American grape growing and wine making E-Book

George Husmann

• Herausgeber: Edizioni Savine
• Kategorie: Fachliteratur
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Beschreibung

Professor George Husmann, the author of this Volume, is the recognized authority on grape growing and wine making in the United States. His reputation has likewise extended all over Europe. When grape growing met with its disastrous collapse twelve or fifteen years ago, a few bore up under the sad reverses and labored on, hoping for better times. Of this number was Professor Husmann, who had then become prominent in the culture of the grape in that district of which Hermann, Missouri, is the center. Though obliged to give up the vineyards he had established, and to relinquish the publication of the Grape Culturiist, a most excellent monthly journal, he still continued to prosecute his labors and investigations, which have been fitly recognized, among other ways, by his appointment as Professor of Horticulture in the Missouri State University. His first volume, published some years since, attracted wide attention. He now embodies in the present volume the results of all his labors and investigations down to the present time.
(Publisher 1880)

Leseprobe

AMERICAN

GRAPE GROWING

AND

WINE MAKING.

BY

George Husmann.

PROFESSOR OF HORTICULTURE IN THE UNIVERSITY OF MISSOURI.

With Contributions from well-known Grape Growers,

GIVING

A Wide Range of Experience.

ILLUSTRATED.

NEW YORK:

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY,

245 BROADWAY.

1880.

PUBLISHERS’ PREFACE.

Professor George Husmann, the author of this Volume, is the recognized authority on grape growing and wine making in the United States. His reputation has likewise extended all over Europe. When grape growing met with its disastrous collapse twelve or fifteen years ago, a few bore up under the sad reverses and labored on, hoping for better times. Of this number was Professor Husmann, who had then become prominent in the culture of the grape in that district of which Hermann, Missouri, is the center. Though obliged to give up the vineyards he had established, and to relinquish the publication of the Grape Culturiist, a most excellent monthly journal, he still continued to prosecute his labors and investigations, which have been fitly recognized, among other ways, by his appointment as Professor of Horticulture in the Missouri State University. His first volume, published some years since, attracted wide attention. He now embodies in the present volume the results of all his labors and investigations down to the present time.

In order to adapt the work to every latitude, the author embodies the methods and opinions of eminent grape cultivators in all parts of the country. Campbell, Bateham, and Kelley (of the famous Kelley’s Island), speak for Ohio. Cashin gives Maryland’s experience. The author describes the noted vineyards of Crooked Lake, New York. Onderdonk speaks for the pear-line climate of Texas, and in this manner, including some of the most successful growers in California, others than the author, tell their story, each for his own locality.

The work is a complete guide for novices in the culture of the Vine, and at the same time may be regarded as a summing up of everything of importance and value bearing upon this industry.

>- Special attention is devoted to the Phylloxera, whose destruction of the roots of vines had very much to do in bringing on the collapse referred to above, and the destruction of the vineyards of France. The experiments and discoveries of Husmann and his associates in connection with this destructive little insect, are, for the first time, presented in this volume, and will prove of incalculable benefit to the grape growing interests of this and other lands.

The book is copiously illustrated with sketches from the author, which add materially to its value.

It may be presumptuous to present to the grape-growers of this country a book upon “ American Grapes and Wine Making.’’ My first little book, “ Grapes and Wine" was published more than fourteen years ago ; of this no one sees the imperfections more clearly than myself; it was hastily written, and hurriedly thrown together in the press of business. Yet it met with flattering success, and it seems to have met a want felt by many as a simple guide, written by a practical worker in the operations of the vineyard, the vintage, and the cellar. If I am to believe the many pleasing letters from all sections of the country, it must have been an actual help to the uninitiated. Many and great have been the changes since then. Our beloved calling, entered upon so enthusiastically, and promising so brightly, has since met with many reverses. Prices, in consequence of over production of inferior grapes and wines, came down to their lowest ebb, diseases, and other disasters have occurred, and for a time it seemed almost as if grape growing had become a failure. Many who entered the ranks with high hopes, saw them frustrated, and left in disgust; many thousands of acres, once covered with promising vineyards, have been abandoned and rooted up, and the grape supplanted by cereals.

But while the reverses have been manifold, we can also record some successes, and those who have persevered, now begin to look forward to brighter days. The faithful workers, those who have followed grape-growing because of their innate love for it, have kept on experimenting, and perhaps no fruit has made greater progress in the accession of new varieties of decided merit, than the grape. If our hopes are no longer so sanguine as before, we think we see our way clear to a sure, if moderate, success. The failing vineyards of Europe and the sudden demand for American vines, has shown us the way we should follow ; and the class of grapes on which we can place reliance, was demonstrated to us by our own failures with others.

It would, therefore, seem a duty, as well as a pleasure, to come once more before my old friends—tell them what I have learned by bitter experience, remedy the defects of my former little book, as far as I see them, and cheer them on if I can. On a recent Eastern trip, when I visited the vineyards of Western New York, and saw with my own eyes, the progress made there, the many varieties of promise, and immense crop of grapes of superior quality, I became convinced, more than ever, that America is yet to be the Vineland of the future, and that each part of our country has its own mission to fulfill; its own varieties to cultivate ; its peculiar class of wines to make, and that our task has but just commenced. This must plead my excuse for the presentation of this little volume.

I have been compelled to omit historical remarks, as the aim of the present book is only to be useful to every one, and to present the subject in the most condensed form. It may be the pleasing task of my declining years to gather and record the labors of our pioneers in grape culture, and should I ever find leisure for it, it will certainly be a labor of love.

With the experience we have gained, the varieties we now have, and the progress we have made generally, we will work on a surer basis, and, therefore, be more certain of success, than under the first flush of seeming prosperity. It appears even probable that this Continent, in its aestivalis and cur difolia varieties, will have to furnish the only reliable basis upon which the failing vineyards of Europe and California, where all the varieties of the vinifera fall before the hidden ravages of their underground enemy, the Phylloxera, can be rejuvenated. Millions upon millions of American cuttings and vines have already been shipped to France, and are growing there now, and the French vignerons, who, but a few years ago, trembled for the very existence of their beloved calling, now concede that the only remedy, applicable everywhere, is the cultivation of American varieties, either as stocks to graft upon, or to furnish the grapes direct. The wines made by our grape-growers have been introduced there, submitted to the most critical tests, and pronounced so good that they have been found worthy to be compared with the famous brands of their own vintages. The Phylloxera has appeared in California also, and although as yet confined to a few districts and vineyards, there can be little doubt that it will run eventually the same course, and that the same remedies will be required.

Shipments of cuttings and vines of our native varieties have already been made during the last winter, and will doubtless be made in larger quantities during the present year.

Wishing to make the book as cosmopolitan as possible, and of use to the grape-growers of the whole country, I have, therefore, solicited the help of eminent cultivators of the vine in different sections. The kind responses received I intend to append to the part devoted to grape growing, as received from them, and they will form one of the most valuable features of the book, giving the experience of practical workers from the South, as well as the North.

Requesting a kind welcome for my little volume, among all who love the grape and its culture,

I remain, their friend and fellow laborer,

GEORGE HUSMANN.

Columbia, Mo., April, 1880.

PART I.

THE CULTURE OF AMERICAN GRAPES AND VARIETIES.

CHAPTER I.

THE CLASSIFICATION OF GRAPES.

It is only within comparatively few years that much attention has been given to the parentage of our cultivated varieties of native grapes, as it was formerly thought to be of little or no importance whether a variety was derived from one or another of the few native species. More recent experience has shown that the varieties of a species, however widely they may differ from one another in some respects, agree in other points, and however far the varieties may be removed from the native type, they retain certain characters which indicate a common parentage. On the other hand, if we know from which species a variety is derived, we can, with a fair degree of certainty, predict its general behavior in cultivation, and in a great degree its value. This is so generally true that the experienced viticulturists of the present day regard the origin or parentage of the cultivated varieties as a matter of the first importance. It is not in the character of the fruit alone that our varieties differ, as they are derived from one or another of the native species, but the foliage, the wood, the tendrils, the roots, and other parts of the vine retain their peculiarities ; and hardiness not only as regards the ability to endure cold uninjured, but the ability to resist the attacks of both parasitic plants and insects, or whatever else affects the health of the plant is now known to be transmitted with as much certainty, if not, indeed, more surely, than are the form and quality of the fruit.

In classifying the numerous varieties now on the lists, they are grouped according to the species of Vitis (the botanical name of the grape genus), from which they are known to be, or supposed to be, derived, and the name of the species is given to the class. Thus, when a variety is spoken of as “belonging to the aestivalis class,” it is to be understood that it descended from, or is derived from, the native species of grape called by botanists, Vitis aestivalis. So, when in speaking of a variety we, for the sake of brevity, say “it is an aestivalis,” it is equivalent to saying that it belongs to the class of varieties derived from the species of that name.

All of the European grapes are regarded as having their origin in Vitis vinifera of the old world, a species which, though it has been cultivated from the earliest recorded time, is nowhere known in the wild state. The varieties of this, while generally unsuccessful east of the Rocky Mountains, succeed admirably in the climate of the Pacific Coast, and, until very recently, have been cultivated there to the exclusion of all others. It is of interest to our grape-growers principally on account of the hybrids which have been produced between it and our own native grapes. The varieties of the European grape differ from ours in their leaves, which are “ smoothish,” and, when young, shining; they are more or less deeply 5 to 7-lobed, the lobes pointed and sharply toothed; the flesh of the berry adheres to the skin, while the seeds have a narrow and usually proportionately longer beak than in any of the native varieties.

There are throughout North America, eight or nine species admitted by botanists as distinct, four only of which have yielded varieties of cultivation ; these are :

Without attempting elaborate botanical descriptions, we give here a few brief popular notes on each, species ; the varieties derived from them will be found grouped together in their proper places. It may be remarked here that the species vary to a great extent in their wild condition, and it is often the case that those most familiar with grapes find it very difficult to decide to which species to refer a given specimen. That most thorough botanist and keen observer, Doct. George Engelmann, of St. Louis, Mo., found that the seeds give, in most cases, more constant marks by which to distinguish the species, than could be found elsewhere. Those who are interested in the botanical aspects of grape culture are referred to an illustrated article prepared by him for the “ Bushberg Catalogue,*’ published by Bush & Son & Meissner, Bushberg, Mo.

1. Vitis Labrusca, Linn.—The specific name, Labrusca, is the ancient Latin one for a wild vine. This species, the well known Wild, or Fox Grape, extends from Canada to the Gulf, but is rarely found in the Valley of the Mississippi. It is common in moist woods or thickets, and sometimes reaches the tops of the highest trees. The leaves are large and thick, often entire, and coated on the underside with a thick, whitish, or rusty wool: berries large, dark-purple, or amber-colored, with a tough pulp and a strong, “foxy,” or musky odor; the most common grape of the Northern woods, and presents a great variety in the wild state ; has given rise to an important series of table grapes, of which the best known are the Concord, and several useful hybrids.

2. Vitis jestiyalis, Michaux.—The term Summer Grape is the equivalent of the specific name. This has large leaves, which are clothed on the underside with loose cottony or woolly down, which is bright red or rusty, “smoothish” when old ; the clusters slender, compact, dark-blue or black, with a bloom. It is the latest flowering of all the Northern species ; its range is more Southern and Western than the preceding, and it reaches great perfection in Missouri, Kansas, Arkansas, and Indian Territory. Norton’s Virginia and Herbemont are prominent among the varieties, as will be seen at the proper place, in the “ aestivalis class.”

3. Vitis cordifolia, Michaux; and Vitis riparia, Michaux.—Michaux described two species of the Winter or Frost Grape, one as V. cordifolia (the heart-shaped leaved), and the other as V. riparia (of the river banks). The two were kept distinct by Torrey & Gray in the “ Flora of North America" (1838). In the “Flora of the State of New York ” (1843), Doct. Torrey gives both species, and says of T. riparia: “This species is most readily distinguished from the preceding ( V. cordifolia), with which it is often confounded, by its incisely serrate leaves.” Doct. Gray in his “Manual of the Botany of the Northern States" (185G), unites the two under V. cordifolia, Michaux, and says : “ Var. riparia has the leaves broader and cut-lobed.” (7". riparia, Michx). Doct. Chapman in his “ Flora of the Southern II. S.” (1860), follows the same arrangement as Gray. Later, Doct. Engelmann in Riley’s “ Report on the Insects of Missouri” (1874), and in the “Bushberg Catalogue,” again restores Michaux’s arrangement, and gives both Vitis cordifolia and 7". riparia. Those who are aware of the acuteness he brings to the investigation of obscure subjects, and the high esteem in which he is held in the botanical world, will attach great importance to Doct. Engelmann’s views.

According to him, besides the difference in the leates, the fruit of V. cordifolia is black, without a bloom, ripens late, and has a “strong and very fetid aromatic taste, which unfits it for making into preserves, or for pressing wine.” In V. riparia he says that the berries are usually larger than in the last, mostly with a bloom, ripens much earlier, and is much pleasanter. While no cultivated varieties of V. cordifolia are known, V. riparia gives several, the best known of which is Clinton. In a strict botanical classification it might be necessary to keep these two species distinct, but in a viticultural arrangement, where the cordifolia class has become established by usage, it seems hardly worth while to insist upon calling it the “riparia class.” As the V. cordifolia, as understood by Engelmann, affords no cultivated varieties, no confusion is likely to result from the use of the term cordifolia, to designate that class of grapes of which the Clinton and Taylor are best known, and which the Elvira promises to bring into greater prominence than it has heretofore enjoyed. The remaining species :

4. Vitis vulpina, Linnaeus (“the foxy”), has been called V. rotundifolia (the “round-leaved”) by some later authors. It is not found north of Maryland, and extends into Florida. It rambles to a great distance, has a close, smooth bark like a beech tree, heart-shaped leaves, shining on both surfaces ; the berries, one-half to three-fourths inch in diameter, are very few in a cluster, dropping as soon as ripe, bluish-black (with light-colored varieties), with a very thick and leathery skin and a strong and peculiar flavor. This is the parent of the much talked of Scuppernong, Mish, and others. It is called Bullace, and also Muscadine.

The important hybrids are mentioned under the class to which the native parent belongs. The term hybrid is properly used only where the variety results from the union of two other varieties from distinct species; the Catawba and Clinton, or the Concord and Black Prince, by their union, would in each case produce a hybrid ; an Ives fertilized by the pollen of Martha, would produce, not a true hybrid, but merely a cross, as both varieties belong to the same species, the Labrusca.

CHAPTER II.

PROPAGATION OF THE VINES.—BY SEEDS.

While the raising of grape vines from the seed is more a labor of love, than of actual profit, yet its influence on grape culture generally has been so great, and we are already indebted so largely to its zealous followers, that it cannot be entirely omitted in a work like this. We can not gain further perfection in varieties without this, and the success which has already attended the labors of Rogers, Wylie, Campbell, Ricketts, Muench, Miller, Weydemeier, Langendoerfer, and especially Mr. Jacob Rommel, in giving to us the Elvira, and other varieties still more promising, affords hopes of even more important results.

To begin then at the beginning : choose your seed from a good stock. I am inclined to believe that only the aestivalis and cordifolia (or riparia, as Engelmann has it) species will give us the true wine grapes of the country, and if we can increase their size somewhat, they will also be the best table grapes. We have them already as large as the Catawba, and they are more juicy, of finer flavor, and less pulpy than the varieties from the Labrusca species, while they are much more healthy and hardy. Remember that we have already too many varieties, and that every new one we add should have some decided merit over any of the old varieties, or else be discarded at once.

Choose the best berries and the most perfect bunches, from which to take the seed, and either sow in autumi;, and cover, or keep them over winter, mixing the seeds with moist sand, when separated from the pulp, to insure ready germination. Sow early in spring, in well pulverized clay soil, in drills one foot apart, and drop the seeds about an inch apart in the rows, covering about three-quarters of an inch deep, with finely pulverized soil. When the young plants appear, keep them clean and well cultivated through the summer; in the fall take them up carefully, and put in well drained fine soil, so as to preserve their roots in the most perfect condition. It will be well, during the summer, to look over them frequently, and if any of them show disease in the leaf, pull them up at once, as it is useless to save such as are feeble and unhealthy. It may also be well to shade the young vines for the first month or so, to prevent the sun from scalding them while yet young and tender, and if any of them grow remarkably strong, give them small sticks for support. In the following spring they may be transplanted to their permanent location in the vineyard or garden. The ground for their reception should be moderately light and rich, and loosened to the depth of at least 18 inches.

Make a hole about 8 inches deep, then throw in soil so as to raise a small mound in the center of the hole, about 2 inches high; shorten the top of the young vine to about 6 inches, and then place it on the mound, spreading its roots well in all directions; fill up with well pulverized soil, until the upper eye is even with the surface of the ground. Then press the soil lightly, place a good stake about 4 feet high with each vine, and when the buds start, allow but one sprout to grow, which is to be tied neatly to the stake. The vines may be planted in rows 6 feet apart, and 3 feet apart in the rows, as many of them will prove worthless, and have to be discarded. Allow all the laterals to grow on the young cane, as this will make it stocky and short-jointed. Cultivate well and frequently, keeping the soil loose and mellow.

The second season the seedlings will generally make from 3 to 4 feet of short-jointed growth; in the fall of that year they should be cut back to about three buds, and have the ground drawn up around them for protection in winter. Should any of them look very promising, fruit may be obtained a year sooner by grafting the wood of the seedlings upon strong vines. Young vines thus grafted will generally bear the next season (see “ Grafting,” on another page). Next spring, which will be their third, remove the covering, and when the young shoots appear, allow only two to grow. After these have grown about 18 inches, pinch off the top of the weakest of the two shoots, so as to throw the growth into the strongest shoot, which is to be kept neatly tied to the stake or trellis, treating it as the summer before, and allowing all the laterals to grow. At the end of this season’s growth they should be strong enough to bear the next summer. If they have made from eight to ten feet of stocky growth, the leading cane may be cut back to ten or twelve eyes, or buds, and the smaller one to a spur of two eyes. If the vines will fruit at all, they will show it the next summer, when only the most promising ones should be kept, and the barren and worthless ones discarded. Seedlings have this peculiarity : both the berry and bunch will increase in size every year for the first three or four years ; therefore, if the quality of the fruit is only good, the size may come in time. The fruit of the Elvira (of which more hereafter), which is now about as large in bunch and berry as Catawba, was at first not more than half its present size, it having increased in dimensions every year for the last eight years.

CHAPTER III.

PROPAGATION BY CUTTINGS IN THE OPEN AIR.

The easiest and most simple mode of propagating the vine is by cuttings planted in the open ground; it can be successfully followed with the majority of the Labrusca and cor difolia varieties, and a few of those from the aestivalis, although the latter will not take root readily, and had better be propagated by layering and grafting.

The most general method is the following : In fall, when pruning the vines, choose the best ripened wood of medium size, which is better than either the very large or very small, and cut it into lengths of from 9 to 12 inches, cutting close below the lower bud, and about an inch above the upper, as in figure 1.

Figure 2 shows a cutting with part of the old wood attached ; cuttings of this kind will generally root more readily than the other. These cuttings will mostly average three to four buds each ; tie them in convenient bundles of 100 to 250 each, taking care to make their lower ends even, and keep them either in a cool, moist cellar, or bury them out-doors in well drained ground, with the upper ends downwards, covering up well with finely pulverized soil. The making of cuttings may be continued during winter, although they will root more readily if cut early, and there is also no danger of frost injuring the buds.

In spring, so soon as the ground is dry enough, the cutting bed should be prepared. Choose for this a light, rich soil, pulverized at least a foot deep ; if not light and rich enough, it can be made so by well-decomposed leaf mould. Make a cut along the whole length of the bed with the spade, deep enough to receive the whole length of the cuttings, and press these well down into it, so that the upper buds are even with the surface of the earth ; fill up with loose soil, and press it down firmly with the foot along the line, so as to pack it well around the cuttings. The cuttings may be put close in the row, say 1 to 2 inches apart, and the rows 2 to 3 feet apart, so as to allow of cultivation either by hand, plow, or cultivator. After the bed is finished, mulch with spent tan, sawdust, or leaf mould, so as to protect the young shoots from the sun; maintain a moist and even temperature during summer, and keep the soil open and porous.

Keep the soil of the cutting bed clean during the summer. The young vines will generally make a hard, firm growth 1 to 4 feet in length the first summer; they will make their roots just where they ought to be, and will be by far the best plants for general use, being preferable to vines raised either from single eyes or by layers. In the fall they should be carefully taken up, and heeled-in in well pulverized soil, deep enough to cover the crowns, first assorting, so as to make them as even in size as possible for planting. They are then ready for setting in the vineyard, and a good strong one-year-old vine is, beyond a doubt, the best for that purpose.

CHAPTER IV.

PROPAGATING THE VINE BY LAYERS.

All varieties of the grape may be readily increased by layering, but it is especially valuable for those hard-wooded varieties of the aestivalis species, which will not grow readily from cuttings, and vines thus propagated will, if handled rightly, make very good plants. To layer a vine, shorten in the canes of the last season’s growth to about one-half their length, then, early in the spring, prepare the ground by the use of the spade or fork, to thoroughly pulverize it. Make a small furrow about an inch deep, bend down the cane and fasten it firmly in the bottom of the furrow, with wooden hooks or pegs. The canes may be left thus until the young shoots have grown from 6 to 12 inches, then fill up around them with fine soil or leaf mould. Canes so layered will generally strike root at every joint. The shoots may be tied to small sticks, and when they have grown a foot, their tops should be pinched to make them more stocky. In the fall take them up carefully, commencing to dig at the end furthest from the vine, and separate the plants, by cutting between the joints, so that each shoot has a system of roots by itself. They are then either planted immediately, or heeled in, as described for vines from cuttings, to be planted in the spring.

CHAPTER V.

GRAFTING THE VINE.

The advantages of grafting are : 1. The facility by which new and rare varieties may be rapidly increased by grafting on strong, healthy old vines ; thus treated they often grow from 10 to 20 feet the first season, producing an abundance of wood to propagate from. A striking illustration of this may be seen in the vineyards of Messrs. Poeschel & Scherer, at Hermann, Mo., who commenced five years ago with five eyes of the Elvira, and now have 2,500 bearing vines of that variety, all grafted on strong Concord stocks. 2. The short time in which fruit can be obtained of new and untried varieties, as the grafts will generally bear the second season. 3. The facility by which vines of varieties, the fruit of which may be worthless, can be changed into valuable bearing vines. . 4. The advantage it offers to us in avoiding that invidious enemy, the Phylloxera, as we can graft varieties, the roots of which are subject to its ravages on those kinds which are Phylloxera proof, and can facilitate the growth of naturally weak varieties, and make them more vigorous, by grafting on strong growing stocks. 5. Varieties which will not grow readily from cuttings can generally be grafted easily ; hence this method is especially valuable to increase the varieties of aestivalis.

The vine, however, does not graft with the same ease as the apple and pear, and it is, therefore, a more uncertain operation. Moreover, to insure success, it should be grafted below the ground, which makes it a disagreeable operation, and one quite difficult to perform, hence it will hardly become a general practice. But for the purposes above mentioned, the operation is sufficiently important to make it desirable that every vineyardist should be able to perform it.

Here, the best success generally is attained when we graft in March, although it may be done as late as May. Dig away the ground around the vine, until a smooth place upon the stem is found, then cut it off smoothly, and insert one or two scions, as in common cleft grafting, taking care to cut the lower part of the scion to a very thin wedge, as shown in figure 3, leaving two eyes on the scion to insure better success. Care should be taken to insert the scion properly, as the inner bark or liber of the vine is very thin, and the success of the operation depends upon a perfect junction of the stock and scion. If the vine is strong enough to hold the scion firmly, no bandage is necessary; if not, the scion should be tied with a ligature of bast, or Bass-wood bark, applied evenly and firmly. Finish the operation by pressing the earth firmly around the cut, and fill up with fine soil to the top of the scion, or cover it up with sawdust. Examine the stock often, and remove all suckers that appear from time to time, as they will rob the graft of its nourishment. Do not be discouraged if the scion does not start at once. Scions will often remain dormant for a month, and then start and grow with astonishing vigor; such are generally more sure to grow than those which start prematurely, before a firm junction is effected between the stock and graft. This is an old method of propagating which has been very successful with me. Another, and a very good one, is the following: “Make a slanting cut in the stock, from the side, downwards towards the middle, then cut your scion to a simple wedge, and push it down on one side, so as to join the bark of the stock. This has the advantage that the stock need not be cut off, in case the scion should not unite with it, and as the fibres of both scion and stock are cut transversely, the pores join better. As soon as the scion starts, cut off the stock above it, taking care, however, not to move the scion in the operation.”

The following is copied from the Seventh Annual Report of the State Entomologist of Missouri (1875); the methods described are mostly to counteract the Phylloxera, by establishing the graft upon Phylloxera proof roots, and preventing it from making roots of its own :

“ There are several methods of grafting above ground, which I have every reason to believe may be made more successful than grape-growers have hitherto supposed; the first is, by making a false surface and grafting in the manner just described, but instead of digging away the earth and inserting the scion several inches below ground, it should be inserted above ground, and the earth thrown up around it, to be removed after the graft is thoroughly and permanently joined. There will be no danger of the graft forming its own roots, and it is certainly as easy to throw the earth around the vine as to dig it away, while the work can be more easily performed above than below the surface. No doubt this method of grafting needs greater care, especially in dry seasons, as the mound is more apt to dry out than the level ground. Yet there is evidence that this method will work well in our soil and climate. Mr. Jno. Vallet, of Xew Haven, Mo., a grape-grower of much experience, has had good success in this grafting above ground, using flax twine and pawpaw bark for bandages. He considers that the vine grows more vigorously (which I am inclined to doubt), and that there is less danger of separating the graft when the union is once formed, as it is not necessary to go below ground to destroy the suckers, by which the grafts are sometimes disturbed.”

“ The second method is by inarching. This system of grafting does not seem to have been practised much in this country ; yet, while it requires great care, and may not be as generally successful as the former methods, I hope more attention will, in future, be given to it. The operation is simple : A slice of 2 or 3 inches long is cut from one side of the vine to be grafted with, and a similar slice from the one which is to serve as stock, as near to the base as possible (of course, graft and stock must be close together). The two cut portions are then brought face to face, so as to fit neatly, and are bound together with Bass-wood kirk, or other grafting bandage, and wrapped in moss, which should be kept moist. In the course of a fortnight, partial union takes place, when the bandage should be slightly loosened, to allow of expansion. In six or eight weeks, if successful, the stock and scion are firmly united, when the bandage may be removed. The graft immediately below the union, and the stock immediately above it, should then be cut in a week or two.” This method has been successfully followed by Mr. Eugene Cambre, of Nauvoo, Ill.

Mr. Cambre, in giving his experience, writes : “I have positively abandoned cleft grafting ; it is too much trouble and too uncertain, and the graft often makes its own roots. I assure you that from a long experience in inarching, I am of the opinion that not alone the Delaware, but most of our cultivated varieties, will do better on native wild roots than on their own. I have 14 acres of vines mostly grafted in this manner on wild stocks, and I have not lost one of such grafts. It is preferable to graft at from 10 to 15 inches from the ground.”

Another mode of grafting above ground is thus given in “ The Cultivation of the Grape,” by \Y. C. Strong :

“In 'The Gardeners' Monthly,'Vol. II., p. 347, is a description of a mode practised with success by Mr. Cornelius, which we copy, not merely as it is interesting in itself, but also because it illustrates many other modifications in grafting :

'After the first four or five leaves are formed, and the sap is flowing, you choose the place on the vine where you intend to graft. At that point wrap tightly a twine several times around the vine. This will, in a measure, prevent the return sap.

‘ Below the ligature, make a sloping cut down, as shown at figure 4, a; also, a similar reversed one above the ligature, as at b, about one inch in length. In selecting a scion prefer one that has naturally a bend. Cut it so that it shall be wedge shaped at both ends, and a little longer than the distance between the cuts in the vine at a and b. Insert the scion, taking care to have the barks in direct contact, securing it with a string, c, bound round both scion and vine sufficiently tight to force the scion ends into their places. If the work is done well, no tie will be required at a and b, but the joints should be covered with grafting wax. In a short time, the bud at d will commence its growth, after which you can by degrees remove all the growing shoots not belonging to the scion, and in course of the summer you may cut off the wood above b, and in the fall remove all above a on the stock, and above c on the scion." “ Still another mode of grafting remains to be mentioned, which has, I believe, seldom, if ever, been attempted in this part of the country, but which has been employed with much satisfaction the past year by a few vine growers in France, and especially by