Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice E-Book

Patricia K. Farris

• Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
• Kategorie: Fachliteratur
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 467

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2013

Beschreibung

Provide expert advice on cosmeceuticals and integrate them into your cosmetic practice Patients look to you for expert advice on topical skin care product, and cosmeceuticals are an important innovation. They want to know which products will work best for them. But new products seem to appear almost daily. How can you provide your patients with effective advice on how and when to use cosmeceuticals? In Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice, Dr Farris has invited leading experts, including cosmetic chemists, researchers and cosmetic dermatologists, to provide these answers. Together they have analysed and synthesized the evidence and combined it with their experience to provide you with best-practice advice on the most effective way to apply cosmeceuticals in your everyday practice. This book explains: * How cosmeceutical products are developed, tested and how they work * The most up-to-date key ingredients such as: * Vitamin antioxidants * Botanicals * Peptides * Growth factors * Stem cells * How to use cosmeceuticals in practice Cosmeceuticals and Cosmetic Practice shows you how to improve the health and appearance of your patients' skin. Titles of related interest Dermatologic Surgery: Step by Step Nouri (ed.); ISBN 978-1-4443-3067-0 Ethnic Dermatology: Principles and Practice Dadize, Petit, Alexis (eds); ISBN 978-0-470-65857-4 Diagnostic Dermoscopy: The Illustrated Guide Bowling; ISBN 978-1-4051-9855-4

Leseprobe

Table of Contents

Title Page

Copyright

List of Contributors

Preface

Chapter 1: Cosmeceuticals and Clinical Practice

Definition and regulatory issues

The cosmeceutical marketplace

Cosmeceuticals in cosmetic practice

Skin care regimens based on science

Office dispensing

Efficacy and safety

Conclusion

Further reading

Part I: Development, Formulation and Evaluation of Cosmeceuticals

Chapter 2: Bench to Beauty Counter: Development of Cosmeceuticals

Introduction

Foundation for the development process

The science of formulation chemistry: product prototypes development

Toxicology, safety and stability evaluation

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 3: Evaluating Cosmeceuticals

Introduction

In vitro evaluations

In vivo evaluations

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 4: Modalities for Increasing Penetration

Introduction

Emulsions

Barrier degradation

Liposomes

Nanotechnology penetration enhancement

Penetration-enhancing devices

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 5: Nanopharmaceuticals and Nanocosmeceuticals

Introduction

Nanotechnology in dermatology

Nanovehicles

Nanoparticle modification and functionalization

Nanoparticles in dermatology

Regulation and safety

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 6: Cutaneous Barrier Function, Moisturizer Effects and Formulation

Barrier function

Stratum corneum structure and function

Desquamation

Exogenous conditions effect barrier function

Water and its effect on the epidermis

Moisturizing basics

Emulsions

Contents of a moisturizer

Choosing a moisturizer

Conclusion

Further reading

Part II: Cosmeceutical Ingredients

Chapter 7: Cosmeceutical Uses and Benefits of Alpha, Poly and Bionic Hydroxy Acids

Introduction

Hydroxyacid classification: AHA, PHA, BA

Benefits of hydroxyacids by skin condition

Formulating with AHAs

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 8: Vitamin A: Retinoids and the Treatment of Aging Skin

Introduction

Define the active ingredient

The biology of aging skin

Mechanisms of action

Clinical benefits

Indications and contraindications

Side effects

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 9: Vitamin C Cosmeceuticals

Introduction

Vitamin C: stability and derivatives

Vitamin C: an important antioxidant

Vitamin C and photoprotection

Vitamin C, collagen synthesis and wrinkles

Clinical studies: treating photoaging

Vitamin C: an important skin lightener

Vitamin C: A potent anti-inflammatory

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 10: Niacinamide: A Topical Vitamin with Wide-Ranging Skin Appearance Benefits

Introduction

Active ingredient

Mechanisms of action

Clinical benefits

Uses

Possible side effects

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 11: Innovative Botanicals

Introduction

Pine bark extract (PBE)

Coffea arabica

Pomegranate

Tea tree oil

Grape seed extract

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 12: Green Tea Extract

Introduction

Active ingredient

Mechanisms of action

Clinical benefits

Treatment of warts

Chemoprevention

Possible side effects

Contraindications

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 13: Soy and Oatmeal-Based Cosmeceuticals

Introduction

Colloidal oatmeal

Soy

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 14: Bioactive Peptides

Introduction

Definition of peptide

Role of peptides in skin

The development of peptide actives

Clinical benefits

Conclusion

The future

Further reading

Chapter 15: Growth Factors in Cosmeceuticals

Introduction

Pathophysiology of skin aging

Comparison of skin aging with wound formation and healing

Growth factors and cytokines in skin aging

Clinical benefits and indications

New developments

Safety and efficacy considerations

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 16: Resveratrol and Synthetic Sirtuin Activators

Introduction

Resveratrol: a sirtuin activator

Resveratrol: photoprotection and chemoprevention

Resveratrol as an anti-aging agent

Resveratrol as a phytoestrogen

Delivery of resveratrol

Synthetic sirtuin activators (STACs)

Sirtuins, resveratrol and STACs: the controversy

Yeast biopeptides as sirtuin activators

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 17: Skin Aging, Glycation and Glycation Inhibitors

Introduction

Sugar and advanced glycation end products

Glycation and aging skin

Glycation inhibitors

Cosmeceutical ingredients

Herbs and spices

Glycation inhibitors from marine sources

Other important glycation inhibitors

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 18: Essential Ions and Bioelectricity in Skin Care

Ion flow and bioelectricity

Essential mineral ions and skin

Further reading

Chapter 19: Stem Cell Cosmeceuticals

Strategies to energize cells to rejuvenate skin

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 20: Cosmeceutical Applications from Marine Organisms

Introduction

Marine-derived compounds from marine organisms

Cosmeceutical potential of marine organism

Conclusion

Further reading

Part III: Practical Applications for Cosmeceuticals

Chapter 21: Cosmeceuticals for the Treatment of Acne Vulgaris

Introduction

Clinical description: acne vulgaris

The role of cosmeceuticals in treating acne

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 22: Cosmeceutical Skin Lighteners

Introduction

The melanin production pathway

Skin-lightening agents

Cosmeceutical Ingredients for Skin Lightening

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 23: Cosmeceuticals for Treating Cellulite

Introduction

Clinical description of the challenge (disease pathogenesis and challenges in treatment)

The role of cosmeceuticals in treating this condition

Cosmeceutical ingredients and actives appropriate for treating this condition

Adverse effects

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 24: Cosmeceuticals for Hair Loss and Hair Care

Introduction

Polyphenols: grape seed, apple extract, barley, and raspberry

Isoflavones and soy

Ginseng, gingko and relatives

Plant-derived 5-alpha-reductase inhibitors

Essential oils

Vitamin C

Amino acids and their derivatives

Products for hair coloring

Products for hair care and hair protection

Cassia plant

Honeydew

Eucalyptus

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 25: Cosmeceuticals for Treating and Preventing Scars

Introduction

Pathogenesis

Risk factors

Cosmeceutical actives that are most commonly used in the prevention and treatment of scars

Natural therapies

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 26: Sun Protection and Self-Tanners

Introduction

Spectral differences related to UV photocarcinogenesis

Topical photoprotection

Sunscreening agents and mechanisms of action

Effectiveness of photoprotection

Sunless tanning

Future outlook

Further reading

Chapter 27: Cosmeceuticals for Rosacea and Facial Redness

Introduction

Biochemical pathways

Basic skin care needs for rosacea management

Role of cosmeceuticals in managing rosacea

Advances in cosmetic actives

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 28: Cosmeceuticals for Enhancing Cosmetic Procedures

Introduction

General considerations

Synergistically enhancing procedural outcomes

Minimizing procedural complications

Conclusion

Further reading

Chapter 29: The Future of Cosmeceuticals

Introduction

Challenges for the Future

Sustainable practices

Beyond cosmeceuticals: nutraceuticals

Conclusion

Further reading

Index

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Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Cosmeceuticals and cosmetic practice / edited by Patricia K. Farris.

p. ; cm.

Includes bibliographical references and index.

ISBN 978-1-118-38483-1 (cloth : alk. paper) – ISBN 978-1-118-38479-4 (epdf) – ISBN 978-1-118-38480-0 (epub) – ISBN 978-1-118-38481-7 (emobi) – ISBN 978-1-118-38482-4

I. Farris, Patricia K., editor of compilation.

[DNLM: 1. Dermatologic Agents–therapeutic use. 2. Cosmetics–therapeutic use. QV 60]

RA778

613'.488–dc23

2013024799

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Wiley also publishes its books in a variety of electronic formats. Some content that appears in print may not be available in electronic books.

Cover image: iStock File #22275191 © Pogonici

Cover design by Meaden Creative

List of Contributors

Diane S. Berson MD, FAAD

Associate Clinical Professor Dermatology

Weill Medical College of Cornell University

New York-Presbyterian Hospital;

Private Practice

New York, NY, USA

Donald L. Bissett PhD

Retiree from The Procter & Gamble Company

Cincinnati, OH, USA

Elizabeth Bruning BS, LLB

Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc.

Skillman, NJ, USA

Mark V. Dahl MD

Professor Emeritus

Department of Dermatology

Mayo Clinic;

Makucell, Inc.

Scottsdale, AZ, USA

Jennifer David DO, MBA

Dermatology Clinical Research Fellow

Society Hill Dermatology

Philadelphia, PA, USA

Doris Day MD, FAAD, MA

Clinical Associate Professor, Dermatology

New York University Medical Center

New York, NY, USA

Zoe Diana Draelos MD

Consulting Professor

Department of Dermatology

Duke University School of Medicine

Durham, NC, USA

Jason Emer MD

Department of Dermatology

Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai

New York, NY, USA

Sung-Hwan Eom

Marine Bioprocess Research Center

Pukyong National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

Sabrina G. Fabi MD, FAAD, FAACS

Volunteer Assistant Clinical Professor

University of San Diego, California

Goldman, Butterwick, Fitzpatrick, Groff & Fabi

Cosmetic Laser Dermatology

San Diego, CA, USA

Timothy Falla PhD

VP Research & Development

Rodan & Fields, LLC

San Francisco, CA, USA

Patricia K. Farris MD

Clinical Associate Professor

Tulane University School of Medicine

New Orleans, LA, USA;

Private practice

Old Metairie Dermatology

Metairie, Louisiana, USA

Kathy Fields MD

Adjunct Clinical Assistant Professor

Stanford University

Stanford, CA, USA

Dee Anna Glaser MD

Professor and Vice-Chairman

Department of Dermatology

Professor of Internal Medicine & Otolaryngology

Saint Louis University School of Medicine

St Louis, MO, USA

Barbara A. Green RPh, MS

Vice President of Global Clinical & Regulatory Affairs

NeoStrata Company, Inc.

Princeton, NJ, USA

Tomohiro Hakozaki PhD

The Procter & Gamble Company

Cincinnati, OH, USA

Candrice R. Heath MD

Department of Dermatology

St Luke's-Roosevelt Hospital Center

New York, NY, USA

Camile L. Hexsel MD

Dermatologist, Investigator

Brazilian Center for Studies in Dermatology

Porto Alegre, RS, Brazil;

The Methodist Hospital

Houston, TX, USA

Doris Hexsel MD

Instructor, Department of Dermatology

Pontifícia Universidade Católica do Rio Grande do Sul (PUC-RS);

Principal Investigator

Brazilian Center for Studies in Dermatology

Porto Alegre, RS, Brazil

Neil Houston

Research Coordinator

Clinical Unit for Research Trials and Outcomes in Skin (CURTIS)

Massachusetts General Hospital

Boston, MA, USA

Leah Jacob MD

Department of Dermatology

Tulane University School of Medicine

New Orleans, LA, USA

Mary B. Johnson MS

The Procter & Gamble Company

Cincinnati, OH, USA

Se-Kwon Kim PhD

Marine Bioprocess Research Center

Pukyong National University;

Marine Biochemistry Laboratory

Department of Chemistry

Pukyong National University

Busan, Republic of Korea

Alexa Boer Kimball MD, MPH

Senior Vice President, Practice Improvement, Mass General Physicians Organization;

Vice Chair, Department of Dermatology

Massachusetts General Hospital;

Director, Clinical Unit for Research Trials and Outcomes in Skin (CURTIS)

Massachusetts General Hospital;

Associate Professor

Harvard Medical School

Boston, MA, USA

Alexandra Kowcz

VP, US R&D

Beiersdorf Inc.

Wilton, CT, USA

Mary Lupo MD

Clinical Professor of Dermatology

Tulane University School of Medicine;

Private Practice

Lupo Center for Aesthetic and General Dermatology

New Orleans, LA, USA

Ellen Marmur MD

Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai

New York, NY, USA

Adam R. Mattox DO

Department of Dermatology

Saint Louis University School of Medicine

St Louis, MO, USA

Chris Mazur BS

Senior Researcher

McDaniel Institute of Anti-Aging Research/Laser & Cosmetic Center

Virginia Beach, VA, USA

David H. McDaniel MD, FAAD

Director

McDaniel Institute of Anti-Aging Research/Laser & Cosmetic Center

Virginia Beach, VA;

Assistant Professor, Clinical Dermatology

Eastern Virginia Medical School;

Adjunct Assistant Professor, Department of Biological Sciences

Old Dominion University

Norfolk, VA;

Co-Director, Hampton University Skin of Color Research Institute

Hampton University

Hampton, VA, USA

Suzanne Micciantuono DO

Dermatology Resident

Wellington Regional Medical Center

Boca Raton, FL, USA

Adnan Nasir MD, PhD

Department of Dermatology

University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill

Chapel Hill, NC, USA

Katherine Nolan BA

Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai

New York, NY, USA

John E. Oblong PhD

The Procter & Gamble Company

Cincinnati, OH, USA

Marianne N. O'Donoghue MD

Associate Professor of Dermatology

Rush University Medical Center

Chicago, IL, USA

Rosemarie Osborne PhD

The Procter & Gamble Company

Cincinnati, OH, USA

Wolfgang Pape PhD

Beiersdorf AG

Hamburg, Germany

Marta I. Rendon MD

Medical Director

The Rendon Center for Dermatology and Aesthetic Medicine;

Associated Clinical Professor

University of Miami

Boca Raton, FL, USA

Darrell S. Rigel MD

Clinical Professor

Department of Dermatology

New York University School of Medicine

New York, NY, USA

Katie Rodan MD

Adjunct Clinical Assistant Professor

Stanford University

Stanford, CA, USA

Nicole E. Rogers MD, FAAD

Assistant Clinical Professor

Tulane University School of Medicine

New Orleans, LA;

Private Practice

Metaire, LA, USA

Dana L. Sachs MD

Associate Professor

Department of Dermatology

University of Michigan Medical Center

Ann Arbor, MI, USA

Guenther Schneider PhD

Principal Scientist

Beiersdorf AG

Hamburg, Germany

Christina Steel PhD

Senior Researcher

McDaniel Institute of Anti-Aging Research/Laser & Cosmetic Center

Virginia Beach;

Department of Biological Sciences

Old Dominion University

Norfolk, VA, USA

Ying Sun PhD

Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc.

Skillman, NJ, USA

Hema Sundaram MD, FAAD

Medical Director

Sundaram Dermatology Cosmetic & Laser Surgery

Rockville, MD, and Fairfax, VA, USA

Susan Taylor MD

Society Hill Dermatology, Philadelphia;

Associate Clinical Professor of Dermatology

Associate Faculty of the School of Medicine

University of Pennsylvania

Philadelphia, PA, USA

Samantha Tucker-Samaras PhD

Johnson & Johnson Consumer Companies, Inc.

Skillman, NJ, USA

Yvette Vazquez MS, PA-C

Physician Assistant

Wellington Regional Medical Center

Boca Raton, FL, USA

John J. Voorhees MD, FRCP

Duncan and Ella Poth Distinguished Professor and Chair

Department of Dermatology

University of Michigan Medical Center

Ann Arbor, MI, USA

Heidi A. Waldorf MD

Director, Laser & Cosmetic Dermatology

Mount Sinai Medical Center;

Associate Clinical Director

Icahn School of Medicine at Mount Sinai

New York, NY;

Waldorf Dermatology & Laser Associates, PC

Nanuet, NY, USA

Teresa M. Weber PhD

Director, Clinical & Scientific Affairs

Beiersdorf Inc.

Wilton, CT, USA

Susan H. Weinkle MD

Affiliate Clinical Professor of Dermatology

University of South Florida

Tampa, FL;

Private Practice

Bradenton, FL, USA

Joshua A. Zeichner MD

Assistant Professor

Mount Sinai Medical Center

New York, NY, USA

Preface

The term cosmeceutical, in the US, is now a household word. It is used in magazine articles, internet postings and is even defined in the dictionary. Cosmeceuticals are a new breed of skin care products that are a hybrid between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. The term cosmeceutical is not recognized by the Food and Drug Administration so there are no specific criteria set up for products to be included in this category. Today, we use the term cosmeceutical to refer to everything from sunscreens to prescription retinoids and almost everything in between. In fact, even simple moisturizers can technically be called cosmeceuticals as they have beneficial effects on skin physiology. In most cases, however, we reserve the use of the term cosmeceutical to refer to enhanced moisturizers containing active ingredients that provide added benefits to the skin.

The advent of cosmeceuticals represents one of the most important innovations in topical skin care. As a blend between cosmetics and pharmaceuticals, these products provide therapeutic benefits above and beyond simple cosmetics and are highly sought after by consumers. They are readily available, reasonably priced and heavily marketed, making them one of the fastest growing segments of the personal care market. Consumers turn to cosmeceuticals to treat skin aging and a myriad of skin conditions such acne, melasma and rosacea. They view these products as alternatives to medications and often try cosmeceutical products before seeking professional help. Physicians also value cosmeceuticals for their therapeutic effects. We use them in conjunction with medications to treat skin conditions and to enhance the benefits of in-office procedures.

In view of this demand, it is no surprise that cosmetic and pharmaceutical companies are focused on growing the cosmeceutical marketplace. Most major cosmetic companies have heavily invested in developing cosmeceuticals and many pharmaceutical companies are now joining in. Through basic science research these companies are working to identify potential targets for improving skin health and appearance and develop new active ingredients that can be used as interventions. They create innovative delivery systems allowing for more effective and targeted delivery of actives to the skin. Their efforts are to be commended as they have contributed significantly to the development of more effective skin care products and to our basic understanding of skin aging, moisturization and the pathogenesis of diseases.

Patients increasingly are looking to their physicians for advice on product selection. They are overwhelmed by the marketing hype that often creates unrealistic expectations and some degree of consumer confusion. They are looking for individualized skin care regimens and want to know what works and what doesn't. The aesthetic physician faces a formidable challenge to be knowledgeable about cosmeceuticals. There are few resources on the subject and the scientific studies conducted by the companies who develop these products are not always readily available. In addition, it seems as if new products and ingredients are marketed almost daily, making it impossible for us to keep up with this rapidly developing market.

This provides the rationale for this textbook. It provides you with the expertise of clinicians, researchers and industry-based cosmetic chemists from around the globe. The book is divided into three parts. Part I provides you with insight into how cosmeceuticals are developed, tested and how these science-driven skin care products are brought to market. Innovations in delivery systems and penetration enhancer will also be discussed.

Part II covers many of the key cosmeceutical ingredients including vitamin antioxidants, botanicals, growth factors, peptides and marine-based ingredients, just to name a few. Some of the newest anti-aging strategies including stem cell modulating compounds, glycation inhibitors, and ion-based anti-aging skin care are also discussed.

In Part III, clinicians who are considered leaders in the field will provide their unique and individual perspective on how cosmeceuticals can be used in clinical practice. Studies supporting the use of cosmeceuticals to treat common conditions such as acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, hair loss and striae are reviewed. The use of cosmeceuticals to enhance cosmetic procedures performed in the office setting such as chemical peels and laser treatments complete Part III.

Through our collective efforts, we hope to be able to provide you with a resource that will make it easier to advise your patients on product selection and give you the information you need to incorporate cosmeceuticals into your clinical practice.

I owe my deepest gratitude to my contributors who are among the leading experts in the field of topical skin care and without whom this textbook would never have been possible. I commend them for their deep commitment to professionalism and for their never-ending pursuit to put science behind cosmeceuticals. Finally, I would like to acknowledge Rachel Green and Jeffery B. Henry for all of their efforts and help in preparing this book.

Patricia K. Farris

Chapter 1

Cosmeceuticals and Clinical Practice

Patricia K. Farris

Tulane University School of Medicine, New Orleans, LA, USA

Definition and regulatory issues

The term cosmeceutical was coined by Albert Kligman, M.D., in 1993, referring to skin care products that are a blend of cosmetics and pharmaceuticals. This term is engrained in medical literature, the lay press, and is commonly used by consumers. There is an implied medical nature as a result of “ceutical” and an expectation of medicinal-like properties. Today cosmeceutical is generally used to refer to skin care products that contain active ingredients that are beneficial to improving skin's appearance and promoting healthy skin.