Cover it up ! E-Book

Mireille Tembouret

• Herausgeber: ESMOD
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 108

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2021

Beschreibung

History, function, codes and characteristics of blousons, raincoats, habits, coats and jackets.

The first volume of our ”Grammar of Western clothing” series. Men – and women – have always wrestled with the elements to protect themselves from cold or hot weather and shield against rain or snow. Though they may have wished to flatter their physique for aesthetic purposes, they were obliged to invent and adapt clothes for their everyday circumstances. The shapes, functions and details which appeared over the centuries defined a rich wardrobe, often forgotten in modern times. This ”grammar of Western clothing” gives an overview of the codes and characteristics of typical garments from yesterday and today.

In this first volume, we explore the blousons, raincoats, habits, coats and jackets which... Cover us up!

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Originally a passionate collector of old fabrics and clothing, Mireille Tembouret today oversees the enormous “Vestiaire” (wardrobe), a mix of civilian and religious garments from many eras. The company - with its surprising resources - provides clothing to film, television and theater professionals as well as special-event organizers or private individuals. After teaching fashion design at Esmod Paris and a design career in the Paris fashion industry. She now dedicates her energies to developing her company, based in Paris.

Leseprobe

Cover it up !

Mireille Tembouret

2

Our purpose

The option of wearing what we like, whenever we want, is relatively recent.

The Western clothing codes which once identifed social status, brotherhoods and professions have broken down in today’s world. We have long abandoned the strict rules which required a peasant to dress like a peasant or a bourgeois as a bourgeois. This incredible freedom has given us the opportunity to put together our own wardrobes. Though fashion dictates still exist and require specific garments for certain uses or occasions, we now whimsically mix different pieces of Western dress with traditional costumes from around the world. Luxury, designer or ready-to-wear boutiques, on-line stores and consignment shops with a variety of used clothing today expand the field to everyone. We can browse at leisure and indulge ourselves to express our personality.

Because of this, our wardrobe has opened up to the outside world and we often forget the origin and function of each garment. The beauty of the contemporary wardrobe is found in the history of clothing which reveals so many wonderful details.

This book is based on that premise : by constructing this “Grammar of Western clothing” as a set of rules and codes which show how clothes were worn, we reveal their practical details and history.

The fabulous clothing selection of “Le Vestiaire”, collected over the years by the author, was the impetus to write this book which has been conceived as a glossary.

The choice of garments shown here is not complete. Alongside historical, timeless pieces, we include clothes that help explain fashion’s evolution in recent decades.

We decided to photograph these older pieces worn with modern clothes as you might see them if you tried them on in a store.

This first book, “Cover it up !”, is broken down into five major themes that explore the mysteries of our wardrobe: blousons, habits, raincoats, coats and jackets …

How to read this book

Garment: front, profile and back

Raincoats

53

52

Raincoat

Straight line. Below-knee length. Materials: waterproof cotton twill with non-wrinkle treatment. Colors: mastic, navy blue or dark gray.

The term “Gabardine” in French refers to a waterproof cotton fabric in a twill weave. This garment is ideal worn as an overcoat with different shaped sleeves. The model in the photograph was common in the 1960’s masculine wardrobe.

Piped inside pocket straddles the facing and lining, it can hold a newspaper.

Chest pocket holds a wallet.

High, single slit with overlap at center back makes walking easier and sitting down comfortable by simply spreading the two back panels.

Suit collar with banana and open notch.

American sleeve with center seam absorbs the sleeve cap ease + adjustable tab at bottom of sleeve.

A double-topstitching on sleeve cap flap flattens the construction seams and slims the line.

Outside diagonal welt pockets.

1975

Simple front overlap closed by buttons and buttonholes under an invisible placket.

Name of garment

Chapters

A brief history

Lines, shapes, materials and colors

Details

Type of garment (masculine or feminine)

Inside of garment

Era of garment

Table of

contents

Blousons 6

Anorak.............................................................8

Aviator jacket................................................10

Eisenhower jacket.........................................12

Jean jacket....................................................14

Motorcycle jacket.........................................16

Shearling bomber jacket.............................18

Bomber jacket...............................................20

Down jacket..................................................22

Flight jacket..................................................24

Parka..............................................................26

Perfecto.........................................................28

Baseball or Varsity jacket............................30

Midshipman’s top.........................................32

Formal jackets 34

18thcenturyhabit.....................................36

19thcenturyhabit.....................................38

20thcenturyhabit.....................................40

Cutaway.........................................................42

Tailcoat..........................................................44

Raincoats 46

Australian sheep herder’s coat...................48

Slicker............................................................50

Raincoat........................................................52

Hunting raincoat..........................................54

K Way.............................................................56

Macintosh.....................................................58

Summer raincoat..........................................60

Trench coat....................................................62

Coats 64

Reefer coat....................................................66

Belted motorcycle jacket.............................68

"Domino" cape.............................................70

Cloak..............................................................72

Military overcoat..........................................74

Carrick...........................................................76

Covert coat....................................................78

Duffel coat....................................................80

Kabig..............................................................82

Loden.............................................................84

Macfarlane....................................................86

Frock coat......................................................88

Sack coat.......................................................90

Overcoat........................................................92

Redingote......................................................94

Redingote......................................................96

Car coat.........................................................98

Ulster...........................................................100

Visiting coat................................................102

Jackets 104

Blazer...........................................................106

Safari jacket................................................108

Tuxedo ........................................................110

Spencer .......................................................112

Tyrolian jacket............................................114

Tunic............................................................116

1914-18 Military frock coat......................118

Army jacket.................................................120

Jackets.........................................................122

1-button jacket ..........................................124

Martingale..................................................126

Riding jacket...............................................128

Smoking jacket...........................................130

Norfolk jacket.............................................132

Suit jacket...................................................134

Straight line

Bubble line

6

Blousons

Aviator jacket

Baseball or

Varsity jacket

Flight jacket

Eisenhower jacket

Down jacket

Anorak

Aviator jacket

Eisenhower jacket

Jean jacket

Motorcycle jacket

Shearling

bomber jacket

Bomber jacket

Down jacket

Flight jacket

Parka

Perfecto

Baseball or

Varsity jacket

Midshipman’s top

Boxy line

The blouson is an outerwear garment. It is held in at the waist or hem by a waistband or drawstring. Most often short, it is considered to be sportswear or casual.

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

Straight line

7

Anorak

Parka

Midshipman’s top

Perfecto

Jean jacket

Shearling bomber jacket

Bomber jacket

Certain blousons, made in specific fabrics, typify a rocker or biker culture, such as the denim or leather blouson. Others, originally used by the military, were introduced in the everyday wardrobe. Their cut often depended on their materials, but also on the evolution of fashion.

Anorak

8

Originally an Inuit garment, (anoré means “wind” in the Inuit language), this hooded, shearling blouson pulled over the head. In the 1950’s, the craze for winter sports evolved it into a short, quilted parka (of the same origins). As a garment for and from the Far North, today its qualities still make it ideal to combat the cold.

See theKEYWORDS

Anorakkeywords

• Inuit

• Parka

• Winter sports

• Thick cushioning

• Fitted hood

• Kimono sleeves

• Elbow reinforcements

• Welt pockets

• Drawstrings

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

CHAPTER HEAD

Blousons

9

Straight line. Comfortable shape. Below-hip length. Material: originally in shearling and then felted wool, today it is made in innovative fabrics.

Thick, quilted lining.

Adjustable drawstring waist.

The drawstring waist can be adjusted by a cord with stopper.

The big, fitted hood has a long fur cuff that can be turned up to protect the entire head and face without moving around.

To note: when unfolded, the fur cuff extends further than the nose to screen against the cold yet let the wearer breathe.

The hood back adapts to different head shapes thanks to an adjustable tab.

Big, snapped, welt pockets.

The wide horizontal pockets with snapped flaps open large enough for hands with thick gloves.

The sleeve bottoms are elasticized or, as shown here, have a ribbed knit edge.

The kimono sleeves have a raglan cut. Here there is also an elbow reinforcement.

See theKEYWORDS

10

Aviator jacket

This quilted blouson was worn by flight crews in the French Air Force. After aviator blousons in shearling, this type of quilted cotton blouson appeared during World War II. It w as replaced by nylon blousons beginning in 1949.

1942

Aviator jacketkeywords

• Flight crew in the French Air Force

• Shirt collar with removable fur collar

• Chin strap

• American sleeves

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

CHAPTER HEAD

Blousons

11

A short bubble shape held in at the waist in back. Material: quilted cotton twill with satin lining. Since it is a military garment, it is made in khaki.

Snapped diagonal pockets.

American sleeves with a gusset added for ease and three metal eyelets under sleeves for ventilation.

Zipped pockets on left sleeve.

Sleeve bottom is adjusted by simply folding the fabric and snapping it with metal snaps.

Shirt collar with integrated stand and chin strap to help keep collar closed when turned up. This tab is attached horizontally and buttoned down when not in use.

Wide, removable fur collar is attached by buttons under a tab on collar stand.

Buttoned shoulder tabs can be used to hold the straps of a parachute.

The blouson is closed by a metal zipper shifted towards the right of the garment.

Protective tab at center front under zipper.

Two vertical snapped pockets in lining, at chest level, close to base of neck.

Waist is tightened in back by an elastic sandwiched between the lining and outside fabric.

Bottom of blouson has a ribbed edge for comfort and easy adjusment.

See theKEYWORDS

12

Eisenhower jacket

Created in 1942 for the American army and identified with its most famous wearer, General Dwight “Ike” Eisenhower, this blouson has inspired many variations in the contemporary men’s wardrobe. It is characterized by its simplicity, it “goes everywhere” easily. It was very popular in the 1950’s-60’s for its city sportswear look.

1965

Eisenhower jacketkeywords

• 1944 Ike Eisenhower

• Sportswear beginning

• Boxy shape

• Shirt collar

• American sleeves

• Buttoned cuffs

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

CHAPTER HEAD

Blousons

13

A short, straight line with a dropped waist. Boxy shape, slightly dropped shoulders. Materials: originally made in lightweight wool broadcloth or waterproof cotton canvas.

Zipped blouson in gabardine.

Center front zipper without inside placket.

Shirt collar with stand included.

Horizontal and diagonal welt pockets.

Back yoke with horizontal pleat.

Bottom volume held in by a ribbed knit edge that runs around the bottom of blouson except at center front, this continues to the bottom of the ribbed edge.

American sleeve with raglan cut.

Buttoned cuff on a non-tear slit.

Always lined in as light a fabric as possible.

Here we show two examples:

A two-fabric buttoned blouson with front suede insets on a milano knit.

Buttoned inset placket.

Shirt collar with collar stand.

Vertical, muff pockets continue the line of the outside edges of front suede pieces.

Yoke and back seams.

The shape is created by a small side panel ending in the flat waistband.

Shirt sleeve with middle-seamed sleeve and buttoned cuff.

Always lined in as light a fabric as possible.

variation

See theKEYWORDS

14

Jean jacket

Originally “Made in USA”. Manufactured in the well-known Denim first used for workwear like jeans and overalls. When introduced, (denim’s particularity in manufacturing was the flat seams that could) then be folded. The reinforced seams are flattened by topstitching which eliminates ironing in production. The front and back side seams are slanted to accentuate the garment’s slim shape.

Jean jacketkeywords

• Made in USA

• Workwear

• Denim

• Blue color

• Fitted 2D garment

• Foldable

• Straight line with vertical seams

• Shirtwaist collar

• Shirt sleeves

• Metal rivet buttons

• Double topstitchings

• Unlined

TABLE OF CONTENTS

GLOSSARY

CHAPTER HEAD

Blousons

15

Denim garments are unlined. The topstitching and “flat-felled” seams guarantee that the garment is clean-finished inside. The pocket backs, in cotton percale or «pocketing», are treated for wear-and-tear and merrowed. The edge of the front overlap is folded as are the chest pocket seams, before they are stitched down in a pintuck.

The flat waistband has adjustable tabs at the sides.

Vertical pockets are inset in the front parallel to the vertical seams. The chest pockets, with their flaps caught in the yoke seams, are stitched behind the vertical seams. The width of the pocket opening depends on the distance between the seams.

The shirtwaist collar is cut on a folded edge, meaning on the straight grain. It can be worn open or closed. The front facing is part of