Mid-century Woodworking E-Book

A.W.P. Kettless

• Herausgeber: Batsford
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 249

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Beschreibung

Make your own beautiful mid-century wooden objects for the home. With over 80 projects, from the simple to the advanced, this is the perfect book to progress your woodworking skills and create something beautiful for your home. These sought-after classic designs from the 1950s and 60s include a range of items for home and garden, simple display shelves, bookends and a tray to a chest of drawers and a desk.  Every project includes a clear pattern and diagrams, detailed step-by-step instructions and  illustrations of the finished pieces. The projects are arranged by level of difficulty as you go through the book; some suit those fairly new to woodworking and some work best for more experienced hands. Packed with useful tips and hints, and featuring spotlights on individual techniques within every chapter, this book is perfect not just as a project book but as a way to build up your knowledge. No complicated equipment is needed and all projects can be made at home.  So whether you want the iconic curves of a mid-century coffee table, the warmth of walnut wood in a cabinet or the clean lines in an easy chair, this book has it all.  

Leseprobe

Contents

Preface

Basic Kit of Tools

Pencil Holder

Chisel Rack

Spade Cleaner

Pen Rest

Plant Stand

Toast Rack

Table Mat Stand

Letter Rack

Teapot Stand

Display Shelves

Individual Supper Tray

Cheese Platter

Book Ends

Candle Holder

Circular Candle Holders

Table Lamp

Stand for Needlework Bag

Tray

Nail and Screw Box

Box for Fishing Tackle

Book Trough

Sharpening

Wood Finishing

A Bathroom Stool

A Small Table

Book Ends

Shoe Brush Box

Folding Table

Small Box

Second Small Box

Coffee Table

Bedside Table

Bookcase

Workbox

Occasional Table

Small Workbox Table

Shaped Woodware

Serving Tongs

Salad Servers

Small Garden Chair

Tiled Table

Small Coffee Table

Tea Trolley

Wall Writing Cabinet

Bureau Bookcase

Small Tiled Tray

Cabinet Construction

Dressing and Writing Table Compactum

Student’s Desk and Drawing Table

Linen Chest

Casket

Small Bookcase with Drawers

Hall Seat

Side Table

Drawer Construction

Dining Chair

Dining Chair

Easy Chair

Wall Fitment

Wood Turning

Veneering

Laminating and Bent Woodwork

Laminated Candleholder

Bracket for Wall Light

Elliptical Tray

Table with Laminated Legs

Fitting Hinges and Locks

Workshop-made Tools and Appliances

Slatted Garden Table

Plant Stand

Wood Form or Bench

Gallows Bracket Table

Garden Gate

Household Steps

Cabinet with Table Flap

A Small Workshop

Ledged, Braced and Battened Door

Window Frame and Casement Sashes

Pattern-making and Casting

Shelf Bracket

Drawer or Door Handle

Door Knocker

Boat Hook

Splicing and Scarf (Scarph) Jointing

Canoe Paddles

Spar or Mast Making

Boatbuilding

Boatbuilding Methods

Setting up a Boat

Index

Preface to the1963 edition

This book has been written with the hope that it will be of some assistance to craft teachers, craftsmen, students and all others interested in the craft of woodworking; to encourage a good standard of design and craftsmanship and inculcate a love for that unique and satisfying material – wood.

The designs have been arranged, as far as possible, progressively. They cater for the development of fundamental tool operations and woodworking techniques, and where it is felt to be necessary full constructional details are given. In the early stages the actual making of something tangible and knowledge of the materials and processes involved in its production is of great value to the development of the student. The drawings are intended to give adequate information for use in design and drawing classes.

The designs should be used as the basis from which an infinite variety of work can be produced, and students should be encouraged to adopt their own innovations. The book contains information on a wide variety of woodworking subjects, including cabinet and chair making, carpentry and joinery, pattern making and boatbuilding. Carving, veneering, laminating, steam bending, and the use of recently developed materials are dealt with where the need arises.

If this book helps all those concerned with woodwork, whether as established craftsmen, or learners in schools and colleges, to use wood to its fullest capacity, the work which has gone into its preparation will have been well worth while.

My sincere thanks are due to Mr E. F. Marshall, Principal of Shoreditch Training College, for facilities made available. To Mr R. A. Williams, Deputy Principal and Head of the Craft Department, for advice kindly given. I am also indebted to my colleague Mr W. E. Sawdy, Principal Lecturer, who gave generously of his time and experience in the reading of the manuscript, for which I am most grateful.

Alonzo W. P. Kettless

Surrey, 1963

Basic Kit of Tools

Saws

Cross-cut saw, 660mm (26in), 8–9 points

Tenon saw, 350mm (14in), 14 points

Dovetail saw, 200mm (8in), 18–22 points

Coping saw

Planes

Jack plane (wood), 57mm (2¼in) cutter

Smoothing plane (metal), 60mm (2³⁄₈in) cutter

Jack plane (metal), 375mm (15in), 60mm (2³⁄₈in) cutter

Rebate plane (metal, with adjustable fence)

Spokeshave, flat 54mm (2¹⁄₈in)

Spokeshave, round 54mm (2¹⁄₈in)

Wood file, 200mm (8in)

Wood rasp, 200mm (8in)

2 Cabinet scrapers 125mm (5in), one for shaped work

Cork rubber

Marking and Testing Tools

Folding rule, 600mm (24in)

Steel rule, 300mm (12in)

Marking knife

Marking gauge

Mortise gauge

Cutting gauge

Try square, 150mm (6in)

Combination square, 300mm (12in)

Winding strips

Sliding bevel

Tools for Boring

Brace 200mm (8in) sweep

Twist bits, 6.5mm (¼in), 8.0mm (₅⁄₁₆in), 9.5mm (⅜in), 12.5mm (½in), 16.0mm (⅝in)

Shell bits, 3mm (⅛in), 4mm/5mm (³⁄₁₆in)

Drills, twist, 1.6mm–6.5mm (¹⁄₁₆in–¼in)

Countersinks, rosehead and snailhead, 13mm (½in)

Bradawl

Wheelbrace

Chisels

Firmer, 3mm (¹⁄₈in), 6mm (¼in), 13mm (½in), 25mm (1in)

Bevelled edge firmer, 6mm (¼in), 10mm (³⁄₈in), 20mm (¾in), 32mm (1¼in)

Sash mortise chisels, 6mm (¼in), 8mm (₅⁄₁₆in)

Gouge, 13mm (½in) firmer

Gouge, 6mm (¼in) scribing

Sharpening Accessories

Oilstone, fine, 200mm × 50mm × 25mm (8in × 2in × 1in) in box

Oilstone, medium, 200mm × 50mm × 25mm (8in × 2in × 1in) in box

Oilstone slip, 100mm (4in)

Oilcan

1 piece of leather, 200mm × 50mm (8in × 2in)

Miscellaneous

Mallet

Hammer, Warrington, 225g (8 oz)

Hammer, pattern makers, 75g (3 oz)

Pincers, 200mm (8in)

Screwdriver, cabinet pattern, 200mm (8in)

Screwdriver, ratchet, 125mm (5in)

Nail punches, 1 small

Nail punches, 1 medium

‘G’ cramps, 2

Thumb screws, 6

Raw linseed oil

White polish

Tools not included in Basic Kit are specified after the cutting list in each job.

Note: sizes given in designs on pages 10–90 are for timber as sawn, with an allowance of 3mm (¹⁄₈in) in width and thickness for planing. From page 91 onwards, all sizes given in the cutting lists, unless otherwise stated, are finished sizes.

Pencil Holder

This gives practice in planing, use of testing and marking out tools, sawing, chiselling, and the boring of holes to a given depth; making and using a thumb gauge; working of a simple chamfer. It encourages an appreciation of the properties of wood and the problems involved in its working, and aids familiarity with important and fundamental terms such as face side and face edge.

Method

1 Planing face side. Select best side of material, and plane flat, using a jack plane for this operation. Make frequent tests with a straight edge and parallel or winding strips. Apply face side mark when true.

2 Select best edge, place wood in vice and plane edges square with face side. Make frequent tests with straight edge and try square, apply face edge mark when true.

3 Gauging width: set marking gauge to 40mm (1½in) and gauge the width from the face edge. Remove waste with jack plane.

4 Gauging thickness: set marking gauge to thickness 20mm (¾in) and gauge the thickness all round from the face side. Remove the waste with jack plane. A sharp pencil run down the gauge line often makes it easier to see.

5 Marking out: using a marking knife and try square, mark out length of stand leaving about 13mm (½in) waste at each end. The diagram shows method of marking out and finding centres of holes. With brace and an 8mm (₅⁄₁₆in) twist bit bore the holes, maintaining the bit in an upright position. Cut material to length. Make thumb gauge and mark out chamfer as shown in isometric view. Work chamfer on sides with a smoothing plane. With a 25mm (1in) chisel and using a shearing action make end chamfers.

6 Clean up with a smoothing plane.

7 Finish: white polish, lightly applied with a rag.

Material

Selected pine, 300mm × 50mm × 25mm (12in × 2in × 1in).

These sizes allow for practice in planing techniques.

Chisel Rack

This is a further planing, marking out, sawing and grooving exercise; also an introduction to plywood, glue, panel pins and wood finishing, and the use of wood drills and countersink. The rack is designed to hold a 6mm (¼in) sash mortise chisel and 6mm, 13mm, 20mm and 25mm (¼in, ½in, ¾in and 1in) bevelled edge firmer chisels.

Method

1 Plane material to dimensions as given in drawing.

2 Mark out length of rack and position of grooves with a marking knife, and use a pencil on the edges of the work. Gauge depth of grooves marking only the spaces to be removed. With thumb gauge and pencil mark the chamfers.

3 Cut grooves with dovetail saw, making sure the saw kerf is in the waste, and stops at the gauge line. Place work in vice and remove waste, making the bottom of the grooves flat and taking care not to chisel below the line.

4 Work chamfers as in previous job.

5 Mark out plywood back and cut to size with a dovetail saw. Plane the edges with a smoothing plane, shape corners with coping saw and finish with a wood file. Drill and countersink for holes as shown. Using a cork rubber and a piece of No 1½ glasspaper clean up plywood back. Clean up rack with smoothing plane.

6 Carefully apply glue to back and rack, and fix with eight 16mm (₅⁄₈in) panel pins. Clean off surplus glue with a clean damp cloth. When dry, glasspaper lightly.

7 Finish: brush on a thin coat of white polish.

Material

Selected pine, 250mm × 50mm × 25mm (10in × 2in × 1in),plywood, 290mm × 63mm × 4mm (11½in × 2½in × ³⁄₁₆in).

Spade Cleaner

This article will give further practice in planing techniques, marking out, boring holes, and an introduction to horizontal and vertical paring.

Method

1 Plane material to width and thickness as given in drawing.

2 Mark out length with marking knife and using, preferably, an ‘H’ pencil mark out on the face side all the lines and centres as shown in the plan. Mark edge as shown in the elevation, thus completing the marking out except for the 4mm (³⁄₁₆in) at bevelled end. This is marked out with thumb gauge after sawing off to cut line.

3 Place width of material in the vice, and using a large chisel with a shearing action, make the end bevel.

4 Place the thickness of the material in the vice, and make a saw kerf nearly 10mm (³⁄₈in) deep to locate the intersecting surfaces (see plan) for horizontal paring: chisel from each side until the bottom of the saw kerf is reached, repeat on the other side.

5 Bore hole.

6 Saw off waste at end. Vertical paring: chisel the semicircular end.

7 Clean up with smoothing plane.

8 Finish: brush on a thin coat of clear varnish.

Material

Selected pine, 200mm × 50mm × 20mm (12in × 2in × ¾in).

Pen Rest

This pen rest involves further exercises in planing techniques, marking out, boring of holes, vertical paring. It gives an introduction to the housing joint, and use of the shooting board when planing end grain.

Method

1 Prepare material to given sizes.

2 Using a marking knife set out length of base and position of rests, and gauge 3mm (¹⁄₈in) for depth of housing. A pictorial view of a housing joint is shown on page 23.

3 Cut grooves keeping saw kerfs in the waste, and remove waste with a 10mm (³⁄₈in) chisel; make bottom of grooves flat and saw base to length.

4 Chisel quadrant shape at ends and with the aid of a shooting board plane ends to cut lines. Work chamfers, using a flat-bottom spokeshave for shaped ends.

5 Mark out rests, bore holes and shape ends.

6 Fit, clean up and assemble rests.

7 Clean up base and glue rests in position.

8 Finish: brush one coat of polish. When dry, lightly rub down with fine glasspaper, and wax.

Material

Selected pine or abura.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

base

200mm (8in)

82mm (3¼in)

20mm (¾in)

rests

175mm (7in)

23mm (₇⁄₈in)

20mm (¾in)

Plant Stand

The plant stand gives further practice in planing techniques – including use of the shooting board – sawing, chiselling, use of the round and flat bottom spokeshaves, router, and coping saw. The design incorporates a simple through-housing joint (see pictorial view) and gives an opportunity for accurate marking out and working to given dimensions.

Method

1 Prepare material to given sizes.

2 Mark out ends in pairs, in one length, and cut grooves, finishing to gauge lines with router.

3 Complete as much as possible of the shaping before separating ends.

4 Mark out shelf, cut and shoot ends, bevel the sides, and fit shelf. Round the corners as shown in drawing.

5 Cut plywood edgings to length and shape.

6 Clean up and chamfer finger grip with round bottom spokeshave and prepare ends, shelf and edging for gluing up.

7 Fix ply edging to shelf using glue and 16mm (₅⁄₈in) panel pins, punch heads below the surface.

8 Fix shelf to ends with glue and 25mm (1in) panel pins. Test to ensure that the ends are square with shelf.

9 Finish: hard gloss paint, to suit colour scheme. Give stand one priming coat, stop up all holes, rub down and finish with hard gloss paint.

Material

Selected pine.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

base

325mm (1ft 1in)

140mm (5½in)

16mm (₅⁄₈in)

ends

300mm (1ft)

120mm (4¾in)

16mm (₅⁄₈in)

2 plywood edgings

275mm (11in)

35mm (1³⁄₈in)

5mm (³⁄₁₆in)

Toast Rack

This toast rack gives further experience in the use of plywood and its working qualities; also an introduction to the stopped housing joint and the technique of polishing surfaces before gluing up.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out base and cut grooves, finish to depth with router.

3 Mark out divisions and handle, as given in drawing. Use a 20mm (¾in) centre-bit to bore hole in handle. With a dovetail saw carefully cut to size. Finish radius with wood file, and soften all edges with glasspaper.

4 Fit all parts into position testing for upright.

5 Bevel and chamfer base and clean up for polishing.

6 Mask all joints to protect gluing surfaces, and lightly polish base and divisions.

7 Glue up, taking care to remove surplus glue.

8 When dry lightly rub down with flour glasspaper, to give a matt finish.

Material

Sycamore with mahogany plywood divisions.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

base

163mm (6½in)

82mm (3¼in)

16mm (₅⁄₈in)

divisions

350mm (1ft 2in)

75mm (3in)

6mm (¼in)

Table Mat Stand

The making of this stand gives an opportunity for individual design, the development of a sense of proportion and form and the use of new materials and contrasting woods.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out base and spokeshave to given shape. For alternative base with 6mm (¼in) radius at corners, remove waste – saw kerf down to a gauge line – with a 25mm (1in) chisel and clean up ends of recess with a 6mm (¼in) scribing gouge.

3 Cut base to length and bevel ends.

4 Mark out plywood, using the base to give shape at bottom, cut to shape with coping and dovetail saws. Plane edges and soften with glasspaper wrapped round a cork rubber. Use a flat-bottom spokeshave for shaped top, and a wood file for bottom shaping.

5 Screw on sides to base and test for alignment. Remove screws, clean up all surfaces, and prepare for polishing, masking all joints as necessary.

6 Polish base and inner surfaces of sides.

7 Glue up and replace screws, file to clean flush surface, and complete polishing.

Material

Abura or sycamore, with mahogany plywood side pieces.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

1 base

150mm (6in)

45mm (1¾n)

20mm (¾in)

2 side pieces

125mm (5in)

90mm (3½in)

4mm (³⁄₁₆in)

Table-mat sizes to suit own requirements.

Suggested Material

Plywood or plastic-faced hardboard.

Letter Rack

This letter rack gives scope for individual design, and an introduction to the use of the plough.

Method

1 Prepare base, and mark out length and position of plough grooves. Note alternative treatment at base – stopped grooves.

2 To plough grooves, fix base in sash cramp, place in vice, and plough grooves 6mm (¼in) deep, check with divisions for correct size.

3 Cut plywood divisions to shape, clean up and fit into base.

4 Work chamfers on base and clean up.

5 Mask all joints, and complete polishing.

6 Carefully glue in divisions.

Material

Sycamore, 150mm × 70mm × 20mm (6in × 2¾in × ¾in), for base; divisions of 4mm (³⁄₁₆in) plywood to given dimensions or to suit individual requirements.

Teapot Stand

The main feature of this teapot stand could well be a decorated or plain tile, with a suitable contrasting wood. It incorporates the angle halving joint, and gives excellent practice in setting out.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Set out angle halving joints as shown in drawing, noting position of face side and face edge marks. All the gauging for this joint is done from the face side.

3 With a dovetail saw cut all the joints, leaving the shoulders until last.

4 Assemble frame, adjust as necessary, and screw together dry with 13mm (½in or No 4) countersunk screws. Remove screws, apply glue to joints and reassemble.

5 Flush all joints with smoothing plane. Pin and glue on plywood base.

6 Flush plywood with edge of frame, and check size with tile.

7 Work chamfer on moulding, cramp and glue to frame as shown in drawing. Note alternative moulding.

8 Round the corners with flat-bottom spokeshave.

9 Clean up job and polish.

10 Cement or glue tile in place.

11 Cut out four baize discs 20mm (¾in) diameter and glue to bottom.

Material

Selected pine, with sycamore or African walnut moulding.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

2 for frame

225mm (9in)

23mm (₇⁄₈in)

20mm (¾in)

1 base plywood

106mm (4¼in)

106mm (4¼in)

3mm (¹⁄₈in)

2 base mouldings

275mm (11in)

25mm (1in)

13mm (½in)

tile

100mm (4in)

100mm (4in)

4mm–6mm (³⁄₁₆in–¼in)

Display Shelves

A useful and simple form of shelving, incorporating the cross halving, tee halving, and mortise-and-tenon joints. It gives further opportunity for practice in setting out, shaping and finishing. It provides an introduction to tenon proportions, use of the mortise gauge and mortise chisel. The shelving could easily be extended in length, width and depth, by increasing the number of shelf supports, and re-positioning as required. It should be fixed to the wall with mirror plates, or screw-through uprights.

Method

1 Prepare material to dimensions shown.

2 Set out for halving joints on back frame and mark out position of mortises to take supports (see diagrams) and set mortise gauge to 8mm (₅⁄₁₆in), gauge mortises in rails and tenons at end of supports.

3 Cut and fit all halving joints, and cut mortises in rails.

4 Clean all inner edges of frame, glue the joints, screwing from the back, and flush all surfaces.

5 Shape supports, fit and glue into position. Test for squareness.

6 Fit plywood shelves to framing, cut to length, round corners, clean up.

7 Arrange for two 16mm (₅⁄₈in or No 6) countersunk screws in supports and four 16mm (₅⁄₈in or No 6) countersunk screws along back edging. Glue and screw into place.

8 Finish: painted, colour as required.

Material

Selected pine.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

2 top and bottom rails

400mm (1ft 4in)

28mm (1¹⁄₈in)

23mm (₇⁄₈in)

1 upright (to cut 2)

375mm (1ft 3in)

28mm (1¹⁄₈in)

23mm (₇⁄₈in)

1 support (to cut 2)

200mm (8in)

28mm (1¹⁄₈in)

28mm (1¹⁄₈in)

2 shelves plywood

390mm (1ft 3½in)

103mm (4¹⁄₈in)

6mm (¼in)

Individual Supper Tray

This tray is specially suitable for serving light refreshments. Contrasting woods are suggested, oak for the tray bottom, walnut for the sides and handles. As an alternative, decorated plastic surfaced plywood 6mm (¼in) thick would add a distinctive touch. The tray gives further practice in shaping, use of screws, cleaning up and using a cabinet scraper, use of cramps and gluing up.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out bottom, shoot ends and round corners.

3 Bevel handles as shown in detail, keeping material in one length for this operation, cut to size, cleaning up end grain with a block plane. To facilitate construction the handle could be partly shaped, glued and screwed into position, then by cramping the tray to bench, remove the waste as shown by dotted lines in detail drawing.

4 Bevel sides and shape ends.

5 Prepare work for polishing, masking all joints. Complete polishing except for outer surfaces of the sides.

6 Cramp and glue sides to bottom, leave to dry.

7 Make 4mm (³⁄₁₆in) diameter pins, drill 4mm (³⁄₁₆in) diameter holes in sides, glue and drive pins in, flush off and complete polishing.

Material

Quartered oak for bottom (or 6mm [¼in] plastic-faced ply or hardboard);sides and handles in walnut.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Width

Thickness

1 bottom

400mm (1ft 4in)

182mm (7¼in)

13mm (½in)

2 sides

300mm (1ft)

25mm (1in)

10mm (³⁄₈in)

handles (to cut 2)

250mm (10in)

40mm (1½in)

23mm (₇⁄₈in)

Cheese Platter

A useful article for the host or hostess, this platter gives additional practice in planing, marking out, shaping, and working in hardwood.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out platter, cut to shape and clean up.

3 Mark out side view of handle and cut to shape using coping or bow saws, finish to line with flat- and round-bottom spokeshaves.

4 Taper handle as shown in plan, and clean up for polishing.

5 Bore holes in platter, countersink, and screw on handle.

6 Remove handle and polish same.

7 Work chamfers on platter, clean up, glue and screw handle in position.

8 Wipe platter over with olive oil and rub well in.

Material

Sycamore or beech, 325mm × 156mm × 13mm (1ft 1in × 6¼in × ½in);

handle in sycamore, 150mm × 40mm × 28mm (6in × 1½in × 1¹⁄₈in).

Book Ends

The making of these book ends will help beginners to develop a sense of shape, encourage free expression, and give further experience in the use of wood rasps, files, and glasspaper, and the working qualities of various woods.

Method

For design as shown in isometric view

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out, cut ends to length and plane end grain.

3 Cut metal base to shape and form dovetail, drill holes, and clean up.

4 Place metal base on end and mark out dovetail, set gauge to thickness of metal and remove waste (see drawing).

5 Mark out on edge, the tapering as shown in drawing, and remove waste with a smoothing plane.

6 Complete marking out, including chamfers, and round corners.

7 Work chamfers, and clean up for polishing.

8 Lightly polish, cut down with flour glasspaper and finish with wax.

For free shaping of ends in beech or elm

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out, cut and shoot base of end only.

3 Cut and fit metal base.

4 Mark out free shape on end, cut aperture, and work shape, using spokeshaves, wood rasps, files and glasspaper.

5 Finish: as above.

Note: in shaped work difficulty is often experienced with the holding or fixing of this type of work to the bench or in the vice. This can be overcome by allowing about 50mm (2in) extra in length for cramping or holding in vice – see dotted outline in drawing.

Material

Oak for a pair, 275mm × 103mm × 25mm (11in × 4¹⁄₈in × 1in);

beech or elm for free-shape designs, 275mm × 110mm × 25mm (11in × 4³⁄₈in × 1in) and 280mm × 103mm × 25mm (11in × 4¹⁄₈in × 1in);

metal base, 18 s.w.g. aluminium to cut two pieces, 200mm × 95mm (8in × 3¾in).

Candle Holder

Designed to hold tall candles, this elegant-looking holder provides good practice in accurate marking out and plane control.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out on face side and fix centres for holes.

3 Bore holes with a 11mm (₇⁄₁₆in) twist bit (use a gauge to control depth), taking care to keep the bit upright.

4 Cut to length and plane to shape as given in plan.

5 Mark out slope on edges and plane to shape.

6 Using a thumb gauge mark out, and work chamfers.

7 Clean up and prepare for polishing.

8 Glue baize on bottom.

Material

Oak, 200mm × 53mm × 25mm (8in × 2¹⁄₈in × 1in).

Circular Candle Holders

The three shaped, single-candle holders can be arranged in a variety of ways, one of which is shown in diagram A, and afford excellent table decoration. The exercise introduces the marking out and making of a template, and gives further practice in shaped work.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Make a cardboard template of one section to dimensions as given in drawings, and locate hole.

3 Using template mark out three sections on the material and bore holes.

4 Bow saw to shape and clean up.

5 Cut to length and plane end grain. Round corners using a wood file for this operation.

6 Work chamfers, clean up for polishing, and polish.

7 Glue baize on bottom.

Material

Mild working mahogany, 375mm × 56mm × 23mm (1ft 3in × 2¼in × ₇⁄₈in).

Table Lamp

The making of this table lamp gives practice in shooting a joint, use of the plough, cutting mortise-and-tenon joints, setting out of the octagon, shaping and gluing up.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Using a steel jack or trying plane shoot – make straight – the surfaces to be jointed for the column, and plough grooves for flex.

3 Glue and cramp up column, push a small piece of rag through groove in column to clean out surplus glue.

4 Mark out base, noting direction of grain.

5 To cut mortise in base, remove the majority of the waste by boring a 20mm (¾in) hole in centre and clean up to lines with a firmer chisel.

6 Round corners of base and complete shapings.

7 Mark out column, cut tenon and fit into base.

8 Make profile on square section and set out octagons (for construction see here) and work chamfers on column.

9 Bore hole in edge of base for flex.

10 Glue column to base. Fix lampholder and wire up with flex.

11 Glue baize to bottom, keeping material 6mm (¼in) from edge.

Material

Cherry, 150mm ×128mm × 25mm (6in × 5¹⁄₈in × 1in), for base; column in guarea or mahogany, 2 pieces 250mm × 50mm × 25mm (10in × 2in × 1in) or 1 piece 250mm × 47mm × 47mm (10in × 1₇⁄₈in × 1₇⁄₈in).

Stand for Needlework Bag

This stand provides an excellent combined effort for the needlework and woodwork departments. It gives good practice in gluing and squaring up.

Method

1 Set out centres for 10mm (³⁄₈in) holes as shown in drawing and bore these 13mm (½in) deep.

Note: a jig as shown in sketch holds material in position and locates the three holes in each leg for the boring operation.

2 Taper legs and round ends as shown.

3 Cut rails and pivots to length.

4 Fit rails to legs and assemble dry.

5 Clean up, mark all joints, and polish.

6 Glue up inner frame, and check squareness.

7 Insert pivot dry, and glue outer frame into position (see drawing).

Note: the dowel rails must fit closely in the legs. Always test the dowel rod for size.

Material

Ramin; about 90cm (1 yard) of material for bag and the same for lining.

Cutting list

Description

Length

Diameter

4 dowel rods for legs

600mm (2ft)

25mm (1in)

2 dowel rods for rails

375mm (1ft 3in)

10mm (³⁄₈in)

2 pivots and rails

350mm (1ft 2in)

10mm (³⁄₈in)

Tray

This tray has been designed to introduce the application of a simple dovetail joint, the method of marking out and the general sequence of operations for making this joint; to give practice in making stopped chamfers, and the working of a mason’s mitre. The student has an opportunity to try out various treatments in the contrasting woods.

Method

1 Prepare material.

2 Mark out length of sides and ends (square all round with a marking knife), saw off waste, leaving cut lines showing. Using a shooting board and steel jack plane carefully plane ends of material down to cut lines. Lay out sides and ends in their respective positions and number, making sure that all face marks are outside, and face edge marks are on the same plane (see drawing).

3 Set a cutting gauge to the thickness of the material and lightly gauge round the ends.

4 Mark out dovetails on side pieces and saw down the lines, do not remove waste (see saw kerf in isometric view).

5 Place side piece on to the end grain of end piece – held in vice – and check numbers before marking. Holding side piece firmly in the correct position, draw end of dovetail saw through the cuts previously made. This will leave marks for the pins.

6 Saw down on the waste side of saw kerf mark.

7 Complete marking out, and remove waste between half pins (see drawing) with coping saw, finishing carefully to the gauge lines with a paring chisel. Remove waste on side pieces with a dovetail saw.

8 Complete all the cutting and try joints, fitting where necessary. Note the alternative method as shown in drawing, when the waste is removed to allow an awl to be used for marking out.

9 Mark out handles, cut dovetails, and shape.

10 Position handles on tray ends, mark round dovetail with an awl, and gauge depth. Remove waste and fit handles.

11 Mark out and work chamfers. The chamfers on inside of ends stop short of joints, and are finished as a mason’s mitre on completion of gluing up. Run out chamfers at handle cut-out on outside of ends, as indicated in drawing.

12 Clean up and glue in handles.

13 Clean up, mask all joints and polish inside surfaces. Glue up, test for squareness and leave to dry.

14 Complete mason’s mitre on chamfers, flush all joints and complete polishing.

15