What's Wrong With My Snake? (advanced Vivarium Systems) E-Book

John Rossi

• Herausgeber: CompanionHouse Books
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Serie: Advanced Vivarium Systems
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 178

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

Beschreibung

In this newly updated edition, veterinary and herpetocultural experts provide answers to the frequently asked question, what's wrong with my snake? This fact-filled book addresses the wide range of physical and behavioural problems that can occur during a snake's life, such as parasite infestation, respiratory infection, loss of appetite, and aggression. Both beginning and advanced snake owners will benefit from the comprehensive coverage and appealing format, which includes easy-to-read medicinal charts and instructive colour photos. Above all, this up-to-date manual offers crucial advice on how to prevent problems or keep them from becoming more serious. All snake keepers will be glad to have this vital information source in their libraries.

Leseprobe

Jarelle S. Stein, Editor

Cover and layout design concept by Michael Vincent Capozzi Indexed by Melody Englund

Front and back cover photos by Greg Graziani.

The additional photos in this book are by John Rossi, pp. 5–6, 10, 14, 17, 19–20, 23, 27–31, 34–35, 37–40, 43, 46, 51–56 (top), 57–60, 62–23, 66, 68–70, 72–73, 78–79, 82 (bottom), 91–94, 99–101, 103, 105, 112, 114, 117–119, 121–123, 125, 138, 140–141; Paul Freed, 8, 11, 15–16, 18, 21–22, 24, 32–33, 42, 44, 48–50, 56 (bottom), 76, 81–82 (top), 84, 87, 89–90, 96, 98, 106, 108, 111, 115, 126, 130–131, 133; Don Swerida, 55, 64, 74, 102, 132; James Gerholdt, 83

Copyright © 2006, 2009 by Advanced Vivarium Systems®

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise, without the prior written permission of Advanced Vivarium Systems®, except for the inclusion of brief quotations in an acknowledged review.

LCCN: 96-183295

ISBN: 1-882770-84-6

ISBN 13: 978-188277084-7

eISBN 13: 978-162008042-9

An Imprint of I-5 Press™

A Division of I-5 Publishing, LLC™

3 Burroughs

Irvine, CA 92618

Printed and bound in Singapore

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2

CONTENTS

Acknowledgments

Introduction

1: Selection and Acclimation

2: Disease and the Captive Environment

3: Skin

4: Stomatitis

5: Parasites

6: Gastrointestinal Problems

7: Feeding Problems

8: Reproduction

9: Respiratory Problems

10: Neurological Problems

11: Sudden Death

12: Pediatrics

13: Geriatrics

14: Psychological Factors

15: Choosing a Veterinarian

16: Medicines

References

Additional Reading

About the Authors

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS

The authors wish to thank Steve Barten, DVM, and Roger Klingenberg, DVM, for their support and photographic contributions. Thanks to Pat Grace, University of Florida Extension agent, for suggestions regarding the management of escape.

INTRODUCTION

Snakes are among the fastest growing groups of captive animals in the United States. Although even today many people loathe these slithering animals, snakes have become the focus of an increasing number of herpetoculturists. This recent rise of the popularity of snakes can be attributed to their striking beauty, fascinating movements, interesting behaviors, and docile temperaments (with most species) as well as their ease of care and handling. As the number of snakes in captivity has increased, so has awareness of their requirements and medical problems. Veterinarians, confronted with a growing number of reptile patients, have made tremendous progress in the field of herpetological medicine over the past ten years.

Although there are several technical reference books on the veterinary treatment of reptiles, there are few user-friendly home medical references dealing specifically with the common medical problems of snakes and their treatment. The authors have compiled this concise, easy-to-use manual to fill an important gap in the popular herpetocultural literature. We begin with a general discussion of selection and acclimation. In this overview, we present the important considerations in choosing a species that suits your experience level as well as in selecting a potentially healthy specimen. We discuss the signs of disease, stress, and health problems associated with acclimation. Then we’ll discuss how disease relates to the captive environment and the most common medical problems of captive snakes. There also are sections on problems associated with very young snakes, very old snakes, gravid snakes, and escaped snakes and discussions of emergency treatments for overheated snakes. Look to the chapters on psychological factors and sudden death for explanations of unusual behaviors. A medicine chart is included to help veterinarians dose snakes properly, in case they are inexperienced with these animals. To close the book, several charts are provided to help veterinarians inexperienced with these animals to properly diagnose health problems and to determine the correct dosage of common medicines used in herpetological practice.

The ball python is among the most popular pet snakes. Because it is small and nonaggressive, it is a good pet for beginners. However, the ball python is prone to parasitism and anorexia.

Herpetologist Versus Herpetoculturist

Herpetoculturists are interested in keeping and breeding reptiles and amphibians of all types to fulfill personal needs and goals as well as for commercial purposes. Herpetologists study reptiles and amphibians from a more scientific view and are not necessarily interested in keeping reptiles in captivity or breeding them. Some herpetologists are, of course, herpetoculturists.

In general, this book focuses on disease prevention and presents the many aspects of proper husbandry that help prevent the onset of health problems before they become serious and, in some cases, untreatable.

CHAPTER 1

SELECTION AND ACCLIMATION

There seems to be an endless array of snakes available for purchase. These animals come in all different shapes, sizes, and colors. There are exotics and natives, melanistics and albinos, young and old, rare and common, expensive and cheap, males and females, captive-bred and wild-caught. How do you choose the best snake for you, and is there really a “best” pet snake?

General Selection Considerations

With nearly three thousand species of snakes in existence and hundreds of these presently available as pets, there is no one best captive snake. Many species seem to adapt readily to captivity and eat commonly available food items, such as domestic rodents, whereas other species seem to adapt poorly to captivity or require food items not readily available. It would seem logical, therefore, to choose a snake from the first group, unless you are very experienced in the captive care, husbandry, and maintenance of difficult snakes or have a great deal of time and money to invest in maintaining one of these species. For most people, ease of maintenance is the primary consideration in determining whether to keep a particular species. Following this factor, consider the qualities discussed below.

The Mexican vine snake is an arboreal snake with special housing and dietary requirements. Always research a snake’s needs before purchasing it.

Adult Size

Give careful consideration to the adult size of the snake species you are selecting. For most people, medium to large snakes are better suited for keeping in a home vivarium than the giant snakes are. Burmese pythons (Python molurus bivittatus) and green anacondas (Eunectes murinus), although cute when young, easily grow to more than 10 feet (3 meters) long within their first two years and ultimately reach a length of 20 feet (6 m) or more. Where will you house one of these snakes? Is it even legal in your state to own such a large snake? (Always check with your local government to find out about regulations that may control or restrict snake keeping in your area. See also the box in the following section on snake families for an overview of reptile keeping guidelines established by the American Federation of Herpetoculturists.)

It is generally easier to maintain a captive-bred adult snake than a juvenile because many juveniles have difficulty feeding. If you do purchase a juvenile, make sure it is feeding before you bring it home.

Disposition

What is the disposition of the species you are considering? Although temperament appears to be an individual trait, there are certain species that tend to be more aggressive than others. Arboreal boas (Corallus spp.) have a reputation for aggression, and many of these snakes seem quite willing to bite their keepers.

Sex

In captivity, female snakes are generally more aggressive feeders than males are. The reason is unknown, but we suspect that it may be related to higher energy demands that females have for reproduction. This would suggest that female snakes would be easier to keep than males; however, males have a lower risk of problems associated with reproduction.

Origin

A common question is whether to purchase a captive-bred (born in captivity, usually meaning intentionally bred by a professional snake breeder) or a wild-caught (imported) snake. Wild-caught specimens are usually heavily parasitized and must be treated to remove these parasites. Wild-caught snakes may not adapt well to captivity; such specimens are subject to higher stress levels, which tend to suppress immunity and can lead to additional health problems, such as various infections and gastrointestinal problems and even an increased risk of tumors. For these reasons, captive-bred snakes are almost always preferable to wild-caught specimens. Selecting captive-bred snakes also reduces the demand for capture and importation of wild-caught snakes, thereby helping to preserve them in their natural habitat.

Age

A snake’s age may be an important factor. The young of some species, such as the gray-banded kingsnake (Lampropeltis alterna), are notoriously difficult to get started feeding. For this reason, many experts advise purchasing adults or a well-started juvenile, that is, a specimen already feeding regularly. Even though well-started juveniles may be more expensive, the difference in the ease of acclimation may be well worth the additional cost. With other species, however, it’s easier to acclimate a young captive-bred snake than an imported adult, as is the case, for example, with ball pythons.

Thoroughly research the species you have selected to make the best decision at the time of purchase.

The blood python is a medium-size, richly colored snake. Despite its calm appearance, a blood python can be aggressive.

Appearance (Color Pattern)

The absolute last characteristic to use in determining whether to purchase a particular snake is its appearance. A snake may be beautiful, but if it is difficult to keep, is aggressive, or grows to a very large adult size, it probably will be a source of grief to its owner and thus will be much less likely to thrive in captivity. A snake in this position is, unfortunately, more likely to be abandoned or, even worse, given to another owner who is not prepared for the challenge of caring for a poorly acclimated, stressed snake. Resist the urge to purchase a snake purely on the basis of its appearance. The animal’s temperament and health are far more important factors when making the important decision of which snake to purchase.

Snake Families

One can make some generalizations about the requirements of snakes in captivity by knowing a little about how herpetologists have classified them taxonomically. The family Boidae, for example, comprises constrictor snakes of three subfamilies—the pythons, the boas, and the sand boas. Boidae is largely tropical (most species in this family require fairly high temperatures and humidity levels) and largely arboreal (most species require large enclosures that support sturdy branches to coil around). The rubber boa and rosy boa are exceptions to this rule; they are small terrestrial snakes that can be exposed to cooler temperatures safely. The family Colubridae is a huge group of snakes (approximately 1,700 species) with a worldwide distribution. Perhaps the main generalization about this group is that most species are small in size, making them more manageable in captivity for keepers with limited space or funds.

Boids

Members of the family Boidae (the boids, for short) include some of the most popular and easy-to-maintain species. The following is an overview.

• Small species: Common species include ball pythons, green tree pythons, rainbow boas, rosy boas, rubber boas, sand boas, and spotted pythons. The ball python, when raised from a hatchling or yearling, is among the most highly recommended of pet snakes. It adapts well to captivity and remains relatively small in size. It is slow moving and is easy to handle compared with other snake species. The ball python is beautiful in its normal (wild-type) pattern, though many stunning color morphs are available in the pet trade. The green tree python is recommended only for more experienced herpetoculturists; this species is more likely to bite than the other species in the group.

Although small snakes are usually easier to keep than large ones, that is not the case with the green tree python. It has special maintenance needs and may bite; only experienced herpetoculturists shouldown one.

• Large species: Common species include blood pythons, boa constrictors, carpet pythons, and West Indian boas (Epicrates spp.). Of the large snakes, Colombian boa constrictors are the most recommended for keepers who want a large pet snake; these boas are usually docile, hardy snakes that can thrive even in suboptimal conditions, making them quite easy to care for. Borneo blood pythons and carpet pythons raised from hatchlings tend to become docile over time.

• Very large species: African rock pythons, Asian rock pythons, amethystine pythons, Burmese pythons, green anacondas, reticulated pythons, and water pythons are the most widely available of all large snakes. Statistically, the two most dangerous species in captivity are the reticulated python and the African rock python. The main difficulty with very large species is that herpetoculturists use improper methods for feeding and handling them. The aggressiveness of some very large species, such as anacondas, requires extra caution during handling to minimize the risk of accidents and other problems. At least two people are required to safely handle the adults of very large species. The now defunct, but once pioneering, American Federation of Herpetoculturists established guidelines for the keeping of large boas and pythons. An updated version of these guidelines appears in the following box.

Colubrids

The larger, constricting, rodent-eating members of the family Colubridae (the colubrids, for short) are among the most popular and easy to keep of all snakes. Popular and readily available species include Baird’s rat snakes, corn snakes, fox snakes, gopher snakes, kingsnakes, milk snakes, North American rat snakes, pine snakes, and Trans Pecos rat snakes. In terms of docility, corn snakes (Elaphe guttata var.) and common kingsnakes (Lampropeltis getula var.) are among the most recommended species.

Snake Keeping Guidelines from the American Federation of Herpetoculturists

The following guidelines for the responsible keeping of large constrictors have been presented at several public hearings and served as models for sound regulation. The authors strongly suggest that snake keepers follow these suggestions to help preserve the herpetocultural hobby.

• In consideration of the right of the public to not unexpectedly be exposed to snakes such as large constrictors, and realizing the irresponsible behaviors demonstrated by some snake owners, it is recommended that no snake shall be openly displayed in a public setting outside of proper and established forums, such as herpetological shows, educational displays, pet stores, and events whereby members of the public are forewarned that snakes may be openly displayed.

• All large snakes must be housed in secure enclosures with either hinged doors, sliding tops, or sliding glass fronts that include a locking mechanism. Such enclosures should preferably be contained in a room modified to prevent snake escapes and with a door that shall be kept shut or locked when the room is not occupied by the owners. As herpetoculturists, we all benefit from practices that prevent the escape of pet snakes.

• All snakes must be transported in a manner that prevents the possibility of escape. They shall be contained in a sturdy cloth bag free of holes or tears and placed inside a box or similar container with holes for aeration. The container should then be sealed or locked shut. Care must be taken to use cloth bags with a weave that allows for adequate air exchange. When shipping snakes by air, the airlines must be consulted as to their packing requirements.

• When handling or performing maintenance of any of the giant snakes more than 8 feet (2.4 m) (green anacondas, Asian rock pythons including Burmese pythons, African rock pythons, reticulated pythons, and scrub pythons), another person should be present or at least within easy calling range. An additional person should be present for every additional 4 feet (1.2 m) of snake, that is, two people when handling or maintaining a 12-foot (3.7-m) python.

• No boids (pythons and boas) that can achieve an adult length more than 8 feet should ever be owned by or sold to minors.

• As with other potentially dangerous animals, such as dogs, owners of large constrictors should be aware that they can be liable for the medical costs of treating injuries as well as additional financial damages.

Not all rat snakes are easy to keep. The green rat snake is a desert-dwelling snake that needs to be in a low humidity environment; if it isn’t, the snake can develop respiratory and gastrointestinal complications.

Milk snakes are among the most beautiful of these snakes, but most varieties are too active to recommend for keepers who choose to frequently handle their pets. (Exceptions include Andesian and Sinaloan milk snakes.) North American rat snakes (Elaphe obsoleta) are hardy, but their docility will vary among subspecies. Captive-raised black rat snakes and gray rat snakes are among the most docile, whereas Texas rat snakes may remain nippy even when raised in captivity. Fox snakes (Elaphe vulpine and E. gloydii) tend to be consistently docile but are somewhat more difficult to keep than other rat snakes because of their strong hibernation instincts. Gopher and pine snakes are active when handled, but they tend to be docile and are among the most impressive and most underappreciated of the North American colubrids. Larger colubrid species, such as some varieties of rat snakes and pine snakes, require more food and larger food items than some of the smaller species.

Natricines

Natricinae (natricines, for short), a subfamily of family Colubridae, include the popular garter snakes and the notso-popular water snakes. Garter snakes are small, attractive animals that can be housed (individually) in fairly small enclosures—24 to 36 inches (61 to 91 centimeters)—and fed readily available prey items. Water snakes can be kept in a similar manner, but they are more likely to bite. We highly recommend natricines for beginners as well as for more experienced hobbyists. Selective breeding of rare morphs, such as albino checkered and Florida garter snakes and albino water snakes, has caused a renewed and fast-growing interest in this group of snakes.

Handling Snakes for Examination or Treatment

When we handle snakes for fun, we generally exercise little or no restraint. Often, we allow a snake to glide freely over our hands or arms, and sometimes we allow it to wrap around an arm or leg. However, handling a snake to administer treatment for a medical problem or to perform a physical examination requires restraint. You can restrain most small, nonvenomous snakes by grasping them firmly but gently behind the head, near the angle of the jaws, while supporting the body with your other hand.

Larger snakes generally require more support; five or more people may be needed to restrain a large snake for a physical examination or an injection. Large constrictors—such as pythons, anacondas, and some boas—are very powerful snakes, and an uninformed novice may be unaware of how dangerous these species can be. As a general rule, have an assistant present to handle a constricting snake longer than 8 feet (2.4 m) and an another person for each additional 4 feet (1.2 m) of snake. A thorough physical examination may require two people to restrain a snake while a third person examines the animal.

It’s important to properly restrain your snake when it is being examined. Snakes can be easily injured if they are mishandled.

Always have an assistant when handling any snake more than 8 feet long. Large snakes are very powerful and can be dangerous for a single handler.

A number of devices have been used to assist in the restraint of snakes for a physical examination or for other purposes. These include Plexiglas tubes, foam rubber pads, plastic pressboard, or a snake bag (a pillowcase is a less expensive option). If using a snake bag, you can keep one end of the snake in the bag while you examine the other end or administer injections. Even though plastic tubes and foam rubber pads are commonly used for venomous snakes, they are also excellent for restraining aggressive or uncooperative nonvenomous snakes. The snake is maneuvered into the tube, after which the tube and the snake are grasped and held together. If you are using a foam mat, gently place the snake upon the mat, then press the snake against the mat, using a clear shield. This procedure allows a careful examination, measurement, or treatment to be accomplished with some ease.

Caution!

Because snakes and other reptiles have a single occipital condyle (meaning only one part of the skull is in contact with the first neck vertebra), they are particularly susceptible to cervical dislocation. Therefore, you must exercise extreme caution when handling snakes that struggle or twist vigorously.

Warning!

Venomous snakes should not be handled except as necessary for treatment. The two techniques mentioned here are also suitable for these animals.

To examine a snake, first observe it from a distance, looking at overall appearance, ease of breathing, and luster of the skin. If it is moving about the cage, a healthy snake is alert and moving with good muscular and motor control. A healthy and alert snake will flick out its tongue often to get a sense of its surroundings. Examine the cage for stools; healthy stools are solid and normal in color, whereas loose, watery, foul-smelling stools indicate possible illness. The following guidelines will help you determine whether your snake is healthy or is in need of medical treatment or additional time in quarantine. (See also chapters 3, 5, and 6 for more detailed information on skin problems, parasites, and gastrointestinal problems.)

Plastic tubes are commonly used when handling venomous snakes such as this rattlesnake. They are also useful when handling any uncooperative snake.

Examine the ventral scales, looking for wounds or blisters. There should be no crusting or discharge around the cloaca.

• Mites: