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- Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
- Kategorie: Lebensstil
- Sprache: Englisch
Learn the basic skills and techniques you need for successful hand and machine sewing
Over the past ten years, interest in sewing has grown. If want to learn how to sew or to improve your skills, Sewing For Dummies is the book you need to get started. This complete guide to sewing basics teaches you basic hand stitches and sewing machine operation, with easy-to-follow instructions and step-by-step illustrations. You'll work your way forward to develop the skills to create or repair clothing and furnishings that fit your personal style, your measurements, and your aesthetic. Find great patterns in stores and online, give thrift store finds new life, and learn about cool new fabrics and sewing trends. You'll also get an overview of common sewing mistakes and how to avoid them, so you can take up this relaxing, creative hobby with confidence. A full-color insert brings the text to life. Enjoy the feeling of accomplishment you'll get when you use your new skills to create wonderful handmade pieces.
- Learn hand and machine sewing skills, starting with the basics and working your way up
- Choose the right sewing machine for your needs and follow step-by-step tutorials to master its use
- Makes repairs and alterations to keep your wardrobe current
- Learn about online sewing resources and get ideas for finding fabric and patterns
This Dummies guide will help anyone who wants to learn basic sewing skills or brush up on what they already know. Sew a button back on your jacket, make pillowcases from an old dress, alter that great vintage dress to fit like a glove, and complete any other sewing projects you can dream up.
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Seitenzahl: 562
Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024
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Sewing For Dummies®
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Table of Contents
Cover
Title Page
Copyright
Foreword
Introduction
About This Book
Foolish Assumptions
Icons Used in This Book
Beyond the Book
Where to Go from Here
Part 1: Ready…Set…Sew!
Chapter 1: The World of Sewing from 30,000 Feet
Getting Started: Gathering Tools, Fabric, Pattern, and Your Sewing Machine
Sizing Up the Sewing Process
Moving On to the Needle and Thread
Adding Fashion Detail with Sleeves and Pockets
Sewing for the Home Is Where the Saving Is
Doing Your Part for the Planet with a Sustainable Wardrobe
Chapter 2: Tooling Around: Assembling Your Sewing Kit
Making a Sewing Survival Kit Inventory List
Measuring Up
Cutting Up (without Cracking Up)
Marking Up
Holding Down Your Projects
Getting to the Point with the Right Needles, Thimbles, and Seam Rippers
Selecting Thread for Your Project
Pressing Issues
Real Machines: Sewing Machines and Sergers
Chapter 3: Fabrics, Findings, and Interfacings … Oh My!
Choosing the Right Fabric for Your Project
Getting Notions about Findings
Investigating Interfacing
Preshrinking Your Fabric: Why It Needs a Spa Day
Chapter 4: Pondering Patterns in the 21st Century
Sewing Patterns in the 21
st
Century
Shopping for Patterns
Sizing Up Things for Fashion Sewing
Deciphering the Pattern and Its Parts
Laying Out the Pattern
Pinning and Cutting Out the Pieces
Making Your Mark
Part 2: Going to Sewing School: Getting the Hang of the Basic Skills
Chapter 5: Taking the First Steps of Your Sewing Adventure
Threading the Needle: A Survivors’ Guide
Tying a Sewing Knot
Choosing and Using the Proper Hand Stitches
Using Machine Stitches
Taking a Look at Essential Serger Stitches
Starting and Stopping
Basting Projects for a Better Fit
Pressing Matters
Sew Simple Project: Stitch Sampler Pin Cushion
Chapter 6: Securing Sensational Seams
Finishing the Edges First
Securing Your Seams
Seaming Fabrics
Ripping into Un-seamly Mistakes
Shaping Up the Seams
Sew Simple Project: Repurposed Sport Jersey Pillow
Chapter 7: Hemming Almost Anything by Hand and Machine
Marking the Hem’s Placement
Deciding on the Hem Allowance
Finishing the Raw Edges of the Hem
Securing the Hem
Hemming Knits with Twin Needles
Chapter 8: Playing Around: Sewing for Kids, Pets, and the Kid in You
Getting into Costume
Sew Simple Project: Recycled Denim Dog Bone
Sew Smart Project: Plush Pet Bed
Sew Simple Project: Cornhole Bags
Part 3: Strutting the Runway: Fashion Sewing 101
Chapter 9: Shaping Your Silhouette
Darting Around
Gathering Fabric from One Piece into Another
Sew Simple Project: Ruffled Apron
Completing Pleats
Adding Stretch and Comfort with Elastic
Chapter 10: Zip It. Button It. Close It.
No-Sweat Zippers
Buttonhole Basics
Other Fasteners
Chapter 11: What’s Up Your Sleeves?
Finishing Sleeveless Armholes
Rarin’ to Sew Raglan Sleeves
Taking On Set-In Sleeves
Chapter 12: Pockets: More Than Just a Place to Put Your Hands
Putting Together Patch Pockets
Using Your Own Pocket Patterns
Sew Simple Project: Four-Pocket Winter Scarf
Part 4: Casa Couture: Sewing for Your Home
Chapter 13: Decorating on Demand: Home Décor Sewing
Overcoming Décoraphobia
Homing In on Home Décor Fabric
Sew Smart Project: Easiest Shower Curtain Ever
Chapter 14: Tablescaping with Terrific Table Toppers
Finding, Selecting, and Measuring Fabric for Table Toppers
Sew Simple Project: Dinner-Ready Napkins
Sew Simple Project: Chalk-It-Up Reversible Table Runner
Chapter 15: Personalizing Praiseworthy Pillows
Selecting Materials for Pillows
Tackling Trim
Attaching Piping, Cording, and Fringe
Finding a Fit for a Pillow Form
Chapter 16: Brightening Up Your Bedroom
Sew Simple Project: Flat Panel Bed Skirt
Sew Simple Project: Custom Duvet Cover
Part 5: Makeover Magic: Mending, Alterations, and Quick Fixes for a Sustainable Wardrobe
Chapter 17: Fitting Finesse: Altering Clothes for All Shapes and Sizes
When It’s Too Short
When It’s Too Long
When It’s Too Tight
When It’s Too Loose
Sew Smart Project: Restyled Jacket with Ribbing Insets (Gussets) in the Side Seams
Chapter 18: Sewing SOS: “Help, I Ripped My ______”
Repairing a Split Seam
Patching Holes and Rips
Mending Tears in Fabric
Visible Mending
Sew Simple Project: Best Sewing Tool Ever — “Sew Help Me” Lanyard
Chapter 19: Sustainable Restyling: Giving Existing Garments New Life
Sew Smart Project: Felted Wool Hat
Sew Smart Project: Jean Jacket with Lace Tulle Insets
Sew Smart Project: Restyled Sweatshirt with a Button-Fly Side Slit
Part 6: The Part of Tens
Chapter 20: Ten Rookie Sewing Mistakes to Avoid
Attempting a Project Beyond Your Skill Level
Choosing Difficult Fabrics to Work With
Choosing an Unflattering Style
Using the Wrong Fabric for the Pattern
Laying Out the Fabric Incorrectly
Neglecting to Use Interfacing
Failing to Press as You Sew
Using an Old, Beat-Up Sewing Machine
Neglecting to Use a New Needle
Refusing to Cut Yourself Some Slack
Chapter 21: Ten Tips for Buying and Maintaining a Sewing Machine and Serger
Knowing Your Current Equipment
Deciding What Kind of Sewing You Want to Do
Picking the Right Price Point for Your Machine
Thinking Granny’s Castoff Is Just What You Need
Establishing Where to Buy Your Machine
Determining What Machine Features Are Important to You
Finding the Right Stitch Options … but Not Too Much
Testing Out That Baby
Counting On Your Customer Service
Understanding That Your Machine Needs TLC
Chapter 22: Ten ABCs of Sewing
Buying the Best Fabric You Can Afford
Understanding Your Fabric Terminology
Knowing the Difference between Right and Wrong
Putting Your Foot Down before Sewing
Stopping and Starting — the Right Way
Righty, Tighty; Lefty, Loosey
Test-Stitching First
Sewing from the Bottom Up and the Center Out
Pressing Seams Together and then Open or to One Side
Clipping with Your Scissor Tips
Index
About the Author
Supplemental Images
Connect with Dummies
End User License Agreement
List of Tables
Chapter 3
TABLE 3-1 Fabric Yardage Conversion Table
Chapter 5
TABLE 5-1 Converting Stitch Lengths
Chapter 7
TABLE 7-1 Recommended Hem Allowances
Chapter 14
TABLE 14-1 Yardage for 45-Inch Fabric
TABLE 14-2 Yardage for 54- to 55-Inch Fabric
Chapter 16
TABLE 16-1 Bed Skirt Yardage Chart
TABLE 16-2 Cutting Lengths for Bed Skirt and Pleats
List of Illustrations
Chapter 2
FIGURE 2-1: The indispensable contents of your Sewing Survival Kit.
FIGURE 2-2: Tape measures are ⅝-inch wide and 60 inches long.
FIGURE 2-3: Cut fabric quickly and accurately with a rotary cutter, cutting mat...
FIGURE 2-4: Quality thread for the sewing machine and cone thread for the serge...
FIGURE 2-5: Pressing tools that turn homemade into hand-tailored sewing project...
FIGURE 2-6: A typical sewing machine and its parts.
FIGURE 2-7: Typical sewing machine presser feet.
FIGURE 2-8: A serger sews the seam, finishes the edge of the fabric, and cuts o...
Chapter 3
FIGURE 3-1: Read the end of the bolt to find out necessary information about th...
FIGURE 3-2: Elastic comes in a variety of types and widths depending on the end...
FIGURE 3-3: These are just a few common laces available.
FIGURE 3-4: Look for these when you need filler cords and piping.
FIGURE 3-5: Rickrack and twill tape come in many widths and colors.
FIGURE 3-6: Common zipper types include (left to right) conventional metal-toot...
Chapter 4
FIGURE 4-1: Determine the correct pattern size by taking these measurements.
FIGURE 4-2: Back of a pattern envelope.
FIGURE 4-3: Markings on tissue pattern pieces are the road map to your project.
FIGURE 4-4: A listing and diagram of the universal symbols used on pattern piec...
FIGURE 4-5: The parts of a piece of fabric.
FIGURE 4-6: The grainline of your pattern tissue should be parallel to the fabr...
FIGURE 4-7: Don’t buy a pattern with princess line seams (seams that run from t...
FIGURE 4-8: For a one-way design, lay out pattern pieces so they run in the sam...
FIGURE 4-9: Even plaids have a mirror image when folded back on the bias. Uneve...
FIGURE 4-10: Match a plaid by drawing over the design on the pattern tissue at ...
FIGURE 4-11: Pin perpendicular to the cutting line and then clip notches using ...
FIGURE 4-12: Mark light-colored fabrics with an air- or water-soluble marker.
FIGURE 4-13: Mark dark fabric with pins and disappearing dressmaker’s chalk or ...
FIGURE 4-14: Mark pattern pieces by pushing pins straight through both fabric l...
Chapter 5
FIGURE 5-1: Threading a hand needle with a needle threader.
FIGURE 5-2: Threading a self-threading needle.
FIGURE 5-3: Getting yarn or embroidery floss through a tapestry needle.
FIGURE 5-4: A needle for a sewing machine and most sergers.
FIGURE 5-5: Make a loop.
FIGURE 5-6: Twist the loop.
FIGURE 5-7: Roll the loop to the end of your finger.
FIGURE 5-8: Secure the loop end with your middle finger, and then tighten the k...
FIGURE 5-9: Use this technique to securely fasten a row of hand-sewn stitches.
FIGURE 5-10: You baste by simply weaving the needle in and out of the fabric.
FIGURE 5-11: Use short, even stitches when fashioning running stitches.
FIGURE 5-12: The even backstitch is extremely strong.
FIGURE 5-13: Blind hems require fine stitches about ½ inch apart.
FIGURE 5-14: The slant or whip stitch is quick and easy but not too durable.
FIGURE 5-15: The hemming slipstitch is durable and nearly invisible.
FIGURE 5-16: Use the slipstitch to join two folded edges or seamlines.
FIGURE 5-17: Basic machine stitches.
FIGURE 5-18: The most common serger stitches.
FIGURE 5-19: Putting the presser foot down keeps the fabric from flopping up an...
FIGURE 5-20: Butt the fabric up under the presser foot of your serger (a) and s...
FIGURE 5-21: Pin-baste (a), hand-baste (b), or machine-baste (c) your project t...
FIGURE 5-22: Remove pins before running over them with your sewing machine.
FIGURE 5-23: Press along the seamline to set the stitches (a). Press seams open...
FIGURE 5-24: Fold the sampler in half by bringing the short ends together with ...
FIGURE 5-25: Sew a ½-inch seam on each side.
FIGURE 5-26: Fold and press a ½-inch seam allowance (a) and then turn the pin c...
FIGURE 5-27: Hand sew the opening closed using a hand slipstitch.
Chapter 6
FIGURE 6-1: Better than pinking a raw edge (a), use the three-step zigzag stitc...
FIGURE 6-2: Keep your seams in place with backstitching.
FIGURE 6-3: Tie off threads so they don’t unravel.
FIGURE 6-4: Place the right sides of the fabric together and pin so the pin hea...
FIGURE 6-5: Pin plaids or stripes on color bars with pins alternating
east to w
...
FIGURE 6-6: To turn a corner, stop sewing with the needle all the way in the fa...
FIGURE 6-7: A serged outside corner.
FIGURE 6-8: Stitch until you get to the corner and then manually pull a couple ...
FIGURE 6-9: Rotate the fabric and reposition the needles.
FIGURE 6-10: A serged inside corner.
FIGURE 6-11: Clip into the corner.
FIGURE 6-12: Serge until the blade reaches the corner.
FIGURE 6-13: A small pleat forms when you raise the foot and straighten the fab...
FIGURE 6-14: Two-step ¼-inch seam.
FIGURE 6-15: ¼-inch seam sewn with a four-thread overlock stitch on the serger.
FIGURE 6-16: Rip out unwanted stitches using a seam ripper.
FIGURE 6-17: Pull sharply on the thread tail back toward the stitching line to ...
FIGURE 6-18: Staystitch curves to keep the fabric from stretching out as you ha...
FIGURE 6-19: Understitch to manage the bulk in seam allowances and keep facings...
FIGURE 6-20: Edgestitch the edge of shirt pockets, collars, and cuffs to create...
FIGURE 6-21: Snug the fabric edge against the guide in the foot to make even ed...
FIGURE 6-22: Secure cuffs and facings by stitching-in-the-ditch.
FIGURE 6-23: Use topstitching to attach a pocket to a shirt (a) or pair of jean...
FIGURE 6-24: Clip the seam allowance to the staystitching on an outside curve; ...
FIGURE 6-25: Notching a curve with pinking shears is fast and efficient.
FIGURE 6-26: Trim seam allowances to eliminate bulk when your pattern instructi...
FIGURE 6-27: Prevent a wad in a corner by clipping away a little triangle there...
FIGURE 6-28: Stitch the shirt front closed.
FIGURE 6-29: Fit the shirt pillow cover to the pillow by marking it across the ...
FIGURE 6-30: Turn the shirt right side out and pop in the pillow through the ne...
Chapter 7
FIGURE 7-1: Hems can be narrow, wide, topstitched, cuffed, tapered, flared, str...
FIGURE 7-2: This hem marker makes marking a hem fast, easy, and accurate.
FIGURE 7-3: Overlap the raw hem edge with hem tape, and then pin and topstitch ...
FIGURE 7-4: Overlap the raw edge with hem lace, and then pin and topstitch ¼ in...
FIGURE 7-5: Finish hem edges with a three-step zigzag stitch on a sewing machin...
FIGURE 7-6: Finish a hem edge with your serger by using a three-thread overlock...
FIGURE 7-7: No-sew hemming with fusible web.
FIGURE 7-8: Pin the hem the same way, whether blind hemming by hand or machine.
FIGURE 7-9: Hand blind hemming.
FIGURE 7-10: Machine blind hem, snugging the guide in the foot against and lett...
FIGURE 7-11: Use twin needles for durable hems on knit fabric.
FIGURE 7-12: Trim off the excess hem allowance.
Chapter 8
FIGURE 8-1: Fold the tulle in half, and in half again, and then gently press al...
FIGURE 8-2: Create a casing for the elastic and ribbon to slide through.
FIGURE 8-3: Thread the elastic through the casing using a bobby pin.
FIGURE 8-4: Adjust the elastic so the tutu fits comfortably around your child’s...
FIGURE 8-5: Use these measurements to cut out the cape.
FIGURE 8-6: Trace off the Circle (a), Lightning Bolt (b and c), and Dog Bone (d...
FIGURE 8-7: Tape the Lightning Bolt pattern pieces B and C together, matching t...
FIGURE 8-8: On the wrong side of the lightning bolt, cut strips of Wash Away Wo...
FIGURE 8-9: Stitch around the three sides of the cape, leaving the neck edge op...
FIGURE 8-10: Trim and notch the curved seam, helping to smooth the seam once th...
FIGURE 8-11: Trimming the corners eliminates unnecessary bulk from the seam all...
FIGURE 8-12: Clip into the seam allowance of the neck edge to about ⅛ inch from...
FIGURE 8-13: Stitch the ribbon onto the outside of the neck edge and over the s...
FIGURE 8-14: Place the bone pieces together with the wrong sides facing, and ba...
FIGURE 8-15: Place, pin, and sew two short ends of print together. Press 1-inch...
FIGURE 8-16: Sew the bolster fabric into a long skinny tube, leaving an opening...
FIGURE 8-17: Turn the tube right side out and sew the hook-and-loop fastener on...
FIGURE 8-18: Fold and zigzag stitch 4-inch hems on both short ends of the fleec...
FIGURE 8-19: From the wrong side, fold and overlap the short ends of the pillow...
FIGURE 8-20: Push the bolster over the bed, and voilà — a cool and comfy pet be...
FIGURE 8-21: Fold, pin, and stitch both sides of the corn bags.
FIGURE 8-22: Sew the open ends of each bag closed, securely backstitching at ea...
FIGURE 8-23: Fold down a 1¼-inch hem on the short sides of the tote, and stitch...
FIGURE 8-24: Sew around all three sides of the tote, leaving a ½-inch opening a...
FIGURE 8-25: “Box” the bottom of the cornhole tote so it sits up straight, and ...
FIGURE 8-26: Thread the first corded bobby pin through the first casing then ar...
Chapter 9
FIGURE 9-1: Darts help your projects take shape.
FIGURE 9-2: Use tape as a stitching template and sew from the wide end to the p...
FIGURE 9-3: Mark and sew the contour dart in two steps.
FIGURE 9-4: Sew gathering stitches so one row is inside the seamline and one is...
FIGURE 9-5: Pull on the contrasting bobbin threads, adjusting gathers evenly fr...
FIGURE 9-6: Zigzag over the cord for fast, strong, and easy gathering.
FIGURE 9-7: Cut the skirt apart at the side fold (not necessarily on the side s...
FIGURE 9-8: Fold the fabric to find the true bias (a); then cut a 4-inch strip ...
FIGURE 9-9: Pink and stitch the side edges of the apron for a smooth, finished ...
FIGURE 9-10: Gather the ruffle to fit the front of the apron by adjusting fulln...
FIGURE 9-11: The two-step process of folding and pressing the apron tie makes i...
FIGURE 9-12: After sewing around all four edges of the apron string, pink the s...
FIGURE 9-13: Look for knife pleats (a), box pleats (b), inverted pleats (c), ki...
FIGURE 9-14: Marking pleats.
FIGURE 9-15: Fold pleat to placement line and stitch.
FIGURE 9-16: Pin the casing close to the elastic.
FIGURE 9-17: Be careful not to stitch through the elastic when you sew the casi...
Chapter 10
FIGURE 10-1: Position the bottom of the zipper at the clip you made at the bott...
FIGURE 10-2: Tape the zipper over the seam allowance with the zipper pulled up ...
FIGURE 10-3: Starting on the right side of the garment, sew from the bottom up,...
FIGURE 10-4: Backstitch over the zipper coil before cutting off the zipper.
FIGURE 10-5: Sew along the left side of the zipper coils from the top to the zi...
FIGURE 10-6: Move the foot over to the right and sew the second side of the zip...
FIGURE 10-7: Sew the rest of the seam using the conventional zipper foot.
FIGURE 10-8: Stitch over the ends of the zipper tape so the coil is in the “rol...
FIGURE 10-9: Use a folded paper strip to determine the correct buttonhole size.
FIGURE 10-10: Use tape to mark your buttonhole placement.
FIGURE 10-11: You may have a special buttonhole foot that looks like this one.
FIGURE 10-12: Cut open buttonholes carefully using a seam ripper.
FIGURE 10-13: Using a buttonhole cutter and block cuts clean buttonholes every ...
FIGURE 10-14: Use a pin to mark button placement for horizontal (a) and vertica...
FIGURE 10-15: Thread the button on the needle (a), use a spacer to make a threa...
FIGURE 10-16: Make sure that the needle clears the buttonholes.
FIGURE 10-17: Three ways to sew on a button.
FIGURE 10-18: You find fasteners of all shapes and sizes at your local fabric o...
Chapter 11
FIGURE 11-1: Interfacing added to the wrong side of the armhole facing provides...
FIGURE 11-2: Sew the facing together before pinning it to the armhole.
FIGURE 11-3: Clip into the seam allowance around the armhole and facing.
FIGURE 11-4: Understitch the facing seam.
FIGURE 11-5: Secure the armhole facing by stitching-in-the-ditch.
FIGURE 11-6: Staystitch from notch to notch under the arm.
FIGURE 11-7: Fold, press, and pin the binding to the wrong side of the garment ...
FIGURE 11-8: Overlap the free end over the folded end of the binding by about ½...
FIGURE 11-9: Sew the binding to the armhole using a ¼-inch seam allowance.
FIGURE 11-10: Edgestitch the band to the opening.
FIGURE 11-11: The raglan sleeve is easy to sew and very comfy.
FIGURE 11-12: When you’re working with woven fabrics, the raglan sleeve pattern...
FIGURE 11-13: Sew the dart and press it open for a smooth fit.
FIGURE 11-14: After you sew raglan sleeves onto the front and back pattern piec...
FIGURE 11-15: Sew the project together from the bottom up.
FIGURE 11-16: The seam of a set-in sleeve circles around the top of your arm an...
FIGURE 11-17: Hold your finger firmly behind the presser foot so the fabric bun...
FIGURE 11-18: Your set-in sleeve cap is eased in so it fits into the smaller ar...
FIGURE 11-19: Start sewing the side and sleeve seam starting at the hem edge.
FIGURE 11-20: Pin the sleeve into the armhole, matching dots and f...
Chapter 12
FIGURE 12-1: Fold up and press a triangle at both pocket corners.
FIGURE 12-2: Fold to enclose the triangle in the seam allowance.
FIGURE 12-3: Trim the seam allowance to ¼ inch at the pocket corners.
FIGURE 12-4: Fold the pocket facing toward the right side and stitch.
FIGURE 12-5: Turn the pocket right side out and press before attaching it to yo...
FIGURE 12-6: Easestitch-plus around each pocket corner.
FIGURE 12-7: Use a pocket former to shape your corners.
FIGURE 12-8: Leave a little slack at the top of the pocket to make sure it’s fu...
FIGURE 12-9: Use this guide to pattern your pocket in a rectangular, rounded, o...
FIGURE 12-10: Cut out and unfold your pocket patterns to reveal square (a), che...
FIGURE 12-11A, B: Fold up one end to make the pocket; then fold down the top to...
FIGURE 12-12: Fold the scarf in half the long way and pin-mark the center fold.
FIGURE 12-13: Sew a ¼-inch seam on both ends and down the center of the pocket,...
Chapter 13
FIGURE 13-1: Make double side hems 1½ inches wide.
FIGURE 13-2: Mark the buttonhole placement.
Chapter 14
FIGURE 14-1: Sew a ¼-inch hem (a), and sew from one napkin to the next without ...
FIGURE 14-2: This is what your rolled edge should look like.
FIGURE 14-3: Serge the napkins on both sides in a chain, apply sealant at the c...
FIGURE 14-4: Serged edges with rounded corners.
FIGURE 14-5: Fold each piece in half the long way and mark the center.
FIGURE 14-6: Starting at the center marks, clip or pin and sew the long sides o...
FIGURE 14-7: Fold and then press and pin each end of the runner (a, b) so the e...
Chapter 15
FIGURE 15-1: Use gimp to cover a join where the upholstery attaches to the furn...
FIGURE 15-2: Cable cord, filler cord, and chair tie.
FIGURE 15-3: When selecting fringe and decorative trims, you have a lot of grea...
FIGURE 15-4: Use a wedge under the presser foot when sewing uneven thicknesses.
FIGURE 15-5: Piping gives this pillow a finished look.
FIGURE 15-6: Find the bias.
FIGURE 15-7: Use a straight edge when you mark cutting lines.
FIGURE 15-8: Seam bias-cut fabric strips to create a casing for piping.
FIGURE 15-9: Sew the cording into the fabric casing.
FIGURE 15-10: Sew the covered cording/piping onto the right side of the base fa...
FIGURE 15-11: Using your scissor tips, clip through the piping or fringe seam a...
FIGURE 15-12: Sew cording to the outside edge of a project, beginning and endin...
FIGURE 15-13: Cut and join the cord ends with masking tape.
FIGURE 15-14: Attach the cord-edge trim by overlapping and wrapping the loose p...
FIGURE 15-15: Sew opposite sides of the pillow cover, leaving an opening for th...
FIGURE 15-16: Fold the corners at the stitching line, and then sew the other tw...
Chapter 16
FIGURE 16-1: For a perfect fit, measure your box spring after removing the matt...
FIGURE 16-2: Cut three long strips of fabric stabilizer and home décor fabric p...
FIGURE 16-3: Double the lower hem by pressing, pinning (a), and blind hemming (...
FIGURE 16-4: The completed hems, as shown on the faux pleat piece.
FIGURE 16-5: Pin (a) and stitch (b) the skirt strip and pleat pieces to the wid...
FIGURE 16-6: Place the wide facing piece on the box spring so the skirt drops t...
FIGURE 16-7: Pinch and pin the facing strip at each corner and at the sides to ...
FIGURE 16-8: Make the buttonholes on the “buttonhole hem.”
FIGURE 16-9: Cut the back cover piece using the front cover piece as a pattern.
FIGURE 16-10: Rubber-band the corners of your duvet to the cover before turning...
Chapter 17
FIGURE 17-1: Unfold the hem facing tape, sew it to the hem edge, and then sew t...
FIGURE 17-2: Fold the band in half the long way and then fold the band up creat...
FIGURE 17-3: Quarter mark the ribbing and garment opening.
FIGURE 17-4: Move the button over to shorten a too-long sleeve: before (a) and ...
FIGURE 17-5: Mark the new cuff position and trim off the excess sleeve fabric.
FIGURE 17-6: Pin on the cuff.
FIGURE 17-7: Use a wedge to maneuver over thick seams.
FIGURE 17-8: Add room to a double-breasted jacket by moving the buttons.
FIGURE 17-9: Waistband too tight? Add a fabric extension to the center back.
FIGURE 17-10: Waistline too loose? Take it in.
FIGURE 17-11: After ripping out the side seam up to where you no longer need ex...
FIGURE 17-12: Make the pattern for the gusset and cut it out.
FIGURE 17-13: Lay the jacket opening over the gusset (with the wrong side of th...
Chapter 18
FIGURE 18-1: Pin (a) and sew the split together, sewing ½ inch before and beyon...
FIGURE 18-2: Pin the patch in place and sew it on with a three-step zigzag stit...
FIGURE 18-3: Fuse the tear with interfacing before sewing over it.
FIGURE 18-4: Pin the patch, centering it under the hole, so that the right side...
FIGURE 18-5: Push the needle through the right side of the fabric and bring the...
FIGURE 18-6: Cut two felt pieces that make the thimble pocket 2½ inches square;...
FIGURE 18-7: Start at the metal end of the measuring tape to pin and sew around...
FIGURE 18-8: Cut a small slit into the felt pocket piece and then stitch the po...
FIGURE 18-9: Fold the narrow ribbon in half, placing it on the inside of one th...
FIGURE 18-10: Pin the thimble pocket ribbon to the end of a wider ribbon with t...
FIGURE 18-11: Pin the ends of the wider ribbon together so the (a) thimble pock...
FIGURE 18-12: Stitch around the perimeter of the ribbon/braid, leaving a small ...
Chapter 19
FIGURE 19-1: Trace off the hat pattern piece.
FIGURE 19-2: Cut six hat pieces from the front and back of the felted sweater.
FIGURE 19-3: Make each side of the hat separately, sewing and topstitching thre...
FIGURE 19-4: Sew the two hat halves together (a), press the seam open, and then...
FIGURE 19-5: Pin the ribbing to the hat. Then sew (a) or serge it (b) using a ¼...
FIGURE 19-6: Place the lace over the front yokes so you can determine the shape...
FIGURE 19-7: Trim the lace to fit over the yokes, making it large enough that i...
FIGURE 19-8: Place and pin the lace over each yoke so the right side of the lac...
FIGURE 19-9: Clip through the denim yoke slit and then cut away the denim yoke ...
FIGURE 19-10: Attach the lace to the bottom of the jacket.
FIGURE 19-11: Cut off the sweatshirt bands; cut the jeans just below the crotch...
FIGURE 19-12: Cut through the jeans so you have two jean sections (a), and cut ...
FIGURE 19-13: Pin the jean sections to the bottom of the sweatshirt so about 9 ...
FIGURE 19-14: Carefully rip the pocket topstitching to the point where it meets...
FIGURE 19-15: Sew the jeans into the sweatshirt and cut off the extra jeans fab...
FIGURE 19-16: Press the ripped pocket down so it makes a flap.
FIGURE 19-17: Sew the bottom of the pocket closed and add an optional button.
FIGURE 19-18: Preparing the printed pocket flap.
FIGURE 19-19: Fold, pin, and stitch the pocket in place; then tack down the fla...
Guide
Cover
Table of Contents
Title Page
Copyright
Foreword
Begin Reading
Index
About the Author
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Sewing For Dummies®, 4thEdition
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Library of Congress Control Number: 2024946907
ISBN 978-1-394-27955-5 (pbk); ISBN 978-1-394-27958-6 (ebk); ISBN 978-1-394-27956-2 (ebk)
Foreword
I can still remember that feeling when I turned my first pillowcase right side out. I felt fulfilled — joyous even. I was at a period in my life when not much made sense to me, but this simple act of creation quieted all that despairing noise. I could see the younger me, a seventh grader, sitting in Mrs. Hurley’s Home Economics class while she explained how to use a sewing machine. The other boys were goofing off, but I was rapt. In my adolescent mind, sewing slid easily into the space reserved for my other “unmanly” interests, like cooking and gardening. I didn’t expect I would turn to it when I was at a particularly low point in my late twenties; it just sort of happened. I also didn’t expect that sewing that first pillowcase would change my life, but that too just sort of happened.
Whatever has led you to pick up sewing, I want to be the first to welcome you to this incredible community. After starting my home décor company, Sewing Down South, which focused in the beginning on —what else? — pillows, my business partner and I traveled the East Coast, selling our pillows at local boutiques where we met folks just like you. There was the high-school football player who showed me his creations with sheepish pride, and there was the young woman, fighting cancer and bound to a wheelchair, who just wanted to talk about sewing. It was then that I saw how a simple craft had the power to inspire and unite people — young and old, man and woman — from all walks of life. All of this happened because one day I sat down at a sewing machine. Pretty crazy, right?
We never know where our passions will lead us, but allow me to give you a preview of one of the many happy surprises that await. Do you know what’s better than finishing your first sewing project? Giving it away as a gift. It’s like sharing happiness. People understand that when they receive one of our sewn creations, they are getting more than a pillow or a hat or a blanket. They’re getting the time, the focus, the love that we put into that item. Sewing is one of the few creative endeavors I know of that usually begins with the future owner in mind: a child, a spouse, or just us. We create for someone, and they will be just as happy to receive it as we were in making it. Trust me, you’ll crush gift-giving over the holidays.
I didn’t start to sew because one day I wanted to make it a business. I did it for the joy of creation, of using my hands to turn a collection of material into something useful. I think that gets to the heart of why sewing drew me in the way it did. It is an artistic process, but one that leads to something useful: the blanket to stay warm, the pillow to rest our head, or just a way to jazz up an old garment. As your skills improve, the range of useful items you can craft will be limited only by your imagination — and perhaps time. When we do it right, the item enters our lives and becomes a part of us. We can create permanence with our sewing, salvaging what we own and creating what we need. Sewing stands out as both a skill and an artistic endeavor.
Everything in our modern world pushes us away from creating something ourselves. Most people will never need to know how to stitch a button, hem a dress, or fashion a curtain. By reading this book, you’ve chosen to rekindle an old-fashioned idea: to make what you use, what you give, and what you love. Whether as a hobby, a passion, or a business, sewing connects you to the act of creation. Embrace the passion that has led you here and get excited about the journey ahead. Sewing might not change your life like it changed mine, but I promise it will lead to many moments of joyful fulfillment.
CRAIG CONOVER
Cofounder, Sewing Down South
Introduction
I. Love. To. Sew.
First, there’s the instant gratification of creating something unique and stylish using beautiful fabrics and cool tools. Then comes the glory — I get to bask in the praise for my handiwork from family and friends. Plus, whether it’s an upstyled top for myself or a new bed skirt for the guestroom, I can make custom pieces that fit perfectly — and save some money in the process. What a hobby!
My goal for Sewing For Dummies is that, once you finish a couple of projects, you become as hooked on sewing as I am — or at least want to keep on learning because this book has piqued your interest.
Throughout my professional life and thousands of hours of sewing for myself, my family, and my home, I’ve gathered these sewing techniques and more — each contributing to my deep passion for the craft. Every time I sit in front of my sewing machine, I reignite this passion.
My deepest wish for you is that when reading this book, you hear my voice cheering you on. And then, the next time you have a beautiful piece of fabric in your hands, and you sit in front of your sewing machine, your passion for sewing will bloom like mine has. Enjoy every moment of your creative journey!
About This Book
Sewing For Dummies, 4th Edition, is a book for anyone who’s ever said, “I want to learn how to sew.” There’s a lot to know about sewing, but I have only so many pages to work with in this book, so I’ve tried to organize things logically. First I walk you through the sewing process used in making clothing. Then I move on to ways to sew for your home and how to repair and remake existing clothing for a more sustainable wardrobe.
If you’re a stone-cold beginner, don’t worry — I’ve got you covered. I’ll explain everything you need to know to tackle your first sewing project, starting with the basics. No prior experience is required.
If you’ve already tackled a variety of sewing projects, there’s plenty in this book for you, too. It’s packed with tips and tricks that took me years (and lots of mistakes) to learn. So, regardless of your skill level, you’ll find a selection of projects to enjoy that will improve your sewing skills.
Because it’s all about going green these days, I’ve also taken a fresh approach to this edition. Many projects now start with a pre-loved garment that, with a bit of sewing ingenuity, gets a new life. The rest have been designed to follow the latest fashion trends and our sleek, streamlined, clutter-free lives.
I wrote this book to be your ultimate sewing companion. Don’t just shelve it away for future reference — make it a constant companion in your sewing adventures. Keep it within arm’s reach so that when a pattern guide sheet instructs you to do something, you can refer to the way I suggest you do it. I promise you’ll find the fastest and most efficient techniques to get the job done right.
Onto the best part — this book has more than 80 new instructive illustrations! They say a picture is worth a thousand words, and these visuals enhance the clear, no-nonsense instructions that For Dummies books are famous for, ensuring your success. Plus, you still get my favorite sewing techniques and clever shortcuts that took me years to master.
And don’t worry — I’ve made every sewing mistake possible, so you won’t have to! So, thread your needle, fire up your machine, and get ready to sew!
As you sew, you’ll rely heavily on the trusty tools in your Sewing Survival Kit, which I detail in Chapter 2. I’ve written this book assuming you have and use these essential tools. So keep it handy and well stocked — you’ll need it for just about every project in this book.
You’ll also come across instructions you can complete using either a sewing machine or a serger (sometimes both). Now, let me tell you about the serger. This specialized machine is like the microwave oven of sewing. It sews the seam, overcasts the edge, and trims off the excess fabric all at once, saving you loads of time. Although you won’t usually create an entire project on a serger, it’s a game-changer for speeding up the sewing process.
Foolish Assumptions
As I wrote this book, I made some assumptions about you and your needs:
You don’t yet know how to sew or are looking for a refresher course.
You want to master the basics of sewing.
You’re on the hunt for tips and tricks to make your sewing projects easier and more fun.
You’re eager to start sewing as soon as possible.
If this sounds like you, you’ve picked up the right book!
Icons Used in This Book
Throughout this book, I guide you toward important points by using the following icons:
When I want to give you “my two cents,” I’ve included this icon. My comments range from important details to quick reminders or shortcuts to keep up your sewing momentum while learning and improving your skills.
Some sewing tools are essential to sewing, and others aren’t essential but are still nice to have as you sew. Try out the tools mentioned next to this icon — you may find one that helps you quite a bit with the sort of projects you like to do.
Next to this icon you find information you should keep in the back of your mind as you sew. These points are key to creative and efficient sewing.
The information next to this icon tells you how to do something in the quickest and best way possible.
Make sure to read the text next to this icon. It can save you a lot of blood, sweat, and tears.
Beyond the Book
Want another handy sewing tool? Then read my Cheat Sheet at www.dummies.com or even print it off and keep it where you can find it (like on the bulletin board or wall near your sewing station). This guide is packed with the information you need when you need it, such as how to shop and coordinate fabrics for an outfit and how to harmonize your fabrics to outfit your home. You’ll also find a reference for choosing the right needle for specific fabrics in both the American and the European equivalent needle sizes. Handy. Handy. Handy. To get the Cheat Sheet, visit www.dummies.com and type Sewing For Dummies Cheat Sheet in the search box.
I created more fun sewing projects than this book could accommodate. Fortunately, they’re available to you at Dummies.com! Visit www.dummies.com/go/sewingfd4e to access the supply lists and instructions for the additional projects, including clutch handbags, pillow shams, a tablecloth, pajama bottoms, and more!
Where to Go from Here
If you’re new to sewing, begin your journey with chapters in Parts 1 and 2. These sections offer essential information to get you started. Once you’ve grasped the basics, feel free to jump around the book, exploring the different types of sewing and the projects that catch your eye.
Part 1
Ready…Set…Sew!
IN THIS PART …
Understand what tools will enable you to come out with a project that’s the envy of your friend circle. I tell you about the most important sewing tools (out of thousands) so you can buy the best quality you can afford and have the most useful tools in your Sewing Survival Kit.
Figure out how to make your sewing machine purr, how to get needles that glide through the fabric without skipping a stitch, and what type of thread to use to tie it all together.
Discover the fabulous world of fabrics and patterns. This dynamic duo takes your journey from
meh
to
marvelous
!
Chapter 1
The World of Sewing from 30,000 Feet
IN THIS CHAPTER
Prioritizing sewing as your next “Big Thing”
Peeking at the sewing process — stitching, seaming, and finishing touches
Understanding the penny-wise perks and eco-friendly benefits of the craft
Why sew? For starters, it’s fun. There’s nothing quite like the thrill of making something useful and beautiful and then basking in the “oohs and aahs” from friends and family. Also, what you learn about fabrics, fibers, and fashion helps you in other areas of your life. I talk about this more in the “Understanding fabrics and fibers” section later in this chapter.
Sewing can be a rewarding hobby or a productive pastime. You can sew Halloween costumes, teddy bears, prom dresses, and purses. Think of the fashions in home décor. A tablescape isn’t complete without some great-looking linens — that you can make, of course. You can update your house by making a wardrobe of pillows with a set of covers for every season or by sewing a new duvet cover. And gifts? Prepare to be the hero who rolls up with a handmade throw or a basket brimming with hand-stitched napkins.
If you’re looking for more of a sewing challenge, you may want to learn about quilting. It’s a subset of sewing that’s popular and creative, and you end up with a beauty to wrap yourself in or a smaller wall-hanging. Because quilting is such a large part of the world of sewing, it has its own place in the For Dummies library. Check out Quilting For Dummies by Cheryl Fall (Wiley).
My hope is that after you get to know more about this creative endeavor and have some success with the projects in this book, you’ll spread your wings and investigate the larger world of sewing.
If you are new to sewing, make sure to read this chapter. It’s an overview of what you’ll need for any sewing project — the tools and fabrics, plus a bit about your sewing machine. Next I cover the process —like preshrinking the fabric, choosing a pattern, and the importance of pressing as you sew. Finally, I explain the basics of turning a flat piece of fabric into a usable piece for yourself or your home or to upcycle an item that keeps it from the landfill a bit longer.
Sewing isn’t just creating; it’s adding your signature flair. So grab that thimble. It’s time to make the mundane magnificent!
Getting Started: Gathering Tools, Fabric, Pattern, and Your Sewing Machine
You could whip up a five-course meal over an open fire with old, beat-up pots and pans, but let’s be honest — it wouldn’t be much fun. The same goes for sewing. Trying to tackle a project with dull shears, crooked pins, and a basic hand needle might leave you less than inspired. In this section, I guide you through the essential tools and materials needed to make your sewing experience a success and a lot of fun.
Using good tools
For me, the joy of sewing is having quality tools at my fingertips. Sure, good tools are an investment, but if you’re serious about learning to sew, nothing gets you closer to success than the pleasure of using a quality tool that works perfectly every time you use it. Not sure if you’ll like sewing but still want to try it? Take a sewing class at your local fabric store or sewing machine dealer where you can use great tools and quality equipment.
Besides the fabric and pattern, here’s what will make your sewing experience a real pleasure:
Measuring tools for small and large areas of a project:
I love my 6-inch adjustable sewing gauge, my flexible vinyl tape measure, and the see-through 24-inch and 36-inch T-square rulers with ¼-inch increments.
Cutting tools for cutting out your project:
I use 8-inch bent-handle dressmaking shears, 5-inch scissors for trimming smaller areas, and embroidery scissors for clipping and ripping out unwanted stitches. For long and straight cutting, the pizza cutter–type rotary cutter with a cutting mat to protect the table is the best.
Marking tools to show you how to turn a flat, shapeless piece of fabric into something useful:
You need a marking tool for dark-colored fabrics and one for light-colored fabrics. I have two favorites. For dark fabrics I like the disappearing dressmaker’s chalk that washes out with water. For light fabrics, I use an air-soluble marker. Keep in mind that the ink disappears within 24–48 hours, so don’t mark your fabric and go on a two-week vacation!
Pins and pin holders:
My favorite pins for 90 percent of the sewing I do are 1¼-inch glass-head pins often referred to as
quilting pins
. To keep my pins from ending up all over the place, I use two magnetic pin catchers: one for the ironing board and one on the cutting table. I also like a wrist pin cushion with a felt cushion so my pins are portable.
New hand and machine needles:
After some use, needles wear out and need to be discarded. As far as hand needles go, specialty needles are available for just about every hand-sewing task. I most often use self-threading needles for basic hand sewing and easy repairs. I used these even before I needed reading glasses because the thread just clips into place — no squinting and poking thread ends through a microscopic eye required.
Thread to hold everything together:
Be sure not to skimp on the thread — when you see three spools for $1, run away. The quality of that thread isn’t worth the spool it’s wound on. Read more about choosing quality thread in
Chapter 2
.
A good sewing machine to enjoy the sewing experience:
I said you need a
good
machine, not an
expensive
one — and it doesn’t have to be new. Just buy it from a reputable sewing machine dealer that can offer you reliable service and lessons if you need them. Check out
Chapter 21
for more information.
A serger —
if
you discover that you like to sew and want to take your newfound skill to a new level you might want a serger.
You don’t need a serger but it makes the sewing process faster and more streamlined, like the microwave oven does for cooking. For more on what a serger can do and why you might want one, see
Chapter 5
.
Iron and ironing board:
If you want to sew, you must have an ironing board and a steam iron. When looking for a steam iron, find one that
does not
automatically shut off when you’re not using it. If your iron shuts off automatically, then every time you want to press a seam, you must wait until the iron comes up to temperature, which is a real time-waster.
I spend some time in Chapter 2 sharing my favorite tools with you, so check it out.
Understanding fabrics and fibers
Among the perks of learning to sew is gaining more knowledge about fabrics and fibers and how they respond to washing (or not), wearing, and pressing. Ultimately this knowledge makes you a savvier shopper of ready-to-wear garments. So what’s the difference between fiber and fabric?
Fabrics are woven or knitted yarns, which are created by twisting fibers together. Whether the fabric is all wool or a cotton-polyester blend, each fiber has its unique advantages and disadvantages, which makes one better than others for a particular project. (See more specific information about the most common types of fibers and fabrics in Chapter 3.)
If you aren’t sure about your fabric choice, the sales associate at your local fabric store is a great resource for locating just the right fabric for the project. Most have knowledge it would take you years to learn, so don’t be shy. Ask for help, tell them what you want to make, and ask for their best advice. This can save you time and guide you on your way to success.
Your time and effort are worth something. Spend your sewing time wisely by buying the best fabric you can afford and the best fiber for your project and your lifestyle. See Chapter 3 for more on choosing the best fabric for a project.
Getting the sewing notion
Most fabric stores have a notions wall that’s full of specialty tools and sewing stuff. Notions range from pins, needles, scissors, shears, and measuring tools to buttons, bra hooks, collar stays, and iron-on knee patches. The notions needed for a particular project are listed on the back of your pattern envelope, so when in doubt, look there to find out what you need. Don’t be afraid to ask for help locating things. What you need may be hidden in plain sight.
Pondering the pattern
Fabric stores have over-the-counter displays and catalogs of patterns that you can browse through. The internet brings sewing patterns home and puts the right project just a keystroke away. Type in the project you want to make with sewing pattern after it to find tons of choices. Internet searches also make investigating independent pattern designers easy.
Choose a pattern designed for your skill set. If a pattern says it’s easy, the instruction writers often still assume you have some knowledge of sewing, so if you’re a true beginner, choose patterns for beginners. If you don’t, you may become discouraged and never sew again! Simplicity Pattern Company (https://simplicity.com) is an umbrella for all the major pattern brands, such as “The Big 4” of Simplicity, McCall’s, Vogue, and Butterick. When visiting this website, you also see Know Me, New Look, and Burda Style patterns.
After you choose the pattern, check out the front and back of the envelope for important information: what fabric works best to achieve the results pictured on the front of the envelope, how much fabric to buy for the garment size you’re making, what you need in the way of trims and notions (see the preceding section), and the front and back views shown in easy-to-read line drawings.
Inside the envelope is an instruction sheet commonly referred to as the pattern guide sheet.
