Gundog Health and Welfare E-Book

Tony Buckwell

• Herausgeber: Crowood
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2018

Beschreibung

Gundog Health and Welfare aims to provide concise guidance for those who aspire to acquire a healthy puppy as well as existing owners of gundogs so they might be reasonably informed on how best to ensure their dogs live healthy, happy, active lives and are able to assure their immediate care should they become ill or injured. The book covers: keeping your puppy healthy and introducing him to the outside world; reducing the risks of injury and disease; first aid in the field; recognising and dealing with illnesses and caring for the older dog. This book will be of interest to gundog owners and breeders, veterinary students and nurses. Fully illustrated with 190 colour photographs.

Leseprobe

GUNDOG

Health & Welfare

TONY BUCKWELL

THE CROWOOD PRESS

First published in 2018 by

The Crowood Press Ltd

Ramsbury, Marlborough

Wiltshire SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book first published in 2017

© Tony Buckwell 2018

All rights reserved. This e-book is copyright material and must not be copied, reproduced, transferred, distributed, leased, licensed or publicly performed or used in any way except as specifically permitted in writing by the publishers, as allowed under the terms and conditions under which it was purchased or as strictly permitted by applicable copyright law. Any unauthorised distribution or use of thistext may be a direct infringement of the author’s and publisher’s rights, and those responsible may be liable in law accordingly.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 78500 388 2

Dedication

To Wendy

CONTENTS

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1 Puppy Basics, Promoting Health

Acquiring a Healthy Puppy; Taking your Puppy to the Vet; The Importance of Socialization; Feeding Puppies; Exercising Puppies; Congenital and Developmental Abnormalities; Hereditary Diseases

2 Maintaining Health and Reducing the Risks

Routine Care; Routine Treatments; Control of Parasites; Diet and Nutrition; Fitness and Exercise; Transporting your Dog; Safety; Health Testing

3 First Aid in the Field

Preparedness; Assessing an Injury; Cuts, Lacerations and other Superficial Wounds; Bandaging; Penetrating Injuries, Puncture Wounds and Barbed Wire; Grass Seeds and Burrs; Stings and Bites; Road Vehicle Accidents; Fractures; Exercise Collapse; Heat Stroke; Poisoning

4 Injuries and Miscellaneous Conditions

Orthopaedic Conditions; Neurological Conditions; Skin Diseases; Eye Conditions; Ear Conditions; Diseases of the Digestive System; Miscellaneous Conditions

5 Care of the Older Dog

Signs of Ageing; Health Problems in Older Dogs; Caring for the Senior Dog

Appendix: Breed Predisposition to Hereditary and Other Diseases

Index

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I could not have written or illustrated this book without the encouragement, guidance and assistance of many people. I particularly wish to thank my wife Wendy for her support, and to acknowledge the assistance of my colleagues Professor Peter Bedford, Dr Gary Clayton-Jones and Alan Margetts, the professional gundog trainers Mark Bott, Kim Jinks, Tania Stapley and Di Stevens, gamekeepers Bill Gardiner, Stuart Ansell, and Steve Overy, and their beaters and pickers up from the Beech Estate, Brick House, Stone House and Bungehurst Shoots respectively, and my many friends in the South Eastern Gundog Society and the Kent & East Sussex branch of the Utility Gundog Society. I need to thank professional nature photographer Laurie Campbell for generously allowing me to use some of his images, and Andrew Crook for enabling me access to photograph specimens in the anatomy department of the Royal Veterinary College. Last but by no means least, my special thanks to Angela Gilchrist, the consultant clinical psychologist who first encouraged me to take up writing to help overcome the devastating effects of clinical depression.

INTRODUCTION

Man’s relationship with dogs is one of the most remarkable examples of domestication and mutual co-operation. It is one that began at least 14,000 years ago when the domestic dog (Canis familiaris) was probably derived from the Asiatic wolf (Canis lupus pallipes) and various hybrids with other races of wolf. Their increasingly close relationship with early man was facilitated by the suppression of certain fear and stress responses, which having been reduced or tolerated, enabled docility to be increased, whilst the intelligence and special senses inherent in their wild ancestors were retained. Subsequent artificial selection produced dramatic changes to their anatomy and behavioural repertoire, leading to the development of the various pedigree dog breeds that we see today.

Included among those selection criteria was a desire at an early stage to capitalize on, and harness the dogs’ natural hunting ability. Initially this was to assist our ancestors to more readily find and bring down game, but more recently, and particularly alongside the development and use of the modern sporting shotgun, we need to use dogs not only to hunt and mark, but also to retrieve game that we have killed or wounded, thereby extending the efficiency of our pursuit of game as a source of food and for sporting purposes.

Associated with interdependency in the process of domestication is a responsibility on our behalf to recognize and provide for the health and welfare needs of our dogs. In the United Kingdom this responsibility has become recognized as a legal obligation, enshrined in British law in the form of the Animal Welfare Act 2006, which makes it an offence either to cause a protected animal such as a dog to suffer, or to omit to take reasonable steps to prevent that animal’s suffering. Furthermore the Act, through various associated species-specific codes of practice, recognizes and encompasses the fundamental principles of animal welfare, generally referred to as the ‘Five Freedoms’, namely:

• Freedom from thirst, hunger and malnutrition

• Freedom from pain, injury and disease

• Freedom from fear and distress

• Freedom from physical and thermal discomfort

• Freedom to perform most normal patterns of behaviour

Ignorance is neither tolerated nor defensible, so whilst we might derive great pleasure and benefit from the dogs that accompany us whilst shooting or when they are capable of competing in the show ring, field trials or working tests, we do need to remember these responsibilities at all times. This book was never intended as a textbook of canine veterinary medicine and surgery, nor is it a comprehensive reference to every facet of canine welfare, behaviour and the law as it relates to shooting with dogs.

What I have attempted to do is provide concise guidance for owners of working gundogs so they might be reasonably informed on how best to ensure their dogs live healthy, active lives, and are able to assure their immediate care should they become injured. To do this I have tried to combine my experience in veterinary clinical practice with owning, training and working my own dogs, together with all that I’ve gleaned from the many more capable and competent gundog handlers I’ve had the pleasure and privilege of meeting and knowing over many years.

1 PUPPY BASICS,PROMOTING HEALTH

ACQUIRING A HEALTHY PUPPY

Acquiring a puppy should never be a matter undertaken lightly, nor should it represent a spur-of-the-moment decision. Acquiring a working gundog means seeking a puppy that will not only become a canine companion, but a dog that is steady to shot, biddable to train, intelligent, particularly in finding game, and of sufficiently robust constitution that it is unlikely to suffer some debilitating illness. Consequently you must be prepared to devote time and attention in the early stages to selecting a suitable puppy, as this will mean you are more likely to enjoy the satisfaction of owning a loyal, healthy, well trained and reliable dog.

A healthy and well-cared for gundog can be a friend and companion as well as an invaluable assistant in the field.

An English Springer Spaniel. Until relatively recently the English Springer Spaniel was far and away the most popular of the working spaniel breeds.

A working gundog represents a significant investment, and not just in financial terms. It requires commitment, time and responsibility. A lively young gundog will tax your patience at times, especially during adolescence, so be prepared for a few challenges as well as, hopefully, a great deal of satisfaction.

Before you seek to acquire a working gundog, determine which breed is most suitable for you, and for the type of work you require your dog to perform, and equally importantly, a suitable breeder from whom to purchase the puppy. Don’t be tempted to simply obtain a puppy from a friend who happens to have a litter and is looking for homes for the puppies. Do your homework, particularly if this is to be your first dog.

Choice of Breed

Understand that there is no such thing as the perfect dog: each of the working breeds has been developed in an attempt to satisfy certain criteria, and was selectively bred accordingly. No one breed will be perfect in every respect, although certain breeds are significantly more popular than others, the Labrador Retriever perhaps being the most obvious example. This trend reflects the contemporaneous requirements and preferences of the majority of people who choose to work their dogs under current conditions in the shooting field. Circumstances change, however, and the popularity of different breeds tends to wax and wane.

Many people are now finding the working Cocker Spaniel more to their liking, and in recent years the English Springer tends to be less numerous as a result.

Make sure you understand the type of dog you require, and – just as importantly – the particular nuances of a breed that interests you: each breed has its individual traits and tendencies. It is important to understand these characteristics so that you can anticipate and adapt accordingly to ensure your dog’s welfare within an appropriate environment. For instance, a personal favourite of mine, the Curly-Coated Retriever, is one of the less popular breeds, with a sensitive temperament and very slow to mature. The Curly has a tendency to ‘sulk’ if reprimanded; it takes a lot of time, patience and perseverance to train a Curly-Coated Retriever, and there’s many an occasion when it is better to end a training session there and then and try again another day.

A Curly-Coated Retriever, the largest of the retriever breeds.

It is not surprising, therefore, that you don’t come across many Curly-Coated Retrievers in the shooting field. A large dog with a tendency to be clumsy at times, the Curly will leap straight into the back of a vehicle full of beaters, expecting there to be room. He’s not an extrovert and he can be aloof with strangers, but he’s a loyal companion. He is content just being with you on the marsh quietly waiting for the evening flight, and is not a breed you expect to see rushing around flushing game from deep covert. He loves water and has a coat to match, which dries easily, albeit with a distinctive aroma that tends to linger in the upholstery after he has returned to the car.

Try to ensure that before you acquire your puppy, you can describe your chosen breed in such terms; then you are less likely to find yourself trying to cope with unexpected surprises.

Breed-Related Diseases

The Labrador Retriever, the most popular retriever in the UK. Although a variety of health conditions are reported, this in part reflects the responsible attitude of breeders in reporting and characterizing any health issues.

Associated with selective breeding from closely related dogs is an inevitable tendency for there to be breed-related diseases. There are, however, very few breed-specific diseases. Most of the clinical conditions we recognize in different breeds are diseases of dogs (in general) that happen to have a higher incidence in certain breeds. Don’t necessarily be put off if you find that the breed you are interested in suffers a variety of reported health problems. It doesn’t necessarily imply the breed is particularly unhealthy, because quite often, many breeders will have adopted health testing and selective breeding strategies aimed at reducing the incidence of these conditions within the breed.

Always bear in mind the fact that some diseases may render an affected dog quite unsuitable for work, or require long-term expensive treatment, whilst others may cause the dog little inconvenience or be quite simple to correct. It could be argued that a higher incidence of a disease which has little clinical significance and causes affected dogs little pain or discomfort, might be of less concern than a less common problem that has devastating, long-lasting painful effects in a relatively small number of affected dogs. So seek advice; speak to a variety of owners and breeders, and discuss with a vet any breed health concerns that you may have. Try to understand the relative risks so that you can select a suitable breeder who is more likely to have healthy stock of the type that you want.

The Welsh Springer Spaniel. It is less popular than the English Springer and Cocker Spaniel among the working fraternity; however, in common with many of the so-called ‘minor breeds’, Welsh Springers can both succeed in the show ring and, in the right hands, be worked on a shoot. WENDY BUCKWELL

Choosing a Breeder

Finding a suitable breeder whom you can trust, and, particularly if this is your first dog, someone who will willingly offer all the necessary further advice as the puppy gets older, can be quite a challenge. In some respects the extent of the challenge can depend on the breed: some breeds are far more numerous than others, so there will be more breeders to choose from and, of course, more litters available from which to choose a puppy. In the case of the less populous breeds, you may even have to select a breeder and expect to wait until a suitable litter becomes available.

In either case you are best achieving a rapport with the breeder so that you can speak openly: explain your circumstances and the type of puppy you are seeking. Expect the breeder to challenge you: a good breeder will be anxious to sell the puppies to good homes, and will need assurance that this is what you offer. You, on the other hand, will want assurances that the breeder has sound, healthy stock of suitable working ability.

Once you have a rapport with one or more breeders, enquire about the health and soundness of their dogs. If they undertake health testing, ask to see copies of the results, don’t simply take their word for it. If you have done your homework and understand any health issues in the breed, see how familiar the breeder is with these problems, and how they compare their dogs in these respects. You should find that most reputable breeders will be very well informed, a veritable ‘font of knowledge’, and in speaking with them your understanding of the breed will improve considerably. Good breeders aren’t just there to sell you a puppy: they tend to be the ambassadors of their breed, seeking good working homes where their dogs will be well cared for, well trained, and worked appropriately.

Any reputable breeder and trainer should be able to show you progeny of the ‘type’ you seek. Ideally both bitch and dog will be health tested so that you are unlikely to pick up any inherited problems.

Choosing a Puppy

So you have decided on the breed of dog you want, and have located a breeder whose dogs you like, someone with whom you have struck up a good relationship and who has a suitable litter of puppies available. So how do you go about choosing one of those puppies as the dog that’s going to be right for you?

This purpose-built whelping box has space centrally for the bitch to lie comfortably, and the periphery shelf enables puppies to retreat safely without risk of being squashed when the bitch lies down. Healthy puppies are quiet, sleepy, warm to the touch, plump, round and firm. They should make a contented murmuring noise periodically, and occasionally a sharp yelp if squashed or pushed off a teat.

This litter of Hungarian Vizslas is the result of an intentional ‘outcross’, where their sire and dam represented genetically distinct types within the breed. Note in particular how this has resulted in different head types among these puppies.

This Hungarian Vizsla bitch remains in fine condition despite the fact that she is nursing a large litter; note the prominent mammary glands.

Ideally visit the breeder as soon as the litter is well established, and the puppies are ready to meet potential new owners. At this stage consider the litter as a whole; ensure they are fit and healthy, and off to a good start in life. The litter should be nice and ‘even’, with puppies of roughly the same size, although dogs (males) may be slightly bigger and more ‘chunky’ than bitches, especially as they grow older and start to play with their littermates. If the bitch has a particularly large litter, then there will be competition for the milk bar, and even if the breeder is supplementing the milk supply, it won’t be unnatural to see a little unevenness, with maybe one or two smaller puppies, and one or two larger than the rest.

If you have a family, take them with you to meet the breeder and their dogs; many breeders will no doubt insist because, to them, the way your children behave and react to their dogs and puppies will be important. Ideally visit the breeder on more than one occasion so that by the time the puppies are ready to go, you will already have seen them, even if you have not made a final selection.

Once it comes to making a final choice, if you are dealing with a reputable breeder who has many years’ experience of breeding, raising and training their gundogs, and particularly if this is your first dog, be inclined to seek and take their advice. In the process of raising and starting to socialize the litter, the breeder will have noticed each puppy’s individual idiosyncrasies. Some pups will be bolder and have a more outgoing temperament; others may be more reserved and quieter. The former would probably suit someone with a strong personality who has previously trained a dog, certainly someone who can most easily cope with the temperament, whilst the latter might be better in a single dog household with an owner seeking a constant companion. Others may be less boisterous and a better choice if there are young children.

When you visit a breeder to view puppies always expect to see the bitch with her puppies, and be suspicious if presented with a litter of older weaned puppies and some excuse for the bitch being away from the premises.

Once weaned, Labrador Retriever puppies develop rapidly, and most are able to go to new homes by the time they are six to eight weeks of age.

Spend time with the litter, handling the puppies and talking with the breeder. If this is your first dog and you are acquiring it from a reputable breeder, maybe one that actively campaigns their dogs in field trials, don’t necessarily expect to be offered the ‘pick’ of the litter. The breeder may already have decided to run on a puppy. He or she will select what they consider to be the best puppy, and if they believe it to show any real promise, they are hardly likely to sell it to a novice with no previous experience either of the breed, or in training a gundog. They should, however, be able to readily compare the puppies with you, and to discuss their various strengths and weaknesses.

A pair of boisterous Vizsla puppies playing together.

If you are seeking a loyal companion and there is any doubt over which to select, let the puppy choose you.

At the end of the day, the breeder will usually want to ensure your satisfaction, and you need to be comfortable that you have made the right decision. If the breeder has chosen a puppy they think is suitable for you, always ask their reason(s) so you can understand their choice. Beware the person who brings out just the one puppy and emphatically announces ‘This is yours’. This is not a process that should be rushed, nor should a decision be forced upon you: you always have the option of walking away.

Settling In

Most good breeders can provide you with a list of essential items to acquire in preparation for your new puppy, and will give you small samples of the diet to feed, as well as a feeding guide and some basic instructions on house training and exercise. Typically you will require:

• A dog bed and bedding material that can be washed and dried easily

• A feed bowl

• A separate bowl for drinking water

House Training

Puppies will tend to void urine and pass faeces after each meal so you can take advantage of this tendency for house-training purposes. As soon as the puppy has eaten its food, take it outside and wait until ‘all is done’ – here there is a distinct advantage in raising puppies in the summer months and not during the winter; praise the puppy immediately it urinates or defecates. In any training regime, always give plenty of praise for a correct outcome, and never scold the puppy for getting something wrong – so always praise the puppy for toileting outside, and you should find that this soon becomes an ingrained behavioural process, the puppy learning to do something that pleases you. It is much more difficult to try to teach the puppy not to urinate or defecate indoors if you simply tell it off for doing so.

The first night in its new home is always one of the most stressful, for new puppy and new owner alike. If you intend the puppy to sleep in a particular room or place at night, it is a good idea to give him something, either to play with or to eat, as you say goodnight. A few biscuits are generally all that are needed just to take his mind off the fact that you are leaving him on his own. He will doubtless cry a little at first, but you must harden your heart: as long as you are sure he is warm enough and not asking to be let outside, then let him cry. If you keep going back to him every time he whines he will quickly learn that by whining and crying he will get your company and consequently cry even more.

Remember that dogs are essentially pack animals and like to be with others, so our domesticated dogs need to be taught to tolerate being alone. Start as you mean to go on, and even if your puppy has the company of another dog at night, always train the puppy to tolerate being left alone. Begin with short sessions when your puppy is young, and build up to longer absences gradually.

Puppies often suffer a mild gut upset after moving to a new home, and pass very loose stools. This is normally transient, however, and will settle down within a day or two. At the first sign of diarrhoea provide only very small amounts of the normal ration but more frequently, and make sure the puppy drinks plenty of fluid – again, little and often. Use an oral rehydration mixture (see text box) rather than plain tap water. Dose the puppy with a paediatric kaolin ‘binding’ preparation from the chemist.

ORAL REHYDRATION THERAPY

Mix together:

6 level teaspoonfuls of sugar

½ teaspoonful salt

1 quart (approx 1ltr) water

The water can be boiled or treated with sterilizing tablets, but this is not essential.

Some people would advocate withholding the puppy’s normal food for twelve hours, then substituting ‘white’ meat (chicken, lamb or fish, plus a little rice) for any ‘red meat’ meals, and giving some natural yoghurt as a ‘milk’ meal to rebalance the ‘friendly’ bacteria in its gut. This does, however, represent a change from the norm, and current veterinary advice is to avoid changing the environment any further in an already upset bowel.

Check for dehydration by pinching a fold of loose skin gently between finger and thumb. The fold of skin should collapse immediately; if it remains ‘tented’ it indicates that the puppy is becoming dehydrated. If the diarrhoea becomes more profuse, or blood-stained, or if the puppy becomes particularly dehydrated, take it to a vet immediately.

TAKING YOUR PUPPY TO THE VET

Once you have your new puppy, register it with a local veterinary practice and make an appointment for an initial consultation so the vet can check it over and advise on vaccination, worming and suchlike.

Visiting a veterinary surgery can be a stressful experience for your dog, especially on the first occasion. There will be lots of sights, smells and sounds in the surgery that will be new and unfamiliar to your puppy. There will also be strange people, and most likely other animals of types and sizes that the puppy has never encountered before. There are a number of things you can do, however, that can help make the visit less stressful for the dog and more comfortable and productive for you.

Take your dog for a walk, ideally somewhere safe that is not frequented by other clients’ dogs, before entering the reception area and waiting room. This will tend to make the dog calmer and present an opportunity for the pup to empty its bladder. If it’s a young puppy think about using a carrier. This prevents the puppy biting or scratching you if you are trying to hold it still whilst waiting, and will protect it from other pets. The last thing you want on the first trip to the vet is for your puppy to suffer any significantly nasty event or highly disturbing experience.

Keep the dog calm and under control in the waiting room by taking control of the situation, and keep him or her relaxed; give plenty of physical and verbal attention, talking softly using a reassuring voice. Make it a pleasant learning experience for your puppy; consider it part of the socialization process that can contribute towards training the puppy – calmness towards strangers in unfamiliar surroundings.

Help in the consulting and examination room. Whilst vets and veterinary nurses will be very experienced in handling nervous and frightened animals, your familiar face and smell, coupled with your tactile presence in helping, will tend to comfort the dog. Vets and nurses often have their own methods of helping puppies become accustomed to the environment in their surgery, so as necessary, expect and allow them to give treats or other forms of reward as part of their examination process.

Allow plenty of time. If possible make an appointment and allow the receptionist to suggest the best time for a first visit. Usually early mornings and evenings are busiest for the vet, so even though it may be less convenient for you, be prepared to avoid these peak periods.

Finally, visit frequently. Regular check-ups will help your dog become more accustomed to the experience, especially if he or she doesn’t come to associate the veterinary surgery with pain or some other form of anticipated discomfort. It will also enable the veterinary staff to get to know you and become more familiar with your dog. Obviously you won’t wish to incur unnecessary cost, so talk to the veterinary staff, particularly the receptionist and nurses, and see what they suggest. Many vets have weighing scales in the waiting room, and there may be no charge if you simply wish to keep a regular check on your dog’s weight as a reason to visit.

Vaccination

Inevitably your dog at some time or other will come across common canine infections, and unless protected, is likely to succumb to those diseases. The seriousness of any consequent illness will depend upon a number of factors, primarily the seriousness of the disease, and the degree of exposure and the effectiveness of the dog’s innate protective mechanisms to combat the infection. The latter will vary depending on the age of the dog (puppies and elderly dogs tend to be more susceptible), and his or her general standard of health. Dogs that are otherwise unwell or under-nourished will tend to be more susceptible, and dogs that are under some form of stress, such as from being in unfamiliar surroundings whilst in boarding kennels, will also tend to pick up infection more easily.

‘Prevention is better than cure’ as the saying goes, and the most effective means of preventing common infections is to have your puppy vaccinated. Effective vaccines are now available to protect against most of the significant infectious diseases of dogs. Most puppies acquired by responsible owners are likely to be vaccinated, but the level of protection will gradually wane. There is evidence to show that many aren’t revaccinated as often they should be, particularly as they get older. So do ensure that your dog is given appropriate ‘booster’ vaccinations at appropriate intervals to maintain his or her level of protection.

How Does Vaccination Work?

Vaccination consists of giving the dog a harmless dose of the infective agent, typically a virus or bacteria. The vaccine is typically rendered harmless either by first killing the agent, the typical method used to prepare bacterial vaccines, or by producing a so-called ‘live’ vaccine using a modified, non-infectious form of the disease-causing agent; this second method is often adopted when producing viral vaccines. When the dog is given a vaccine, its body will recognize it as something foreign, and this induces an immediate immune response: the body creates what are known as antibodies against the agent in question. Antibodies will continue to be produced and to circulate in the bloodstream, thereby recognizing and attaching to the infectious agent should the dog subsequently be exposed to the infection. The activated antibody attached to the infectious agent will then stimulate other parts of the dog’s immune defence mechanism to fight and overcome infection.

There are essentially two means of producing a vaccine. ‘Live’ vaccines are intended to multiply once administered, mimicking infection and stimulating the immune response to produce antibodies. ‘Killed’ vaccines need to be administered on more than one occasion and usually as two doses, given two to four weeks apart. The first dose of a killed vaccine will stimulate only a mild immune response, but as soon as the second dose is given, the dog’s immune system recognizes the vaccine and responds more vigorously, producing a much higher level of protection.

The immune response to vaccines tends to wane in time; the length of time will depend on the type of vaccine, and, of course, whether or not the dog has subsequently been exposed to infection. The protection given by ‘live’ vaccines tends to last longer than that from using ‘killed’ vaccines. Most ‘dead’ vaccines have to be boosted annually, whereas ‘live’ vaccines can create a much longer-lasting level of immunity. The need for booster vaccination will depend both on the type of vaccine used, and the risk of exposure to disease within the local environment.

These days the former practice for all dogs needing similar routine annual ‘booster’ vaccinations has largely been replaced by a more intelligent, risk-assessed approach. When you take your puppy to be vaccinated, discuss your circumstances with your vet and explain your dog’s intended lifestyle. Your vet can take into consideration various factors such as how common a particular disease is in your area, and which diseases your dog is most likely to encounter both at home and on a shoot, and can advise you accordingly. By understanding your dog’s lifestyle and what it may be exposed to, they can suggest which vaccines are most important, and how frequently those vaccinations need to be repeated.

When to Vaccinate

A typical canine vaccine comprises a vial containing a freeze-dried pellet (left), which prior to injection has to be dissolved in either the sterile water provided (centre), or mixed with another agent in liquid form – in this example a leptospirosis vaccine (right).

Puppies are normally given a first vaccination at six to eight weeks of age, and a second at around twelve to fourteen weeks of age, although some vets in certain areas may advise delaying the final vaccination until the puppy is sixteen weeks of age. The apparent difference in advice between various veterinary practices is explained by problems arising from the variable persistence of maternal antibody protection – passive temporary protection that puppies receive from their dam through the ‘first milk’ when they start suckling immediately after birth. The bitch produces a substance called colostrum in her milk, which transfers some of her immunity, as antibodies, in her milk.

Colostrum is only produced by the bitch for twelve to thirty-six hours after whelping, and it is obviously very important that puppies receive the benefit of this ‘first milk’. The amount of protection provided to the puppy, and the length of time the colostral milk conveys protection, depends entirely on how much of this milk is consumed. Consequently individual puppies will vary in the amount of protection they receive from their mother, and for how long this protection lasts. The level of protection generally falls off between six to eight weeks of age, but in many puppies, especially those that suckle vigorously after birth and which therefore receive most colostrum, it can persist until twelve to sixteen weeks of age. Maternal antibodies interfere with vaccination, and if the level of maternal antibodies remains high there is a risk that the vaccine won’t ‘take’ and the puppy will be unprotected.

This obviously complicates matters, since ideally the vaccine would be given as soon as the puppy’s maternal antibody level declines to the point where the vaccine can stimulate a strong immune response and induce the puppy to produce its own antibodies. Too soon, and the vaccine won’t ‘take’; too late, and there is a risk that the puppy is unprotected after the protection from its mother falls away, until such time as it is given the vaccine. The problem has been resolved to some extent by modern vaccines that are slightly more virulent and able to overcome low maternal antibody levels.

It will be best to seek, trust and follow the advice of your veterinary surgeon. Your vet will understand the characteristics of the particular vaccines currently used in the practice, and will also be aware of the relative disease risks in your particular area. The diseases that are usually included in most multivalent canine vaccines are described below.

Canine distemper: A disease that affects dogs of all ages, but is particularly common in puppies. It usually results in death, and is characterized by respiratory signs, such as runny eyes and nose, and nervous signs such as fits, which may follow later.

Canine parvovirus: This is a distressing disease, often characterized by severe vomiting and profuse blood-stained diarrhoea, which usually leads to dehydration and death. Again, it is common in puppies, but can affect and be fatal in older, unvaccinated dogs.

Canine viral hepatitis: A very contagious disease. Symptoms include a high fever, jaundice, vomiting and stomach pains. Again, it can be fatal.

Leptospirosis: Dogs infected by the leptospira bacteria can suffer liver and kidney damage, and require prolonged treatment if they are to recover fully.

Infectious bronchitis, or ‘kennel cough’: Many of the more recent ‘multivalent’ vaccines include viral antigens that help protect against infectious bronchitis, otherwise known as ‘kennel cough’. Kennel cough is frequently complicated by the presence of a bacterium called Bordetella bronchiseptica, which causes infection in addition to these common viruses. The combined viral/bacterial infection causes respiratory disease, ranging from a mild cough to severe bronchopneumonia. An intranasal vaccine provides protection against Bordetella bronchiseptica, and is strongly recommended for dogs going anywhere where unfamiliar dogs congregate, such as working tests and field trials, and especially into boarding kennels. Any boarding kennel should always ask to see your dog’s certificate of vaccination before admitting the dog, and if it doesn’t, don’t board your dog in the kennels!

This intranasal vaccine provides protection against Bordetella bronchiseptica, an important element of kennel cough infection. A special applicator is provided, attached to the syringe, to facilitate administering the vaccine into the nostrils.

Do also seek your vet’s advice on how soon you can take the puppy out after vaccination and allow it to mix with other dogs, and to exercise it in places where other dogs are likely to have been. Owners have a dilemma, in that they must ensure that puppies are kept away from other dogs until they are fully vaccinated, whilst at the same time they need to ensure that the puppy is well socialized whilst very young.

Worming

A variety of products is available for worming dogs, some formulated so they can be administered as either tablets or liquids, and even in the form of a tasty bone, as here.

Worm treatment is simple and inexpensive. Regular worming is recommended not only to ensure no harm can come to the puppy, but also for public health reasons, as some types of worms commonly found in dogs can be passed on to humans.

When you collect your puppy, typically at around six to ten weeks of age, it is likely to have been wormed already by the breeder on more than one occasion, but do check and make sure that you have details of what was used and when, so you can pass on this information to your vet.

How frequently puppies require worming will normally depend on the type of anthelmintic used. An anthelmintic is a product that kills worms: helminth parasites. Some anthelmintics will kill both adult worms and their immature forms (see Chapter 4), and will inactivate worm eggs so they cannot hatch. Most products prescribed by vets will kill both roundworms and tapeworms; most will also be active against hookworms, whipworms and lungworms, although the last three parasites are normally less of a problem. The products that are currently most commonly used are described below.

Fenbendazole: A broad spectrum anthelmintic that can be used to both treat and control adult and immature roundworms. Fenbendazole is also effective in killing roundworm eggs. You should treat your puppy every two weeks with fenbendazole until it is twelve weeks of age. Thereafter it should be treated at three-monthly intervals. Fenbendazole is useful insofar as it is safe to use on very young puppies, and can be used by breeders to worm puppies as young as two weeks of age.

Combinations of Praziquantel, Pyrantel Embonate and Febantel: These have the advantage of being active against ascarids (roundworms, including both adult and late immature forms), hookworms, adult whipworms and tapeworms. Unfortunately they cannot be used to treat puppies that are less than 3kg bodyweight, but once they reach that size, puppies can safely be treated every two weeks until twelve weeks of age, and then at three-monthly intervals thereafter.

When using either of these products, it is not necessary to starve the dog prior to worming, as was often the case previously. Many older worming preparations tended to ‘purge’ the dog, which then passed worms in its faeces. However, don’t be concerned if you don’t see worms in the faeces after using most modern anthelmintics, because the worms are killed high up in the gastrointestinal tract and are processed naturally by the digestive juices as they pass down the gut.

A more thorough discussion of the various types of worms, how they persist, and the means of controlling them, will be found in Chapter 4.

Neutering

Castrated at an early age, this Cocker Spaniel has subsequently developed a characteristic dense, fine-textured, woolly coat.

Neutering is a general term used to describe the surgical removal of the sexual organs from dogs and bitches. Castration describes the removal of the testes from male dogs, and the term ‘spaying’ describes the removal of the ovaries and uterus (the canine equivalent of the womb) from female dogs.

Be aware that there can be certain consequences following the neutering of puppies, especially bitches; although there is no medical reason not to let a bitch have a litter before spaying, some benefits, such as protection against mammary tumours, can be lost if the operation is delayed. Discuss both the advantages and disadvantages of neutering with your vet (see box below) – though never feel you are under any obligation to decide one way or the other until you are fully conversant with the likely effect(s) on your dog, and you have good reasons to support your final decision.

It is definitely not a good idea to spay a bitch when she is in season or about to come into season. This is because the blood supply to the uterus and ovaries is increased at this time, which increases the risks inherent in surgery.

Another time that vets advise against spaying is around eight weeks after a season, when a bitch will be undergoing hormonal changes that can lead to signs of false pregnancy. Spaying a bitch at this time is considered unfair because her hormones make her feel as if she is nursing pups, and the operation would be the equivalent of suddenly removing a litter. She may also be producing milk at around this time as an effect of false pregnancy, and the enlarged milk glands can delay healing of the spay wound.

THE ADVANTAGES AND DISADVANTAGES OF NEUTERING

Advantages of Castration: Castrating male dogs obviously means they are incapable of fertilizing a bitch and producing puppies, although it won’t necessarily overcome the characteristic behavioural tendencies around in-season bitches, and castrated dogs might still mount a bitch or another dog. It does, however, remove the risk of prostate problems, and the risk of testicular cancer. It can also reduce some forms of aggressiveness, and can assist in overcoming some hypersexual behaviour.

Disadvantages of Castration: Castrating male dogs may not reliably reduce aggression, and may not reduce dominant behaviour or fighting due to the dominant behaviour of another entire male. It can influence growth rate and maturation, so a castrated dog may grow slightly larger than if it had remained entire. It increases the likelihood that your dog will tend to put on excess fat, unless you take steps to strictly control its food intake and exercise it regularly. Castration will normally affect the growth and texture of your dog’s coat, with a tendency for it to grow long and woolly.

Advantages of Spaying: Spaying bitches avoids the risk of them developing ovarian cancer, and reduces the incidence of mammary tumors, if carried out at an early age. The bitch will not subsequently suffer the signs of false pregnancy, and will not develop womb infections (pyometra). Spaying obviously ensures no unwanted pregnancies.