13,99 €
Mehr erfahren.
- Herausgeber: Crowood
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Leather is a strong and versatile material, which is highly suitable for handicrafts. Anyone can learn the techniques of leatherworking, and with some basic tools and a little patience can produce articles that are both aesthetically pleasing and practical. Topics covered: Advice on selection of tools and different types of leather; Step-by-step instruction on the techniques of cutting, bevelling, burnishing, hand-stitching, carving, stamping and thronging; Tips on how to avoid common pitfalls; A range of interesting projects; Explanatory line-drawings and photographs throughout.
Das E-Book können Sie in Legimi-Apps oder einer beliebigen App lesen, die das folgende Format unterstützen:
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2011
Ähnliche
Contents
Title Page
1 TOOLS AND MATERIALS
2 BASIC TECHNIQUES
3 PATTERN-MAKING AND DESIGN
4 HAND STITCHING AND SKIVING
5 BUILT-UP WORK
6 CARVING
7 STAMPING
8 THONGING
9 LIGHT LEATHER PROJECTS
10 HEAVY LEATHER PROJECTS
11 CARVED AND THONGED PROJECTS
Useful Addresses
Glossary
Copyright
1
TOOLS AND MATERIALS
To make straightforward items, and where time is of no account, only a few basic tools are required for leatherworking. While these can be obtained only from specialist suppliers, most firms offer mail-order services to long-distance customers. In addition to your basic range of tools you will need a fairly sturdy table set at a comfortable working height for either sitting or standing. Professional leather workers use a special (and expensive) purpose-built timber cutting board, but cutting can be done just as efficiently on a sheet of 9mm (⅜in) – or thicker – medium-density fibreboard (MDF) or a cheaper purpose-built cutting board; plywood is not such a good choice, as the knife blade’s tendency to follow the grain (beneath the cutting line) may cause inaccuracy. Those who enjoy carving and dyeing thick leathers will require stamps, carving tools and various dyes and sealers, but if you are interested only in making light leather goods, such as wallets, soft handbags, tool pouches, and so on, a more basic selection of tools will suffice. The wisest initial option is to buy the minimum number of tools and increase the range as and when required.
TOOLS LISTS
BASIC SELECTION
Awls
Awls comprise a handle and a blade, the blade being permanently fixed in the handle. There are two types: the scratchawl and the stitchingawl.
Fig1Basictools: (top) clam; (left) rulerandrawhidemallet; (right) sharpeningstrop; (middle – clockwise from top) thread, stepcreaser, adjustablecreaser, scratchawl, stitchingawl, curvedbladeforclickerknife, clickerknifewithstraightblade, prickingiron, skivingknife, dividers, edgebeveller, bonefolder, stitchinggroover, beeswax, revolvingpunch-pliers.
The scratchawl has a round blade that tapers to a sharp point, similar to the sharp woodworker’s bradawl, and it is used to stab location marks around leather pieces when cutting out and also as an aid when pattern-cutting. The stitchingawl has a diamond-shaped blade to pierce holes in leather so that the blunt needle can pass through. It is available as a wooden handle to which a separate blade is fitted by the user. Needles for leatherwork are not sharp, as they are not intended to pierce the leather, merely to enter a hole already made by the awl blade.
Bonefolder
This is a 15cm (6in) by 19mm (⅜in) piece of tapered polished bone that curves slightly at its centre. It is used for flattening seams, or for turning over and pressing down leather edges. It is extremely useful for applying pressure uniformly along a line and for flattening corners.
Clickerknife
The short, 100mm (4in), tapering, cylindrical wooden handle has an adjustable, screw-tight socket for the insertion and attachment of blades. Curved and straight blades are available, the curved ones being useful for cutting around curves. To ensure accurate and efficient cutting, the best way to hold this knife is as a drawing pencil is held. Blades are sharpened occasionally on an oilstone and frequently on the strop. SeeChapter 2 for correct usage.
Creasers
These have handles, curved shafts and blunt blades, and are used to make decorative crease-marks on leather grain (top surface) at a predetermined distance from the edge. There are three types: adjustable screw, single and step, each of which works in a slightly different way. Single and step creasers are heated before use to allow the blade to make an acceptably deep impression. An adjustable screw creaser can be used either heated or cold, for marking a non-permanent line at a measured distance from an edge, for instance when marking out a line of stitches.
Cutting-board
A sheet of thick (9mm/⅜in or thicker) MDF, or thick (12mm/½in minimum) plastic-covered blockboard/particle board. Also available are plastic cutting boards and, for professional use, timber cutting boards that are composed of square wooden blocks glued together so that the grain edge forms the cutting surface: the spongy surface of the timber’s end-grain does not blunt cutting tools (although blunting tools in use is not an issue unless much work is envisaged). Suitable sizes would be 915×457mm (36×18in) or 457×457mm (18×18in).
Dividers
These are adjustable double-pointed tools, similar to geometrical compasses. They are held as shown in Chapter 3 for marking guidelines a precise distance from an edge (when hand stitching, thonging and pattern-making).
Edge-finisher
A plastic wheel with a semicircular groove around its circumference for burnishing leather edges (seeChapter 2).
Hammer
This is used for flattening edges, turning seams, fitting metal fittings and attaching press-studs, and so on. A shoemaker’s hammer which has a flattened head is ideal, for these jobs, but unless much specialized work is envisaged an ordinary hammer is quite adequate. Seealso Rawhide hammer.
Harnessneedles
See stitching needles.
Lacingfid
Tool used in lacing (thonging), for making holes bigger by stretching, thus allowing easier entry for the thong needle (seeChapter 8).
Paringstone
A piece of soft stone, otherwise known as a litho-stone. It is useful when skiving (or paring, see below), because the stone’s surface does not blunt the knife’s edge when the two touch (which inevitably they will). Equally suitable is a thick piece of plate-glass or marble; not vital, but useful if much work is anticipated.
Pliers
These are used for pulling thonging needles through holes (occasionally) and for removing wrongly placed rivets, and so on. Long-nosed and snub-nosed types are both useful.
Prickingirons
Made of high-carbon steel, these are stamping tools for making marks on a leather surface in preparation for piercing holes for hand stitching. The tool is held at right angles to the work, and its shank is struck with a hide hammer in order to imprint a prescribed number of teeth to the inch (normally 8 or 10) onto the leather surface.
Punchpliers
These consist of six sizes of hole-cutters mounted on a revolving head. Sometimes holes for thonging are punched with these.
Punches
These are variously shaped steel tools, used for cutting out a particular shape from a piece of leather. The cutting part is fixed to a shank, and the shank is struck with a hammer so that the metal slices the leather in the manner of a biscuit-cutter. A crew punch cuts a long narrow slot, such as would be required when fitting a buckle to a belt. Other types of punch might give circular or oval holes, and some punches are shaped to produce a neat shape to the end of belts and straps.
Rawhidehammer
This hammer is essential for striking steel stamps and pricking irons. A metal hammer (such as a general DIY type) would damage steel stamping tools.
Saddler’sclam
Made from two curved pieces of ash, beech or oak, this provides a means of holding the work securely while hand stitching or thonging. The clam is normally held between the knees, and the work is repositioned between the leather-padded wooden jaws as it progresses. The curved pieces are bonded together in such a way as to spring the jaws shut, therefore gripping anything within them tightly.
Scissors
Upholstering scissors, approximately 20–23cm (8–9in) long, are necessary. Smaller general household-type scissors are perfectly adequate for cutting ancillary materials like silk or card, as well as for cutting some thinner leathers and rexine.
Skivingknife
Otherwise known as a paring knife, this is simply a flat piece of metal, angled at one end. The angled side is bevelled to a sharp edge that is kept razor-sharp and used for reducing the thickness of a piece of leather at its edge to facilitate making a fold, particularly in turned-over-edge work. Skiving knives are produced for right-or left-handed people, as the side on which the tool’s blade is set is specific to each.
Spiritlamp
This burns methylated spirit and is used for heating creasers. As an alternative, a general-purpose, gas-fired blowlamp is equally effective but, when using it in a confined area, care needs to be taken to ensure that it is firmly fixed in position so that it cannot fall over. For safety reasons, it must always be extinguished when not in actual use.
Steelruler
305mm (12in) long. This is mainly used for pattern-cutting. Make sure that the zero mark is placed at the end (most are).
Stitch-markingwheel
Also known as a pricking wheel, this comprises a frame into which exchangeable wheels can be fitted for marking stitch positions on leather according to the numbers of stitches per inch required. It is used as an alternative to pricking irons.
Stitchingneedles
These are blunt egg-eyed harness needles, normally size 4 for general purposes, threaded onto waxed linen thread, as shown in Chapter 4.
Thongingchisels
These have either one tapering, chisel-edged point, for punching singly around corners, or three or four points for continuous punching in straight lines. The chisel-end width is either 3mm (⅛in) or 1.5mm (1/16in). For more details of these and thonging needles (below), seeChapter 8.
Thongingneedles
With a diameter comparable to a small nail rather than to a needle, and even blunter than harness needles, these are designed to enter comparatively large, previously punched, holes. There are two types: one grips the leather thonging strip between two jaws, holding it fast by means of one or two angled spikes, while the other type requires the tapered, thinned leather to be screwed into a threaded entry-port, where a tiny metal thread grips the leather.
TOOLS FOR THICK LEATHER
Swivelknife
Small knife, with a replaceable blade, used in a very specific way when carving leather. Different types of blade are used for different applications (seeChapter 6).
Fig2Close-upofswivelknifewithoutbladetoshowadjustableyokeandeasy-griphandle.
Stamps
Steel tools comprising a 10cm (4in) shank and a head with a machined design on its surface. To be held horizontally and used for stamping designs on damp leather (seeChapter 7).
Fig3Close-upofheadsoffivestampingtools: (left to right) beveller, camouflagetool, backgrounder, veiner, ridgedpearshader.
Edgebeveller
Also known as an edge shave, this rounds off the edges of thick leathers prior to burnishing. It is available with either a flat or a concave hollow back (seeChapter 2).
Fig4Twotypesofmodeller(stylus): (top) pointandbevellerheads; (bottom) spoon-shapedheads.
Stylus
This tool is similar to a sculptor’s modelling tool, with a central barrel and an angled point at one end, and an angled flat face (spoon) at the other. As well as being useful for tracing designs from tracing paper onto damp leather, the pointed end is invaluable for inserting under a thonging loop to disassemble or loosen a thread. It is one of a range of tools used for moulding and shaping damp leather and for transferring designs from paper to leather before carving begins.
Rubberboard
The board is placed under the leather when stamping or carving so that hole-punches and knife edges are prevented from making contact with the table surface.
Stitchinggroover
This slices a channel along a leather surface, so as to allow stitches to be recessed below the grain’s top layer. The distance from the leather’s edge can be adjusted precisely.
Adjustablegouge
The gouge is useful for removing material to a specified depth: for instance when making a fold without skiving the total area of turnover.
Race
A grooving tool with a U-or V-shaped cutter.
Vice
A general woodworker’s vice can be useful.
TOOLS FOR SHARPENING
Oilstone
This is used for sharpening all cutting tools. Regular sharpening is necessary, and the stone must be periodically soaked in light oil, which is never removed.
Sharpeningstrop
This can be home-made from a piece of wood covered with leather (seebelow). The strop is frequently used to sharpen the clicker knife and skiving knife to keep them ultra-sharp, so that major sharpening sessions on the oilstone are required only occasionally.
Emerypaper
Fine-grade emery paper is required for sharpening edge bevellers, and for general sharpening of fine-edged tools.
Fig 5Awl, showingcorrectfittingof bladeandshapingof handle.
ASSEMBLING, MAKING AND SHARPENING TOOLS
FITTING AN AWL BLADE
There are two ways of fixing the diamond-shapedawl blade into the awl handle:
Hold the end of the blade in large pliers (covering the handgrips with a cloth); then heat the bottom inch of the blade to red-heat in a flame (from a gas-hob burner or blowlamp). While the metal is still hot, insert the end into the wooden handle; the hot steel will burn the soft timber and, as it cools, fixes it in place.The second method is to clamp the bottom inch of the blade between two coins or other pieces of metal in a woodworker’s vice. Then carefully tap the handle onto the blade.Whichever method is used, it is important that at least 20mm (¾in) – preferably 25mm (1in) – of the blade projects from the handle, and also that the blade is set in line with the handle and not slanting in either plane.
Fig6Stitchingawl, toshowflattenedareaofhandleinlinewithflatpartofdiamond-shapedblade.
MARKING THE AWL HANDLE
It is a good idea to flatten the part of the awl’s handle that coincides with the flat part of the blade. When hand stitching it is then possible to accurately judge the exact angle of the awl’s insertion simply by looking at the handle from above.
Clamp the handle in a vice, ensuring that the flattest (widest) part of the blade is uppermost, and in line with the top surface of the vice’s jaws. Then, using a plane or sharp woodworker’s chisel, sandpaper or a file, remove part of the circular wooden surface to create a flat plane.
Finally, polish each of the four facets of the blade on fine emery paper, finishing by rubbing on the strop.
MAKING A STROP
From 9mm (⅜in) – or thicker – MDF or plywood, cut a piece approximately 355×60mm(14×2⅜in).Mark 100mm (4in) from one end and round off the edges to form a handle. Shape a comfortable grip.Using clear contact adhesive, stick pieces of reasonably thick (2.5–3mm/3/16–⅛in) leather, grain side down, to each of the surfaces, as in the diagram. Cut the leather slightly oversize, and trim it to fit after fixing. (SeeChapter 2 for method of cutting leather.)Rub some fine grinding paste (available from car accessory shops) and oil into one side of the strop, and apply some jewellers’ rouge to the other. The rouged side is used for fine polishing (if required) after the tool has been stropped.SHARPENING THE CLICKER KNIFE
Regular sharpening of the clicker knife is vital as the blade quickly loses its edge in use. It should be sharpened on the oilstone occasionally and frequently on the strop. The bevel is on two sides of the blade, and the aim is to maintain this angle when removing metal by sharpening. Always useplenty ofoilwhen sharpening tools on astone. The purpose of the oil is to float away particles of metal, so never use the stone dry, and add oil when in use.
Fig7Constructionofthesharpeningstrop.
Fig8Clicker-knifeblade:correctshapeaftersharpening.
The correct shape of the straight-edged clicker-knife blade is as above. When the knife has been sharpened a number of times, the blade forms a sharp point at its apex. When this happens the knife is harder to use accurately, because the initial insertion point is not precisely discernible. It is then worth grinding away some metal (using suitable eye protection) so as to create a new angle. If a grinder is not available, grinding wheels can be obtained to fit electric drills, but care must be taken to secure the blade in a vice, and to wear eye protection. Otherwise, an ironmonger or blacksmith can do the job. Clicker-knife blades are made from hardened steel, and cannot be filed as softer, more pliable metals can.
Fig9Sharpeningtheskivingknifeonanoilstone.
SHARPENING THE SKIVING (PARING) KNIFE
The skiving knife is sharpened in a similar way to the clicker knife, except that there is a bevel on only one side of the metal: the other is completely flat, like a woodworker’s chisel. It is therefore sharpened from one side only, afterwards keeping the flat side perfectly flat against the strop or stone surface to remove the swarf. As with the clicker knife, sharpen the skiving knife frequently on the strop and only occasionally on the stone. It is worth making a protective case from thin leather to protect the delicate edge of this blade, and forming the habit of keeping it inside this case when it is not actually in use. The skiving-knife blade is supposed to culminate in a sharp point, so do not grind it back as with the clicker knife blade.
SHARPENING EDGE BEVELLERS
Flatbevellers
Rub the underside of the beveller on the oilstone to sharpen the blade, then remove the swarf of metal with a piece of emery paper drawn through the groove from the top.
Hollow-edgebevellers
Rub the underside of the tool on the side of a small oilstone.
AUXILIARY MATERIALS
The auxiliary materials used for leatherwork fall into three main categories: those that either support the structure of an item or line it, for example cardboard, silk or other kind of fabric; those that join leather pieces together, such as thread, adhesive, thong or metallic fixing devices; and finally dyes, and various kinds of preparation for leather finishes, as well as sundry items such as oil and emery paper (for tool sharpening).
ADHESIVES
These are used either to bond panels permanently, or, more often, to hold them temporarily until stitching or thonging can complete the job. Generally speaking, adhesives for leather can be used for wetstick (closed-assembly) bonding, when the adhesive is applied wet to one or both surfaces and the joint closed immediately, or for drystick (open-assembly) bonding, when the glue is applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry before fixing them together.
When assessing the suitability of an adhesive, the key factors are: elasticity, tenacity and penetration.
PVA(wetstick)
This is used when making small leather goods and handbags, for instance when gluing in linings for reinforcements, and so on. It can be applied by brush, and it is flexible and colourless when dry. Strong and fairly elastic, it has reasonable penetration. Buy a grade suitable for leatherwork, as some strengths of woodworking PVA may not be suitable. Although it is normally used wet, it can sometimes be helpful to allow the glue to dry slightly before assembly.
RubberSolution(drystick)
This is a thin rubber solution in a volatile solvent. It has no penetration. It is useful for turnovers; but it is hard to spread over large areas, and it is not to be used for cut-edged work as the adhesive will form an adhesive barrier which will prevent successful staining of the edges.
LatexAdhesive(drystick)
This is a latex solution with solvents, but it is non-flammable. It has good elasticity and penetration, and it is stronger than rubber solution. Good for leathers but unsuitable for fixing linings. It is one of the most useful adhesives of all, especially for turned-over-edge work.
Neoprene(drystick)
Neoprene is a brown viscous liquid. Strong, powerful and permanent, but messy to use.
Nitrile(drystick)
A clear, neat adhesive, sold in tubes, and convenient for bonding small areas or items quickly and permanently.
Fig10Methodoffixingtubularrivet.
THREAD
Best-quality linen thread is the most suitable for hand stitching. Thread size is determined by the number of stitches to the inch. Sizes available are: 18 (3-, 4-, 5-and 6-cord), 25 (3-cord), 30 (3-cord), 35 (3-cord) and 40 (3-cord). Reels come in 25g, 50g, or 250g, in black, brown, white and yellow. Beeswax is used to coat the thread before use (seeChapter 4).
Fig11Methodoffixingbifurcated, orsplitrivet.
THONGS
These are continuous strips of leather, sold in various lengths. Colours are: white, natural, tan, black, or medium or dark brown. Individual thongs are also available in short lengths, although not all widths are available in all colours. Vinyl lace is produced, which can be more suitable than genuine leather for certain projects. Sizes are flat (3mm/⅛in or 5mm/3/16in wide), and round (1.5mm/1/16in ranging up to 6mm/¼in wide).
Fig 12 Single part eyelet.
Fig13Single-parteyeletbeingfixedusingpliers-typetool.
METAL FASTENERS AND REINFORCERS
Rivets
Rivets are used for fixing heavy leather panels together, particularly at points of stress.
Tubular rivets comprise two cylindrical tubes, one fitting inside the other, both having a cap on one end, one of which is domed. A hole is punched in the leather panels to be joined, and the wider rivet inserted through both thicknesses. The slimmer one is inserted from the other side and the flat-sided rivet is placed on the lower part of the fixing tool (part A). Part B is struck with a metal-headed hammer until the soft metal of the slimmer tube is squeezed so that it expands, and forms a tight fit inside the outer tube.
Fig14Press-studs:methodsoffixingmaleandfemaleparts.
Bifurcated or split rivets As can be seen in the diagram, the two-pronged rivet is inserted into the pre-punched hole, the domed rivet head placed on top of the recess in the tool’s part A, then part B inserted between the rivet prongs and struck with a hammer; this causes the prongs to curl outwards, then bend over, thus gripping the material tightly.
Eyelets
Eyelets are for creating metal-reinforced holes in leather panels, such as might be required for lacing ports. Single-parteyelets are normally fixed using a special pliers-type tool, as shown. This punches a hole in the leather at the same time as fixing the eyelet in place. Two-part (sail) eyelets are fixed with the two-part hammer tool, as previously described for rivets. The central part (A) is inserted into a pre-punched hole from one side. From the other, part B is placed around the shank of part A.
Fig15Methodoffixingtwo-parteyelet.
Press-Studs
These are for making simple fastening flaps on purses or handbags, or as an alternative to buttons on clothing. Male and female parts of the stud (two parts for each) are fixed on their respective panels, using special fixing pliers or the hammer fixing tool, as shown.
Ringspringfasteners
These are similar to press-studs but larger, the male half having a hole in its centre.
Hooks, ClaspsandCorners
Swivel hooks are useful for attaching bag and satchel straps. The swivelling action prevents the strap from twisting in use. Heavy-dutysteel hooks are stronger than swivel hooks, but do not swivel. Clasps for handbags come in a range of types. Brass corners are attached to the corners of wallets and keycases to protect the leather from wear and tear. They are not purely decorative.
FINISHES, DYES AND TREATMENT PREPARATIONS
Generally speaking, the above are used only for vegetable-tanned leather: chrome-tanned leather is tanned in such a way as to prevent penetration of moisture, dye or wax finish (seeChapter 2). But the cut edge of chrome-tanned leather needs to be dyed, and a specialist edge dye product is available for this.
Dyes
Water-solubleandspirit-solubledyes both penetrate deeply into a leather surface and, because of this, do not affect the grain pattern. It is normally used to stain complete leather articles. The stained article is likely to turn out a darker hue than the colour of the dye.
Edgedye is specially formulated for dyeing the cut edges of leather and as a preparation for burnishing (seeChapter 2). Available in varying shades of brown and also black.
Acrylicdye is available in bright, lively colours, and does not penetrate the grain surface at all. It is intended for surface decoration only – when colouring different areas within a decorative, often carved, design on vegetable-tanned leather.
Treatments
For use with vegetable-tanned leather, these are sometimes required after carving and staining a project, and before applying a finish. Alternatively, they can be used to rejuvenate dried-out leather.
Oxalicacidsolution is sometimes required for removing stains from freshly carved or stamped leather. It should be diluted as instructed, and all safety warnings taken heed of, as it is a dangerous chemical (keep it away from children). It can be bought from chemist’s shops.
Saddlesoap is used for general cleaning, and also for removing residues of dye left on the leather’s surface. It is available as a solid in bars or tins, or as a liquid.
Neatsfootoil lubricates the fibres, softening and preserving leather.
Papergum of the brown type is mixed with water to be used for edge-burnishing (seeChapter 2), when the use of a dark-staining edge dye is inappropriate. There is also a clear edge-burnishing solution available, which fulfils the same purpose.
Finishes
Clear lacquer finish is for permanently sealing a surface. It has little penetration and should be applied very thinly.
Liquidwax penetrates grain to some extent, and most types are water-soluble. It is available in black, brown or neutral.
Antique polishes are used mainly to darken grain colour, while at the same time imbuing an attractive ‘antique’ appearance to an article. It tends to enhance the beauty of the grain and it buffs to a very attractive, deep shine. Available in several shades.
In addition to the above, there is a wide range of products for various specialist purposes. The manufacturers of these can give detailed information on their application and appropriate selection and uses.
LEATHER
There are four main sources of leather. These are the hides from calf, cow, kid and sheep. Calf, kid and sheep hides are normally sold as complete skins, whereas cowhide, being so much larger, is sold in ‘sides’: half the whole skin.
The grain side of leather is always the best, shiny or treated side that is to be seen, whereas the flesh-side of leather is always the underside, often fibrous and usually hidden from view.
CALF
Size 0.5–1.6sq. m (5–18sq. ft).
Structure Close, fibrous and even.
Grain Close, with a fine small break. No definitive pattern. Small bends can be made without causing cracking.
Feel Rubbery and resilient.
Colour Uniform; good dye absorption.
Surface defects Tick, warble fly, wire scratches, brands.
COW
Cowhide is sold as a full hide or half hide (side). The skin can be subdivided further:
Butt The best part of the hide.
Shoulder Not quite such high quality as butt, but it is less expensive and gives good results. Slightly more uneven fibre than butt.
Back The butt area plus the shoulder.
Side The complete side.
Belly This has a loose structure and stretches. It is not suitable for many projects because of this.
Full grain means the best quality, the hide not having been buffed by machine to take away various marks and scratches. Although this buffing process improves the leather’s appearance, it also dulls and flattens the surface and may cause difficulties with dyeing. Only full grain hide is suitable for carving.
Russet
This is natural (un-dyed) cowhide.
Size 1–3.25sq. m (11–35sq. ft).
Structure Strong, fibrous. Looser in the belly than in the butt.
Feel Coarse and heavy.
Grain Similar to calf, but coarser.
Thickness 1.5–3.5mm (1/16–⅛in). Thicker at the butt than at the belly.
Colour Varies. Lighter at butt than at belly.
Surface defects Ticks, warble fly, wire scratches, brand marks.
Fig16Divisionsofcowhide.
KID
Size 0.14–0.3sq. m (1½–3½sq. ft).
Structure Not as dense as calf. Strong.
Grain Tight grain.
Thickness 0.3–0.8mm (1/64–1/32in).
Feel Papery, like thin wallpaper.
Colour Little variation.
Surface defects Few.
SHEEP
Wool-hair sheep. Persian is the best known.
Size 0.18–0.83sq. m (2–9 sq. ft).
Structure Loose and fibrous.
Grain Loose; similar to goatskin but coarser.
Substance Light to medium.
Feel Soft; little resistance.
Colour Even. Good dye absorption.
Surface defects Brands, wire scratches, ticks.
Skiver is the very thin top layer of sheepskin, used for bookbinding and similar crafts. It tears easily. Knappa is good-quality skiver. Suede is the flesh-side of sheep skin.
One other type of leather that you may come across is pigskin, which is of a very good quality and has a distinctive grain. It is also strong and hard wearing. Rexine is a kind of ‘imitation leather’ made from plastic; it is very thin, tough and hard wearing.
