Spaniel Survival Guide E-Book

Jacqueline Boyd

• Herausgeber: The Crowood Press
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 306

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

Spaniels are some of the most popular dog breeds, fulfilling working and companion roles in society. While spaniels are typically sociable, outgoing, optimistic and friendly, they have retained many traits reflective of their working gundog origins, such as hunting, retrieving, speed and stamina. These remain essential for working Spaniels, but for Spaniels and their caregivers who find themselves in a more domestic situation, these traits can sometimes prove challenging. This book is an essential guide for anyone who lives with or is thinking about living with spaniels and wants to understand them more. Written by a canine scientist with decades of experience with cocker spaniels, this book explores the origin, care, management and training of spaniels. It considers how to develop a responsive and supportive relationship with your spaniel, and examines practical and fair training approaches to support health, welfare and behaviour in a clear and accessible way.

Leseprobe

CONTENTS

Introduction

1 Choosing Your Spaniel

2 Spaniel Care and Training

3 Understanding Your Spaniel

4 Life Skills for Spaniels and Their People

5 Essential Skills for the Spaniel in Your Sitting Room

6 Whistle While You Work

7 Really Good Recall

8 Harnessing the Hunter

9 The Active Spaniel

10 Surviving Spaniels

Further Reading

Index

INTRODUCTION: THE SPANIEL SURVIVAL GUIDE – YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIVING WITH SPANIELS

I saw the puppy instantly. A little blue roan Cocker Spaniel, front feet on the mesh of the kennel door and a tail wagging furiously. My first spaniel. The arrival of ‘Megan’ was a pivotal event in my world. Here I am twenty odd years later, surrounded by spaniels, writing about them. I did not start out with spaniels but with labradors and poodles. I still have soft spots for these breeds. However, spaniels and particularly cockers, have absolutely stolen my heart and ‘got under my skin’.

In the years since Megan sparked my enthusiasm for spaniels, I have built a personal and professional life around animals, dogs particularly. Thanks to spaniels, I have made epic mistakes. I have been made to look an absolute fool. I have had to extricate myself from hilariously awkward situations. I have had some of the absolute best days of my life and some of the absolute worst. I have competed and demonstrated at Crufts, the world’s biggest dog show. I have laughed and cried, cuddled, and cared for spaniels. I have made lifelong friends (human and canine) and had experiences that I never dreamed of. As well as all of that, I have had the companionship and love (yes, I will call it love) of some of the most wonderful canine friends that I will never forget. All of this was possible because of that little blue roan Cocker Spaniel puppy and the wonderful dog she became.

Success in a gundog working test with Molly (Millsey Pinot of Clonameg AWS) and her daughter, Mini-Moo (Clonameg Miorbhail Dubh).

Megan gave me the spaniel bug and before I knew it, I had a multi-spaniel household – something I now understand is a not-uncommon occurrence. I currently live with six cocker spaniels, all loosely related to Megan if I go far enough back in their pedigrees (although this is pretty standard with pedigreed dogs anyway). I have lived with dogs and bitches and experienced the quirks and characters of each. I have seen puppies whelped and grow into fabulous companions, working and sporting dogs. I have rehomed spaniels and known puppies from the minute they came into the world. I have been there as they took their last breath and broke my heart, something I know will happen time and time again. I have thoroughly invested myself into spaniels, and cockers especially.

Most of all, I have learned and still am learning. This is one of the wonderful things about dogs - sharing your life with them means you have to learn and be eternally curious. Knowing what makes them tick and how to live harmoniously with dogs is essential. For spaniels in particular, their ancestry, and other characteristics, can create specific challenges that can test the patience and resilience of even the most laid-back caregiver.

This brings me to this book. I have wanted to write a book about living with spaniels for a long time. If I had spent as much time writing as I have spent talking about ‘my book idea’, this could have been finished years ago. Megan started this – my passion for a breed and a deep desire to make the world a better place for dogs and their people.

WHY THE SPANIEL SURVIVAL GUIDE?

The humanisation and altered role of dogs in society has resulted in a weird paradox. We know more about dogs, their behaviour, health, nutrition and overall biology than ever before. Dogs should have wonderful lives, but they don’t always. Behaviour problems and concerns are increasingly common and, for many spaniels, caregivers struggle with self-hunting, frustration and separation related behaviours, recall issues and extreme resource possessiveness. Health issues as a result of genetic conditions or lifestyle are increasingly problematic. Meeting the intrinsic needs of spaniels and remembering their ancestry and origin is more important now than ever, thanks to their popularity and the changed expectations of dogs in society.

Spaniel puppies with a fun-filled life ahead of them.

The joy of spaniels.

This book is intended for anyone who lives with or thinks they would like to live with a spaniel as a companion. This is not just a manual about the care and training of spaniels. There are many other fabulous resources available that offer more in-depth advice and guidance about the specifics of care and management, as well as the intricacies of training. Instead, this is a collection of lessons I have learned and things I wish I knew initially, with a liberal sprinkling of the various trials and tribulations that living with spaniels brings. There is also coverage of some of the most common challenges that novice spaniel caregivers experience.

One thing that cannot be underestimated though, is the absolute joy my spaniels bring into my life, and this book is very much a celebration of that. My hope is that this book deepens our appreciation and understanding of spaniels and who they are and how to use that understanding to create a mutually harmonious and happy life together.

Welcome to Re Spaniel Survival Guide – buckle up, because like everything with spaniels, it is likely to be a little manic, might lose focus at times and be occasionally distracted, but is ultimately loyal and true. I hope that you enjoy this book, whether you are a seasoned spaniel ‘carer,’ new to spaniels, a dog-lover or someone who appreciates the depth and value of the human-animal bond and wants to learn about the joy of ‘surviving spaniels.’

CHAPTER 1

CHOOSING YOUR SPANIEL

Is a spaniel for you? Will a spaniel make a fantastic family member and companion? What should you know before considering a spaniel? And, most importantly, how do you choose your spaniel once you have decided that a spaniel is for you?

A family spaniel.

SO, YOU FANCY A SPANIEL?

Spaniels are some of the most popular dogs globally. They make wonderful companions as well as dedicated work colleagues. Characterised by pendulous ears, medium height, and a happy, congenial and active personality, it is no surprise that spaniels remain firm family favourites. Indeed, the Cocker Spaniel is often known as ‘the merry Cocker’. Add to these characteristics, biddability, trainability, intelligence and an optimistic outlook, plus decades of selection for desirable working traits such as hunting and retrieving. As a result, spaniels also remain popular as working gundogs and in a number of other functional roles such as detection dogs in, for example, for law enforcement, safety (explosives detection), forensics (cadaver and arson detection), conservation detection and even to detect diseases and medical conditions in their human partners.

THE HISTORY OF SPANIELS

The word ‘spaniel’ is thought to originate from the old French word ‘espaigneul’ meaning Spanish, as spaniels were thought to originate from Spain. Spaniels were hunting partners, bred to push (flush or ‘spring’) game birds out of dense plant cover to be shot, initially by arrows and then by guns. These dogs then found and retrieved the shot game back to their handlers. They were classified as being land spaniels, water spaniels or toy spaniels. Over the years, specific breeds and types developed, based on the jobs they undertook and the environment in which they were going to work. This caused changes to size, shape, colour and even subtle behavioural differences too, many of which we see in the variety of spaniel breeds and types found today.

Spaniels remain popular as working gundogs, often working alongside other breeds.

SPANIEL BREEDS AND TYPES

Spaniels are now a diverse group of dogs, ranging in size from small breeds such as the Cavalier King Charles Spaniel and American Cocker Spaniel, to the medium-sized gundog breeds of Springer and Cocker Spaniels. The Sussex, Field, Welsh and Clumber Spaniels are less commonly seen spaniel breeds in the UK, but breed afficionados continue to promote them and demonstrate their working ability, characteristics and personalities. There are also geographical specific spaniels such as the Boykin spaniel in the USA.

The much larger and very distinctive Irish Water Spaniel has a characteristic densely curled coat and long, whiplike tail. They have long ears and retain a typical spaniel-like, fun-loving personality. However, the Irish Water Spaniel is more accurately viewed as a retriever in terms of working and training expectations.

In terms of popularity, the Cocker Spaniel and Springer Spaniel remain two of the most numerically common, registered breeds. Their congeniality, biddability, size and even societal familiarity mean they are and are likely to remain firm favourites in the dog world. The minority spaniel breeds, mixes and crosses all retain similar physical and behavioural characteristics too, albeit with their own specific breed standards, idiosyncrasies and distinctive characteristics. Your individual preferences and lifestyle situation requirements are likely to play a part in deciding if and what type of spaniel is ideal for you.

Spaniels and spaniel crosses

Spaniels are often described as ‘clown-like’ and often have impressive comic timing, as well as the ability to create hilarious and sometimes embarrassing situations for their people. It is strongly recommended that you have a sense of humour if you intend to share your life with a spaniel!

These traits can be seen across the many classic, recognised breeds of spaniels, as well as the various crosses including the common ‘sprocker spaniel’ (springer-cocker cross). Many spaniel characteristics will also be seen in other common crosses with labradors (‘springador’ or ‘cockador’) or collies (‘sprollies’), although to a lesser extent, thanks to the genetic influence of the other breeds.

Spaniels are a diverse group of different breeds and types, all with the typical long, pendulous ears.

A ‘sprocker’ spaniel – a cross between a Springer Spaniel and a Cocker Spaniel.

Spaniels are sensitive souls

Spaniels are sensitive souls and do not take well to harsh or punitive handling. Because spaniels can appear outwardly very ‘busy’, this can often disguise their sensitive side. A spaniel that suddenly starts ‘the zoomies’ – frantic running in circles – is most probably indicating that they are conflicted in how best to respond to a given situation. They are not being ‘bad’ or ‘disobedient’. They can also worry about situations that might have scared them or made them feel uncomfortable. This is why fair, empathetic training and positive associations with the world are so important to support your spaniel throughout life and the sooner you can build a relationship on these grounds with your puppy, the better.

Show-line spaniels versus working-line spaniels

An important distinction to be aware of – especially with Cockers and Springers – is the difference between ‘show bred’ dogs and ‘working-bred’ dogs. For some of the minority spaniel breeds such as the Sussex, Field and Clumber, the distinction between working and show lines is less pronounced, although some breeders select and breed specifically for the show ring or working ability.

Early training and positive world experiences are essential for your spaniel puppy.

In the case of pedigree Springers and Cockers in the UK, they are registered simply as ‘Spaniel (springer)’ or ‘Spaniel (cocker)’ without distinction of whether they are originally from showing lines or working lines. This can be confusing to new spaniel caregivers – how do you know if a dog comes from show lines or working lines, and what should you expect? This can be important because some working line spaniels are the canine version of a Formula 1 car – wonderful dogs but potentially not the best choice for a sedate and spaniel-inexperienced family home.

Firstly, if you are looking for a puppy, a responsible breeder will advise you clearly on the origin of your puppy, their ancestry and what this means for their temperament and personality. Looking at pedigrees can also be helpful. Many kennel names will be associated with specific activities and sporting disciplines, and you can quickly become familiar with the show kennel names and the working kennel names. If you are absolutely new to spaniels, it is strongly recommended to seek advice from other spaniel caregivers about breeders or other organisations that might be supportive in your search.

A kennel name, also known as an ‘affix’, is a consistent name or word that appears in the registered names of all dogs from a specific kennel/registered owner(s). A kennel name needs to be registered with the relevant country of residence’s kennel club/registration organisation before use but can then be added to the name of dogs owned or bred by that kennel and caregiver who holds the affix. Where the kennel name appears at the start of a registered name (the prefix), it indicates the dog was bred by that kennel. If it appears at the end of a registered name (the suffix), then the dog was bred and brought in from elsewhere.

Other ways to get a feel for the origin and ancestry of your spaniel is to look for other indications of purpose or competitive success on any registered names. This will typically be seen as letters added to the start or end of a dog’s registered (rather than their pet/call) name. If you see registered names in the pedigree with ShCh as a prefix, this indicates the dog is a show champion and has excelled in the show ring. FTCh, FTAW or FTW indicate that the dog has excelled in field trials, as a field trial champion, field trial award winner or field trial winner, although FTCh is the only official title that is utilised – others tend to be used to indicate a dog’s success and for awareness by others. There are other titles and awards that will also be seen adjacent to registered names, and these will indicate achievement and success in a range of other activities.

Megan – my first cocker who gave rise to my affix ‘Clonameg’ – a portmanteau of 'clone a Megan’.

Millsey Pinot of Clonameg AWS. The AWS signifies that she achieved her silver agility warrant award.

Spaniels from showing lines have heavier coats, more feathering on their legs and undercarriage and are more aligned with the typical physical and colour ‘breed standard’ expectations than working bred spaniels. Show bred dogs may be slightly less naturally ‘driven’ than working-line dogs, meaning they might naturally be less active, but not always.

Dogs bred with ‘lots of red’ in the pedigree means there are many ancestors who have excelled and been titled. This can be a sign of thoughtful breeding and careful selection. It may also indicate that working-line dogs bred in this way are highly driven and likely to need significant physical and mental stimulation. Be prepared to meet those needs in such spaniels, otherwise life can be miserable for you both.

However, there is as much potential for variation within these groups as there is between them. There is no guarantee that a working-bred spaniel will be more energetic than a show-bred spaniel. It is quite possible for show-bred dogs to work well and be successful in sporting activities. However, it is unlikely that working-bred dogs would meet the show breed standard or be successful in the show ring.

IS A SPANIEL RIGHT FOR YOU?

Your ambitions and intent may determine your choice of spaniel – if you aspire to grace the show ring, then looking for show-bred lines is a very sensible place to start. Breeders will also be able to advise on how to get started with ring craft and the nuances of show ring etiquette.

If your ambitions are less show ring and more activity based (active pet, working gundog, agility, canicross) then a working-line spaniel might be a good fit. For companionship, either show- or working-bred will fit the bill and your decision might come down to the time to be spent caring for your spaniel’s coat and how active your everyday lifestyle is or is not.

Whatever you do choose, when you bring a spaniel into your life, be prepared for a happy, fun-loving companion who will become an integral part of your life and lifestyle, providing you with joy, laughter and delightful companionship.

If you really want to know if a spaniel is for you, consider if you are happy to regularly venture outside in all weathers to join them for exercise – they are active dogs after all! Even the smaller spaniel breeds enjoy exercise, so do not think they will be sofa dogs only.

Consider your time availability and desire to care for their coat, especially those ears that can be prone to developing mats and dreadlocks overnight. Spaniels often ‘acquire’ vegetation, twigs and other plant material during their expeditions, as well as enjoying mud and water – can you cope? While regular grooming is an essential part of all canine management, a thick, heavy coat does need daily attention and care, so needs to be factored into your time budget.

Spaniels are also loyal companions and actively enjoy the company of their people, often over the company of other dogs. They can become ‘little shadows’, determined to be in your presence whenever possible. I was once told that spaniels would get under your skin if they could – this is certainly something I have experienced with mine. Even reticent spaniels will occasionally choose to spend time in close proximity to you. This can be endearing or annoying, depending on your perspective, so is definitely something to be aware of. It can also lead to potential concerns about separation-related behaviours, so careful management and supportive training can help you and your spaniel live in harmony together.

Spaniels often become little shadows and will typically choose to spend lots of time in very close proximity, if given the chance.

FINDING YOUR SPANIEL FRIEND

You might already have everything planned and know exactly who is coming to live with you and when. Alternatively, you might be just starting to consider how best to find your new spaniel friend and what you should look for.

There are different options open to you. You might want to experience puppyhood. You might already know that you really dislike the puppy stages and would prefer to rehome an older spaniel, either through personal connections or via a rehoming organisation or charity. Each have pros and cons, and it is important to consider what will work best for you AND your new companion.

Spaniels make for fabulous canine counterparts.

Getting a puppy

For many people, a puppy is the first option considered. You get the joy (and occasional stress and worry!) of seeing a puppy grow and develop. If you have ambitions to train for specific activities, you can start building training foundations from the first day that puppy comes home. Some people absolutely adore the puppy stage and relish the time spent caring and training. For others, the puppy stage is something to be endured until a more mature dog ‘emerges’ a few months later.

Puppyhood can be an absolute joy or something to be endured, depending on your perspective!

Finding a breeder

Finding a breeder of a suitable puppy is the first step. While many puppies are advertised, do plan ahead –sometimes months and years – to get a puppy from a breeder that aligns with your desires and also to get a puppy that meets your needs. A good breeder will make sure that you can meet the puppy’s needs too! Many new canine caregivers spend more time researching their next car than a puppy who will be an integral part of their lives for at least a decade. Time spent planning and researching your puppy is absolutely time well spent.

There are commercial breeders with several breeds of dogs and produce multiple litters per year. There are also hobby breeders who rarely breed, usually have a single breed of dog, and will only produce a litter when they wish to keep their breeding lines going. You might also come across people who have simply decided that they want their bitch to have a litter. Occasionally, puppies end up with rehoming organisations too, so it can be worth being registered with these if you would like a puppy to join your household.

There are pros and cons to where you source your puppy. It is useful to speak to people with spaniels of the breed and type that you like, asking them where their spaniel is from. This can be a great way of making connections with breeders that might not otherwise be possible – many small breeders never advertise. Be aware of local regulations regarding dog breeding and animal welfare too – there are limitations and commercial, high-volume breeders need to be compliant.

Look for stud dog success in canine disciplines as an indication of what their puppies might be like – this is a father and son, both placed in the same agility class.

Good breeders expose their puppies to lots of beneficial experiences before they leave.

If you are interested in specific canine activities, look for the registered names of successful and competing dogs as a way of identifying their breeding. This can help you identify specific lines that you can explore intended breeding plans for, or to identify stud dogs who are producing offspring with the attributes that you like.

YOUR PUPPY SEARCH

There are plenty of things to bear carefully in mind when you begin searching for your perfect puppy, both positive and negative:

RED FLAGS TO WATCH OUT FOR IN YOUR PUPPY SEARCH:

• A breeder who has multiple breeds and produces many litters per year (these can look very slick in terms of marketing and have impressive facilities, so be aware).

• Not being able to meet the mum of the puppies and learn about their relatives.

• Instant availability of puppies or puppies in unusual, ‘rare’ colours – merle is not a standard colour for most spaniel breeds, for example.

• No questioning of you about your ability to provide an ideal home for the puppy.

• Not allowing you to visit the puppy or see the facility and where the puppies are raised.

• No health tests being undertaken on the puppy’s parents – if health tests have been done, the results should be freely available.

• Not allowing you any choice in puppy selection (although sometimes with small litters, other puppies will already have been reserved and sometimes breeders are better placed at knowing the personality of puppies and thus, their suitability for certain homes).

• Puppies being reared in an environment that is barren and lacking in stimulation and learning opportunities.

• Very high prices – breeding is not cheap, but excessively high costs are more about making money than supporting the progression, health and welfare of a breed.

• No information about pedigrees, registration documents, veterinary health checks, de-worming, microchipping, or other essential information.

• Permitting rehoming of puppies at less than eight weeks of age (this is illegal in the UK).

• No follow-up advice, guidance or lifetime support, including a contract/agreement that details the responsibilities of the breeder and the new caregiver.

Puppies should be raised in clean and stimulating environments.

If at any point in your puppy search you feel uncomfortable, walk away. This even applies if you feel that you need to ‘rescue’ a puppy from a less-than-ideal situation. Every year, new caregivers are distraught when their new puppy falls ill or turns out to have a health or behavioural condition and the breeder can no longer be contacted. If you do end up in such a situation, report the facility to local animal welfare and trading standards organisations.

GREEN FLAGS TO LOOK FOR IN YOUR PUPPY SEARCH:

• A breeder who interviews you at length, long before you actually get to meet their dogs or the puppies.

• A breeder who has their older, retired dogs still living as part of the family.

• They might have multiple dogs, even of a couple of breeds, but the dogs are part of the family and not permanently in kennels or outside buildings.

• A waiting list that does not necessarily ask for a deposit and allows you to change your mind – a good breeder will always want the best for their puppies and their new people, especially if circumstances change.

• Health tests (with results freely available) and evidence of competitive/training success to support breeding choices; even evidence of producing well-rounded companion dogs is important – not all breeders will be training or competing to a high level and instead just enjoy their breed.

• Being able to meet the parents (note that often the stud dog lives elsewhere, but their information should be available) and visit the puppies (perhaps even via social media) before they come home – some breeders will limit access to very young puppies because of potential disease transmission risk.

• Puppies being supplied with a ‘puppy pack’ of essential equipment (usually a couple of weeks’ worth of the puppy food being used, essential documentation, some familiar bedding, toys and other useful items).

• A breeder who has undertaken early training and socialisation with the puppies – car trips, crate training, toilet training, basic recall and lead walking, wearing a collar and so on.

• A breeder who advises you and supports you on the puppy best suited for you, as well as a breeder who might say ‘I am really sorry, but I do not feel these puppies are ideally suited for you at the moment.’

• A clear ‘contract’ and information about support, advice and guidance – many small-scale breeders will retain close connections with ALL their puppies and a breeder who states that a puppy (even as an adult) should be returned to them should the new caregiver’s situation change has a clear interest in the future of that puppy.

I always remember being grilled at length, interview-like, by the breeder of my first Cocker Spaniel, before I actually got to meet her. It was actually quite scary on reflection, but it was clear that he wanted to make sure we could provide a good home for her and that ‘puppy fever’ would not hijack our competent thought processes!

QUESTIONS TO ASK A POTENTIAL BREEDER

• Why did you breed this litter and choose the sire and dam – what are their personalities like and are there any health concerns (for example, digestive issues, allergies, skin irritation) that might be relevant?

• What health tests have the parents had and can I see the results/certificates?

• Are the puppies registered with the appropriate registration body? If not, why not?

• What veterinary attention and checks have the puppies had and when? Can you have the notes?

• What has been the vaccination and deworming schedule of the dam and the puppies?

• How old is mum, how many litters has she had and how are the other puppies doing?

• Can you contact other prospective puppy people and chat to people with older puppies?

• How often can you visit the puppies?

• Where have the puppies been born and raised and what have they been exposed to?

• What toilet training has been done and what cue words have been used for specific behaviours?

• What food has been fed, how much and how many meals per day?

You should feel comfortable and confident with your puppy’s breeder – they often become life-long friends and can be amazing mentors and sources of support and advice. I consider myself incredibly lucky that I remain good friends with the breeders of several of my spaniels, including the breeders of the dam of my very first spaniel who was born over twenty years ago. Similarly, I remain in contact with my own puppy people and get to regularly see many of the puppies I have bred, or my boys have sired – some of whom are now overseas.

Choosing your puppy

You might have an idea of what you want your spaniel to be and to look like. However, often a puppy (or adult dog) will pick you! When viewing puppies, it can be really difficult to make decisions before they are about five weeks old because full personalities are still developing. Watch the litter and look for how they interact with each other, their dam, any other dogs that are in the vicinity and also people. Look for a puppy who is not overly shy, nor extremely independent (although these characteristics can change and develop, and for some people and intended purposes, are desirable!). Puppies should be relaxed and comfortable to be handled and should be clean with bright, clear eyes, no excessive discharge, no wheezing, snuffling, or coughing, no scratching or evidence of scurfiness. Bottoms should be clean as should the environment they are living in.

Ask lots of questions about your puppy. Your breeder should be happy to help.

Breeders will be aware of any potential concerns and make you aware of them, especially if you have ambitions to breed. Hernias, for example, are relatively common and vary in severity, so should be highlighted if apparent so that you can make an informed choice. Similarly, boys should have two descended testicles, but sometimes these have not fully descended by eight weeks old, so need monitoring. Retained testicles need removing as the dog matures because of potential health issues and also precludes the dog from future breeding plans. Even aspects of your spaniel’s markings and conformation (such as their dental alignment) might be relevant, especially if you aim to grace the show ring, and your breeder will be able to support you in identifying what best suits.

Pick a puppy who is healthy and alert.

A good breeder will help identify a puppy with a personality to suit you.

Your choice of puppy depends on many factors, so the more prepared you are and the more consideration you have given to how you want your spaniel to be, the more likely it is that you will have a fabulous friend.

BRINGING HOME PUPPY

Once you have sourced and planned for your new puppy to join your household, some preparation is essential before they come home. Your house and garden need to be puppy proof. Escape routes from a garden need to be secured – you might even want to use a smaller puppy pen initially to limit their exploration of the garden. Items that can be chewed or accidentally damaged by a boisterous and chewing puppy should be put out of reach. This includes potentially harmful things such as electric cables, medication, alcohol, some human foods –raisins, sultanas and chocolate especially.

You might want to use a puppy crate/pen to aid toilet training and if your puppy is already used to this from their breeder, it can become a valuable place for them to relax and settle in. It is also useful to keep them safe, especially when unsupervised – remember, your puppy is always learning, whether supervised or not. If you can limit and manage their experiences, that goes a long way to them learning good, acceptable behaviours, rather than the ones you definitely do not want.

A houseline is a long (about two metres/six feet in length) lightweight lead that you can attach to your dog’s collar and leave trailing. This is useful for managing what your puppy is doing and engaging with, while also allowing some freedom. This also lays the groundwork for using a long line outdoors when training recall and encouraging your puppy to stay close to you.

Ideally, the more you can mimic what your puppy has had when with their breeder, the easier the transition to their new home will be. This might be in terms of mealtimes, rest times, bedtime and so on.

Toilet training

Hopefully, your puppy will have some great toilet training foundations already, but do not rely on them being able to immediately transfer those skills to a new home and location. Always start by taking your puppy out to a desired toilet area and waiting until they ‘go’. Using a cue word for toileting is useful. I say ‘busy, busy’ to indicate I would like them to urinate or defecate. Using a lead or a long line can also stop them getting distracted and ‘forgetting’ to go. Repeat multiple times a day and always after waking, eating, playing. The more you practise, the better they will be at developing the ability to hold their bladder and bowels. Always remember that as bladder control develops, puppies sometimes do not fully empty their bladder on their first ‘go’. For this reason, it is good to wait and see if they realise there is some left! This prevents the annoyance of the puppy going outside, coming back inside and then having a little piddle on the carpet.

A crate or puppy pen can help to keep your puppy safe when unsupervised and also aids toilet training.

Overnight, ensure they have toileted last thing at night and if necessary, for the first few days/weeks, set your alarm during the night to get up, take them out and pop them back to bed. Time spent at this stage will pay dividends with toilet training.

Do not get complacent too fast either – just because a door is open, never assume your puppy will choose to go outside when they are small. Until a puppy is around nine months old, keep a solid toileting routine and support them in getting it right. Also be aware that any changes in the household (visitors, events, etc.), hormonal changes (for dogs and bitches), illness and even changes in seasons (darkness and poor weather can put many spaniels off going outside) can cause a regression in toileting. If your puppy does have an accident, avoid scolding them or getting angry. Quietly and calmly remove them from the area and clean it up using suitable cleaners to remove the smells that can sometimes make going in the same place again more likely.

Some breeders will use puppy pads for toilet training. I have always found simply taking the puppy outside for toileting has been easier and resulted in faster and more robust appropriate toilet behaviours, but you can decide what is most suitable for your own individual situations. I have also had success using artificial grass toilet mats in puppy pens to encourage puppies to toilet in a set area. Those mats can then be taken outside to create a specific toilet area that is familiar to the puppy. Using a pen or a crate can also be useful as dogs will generally avoid toileting in their sleeping area, but you must let your puppy out regularly and use the crate or pen for supportive management, not as a punishment or for prolonged periods of time.

The first night for puppy

Ideally, your puppy’s breeder will have given them a great start in life and prepared them for their new home. This might have involved separating them from their mum and siblings for increasing periods of time in the days before being collected. However, for any puppy, the transition to a new home, new people and other dogs/animals, new environment – sometimes with a long car journey in between – can be distressing. The first night for many puppies can be a lonely and scary experience, but equally for others, they adapt really well and settle quickly.

It is worth knowing where you want your puppy to sleep for the first few nights and, if they are upset, crying, whining or barking, gently comfort them. Make sure they are warm, have a full tummy and do not need the toilet. Offer them companionship, perhaps sleeping beside them or being very close to them. Cuddly toys also mimic their litter mates. Leaving them to ‘cry it out’ is not fair or effective and can lead to further problems and impact on your relationship with your puppy, not to mention your ability to sleep. As with toilet training, time spent at this stage can help your puppy learn that they are safe and cared for and reduce the risks of separation-related behaviours escalating.

Make sure your puppy’s bed is safe and welcoming.

On the first night, start planning your expectations of your puppy, including with other household members too. This might mean deciding whether the puppy is allowed on furniture or upstairs – remember not to let them jump on and off furniture or go up and down stairs until they are physically mature, to protect their developing joints. Cue words for specific behaviours and skills should also be identified for consistency – a list of these pinned somewhere for all to see, and to add to, is a great idea so that all household members know what to expect from your new puppy.

Examples of Some Cue Words

Cue Word

Expectations/Behaviour

Notes

‘name’

Eye contact to be made and to be ready for follow-on cue.

Single, short whistle peep.

Come

Return to close proximity.

Multiple whistle peeps.

Wait

Hold your position until a follow-on cue is given.

Stay

Hold your position until I return and release you.

Free

Release cue – from a stay/other position or when lead is removed.

Heel

Walk at my left-hand side with your shoulder level with my knee.

Side

Walk at my right-hand side with your shoulder level with my knee.