New Complete Guide to Band Saws, Revised and Expanded Edition E-Book

Mark Duginske

• Herausgeber: Fox Chapel Publishing
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 336

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

Didn't think the New Complete Guide to Band Saws could get more complete? Welcome to the Revised Edition, compiling over 250 illustrations and 3D diagrams to steer you through a comprehensive list of band saw uses. Author Mark Dugsinke, a lifelong woodworker from Merrill, Wisconsin, has spent a lifetime innovating in the world of band saws: his patented woodworking devices are a testament to that. That's why you'll want to review this exhaustive resource: it features chapters on band saw basics, saw shopping, choosing the blade to suit your needs, sawing straight and curved cuts, and more. You'll see lessons for creating jigs and fixtures like an expert. But most of all, you'll know you're in the trusted hands of an expert who knows every detail of what it takes to create the best band saw creations possible. Add it all together and this Revised Edition becomes an essential companion to any band saw enthusiast's shelf.

Leseprobe

Special Thanks

Thank you to Jay MacDougall, Power Tools Sales Manager at Woodcraft Supply, for reviewing the current edition of this book.

Acknowledgments

I would like to thank Alan Giagnocavo, Kaylee Schofield, and Christa Oestreich for giving me an opportunity to do this new edition and for being so easy to work with.

I would also like to thank Toshio Odate, Jesse Barragon (Eagle Tools), Garry Chinn (Garrett Wade), Erik Delaney, Jon Drew, Gene Duginske, Andy Kautza, Tom Gabriel, Aaron Gesicki, Jeff Kurka, Jim Langlois, Brad Packard (Packard Woodworks), Peter Segal (Garrett Wade), Jeff Trapp, Brad Witt & Doug Fett (Woodhaven), Kevin Harding, Chris Roland, Keither Rucker (OWWM). Jim Dillon, and Sharon & Chris Bagby (Highland Woodworking).

© 2007, 2014, 2025 by Mark Duginske

All rights reserved. New Complete Guide to Band Saws, Revised and Expanded Edition is a revised and expanded edition of the 2014 version published by Fox Chapel Publishing Company, Inc.

The patterns contained herein are copyrighted by the author. Readers may make copies of these patterns for personal use. The patterns themselves, however, are not to be duplicated for resale or distribution under any circumstances. Any such copying is a violation of copyright law.

ISBN 978-1-4971-0490-7

eISBN 978-1-63741-587-0

Library of Congress Control Number: 2024952463

To learn more about the other great books from Fox Chapel Publishing, or to find a retailer near you, call toll-free at 800-457-9112 or visit us at www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.

You can also send mail to:

Fox Chapel Publishing

903 Square Street

Mount Joy, PA 17552

We are always looking for talented authors. To submit an idea, please send a brief inquiry to [email protected].

Because working with band saws and other woodworking materials inherently includes the risk of injury and damage, this book cannot guarantee that creating the projects in this book is safe for everyone. For this reason, this book is sold without warranties or guarantees of any kind, expressed or implied, and the publisher and the author disclaim any liability for any injuries, losses, or damages caused in any way by the content of this book or the reader’s use of the tools needed to complete the projects presented here. The publisher and the author urge all readers to thoroughly review each project and to understand the use of all tools before beginning any project.

For a printable PDF of the templates used in this book, please contact Fox Chapel Publishing at [email protected], New Complete Guide to Band Saws, Revised and Expanded Edition 978-1-63741-587-0 in the subject line.

Dedication

This book is dedicated to my friend and mentor Toshio Odate. These are photos of my friend Toshio, who came from Japan to study industrial design in New York City. He was trained as shoji screen maker in Japan. He taught sculpture at Pratt Institute in Brooklyn. He is the author of Japanese Woodworking Tools: Their Tradition, Spirit and Use. I got to know him when I arranged seminars for him in the Midwestern United States. I would pick him up at an airport on Friday, and he would make a traditional shoji screen with hand tools over a two-day weekend. We became good friends. In his book and seminars, he reiterates that in Japan a craftsman has to be good and fast. One of the goals of this book is to help a bandsaw user become efficient.

“Skill has to be earned.”

—Toshio Odate

Contents

Introduction: The Versatile Band Saw

Chapter 1: Band Saw Basics

An introduction to the band saw, its parts, and safety procedures

Chapter 2: Shopping for a Band Saw

Understanding models, styles, and features when shopping for a saw

Chapter 3: Band Saw Blades

Understanding, selecting, and maintaining band saw blades

Chapter 4: Adjusting the Band Saw

From first-time adjustments through everyday calibrations, including tracking, tensioning, and aligning

Chapter 5: Sawing Straight Cuts

Ripping, resawing, special cuts, and making boards from logs

Chapter 6: Sawing Curved Cuts

Tips for sawing cabriole legs, intarsia, band saw boxes, and other curves

Chapter 7: Patterns and Templates

Understanding, creating, and using patterns and templates

Chapter 8: Jigs and Fixtures

Creating and using jigs to increase accuracy, including the micro-adjustable fence, taper jig, circle-cutting jig, sled jig, and others

Chapter 9: Sawing Joints

Mastering the mortise and tenon and dovetail joints

Glossary

Resources

Photo Credits

About the Author

INTRODUCTION

The Versatile Band Saw

No matter what woodworking project you choose to undertake, there is a good chance that you will need a band saw. Band saws can be used for a variety of tasks—from the clean, simple cuts of the popular Arts and Crafts furniture to more intricate designs—and it is this versatility that makes the band saw one of the most common power tools in the workshop. For example, you can make straight cuts in wood of almost any thickness. At the same time, because the band saw blade is narrow, you can also saw curves better than with any other machine, simply by moving the workpiece. This characteristic makes it essential for such projects as the graceful chair shown at left. Though it is used primarily for cutting wood, a band saw can cut many other materials, including most metals and plastics. Interestingly enough, it’s also widely used in food processing to cut meat.

The band saw is named for its blade, a thin and narrow band of steel with teeth on one edge that is welded together to form a loop. The blade is stretched over either two or three large wheels, which are driven by an electric motor. As the wheels rotate, the blade orbits tightly around them, creating a continuous cutting action, as shown in the illustration here.

The blade and the way it moves make the band saw unique among cutting machines, most of which use a circular blade or a bit that spins. Since the blade moves smoothly and continuously, it applies downward pressure on the workpiece. This makes the band saw safer than a circular saw, which applies a backward force that may kick the workpiece back toward the machine operator. Because the direction of the band saw blade is always downward, there is no danger of kickback. Safety is another reason why many woodworkers prefer the band saw for general cutting, and especially for cutting small pieces of wood.

The band saw’s thin blade also cuts wood with a minimum amount of effort and waste. This is particularly important when cutting an expensive exotic wood or a highly figured domestic wood. The band saw is also the tool of choice when cutting through thick wood—nothing slices through a log like a band saw with a sharp hook-tooth blade. Throughout the pages of this book, you will see numerous examples of just how adaptable the band saw is to virtually any woodworking scenario and how—with practice and the right know-how—you can create both simple pieces and more complex, beautiful designs just like a pro.

I grew up as a woodworker in Wisconsin, and I have been using the band saw in my woodworking shop throughout my career. I am among the many woodworkers who prize the band saw for its versatility and its safety. Today, I have two band saws in my workshop: a 14" (35.6cm) Delta that I use for general woodworking and cutting joints, and a 20" (50.8cm) Agazzini, an Italian beauty I use for resawing, or cutting a board into thinner planks through its width, and making veneers. In this book, you will also see a shiny new 14" (35.6cm) Jet that I borrowed for some of the photos. I’ve written several books on the band saw and have invented and patented a number of band saw accessories. My goal in writing this all-new handbook is to share with you the experience I have gained from a lifetime of using the band saw—something you won’t find in any instruction manual—so that you begin to think like a woodworker and can feel confident with the band saw in your workshop.

A woodworker making curvaceous chairs like this would find a band saw essential—the only alternative would be to saw all the curved parts by hand.

The band saw is named for its blade, a thin band of steel with teeth on one side that is welded together to form a loop. As the saw’s wheels rotate, the blade moves with them, creating a continuous cutting action.

Many projects, such as this graceful Arts and Crafts sideboard, require straight cuts and long, gentle curves. This piece is made of quarter-sawn oak, a material that is expensive to buy, but easy to cut from small logs using the band saw.

Chapter 1 will provide you with a general overview of how band saws work so that you will become familiar with common terminology and the band saw’s inherent safety features. After you have a basic understanding of what a band saw can do in your workshop, Chapter 2 will help you to shop like an expert (even if you aren’t one) to find the new or used band saw that’s the right investment for you; I’ll provide you with a checklist for evaluating a used band saw and will arm you with the information you need to compare models and test how they perform.

Naturally, once you’ve purchased your band saw, knowing how to use it properly and maintain it is crucial to extending the life of your machine and getting the quality results you want for your projects. The goal of this book is to provide scientifically accurate information about the band saw. I have partnered with Aaron Gesicki, PE, and we are providing scientific information about blade tension, which is the biggest question mark that baffles band saw users. This is the first test of this type of scientific test that is being published in a book. Chapters 3 and 4 are devoted to maximizing your saw’s performance. These chapters focus on the different types of band saw blades, how to choose the best blade for each application, and how to maintain them. You will also learn exactly how to make adjustments to your band saw—those you make when you acquire a saw, those you make every time you change the blade, and those you make while you are sawing—and how to know when you’ve done it right so that you can avoid the frustration that comes with an improperly adjusted machine.

The next several chapters spend time illustrating the mechanics of how to make the desired cuts in your wood. The band saw excels at making straight cuts (Chapter 5) and long, gentle curves in thick or thin wood (Chapter 6). You will learn all about guiding a straight cut using a fence as well as by eye and how to saw boards out of small logs. I’ll prove that cutting curves with the band saw is not difficult and is a lot of fun. In fact, many first-time users get acceptable results right away. You will learn how to use the band saw in place of the scroll saw for cutting delicate curves, how to start and extract the blade in complicated layouts, and how to make curved chair backs and graceful cabriole legs for fine furniture. I’ll also teach you how to use patterns, templates (Chapter 7), and accessories, such as jigs and fixtures (Chapter 8), to help you work more accurately and efficiently and how to finish your projects to look polished and professional.

As your expertise and confidence grow, you can refer to Chapter 9 to learn how your band saw can be used for making interlocking mechanical joints, such as the mortise and tenon and the dovetail, traditionally crafted by hand and still the benchmark of high-quality workmanship when producing frames, stands, and cases. Once you’ve mastered these practical and efficient techniques, you’ll be able to construct almost any type of furniture with relative ease. Finally, for those eager to put their newly found skills to use, there are four useful and attractive projects included throughout the book that utilize all you’ve learned in this book and showcase why the band saw may be the most indispensable tool in your workshop.

Traditional furniture pieces such as highboy chests often have a sweeping gooseneck molding, which can be cut on the band saw and then routed and sanded.

CHAPTER ONE

Band Saw Basics

Figure 1.1. A common band saw design is the stand-mounted two-wheel 14" (35.6cm) Jet.

The band saw you will see in most woodworking shops is the stand-mounted two-wheel 14" (35.6cm) machine shown in Figure 1.1. Large shops with larger band saws most often will also have a little 14" (35.6cm) machine like this one ready to work. First made in Milwaukee, Wisconsin, in the early 1930s, this saw design has been the standard of the industry for 75 years. Today, there are many Asian-made imported saws that mimic this basic design and that even use the same standard 93 ½" (2.4m) blade. It’s probably the first band saw you encountered, and it’s likely that—if you own a band saw already—you own one like this. So let’s begin with a basic introduction of standard band saws.

Band saws for woodworking are manufactured in a variety of vertical and horizontal configurations that range from small portable units to large industrial heavyweights. There are three basic styles of band saws: floor models, stand-mounted models, and bench-top models. Most have two wheels, though three-wheel saws do exist. The most common horizontal configuration is what you see on portable saw mills, where the rail-mounted saw moves through the log, the heart of which is a wide-blade gas-powered band saw.

Band saws are generally classified according to either the wheel diameter or the throat width, which describes the distance between the column and the blade, as shown in Figure 1.2. Because the moving blade must be guarded at the column, a two-wheel band saw with 14" (35.6cm) wheels has a throat width of slightly less than 14" (35.6cm). A three-wheel saw may have a very large throat width, also shown in Figure 1.2, and is likely to be less expensive than a two-wheel machine with a similar throat width. However, the three-wheel design has a number of drawbacks: it is more difficult to track and more difficult to align the wheels, and some users report premature blade wear, perhaps due to the fact that the blade must flex more tightly over smaller wheels.

Figure 1.2. Band saws are classified according to the wheel size or the throat width, the distance between the column and the blade. Most popular 14" (35.6cm) saws have a throat width of 13" (33cm) and a wheel diameter of 14" (35.6cm). Three-wheel saws have wide throats. A typical 14" (35.6cm) saw can cut a 6" (15.2cm)-thick piece of wood, but with an optional 6" (15.2cm) height attachment, some can cut 12" (30.5cm)-thick material.

Band saws are also classified by depth of cut, which means the thickest material that the saw can fit between the saw table and the upper blade guide. A typical 14" (35.6cm) band saw can saw a 6" (15.2cm)-thick piece of wood. An optional 6" (15.2cm) height riser can be bolted between the top and bottom castings of some 14" (35.6cm) band saws, allowing for the cutting of material up to 12" (30.5cm) thick (see Figure 1.2). Few 14" (35.6cm) saws have the power to handle such a deep cut in solid hardwood, but they may be able to manage 8" (20.3cm) or thereabouts. This increased capacity is nevertheless useful in many other situations, for example, when trimming furniture subassemblies or for clearance when using some jigs and fixtures.

Parts of the band saw

The major parts of the band saw include the blade, the machine frame, the wheels, the table, and the blade guides. The various parts of the band saw may be called different names by various manufacturers, books, and magazines. Each of the major parts is discussed under the following titles and is shown in Figure 1.3 and the following illustrations. If you are not already familiar with the band saw, please take the time to study the drawings and identify the part names as they relate to your particular machine. While features are pretty much standard among various brands of 14" (35.6cm) band saws, you will find much more variation on both smaller and larger machines. Sometimes one variation is better than another, sometimes not. Even though each manufacturer makes a slightly different machine, the same general principles apply.

Figure 1.3. This small stand-mounted saw has the same basic parts as larger machines, though they may be named differently by various manufacturers and in other books and magazines. Take the time to study the part names as they relate to your particular machine.

Figure 1.4. Most of the important parts of the band saw, including the wheels and table, attach to the frame; this is the two-piece cast-iron frame used on the standard 14" (35.6cm) saw. Most saws have a separate piece of sheet metal, called the wheel housing, attached to the frame to safely cover the back.

Figure 1.5. Some saws have a one-piece casting that provides both the main framework and the cover for the back of the wheels, such as this 12" (30.5cm) Jet. The cast iron adds weight, which dampens vibration. The wheels on most small band saws are made of cast aluminum, with a rubber tire to cushion the blade.

Blade

The band saw blade is a thin band of steel with teeth either punched or ground on one edge with its two ends welded together to form a smooth loop. The blade is mounted on either two or three wheels. As the wheels rotate, they move the blade along with them, creating a continuous cutting action. More expensive blades have hardened teeth including high-speed steel and carbide tipped. Band saw blades are covered in detail in Chapter 3, “Band Saw Blades,” here.

Frame

Most of the important parts of the band saw—including the motor, wheels, and table—attach to the frame, as shown in Figure 1.4. The frame is the saw’s backbone. There are various styles of frames, and each manufacturer makes its frames differently. The most common types of frame are the one-piece casting and the skeletal frame, an assembly of sheet steel with cast and welded pieces of metal. A separate piece of sheet metal, called the wheel housing, is attached to the frame to safely cover the back of the saw. Some saws have a large, one-piece cast-iron frame that incorporates the wheel covers, such as the 12" (30.5cm) Jet saw shown in Figure 1.5. The cast iron adds to the weight of the saw, which helps dampen vibration. In the past, both INCA and Sears have used lightweight aluminum one-piece castings, but both of those designs have been discontinued, though you may still see an aluminum frame on a used machine. Steel frames are growing in popularity, arguably being better sellers than the older cast iron designs.

Power Switch

The band saw motor is turned on and off with a switch. On some models, the switch is attached to the saw frame, as in Figure 1.6. On other models, it is on the stand. Some switches have built-in safety interlocks, which prevent use of the saw unless a plastic key has been inserted. If there is any risk that children may be tempted to turn on your band saw, make sure that you use some kind of protection. A locked electrical panel box protects the entire shop.

Figure 1.6. Some saws have the on-off switch mounted on the machine frame, while others have it on the stand.

Figure 1.7. Two important adjustment mechanisms are built into the back side of the band saw’s top wheel: the tension mechanism, which tightens the saw blade by raising the wheel against a spring, and the tilt knob, which tilts the wheel’s axle to track the blade.

Motor

The typical consumer-grade band saw is equipped with a ¾ hp or 1 hp motor as standard equipment. This size motor is adequate unless you plan to resaw a lot of thick material, in which case a 1 ½ hp motor is the minimum requirement. Many band saw motors can be converted from standard 110-volt electrical current to 220-volt, which also increases the motor’s efficiency. The conversion is a simple matter of swapping wires guided by instructions usually found inside the electrical box on the motor; it does require a new 220-volt plug on the power cord and 220-volt breaker-protected service to a nearby outlet.

Wheels

The size of the band saw wheels determines many of its characteristics and abilities. The band saw wheels usually are made of cast aluminum with a hub (see Figure 1.5), thick spokes, and a flat or crowned rim; some older saws have a solid disk for a wheel. The rim usually is covered with a strip of rubber called a tire. The tire cushions the blade and protects the teeth from damage due to contact with the metal wheel. The bottom wheel is the drive wheel. It is attached to the motor either directly or through a V-belt running on pulleys. The top wheel is not powered but rotates by contact with the blade, which is being driven from below. The top wheel has adjustments for the tension on the band saw blade and also for how the blade centers, or tracks, on the wheels, as shown in Figure 1.7.

Tension Screw

Band saw blades operate best under some tension, with the amount of tension primarily determined by the blade’s width. The tension on the blade is adjusted with a threaded screw, which moves the top wheel up and down, as shown in Figure 1.7. When you rotate the knob atop the tension screw to increase the tension, it compresses the tension spring inside the tension block. These functions are described more fully in Chapter 4, “Adjusting the Band Saw,” here.

Tilt Knob

Though it is not powered, the top wheel has the job of balancing or centering the blade on the wheels, which is called tracking the blade. This is done using an adjustable tilt mechanism. Turning the knob counterclockwise tilts the top wheel forward, and rotating the knob clockwise tilts the wheel backward (see Figure 1.7). Very small changes in wheel tilt can have a large effect on exactly how the blade travels over the wheels; more on this can be found in Chapter 4, “Adjusting the Band Saw,” here.

Wheel Covers

Wheel covers protect the operator from the spinning wheels and the blade. If the blade breaks, the covers contain the pieces. Some saws have hinged covers, while others have covers that attach with knobs or clips. The two most common materials used for covers are plastic and metal. Plastic is quieter and less susceptible to vibration. Metal covers should be secured tightly to avoid vibration and noise.

Table

The band saw table is attached to the saw frame by means of two semicircular metal parts called trunnions, as shown in Figure 1.8. The workpiece rests on the table as it is fed into the blade. The table surrounds the blade, which passes through a large hole in the middle. The hole also helps the operator gain access to the blade-guide adjustments below the table. The table includes a throat plate with a blade slot that fills the center opening, a slot from the edge to the center that allows the blade to enter, a miter gauge slot milled in the table surface parallel to the direction of cut, a tilt mechanism mounted under the table (see Figure 1.9), and a fence rail mounted on the front edge of the table.

Figure 1.8. Two semicircular metal trunnions attach the table to the frame. Bolts located in the trunnions secure them to the trunnion support casting. This system allows the table to tilt. The cast-iron table has a center opening for the blade, an insert that fits the opening around the blade, and a milled slot for the miter gauge.

Figure 1.9. This under-the-table view shows the trunnions, which allow the table to tilt, and blade guide mechanism on a 14" (35.6cm) Jet saw. The bottom guide assembly is situated between the two semicircular arcs machined in the trunnion support casting. The pointer is secured to the trunnion support and should be adjusted to an accurate 90-degree setting.

Table Slot

A narrow slot in the table, running from the outside edge to the center hole, allows the blade to enter. There is usually some device to keep the table surfaces aligned on either side of the slot. It may be a bolt, a pin, or a screw; some manufacturers use the front rail to align the table across the slot. Make sure that you do keep this device in place; without it, you risk the two halves warping in opposite directions, causing an uneven table.

Table Throat Plate

A throat plate with a blade slot fits into the hole in the table. The throat plate is made of either plastic or metal. A plastic plate is quieter and won’t cause any damage if the blade accidentally touches it. On some saws, the setscrew adjustments for the guide holder and thrust bearing are made through the hole in the table, after removing the throat plate. On other saws, all of the adjustments are made from underneath the table.

Table Miter Gauge Slot

Most saws have a miter gauge slot milled across the surface. This slot runs parallel to the blade and accepts the miter gauge bar, which is usually used for crosscutting (cutting across the grain of the wood). The miter gauge slot also is very useful for guiding owner-built jigs, which are discussed in Chapter 8, “Jigs and Fixtures,” here. The miter gauge slot is ideal for position jigs, such as the circle cutting jig (Figure 8.4) and the dovetail jig (Figure 9.13).

Table Tilt Mechanism

The saw table on most band saws is designed to tilt, which means that it can make beveled or angled cuts, as shown in Figure 1.10. The table tilts away from the column up to 45 degrees. On some models, it also tilts toward the column up to 10 degrees (see Figure 1.10), a handy feature for cutting dovetail pins, but not a necessity. Underneath the table on some saws, there is an adjustable bolt or screw to help level the table back to 90 degrees after it has been tilted.

Figure 1.10. The trunnion mechanism allows the band saw table to tilt 45 degrees away from the column, and about 10 degrees toward it.

Guide Post

The top assembly is attached to a metal rod called the guide post. The whole upper guide assembly is adjustable up and down so it can be set just above the workpiece, as shown in Figure 1.11. The guide post lock screw locks the post at the desired height. The blade guard is attached to the front of the guide post. In most situations, you want about ¼" (6.4mm) of clearance between the top guide assembly and the workpiece. This prevents the operator’s finger from coming into contact with the blade. This also reduces the unsupported blade span between thrust bearings, decreasing the likelihood of blade deflection.

Figure 1.11. The top guide assembly is secured to the end of the guide post and is adjustable up and down to accommodate various board thicknesses. The post is normally locked with about ¼" (6.4mm) clearance above the workpiece to keep the operator’s fingers safely away from the blade.

Guide Assembly

Two guide assemblies support the blade. One is located below the table and one is above the table. Each guide assembly consists of two guide blocks, one on each side of the blade, which keep it from deflecting sideways and twisting. Each assembly also houses a thrust bearing, which supports the back edge of the blade and keeps the blade from being pushed backward under the load of cutting, as shown in Figure 1.12. The guides and bearing are held in place by a metal casting called the guide assembly. Each guide assembly contains a mechanism for the independent forward and backward movement of the guides and thrust bearing. The guide-assembly design shown accommodates different blade widths.

Figure 1.12. The guide assemblies keep the blade from deflecting sideways and from twisting. Each one consists of two guide blocks located on each side of the blade, plus a thrust bearing, which keeps the blade from being pushed backward. Both guide assemblies allow the independent forward and backward movement of the guides and thrust bearing to accommodate different blade widths.

Figure 1.13. Blade guides typically can be removed, changed, and locked in position with an Allen wrench.

Figure 1.14. Thrust bearings limit the backward movement ofthe blade.

Blade Guides

There is a pair of blade guides above the saw table and another pair below, with each pair flanking the blade on either side, as shown in Figure 1.13. The guides are also called blocks, pins, or guide blocks. These guides can be bearings, or they can be made of solid material such as steel, or of high-tech materials such as phenolic plastic, which may contain a patented dry lubricant.

Thrust Bearing

On most saws, a round wheel bearing called the thrust bearing is used to limit the backward movement of the blade (see Figure 1.14). A bearing is used because it decreases friction at the back of the blade. There are usually two thrust bearings, one above and one below the table. The thrust bearing is called by a number of other names, including blade support and roller guide, but in this book it will be called a thrust bearing.

BAND SAW SAFETY PROCEDURES

The band saw is so popular because it is versatile and relatively safe and easy to use. Many schools, especially junior high schools that offer shop classes, have the students do all of their ripping, or sawing along the grain of the wood, on the band saw, as shown in Figure 1.15, because it is so much safer than the table saw. Even though the machine is fairly safe, you must never take safety for granted. Read the following safety rules carefully, and practice each and every one.

1.    Before operating the saw, read and understand the instruction manual that comes with it.

2.    If you are still not thoroughly familiar with the operation of the band saw, get advice from a qualified person.

3.    Make sure that the machine is electrically grounded and that the wiring codes are followed.

4.    Do not operate the band saw while you are tired or while under the influence of drugs, alcohol, or medication.

5.    Always wear eye protection (safety glasses or a face shield) and hearing protection.

6.    Wear a dust mask. Long-term exposure to the fine dust created by the band saw is not healthy.

7.    Remove your tie, rings, watch, and all jewelry. Roll up your sleeves and pull back your hair. You do not want anything to get caught in the saw.

8.    Make sure that the guards are in place, and use them at all times. The guards protect you from coming into contact with the blade.

9.    Make sure that the teeth of the saw blade point downward, toward the saw table.

10.  Adjust the upper blade guard so that it is about ¼" (6.4mm) above the material being cut.

11.  Make sure that the blade has been properly tensioned and tracked.

12.  Stop the machine before removing the scrap pieces from the table.

Figure 1.15. Many schools that offer shop classes have the students rip lumber on the band saw because it is so much safer than a table saw. Here is a student wearing her safety glasses and using the band saw with a fence to make a straight cut.

13.  Always keep your hands and fingers away from the blade.

14.  Make sure that you use the proper size and type of blade.

15.  Hold the workpiece firmly against the table. Do not attempt to saw stock that does not have a flat surface that can rest on the table, unless a suitable support is used.

16.  Use a push stick at the end of a cut. This is the most dangerous time because the cut is complete and the blade is exposed. Push sticks are commercially available, or they are easy to make in the workshop.

17.  Hold the wood firmly and feed it into the blade at a moderate speed.

18.  Turn off the machine if you have to back the material out of an incomplete or jammed cut.

19.  When you are working inside the saw, whether for adjustments or repairs, always disconnect the power.

CHAPTER TWO

Shopping for a Band Saw

Figure 2.1. There are a good selection of band saws on the market. Even one manufactuer, such as Jet, has options in small to large sizes.

Acquiring a band saw is a lot like buying a car: it is a balance between taste, attraction, and financial considerations. Any band saw is better than no band saw. Starting with a small band saw will get you started. A lot of serious band saw users like me have a smaller saw and a larger saw for resawing.

The old adage “you get what you pay for” is especially true of the band saw. More than any other tool, quality makes a big difference in band saw performance. When shopping for a band saw, you must look beyond the sales hype to choose a saw that fits your needs. Like the lathe, the band saw is a skill-intensive machine. Since you are cutting freehand, you can feel how the machine is performing. The band saw should run smoothly and cut thick material without resistance or vibration. If the saw vibrates, either there is something wrong with the setup, or else it is not a good piece of equipment.

Which saw you buy naturally depends on your plans for it and your budget. But because the band saw requires skill to cut well, you will also want to compare features carefully to find the machine that suits you best. In this chapter, I’ll run down all the systems and parts of the machine and explain what your choices are, and what you might be trading off. My remarks apply equally to new machines and to used ones, which you may discover at auctions or in newspaper or online classified ads. At the end of this chapter, there will be a section on buying used equipment with a checklist to help you evaluate the machines you may be offered.

Figure 2.2. The two-wheel 14" (35.6cm) band saw has a 14" (35.6cm) diameter wheel and a distance of 13" (33cm) between the column and the blade, called the throat width.

Band saws for woodworking are available in a variety of sizes and prices, and retail dealers often have a good selection, as shown in Figure 2.1. Band saws range in size from small portable bench-top units to large industrial heavyweights. There are three basic styles of band saws: bench top, stand mounted, and floor model, further differentiated by wheel size, throat size, and number of wheels. As I mentioned previously, the most common design is the 14" (35.6cm) two-wheel saw. Its 14" (35.6cm) diameter wheels yield a throat width of 13" (33cm) between the column and the blade, as shown in Figure 2.2.

Figure 2.3. Bench-top saws are the smallest size and can be mounted directly on a workbench or on a purchased or shop-made stand or cabinet. The motor on these saws is mounted directly to the unit so there is no motor or belt system below the table.

Bench-top saws

Bench-top saws are the smallest and can be mounted directly on a worktable or on a purchased or shop-made stand or cabinet, as shown in Figure 2.3. Bench-top saws are typically lightweight and typically have wheel diameters in the range of 8"–12" (20.3–30.5cm). They are ideal for small projects and small workshops. One characteristic of these saws is that the motor is mounted directly to the unit, so there is no belt system below the table. Although typically small and lightweight, there are exceptions, such as the 12" (30.5cm) Jet, shown in Figure 2.4, and the 14" (35.6cm) Shop Fox, Figure 2.5.

For a number of years, bench-top saws were manufactured with the three-wheel design, but those models have been discontinued. Remember that a three-wheel saw offers the widest throat in the least amount of space, but the design has drawbacks: It is more difficult to align the wheels and track the blades, and some users report premature blade wear.

Europeans have made high-quality, small, table-top band saws. For years, I used the INCA 340. It was made in Switzerland from one solid-cast aluminum frame. Shopsmith makes a high-quality, American-made band saw, and they are often available on the used market for a very reasonable price.

Figure 2.4. Although bench-top models are often quite small and lightweight, there are exceptions. The 12" (30.5cm) Jet is a small but heavy-duty machine. The frame and back wheel guard are cast iron.

Figure 2.5. The 14" (35.6cm) Shop Fox is a heavy machine that is technically a bench-top saw. It features a quick-release tension lever and a rack-and-pinion guide post, unusual on a 14" (35.6cm) saw.

Stand-mounted saws

The stand-mounted model is characterized by the familiar 14" (35.6cm) band saw with the cast-iron frame and stamped steel stand that is either an open frame or an enclosed cabinet. The motor is usually mounted in the stand under the saw and is connected by a drive belt to the lower wheel. The 14" (35.6cm) size, shown in Figure 2.6, is adequate for most woodworking tasks and is the most popular size sold. These band saws are so popular because they’re very versatile, small, and relatively inexpensive. Although these saws all look very much alike, their quality varies widely, with price being a reasonable indicator of quality.

The 14" (35.6cm) saw market is very competitive, and the imported saws have pressed prices downward. Prices vary widely, so it is worth researching a purchase. While you might find the lowest price through a distant dealer, a locally purchased saw would not require additional charges for shipping, though you might have to evaluate that against having to pay sales tax.

Since the 1930s, with the advent of the 14" (35.6cm) Delta saw, this category of saws has been made with a frame consisting of two iron castings supporting the top and bottom wheels. Sheet-metal blade guards are secured to the frame members. The two frame members mate together at the base of the column. A height extension, which is also called a riser block, can be installed between the frame castings, as discussed in Installing the Riser here.

The typical consumer-grade band saw comes with a ¾ hp motor as standard equipment. This size motor is adequate unless you plan to resaw thick wood, in which case a 1 hp motor is the minimum requirement. More expensive models use a 1 ½ hp motor. Some manufacturers offer the same saw with your choice among these three motor sizes.

These 14" (35.6cm) saws can handle blades up to ⅝" (1.6cm) wide and 1/40" (0.6mm) thick for heavy work and resawing. They can accept either block-style guides or ball bearing guides. With block-style guides and phenolic replacement blocks, blades as narrow as 3/32" (2.4mm) can be used.

Although the 14" (35.6cm) band saw with a larger motor will handle a variety of tasks, there are limitations. These saws typically have a pronounced crown on their wheels, which helps track narrow blades. Although most owners’ manuals state that a ¾" (1.9cm) blade can be used, these blades are usually 0.035" (0.9mm) thick and are prone to break prematurely from metal fatigue caused by bending the thick band over the relatively small wheels.