Hadrian's Coastal Route E-Book

Clifford Jones

• Herausgeber: The History Press
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Serie: Walker's Guide
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Seitenzahl: 145

Beschreibung

'Be part of history, walk a frontier lost for over fifteen hundred years.' The Western Hadrianic Frontier of the Roman Empire is little known by the general public. Until recently the frontier was viewed as merely a series of forts with a fluid means of defence and administration between them, and the public was understandably drawn to the physical remains of Hadrian's Wall crossing from Bowness-on-Solway to Wallsend. Archaeologists have always known different, and it is only now that they are beginning to shout from the rooftops that the Western Frontier is as important as the stones that cross the Pennines. Fortunately, through the efforts of a small band of archaeologists and Historic England, the public perception is changing. There is a wealth of magnificent and diverse scenery and amazing archaeology which rivals the better-known sites along the Hadrian's Wall. Walking the frontier offers opportunities for personal adventure and discovery. There is plenty of variety in the west; catch a train or bus, buy local produce, enjoy a beer and a good bed, but most of all enjoy the quest. This fully updated and illustrated guide offers the walker an insight into this relatively unknown world – one that still has much to reveal.

Leseprobe

First published 2008 as Hadrian’s Coastal Route: Ravenglass toBowness-on-Solway

This edition first published 2024

The History Press

97 St George’s Place, Cheltenham,

Gloucestershire, GL50 3QB

www.thehistorypress.co.uk

© Clifford Jones, 2008, 2024

The right of Clifford Jones to be identified as the Author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without the permission in writing from the Publishers.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 80399 635 6

Typesetting and origination by The History Press

Printed and bound in Great Britain by TJ Books Limited, Padstow, Cornwall.

eBook converted by Geethik Technologies

MAIN ROUTE MAP

Contents

Introduction

Walking in the Roman Army’s Footsteps

A Western Frontier

Getting Started

Day One: Pottering to Highs & Lows

Section: Millom to Ravenglass

Day Two: Steaming out of Ravenglass

Section: Ravenglass to Seascale

Day Three: Along the Cinder Track

Section: Seascale to St Bees

Day Four: Flying High to Whitehaven

Section: St Bees to Whitehaven

Day Five: Along the Old Track

Section: Whitehaven to Workington

Day Six: Ancient Coasts & Windmills

Section: Workington to Maryport

Day Seven: Roman Beachcombing

Section: Maryport to Allonby

Day Eight: Quick March to Mawbray

Section: Allonby to Silloth-on-Solway

Day Nine: Mud, Monks & Marshes

Section: Silloth-on-Solway to Abbeytown

Day Ten: Walk on the Wild Side

Section: Abbeytown to Bowness-on-Solway

General Information

Bibliography

Introduction

The Western Hadrianic Frontier of the Roman Empire is little known by the general public. Until recently, the frontier was viewed as merely a series of forts, with a fluid means of defence and administration between them. The public was understandably drawn to the physical remains of a wall crossing from Bowness-on-Solway to Wallsend.

Archaeologists have always known different and it is only now that we are beginning to shout from the rooftops that the Western Frontier is as important as the stones that cross the Pennines.

Fortunately, through the efforts of a very small band of archaeologists and Historic England, that position is changing. There is a wealth of magnificent and diverse scenery and amazing archaeology which rivals the sites along the better-known Hadrian’s Wall.

Walking the frontier offers opportunities for personal adventure and discovery. It is not a single line to follow; the diversions are part of the whole. You can do all or some; there is plenty of variety in the West. Catch a train, or bus; buy local produce; enjoy a beer and a good bed. But most of all, enjoy the quest!

This guide offers the walker an insight into this relatively unknown world; the importance here is that history is still being revealed, and archaeologists are just starting the long process of understanding how the Western Frontier works.

Be part of history. Walk it!

Walking in the Roman Army’s Footsteps

BASIC PRINCIPLES

Good, worn-in boots

To enjoy a good walk, have the right boots; this is a long-distance expedition capable of filling approximately ten days and a comfortable pair of boots is essential. So be prepared.

The Roman equivalent of our lightweight walking shoe or boot was the ‘Caligae’, an apparently flimsy leather sandal, not offering much in the way of protection from the elements, but at least it was well ventilated. A well-ventilated foot is a happy foot! Fitted with studs for grip and useful for imposing severe injury on fallen enemy forces and trampling new road surfaces alike, it was much tougher than it looked.

Waterproofs

The Roman equivalent was the ‘sagum’. Winter conditions in the far north of Britain, especially with the need to stand still and observe rather than march about, led to the use of a thick woollen cloak, copied from the natives. The Vindolanda tablets identify a pressing and constant need for more socks and underwear, suggesting a cold posting. Also a smelly one!

West Cumbria can be a glorious spot on a good day, but the weather can be extremely inclement, especially on exposed sections such as beaches or clifftops. A good quality set of lightweight waterproofs, including overtrousers, is a must.

Bait: an army marches on its stomach

The route has mixed opportunities for provisioning, especially beyond Allonby if taking the Roman shortcut, and Silloth-on-Solway if on the main route. The author suggests that the walker carries adequate basic supplies to get them through at least a full day. Major opportunities to stock up are available at Seascale, St Bees, Whitehaven, Workington, Maryport and Silloth-on-Solway, but there are useful small shops throughout the journey which the author encourages the walker to use whenever possible.

The Roman military understood dry rations, but when in a fort or on frontier duty the basic healthy diet would be a grain ration of 830g per day, issued as grain as it does not deteriorate like flour. Soldiers ground the grain themselves. Bread ovens are prevalent all over Roman military establishments, often used to keep parts of forts warm in winter. At Houseteads there are bread ovens near the latrines, useful to stop the occupants freezing in winter! Archaeological remains show that the troops had frying pans, allowing for a quick and easy meal in the field, and stew pots, producing a meaty dinner. Fresh vegetables complemented this diet and the soldier could further supplement this by popping into the local vicus (a civilian settlement, often for retired soldiers and craftspeople) to one of the bars or shops there.

The Romans set up milecastles as part of a defensive strategy, but also because the army understood that the men needed to rest at regular intervals; the walker should take note of this. The watchtowers were manned to keep a roving eye on the landscape and the walker should do too.

Observe and record

As the author stresses, you, the walker, may notice something that he and his fellow archaeologists have missed. The idea of this guide is for the walker to explore and not be fooled by us so-called specialists and experts. Take a photo, make a note and let me know.

Here is a translated Roman intelligence report found at Vindolanda from the late first or early second century:

… the Britons are unprotected by armour (?). There are very many cavalry. The cavalry do not use swords nor do the wretched Britons mount in order to throw javelins.

British Museum P&EE 1986 10-1 34, Room 49: Roman Britain

Common sense

Please keep to paths to keep erosion down and remember that agriculture plays an enormous part in the Cumbrian economy, so close gates after you. Plan ahead – ring establishments to check opening times (never just trust a website).

Open mind

The walk deliberately starts at Ravenglass. It is good to start a walk involving Roman Britain with some physical remains (like the Roman Bath House) to encourage the walker, because it is followed by a virtual desert of obvious Roman remains for many miles. Slowly, as the walker progresses along the way, the process of observing and understanding the landscape begins.

A rise in the ground level, a river to cross, a change in the coastline, an old beach inland, a dried-up river course, all may be considered as indicators to the former landscape.

Why is that field that shape?

Why is that grass greener and longer than the rest?

Why does that crop not grow so well just in that one patch?

These are all clues which the walker can consider, record and enjoy the process of finding.

Wherever practicable, the walker is walking in the Roman Army’s footsteps. A long-lost frontier, which through the walking, will come back to life.

In every case of a newly found site under archaeological research the exact location has been excluded from this guide. This is to protect the archaeology from those seeking only personal material profit. Please report any obvious human intervention or finds found as the result of erosion at known archaeological sites to:

Historic England

North West Region

Canada House

3 Chepstow Street

Manchester, M1 5FW

Telephone: [phone]

Where possible provide details of location, including grid reference.

A Western Frontier

From a modern perspective, the heritage of the Western Frontier has been managed as a series of islands of interest down the West Cumbrian coast.

Ravenglass Fort and Bath House

Moresby Fort

Burrow Walls Fort

Maryport Fort and Environs

Allonby Bay Mileforts & Towers

Bowness-on-Solway Fort

The word ‘frontier’ is rarely used regarding the Cumbrian coast, but seems appropriate in the very straightforward sense of the coast being a geophysical line between land versus sea. So, a frontier it is!

A frontier suggests a need for a barrier, but it seems not to be a feature of the early advancement of Rome in the North West, and there appears to be no evidence of native coastal defences to stop the Romans arriving by sea. The Hadrianic constructions (AD 122) seem to be the most likely date for the works down the coast as well. There is no point in a barrier unless you protect the ends, otherwise people will just go around it! This poses the question of why the original Wall stopped at Newcastle upon Tyne and had to be extended further east to Wallsend and Tynemouth. But the whole endeavour is full of question marks.

The Cumbrian side is narrower compared to the Northumberland side, and the lack of good stone saw a turf and wood barrier on the Cumbrian side – a style that seems to have remained popular between the western forts down the coast. If nothing else, the Romans were practical and flexible to circumstances. It also highlights that the frontier altered over time. Ireland and Scotland may have seemed a greater threat from day one, whilst the eastern tribes had been subdued and no immediate threat remained, so there was no reason for enclosure. Much later, the east was no less under threat of incursion, resulting in watchtowers further down the east coast – by which time much of the western coast was under less immediate threat.

The reader must consider that the Solway and the Cumbrian coast is a highway and it would be difficult, if not impossible, to stop every vessel from plying these waters, and so ideas travel as well as goods. The limitations of a frontier are apparent, as information and learning are universal; the Cumbrian coast would likely always have been a hotbed of political change.

Forts at key strategic river and coastal locations have more to do with the culmination of good long-term planning, exploiting the well-established trading links to maintain control of that trade, rather than the prospect of an invasion.

The Roman fleet, the packhorse of the Roman Army, required drinking water. Pure sources were required to keep the sea lanes open and the numbers of wells at Ravenglass are testament to this theory, and the pattern is repeated throughout the early coastal military establishments – good water close to the sea.

Once the Romans were fully established, fort locations offered the opportunity to tax vessels as they passed by. The Roman Empire relied on an efficient taxation system to maintain the status quo.

The list of heritage sites mentioned above is only a fraction of the likely actual material remains.

The walker can pose the question:

If the physical remains of Roman coastal watchtowers, mileforts and palisade ditches are traceable from Bowness-on-Solway to Maryport, does the system reach all the way to Ravenglass?

The answer is yes. Archaeologists are by nature cautious, and rely on evidence. There is just enough to suggest a constant, if irregular, barrier.

The reasoning is, if the contrary presumption is considered, that there is only a need for a physical ‘side’ to Hadrian’s Wall to protect against an attack between Bowness-on-Solway and Maryport. This would expose Workington and its river, which offers potential for deep incursion into the hinterland.

It is very unlikely that the low-lying ground from Maryport to Workington was left so exposed, with only the fort at Burrow Walls to stop incursions.

There seems to have been a need to be seen to be administering a system of control, rather than to be constantly patrolling the coast, suggesting that there were only occasional forays from tribes outside the Empire attempting to exploit its wealth. At least until the second century ad.

WHY STOP AT RAVENGLASS?

Whilst there is an apparently excellent means for an army to get inland via the River Esk, going further east than Hardknott would be impossible and the terrain to the north has limited routes via the Fells, all of which would be death traps. If an army attempted to turn immediately north after landing along the coastal strip, this would be met with opposition at Ravenglass and Moresby: the Fells are too rugged for a military force to pass unopposed, unlike the scenario at Workington, where the terrain is much gentler.

Active archaeological research between Ravenglass and Maryport continues apace to confirm a physical frontier. A hopeful sign is the recently reported discovery of a very deep ditch ‘with wood at the bottom’ running between Saltcoats and Drigg.

A THEORETICAL (BUT HOPEFULLY PLAUSIBLE) SCENARIO FOR ROMAN ARRIVAL

Imagine the scene during the last days of the Roman Republic. Marcus Tullius Cicero is busy prosecuting in Rome; meanwhile, the tide is lapping at a small trading vessel’s bow as it arrives at the quiet native harbour of Ravenglass in the far-off land of mists beyond Gaul.

The beach is a No Man’s Land; no one can truly call it their own, so trade takes place on this margin. Nobody feels as if they are being invaded when the sea reclaims it and all parties can put distance between each other quickly. There is nowhere to hide, so it is a place to meet strangers.

As long as no sword is drawn all is well, and this is the case as the parties greet each other with a mutual interest in commerce. The trader soon learns of good water sources, mineral wealth, what crops are grown, who is in command and who the natives’ enemies are.

This process is repeated time and time again, and eventually a series of trading bases are set up with trustworthy local chiefs easily pacified by quality Roman products, such as good wine.

The trader’s profitable return to his home base in Gaul creates interest from his fellow traders and this commercial inquisitiveness encourages others to consider exploration and exploitation. From Gaul, the trader’s findings eventually reaches Rome; aristocrats, already accomplished at doing business with barbarians, are well-placed to consider investment in further expeditions into the far North West, and to protect their interests they provide traders with mercenary forces.

Back in Ravenglass, cordial relations continue between the natives and the trader and his compatriots; time passes and the next generation of the trader’s family continue the cycle. Sailors and traders have further cordial relations with the native women and the social control of the native settlement begins the process of Romanization. Trade prospers, the knowledge and skills of some of the natives increase, and the enslavement of other groups is a profitable occupation, allowing for even more good living.

Such profit requires protection and the traders (for more have arrived) are allowed to construct suitable secure enclosures for their goods. The locals allow access to the hinterland; the source of the local wealth, be it agriculture, minerals or a mixture of both, is now open for thorough exploitation.

Time passes, as it tends to do. The Republic falls, the Imperial Age arrives, and the Emperor Claudius, needing to legitimise his control of the Empire (having removed his predecessor Caligula) by gaining a swift and effective victory over something and someone, and urged on by his tradesman friends eager to get into a market that had previously been the sole realm of aristocrats, stamps his mark by doing so in AD 43.

With Rome firmly established in Britannia, the gates for trade were thrown open and information, previously in the hands of the few, are suddenly available to the many. It is boom time, but after boom comes bust and the local chieftains found themselves in severe financial difficulty. They attempted to throw the Romans out and nearly succeeded, resulting in a heavy Roman military presence and a desire to control all parts of the island to prevent further revolt.

As a result of several generations of trading contacts, the increase in official military activity in the north of Britannia meant that the contacts to date were seen as valuable military intelligence. A wider understanding of the territory and peoples is crucial information for Gnaeus Julius Agricola, based at Chester, preparing for military forays into the far north.

A picture of the wealth of an entire region, its geography and demography was easily established; the allegiances and enemies known. All this makes a military occupation so much easier. A small fortlet was set up close to the harbour facility at Ravenglass – the Romans had arrived.