Patagonia Travel Guide 2023-2024 - Gerardo Bartolome - E-Book

Patagonia Travel Guide 2023-2024 E-Book

Gerardo Bartolomé

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An updated travel guide, written by locals, thought out to be an important tool to plan a trip to Patagonia. Includes different ideas, combinations and itineraries according to the traveler's available time and budget as well as thorough useful information in addition to more than 90 inspiring photos and more than 40 incredible 360 pictures that take you to each place before actually going there.  A "must" to start an unforgettable trip with an unforgettable planning experience.

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PATAGONIA TRAVEL GUIDE 2023/2024

Written by locals

Featuring Ushuaia,

Torres del Paine,

Gerardo, Bartolomé

Patagonia Travel Guide: 2023-2024 / Bartolomé Gerardo; fotografías de Paula Ford. - 1ª ed. - Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires: Ediciones Históricas, 2023.

Libro digital, EPUB - (Be There / Gerardo Bartolomé; 2)

Archivo Digital: descarga

ISBN 978-987-82942-3-0

1. Patagonia. 2. Argentina. 3. Turismo. I. Ford, Paula, fot. II. Título.

CDD 918.2

Copyright 2023 by Gerardo Bartolomé

Published by Ediciones Históricas / Gerardo M. Bartolomé, established in Buenos Aires, Argentina. For more information write to [email protected] or [email protected]

This book is sold subject to the condition that it shall not by way of trade or otherwise be lent, re-sold, hired out or otherwise circulated without the publisher’s prior consent in any form of binding or cover other than that in which this is published and without a similar condition including this condition being imposed on the subsequent purchaser.

Without limiting the rights under copyright reserved above, no part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in or introduced into a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form, or by any means without the prior written permission of the copyright owner of this book.

Cover by Paula Ford and Gerardo Bartolomé.

E-book design by Ricardo Dorr.

Table of Contents

Introduction. Planning a trip to Patagonia?

Chapter 1. What you need to know to plan your trip, and some helpful tips

1.1 Getting started

1.2 How to visit Patagonia?

1.3 Getting to Patagonia

1.4 When

1.5 What to do

1.6 Budget

1.7 Our rating system, stars and other tags

Chapter 2. Ushuaia

2.1 Introduction

2.2 A bit of history

2.3 How and when to come

2.4 Where to stay

2.5 What and where to eat

2.6 Moving around

2.7 What to do

2.7.1 Short Beagle Channel Navigation

2.7.2 Long Beagle Channel Navigation + Harberton + Penguins

2.7.3 Train of the End of the World

2.7.4 Tierra del Fuego National Park

2.7.5 Pack Raft down Olivia River

2.7.6 Trekking

2.7.6.1 Coastal Path in National Park

2.7.6.2 Laguna Esmeralda (Emerald Lagoon)

2.7.6.3 Ojo del Albino

2.7.6.4 Glaciar (Glacier) Vinciguerra

2.7.6.5 Glaciar (Glacier) Martial

2.7.6.6 Estancia Bahía Túnel & Río Encajonado

2.7.6.7 Other trekking alternatives

2.7.7 Lake District

2.7.8 Lake District and Wild Coast

2.7.9 Helicopter Ride

2.7.10 Estancia Harberton

2.7.11 Penguin Colony

2.7.12 Puerto Almanza

2.7.13 Prison Museum (Museo Marítimo)

2.7.14 Hop on Hop off City Tour

2.7.15 Walking the city center

2.7.16 Ski and other winter activities

2.8 Some ideas and suggestions

2.8.1 If staying 3 days

2.8.2 If staying 7 days or more

Chapter 3. El Calafate

3.1 Introduction

3.2 A bit of history

3.3 How and when to go

3.4 Where to stay

3.5 What and where to eat

3.6 Moving around

3.7 What to do

3.7.1 Perito Moreno Glacier (walkways)

3.7.2 Mini trekking on ice + Perito Moreno walkways

3.7.3 Short navigation + Perito Moreno walkways

3.7.4 Navigation to Estancia Cristina + Uppsala Glacier

3.7.5 Navigation to Est. Cristina + Uppsala glacier + lodging

3.7.6 Long Navigation to Glaciers Upsala & Spegazzini

3.7.7 Estancia Nibepo Aike full day program

3.7.8 Estancia Nibepo Aike 2 days program

3.7.9 Estancia Nibepo Aike + Perito Moreno

3.7.10 Southern glaciers + Nibepo Aike

3.7.11 Kayaking the Santa Cruz River

3.7.12 Glaciarium or Ice Museum

3.7.13 Walichu cave

3.7.14 Birdwatching in Laguna Nimez

3.7.15 Day trip to El Chaltén

3.7.16 Walking the city center

3.8 Some ideas and suggestions

3.8.1 If staying 2 full days

3.8.2 If staying 4 days or more

Chapter 4. El Chaltén

4.1 Introduction

4.2 A bit of history

4.3 How and when to go

4.4 Where to stay

4.4.1 In the village

4.4.2 Hostería el Pilar

4.4.3 Aguas Arriba Lodge

4.4.4 Domes

4.5 What and where to eat

4.6 Moving around

4.7 What to do

4.7.1 Road to/from Calafate

4.7.2 Wildlife observation

4.7.3 Trekking

4.7.3.1 Cóndor and Eagle viewpoints

4.7.3.2 Hostería Pilar + Laguna Capri

4.7.3.3 Laguna de los Tres

4.7.3.4 Laguna Torre

4.7.3.5 Pliegue Tumbado

4.7.3.6 Glaciar Huemul

4.7.3.7 Other trekking alternatives

4.7.4 The road to the North and Lago del Desierto

4.7.5 Madsen’s House Museum

4.7.6 Kayaking in Rio de las Vueltas

4.7.7 Other activities

4.8 Some ideas and suggestions

4.8.1 If staying 2 full days

4.8.2 If staying 4 full days or more

Chapter 5. Torres del Paine

5.1 Introduction

5.2 A bit of history

5.3 How and when to go

5.4 Where to stay

5.4.1 Sleeping in the Serrano area

5.4.2 Sleeping in Puerto Natales

5.4.3 Within the Park

5.4.3.1 Hotel Explora

5.4.3.2 Hotel Pehoe

5.4.4 East of the Park

5.4.4.1 Cerro Castillo

5.4.4.2 Posada Tres Pasos

5.5 Moving around

5.6 What to do

5.6.1 Salto Grande waterfall and Cuernos’ viewpoint

5.6.2 Lake Pehoe and Cóndor Viewpoint

5.6.3 East side of the Park

5.6.3.1 Nordenskjold’s viewpoint

5.6.3.2 Rio Paine waterfall

5.6.3.3 Bridge over Rio Paine

5.6.3.4 Lagoon/Laguna Amarga

5.6.4 Trekking to Base Torres

5.6.5 Navigation to Grey glacier

5.6.6 Lake Grey and trekking

5.6.7 Other activities in the Park

5.6.8 Other Activities out of the Park

5.6.8.1 Visit to Puerto Natales

5.6.8.2 Milodon Cave

5.6.8.3 Navigation to Balmaceda and Serrano Glaciers

5.6.8.4 Horse riding in Estancia El Lazo

5.7 Some ideas and suggestions

5.7.1 If staying 3 full days

5.7.2 If staying 5 full days or more

Chapter 6. Other Awesome Places in Patagonia

6.1 Introduction

6.2 Patagonian Atlantic Coast

6.2.1 Valdes Peninsula

6.2.2 Camarones + Cabo Dos Bahías

6.2.3 Bahía Bustamante

6.2.4 Puerto Deseado

6.2.4.1 Penguin Island

6.2.4.2 Deseado Bay tour

6.2.4.3 Campamento Darwin / Darwin’s Camp site

6.2.4.4 Other

6.3 Cape Horn & Fuegian Channels

6.4 Punta Arenas

6.4.1 City tour

6.4.2 Magdalena Island

6.4.3 The King penguin colony in Useless Bay

6.5 Patagonian Epic Roads

6.5.1 Route 40 (Argentina)

6.5.2 Carretera Austral (Chile)

6.5.2.1 Short Alternative in Chile

6.5.2.2 Short Alternative through Argentina

6.5.2.3 Long Alternative

6.6 Northwestern Patagonia

6.7 Chilean channels

6.7.1 Skorpios Cruise

6.7.2 Navimag

6.8 Other Activities

6.8.1 Fly fishing and hunting

6.8.1.1 Fishing

6.8.1.2 Hunting

6.8.2 Skiing

6.8.3 Scuba diving

6.8.4 Golf

6.8.5 Photography

Chapter 7. Ideas & Combinations

7.1 Introduction

7.2 Two weeks (including travel days)

7.2.1 Alternative only Argentina

7.2.2 Alternative with Torres del Paine

7.3 Three weeks (including travel days)

7.3.1 Alternative of the Big Four

7.3.2 Alternative Coast and Andes, only Argentina

7.3.3 Alternative Mostly Chile

7.4 Four weeks (including travel days)

7.4.1 Alternative Grand Tour

7.4.2 Alternative Coast and Andes mainly Argentina

7.5 Winter week for Whale watching

Chapter 8. The Authors

Introduction. Planning a trip to Patagonia?

Welcome to our Patagonia Travel Guide. This book will be very helpful for you to understand what is there to see and do and specifically how to plan your trip so that Patagonia fulfills everything that you expect from your holidays and more.

Paula and I live in Argentina and have travelled through this fascinating region for more than thirty years, writing books and photographing amazing places. We now want to share all our “local knowledge” to help you improve the holidays that you want to spend here. Our goal is that your amazing trip to Patagonia starts with a great planning experience.

This guide does not describe in depth all of Patagonia for we have focused on the places that can make a most powerful impact on travellers coming from overseas. There is so much to see! But time is not infinite… so we have focused on chosen places and activities rather than making a long list with which you would feel lost. According to this strategy we offer you selected places in Patagonia, which, depending on how much time you have, can be visited in the same trip. We will suggest different alternatives for shorter or longer visits.

As you read you will find links (or QRs to scan) that will take you to immersive 360º photos where you will be able to explore and understand many places. Some of these 360º photos have icons which you can click to go from place to place or to see more information. We think that this 360º-technology can be very helpful and gives you an extra value.

Feel free to write to us asking for more information, suggestions, or doubts. Our email is [email protected]

Once again: Welcome to our Patagonia Travel Guide.

Paula & Gerardo

Chapter 1. What you need to know to plan your trip, and some helpful tips

1.1 Getting started

Patagonia is so big and there’s so many different things to see that probably you don’t know how to start planning your trip. Don’t worry! We’ll help you and you’ll start enjoying Patagonia right from the planning experience.

Since distances are great you won’t be able to have a good taste of this region if your visit is short. In fact, a short visit can be a frustrating experience. We say that you should come no less than two weeks, much better if it is three weeks. Remember that Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile are, necessarily, part of the trip, so you should spend two or three days there too.

Since Patagonia is a region shared by two countries, Argentina and Chile, it is important that you find out if they demand you a visa or charge you with some entry fee (depending on your nationality). Once you find that out, and the costs involved, you’ll be able to decide whether to cross the border between both countries or stick to only one.

1.2 How to visit Patagonia?

You can join a tour, you can travel on your own in a fully self-planned trip, you can combine both or you can seek guidance and pre-booking from Travel Agencies dedicated to incoming tourism.

English is spoken in touristic destinations but hardly when you leave the main towns. This means that moving with a rented car, or with public transportation, might be a bit challenging for those who don’t speak or understand a word of Spanish. Don’t take this as a final objection but consider it when you plan your trip (or parts of your trip). Other languages than English or Portuguese are not spoken at all, even in important cities, except in hotels or cruise ships.

If you decide to rent a car keep in mind that you should always try to have your gasoline tank full because distances are long and sometimes gas stations are closed. Try to avoid driving at night, guanacos cross the roads unexpectedly causing accidents.

Use weather apps or websites (Windguru or Meteored) to check the ever-changing Patagonian weather.

1.3 Getting to Patagonia

If you are coming from overseas, you’ll have to take a flight to Buenos Aires or Santiago de Chile. From there to southern Patagonia you will have to take another flight to one of these towns: Calafate, Ushuaia, Río Gallegos or Punta Arenas. If you want to visit the coast or the mountains of central and northern Patagonia your flight can be from Buenos Aires to Bariloche, San Martin de los Andes, Trelew or Comodoro Rivadavia. If coming through Santiago the Chile then you’ll fly to Puerto Montt or Pucon (check the previous map).