FUCHSIAS E-Book

George Bartlett

• Herausgeber: Crowood
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2011

Beschreibung

Fuchsias - The New Cultivars follows George Bartlett's first volume, Fuchsias - A Colour Guide, profiling another 1500 newly created cultivars with over 500 colour photographs. Starting with practical advice from an expert on how to care for this beautiful plant , it then updates the fuchsia enthusiast and specialist with entries on the very latest cultivars. This popular format describes each flower, colour, foliage and habit, giving: notes on hardiness, height and spread suggestions on cultivation and display the name of the raiser and the parent plants the date of introduction and the country of registration

Leseprobe

Fuchsias

THE NEW CULTIVARS

George Bartlett

The Crowood Press

First published in 2000 by The Crowood Press Ltd, Ramsbury, Marlborough, Wiltshire, SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book edition first published in 2011

© The Crowood Press 2000

All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of this text may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly

ISBN 978 1 84797 368 9

Line illustrations by Cy Baker.

Acknowledgements

The author would like to thank most sincerely those specialist fuchsia nurseries kind enough to send him copies of their catalogues from which much of the information and descriptions were obtained. The names and addresses of these nurseries are printed at the back of this book.

The author is also extremely grateful to the following nurseries who kindly provided young plants at the beginning of the year so that they could be grown and photographed:

Brynawel Fuchsia and Garden Centre

Breach Lane Nurseries

Clay Lane Fuchsias

John Smith and Son

Kathleen Muncaster Fuchsias

Littlebrook Fuchsias

Mike Oxtoby Fuchsias

Oldbury Fuchsias

Percival’s Fuchsias

Rooster Fuchsias

Silverdale Fuchsias

Without the assistance of these dedicated fuchsia growers it would have been impossible to produce this second guide.

Contents

Preface

Introduction

History

Composts

Watering

Fuchsias in the Home

The Hardy Border

Growing Fuchsias in Baskets and Half Baskets

Propagation and Propagators

Fuchsias as Bonsai Subjects

Fuchsias for Containers

Overwintering your Fuchsias

Buying Fuchsias by Post

Pests and Diseases

Understanding the Descriptions

A-Z of Species and Cultivars

A

B

C

D

E

F

G

H

I

J

K

L

M

N

O

P

Q

R

S

T

U

V

W

X

Y

Z

Nursery Addresses – 2000

Glossary

Preface

As a result of the great success of the first book Fuchsias – A Colour Guide, it was decided to produce a second volume incorporating many of the newer types of fuchsias. It is in a way unfortunate that books such as this are virtually ‘out of date’ before they are even printed as more and more new cultivars are introduced each year. However, we can but try our best to keep growers of fuchsias informed about many of the newer cultivars introduced during the last few years.

As readers will appreciate, many of the descriptions contained within this volume are those which have been used by the nurseries in their catalogues. As such it is not possible to obtain all the facts and information that we desire. Every effort has been made to get full information but there are a number of plants where it has not been possible to ascertain the name of the raiser or the date upon which it was first introduced. If such omissions cause any offence, I apologize most sincerely and would be very grateful if the information could be passed to me so that it can be included in subsequent printings.

One of the questions most frequently asked concerns the availability of the various plants. Following the descriptions, I have included codes for the nurseries from whose catalogues the information was obtained (see Nursery Addresses – 2000). It is quite possible that such nurseries will, after a few years, no longer be stocking the particular plant you require, but I have no doubt that they would supply you with information about where to obtain such a plant, if requested, or suggest a suitable similar cultivar.

The Author is extremely grateful to all the nurseries who sent their catalogues and particularly to those who supplied plants so that photographs could be taken. Without such assistance the production of a book such as this would have been impossible.

The response to the first book was so complimentary that I am fearful lest the standard of this second book does not match the first. I do not profess to be a photographer – I rely upon the camera to do the thinking and the focusing for me and concentrate purely on the ‘making’ of the picture. I am delighted, however, to have had the opportunity once again of sharing my love of the fuchsia with you. I still maintain that the growing of fuchsias is a hobby that should be enjoyed and have no hesitation in asking you once again to –

HAVE FUN WITH YOUR FUCHSIAS.

George E. Bartlett

Introduction

History

It seems almost impossible to believe that fuchsias have only been known to the modern world since 1703; and it was not until the 1820s that the nurserymen and hybridists realized the potential of these plants and started to breed new plants from the available species. It is quite amazing that such a vast quantity of cultivars, of so many differing colours and form, has become available to us in so short a time.

Approximately 100 different species have been identified to date. All are native to the southern hemisphere, most growing in the countries of South America although one group is native to New Zealand. As it is from these species that all our modern cultivars have emanated, I feel that it is important to tabulate them giving the areas within which they are found (see below).

All the Species of Fuchsias

Section 1. Quelusia (Argentina, Brazil and Chile)

F. bracelinae

F. campus-portoi

F. magellanica var. macrostema

F. coccinea

F. magellanica

F. regia var. regia

F. magellanica var. alba

F. regia

F. regia var. alpestris

Section 2. Fuchsia (Andes and Central America)

F. abrupta

F. andrei

F. ayavacensis

F. canescens

F. ceracea

F. concertifolia

F. collata

F. crassistipula

F. decussata

F. dependens

F. fontinalis

F. gehrigeri

F. harlingii

F. hirtella

F. Ilewelynii

F. macropetala

F. macrostigma

F. mathewsii

F. orientalis

F. pallescens

F. pilosa

F. pringsheimii

F. rivularis

F. sammartina

F. scherffiana

F. simplicaulis

F. sylvatica

F. triphylla

F. venusta

F. vulcanica

F. ampliata

F. austromontana

F. boliviana

F. caucana

F. cohabambana

F. coriacifolia

F. corymbifolia

F. cautrecasii

F. denticulata

F. ferreyrae

F. furfuracea

F. glaberrima

F. hartwegii

F. lecbmanii

F. loxensis

F. macrophylla

F. magdalenae

F. nigricans

F. ovalis

F. petiolaris

F. polyantha

F. putamayensis

F. sanctae-rosae

F. scabriuscula

F. sessilifolia

F. steyermarkii

F. tincta

F. vargasiana

F. verrucosa

F. wurdackii

Section 3 Kierschlegeria (Chile)

F. lycioides

Section 4 Skinnera (New Zealand and Tahiti)

F. colensoi

F. exorticata

F. procumbens

F. cyrtandroides

F. perscandens

Section 5 Hemsleyella (Bolivia and Venezuela)

F. apetala

F. chloroloba

F. huanucoensis

F. insignis

F. membranacea

F. pitaloensis

F. tilletiana

F. cestroides

F. garleppiana

F. inflata

F. juntasensis

F. nana

F. salcifolia

F. tunariensis

Section 6 Schuffia (Central America and Mexico)

F. arborescens

F. paniculata

Section 7 Encliandra (Central America and Mexico)

F. × bacillaris

F. encliandra ssp encliandra

F. encliandra ssp tetradactyla

F. micropbylla ssp hemsleyana

F. micropbylla ssp micropbylla

F. micropbylla ssp mintiflora

F. parviflora

F. thymifolia ssp minimiflora

F. thymifolia ssp tbymifolia

Section 8 Jimenezia (Costa Rica and Panama)

F. jimenezia

Section 9 Ellobium (Central America and Mexico)

F. fulgens

F. splendens

F. decidua

Composts

‘What is the right type of compost to use when growing fuchsias?’ This is a question asked time and time again when visiting major shows. Unfortunately it is a question that has no answer. One tends not to be believed when giving the answer ‘Whatever feels right to you is probably right for your plants.’ And yet that is perhaps the only correct answer that can be given.

There is no magical formula that is necessary for successful fuchsia growing. Perhaps the most important factor is that the compost should be well-drained and open to the extent that the root system can breathe and the compost kept in a just moist condition. It matters very little whether the compost you use is loam-based or peat-based as both will be of equal value to your plants. The cost of the compost is no real guide either as cost usually reflects the amount of nutrient contained within the compost when first purchased. But as we will be adding our own nutrients and moisture to the compost as the seasons progress, what is contained within them initially is of little importance.

Perhaps it might be wise to use a loam- or soil-based compost such as the John Innes composts if you are in the lucky position of having some old-fashioned clay pots at your disposal. The porosity of the clay permits air to pass through to the roots and for excessive moisture to pass out. With the more commonly used plastic pots, which are both lighter to use and less prone to breakage, then a peat or coir-based compost will be quite satisfactory.

I was once asked if I could define a good compost. I was hard put to find a satisfactory answer but decided eventually that a good compost was one in which the plant was happy to anchor its roots and from which the root system could take up any moisture or nutrients that were present. Additional drainage material to open out the compost to assist with aeration and the ‘breathing’ of the roots was an added bonus.

A compost such as this can be found in all garden centres and DIY stores. The ‘general purpose’ composts sold by these firms, many at discounted prices, are quite adequate for our purposes and the plants will grow well in them. It is a pity that such bags of compost do not have a ‘mixed on’ or ‘use by’ date marked on them as a fresh, recently mixed, compost is what we need. Be wary of buying bags of peat or coir-based composts which feel very heavy when lifted and certainly leave alone any bags where the printing on the outside has become somewhat faded. As seasons progress the amount of compost sold by garden centres will ensure that there is quite a rapid turnover in their stock – perhaps it might be advantageous to develop a friendship with an employee who could direct you towards the latest batch of bags to arrive.

One of the cheapest forms of compost that can be bought is sold as grow bags. These are often referred to as tomato bags and many growers think that that is their sole purpose. I have found that the compost sold in grow bags is ideal for fuchsias – it is perhaps a little coarser than some of the other mixes but this is advantageous in that it gives added drainage. The complaint is sometimes made that the quantity of nutrients contained in grow bags is minimal. That being so, we will just have to start feeding our plants a couple of weeks earlier. If you are using copious quantities of compost in patio tubs and troughs then certainly grow bags contain the type of compost for you.

I have mentioned the necessity for a good well-drained compost. Yes – fuchsias like to have a ‘just moist’ compost through which their roots can circulate.

Additional drainage can be obtained by adding a proportion of grit to the compost (Cornish or Chichester grit is ideal as it is of a granite-type consistency). The addition of the grit will give added weight to the containers – very useful when growing standard fuchsias in pots – and will also ensure that excess moisture has a quick passage through and out of the pots.

If weight is not a consideration, especially when hanging baskets or pots are being used, then the compost can be ‘opened’ by using Perlite or Vermiculite. Both of these inert substances have the ability to absorb their own volume in water and yet still maintain their granular shape. The absorption of water assists greatly on those occasions when very hot weather rapidly dries out the compost and it is necessary to re-moisten the compost. Peat-based composts have the tendency to shrink away from the sides of the pots but the addition of Perlite or Vermiculite eases the problem quite dramatically.

I have mentioned coir-based composts as they are a natural replacement for peat-based composts and their use causes less environmental destruction. However, many growers who have tried coir have been unhappy with the results. I feel that this is a shame as a little perseverance and understanding of the compost will bring good results. Because of the very fibrous condition of the compost there is excellent drainage and it is probably necessary to supply water more frequently. The result of using extra water means that the nutrients contained within the compost are going to be leached out rather more quickly. They will therefore need replacing on a very regular basis – no real problem as the recommendation is often to feed the plants each time you water them.

The correct feeding of your plants is perhaps one of the most important factors in achieving the success that you aspire to. Although many growers have problems with regard to the elements necessary for healthy growth there are no real secrets. Plants to grow healthily need to have access to a number of trace elements. Perhaps, though, just three of them are the most important. On any bottle or packet of plant food you will find an analysis which gives an idea as to when it should be used. The three magical letters are (N), (P) and (K) – nitrogen, phosphates and potash. Nitrogen is important to plant development in that it promotes good, strong, upright and bushy growth. Excessive nitrogen will provide luscious growth at the expense of flowers. The phosphates help to build up a very strong root system – a vital element for the development of good plants. The potash helps the plants to assimilate the first two and also to ripen the plant and encourage the formation of buds and flowers. Potash is also obtained by plants from sunlight so during long sunny periods it might be advisable to reduce the amount of potash given to your plants.

It is always advisable not to exceed the recommended dosage as written on the packet or bottle. However, most manufacturers talk about feeding plants just once a week whilst more experienced growers often recommend feeding each time a plant is watered. If the latter advice is taken the amount should be reduced quite considerably – feeding at a quarter of the normal recommended strength. It might also be a good idea to get into the habit of using plain water once a week so that any build-up of salts in the compost can be washed away.

A recently introduced nutrient – sold as a fuchsia food – contains an additional 2 per cent of magnesium sulphate. Commonly known, when used as a human supplement, as Epsom salts this element has the ability of increasing the chlorophyll content of the foliage, helping plants whose leaves have become a little pale to regain their natural vibrant greenness.

Regularity of feeding and watering is of great importance when growing fuchsias. It is tempting, when a feed has been forgotten, to give a double helping the following day. Please resist the temptation – I suppose it would give the plant the equivalent of indigestion.

To sum up – my personal feelings are that the compost is of little direct importance but the subsequent feeding and watering of your plants is vital for good, strong and healthy growth.

Watering

In describing the types of compost available today, mention was made of the need to ensure that the compost is ‘well drained’. As all plants need quite large quantities of water in order to be able to live and grow, the question is often asked, ‘How often and how much?’

The first part of the question is very difficult to answer. It would be very easy to say ‘whenever they need it’ but that really begs the question. Plants will show you when there is a dire need for moisture as the leaves will become very flaccid and the sepals of any flowers will start to droop. Get to know the weight of each pot by constantly handling them. If the symptoms described above are evident, then lifting the pot up will indicate if it is short of water as it will feel very light in weight. The remedy will be to give the compost a thorough soaking: this can be achieved either by pouring water into the top of the pot and allowing it to seep through the compost, by pouring water into a saucer in which the pot is standing; or by immersing the whole pot in a bucket of water until all air bubbles cease to rise from the compost.

Unfortunately, many of the peat-based composts tend to shrink away from the sides of the pot as they dry out, and water poured into the top will find the easy route out and escape down the sides without moistening the compost to any great extent. Filling a saucer with water will have the desired effect of moistening all the compost by capillary action, but this takes time. There is also the possibility that the plant will be left standing in water so the compost becomes saturated and the air spaces disappear. After a period of time this will result in the root system being starved of air, and cause the plant to die by drowning. Immersing the pot in a bucket is perhaps the safest and quickest way of ensuring that the compost is thoroughly moistened.

There is also considerable debate as to whether tap water or rainwater should be used. Rainwater contains many minerals collected from the air and so is undoubtedly the best, but when supplies run out, as they invariably do during hot summer weather, then we will need to use water from the tap. If possible such water should be allowed to stand for a couple of hours before use to allow the chlorine content to disperse; if it is not, however, and watering is carried out directly with the use of a hosepipe, no harm will come to the plants. Watering overhead with a hosepipe does mean that the leaves will have a residue of chalk on them in hard water areas of the country.

When large numbers of plants have to be watered in a relatively short space of time then a hosepipe is the only real solution. However, bearing in mind that our plants sometimes also need feeding, it may be necessary to carry out this task by using a watering can. It is so easy to forget that during a long spell of hot weather, the plants will suffer with the continual leaching out of the nutrients when the watering takes place.

Plants indoors on windowsills will probably be standing in saucers to protect the woodwork. Watering of these plants should be carried out either by taking them to a sink where the water can be allowed to drain through the compost, or by watering into the saucer. If this is done, the recommendation is that the plant should be allowed to take up as much moisture as possible in about a quarter of an hour and then any excess water should be removed from the saucer.

Bear in mind that a damp sponge will always pick up more moisture than a dry one, and that very dry compost will take a great deal of patience before it contains the requisite quantity of moisture.

Overwatering

The symptoms which are present when the plant is dry and needs watering are unfortunately the same as when the plant is too wet and is ‘drowning’. However, by lifting the pot you can quickly determine if the pot is too light or too heavy, and if it is very heavy then it is important to take immediate action to reduce the quantity of moisture in the compost.

Remove the whole of the rootball from the pot: if it is very heavy the compost will look dark and soggy; there might also be a rather unpleasant smell coming from it. Stand the rootball on an upturned flowerpot and allow it to drain for several hours. If there is still no improvement to the look of the plant then more drastic action might be necessary, and as much of the old compost must be removed from the root system as is possible. The state of the roots can then be determined: white roots are alive and active, whilst brown gnarled roots are probably dead. If repotting is necessary then the plant, when repotted, should be placed in a shaded position until recovery is complete.

Treatment in Hot Weather

Often during periods of extremely hot weather, plants will give the impression of wilting even when there is sufficient water in the compost, the roots being unable to take up water in sufficient quantities to maintain the turgidity of the leaves. This excessive transpiration can be rectified by spraying the foliage at intervals during the day. Fuchsias are happier in shaded conditions so we must endeavour to give them this type of situation.

Fuchsias in the Home

When talking to visiting members of the public at shows a criticism of fuchsias often received is that plants purchased in full flower often drop their flowers and buds after a few days indoors. Although most of the enquirers are prepared to accept that it is possibly something that they have done incorrectly, others blame the fuchsia.

Actually neither the fuchsia nor the purchaser are entirely to blame. It is a pity that the supplier of the plant does not point out that fuchsias need a slightly humid atmosphere around them in order to grow healthily. Unfortunately, we like a dry atmosphere in our homes. If we think about the places where fuchsias are found growing naturally then we would realize that the moisture-laden atmosphere of the lower wooded foothills of South America is somewhat different from that in our houses. I am always very doubtful about recommending fuchsias as house plants for this very reason. It must be very disappointing to buy a superb flowering specimen only to witness the dropping of the flowers and the buds shortly after purchase. But the sudden change in humidity from greenhouse to home interior is to blame.

I like seeing fuchsias indoors but I prefer to think of them as being temporary visitors only – just in for a day or two and then back outside in a slightly more humid atmosphere. I was once told by a nurseryman that unless moss and ferns were able to grow alongside his fuchsias in the greenhouse the conditions were not right.

So how can we get the best of both worlds and enjoy the beauty of our plants indoors? These remarks apply in equal measure to those who wish to use fuchsias as table decorations as to those who like to grow fuchsias and other plants in conservatories. As we do not want to have high humidity in the whole of the room we must restrict it to an area immediately around each plant. Let us use the method recommended by growers of Saintpaulias (African violets) for they too need fairly high humidity around the plants to get the best results. Plant pots standing in a large saucer containing moist pebbles or large grit will have the higher humidity created by the moisture passing through the foliage. Perhaps though a word of warning, or a gentle reminder, might not come amiss. The compost in the pots should never be allowed to become a wet mass. The compost should always be kept in a ‘just moist’ condition. In order to be able to thrive a plant needs to have roots that are alive and active; roots completely immersed in water will rapidly rot and die. Roots need to be able to breathe and the only way in which air can enter the root ball, apart from entering from the top, is through the drainage holes in the bottom of our plastic pots. (Yes – limited air can enter through the sides of clay pots so perhaps these might be the best containers for plants growing indoors.) The base of the pot should, therefore, be above the level of the water in the tray or saucer – that is, the pot should be standing on the pebbles and not in them. Regular attention needs to be given to the watering of the compost to retain that just moist condition, but do not allow the water in the tray to rise above the base of the pot.

Plants on a humidifying pebble tray.

These remarks apply mainly to those plants which have been purchased or to those plants which were originally growing in your greenhouse. But what about plants that have known no other home than the one in which you now wish to display them? Plants which have been raised as cuttings on the windowsill (probably with the aid of a reflecting box to maintain straightness and evenness of growth) will be accustomed to the drier atmosphere and will therefore grow quite strongly for you. However, I would still advise the reader to stand the pots on pebbles to get the best results. If you have your plant pots standing in individual saucers then it is highly likely that you will be watering the plants by filling the saucer and allowing the root system to take up all the moisture it requires. The saucer should be filled with water and the plant given about fifteen minutes to absorb as much as it needs. After that time any water that is left should be thrown away and air will be able to enter the drainage holes once again. As there is likely to be quite a loss of moisture through transpiration it will probably be necessary to water plants growing in these conditions each day and maybe even more frequently. Get to know your plants by handling them regularly so that you will immediately recognize the symptoms when leaves start to lose their turgidity and become a little limp. Regular handling will also give you an idea of the weight you would expect – lightness will probably indicate dryness and a need for watering whilst heaviness will suggest that further watering is unnecessary. If there are flowers on your plants then it is the condition of the sepals that will give you the first indication that a drink of water is required. The sepals should be quite turgid and will be standing out and away from the petals in the corolla.

Plants growing permanently indoors still need to be fed and inspected for signs of attacks by aphids. Feeding with liquid feed at the same time as watering is quite satisfactory although perhaps better results are achieved if slow-release fertilizers are placed in the compost. It will be necessary, if pests such as greenfly or whitefly are found, to take the plant outside to give it a good spraying with insecticide or soapy solution. A regular freshening of the foliage to remove the inevitable dust particles that abound in dry conditions will also be very beneficial to your plants. Putting the plants outside during a rainstorm will carry out this task very satisfactorily.

To reiterate, I would not really recommend fuchsias as houseplants, but for those people who have no alternative then it is quite possible to achieve some considerable success and a great deal of satisfaction.

The Hardy Border

Fuchsias really do show themselves off to their best advantage when they are being grown in the garden border. The extra space available to them to make a superb root system means that top growth can grow luxuriously. The beauty of growing fuchsias in this way is that so little needs to be done, following the initial preparation of the ground, to ensure many years of fantastic flowers.

One of the major criticisms often heard is that the number of different types of fuchsias that can be grown in the open is minimal. Because of their delicate charm it is often thought that they must have a very delicate and tender constitution and will therefore need to be taken under cover during the winter months – that is not so. Another criticism is that hardy fuchsias are all red and purple in colouring – a visit to a national collection of hardy fuchsias will soon dispel that myth.

There are two basic ways in which fuchsias can be used in our garden borders – either as temporary occupants that will be taken up at the end of the season or as permanent members that will become firmly established and provide us with flowers over a number of years. The method of growing plants for using as temporary residents in the border varies very little from the method used to grow plants in large pots that will decorate the patio.

As with all things in gardening a certain amount of forward planning is necessary to ensure that the ground is in good heart and ready to receive the plants, and that the plants themselves are of sufficient size. I would suggest that by the end of spring it will be necessary to have good bushy plants growing very strongly in 3½ (9cm) or 5in (13cm) pots. It is therefore important that the young plants be started off as cuttings in the autumn prior to the year in which they will be permanently planted. You can take these cuttings yourself and overwinter them on the windowsill of a spare room or purchase some from a nursery or garden centre in early spring. Such plants will have been grown from cuttings taken in the autumn of the previous year. If you decide to buy in young plants then it will be necessary to grow on sturdily in the size of pot mentioned. Do not be tempted to place these plants in their final positions until the end of spring when all risk of frosts should have passed.

The preparation of the border can also be carried out during the autumn. Bearing in mind that once planted these fuchsias will remain in situ for a great many years then it is important to ensure that the ground is in good heart. Deep digging incorporating well-rotted compost will be of the greatest benefit to the plants as the root systems can forage amongst the water-retaining humus. A sprinkling of a fertilizer such as bone meal or Grow More and raking it into the surface will also be beneficial. Fuchsias prefer not to have perpetual sunshine throughout the day, dappled shading being the ideal. However, provided that the root systems can be kept moist throughout any hot dry spells, they will thrive virtually anywhere.

With the vagaries of the climate, it is possible that even in late spring there will be nights of quite severe ground frosts. However, it is important to give our plants as much time as possible in their first year to build up a good strong root system before the onset of early autumn frosts. So, when you consider that the risk of frosts is minimal, plant out your strongly growing plants but be prepared to cover them with horticultural fleece or some other insulating material if the weather forecasters talk of frosty mornings.

Four months of strong growth will produce those vital root systems. It is from the roots that, even when the top growth has been killed during the winter, fresh young shoots will produce for us a rich bounty of flowers in the summer. It is important to remember that fuchsias only flower on shoots that have grown during the current season.

Planting out fuchsias and the depth at which we place the roots is of considerable importance. There is no better insulation against sharp frosts than planting our fuchsias deeply in ‘mother earth’. Usually, when planting from pots it is recommended that the level of the compost in the pots should be level with the surface of the surrounding soil. I would suggest that, with fuchsias, a much deeper planting would be an advantage. If the surface of the compost in the pot is 2–3in (5–7.5cm) below the surface of the surrounding soil then extra protection from frosts will be given. One suggestion is that a saucer-shaped indentation should be made in the soil so that the centre of the indentation is about 3in (7.5cm) lower than the surrounding soil – the plant is then removed from its pot and planted in the indentation. During the course of the summer the saucer-shaped indentation will fill in and the plant will be at the required depth.

Hardy Border Calendar

*

WINTER

Dec

Jan

Feb

• check plants in hardy border and indoors

SPRING

Mar Apr May

• protect young growths from late frosts

• purchase young plants at the end of spring and plant in garden

• feed with a balanced fertilizer

SUMMER

June July Aug

• cut back old stems

• feed with a balanced fertilizer; water

• check for pests and, if necessary, spray with a systemic insecticide

• remove old flowers

AUTUMN

Sept Oct Nov

• take cuttings and nurture them in a cool room

• prune plants in the hardv border and prepare bed

*for the Northern Hemisphere

The temptation when first planting is to place the plants fairly close together. This is a mistake as plants grow very strongly and can attain bushiness with a diameter of 3–4ft (1–1.25m) during the second and subsequent years. If you intend planting one each of a number of differing cultivars then it would be best to place them about 18in (45cm) apart. Perhaps a better display is obtained if a group of three plants of the same cultivar are planted fairly close together. In this case, 9–12in (23–30cm) would be quite satisfactory and will give a glorious mound of foliage and flowers.

Once planted it is important to encourage good strong growth of both roots and tops during the first summer. Do not allow the root systems to dry out and an occasional feeding with a balanced liquid feed will ensure good strong growth. The training of the plant into a bushy form will have been carried out before planting so there will be no need to consider taking out the growing tips of the shoots to encourage further bushiness. It is important though to keep an eye open for any attacks by pests especially if your plants are in fairly close proximity to trees. Whiteflies are less of a problem in the open garden but attacks by greenflies and capsid bugs can be a nuisance as they nibble at the growing tips of the shoots causing blindness and distortion. A regulars praying with a combined insecticide/fungicide should keep these pests at bay. Plants in the hardy border are less likely to suffer from the disease ‘rust’ but nevertheless keep a wary eye open.

The first winter is the most important one for our hardy plants so we must make sure that they are given all the protection necessary. However, the amount we need to do is minimal especially if the plants were planted deeply. Following the first few frosts the bushes will probably be completely defoliated. Do not be tempted to remove the dead-looking stems as they will be useful in giving protection during the winter and will also act as a reminder of the position of the plants. By all means trim them back, perhaps by about a third, so that they are relatively tidy. A mulch of bark chippings around the crown of each plant will give further insulation from the frosts. Be prepared though to add to this mulch during the winter should birds be tempted to scratch about in it.

In the spring new growths will be seen pushing their way up through the mulch from the root systems. Be ready to protect these young shoots with horticultural fleece should severe frost threaten. When the shoots are growing strongly then the dead branches from last year can be removed by cutting them back to ground level. Even if new green shoots appear from the old branches (and this will happen if we have a mild winter), I would still recommend cutting out all the old stems as it is from the growth made during the current season that we get our new flowering branches. I like to see foliage and flowers from as low down as possible and prefer not to have quite long lengths of bare stems. However, if the plants are being used as hedging, then it is possible to be a little less ruthless when cutting the leading stems back to strong growing shoots.

Throughout this second year it will be wise to continue feeding your plants with a balanced fertilizer. Watering in dry weather will assist in keeping the foliage turgid and the flowering continuous. If, after three or four years, the plants have made such growth that they are becoming somewhat overcrowded then it might be advisable to thin them out. I would suggest that the best time of the year to do this is during early spring when the first new growths are beginning to show. The root system will have become quite extensive so it will be necessary to remove a very large block of roots and soil. If you intend to move the plant to a fresh site then make sure you have a large hole prepared and ready to receive it. It might be easier to take cuttings from the plants you wish to move during the autumn and to dispose of the old plant.

Selecting the plants that you will be using to make up your new border can be assisted by sending off for the catalogues prepared by specialist fuchsia nurseries. The height and spread expected of each cultivar is usually mentioned so that it should be possible to plan your border or bed with the taller growing plants situated at the rear. The colour, form and size of the flower is also mentioned so that the colour scheme that you require can be implemented.

Within the descriptions of plants later in this book an indication will be given of the hardiness of each plant together with the height and spread likely to be achieved.

Growing Fuchsias in Baskets and Half Baskets

A criticism sometimes levelled at plants growing in the hardy border is that the flowers cannot be seen in all their glory as they are too low down. The suggestion is often made that plants growing outside should be mainly those that carry an upward-looking type of flower. My mental picture of a fuchsia is of long arching branches from which the flowers hang pendulously. Many of our fuchsias fulfil this criteria but even greater success can be achieved in ‘showing off our fuchsias if we can grow them in such a position that the viewer can look up into the flowers.

Here then is where hanging baskets come into their own. The plants can be encouraged to form longer trailing branches from which the flowers will naturally hang down pendulously.

From the decorative point of view there is no need to worry at all about the type of container in which you grow your trailing plants. For show purposes various regulations are laid down so that all competitors start from the same line. These regulations usually cover the type of container, the shape of the basket, and the diameter and depth. Basically though, any container that can be suspended and will hold a reasonable quantity of compost that can be maintained in a well-drained condition, will be ideal for our purposes. Open mesh containers will need a liner of some type to hold the compost in position. This lining can be pre-formed layers of moss, or a sheet of polythene (old compost bags are ideal for this purpose). The most important requirement is that there should be drainage holes in the lining to prevent the drowning of the root systems.

The type of compost used for hanging containers is entirely up to the grower’s preference. I prefer to use one of the lightweight composts made from peat as I find that a moist loam based compost creates quite a strain on the hanging basket. A good all-purpose compost will be ideal and, bearing in mind that when hanging, baskets are open to the elements and tend to dry out quite quickly, it might be useful to add some of the newish water-retaining gels to the compost. It is also beneficial to mix in some slow-release fertilizers.

Although it is possible to keep baskets full of fuchsias from one season to another, the plants will be getting progressively larger, so most of us prefer to make up new baskets each year. It will therefore be necessary to think ahead so that plants of the required size will be available when needed. The earlier a basket is put together, the better and more floriferous it will be. A basket made up from small fuchsia ‘plugs’ purchased in April or May are unlikely to make an eye-catching display in the first season. However, cuttings taken in the autumn of one year will produce plants of the required size for the following spring. You can therefore take your own cuttings or purchase young plants from garden centres or specialist nurseries in very early spring (try looking in your garden centre during January and I am sure you will be amazed at the selection available to you in that wintry month). You will need six plants of the same variety to completely fill a 15in (37cm) or 16in (40cm) diameter basket. Although it is possible to use mixed varieties within the same basket they never look quite so good as a complete ball of flowers all being produced at the same time.

Such plants will need to be grown on steadily and sturdily but this can be done quite easily on the windowsill of a spare room, especially if a simple reflecting box is used. Good bushy plants will be required for March or April so the necessary ‘pinching out’ of the growing tips in order to get bushy plants should be undertaken each time that two or three sets of leaves have formed on each young branch.

By March or April the plants should be growing strongly in 3in (7cm) or 3½in (9cm) pots and should have a very vigorous root system. To make up a basket is quite a simple operation. Place the basket on a large flower pot or bucket for stability. Having put the liner (with drainage holes) in the basket, a small quantity of the prepared compost (with water-retaining gel and slow-release fertilizer – if required) is placed in the base of the basket. You will now need six pots of the same size as that in which the plants are growing. Place these empty pots on the compost in the positions that you wish the plants to occupy. Five around the edge of the basket and one in the centre would be ideal. Carefully fill the whole of the basket, including the empty pots, with your compost firming it by gently tapping it on the bench. There is no need to use your fingers for this firming. Fill the basket with compost until it is level with the tops of the positioning pots. When you remove the central pot you will find that you are left with an indentation in the compost the exact shape and size of the root systems of your plants. Remove the first plant from the pot and place it in the ‘formed’ hole. Continue with the remaining plants until all have been used. Your basket is now complete although you might decide to use the compost in the pots used as ‘formers’ to add to the height of the compost in the basket. Always leave a sufficient gap below the top level of the basket to assist in later watering of the plants.

Baskets made up during March and April cannot be placed outside as the risk of frost is always present. Give them as much light and warmth as possible in a greenhouse or conservatory to encourage strong and rapid growth of the branches. On very mild days it is possible to place these baskets outside so that a good watering and overhead spraying can be given, but be ready to take them inside before the temperature drops at night. Regular feeding with a balanced fertilizer and watering to maintain moistness but not wetness around the root systems will assist in this rapid growing. Keep an eye open for pests and diseases (white- and greenflies in particular) and deal with them as quickly as possible should they appear.

From about the middle of May it should be possible to place these baskets in their final positions on their hanging brackets – but always be ready to take them in should a frosty night be forecast. It should not be necessary to do any further ‘pinching out’ of the growing tips, but allow the laterals to grow strongly and to cascade over the edge of the basket.

By the end of June your patience should be rewarded with a hanging container overflowing with glorious flowers. Enjoy them but make sure that they continue to grow in good health by regularly feeding and watering them. Continuity of flowering can be assisted by regular removal of any flowers before they set seed.

Preparing a basket. Note the ‘formers’ used.

As autumn and winter approach it will be necessary to consider how you intend to overwinter your baskets. A second season of flowers is quite possible, but it will be necessary to ensure that the complete container is kept in a frost-free position throughout the cold seasons. Some growers prefer to leave their plants in situ whilst others like to remove them from the basket, separating them and treating them as individual plants (making up the basket anew the following spring).

If you decide to leave the basket as a complete unit then it will be necessary in late autumn or early spring to take the whole of the root ball out of the basket, remove a couple of inches of compost from the base (an old bread knife is ideal for this purpose), replace with fresh compost and then return the remains of the root ball. This will give the old root systems some fresh compost into which they can send new young, white roots.

There are a great many fuchsias with a trailing habit from which you can make your selection. A whole galaxy of colours is open to you. Look through the descriptions for those plants which have a ‘trailing’ habit or are ‘lax’ in their growth. I am sure you will be delighted with the success that you can achieve as you look up into the blooms and admire the ‘ballerina’ appearance of these dancing flowers.

Propagation and Propagators

The question is often asked as to how one can increase the number of plants in a collection or how one can raise new varieties.

With regard to the raising or discovering of new fuchsias there are two basic methods. The first is to obtain seeds from a plant and to raise new plants from them. This can be a random collection of seedpods or can be as a result of cross-fertilization of two plants of your own choice. The intention of any hybridizer is to improve upon the stock of plants already available or perhaps to introduce new colour variations. Unfortunately if some of the modern cultivars are used for this cross-fertilization there can be no guarantee as to what colour or type of plants will result. In fact from one seed pod it is possible to get many young seedlings all with different form, habit or colouring. Since the introduction of fuchsias in the early eighteenth century many crosses have been made using the species available at the time and also the results of those crosses. It would be interesting to discover whether some of the newer plants being produced each year are as a result of F1 or, perhaps, F20 crosses. Unfortunately, as a result of the weakening of the strain, many of the newer introductions do not have the strength and stamina to last more than a few years and, as a result, disappear from the nursery catalogues.

Fortunately some of our modern hybridists have realized this fact and have been returning to our ‘roots’ and using the species crossed with species (F1) to get new colour breaks. These ‘inter-specific’ hybrids have presented us with some very interesting new colour and form breaks.

Nevertheless, it is still possible to get something really exciting, ‘a complete breakthrough’, as a result of pure luck and the crossing of two favourite fuchsias.

Another of the methods by which new cultivars can be found is by simple observation. Very frequently a plant that may have been growing in the garden or in a large pot starts to produce branches that carry flowers or foliage completely different from those on the rest of the plant. This is referred to as ‘sporting’. If cuttings are taken from the branch which is showing this variation then it is possible that the resultant plants will also have the same variation. It will be necessary to continue to grow these new plants for a number of years to ensure that the change of colour in the flower or the foliage has been ‘fixed’. It is surprising how often plants of the same cultivar will, in wildly differing parts of the country, produce such ‘sports’ in the same season. Nobody seems to understand why this phenomenon occurs.

If it is our intention to simply increase the number of plants that we have of a specific cultivar then we need to take ‘cuttings’. A cutting is a small piece removed from a plant and given the right conditions for the formation of roots. Once the young plant has its own set of roots then we have a new plant which will be identical to the one from which the cutting has been taken. A cutting taken from a plant such as ‘Snowcap’ will produce another ‘Snowcap’ and can be named as such. That is why it is possible to purchase plants of the cultivars we choose from many differing sources around the country and for us to know the type of flower and growth that we will get. We should not forget though, when taking ‘cuttings’ from our plants, that strength will beget strength and cuttings taken from a weak and ailing plant are unlikely to have a great deal of vigour.

So what will we require in order that all the cuttings that we take from our plants will root and become new plants in their own right? Fortunately there is no need for any sophisticated equipment or even to be the proud owner of a greenhouse – a windowsill will serve our purpose just as well. We will need a propagator of some sort within which it will be possible to maintain humidity (types of propagators will be discussed later). We will need small pots or strips of pre-formed trays and a suitable compost or other material which will retain moisture. Further equipment required – a sharp knife or razor blade, plant labels and a waterproof marking pen. Finally we will need the plants from which cuttings can be taken or a supply of cutting material received from another grower.

Propagators

These can be as simple as possible and can be a 21b jam or pickle jar, a coffee jar or a plastic sweet jar, a small flower pot with a plastic bag of sufficient size to enclose the pot, a flower pot and a cut-down lemonade bottle that will fit in the top or a simple ice cream tray into which a rooting medium can be placed. In fact any transparent container, capable of being sealed so that the high humidity required for the successful rooting of the cuttings can be maintained, will be ideal.

It is of course possible to become far more sophisticated and to purchase a heated windowsill propagating tray onto which can be placed small trays of cuttings. A larger type of electric propagator within which the temperature can be thermostatically controlled can also be used. Ordinary seed trays with plastic domes will also give the necessary conditions for rooting to take place.

As will be seen from the list the main criteria for successful propagation is the provision of a humid atmosphere around the cuttings – the humidity will keep the severed cuttings turgid until rooting commences.

Compost or Other Rooting Mediums

If it is your intention to root your cuttings in compost then it is necessary to provide a material that will retain moisture. I use my ordinary peat-based multi-purpose compost to which I add an equal portion of Vermiculite. The Vermiculite opens out the compost but at the same time, since it is capable of absorbing its own volume in water, retains moistness around the base of the cuttings and the developing roots. In fact any medium can be used which is able to retain moistness. The compost does not need to contain any nutrients as the cuttings are incapable of taking up food until a root system has been formed. It is with this in mind that I would suggest a further medium into which you can root your cuttings – that is, the florist blocks of OASIS. A 1in-thick slice of well-moistened OASIS placed in the ice cream tray and standing in a small quantity of water will hold a number of cuttings, the root system forming within the OASIS. Not really very scientific perhaps – but it works.

In their own humid mini-climate the cuttings will root quite easily – but shade them from the sun.

Individual cuttings in their separate rooting modules will root easily. Label individually.

With our ‘propagators’ and the medium into which we will be placing our cuttings ready, we can take our cuttings. Perhaps the most important thing to ensure success is to have parent plants that have been well watered several hours prior to removing the cuttings so that every part of the plant is fully charged with moisture. There are numerous differing types of cuttings that can be taken and I have tried to show these in the illustration. Perhaps the easiest and most successful cutting is the ‘soft green tip cutting’. This is the very tip of each of the branches and will consist of a piece approximately 1in long (25mm) and will have a pair of semi-mature leaves and a growing tip. I remove this small piece by severing it from its parent by cutting just above the next lower pair of leaves. A good clean cut will ensure that there is no bruising to the base of the cuttings – any bruising might well lead to the onset of botrytis (rotting) and the loss of the cutting. The small cutting will be pushed gently into the compost that has not been firmed in any way. Once inserted, the cuttings should be ‘watered in’ using a fine rose on a watering can or a bottle with a screwed on ‘bottle top waterer’. The young cuttings should be labelled and the propagator top placed in position. The propagators should be placed in a position in light but not in a place where the hot rays of the sun can come through a window and through the propagator. If this happens, it is likely that the cuttings will be ‘cooked’. Really, the cuttings should be kept as cool as possible, a temperature of about 60°F (16°C) being ideal for the rooting process to take place. If there is the possibility of sunshine falling on the propagators then some type of shading will be necessary.

Types of cuttings from a single stem.

’Soft green-tip cuttings’, being charged with growth hormones, will root easily.

If you are using OASIS then it will probably be necessary to make a small hole with a cocktail stick in the OASIS so that the cutting is not damaged. With soft green tip cuttings there is no need to use hormonal rooting powders or liquid but if it gives you added confidence then by all means use them. Make sure that you place a label alongside each cutting so that you will not forget the name of the plant at a future date. When you have taken sufficient cuttings to fill your propagator or OASIS (making sure that no two cuttings are so close to each other that they are touching) then a slight watering with a fine rose on a watering can will settle the compost around the cuttings. This will be the only watering that your cuttings will receive until they are removed, well-rooted, from their propagators.

Cuttings inserted into wet OASIS will root very easily. Keep the OASIS moist by having water in the base of the container.

If rooting in OASIS there will be no need to cover the container with a plastic bag to retain humidity as the layer of water in the base of the tray will have that effect. Make sure that the water does not evaporate or the OASIS become dry. No harm will come if the tray is enclosed within a plastic bag.

After three or four weeks the young cuttings will be showing the first signs of growth. The centre shoots will be taking on a lighter green appearance and the leaves will develop a sheen. Do not be in a hurry to remove them from the propagators just yet – perhaps a further week would be advisable. You might however start the process of weaning the young plants from their high humidity. Allowing fresh, drier air to enter the propagators for a few minutes and gradually extending the period of time over the next few days will be beneficial.

With the plants beginning to grow quite strongly it will be necessary to plant them in larger pots containing your normal multi-purpose compost. I would suggest that they should first be placed in a 6cm square pot as they take up less room on the windowsill. Again make sure that each plant pot has its own label – do not rely on your memory. These small square pots can be placed in a home-made reflecting box which can be placed on the windowsill (see illustration above). These simple reflecting boxes will assist the young plants in growing sturdily and straight as they will have light coming from all directions and not just through the glass of the window. More care will need to be taken over the individual watering needs of each plant, so regular daily inspection will be necessary.

Reflecting box.

Cuttings rooted in OASIS need to have slightly different treatment. When roots are visible through the sides of the OASIS the opportunity can be taken to get the new young plants used to the type of nutrient they will experience when they start foraging in the compost. To this end the recommendation is to pour away the ‘pure’ water in the base of the container and replace it with a solution made up with a liquid fertilizer at about a quarter of the normal recommended strength. If this process is carried out a week or so prior to ‘potting’ up then the plants will suffer no setback when they are transferred to their compost. We will not need to remove the OASIS from around the root system but will cut a block of OASIS containing the roots and plant the block in the compost. Make sure that no part of the OASIS is above the surface of the compost as the exposed portion will become dry and will leach out the moisture from the rest of the small block. I feel that young plants started in OASIS need to have compost in slightly moister conditions than those planted directly into the compost.

Cuttings of fuchsias can be taken at any time of the year, but I find that I get the greatest success in early spring and in the autumn when I have far greater control over the temperature. Moisture and moderate warmth (not heat) is all that is required to root cuttings. However, it is possible to take a different type of cutting in the autumn of the year with a minimum of effort and with a great chance of success. Hard wood cuttings, up to 1ft (30cm) or more in length, can be removed from plants growing strongly in the garden or in large pots. All the foliage should be very carefully removed making sure that the dormant eyes in the leaf axils are not damaged. It can be advantageous to wound the base of each cutting by gently tapping the bottom inch or so with a sharp knife or razor blade. This will just cut through the surface of the skin. The base of the cuttings can then be dipped into hormonal rooting powder or liquid before insertion into a 3½in (9cm) pot or in the corner of a cold frame. The pots can be placed in a cold greenhouse but ensure, during the winter, that the compost does not dry out. Rooting might take a little while although it is possible that the buds in the leaf axils will develop and start to produce green shoots even before rooting commences. Although these plants will never make good specimen plants (useful though as plants in a hardy border) they will provide a good supply of young ‘green tip shoots’ for use as cuttings during the spring.