far horizon. And by all accounts he could be hazy about logistical details. Hence the Everest putsch of 1952, when he lost the leadership of what was likely to be, finally, the successful expedition. The irony was that Shipton had taken part in more Everest expeditions than anyone else alive. As an outraged Charles Wylie pointed out, ‘he was the man, he was Mr Everest.’ Of course, the replacement leader, John Hunt, was in his very different way just as charming and charismatic as Shipton, and he ran a brilliant show. But, as Hunt was the first to acknowledge, it was Shipton who had assembled his crack team, including the two New Zealanders, George Lowe and Ed Hillary, who both played such key roles in 1953. And it was Shipton who had, in 1935, first employed the aspiring young Tibetan, Tenzing Norgay.
Even the most selfless, unworldly saint would be aggrieved at losing his chance of global fame. Shipton had obviously thrilled to the opportunity, in 1951 and 1952, to be first into untouched country along the Nepal-Tibet border, all the way from Makalu to Menlungtse, but for a jobbing mountain lecturer and writer, success on Everest itself would have brought useful kudos. The sense of missed opportunity cannot have been helped by the subsequent break-up of his marriage. For a while he began to resemble a character from a Benjamin Britten opera – an outcast, an oddball, a penniless misfit.
There the story might have ended, had it not been for the redemptive solace of mountain wilderness and the realization of new challenges. Like his former climbing partner Tilman, Shipton began a whole new career of exploration in the far south, rejuvenated by the stark empty spaces of Patagonia and Tierra del Fuego. And here again the world he explored has become a magnet for modern climbers. His gruelling first crossings of the great southern icecaps remain a template for today’s sledge-haulers, including his younger son, John Shipton, who is increasingly following in his father’s steps. Likewise on Tierra del Fuego, where one of today’s most imaginative and ascetic mountaineers, Andy Parkin – and his frequent companion Simon Yates – is drawn repeatedly to the mountain ranges Shipton first unravelled. And on the great spires of Cerro Torre and FitzRoy, virtuosos like Rolando Garibotti, Ermanno Salvaterra, Kelly Cordes and Colin Hayley still exemplify the Shipton ideal of travelling light, paring down, achieving more with less.
As for that most vulgarized of all mountains – Everest; there too, during a golden age of new possibilities in the seventies and eighties, Shipton’s ideals were finally realized. The Australian route up the Great Couloir and the Anglo- American-Canadian route up the East Face, which I was lucky enough to join, were both pulled off by a handful of climbers, without oxygen equipment, and without the help of high altitude porters. As for Reinhold Messner’s audacious solo ascent of the North Face – or the remarkable forty-one-hour dash up and down the Japanese-Hornbein Couloir by Erhard Loretan and Jean Troillet – they probably exceeded Shipton’s wildest imaginings.
There is one other quality – seemingly modern but actually timeless – that many modern climbers share with Eric Shipton, and that is the decision to follow the path of their own choosing. There was a wonderful moment in the early thirties when Shipton realized that expeditioning really could become his life, that he could continue to play this endlessly fascinating game, in his case never losing that vital sense of curiosity. That is what makes these books so compelling to every generation that follows. As he wrote in his coda to Upon That Mountain:
There are few treasures of more lasting worth than the experiences of a way of life that is in itself wholly satisfying. Such, after all, are the only possessions of which no fate, no cosmic catastrophe can deprive us; nothing can alter the fact if for one moment in eternity we have really lived.
Stephen Venables June 2010
– INTRODUCTION –
Eric Shipton
By Jim Perrin
Early in 1930 a young planter in Kenya unexpectedly received a letter from an ex-soldier ten years his senior, who had settled in the colony after the Great War. The letter mentioned that its writer had done some climbing in the English Lake District on his last home leave, and asked advice about visiting the East African mountains. Its immediate results were a meeting between the two men, an initial jaunt up Kilimanjaro together, and the first ascent, later that year, of the West Ridge of Mount Kenya – one of the major pre-war achievements of British alpinism.
The two men were, of course, Eric Shipton and H.W. Tilman, and their chance meeting, out in the colonies at the very beginning of the decade, led to one of the most fruitful partnerships and entrancing sagas in the history of mountain exploration. Indeed, the centrality of their role in that history throughout one of its vital phases is unarguable. The chance of their acquaintance and the magnitude of their travels aside, there is another aspect of these two men which is perhaps even more remarkable. For they were both inveterate chroniclers of their climbs and journeys, and the quality of the writings so produced places them absolutely in the forefront of mountaineering and travel literature.
For the span of their contents alone, Shipton’s books are noteworthy: Nanda Devi (1936), his first, deals with the 1934 penetration up the Rishi Gorge into the Nanda Devi sanctuary in company with Tilman, as well as the two traverses of the Badrinath-Kedamath and Badrinath-Gangotri watersheds. From the moment of its first publication, for reasons to be examined below, it was regarded as one of the revolutionary texts of mountain literature, and it remains an enthralling story of hazardous and uncertain journeying with minimal resources through unknown country. Blank on the Map (1938) describes the 1937 Shaksgam survey expedition undertaken with Michael Spender, John Auden, (brothers to the poets) and Tilman – an important venture into a little-known region of the Himalayas which provided a basis for much subsequent mountaineering activity in the Karakoram. (First editions of this very rare title now command fabulous prices amongst collectors.)
From 1940 to 1942 Shipton served as British Consul-General at Kashgar, in the Chinese Province of Sinkiang. During this period he completed a first volume of memoirs, entitled Upon that Mountain, published in 1943. This frank, vivid polemic set out his basic mountaineering creed, whilst also describing his early Alpine and Himalayan seasons, the series of climbs on Mount Kenya, and the four attempts on Everest and two survey-trips to the Karakoram in which he took part during the thirties. His next book was very different in tone. Mountains of Tartary (1950) is a series of light-hearted sketches of weeks or weekends seized from official consular work – in the main during his second spell of office in Kashgar – and spent on Bogdo Ola, Mustagh Ata, Chakragil (mountains which are again coming into vogue in the eighties since China’s relaxation of restrictions on travel). The Mount Everest Reconnaissance Expedition 1951 (1952) was basically a photographic volume, prefaced by a succinct and entertaining narrative about this vital piece of mountain exploration, which cleared the path for John Hunt’s successful expedition to the mountain in 1953. The final book in this series, Land of Tempest, written in 1963, takes for theme the period of Shipton’s life from 1958 to 1962 and includes accounts of three trips to Patagonia – on the last of which he made the first crossing of the main Patagonian ice-cap – and one to Tierra del Fuego.
The above bald catalogue suggests the range, but captures little of the flavour, of this extraordinary man’s life, the brief outline of which is as follows. He was born in Ceylon in 1907, his father a tea-planter who died before his son was three. Thereafter, Shipton, his sister and mother travelled extensively between Ceylon, India, France and England, before the family finally settled in the latter country for purposes of the children’s schooling. Shipton’s mountaineering career began in 1924 with holidays in Norway and Switzerland and was consolidated through four successive alpine seasons in 1925-1928. His first ascent of Nelion, the unclimbed twin summit of Mount Kenya, with Wyn Harris in 1929, and of the same mountain’s West Ridge with Tilman the following year, brought him to the notice of the mountaineering establishment of the day and elicited an invitation to join the expedition led by Frank Smythe to Kamet, in the Garhwal region, in 1931. Shipton distinguished himself on this trip, being in the summit party on eleven of the twelve peaks climbed by the expedition, including that of Kamet itself, which at 25,447ft was the highest summit then attained. His performance in 1931 led to an invitation to join Ruttledge’s 1933 Everest expedition. Thereafter the milestones slip by: Rishi Gorge 1934; Everest Reconnaissance 1935, which he led; Everest and Nanda Devi 1936; Shaksgam 1937; Everest 1938; Karakoram 1939 are the main ones amongst them, but virtually the whole decade was spent in Himalayan travel, and the extent of his exploratory achievement perhaps even now lacks full recognition.
He spent the Second World War in Government service in Sinkiang, Persia and Hungary, went back for a further spell in Kashgar from 1946 to 1948, accompanied by his wife Diana, and was Consul-General at Kunming, in Southern China, from 1949 to 1951. On his return to England he was asked to lead an expedition to reconnoitre the Southern approaches to Everest, in the course of which he and Ed Hillary first espied the eventual line of ascent up the Western Cwm to the South Col, from a vantage point on the slopes of Pumori. The following year he led a rather unsatisfactory training expedition to Cho Oyu. In the late summer of 1952, Shipton having been urged to lead a further expedition to Everest in 1953 and having accepted, the joint Himalayan Committee of the Alpine Club and the Royal Geographical Society performed an astonishing volte-face, appointing the competent and experienced but at that time virtually unknown Colonel John Hunt as leader, and accepting Shipton’s consequent resignation.
This sorry episode effectively formed a watershed in Shipton’s life. After the break-up of his marriage and loss of his post as Warden of the Outward Bound School at Eskdale, which occurred shortly after the events of 1952-53, he lived for a time in the rural seclusion of Shropshire, working as a forestry labourer. He was enticed back for a last trip to the Karakoram in 1957, and thereafter developed a new grand obsession with travel in the southernmost regions of South America, which absorbed most of the next decade in his life. Finally, in his sixties, he was a popular lecturer on cruises to such places as the Galapagos Islands, and leader of mild Himalayan treks. He died of liver cancer at the home of a friend in Wiltshire during the spring of 1977.
This, then, is the bare outline of an outstanding life. The man who lived it, through his involvement in the 1931 Kamet and 1933 Everest expeditions, had attained a considerable degree of national celebrity by the early thirties, yet at that time he was to all intents and purposes a professionless pauper and a kind of international tramp, whose possessions amounted to little more than the clothes in which he stood. There is an admirable passage in Upon That Mountain where Shipton recounts the dawning of a realisation that the way of life which most appealed to him perhaps presented a practical possibility. It happened on the way back to India from the North Side of Everest in 1933. In company with the geologist Lawrence Wager, he had made his way across a strip of unexplored country and over a new pass into Sikkim. Wager’s influence shifted the emphasis of Shipton’s interest away from the climbing of peaks to enthusiasm for a general mode of exploration – a fascination with geography itself. Twenty years later, this shift was to provide his detractors with an easy target. For the moment, his mind works over the ground thus:
‘Why not spend the rest of my life doing this sort of thing?’ There was no way of life that I liked more, the scope appeared to be unlimited, others had done it, vague plans had already begun to take shape, why not put some of them into practice? … The most obvious snag, of course, was lack of private means; but surely such a mundane consideration could not be decisive. In the first place I was convinced that expeditions could be run for a tithe of the cost generally considered necessary. Secondly if one could produce useful or interesting results one would surely find support … ’
When he took into account his reactions to the milieu of the large expedition, (‘The small town of tents that sprung up each evening, the noise and racket of each fresh start, the sight of a huge army invading the peaceful valleys, it was all so far removed from the light, free spirit with which we were wont to approach our peaks’), then the virtue to be made of necessity was obvious, and of it was born what came to be known as the ‘Shipton/Tilman style of lightweight expedition’. I referred above to Shipton’s Nanda Devi as a revolutionary text, and it was just that. I doubt if there has ever been a less formulaic account of an expedition. It has a magical, fresh quality, a get-through-by-the-skin-of-your-teeth spontaneity, a candour, a clear rationale, an excited commitment, an elation about the enterprise undertaken, which no previous mountaineering book had approached. From the outset the terms are made clear: five months in the Garhwal Himalaya to tackle some of its outstanding topographical problems, ‘climbing peaks when opportunity occurred’, on a budget of £150 each for himself and Tilman (some of Shipton’s share of which is advanced by Tilman ‘against uncertain security’). The scenes throughout, from the broken-toed, frock-coated setting-out from Ranikhet to the final descent from the Sunderdhunga Col to Maiktoli, are evoked in a clear and economical style. But it is the message – the simple moral that it is possible, and in terms of response to the landscape and its peoples even desirable, to travel cheap and light, to move fast and live off the land – which is the book’s revolutionary charge, and which was to make Shipton and Tilman, in the words of the American writer David Roberts, ‘retroactive heroes of the avant-garde’.
Two major characteristics distinguish Nanda Devi and were to become hallmarks of Shipton’s writing. The first of these is an intense curiosity-which remains with him, his conclusions growing more authoritative with increase of experience – about natural landforms, whether they be mountains, valleys, rivers, volcanoes or glaciers. This curiosity acts as a stimulus, a fund of energy, in his explorations, continually used as a basis, a point of reference: ‘It was enthralling to disentangle the geography of the region … for me, the basic reason for mountaineering’.
Alongside this drive to understand the physical make-up of a landscape there operates a more reflective principle, very close to traditional nature- mysticism, which Shipton almost invariably carries off with great poise and delicacy, sure-footedly avoiding the obvious pitfalls of bathos or inflation.
We settled down on a comfortable bed of sand, and watched the approach of night transform the wild desert mountains into phantoms of soft unreality. How satisfying it was to be travelling with such simplicity. I lay awaiting the approach of sleep, watching the constellations swing across the sky. Did I sleep that night – or was I caught up for a moment into the ceaseless rhythm of space?
Blank on the Map
A very satisfying irony lies in suggesting an affinity with mysticism of a man who claimed througout his adult life to be an agnostic, and who would probably, even if only for the sheer joy of argument, have vigorously rejected the intimation. Perhaps his disclaimer of religious belief was like that of Simone Weill, and masked a genuine sense of divine mystery within the universe. Certainly much of the interest in Shipton’s writings derives from a tension between the very practical preoccupations with physical phenomena, and a frequent lapsing into a more quietistic mode of thought. (To compound the mischief, I have to say that Nanda Devi puts me in mind of no other text so much as one of the late poems of that most ascetic of saints, St John of the Cross, quoted here in the translation by Roy Campbell:
The generous heart upon its quest
Will never falter, nor go slow,
But pushes on, and scorns to rest,
Wherever it’s most hard to go.
It runs ahead and wearies not
But upward hurls its fierce advance
For it enjoys I know not what
That is achieved by lucky chance.
Those who knew Shipton well sound a recurrent note in their reminiscences which supports the contention that there was a mystical element to his character. It concerns a quality of detachment he possessed, and invariably fastens on a specific physical detail. The following is typical:
He had the most marvellous blue eyes, very kindly, very amused, and very wise. But there was always a sense, when you talked with him, that somehow he was not with you, was looking right through you, searching out farther and farther horizons.
In the course of researching Shipton’s biography, it was remarkable and eventually almost comical how often that impression, almost word-for-word, was repeated. Without the evidence of the text it could be taken as a mannerism, but in his books there recur time and again passages which define his response to landscape as one striving towards a mystical awareness.
In this he is very different to Tilman, his most frequent companion of the thirties, and it is interesting to compare the two men. The ten-year difference in age is for once significant, for Tilman’s seniority ensured that he underwent the determining influence on his character of the First World War, and it affected him profoundly. It is what made him a master of that most serious of all forms of writing, comic irony, and it is what causes him to veer dangerously close at times to a distinct misanthropy. It explains the prelapsarian vitality with which he imbues his native characters, the neglectful portrayal of his compatriots, and the isolation which identifies his authorial persona. In his personal conduct, it provides the reason for his taciturnity, his phlegmatism and unemotional responses to situations. The vulnerability of youth, its lack of circumspection and eager commitment to affection or cause were in Tilman’s case the victims of war, and the survivor, psychic and physical, of that particularly obscene war had need to be encased in adamantine.
Shipton’s enthusiasms, on the other hand, operate under no such constraint. He can indulge his feelings as freely as he will, the zest and gaiety of the twenties glitters around his early activities. He commits himself freely, and as equally with a climb as a journey of exploration or to one of the many women who shared his life. A couple of comments upon him from 1931 by Frank Smythe capture the temperament of the man:
No one who climbs with Shipton can remain pessimistic, for he imparts an imperturbability and confidence into a day’s work which are in themselves a guarantee of success.
Or again, about his climbing:
I saw Shipton’s eye light up, and next instant he went at the slope with the energy of a boxer who, after months of training, sees his opponent before him.
The differences in their characters probably acted as a bond between Shipton and Tilman, and account for their sharing of some of the most ambitious undertakings of their lives. For Tilman, his own youth lost, Shipton’s enthusiasm and boundless energy must have been inspiriting and invigorating, whilst the fatherless Shipton may well have found that Tilman’s wry, benevolent maturity fulfilled a need in him at a certain stage of his life. In mountaineering terms, the roles were reversed, and the more experienced Shipton was the leader. One very telling indication of this occurs in Tilman’s diary for 30 May, 1934. After reconnoitring one of the crucial – and very tortuous – passages of the route up the Rishi Gorge, they have to hurry back to camp. The subsequent diary entry briefly states, ‘Shipton’s route-memory invaluable as usual, self hopeless.’
It has to be said, though, that a change occurs in Shipton’s outlook, especially with regard to mountaineering, during the mid-thirties. It seems to me complex and cumulative rather than associated with specific circumstances. The influence of older companions such as Tilman and Wager would have played a part. So too, perhaps, did the relationship upon which he had embarked with Pamela Freston. But two related events could be seen as decisive in the transition from joyful mountaineering innocence to prudent experience. These were the two avalanches which Shipton witnessed on the slopes leading to the North Col of Everest during successive expeditions in 1935 and 1936. Of the first one, he had to say ‘I am sure that no one could have escaped from an avalanche such as that which broke away below us while we were lying peacefully on the North Col’. The following year, as he and Wyn Harris were climbing up the same slope, this is what happened:
We climbed quickly over a lovely hard surface in which one sharp kick produced a perfect foothold. About half-way up to the col we started traversing to the left. Wyn anchored himself firmly on the lower lip of a crevasse while I led across the slope. I had almost reached the end of the rope and Wyn was starting to follow when there was a rending sound … a short way above me, and the whole surface of the slope I was standing on started to move slowly down towards the brink of an ice-cliff a couple of hundred feet below …
Wyn Harris managed to jump back into the crevasse and re-establish the belay, the snow failed to gather momentum, and Shipton survived. It was the last attempt on the mountain that year. The point is, that Shipton’s faith in the material he was climbing had been undermined – just as in personal relationships, when the trust has gone the commitment is withdrawn. Shipton’s heyday as a climber is delimited by these events. Though there are inevitably some exciting and perilous escapades after 1936 – the climb on the Dent Blanche-like peak above the Bostan Terek valley is a striking example – henceforwards, reading these books, we keep company with a much more circumspect mountaineer.
This line of reasoning inevitably leads us towards a consideration of what is generally and I think rightly regarded as one of the cruces of Shipton’s life – the circumstances surrounding the choice of leadership for the 1953 expedition to Everest. It is very difficult to summarise in brief the main points of what is still a controversial topic. Even Walt Unsworth’s Everest book, which comes nearest to being an authoritative history of the mountain, overlooked important material in its researches which throws a clearer light on some aspects of this vital area. What emerges, from close examination of relevant Himalayan Committee minutes and written submissions from its surviving members, is a bizarre tale of fudging and mudging, falsification of official minutes, unauthorized invitations, and opportunistic and desperate last-minute seizures of initiative by a particular faction. It is a perfect illustration of the cock-up rather than the conspiracy theory of history, from which little credit redounds upon the British mountaineering establishment of the time. The saddest fact about the whole sorry tale is that it appeared to place in conflict two honourable and quite innocent men – Shipton and John Hunt.
There are two basic themes to be considered. The first of these is the general climate of feeling surrounding Shipton’s attitude for, and interest in, the leadership of an expedition which, even in the early stages of its planning, was subject to a jingoistic insistence that Everest must be climbed by a British party. (That this was not to be achieved for a further 22 years scarcely mattered in the event, the national attachments of the first summiteers being clearly turned to the Commonwealth’s greater glory.) This climate of feeling, accepting some of Shipton’s own statements at face value, and drawing in other rather more questionable evidence, particularly that relating to the 1952 Cho Oyu expedition, where peculiar circumstances undoubtedly affected Shipton’s leadership, had drifted towards the view that Shipton lacked the urgency, the thrust, the killer instinct which would be necessary to ‘conquer’ Everest.1 It was immeasurably strengthened by Shipton’s own submission to the Himalayan Committee meeting of 28 July, 1952, in which he expressed doubts about his suitability for the job on the following grounds: he had to consider his own career – with a wife and two young children to support, he was out of a job and needed to get one; he felt that new blood was needed to undertake the task; his strong preference was for smaller parties, lightly equipped.
At this juncture we need to pass over to a consideration of the second basic theme – the conduct of members of the Himalayan Committee over the matter of the leadership. The first point to be made is that the Committee was very weakly chaired. Because of this, the pro-Shipton faction carried the day at the meeting of July 28 and, chiefly through the efforts of Laurence Kirwan, Shipton was strongly prevailed upon to accept the leadership, the contention then resting with the matter of deputy leadership.
However, there also existed a pro-Hunt faction, headed by Basil Goodfellow and Colonel Tobin, who had both been absent from the July 28 meeting. These two men lobbied forcefully that the deputy – or assault – leadership should fall to Hunt, which would inevitably compromise Shipton, whose choice had been Charles Evans and to whom Hunt was therefore unacceptable in that role. The crucial committee meeting took place on September 11. The pro-Hunt faction was present in force, determined to reverse the decision of the previous meeting. The more ardent Shiptonians – most notably Kirwan and Shipton’s old friend Wager – were absent. Shipton was morally compelled to offer his resignation. The rest is history, apart from a few squalid diversions, such as the subsequent falsification of this meeting’s minutes by Claude Elliott, the chairman – in the words of one contemporary observer, ‘as bad a chairman of committees as one could find; he was hopelessly indecisive and hesitant and was too easily swayed by anyone (like Kirwan) who held firm opinions, however wrong these might be’.
What the effect would have been upon Shipton had he led the successful expedition to Everest is a matter for conjecture. John Hunt was patently well- equipped to cope with the ensuing celebrity, and used it tirelessly in the public good. It could perhaps be thought doubtful that Shipton would have enjoyed, and responded so positively, to the inevitably massive public acclaim.
After 1953, his life went through a difficult period, but it emerged into a golden late summer of exploration in an area completely fresh to him. His Patagonian journeys of the late fifties and sixties were a harking-back in many ways to his great Karakoram travels of the thirties. They would have been rendered immensely more public and difficult and perhaps thus less satisfying to him, by the burden of international fame. Instead, he was able to slip quietly away, pursue his own bent amongst the unknown mountains and glaciers of a new wilderness. It is a myth fulfilled, a proper consummation in the life of this explorer-mystic, whose outlook and progress resonate so closely with those of Tennyson’s ‘Ulysses’, from which poem he took the motto for the first part of Blank on the Map, and the title for his magnificent second autobiography, That Untravelled World.
There is a phrase of Shipton’s from this latter book which gives perfect expression to one of the great lives of our century – ‘a random harvest of delight’. That is exactly what the books collected together between these covers are, in general terms. But they are also an opportunity for a new generation of readers to engage with one of the most attractive personalities the sport of mountaineering has ever produced, to keep company with his spare, lithe figure loping off into the ranges, seeking out the undiscovered country, his distant blue eyes lingering on the form of a particular peak, the passage over to an unexplored glacier. If curiosity, appreciation, aspiration and delight are a form of praise – as assuredly they are – then here is one man’s testament of a lifetime spent in worship of the great world around him.
I am a part of all that I have met;
Yet all experience is an arch wherethrough Gleams that untravelled world, whose margin fades For ever and for ever when I move.
It is the epitaph Shipton would have chosen for himself. No man lived out its theme more fully, nor finally more deserved its implicit tribute.
Jim Perrin
January 1985
1 In Upon That Mountain, for example, he had written that ‘there are some, even among those who have themselves attempted to reach the summit, who nurse a secret hope that Mount Everest will never be climbed. I must confess to such feelings myself. [Back]
– FOREWORD –
By Geoffrey Winthrop Young
The outbreak of war overtook Eric Shipton beyond the frontiers of India. His long and self-reliant experience of peoples, places and tongues qualified him for war work of a responsible kind. He returned last winter for a few weeks, writing this book upon the journey; he married, surveyed the home field, left to his wife the publication of the book in the intervals of her own work in the ATS, and again disappeared, upon a distant, responsible charge. The adventures, and this their fashion of issue, seem to me equally characteristic of the man; and it is a peculiar pleasure that their richness of suggestion for the future of mountain exploration should be appearing during my own presidency of the Alpine Club, the parent of all mountain associations. For, as it has been the nursery of the finest of adventurous traditions, so also the Club should continue to show itself the guardian of the new training for fitness of body and spirit which our own hills, no less than distant ranges, will be offering to oncoming generations.
Twice in a lifetime we have seen war – indefensible in itself – eliciting from commonplace or uncultivated men and boys and girls qualities of heroism and acts of supreme self-sacrifice, and educating in the majority of those who by chance survived its dangers a new and finer moral and social conscience. And twice we have had to face the realisation – not agreeable to the educational minded – that our accepted ways of training the young in peace years have been defective; and that they will go on being so, until we have discovered how to stress qualities of chivalry, self-reliance and generosity, and how to soft-pedal their opposites, without having to wait for some periodic purge of war to educate those whom it does not destroy.
Only a contact with realities, realities of endurance, of uncertainty and of service, can train character; and in our early years they must be realities so modified as to test but not overtest immaturity. There is no such reality in the competition of games, or of examination. It can be found only in contests of uncertain issue, and progressive severity, with opposing natural forces: either with other human beings in destructive warfare, or with the elements, waves and winds and height and space. Even during this war we have reflected; and we have begun to retrace our steps in the revival of our one-time splendid sea training. Sea schools, and not only for the future sailors, are one answer to our problem. Another is to be found in this book, in the story of the discipline and spiritual self-realisation which are to be found on the ascent of the Hill Difficulty and in the sojourn among hostile spaces.
Eric Shipton stands in the forefront of our present-day explorers. Since boyhood he has been an adventurer, and since boyhood a rebellious intelligence has held him back from all conventional openings and steered him inevitably into the single positive alternative – the life of a pioneer. He has refused to accept traditional methods even in exploration, and he has gone far towards perfecting a new technique of toughening by travel. Happily, he is also an illuminating writer, and I have for long placed his ‘Nanda Devi’, the first penetration into the sanctuary of that glorious mountain, among the best books of adventure known to me. In the present volume he relates his whole Odyssey from a fortunate boyhood, when even in school holidays he was free to wander far afield, to the week when news of the war found him in the Shaksgam valleys.
In each of his chapters, or stages, we can now see that he set himself to solve some special explorer’s problem: how, for instance, to mountaineer for long and far at little cost, and without the majestic cumbrousness of preceding Himalayan tradition; how to inure the human body to hardship and perpetual rains under tropical conditions, until an absolute fitness is attained, at which point the capacity to enjoy beauty or strangeness begins to function again independently of physical discomfort; how, without large provisioning, to live off a barren or glacial land, even if it means competing with the local bears for the seasonal bamboo-shoot to avert starvation; how again, where even bamboo-shoots are wanting, to carry provisioning enough oneself, even though it meant a schism between the Shipton and the Tilman schools – whether a second shirt is or is not a superfluity for a three months’ rude travel; how again to evade the restrictions of time hitherto imposed by the coming of the monsoon; and again how – but the solution in this case was postponed by the war – to fortify an explorer so that he may be able to continue his work irrespective of the coming of winter and its additional severities among glacial ranges. He traverses new ground, also, when he is treating of the management of temper and mood under primitive conditions; a vital but formerly unmentionable condition of success, which I ventured first to approach, in writing of mountaineering, after the last world war had dissipated some little of our dangerous Victorian reticence.
Eric Shipton is picturing for us, in effect, a transition to which he has been contributing: the ending of one epoch in mountain exploration and the beginning of a new epoch, in which such venturing may well be within reach of all, regardless of the size of a bank balance, and in which such determined courses may even be insisted upon as essential to a training for any form of leadership. He gives us also the answer to another question, of how a post-war generation will be able to accumulate even the lesser funds needed for the new method of exploration. For the principles governing all such adventure, and directing the process of preparing for it, are the same, whether we are setting out as experienced travellers without hoarded pounds for Turkestan, or tramping as boys, upon our hoarded shillings, into the – to us – equally unknown and wonderful hill spaces of Wales or Cumberland or Scotland. Weather, hunger, weariness, loss of route or of temper or of nerve, are to be our opponents in either case, and our own spirit is to become the disciplined ally, whose measure we have first to take and then to mend, until it can serve us as a fit and happy leader.
Like most of us, Eric Shipton started his adventure from two impulses: the one, the urge to try himself out against the unknown; the other, the passion to reach ‘neverendingness’, to be free of that inevitable ‘other side’ which bore so heavily upon Richard Jefferies’ Bevis. Like many of us, too, he was first inspired by Whymper’s writings to look for this realisation among mountains; and like R. L. Stevenson – and again like a number of us – he began with a solitary wandering in France. We can follow his expeditions, almost unaware of the twofold progress we are sharing, until we find ourselves echoing his own dictum, that ‘it is not the approach that matters, but the attitude of mind’, and we realise suddenly the inner meaning and the true end of his – as of all – good physical adventuring. It is not long since the restless spirit of a disillusioned younger Europe was acclaiming the frantic feats of young Fascists and Nazis upon northern Alpine rock walls and in contempt of all known Himalayan risks. It would be hard to imagine a wider divergence, in the method and nature of the undertaking, in the spirit of the doing and in the ultimate effect upon the performer, than that between the stories of those single despairing stunts, to force some self-reassurance from death or from notoriety, and these memories of austere and perilous journeys, pursued in seclusion, and achieving as between the adventurer and his surroundings an always heightened sense of the humour, the beauty and the deeper, harder values of a life lived under natural conditions. I remember Gino Watkins, a forerunner in the art of exploration as a higher art of living, saying that he would prefer to live among Eskimos in the Arctic, but that returns to civilised ways were necessary, as contrast, in order to be able to retain a detached judgment and to renew a deliberate choice. Eric Shipton reinforces this view. Culture and our civilised arts are there to discover to us the apparent values of this or that fashion of living. But, in order to be able to live, in actual conduct, up to these standards, and to develop in accordance with them, we have to undergo real and hard experience. The outcome for us, whether we match our forces with nearer hill and lake and coast, or further glacier, desert and ocean, is to be our escape from hearsay, from wishful book worlds and from wilful creeds, and our achievement of a lively and ennobling inward adventure, by means of a series of inspiriting outward conflicts and travels.
Geoffrey Winthrop Young
– CHAPTER 1 –
The Approach
‘In the calm darkness of the moonless nights,
In the lone glare of day,
the snows descend
Upon that mountain;
none beholds them there,
Nor when the flakes burn in the sinking sun
Or the star beams dart through them.’
Shelley (Lines fromMont Blanc,1816.)
Every child, I suppose, spends a large proportion of its time in a day-dream about trees, or engines, or the sea, or horses, or Central Africa, or some other subject that has captured its imagination. Unfortunately these longings are seldom expressed and are generally submerged by the weight of conventional upbringing and education, but sometimes sufficient remains to have a decisive effect upon later life.
My earliest recollections are of day-dreams about strange countries. My adventures in these places were not very startling, but everything had a quality of endlessness – the rivers went on for ever, the mountains were infinitely high, and the country always changing. My great delight at the seaside was to put a bottle or a piece of pumice into the sea and watch it float away, or on a windy day to throw a rag into the air to be blown away. I used to imagine these objects travelling on for ever, and I went with them. I am glad that nobody pointed out that my bottles and pumice would be washed up a few hundred yards farther along the beach, or that my rags would soon be swept into a dustbin.
