Improvised Weapons & Munitions – U.S. Army Ultimate Handbook E-Book

U.S. Department of the Army

• Herausgeber: Madison & Adams Press
• Kategorie: Fachliteratur
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Seitenzahl: 186

Beschreibung

Originally created as a U.S. Army Technical Manual, this ebook provides detailed explanation of manufacturing munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available materials. Primarily intended to increase the potential of Special Forces and guerrilla troops, "Improvised Munitions Handbook" represents perfect reading for all arms enthusiasts, as well as civilians considering their safety. This edition offers simple instructions, enriched with a large number of illustrations, on various techniques for constructing many different weapons and devices made of materials that can be bought in a drug or hardware store or found in a junkyard. The instructions are presented in a way that even people normally not familiar with making and handling munitions can use them. Table of Contents: Explosives and Propellants Plastic Explosive Filler Improvised Black Powder Carbone Tet- Explosive Methyl Nitrate Dynamite Urea Nitrate Explosive Sodium Chlorate and Sugar or Aluminum Explosive… Mines and Grenades Nail Grenade Wine Bottle Cone Charge Coke Bottle Shaped Charge… Small Arms Weapons and Ammunitions Pipe Pistol for 9 mm Ammunition Shotgun (12 gauge) Carbine (7.62 mm Standard Rifle Ammunition) Rifle Cartridge… Mortars and Rockets Shotgun Grenade Launcher Fire Bottle Launcher 60 mm Mortar Projectile Launcher… Incendiary Devices Chemical Fire Bottle Gelled Flame Fuels Improvised White Flare Improvised White Smoke Munitions… Fuses, Detonators & Delay Mechanisms Electric Bulb Initiator Fuse Igniter from Book Matches Delay Igniter from Cigarette Watch Delay Timer Can-Liquid Time Delay Detonator… Miscellaneous Mousetrap Switch Knife Switch Rope Grenade Launching Technique Bicycle Generator Power Source Improvised Battery Armor Materials… Primary High Explosives Secondary High Explosives

Leseprobe

U.S. Department of the Army

Improvised Weapons & Munitions – U.S. Army Ultimate Handbook

How to Create Explosives Devices: Propellants, Mines, Grenades, Mortars and Rockets, Small Arms Weapons and Ammunition, Fuses, Detonators and Delay Mechanisms

Madison & Adams Press, 2017. No claim to original U.S. Government Works Contact: [email protected]

ISBN 978-80-268-7301-3

This is a publication of Madison & Adams Press. Our production consists of thoroughly prepared educational & informative editions: Advice & How-To Books, Encyclopedias, Law Anthologies, Declassified Documents, Legal & Criminal Files, Historical Books, Scientific & Medical Publications, Technical Handbooks and Manuals. All our publications are meticulously edited and formatted to the highest digital standard. The main goal of Madison & Adams Press is to make all informative books and records accessible to everyone in a high quality digital and print form.

Table of Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1 Explosives and Propellants

Chapter 2 Mines and Grenades

Chapter 3 Small Arms Weapons and Ammunition

Chapter 4 Mortars and Rockets

Chapter 5 Incendiary Devices

Chapter 6 Fuses, Detonators & Delay Mechanisms

Chapter 7 Miscellaneous

Appendix 1 Primary High Explosives

Appendix 2 Secondary High Explosives

Abbreviations

Introduction

Table of Contents

0.1 Purpose and Scope

In Unconventional Warfare operations it may be impossible or unwise to use conventional military munitions as tools in the conduct of certain missions. It may be necessary instead to fabricate the required munitions from locally available or unassuming materials. The purpose of this manual is to increase the potential of Special Forces and guerrilla troops by describing in detail the manufacture of munitions from seemingly innocuous locally available materials.

Manufactured, precision devices almost always will be more effective, more reliable, and easier to use than improvised ones, but shelf items will just not be available for certain operations for security or logistical reasons. Therefore the operator will have to rely on materials he can buy in a drug or paint store, find in a junk pile, or scrounge from military stocks. Also, many of the ingredients and materials used in fabricating homemade items are so commonplace or innocuous they can be carried without arousing suspicion. The completed item itself often is more easily concealed or camouflaged. In addition, the field expedient item can be tailored for the intended target, thereby providing an advantage over the standard item in flexibility and versatility.

The manual contains simple explanations and illustrations to permit construction of the items by personnel not normally familiar with making and handling munitions. These items were conceived in-house or, obtained from other publications or personnel engaged in munitions or special warfare work. This manual includes methods for fabricating explosives, detonators, propellants, shaped charges, small arms, mortars, incendiaries, delays, switches, and similar items from indigenous materials.

0.2 Safety and Reliability

Each item was evaluated both theoretically and experimentally to assure safety and reliability. A large number of items were discarded because of inherent hazards or unreliable performance. Safety warnings are prominently inserted in the procedures where they apply but it is emphasized that safety is a matter of attitude. It is a proven fact that men who are alert, who think out a situation, and who take correct precautions have fewer accidents than the careless and indifferent. It is important that work be planned and that instructions be followed to the letter; all work should be done in a neat and orderly manner. In the manufacture of explosives, detonators, propellants and incendiaries, equipment must be kept clean and such energy concentrations as sparks, friction, impact, hot objects, flame, chemical reactions, and excessive pressure should be avoided.

These items were found to be effective in most environments; however, samples should be made and tested remotely prior to actual use to assure proper performance. Chemical items should be used as soon as possible after preparation and kept free of moisture, dirt, and the above energy concentrations. Special care should be taken in any attempt at substitution or use of items for purposes other than that specified or intended.

0.3 User Comments

It is anticipated that this manual will be revised or changed from time to time. In this way it will be possible to update present material and add new items as they become available. Users are encouraged to submit recommended changes or comments to improve this manual. Comments should be keyed to the specific page, paragraph, and line of the text in which changes are recommended. Reasons should be provided for each comment to insure understanding and complete evaluation. Comments should be forwarded directly to Commandant, United States Army, Special Warfare School, Fort Bragg, North Carolina 28307 and Commanding Officer, United States Army, Frankford Arsenal, SMUFA-J8000, Philadelphia, Pennsylvania 19137.

Chapter 1 Explosives and Propellants

Table of Contents

1.1 Plastic Explosive Filler

A plastic explosive filler can be made from potassium chlorate and petroleum jelly. This explosive can be detonated with commercial #8 or any military blasting cap.

Materials Required

How Used

Potassium chlorate

Medicine Manufacture of matches

Petroleum jelly (Vaseline)

Medicine Lubricant

Piece of round stick

Wide bowl or other container for mixing ingredients

Procedure

Spread potassium chlorate crystals thinly on a hard surface. Roll the round stick over crystals to crush into a very fine powder until it looks like face powder or wheat flour.

Place 9 parts powdered potassium chlorate and 1 part petroleum jelly in a wide bowl or similar container. Mix ingredients with hands (knead) until a uniform paste is obtained.

Note:

Store explosive in a waterproof container until ready to use.

1.2 Potassium Nitrate

Potassium nitrate (saltpeter) can be extracted from many natural sources and can be used to make nitric acid, black powder and many pyrotechnics. The yield ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, depending on the fertility of the soil.

Materials

Source

Nitrate bearing earth or other material, about 3-1/2 gallons (13-1/2 liters)

Soil containing old decayed vegetable or animal matterOld cellars and/or farm dirt floorsEarth from old burial groundsDecayed stone or mortar building foundations

Fine wood ashes, about 1/2 cup (1/8 liter)

Totally burned whitish wood ash powderTotally burned paper (black)

Bucket or similar container, about 5 gallons (19liters) in volume (plastic, metal, or wood)

2 pieces of finely woven cloth, each slightly larger than bottom of bucket

Shallow pan or dish, at least as large as bottom of bucket

Shallow heat resistant container (ceramic, metal, etc.)

Water – 1-3/4 gallons (6-3/4 liters)

Awl, knife, screwdriver, or other hole producinginstrument

Alcohol about 1 gallon (4 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)

Heat source (fire, electric heater, etc.)

Paper

Tape

Note: Only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much potassium nitrate, double quantities used.

Procedure

Punch holes in bottom of bucket. Spread one piece of cloth over holes inside of bucket.

Place wood ashes on cloth and spread to make a layer about the thickness of the cloth. Place second piece of cloth on top of ashes.

Place dirt in bucket.

Place bucket over shallow container. Bucket may be a ported on sticks if necessary.

Boil water and pour it over earth in bucket a little at a time. Allow water to run through holes in bucket into shallow container. Be sure water goes through all of the earth. Allow drained liquid to cool and settle for 1 to 2 hours.

Note

: Do not pour all of the water at once, since this may cause stoppage.

Carefully drain off liquid into heat resistant container. Discard any sludge remaining in bottom of the shallow container.

Boil mixture over hot fire for at least 2 hours. Small grains of salt will begin to appear in the solution. Scoop these out as they form, using any type of improvised strainer (paper, etc.).

When liquid has boiled down to approximately half its original volume, remove from fire and let sit. After half an hour add an equal volume of alcohol. When mixture is poured through paper, small white crystals will collect on top of it.

To purify the potassium nitrate, redissolve the dry crystals in the smallest possible amount of boiled water. Remove any salt crystals that appear (step 7); pour through an improvised filter made of several pieces of paper and evaporate or gently heat the concentrated solution to dryness.

Spread crystals on flat surface and allow to dry. The potassium nitrate crystals are now ready for use.

1.3 Improvised Black Powder

Black powder can be prepared in a simple, safe manner. It may be used as blasting or gun powder.

Materials Required

Potassium nitrate, granulated, 3 cups (3/4 liter) (

section 1.2

)

Wood charcoal, powdered, 2 cups (1/2 liter)

Sulfur, powdered, 1/2 cup (1/8 liter)

Alcohol, 5 pints (2-1/2 liters) (whiskey, rubbing alcohol, etc.)

Water, 3 cups (3/4 liter)

Heat source

2 Buckets – each 2 gallon (7-1/2 liters) capacity, at least one of which is heat resistant (metal, ceramic, etc.)

Flat window screening, at least 1 foot (30 cm) square

Large wooden stick

Cloth, at least 2 feet (60 cm) square

Note: The above amounts will yield two pounds (900 grams) of black powder. However, only the ratios of the amounts of ingredients are important. Thus, for twice as much black powder, double all quantities used.

Procedure

Place alcohol in one of the buckets.

Place potassium nitrate, charcoal, and sulfur in the heat resistant bucket. Add 1 cup water and mix thoroughly with wooden stick until all ingredients are dissolved.

Add remaining water (2 cups) to mixture. Place bucket on heat source and stir until small bubbles begin to form.

Caution:

Do not boil mixture. Be sure

all

mixture stays wet. If any is dry, as on sides of pan, it may ignite.

Remove bucket from heat and pour mixture into alcohol while stirring vigorously.

Let alcohol mixture stand about 5 minutes. Strain mixture through cloth to obtain black powder. Discard liquid. Wrap cloth around black powder and squeeze to remove all excess liquid.

Place screening over dry bucket. Place workable amount of damp powder on screen and granulate by rubbing solid through screen.

Note:

If granulated particles appear to stick together and change shape, recombine entire batch of powder and repeat steps 5 and 6.

Spread granulated black powder on flat dry surface so that layer about 1/2 inch (1-1/4 cm) is formed. Allow to dry. Use radiator, or direct sunlight. This should be dried as soon as possible, preferably in one hour. The longer the drying period, the less effective the black powder.

Caution:

Remove from heat

as soon as

granules are dry. Black powder is now ready for use.

1.4 Nitric Acid

Nitric acid is used in the preparation of many explosives, incendiary mixtures, and acid delay timers. It may be prepared by distilling a mixture of potassium nitrate and concentrated sulfuric acid.

Materials Required

Source

Potassium nitrate (2 parts by volume)

Drug Store Improvised (

section 1.2

)

Concentrated

sulfuric acid (1 part by volume)

Motor vehicle batteries Industrial plants

2 bottles or ceramic jugs (narrow necks are preferable)

Pot or frying pan

Heat source (wood, coal, or charcoal)

Tape (paper, electrical, masking, etc. but

not

cellophane)

Paper or rags

Important: If sulfuric acid is obtained from a motor vehicle battery, concentrate it by boiling it until white fumes appear. Do not inhale fumes.

Note: The amount of nitric acid produced is the same as the amount of potassium nitrate. Thus, for 2 tablespoonfuls of nitric acid, use 2 tablespoonfuls of potassium nitrate and 1 tablespoonful of concentrated sulfuric acid.

Procedure

Place dry potassium nitrate in bottle or jug. Add sulfuric acid. Do not fill bottle more than 1/4 full. Mix until paste is formed.

Caution:

Sulfuric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled.

Wrap paper or rags around necks of 2 bottles. Securely tape necks of bottles together. Be sure bottles are flush against each other and that there are no air spaces.

Support bottles on rocks or cans so that empty bottle is slightly lower than bottle containing paste so that nitric acid that is formed in receiving bottle will not run into other bottle.

Build fire in pot or frying pan.

Gently heat bottle containing mixture by moving fire in and out. As red fumes begin to appear periodically pour cool water over empty receiving bottle. Nitric acid will begin to form in the receiving bottle.

Caution:

Do not overheat or wet bottle containing mixture or it may shatter. As an added precaution, place bottle to be heated in heat resistant container filled with sand or gravel. Heat this outer container to produce nitric acid.

Continue the above process until no more red fumes are formed. If the nitric acid formed in the receiving bottle is not clear (cloudy) pour it into cleaned bottle and repeat steps 2–6.

Caution:

Nitric acid will burn skin and destroy clothing. If any is spilled, wash it away with a large quantity of water. Fumes are also dangerous and should not be inhaled. Nitric acid should be kept away from all combustibles and should be kept in a

sealed ceramic or glass

container.

1.5 Initiator for Dust Explosions

An initiator which will initiate common material to produce dust explosions can be rapidly and easily constructed. This type of charge is ideal for the destruction of enclosed areas such as rooms or buildings.

Materials Required

A flat can, 3 inches (8 cm) diameter and 1-1/2 inch (3-3/4 cm) high. A 6-1/2 ounce (185 g) tuna can serves the purpose quite well.

Blasting cap

Explosive

Aluminum (may be wire, cut sheet, flattened can or powder

Large nail, 4 inches (10 cm) long

Wooden rod – 1/4 inch (6 mm) diameter

Flour, gasoline and powder or chipped aluminum

Note: Plastic explosives (Composition C4, etc.) produce better explosions than cast explosives (Composition B, etc.).

Procedure

Using the nail, press a hole through the side of the tuna can 3/8 to 1/2 inch (1 to 1-1/2 cm) from the bottom. Using a rotating and lever action, enlarge the hole until it will accommodate the blasting cap.

Place the wooden rod in the hole and position the end of the rod at the center of the can.

Press explosive into the can, being sure to surround the rod, until it is 3/4 inch (2 cm) from top of the can. Carefully remove the wooden rod.

Place the aluminum metal on top of the explosive.

Just before use, insert the blasting cap into the cavity made by the rod. The initiator is now ready for use.

Note: If it is desired to carry the initiator some distance, cardboard may be pressed on top of the aluminum to insure against loss of material.

How to Use

This particular unit works quite well to initiate charges of five pounds of flour, 1/2 gallon (1-2/3 liters) of gasoline or two pounds of flake painters aluminum. The solid materials may merely be contained in sacks or cardboard cartons. The gasoline may be placed in plastic coated paper milk cartons, plastic or glass bottles. The charges are placed directly on top of the initiator and the blasting cap is actuated electrically or by fuse depending on the type of cap employed. This will destroy a 2,000 cubic feet enclosure (building 10 x 20 x 10 feet).

Note: For larger enclosures, use proportionately larger initiators and charges.

1.6 Fertilizer Explosive

An explosive munition can be made from fertilizer grade ammonium nitrate and either fuel oil or a mixture of equal parts of motor oil and gasoline. When properly prepared, this explosive munition can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials Required

Ammonium nitrate (not less than 32% nitrogen)

Fuel oil or gasoline and motor oil 1:1 ratio)

Two flat boards. (At least one of these should be comfortably held in the hand, i.e. 2 x 4 and 36 x 36.)

Bucket or other container for mixing ingredients

Iron or steel pipe or bottle, tin can or heavy-walled cardboard tube

Blasting cap

Wooden rod – 1/4 inch diameter

Spoon or similar measuring container

Procedure

Spread a handful of the ammonium nitrate on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour (approximately 10 minutes).

Note:

Proceed with step 2 as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled.

Mix one measure (cup, tablespoon, etc.) of fuel oil with 16 measures of the finely ground ammonium nitrate in a dry bucket or other suitable container and stir with the wooden rod. If fuel oil is not available, use one half measure of gasoline and one half measure of motor oil. Store in a waterproof container until ready to use.

Spoon this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can, a glass jar or a heavy-walled cardboard tube.

Note:

Take care not to tamp or shake the mixture in the pipe. If mixture becomes tightly packed, one cap will not be sufficient to initiate the explosive.

Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.

1.7 Carbon Tet – Explosive

A moist explosive mixture can be made from fine aluminum powder combined with carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials Required

Source

Fine aluminum bronzing powder

Paint Store

Carbon tetrachloride, or tetrachloroethylene

Pharmacy, or fire extinguisher fluid Dry cleaners, Pharmacy

Stirring rod (wood)

Mixing container (bowl, bucket, etc.)

Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)

Storage container (jar, can, etc.)

Blasting cap

Pipe, can or jar

Procedure

Measure out two parts aluminum powder to one part carbon tetrachloride or tetrachloroethylene liquid into mixing container, adding liquid to powder while stirring with the wooden rod.

Stir until the mixture becomes the consistency of honey syrup.

Caution:

Fumes from the liquid are dangerous and should not be inhaled.

Store explosive in a jar or similar water proof container until ready to use. The liquid in the mixture evaporates quickly when not confined.

Note: Mixture will detonate in this manner for a period of 72 hours.

How to Use

Pour this mixture into an iron or steel pipe which has an end cap threaded on one end. If a pipe is not available, you may use a dry tin can or a glass jar.

Insert blasting cap just beneath the surface of the explosive mix.

Note: Confining the open end of the container will add to the effectiveness of the explosive.

1.8 Fertilizer AN-Al Explosive

A dry explosive mixture can be made from ammonium nitrate fertilizer combined with fine aluminum powder. This explosive can be detonated with a blasting cap.

Materials Required

Source

Ammonium nitrate fertilizer (not less than 32% nitrogen)

Farm or Feed Store

Fine aluminum bronzing powder

Paint Store

Measuring container (cup, tablespoon, etc.)

Mixing container (wide bowl, can, etc.)

Two flat boards (one should be comfortably held in hand and one very large, i.e. 2 x 4 and 36 x 36 inches)

Storage container (jar, can, etc.)

Blasting cap

Wooden rod – 1/4 inch diameter

Pipe, can or jar

Procedure

Method I – To Obtain a Low Velocity Explosive

Use measuring container to measure four parts fertilizer to one part aluminum powder and pour into the mixing container. (Example: 4 cups of fertilizer to 1 cup aluminum powder.)

Mix ingredients well with the wooden rod.

Method II – To Obtain a Much Higher Velocity Explosive

Spread a handful at a time of the fertilizer on the large flat board and rub vigorously with the other board until the large particles are crushed into a very fine powder that looks like flour (approximately 10 minutes per handful).

Note:

Proceed with step b below as soon as possible since the powder may take moisture from the air and become spoiled.

Follow steps a and b of Method I.

Store the explosive mixture in a waterproof container, such as glass jar, steel pipe, etc., until ready to use.

How to Use

Follow steps 1 and 2 of How to Use in section 1.7.

1.9 “Red or White Powder” Propellant

“Red or White Powder” Propellant may be prepared in a simple, safe manner. The formulation described below will result in approximately 2-1/2 pounds of powder. This is a small arms propellant and should only be used in weapons with 1/2 inch inside diameter or less, such as the Match Gun or the 7.62 Carbine, but not pistols.

Materials Required

Heat source (kitchen stove or open fire)

2 gallon metal bucket

Measuring cup (8 ounces or 240 milliliters)

Wooden spoon or rubber spatula

Metal sheet or aluminum foil (at least 18 inches square)

Flat window screen (at least 1 foot square)

Potassium nitrate (granulated) 2-1/3 cups (560 milliliters)

White sugar (granulated) 2 cups (480 milliliters)

Powdered ferric oxide (rust) 1/8 cup (30 milliliters) (if available)

Clear water, 3-1/2 cups (840 milliliters)

Procedure

Place the sugar, potassium nitrate, and water in the bucket. Heat with a low flame, stirring occasionally until the sugar and potassium nitrate dissolve.

If available, add the ferric oxide (rust) to the solution. Increase the flame under the mixture until it boils gently.

Note:

The mixture will retain the rust coloration.

Stir and scrape the bucket sides occasionally until the mixture is reduced to one quarter of its original volume, then stir continuously.

As the water evaporates, the mixture will become thicker until it reaches the consistency of cooked breakfast cereal or homemade fudge. At this stage of thickness, remove the bucket from the heat source, and spread the mass on the metal sheet.

While the material cools, score it with the spoon or spatula in crisscrossed furrows about 1 inch apart.

Allow the material to air dry, preferably in the sun. As it dries, rescore it occasionally (about every 20 minutes) to aid drying.

When the material has dried to a point where it is moist and soft but not sticky to the touch, place a small spoonful on the screen. Rub the material back and forth against the screen mesh with spoon or other flat object until the material is granulated into small worm-like particles.

After granulation, return the material to the sun to dry completely.

1.10 Nitric Acid/Nitrobenzene (“Hellhoffite”) Explosive

An explosive munition can be made from mononitrobenzene and nitric acid. It is a simple explosive to prepare. Just pour the mononitrobenzene into the acid and stir.

Materials Required

Source

Nitric acid

Field grade or 90% concentrated (specific gravity of 1.48)

Mononitrobenzene (also known as nitrobenzene)

Drug store (oil of mirbane)Chemical supply houseIndustries (used as solvent)

Acid resistant measuring containers

Glass, clay, etc.

Acid resistant mixing rod

Blasting cap

Wax

Steel pipe, end cap and tape

Bottle or jar