Fashion Embroidery E-Book

Jessica Pile

• Herausgeber: Batsford
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 106

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2018

Beschreibung

This practical step-by-step guide to haute couture embroidery covers everything from machine and hand stitching, to tambour beading, goldwork and monogramming. Whether you are interested in adding monogrammed initials to your favourite bathrobe, stitching a flower on your favourite jacket, adding sparkling beads to a new dress or creating a goldwork embellishment, Fashion Embroidery teaches you how to add a unique touch to your clothes. In this beautifully illustrated book, Jessica Pile, the Production Director at Hand & Lock embroidery, explores the intricate techniques used in fashion embroidery. With hand-drawn designs, catwalk photographs and step-by-step guides, this book is perfect for beginners looking to personalise their own clothes, as well as more experienced embroiderers who want to apply new techniques to different fabrics. Beginning with an inspirational overview of the fashion industry, Jessica looks at examples of embroideries and embellishments by a variety of couturiers, including Christian Dior, Louis Vuitton, Hardy Amies and Burberry. The book then demonstrates the basics of three main techniques – goldwork, tambour beading and embroidery stitches including silk shading, satin and stem stitch. In do-it-yourself projects, Jessica first helpfully explains the basics of materials; she teaches you how to pick the right fabric, what tools to use, where to source materials, what types of wire or beads to use and terminology. Taking influences from existing couture designs, she then shows you how to execute these learned techniques onto your own clothes. This book is perfect for fashion students, textile artists, and those who want a more unique look to their clothes.

Leseprobe

FASHION EMBROIDERY

FASHION EMBROIDERY

EMBROIDERY TECHNIQUES AND INSPIRATION FOR HAUTE-COUTURE CLOTHING

JESSICA JANE PILE

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

EMBROIDERY IN FASHION

Machine versus hand embroidery

A brief history of fashion embroidery

The finer details

DO IT YOURSELF

Choosing the embroidery for you

Getting started

Preparing your design

Transferring your design

Setting up your frame

Framing up a garment

BASIC EMBROIDERY STITCHES

Which stitch?

Materials and equipment

Starting to stitch

Running stitch

Split stitch

Cross stitch

Stem stitch

Satin stitch

French knots

Leaf stitch

SILK SHADING

Painting with threads

Materials

Order of working

Starting to stitch

Split stitch

Long and short stitch

GOLDWORK

Precious metals

Materials and equipment

Order of work

Starting to stitch

Padding

Passing

Cutwork

Pearl purl

Chips

Essing (s-ing)

Plate

TAMBOUR BEADING

Beads and sequins

Materials and equipment

Preparation

Chain stitch

Troubleshooting

Attaching beads

Attaching sequins

Turning corners

USING OTHER MATERIALS

Unusual materials

3D embroidery

3D flowers

3D beading

MOVING ON

INDEX

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

PICTURE CREDITS

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

Oscar de la Renta (Autumn/Winter, 2013). Hand-beaded dress with ribbon detailing.

INTRODUCTION

It is hard for me to think about fashion and not consider embroidery as one of its defining features. During every fashion week I search the catwalk shows for the slightest glimmer of embroidery. Obviously, there are the embroidery regulars like Elie Saab and Valentino, whose shows you only need to watch for a few seconds before the embroidery becomes immediately noticeable, but there are others where you have to look more closely. As with any modern style, it might appear that embroidery comes in and out of fashion, like the little black dress, but, if you look closely, you will realize that in fact embroidery is there all the time. It is often used to create patterns and yet give the impression that it is not really embroidery at all. This is what I love about it – it is versatile and sometimes hard to see, but it is there, coming down the runway more often that Kate Moss.

In this book, I will look at embroidery in all aspects of fashion, be it haute couture, luxury or high-street fashion. You will learn about the history of fashion and embroidery, and I will teach you the basics of the hand-embroidery techniques used by the high-end fashion houses, as well as how to create your own embroidery designs.

Jenny Packham (Autumn/Winter, 2016). Tambour-beaded floral detail in sequins.

Elie Saab Haute Couture (Autumn/Winter, 2016). Three-dimensional embroidered birds and flowers with feathers and sequins.

EMBROIDERY IN FASHION

MACHINE VERSUS HAND EMBROIDERY

We have recently seen a great resurgence of embroidery in fashion. It has not only graced almost every garment sent down the haute-couture and ready-to-wear runways during recent shows, but it has also been added to a huge number of items in high-street stores. From floral patterns on tulle dresses and fashion patches covering any wearable piece to personalizing your garment with your own name, embroidery has really shown its diversity. Personalization has become hugely popular following the recession of 2008. Whether this involves personalizing with patching or monogramming, this idea has been used by almost every brand: Burberry offer a personalization service that allows you to add embroidered initials to your backpack or poncho, while Gucci gives customers the option to choose different embroidery patches to attach to their chosen jacket. Embroidery has filtered into every aspect of fashion and it has been wonderful to see.

I like to separate the fashion industry into three categories: haute couture, ready-to-wear and high street. Manufacturers in each of these markets use embroidery in different ways. The haute-couture houses will always use hand embroidery; ready-to-wear will use a mixture of hand embroidery, hand-guided machine embroidery and machine embroidery; high-street fashion will mainly use machine embroidery. Factors such as sustainability, cost and the target market will determine the type of embroidery used and within which market.

These factors are common to any industry and define the standards of quality that we expect when investing money in a purchase. Hand embroidery is expensive: it takes time and dedication to achieve the highest level of skill; the embroiderers have often trained for 4–5 years before they are able to work on a sellable garment. The techniques are unique and have been used for centuries, and the equipment used in embroidery ateliers around the world also remains unchanged. The techniques of hand embroidery can rarely be entirely replicated by machine, which is why hand embroidery is still widely used in high-end fashion.

The invention of machine embroidery has, however, allowed the high-street brands to mimic hand embroidery. Although machine embroidery cannot achieve the artistry of hand embroidery, machines have allowed embroidery to fit into the ever-growing fast fashion industry. Many people are unable to tell the difference between hand embroidery and machine embroidery, and people often ask me how it is possible to distinguish between the two. It is a fair question. Most people have had very little exposure to hand embroidery and it is easy to assume that technology has created a faster, more cost-effective way of creating embroidery, which can support the fickle consumers of today’s disposable fashion. Fortunately, the haute-couture and luxury industries still support the craft of hand embroidery. Having said that, embroidery is still embroidery, whether it is done by machine or by hand, and although machines cannot always replicate hand embroidery, each shines in different ways. It is an alternative rather than a replacement. Although this book will only teach you how do hand embroidery in fashion, I hope by reading and learning to stitch you will come to identify the difference between the two and appreciate embroidery of all types.

Dolce & Gabbana (Spring/Summer, 2016) uses a mixture of hand beading and hand-guided embroidery to personalize their collection.

A BRIEF HISTORY OF FASHION EMBROIDERY

The earliest form of hand embroidery is still a matter of debate. One theory is that it may have come from the Middle East and dates back to the 3rd century AD. However, another theory states it can be dated back to as early as 1300BC and appears on clothing found in Tutankhamun’s coffin. The first of these is officially documented as the earliest form of embroidery, while the latter is still being researched. Both of these predate the invention of ‘fashion design’ as we know it by over 1,500 years. The embroidery at either date uses beading and thread stitching on linen bases, similar to the embroidery techniques used today. Painted vases and sculptures have been useful to identify embroidery as they depict figures from various ancient civilizations wearing embroidered garments.

Military badges embroidered by Hand & Lock.

One of the oldest pieces of embroidery still in existence is the Bayeux Tapestry that dates from the 1070s. Although called a ‘tapestry’ it is actually a piece of embroidery. It took approximately ten years to complete, and is over 70m (230ft) long. Made in England the embroidery depicts events leading up to the Battle of Hastings. It is named the ‘Bayeux’ Tapestry as the earliest record of the embroidery is in the cathedral at Bayeux, where it is still housed today.

Embroidery flourished in England during the 13th–15th centuries with the birth of a new style called Opus Anglicanum that was often used in ecclesiastical hangings. The style comprised two types of stitches, split stitch and underside couching, and used metal and cotton threads to create incredibly detailed embroidery. It was such a time-consuming technique that the embroidery of this era became extremely sought after, and pieces were presented as diplomatic gifts. Examples of Opus Anglicanum that have survived to the present day are prized processions.

By the 17th century embroidery had gained in popularity and the use of beads and pearls could be seen in lavishly embroidered garments and furnishings. Embroidery was used as a sign of social status and women would create samplers as a sign of their position and wealth. In a similar way during this era military embroidery showed a soldier’s rank as it was used on military badges and accoutrements. It is still used in this way today.

In the 19th century the term haute couture was coined by Charles Frederick Worth. Translated from French it means ‘high sewing’, and represents the beginning of fashion as we know it today. Worth was the founder of the House of Worth, which was established in 1858. Worth modernized 19th-century dresses by taking the traditional style and creating more wearable, everyday outfits. He is considered to have revolutionized the fashion industry, making his garments the most sought-after pieces of their time. Worth was able to give his clients the opportunity to choose each component of their outfit, from the finest fabric, to the most delicate embroidery, and even the style of the buttons. It was a truly unique experience that had not existed before.

Macson uses military-inspired badges in its latest collection.

The Bayeux Tapestry is one of the earliest pieces of embroidery still in existence. One theory is that it was made in the 1070s by Queen Matilda, the wife of William I, as shown here.

Chanel (Spring/Summer, 2015), one of the few fashion houses still operating in the haute-couture business.

Today in France the term ‘haute couture’ is protected by law and can only be used by companies who meet specific, well-defined standards. These standards are set out by the Fedération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode – the governing body of the French fashion industry, which in turn grew out of a grouping founded by Charles Frederick Worth. The strict requirements state that the house must have a full-time workshop that employs no fewer than 20 staff members; they must be based in Paris and must offer a ‘made-to-measure’ service with personal fittings; and finally they must present two collections a year that include daytime, formal and evening wear that are presented in January and July.

Haute couture is an expensive business. The use of high-quality fabric and delicate embroidery can mean that some pieces will take up to 700 hours to complete and cost in excess of £8,000. Household names that still operate in the business are Chanel, Elie Saab, Christian Dior, Valentino and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

The modern embroidery and fashion industry is global. The development of sewing and embroidery machines has enabled the mass production of garments, often in third-world countries to save costs. Because of consumer demand for fast fashion, the high street was born, with retailers like Biba, Topshop and Zara allowing the customer to keep up with fashion trends at affordable prices.

Today the love affair with embroidery and fashion is still strong, whether it is through painstakingly detailed hand embroidery, or a small pieces of machine embroidery on a denim jacket. Embroidery may have been around for over 1,500 years before fashion design as we know it was invented, but it is hard not to associate the two.

The English fashion designer Charles Frederick Worth revolutionized the fashion industry and coined the term ‘haute couture’.

THE FINER DETAILS

Knowing how to identify the different types of embroidery is something that comes with experience. It is often difficult to look at a piece of embroidery on a garment and know how it is embroidered. I generally find the best place to start is by looking at the back of the embroidery; this will usually tell you whether it has been embroidered by hand or machine. Once you have determined this you will then be able to look at the stitch of the embroidery to understand what techniques have been used.

There are so many different techniques in embroidery that it is difficult to know and identify them all, but if you have a good enough knowledge about embroidery and are able to break down the stitches, you will be able to work out how a particular piece has been done. While writing this book I have discovered techniques I had not previously been aware of, seen how traditional techniques have been altered or developed and also how unusual materials have been used in embroidery.

MACHINE EMBROIDERY

Machine embroidery is always quite easy to recognize if are able to look at the back of the embroidery. Machine embroidery is always produced with a backing material to support the work while in the frame. If you are able to see a material that looks similar to paper around the edge of the stitching you will be looking at a piece of machine embroidery.