Kokoda Trail for Dummies, Australian Edition - Peter Williams - E-Book

Kokoda Trail for Dummies, Australian Edition E-Book

Peter Williams

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Beschreibung

Everything you need to know about the Kokoda Trail and its place in Australian history Interest in the Kokoda Trail is growing rapidly among many Australians, both for its attraction as a hiking destination and for its historical significance. Kokoda For Dummies offers a fast track tool for learning everything you need to know about this unique thoroughfare, in one concise volume. Part history book, part practical guide, Kokoda For Dummies is perfect both for those considering following our Diggers' footsteps along 'the track' or armchair travellers who want to learn about its history. Covering the full history of the Kokoda Trail, from its beginnings as an overland mail route to the fierce battles between the Australians and the Japanese that took place along its length during World War II, the book also includes important information on walking the trail yourself. From the steps you need to take to get ready to what to bring, Kokoda For Dummies is the definitive resource for anyone looking for a comprehensive overview of this significant landmark. * Focuses on walking the track as a pilgrimage and a history lesson for history buffs and hiking enthusiasts alike * Covers the health and safety concerns involved with walking the track, including a basic Kokoda itinerary * Contains eyewitness accounts of the Kokoda battles gleaned from interviews conducted with Australian and Japanese war veterans A comprehensive but accessible history of the Kokoda Trail and its significance to Australia, in one volume.

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Seitenzahl: 502

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2012

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Kokoda For Dummies®, Australian Edition

Table of Contents

Introduction
About This Book
Conventions Used in This Book
What You’re Not to Read
Foolish Assumptions
How This Book is Organised
Part I: The Essentials of Kokoda
Part II: Australians in Retreat
Part III: Fighting in the Jungle
Part IV: Chasing the Japanese Out of Papua
Part V: Walking the Kokoda Trail
Part VI: The Part of Tens
Icons Used in This Book
Where To Go From Here
Part I: The Essentials of Kokoda
Chapter 1: Understanding the Significance of the Kokoda Trail
Looking at the Track Before the War
Mining at Yodda
Posting the mail to Kokoda
Coming to Terms with the Military History of the Kokoda Trail
Saving Australia from invasion
Telling the story: History is made by the victors
Deciding Where the Track Tour Starts and Finishes
Starting from Owers’ Corner
Ending at Kokoda
Moving beyond the track to Buna, Gona and Sanananda
Including Milne Bay
Chapter 2: Reasons for Walking the Kokoda Trail
Honouring Heritage and Paying Homage
Remembering their deeds
Naming those to be honoured
Admiring Victoria Cross winners
Trekking in good company
Protecting Pilgrimage and Commemoration
Commonwealth War Graves Commission
Department of Veterans’ Affairs
Kokoda Initiative: The joint venture between the Papua New Guinean and Australian governments
Walking the Kokoda Trail Today
The physical challenge
Don’t walk alone: Touring with others
Is the original Kokoda Trail the same as today’s track?
Doing Kokoda the restful way
Chapter 3: Finding Places of Military Importance
Completing the First Part: Port Moresby to Owers’ Corner
Seven Mile Strip
Bomana Cemetery
Koitaki
On the road to Owers’ Corner
Walking the Second Part: Owers’ Corner to Kokoda
Imita Ridge — end of retreat and beginning of the Australian advance
Ioribaiwa Ridge
Menari
Menari to Efogi
Efogi to Myola
Templeton’s Crossing
Eora
Isurava
Kokoda
Covering the Third Part: The North Coast
Oivi–Gorari
Crossing the Kumusi River
Awala
Popondetta
Gona
Sanananda
Buna
Noting Japanese Memorials
Part II: Australians in Retreat
Chapter 4: The Pacific War: Setting the Scene
Warring in Europe
Oiling the Wheels of War
The War in the Pacific
Clashing at Pearl Harbor
Pounding the Philippines
Terrorising Malaya and Singapore
Going Dutch
Invading Timor, Rabaul and Ambon
Heading for mainland New Guinea
Battle of the Coral Sea
Altering the Naval Balance: Midway
Chapter 5: The Papuan Campaign: Spies, Port Moresby and Guadalcanal
Understanding What the Japanese Knew
Discovering information
Mining other sources of information
Eavesdropping on radio broadcasts
Explaining the Japanese and Allied Strategy
Controlling sea lanes
Choosing between aircraft carriers and airfields
Finding airfields in Papua
Appreciating Why Port Moresby Was Important
A storage and supply area
Location, location
Taking Aim at Port Moresby
Considering the Role of Guadalcanal
Sinking ships and shooting down aircraft
Changing Japanese plans
Connecting Guadalcanal and Kokoda
Chapter 6: Building Up Troops and Assembling the Armies
Mobilising Australians and Local Allies
Installing the militia
Arrival of the AIF (Australian Imperial Force)
Flying in the squadrons
Calling in the navy
Preparing the Papuans
Sending in the Americans
Enter: MacArthur
Training in Toowoomba: Yanks Down Under
Engineering victory
Engaging the Japanese Army
Drawing on experience gained in China
Counting up the Japanese
From Kyoto to Kokoda: Getting supplies to the Japanese on the track
The Emperor’s Navy
Fighting Advantages: Arming Each Side
Chapter 7: Making a Fighting Retreat: Kokoda and Deniki
Watching the Japanese Advance
Marching to Kokoda
Escaping from Oivi
Standing at Kokoda
Losing Kokoda: The death of Colonel Owen
Retaking Kokoda temporarily
Digging in at Deniki
Considering the Next Moves
Sending in the Australian Imperial Forces
Arrival of the Nankai Shitai
Counting Casualties up to Deniki
Chapter 8: Entering the Mountains
Standing at Isurava
Massing the forces
Describing the battlefield
Losing Isurava
Heading back to the rest house
Getting away from Isurava
Rearguards and Vanguards: Struggling for Possession
Entering Eora
Reaching Templeton’s Crossing
Making it to Myola Ridge
Being Blindsided at Efogi
Fighting back at Mission Ridge
Being defeated at Brigade Hill
Escaping to Menari
Losing the 2/27th Infantry Battalion
Sacking Brigadier Potts
Defending Ioribaiwa Ridge
Flanking the flankers
The brigadier blunders
Seeing the lights of Port Moresby
Part III: Fighting In the Jungle
Chapter 9: Understanding Jungle Warfare
Defining the Tactics of Jungle War
Moving in the jungle
Owning the track
Masters of camouflage
Getting lost in the dark
An infantryman’s war
Patrolling the Jungle
Using Weapons in the Jungle
Artillery
Machine guns
Mortars
Rifles
Grenades
Bayonet
Flying Over the Jungle
Bombing the Japanese
Interfering with Japanese supplies
Chapter 10: Feeling Hungry and Sick in the Jungle
Addressing Problems of Supply
Voluntary and conscripted labour
Sourcing beans and bullets
Playing airdrop roulette
Harnessing horses
Weathering the Wet
Getting the wounded out
Building bridges
Catching Tropical Diseases
Managing malaria
Running from dysentery
Infecting the enemy
Part IV: Chasing the Japanese Out of Papua
Chapter 11: Turning the Tide Against the Japanese
Defeating the Japanese For the First Time
Landing on the wrong beach
Failing to seize Allied airfields
Trouncing the Japanese
Advancing to Eora
Chasing the Japanese
Defeating the Stanley Detachment
Taking Templeton’s Crossing
Capturing Eora
Sacking the commander — again
Retaking Kokoda
Raising the flag and handing out medals
Flying in burgoo, bombs and bullets
Exploiting the Decisive Moment: The Battle of Oivi–Gorari
Failing against the Japanese guns
Outmanoeuvring for victory
Chasing the Japanese across the Kumusi River
The death of General Horii
Chapter 12: Besieging the Japanese
Advancing to the Sea
Bunkering: The Battle of the Beachhead
Gathering the combatants
First attempts fail
Casting about blame
Progressing Towards Victory, December 1942
Winning the air battle
Gona’s gone
On the central front
Buna busted
Winning the Battle of Buna–Gona, January 1943
‘Like an old time charge’
Sanananda snaps
Escaping towards Salamaua
Finishing off the war in Papua
Understanding What the Australians Did Next
Chapter 13: Defeating the Japanese Army: Why the Allies Won
Working Out What the Allied Victory in Papua Achieved
Understanding Why the Australians Won in Papua
The big battalions
The Battle at Guadalcanal
Bushido versus Bluey: Keeping up morale
Learning From the Battle of Kokoda
Moving and fighting
Eating and shooting
Keeping fit
Counting Casualties at Kokoda
Calculating Kokoda battle casualties
Evaluating the cost of victory
Part V: Walking the Kokoda Trail
Chapter 14: Preparing For the Big Walk
Checking Your Commitment
Evaluating Why You’re Trekking: History or Heart Rate
Searching for history
Pumping up your heart rate
Working Out Which Direction to Walk
Going Along the Track with Others
Choosing a trekking company
Carrying your own pack or hiring a porter
Getting along with others
Taking on training
Chapter 15: Packing Your Kit and Organising the Paperwork
Arranging Your Paperwork
Getting medical clearance
Checking your passport
Applying for a visa
Writing your will
Buying travel insurance
Sorting out malaria medication and other immunisations
Setting up a contingency plan
Listing the Equipment You Need
Packing general supplies
Bringing some basic medical goods
Choosing insect protection
Keeping energy levels high
Staying hydrated
Getting a good night’s sleep
Finding Something to Wear
Picking clothes for the walk
Caring for your feet
Sidestepping chafing
Taking Basic Sanitary Precautions
Being careful with food and water
Watching out for other insect-borne illnesses
Staying away from HIV
Chapter 16: Respecting the Locals and Keeping Yourself Safe
Climate Change — But Not the Global Type!
Taking Care of Practical Matters
Getting from the airport to your hotel
Changing money
Negotiating Immigration
Pleasing customs officials
Leaving the airport
Taking care of valuables
Celebrating before you start walking
Meeting the Locals
No mobile phone, no meetings, no stress
Smile and say hello
Being Sensible When You’re Not On the Track
Watching out for hazards
Going out alone and staying out late
Shopping around
Handling cash in public
Bringing home souvenirs
Travelling To and From the Track
Relating to the Papuans on the Track
Meeting your porters
Showing respect for your porters
Avoiding overloading your porters
Displaying Appropriate Behaviour On the Track
Part VI: The Part of Tens
Chapter 17: Ten Legends about the Kokoda Trail
The Japanese Weren’t Little
The Australians Were Outnumbered
The Japanese Thought a Road Over the Mountains Existed
The Australians Inflicted Huge Casualties on the Japanese
The Australians’ Fighting Retreat Saved Port Moresby
General Horii’s White Horse
United States Troops Were No Good at Buna
The Japanese at Buna Should’ve Been Left to Starve
The Papuans Willingly Fought with the Australians
Leeches, Crocs, Snakes and Spiders
Chapter 18: Ten Things to Look For On the Kokoda Trail
Australian 25-Pounder Field Gun, Owers’ Corner
The Golden Stairs
Japanese Trenches, Above Ofi Creek
Ammunition Dump, Myola 1
Crashed P-40 fighter, Myola 2
Stakes In the Ground, Brigade Hill and Templeton’s Crossing
Bede Tongs’s Plaque, Eora Creek
Japanese Mountain Gun Position, Eora Creek
Con’s Rock, Isurava Rest House
Crashed Japanese Plane, Isurava
Chapter 19: Ten Veteran Stories
Mal Bishop
Ryozo Kawate
Matt Power
Honda Minoru
Neil Russell
Hori Kameji
Paul Cullen
Bernie Lewis
Mrs Tsukamoto Yukiko
Allen Sullivan
Appendix
Sorting Out Wars, Campaigns and Battles
Working Out the Difference Between Actions and Engagements
Making Sense of Different Army Structures
Australian and American Armies
The Japanese Army
Learning Jargon

Kokoda For Dummies®, Australian Edition

by Dr Peter Williams

Kokoda For Dummies®, Australian Edition

Published byWiley Publishing Australia Pty Ltd42 McDougall Street Milton, Qld 4064

Copyright © 2012 Wiley Publishing Australia Pty Ltd

The moral rights of the author have been asserted.

National Library of Australia Cataloguing-in-Publication data:

Author: Williams, Peter

Title: Kokoda For Dummies / Peter Williams.

Edition: Australian ed.

ISBN: 9780730376996 (pbk.)

Notes: Includes index.

Subjects: World War, 1939–1945 — Campaigns — Papua New Guinea.

World War, 1939–1945 — Campaigns — Papua New Guinea — Kokoda.

World War, 1939–1945 — Participation, Australian.

World War, 1939–1945 — Participation, Japanese.

World War, 1939–1945 — Australia.

Kokoda Trail (Papua New Guinea) — History.

Kokoda Trail (Papua New Guinea) — Description and travel.

Dewey Number: 940.5426561

All rights reserved. No part of this book, including interior design, cover design and icons, may be reproduced or transmitted in any form, by any means (electronic, photocopying, recording or otherwise) without the prior written permission of the Publisher. Requests to the Publisher for permission should be addressed to the Contracts & Licensing section of John Wiley & Sons Australia, Ltd, 42 McDougall Street, Milton, Qld 4064, or email [email protected].

Cover image: © Australian War Memorial Archive, AWM 027081

Typeset by diacriTech, Chennai, India

Printed in China by Printplus Limited

10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

Limit of Liability/Disclaimer of Warranty: THE PUBLISHER AND THE AUTHOR MAKE NO REPRESENTATIONS OR WARRANTIES WITH RESPECT TO THE ACCURACY OR COMPLETENESS OF THE CONTENTS OF THIS WORK AND SPECIFICALLY DISCLAIM ALL WARRANTIES, INCLUDING WITHOUT LIMITATION, WARRANTIES OF FITNESS FOR A PARTICULAR PURPOSE. NO WARRANTY MAY BE CREATED OR EXTENDED BY SALES OR PROMOTIONAL MATERIALS. THE ADVICE AND STRATEGIES CONTAINED HEREIN MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR EVERY SITUATION. THIS WORK IS SOLD WITH THE UNDERSTANDING THAT THE PUBLISHER IS NOT ENGAGED IN RENDERING LEGAL, ACCOUNTING, OR OTHER PROFESSIONAL SERVICES. IF PROFESSIONAL ASSISTANCE IS REQUIRED, THE SERVICES OF A COMPETENT PROFESSIONAL PERSON SHOULD BE SOUGHT. NEITHER THE PUBLISHER NOR THE AUTHOR SHALL BE LIABLE FOR DAMAGES ARISING HEREFROM. THE FACT THAT AN ORGANISATION OR WEBSITE IS REFERRED TO IN THIS WORK AS A CITATION AND/OR A POTENTIAL SOURCE OF FURTHER INFORMATION DOES NOT MEAN THAT THE AUTHOR OR THE PUBLISHER ENDORSES THE INFORMATION THE ORGANISATION OR WEBSITE MAY PROVIDE OR RECOMMENDATIONS IT MAY MAKE. FURTHER, READERS SHOULD BE AWARE THAT INTERNET WEBSITES LISTED IN THIS WORK MAY HAVE CHANGED OR DISAPPEARED BETWEEN WHEN THIS WORK WAS WRITTEN AND WHEN IT IS READ.

Trademarks: Wiley, the Wiley logo, For Dummies, the Dummies Man logo, A Reference for the Rest of Us!, The Dummies Way, Making Everything Easier, dummies.com and related trade dress are trademarks or registered trademarks of John Wiley & Sons, Inc. and/or its affiliates in the United States and other countries, and may not be used without written permission. All other trademarks are the property of their respective owners. Wiley Publishing Australia Pty Ltd is not associated with any product or vendor mentioned in this book.

About the Author

Dr Peter Williams is the author of six books and websites on Australian military history including The Battle of Anzac Ridge 1915 (2006), Australia’s Involvement in the Korean War (2010) and The Kokoda Campaign 1942: Myth and Reality (2012). Before he became a military historian, Peter was a teacher of history and English in Australia and Japan. He lives in Canberra where he is a researcher for the Defence Honours and Awards Appeals Tribunal.

Dedication

I dedicate this book to my wife, Sammy, who, over the years, has become a reluctant expert on things Kokoda.

Author’s Acknowledgements

Without Gary Traynor, this book couldn’t have been completed. Gary guides tours to Australian battlefields at Gallipoli and in Papua New Guinea and has walked Kokoda ten times. Drawing on his experiences, he contributed Chapters 14, 15, 16 and 18.

Thank you also to my editor, Catherine Spedding, and the team at Wiley.

Publisher’s Acknowledgements

We’re proud of this book; please send us your comments through our online registration form located at http://dummies.custhelp.com.

Some of the people who helped bring this book to market include the following:

Acquisitions, Editorial and Media Development

Project Editor: Catherine Spedding

Acquisitions Editor: Rebecca Crisp

Editorial Manager: Hannah Bennett

Special Contributor: Gary Traynor

Production

Graphics: diacriTech

Cartoons: Glenn Lumsden

Proofreader: Charlotte Duff

Indexer: Don Jordan, Antipodes Indexing

The author and publisher would like to thank the following copyright holders, organisations and individuals for their permission to reproduce copyright material in this book:

• Pages 36 and 173: Australia in the War of 1939–1945. Series 1 — Army — Vol 5. South-West Pacific Area — First Year: Kokoda to Wau (1st edition, 1959) Author: Dudley McCarthy. Reproduced with permission of the Australian War Memorial.

• Pages 44, 47, 231, 251 and 274: Photos courtesy of the author. © Peter Williams.

• Page 181: By Arrangement with the Licensor, The David Campbell Estate c/-Curtis Brown (Aust) Pty Ltd.

Every effort has been made to trace the ownership of copyright material. Information that enables the publisher to rectify any error or omission in subsequent editions is welcome. In such cases, please contact the Permissions Section of John Wiley & Sons Australia, Ltd.

Introduction

Australians are fond of their military history, but this fondness wasn’t always so. When I was growing up in the 1960s, our wars — Vietnam was going on then — were rarely the subjects of television documentaries, movies and books as they are today. Now, websites are also devoted to warfare and new books appear every week. This is all very good news for authors and fans of military history.

The two campaigns Australians want to know most about are Gallipoli in 1915 and Kokoda in 1942. When I began writing military history, those were the two topics I decided to tackle first. I wanted to understand the nuts and bolts of strategy and tactics, battles and armies, how they’re supplied and what makes some soldiers stand and die while others run away. Early on I learned that to best understand a battle you have to visit the place where it was fought. What I share in this book is based on my experiences travelling to the battlefields in Papua New Guinea.

About This Book

Seven years ago I began studying the fighting on the Kokoda Trail. Kokoda For Dummies is a summary of what I’ve learnt so far, as well as a practical guide for those who are considering walking the track. Do walk the track. I’ve never met anyone who regretted it.

I talk about more than just the fighting on the track because understanding the other events in Papua in the six months Australians fought there is important. The final report of the Battles Nomenclature Committee in 1958 divided the war in Papua from July 1942 to January 1943 into three battles. The battle I focus on in Kokoda For Dummies is the Battle of Kokoda. The other battles I examine are the Battle of Milne Bay and the Battle of Buna–Gona, which was fought after Kokoda and saw the destruction of the Japanese force that had advanced along the track. In official jargon the fights along the track were not battles, they were called ‘actions’ or ‘engagements’. I call them battles though because everybody else does.

Some of the questions this book answers are:

Why did fighting occur along the track at all?

What were the Australians and Japanese trying to achieve?

How did the training and preparation of the armies affect the outcome of the battles?

What kinds of weapons did the armies have?

What was fighting in the mountainous jungle on the track really like?

How do I prepare to walk the track and what will I see there?

Conventions Used in This Book

In this book, I’ve used a number of conventions:

Armies use a lot of technical words, like battalion and battery or company and casualty clearing station, to describe their structure. They have another list of tricky words to describe what they do: Flanking the enemy, making a pinning attack, bombarding. You don’t need to know them all and I’ve used them only where necessary. Some of these technical words are explained in the Appendix.

Names are written in their correct order. Australian and American people put their family name (surname) last, Japanese names have the family name first.

I use the term Buna to describe the Japanese base in Papua. Buna is not strictly accurate because the Japanese base was spread over a large area and the centre was at Giruwa, near Buna. Buna itself was one of the less important parts of the base; however, Buna is a name a lot of Australians know so I’ve used it.

When I use the word Kokoda I’m talking about the track or the fighting in general. When I mean the village of Kokoda after which the fighting was named, I make that clear. I also use Kokoda Trail — the official term — or track, not Kokoda Track.

I use the terms used in 1942, when the north part of Papua New Guinea was called the Territory of New Guinea and the south part the Territory of Papua. If I use the term ‘New Guinea’, I am referring generally to the whole modern country.

What You’re Not to Read

The fighting in Papua was full of fascinating facts, stories and personalities that aren’t vital to following the main story of Kokoda. I’ve placed some of these stories in sidebars — the shaded boxes — where I also include excerpts from interviews with war veterans, both Australian and Japanese. You can skip the sidebars and not lose the thread, but I think they’re too good to miss out on.

Foolish Assumptions

Many books about Kokoda or some aspect of it have been published and more appear each day. Some are technical and hard to understand and some are simple. Working out which is which can be difficult. I assume you’ve picked up this book because

You plan to walk the track and you want to know if you should, what you will see and how to get ready.

You want an overview of Kokoda that answers the where, what, when, who and how kinds of questions.

You want a ready reference so you can look up a battle quickly.

You wish you knew more about Kokoda, so you can join in on conversations.

How This Book is Organised

This book is divided into six parts. I start by explaining the significance of the track and convincing you to walk the track if you haven’t already. Then I talk about the battles and the practical steps you have to take before the trip if you want to see the battle sites.

Part I: The Essentials of Kokoda

In this part, I tell you the basic information you need to make sense of the rest of the book. I explain why the track is significant, why you should go, what you will find and who has done it before you.

Part II: Australians in Retreat

Australia and its Allies did a lot of retreating in the first ten months after Japan invaded Asia and the Pacific in December 1942. Here I explain the plans and objectives of both sides, and what went right with the Japanese plan and what went wrong with the Allied plan. I talk about what the Allies did in the war in the Pacific before the Japanese arrived in Papua and how we came to be fighting there. Part II ends at the end of the Australian retreat, at Imita Ridge 40 kilometres from Port Moresby.

Part III: Fighting in the Jungle

Here I take a break from describing what happened and explain how war in the jungle is different from any other kind of warfare. I write about tactics and disease, supply and patrolling, and describe what the nitty gritty of jungle fighting was like.

Part IV: Chasing the Japanese Out of Papua

After Imita Ridge in September 1942, the Australians went on the attack. I examine the four months of the Australian advance, from when we began driving the Japanese back along the track to January 1943 when the Japanese force in Papua was finally destroyed at the Battle of Buna–Gona.

Part V: Walking the Kokoda Trail

This is the part that helps you decide if you’re going to walk the track. Walking the track isn’t easy and requires preparation. Here you learn about the practical stuff, how much training to do, what you should take with you and how to avoid illness.

Part VI: The Part of Tens

In this part, I explain the common myths about the fighting in Papua. If you’ve read a bit about the fighting, you may be surprised by some of these myths. I also list ten things to look out for along the track and include ten interesting stories from Australian and Japanese veterans. The part of tens is a great place to start reading if you want to see if you’ll like this book.

Icons Used in This Book

Icons are those little pictures in the left margin. The picture on each gives you a clue to the content. Here’s what they mean:

This icon shows where to go to find, or avoid, discussion about military strategy, tactics formation and doctrine.

This icon points you to interesting details that illuminate the story.

You may not want to read the technical details of organisation of equipment, especially if you’re pressed for time. You can skip over the technical stuff, but it’s difficult for me to imagine that many readers don’t want to know how many rounds a .303 Lee-Enfield rifle held in its magazine.

When I want to summarise the key points I’ve just made at length I use this icon to point out an easy-to-remember sentence or two that captures the essence of the key points.

This icon serves as a warning, telling you to avoid something that’s potentially harmful. Take heed!

This bulls-eye alerts you to on-target advice, insights or recommendations.

These highlight excerpts from interviews with Kokoda veterans that explain in their own words what being on the track was really like.

Where To Go From Here

You can go anywhere you like from here because I’ve written the book so each part or chapter makes sense without having to read the other parts. Consult the table of contents to see where you want to go next. If you just want to read about the fighting, go to Parts II to IV. If you want to begin training for the track right now, go to Part V.

Part I

The Essentials of Kokoda

Glenn Lumsden

‘I can’t believe my great-granddad did all this AND had people shooting at him as well.’

In this part . . .

When I first went to Papua New Guinea in 1980, I wanted to see the Australian battlefields of World War II. I recall considering going to Kokoda but it didn’t stand out in my mind. Instead I went to Buna, Lae, Shaggy Ridge, Finschhafen, Rabaul and Bougainville. Something has changed in 30 years because I can’t now imagine a tourist, who wants to see where famous battles were fought in Papua New Guinea, who wouldn’t have the Kokoda Trail at the top of the list.

In this part, I explore what has changed, what now gives that word ‘Kokoda’ a little magic, and why Kokoda is one of the best-known words in Australian military history. I explain why you should go to the track and what you’re likely to see when you do.

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!

Lesen Sie weiter in der vollständigen Ausgabe!