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Titel: The Cook's Decameron: a study in taste, containing over two hundred recipes for Italian dishes
von Scott Hemphill, L. M. Montgomery, L. Frank Baum, John Milton, René Descartes, Baroness Emmuska Orczy Orczy, Karl Marx, Friedrich Engels, Edgar Rice Burroughs, Unknown, Norman F. Joly, Norman Coombs, David Slowinski, Mark Twain, Henry David Thoreau, Stephen Crane, John Goodwin, Nathaniel Hawthorne, Winn Schwartau, Odd De Presno, Sir Walter Scott, Jules Verne, Mary Wollstonecraft Shelley, United States. Central Intelligence Agency, United States, Canada, Willa Sibert Cather, Anthony Hope, Edwin Abbott Abbott, Charles Dickens, Frederick Douglass, William Shakespeare, Bruce Sterling, Franklin Delano Roosevelt, Jane Austen, Thomas Hardy, Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, Edna St. Vincent Millay, Gene Stratton-Porter, Richard McGowan, Frances Hodgson Burnett, United States. Bureau of the Census, Electronic Frontier Foundation, Robert Louis Stevenson, Anonymous, Jerry Bonnell, Robert Nemiroff, Andrew Lang, G. K. Chesterton, John Bunyan, Sunzi 6th cent. B.C., Harold Frederic, Mary Wollstonecraft, Victor Hugo, René Doumic, Upton Sinclair, Virginia Woolf, George Eliot, Thomas Paine, Benjamin Franklin, Plato, Samuel Taylor Coleridge, Ruth M. Sprague, William Dean Howells, Wilkie Collins, Jean Webster, H. G. Wells, Kate Chopin, Mark Eliot Laxer, Louisa May Alcott, Frank Norris, Edith Wharton, S. D. Humphrey, Henry Hunt Snelling, William Morris, Mrs. Susanna Rowson, Christopher Morley, Sax Rohmer, Oscar Wilde, Gaston Leroux, Henry James, Project Gutenberg, Harriet Beecher Stowe, Various, Robert W. Service, A. B. Paterson, Henry Lawson, Jack London, Laozi, D. H. Lawrence, Julius Caesar, Joseph Conrad, W. Somerset Maugham, George MacDonald, Marcus Tullius Cicero, Virgil, Theodore Dreiser, Giuseppe Salza, Rudyard Kipling, ca. 50 BCE-16 BCE Sextus Propertius, Robert A. Harris, William Wells Brown, graf Leo Tolstoy, Omar Khayyám, Michael Hart, Library of Congress. Copyright Office, Coalition for Networked Information, Geoffrey Chaucer, Adam Lindsay Gordon, Hiram Corson, Robert Browning, Amy Lowell, Rupert Brooke, Joyce Kilmer, John Gower, Saki, Kenneth Grahame, Anna Sewell, Martin Luther, Philipp Melanchthon, National Atomic Museum, Alexander William Kinglake, Charles John Cutcliffe Wright Hyne, Amelia Edith Huddleston Barr, James Branch Cabell, Bayard Taylor, Horatio Alger, Booth Tarkington, Hjalmar Hjorth Boyesen, Michael Husted, Émile Gaboriau, Jerome K. Jerome, Stephen Vincent Benét, Edwin Arlington Robinson, J. Frank Dobie, Joseph Rodman Drake, Eliot Gregory, John Fox, John Muir, Richard Harding Davis, Edgar A. Guest, Mary Roberts Rinehart, Thomas Nelson Page, Sir Walter Alexander Raleigh, Rebecca Harding Davis, Charles Alexander Eastman, Zitkala-Sa, Marie L. McLaughlin, J. M. Barrie, Bram Stoker, Hesiod, Edna Ferber, John McCrae, Anna Howard Shaw, Elizabeth Garver Jordan, Frances Jenkins Olcott, P.-J. Proudhon, Eleanor H. Porter, Mary Hunter Austin, Sarah Orne Jewett, Russell Herman Conwell, Daniel Defoe, Henry Benjamin Wheatley, Ambrose Bierce, Nettie Garmer Barker, Martí Joan de Galba, Joanot Martorell, Oliver Goldsmith, Zane Grey, Winston Churchill, Arthur Machen, L. Cranmer-Byng, Torquato Tasso, H. De Vere Stacpoole, Elizabeth Cleghorn Gaskell, Frank Richard Stockton, Rutherford Hayes Platt, Sara Teasdale, Samuel Smiles, W. E. B. Du Bois, Phillis Wheatley, Elbert Hubbard, Richard Jefferies, George Henry Borrow, Sherwood Anderson, Vachel Lindsay, David Graham Phillips, Harry Houdini, Eugene Field, Gustave Le Bon, Henry Brodribb Irving, William Healy, Mary Tenney Healy, Charles Godfrey Leland, Ralph Parlette, Don Marquis, Richard Le Gallienne, Stewart Edward White, Andrew Steinmetz, Madame de La Fayette, Abbé Prévost, Honoré de Balzac, Charles W. Chesnutt, Sara Cone Bryant, William Booth, James Nasmyth, Enrico Ferri, Joe Hutsko, Miriam Michelson, Oliver Optic, Victor MacClure, Calamity Jane, Gertrude Franklin Horn Atherton, Dinah Maria Mulock Craik, Henry J. Coke, Kate Douglas Smith Wiggin, Victor [pseud.] Appleton, Carlo Collodi, Hugh Lofting, John Philip Sousa, Andrew Dickson White, Joseph Sheridan Le Fanu, Isaac Taylor Headland, Amy Steedman, B. M. Bower, William Tuckwell, Clarence Edgar Johnson, Sinclair Lewis, Rex Stout, Carl R. Maag, Steve Rohrer, Mariano Azuela, Royall Tyler, John Buchan, Ross Kay, J. L. Kennon, Eros Urides, Friedrich Schiller, William Cowper Brann, Adelaide L. Fries, Beatrix Potter, Mary Lamb, Charles Lamb, William Blake, Francis Bacon, Samuel Johnson, Tadashi Nakashima, Sidney Lanier, Edward Jenkins, Harriet E. Wilson, Ellen Craft, William Craft, Sir Thomas Browne, Alexander H. Japp, Guy de Maupassant, Thomas Bailey Aldrich, Snorri Sturluson, William Makepeace Thackeray, Fyodor Dostoyevsky, M. G. Lewis, Lucan, Edwin Lester Linden Arnold, Frank Bird Linderman, Tingfang Wu, Baron Alfred Tennyson Tennyson, Japan, Lodovico Ariosto, Alan Seeger, Anthony Trollope, Lewis Carroll, William James, Jonathan Swift, Edward Bellamy, Richard de Bury, Charles Mackay, Eliza Burt Gamble, R. M. Ballantyne, Fanny Van de Grift Stevenson, Mrs. Sutherland Orr, William Sharp, 4th century Smyrnaeus Quintus, Noah Webster, Russ Walter, Plutarch, Charles Kingsley, Frances Ellen Watkins Harper, Sarojini Naidu, Maksim Gorky, Greg Fee, Izaak Walton, U.S. Arms Control and Disarmament Agency, United States. Army. Corps of Engineers. Manhattan District, European Union, Alice Moore Dunbar-Nelson, Bertrand Russell, James Whitcomb Riley, S. Weir Mitchell, Horace Walpole, John Ruskin, Martha Young, Richard Lovelace, Henry Van Dyke, Michael Fairless, E. W. Hornung, Henry Rider Haggard, Edward Sylvester Ellis, Laura Lee Hope, Lafcadio Hearn, William Ernest Henley, John Clark Ridpath, G. Mercer Adam, Charles Keyser Edmunds, John A. Carpenter, Steven Levy, Edward Gibbon, Henry Clay, John C. Calhoun, Thomas Hart Benton, Arthur Brisbane, William Godwin, Walter L. Pyle, George M. Gould, Dornford Yates, Saint John of Damascus, Oliver Wendell Holmes, Hendrik Willem Van Loon, Isabella L. Bird, J. A. Munk, Sir W. S. Gilbert, Sir Max Beerbohm, George Whale, Edmund Day, Marion Mills Miller, John Murray, Mary Mapes Dodge, Abraham Merritt, Anne Brontë, Emily Brontë, Kakuzo Okakura, E. Nesbit, Charlotte Brontë, William J. Claxton, Christopher Marlowe, Sir John Mandeville, Jos. E. Badger, Titus Lucretius Carus, Charles Brockden Brown, Frederick Arthur Ambrose Talbot, Stendhal, Laurence Sterne, F. Scott Fitzgerald, Sophocles, Sir Arthur Sullivan, Graf Ilia Lvovich Tolstoi, Alexis de Tocqueville, H. Barber, Herbert Newton Casson, Frank Lewis Dyer, Thomas Commerford Martin, Frank Tymon, ca. 3rd cent. B.C. Apollonius Rhodius, 12th cent. de Troyes Chrétien, J. Walker McSpadden, Thorstein Veblen, R. D. Blackmore, William Gilmore Simms, Henry Timrod, M. L. Weems, Baron Thomas Babington Macaulay Macaulay, Francis Hopkinson Smith, Mary White Rowlandson, John Dewey, Margaret Mayo, John Mackenzie Bacon, Owen Wister, Agatha Christie, Epictetus, Evelyn Charles Vivian, W. Lockwood Marsh, Washington Irving, John Greenleaf Whittier, James Russell Lowell, Elizabeth Stoddard, Lady Lucie Duff Gordon, Princess Der Ling, John Quincy Adams, F. Marion, Bayard Veiller, Marvin Hill Dana, Octave Chanute, William James Jackman, Thomas Herbert Russell, Bernard Shaw, John Filson, Mikhail Yurevich Lermontov, Alice Isabel Hazeltine, Benedictus de Spinoza, William Dobein James, United States. Presidents., Gustavus Hindman Miller, St. Jude, R. U. Sirius, Mrs. W. G. Waters
ISBN 978-3-7429-0878-0
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Montaigne in one of his essays* mentions the high excellence Italian cookery had attained in his day. "I have entered into this Discourse upon the Occasion of an Italian I lately receiv'd into my Service, and who was Clerk of the Kitchen to the late Cardinal Caraffa till his Death. I put this Fellow upon an Account of his office: Where he fell to Discourse of this Palate-Science, with such a settled Countenance and Magisterial Gravity, as if he had been handling some profound Point of Divinity. He made a Learned Distinction of the several sorts of Appetites, of that of a Man before he begins to eat, and of those after the second and third Service: The Means simply to satisfy the first, and then to raise and acute the other two: The ordering of the Sauces, first in general, and then proceeded to the Qualities of the Ingredients, and their Effects: The Differences of Sallets, according to their seasons, which ought to be serv'd up hot, and which cold: The Manner of their Garnishment and Decoration, to render them yet more acceptable to the Eye after which he entered upon the Order of the whole Service, full of weighty and important Considerations."
It is consistent with Montaigne's large-minded habit thus to applaud the gifts of this master of his art who happened not to be a Frenchman. It is a canon of belief with the modern Englishman that the French alone can achieve excellence in the art of cookery, and when once a notion of this sort shall have found a lodgment in an Englishman's brain, the task of removing it will be a hard one. Not for a moment is it suggested that Englishmen or any one else should cease to recognise the sovereign merits of French cookery; all that is entreated is toleration, and perchance approval, of cookery of other schools. But the favourable consideration of any plea of this sort is hindered by the fact that the vast majority of Englishmen when they go abroad find no other school of cookery by the testing of which they may form a comparison. This universal prevalence of French cookery may be held to be a proof of its supreme excellence—that it is first, and the rest nowhere; but the victory is not so complete as it seems, and the facts would bring grief and humiliation rather than patriotic pride to the heart of a Frenchman like Brillat-Savarin. For the cookery we meet in the hotels of the great European cities, though it may be based on French traditions, is not the genuine thing, but a bastard, cosmopolitan growth, the same everywhere, and generally vapid and uninteresting. French cookery of the grand school suffers by being associated with such commonplace achievements. It is noted in the following pages how rarely English people on their travels penetrate where true Italian cookery may be tasted, wherefore it has seemed worth while to place within the reach of English housewives some Italian recipes which are especially fitted for the presentation of English fare to English palates under a different and not unappetising guise. Most of them will be found simple and inexpensive, and special care has been taken to include those recipes which enable the less esteemed portions of meat and the cheaper vegetables and fish to be treated more elaborately than they have hitherto been treated by English cooks.
The author wishes to tender her acknowledgments to her husband for certain suggestions and emendations made in the revision of the introduction, and for his courage in dining, "greatly daring," off many of the dishes. He still lives and thrives. Also to Mrs. Mitchell, her cook, for the interest and enthusiasm she has shown in the work, for her valuable advice, and for the care taken in testing the recipes.
Preface
Prologue
PART I. THE COOK'S DECAMERON
The First Day
The Second Day
The Third Day
The Fourth Day
The Fifth Day
The Sixth Day
The Seventh Day
The Eighth Day
The Ninth Day
The Tenth Day
PART II—RECIPES
Sauces
No. 1. Espagnole, or Brown Sauce
No. 2. Velute Sauce
No. 3. Bechamel Sauce
No. 4. Mirepoix Sauce (for masking)
No. 5. Genoese Sauce
No. 6. Italian Sauce
No. 7. Ham Sauce, Salsa di Prosciutto
No. 8. Tarragon Sauce
No. 9. Tomato Sauce
No. 10. Tomato Sauce Piquante
No. 11. Mushroom Sauce
No. 12. Neapolitan Sauce
No. 13. Neapolitan Anchovy Sauce
No. 14. Roman Sauce (Salsa Agro-dolce)
No. 15. Roman Sauce (another way)
No. 16. Supreme Sauce
No. 17. Pasta marinate (For masking Italian Frys)
No. 18. White Villeroy
Soups
No. 19. Clear Soup
No. 20. Zuppa Primaverile (Spring Soup)
No. 21. Soup alla Lombarda
No. 22. Tuscan Soup
No. 23. Venetian Soup
No. 24. Roman Soup
No. 25. Soup alla Nazionale
No. 26. Soup alla Modanese
No. 27. Crotopo Soup
No. 28. Soup all'Imperatrice
No. 29. Neapolitan Soup
No. 30. Soup with Risotto
No. 31. Soup alla Canavese
No. 32. Soup alla Maria Pia
No. 33. Zuppa d' Erbe (Lettuce Soup)
No. 34. Zuppa Regina di Riso (Queen's Soup)
Minestre
No. 35. A Condiment for Seasoning Minestre, &c.
No. 36. Minestra alla Casalinga
No. 37. Minestra of Rice and Turnips
No. 38. Minestra alla Capucina
No. 39. Minestra of Semolina
No. 40. Minestrone alla Milanese
No. 41. Minestra of Rice and Cabbage
No. 42. Minestra of Rice and Celery
Fish
No. 43. Anguilla alla Milanese (Eels).
No. 44. Filletti di Pesce alla Villeroy (Fillets of Fish)
No. 45. Astachi all'Italiana (Lobster)
No. 46. Baccala alla Giardiniera (Cod)
No. 47. Triglie alla Marinara (Mullet)
No. 48. Mullet alla Tolosa
No. 49. Mullet alla Triestina
No. 50. Whiting alla Genovese
No. 51. Merluzzo in Bianco (Cod)
No. 52. Merluzzo in Salamoia (Cod)
No. 53. Baccala in Istufato (Haddock)
No. 54. Naselli con Piselli (Whiting)
No. 55. Ostriche alla Livornese (Oysters)
No. 56. Ostriche alla Napolitana (Oysters)
No. 57. Ostriche alla Veneziana (Oysters)
No. 58. Pesci diversi alla Casalinga (Fish)
No. 59. Pesce alla Genovese (Sole or Turbot)
No. 60. Sogliole in Zimino (Sole)
No. 61. Sogliole al tegame (Sole)
No. 62. Sogliole alla Livornese (Sole)
No. 63. Sogliole alla Veneziana (Sole)
No. 64. Sogliole alla Parmigiana (Sole).*
No. 65. Salmone alla Genovese (Salmon)
No. 66. Salmone alla Perigo (Salmon)
No. 67. Salmone alla giardiniera (Salmon)
No. 68. Salmone alla Farnese (Salmon)
No. 69. Salmone alla Santa Fiorentina (Salmon)
No. 70. Salmone alla Francesca (Salmon)
No. 71. Fillets of Salmon in Papiliotte
Beef, Mutton, Veal, Lamb, &C.
No. 72. Manzo alla Certosina (Fillet of Beef)
No. 73. Stufato alla Florentina (Stewed Beef)
No. 74. Coscia di Manzo al Forno (Rump Steak)
No. 75. Polpettine alla Salsa Piccante (Beef Olives)
No. 76. Stufato alla Milanese (Stewed Beef)
No. 77. Manzo Marinato Arrosto (Marinated Beef)
No. 78. Manzo con sugo di Barbabietole (Fillet of Beef)
No. 79. Manzo in Insalata (Marinated Beef)
No. 80. Filetto di Bue con Pistacchi (Fillets of Beef with Pistacchios)
No. 81. Scalopini di Riso (Beef with Risotto)
No. 82. Tenerumi alla Piemontese (Tendons of Veal)
No. 83. Bragiuole di Vitello (Veal Cutlets)
No. 84. Costolette alla Manza (Veal Cutlets)
No. 85. Vitello alla Pellegrina (Breast of Veal)
No. 86. Frittura Piccata al Marsala (Fillet of Veal)
No. 87. Polpettine Distese (Veal Olives)
No. 88. Coste di Vitello Imboracciate (Ribs of Veal)
No. 89. Costolette di Montone alla Nizzarda (Mutton Cutlets)
No. 90. Petto di Castrato all'Italiana (Breast of Mutton)
No. 91. Petto di Castrato alla Salsa piccante (Breast of Mutton)
No. 92. Tenerumi d'Agnello alla Villeroy (Tendons of Lamb)
No. 93. Tenerumi d' Agnello alla Veneziana (Tendons of Lamb)
No. 94. Costolette d' Agnello alla Costanza (Lamb Cutlets)
Tongue, Sweetbread, Calf's Head, Liver, Sucking Pig, &C.
No. 95. Timballo alla Romana
No. 96. Timballo alla Lombarda
No. 97. Lingua alla Visconti (Tongue)
No. 98. Lingua di Manzo al Citriuoli (Tongue with Cucumber)
No. 99. Lingue di Castrato alla Cuciniera (Sheep's Tongues)
No. 100. Lingue di Vitello all'Italiana (Calves' Tongues)
No. 101. Porcelletto alla Corradino (Sucking Pig)
No. 102. Porcelletto da Latte in Galantina (Sucking Pig)
No. 103. Ateletti alla Sarda
No. 104. Ateletti alla Genovese
No. 105. Testa di Vitello alla Sorrentina (Calf's Head)
No. 106. Testa di Vitello con Salsa Napoletana (Calf's Head)
No. 107. Testa di Vitello alla Pompadour (Calf's Head)
No. 108. Testa di Vitello alla Sanseverino (Calf's Head)
No. 109. Testa di Vitello in Frittata (Calf's Head)
No. 110. Zampetti (Calves' Feet)
No. 111. Bodini Marinati
No. 112. Animelle alla Parmegiana (Sweetbread)
No. 113. Animelle in Cartoccio (Sweetbread)
No. 114. Animelle all'Italiana (Sweetbread)
No. 115. Animelle Lardellate (Sweetbread)
No. 116. Frittura di Bottoni e di Animelle (Sweetbread and Mushrooms)
No. 117. Cervello in Fili serbe (Calf's Brains)
No. 118. Cervello alla Milanese (Calf's Brains)
No. 119. Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains)
No. 120. Frittura of Liver and Brains
No. 121. Cervello in Frittata Montano (Calf's Brains)
No. 122. Marinata di Cervello alla Villeroy (Calf's Brains)
No. 123. Minuta alla Milanese (Lamb's Sweetbread)
No. 124. Animelle al Sapor di Targone (Lamb's Fry)
No. 125. Fritto Misto alla Villeroy
No. 126. Fritto Misto alla Piemontese
No. 127. Minuta di Fegatini (Ragout of Fowls' Livers)
No. 128. Minuta alla Visconti (Chickens' Livers)
No. 129. Croutons alla Principesca
No. 130. Croutons alla Romana
Fowl, Duck, Game, Hare, Rabbit, &c.
No. 131. Soffiato di Cappone (Fowl Souffle)
No. 132. Pollo alla Fiorentina (Chicken)
No. 133. Pollo all'Oliva (Chicken)
No. 134. Pollo alla Villereccia (Chicken)
No. 135. Pollo alla Cacciatora (Chicken)
No. 136. Pollastro alla Lorenese (Fowl)
No. 137. Pollastro in Fricassea al Burro (Fowl)
No. 138. Pollastro in istufa di Pomidoro (Braized Fowl)
No. 139. Cappone con Riso (Capon with Rice)
No. 140. Dindo Arrosto alla Milanese (Roast Turkey)
No. 141. Tacchinotto all'Istrione (Turkey Poult)
No. 142. Fagiano alla Napoletana (Pheasant)
No. 143. Fagiano alla Perigo (Pheasant)
No. 144. Anitra Selvatica (Wild Duck)
No. 145. Perniciotti alla Gastalda (Partridges)
No. 146. Beccaccini alla Diplomatica (Snipe)
No. 147. Piccioni alla minute (Pigeons)
No. 148. Piccioni in Ripieno (Stuffed Pigeons)
No. 149. Lepre in istufato (Stewed Hare)
No. 150. Lepre Agro-dolce (Hare)
No. 151. Coniglio alla Provenzale (Rabbit)
No. 152. Coniglio arrostito alla Corradino (Roast Rabbit)
No. 153. Coniglio in salsa Piccante (Rabbit)
Vegetables
No. 154. Asparagi alla salsa Suprema (Asparagus)
No. 155. Cavoli di Bruxelles alla Savoiarda (Brussels Sprouts)
No. 156. Barbabietola alla Parmigiana (Beetroot)
No. 157. Fave alla Savoiarda (Beans)
No. 158. Verze alla Capuccina (Cabbage)
No. 159. Cavoli fiodi alla Lionese (Cauliflower)
No. 160. Cavoli fiodi fritti (Cauliflower)
No. 161. Cauliflower alla Parmigiana
No. 162. Cavoli Fiori Ripieni
No. 163. Sedani alla Parmigiana (Celery)
No. 164. Sedani fritti all'Italiana (Celery)
No. 165. Cetriuoli alla Parmigiana (Cucumber)
No. 166. Cetriuoli alla Borghese (Cucumber)
No. 167. Carote al sughillo (Carrots)
No. 168. Carote e piselli alla panna (Carrots and Peas)
No. 169. Verze alla Certosine (Cabbage)
No. 170. Lattughe al sugo (Lettuce)
No. 171 Lattughe farcite alla Genovese (Lettuce)
No. 172. Funghi cappelle infarcite (Stuffed Mushrooms)
No. 173. Verdure miste (Macedoine of Vegetables)
No. 174. Patate alla crema (Potatoes in cream)
No. 175. Cestelline di patate alla giardiniera (Potatoes)
No. 176. Patate al Pomidoro (Potatoes with Tomato Sauce)
No. 177. Spinaci alla Milanese (Spinach)
No. 178. Insalata di patate (Potato salad)
No. 179. Insalata alla Navarino (Salad)
No. 180. Insalata di pomidoro (Tomato Salad)
No. 181. Tartufi alla Dino (Truffles)
Macaroni, Rice, Polenta, and Other Italian Pastes
No. 182. Macaroni with Tomatoes
No. 183. Macaroni alla Casalinga
No. 184. Macaroni al Sughillo
No. 185. Macaroni alla Livornese
No. 186. Tagliarelle and Lobster
No. 187. Polenta
No. 188. Polenta Pasticciata
No. 189. Battuffoli
No. 190. Risotto all'Italiana
No. 191. Risotto alla Genovese
No. 192. Risotto alla Spagnuola
No. 193. Risotto alla Capuccina
No. 194. Risotto alla Parigina
No. 195. Ravioli
No. 196. Ravioli alla Fiorentina
No. 197. Gnocchi alla Romana
No. 198. Gnocchi alla Lombarda
No. 199. Frittata di Riso (Savoury Rice Pancake)
Omelettes And Other Egg Dishes
No. 200. Uova al Tartufi (Eggs with Truffles)
No. 201. Uova al Pomidoro (Eggs and Tomatoes)
No. 202. Uova ripiene (Canapes of Egg)
No. 203. Uova alla Fiorentina (Eggs)
No. 204. Uova in fili (Egg Canapes)
No. 205. Frittata di funghi (Mushroom Omelette)
No. 206. Frittata con Pomidoro (Tomato Omelette)
No. 207. Frittata con Asparagi (Asparagus Omelette)
No. 208. Frittata con erbe (Omelette with Herbs)
No. 209. Frittata Montata (Omelette Souffle)
No. 210. Frittata di Prosciutto (Ham Omelette)
Sweets and Cakes
No. 211. Bodino of Semolina
No. 212. Crema rappresa (Coffee Cream)
No. 213. Crema Montata alle Fragole (Strawberry Cream)
No. 214. Croccante di Mandorle (Cream Nougat)
No. 215. Crema tartara alla Caramella (Caramel Cream)
No. 216. Cremona Cake
No. 217. Cake alla Tolentina
No. 218. Riso all'Imperatrice
No. 219. Amaretti leggieri (Almond Cakes)
No. 220. Cakes alla Livornese
No. 221. Genoese Pastry
No. 222. Zabajone
No. 223. Iced Zabajone
No. 224. Pan-forte di Siena (Sienese Hardbake)
New Century Sauce
No. 225. Fish Sauce
No. 226. Sauce Piquante (for Meat, Fowl, Game, Rabbit, &c.)
No. 227. Sauce for Venison, Hare, &c.
No. 228. Tomato Sauce Piquante
No. 229. Sauce for Roast Pork, Ham, &c.
No. 230. For masking Cutlets, &c.
The Marchesa di Sant'Andrea finished her early morning cup of tea, and then took up the batch of correspondence which her maid had placed on the tray. The world had a way of treating her in kindly fashion, and hostile or troublesome letters rarely veiled their ugly faces under the envelopes addressed to her; wherefore the perfection of that pleasant half-hour lying between the last sip of tea and the first step to meet the new day was seldom marred by the perusal of her morning budget. The apartment which she graced with her seemly presence was a choice one in the Mayfair Hotel, one which she had occupied for the past four or five years during her spring visit to London; a visit undertaken to keep alive a number of pleasant English friendships which had begun in Rome or Malta. London had for her the peculiar attraction it has for so many Italians, and the weeks she spent upon its stones were commonly the happiest of the year.
The review she took of her letters before breaking the seals first puzzled her, and then roused certain misgivings in her heart. She recognised the handwriting of each of the nine addresses, and at the same time recalled the fact that she was engaged to dine with every one of the correspondents of this particular morning. Why should they all be writing to her? She had uneasy forebodings of postponement, and she hated to have her engagements disturbed; but it was useless to prolong suspense, so she began by opening the envelope addressed in the familiar handwriting of Sir John Oglethorpe, and this was what Sir John had to say—
"My Dear Marchesa, words, whether written or spoken, are powerless to express my present state of mind. In the first place, our dinner on Thursday is impossible, and in the second, I have lost Narcisse and forever. You commented favourably upon that supreme of lobster and the Ris de Veau a la Renaissance we tasted last week, but never again will you meet the handiwork of Narcisse. He came to me with admirable testimonials as to his artistic excellence; with regard to his moral past I was, I fear, culpably negligent, for I now learn that all the time he presided over my stewpans he was wanted by the French police on a charge of murdering his wife. A young lady seems to have helped him; so I fear Narcisse has broken more than one of the commandments in this final escapade. The truly great have ever been subject to these momentary aberrations, and Narcisse being now in the hands of justice—so called—our dinner must needs stand over, though not, I hope, for long. Meantime the only consolation I can perceive is the chance of a cup of tea with you this afternoon."
Sir John Oglethorpe had been her husband's oldest and best friend. He and the Marchesa had first met in Sardinia, where they had both of them gone in pursuit of woodcock, and since the Marchesa had been a widow, she and Sir John had met either in Rome or in London every year. The dinner so tragically manque had been arranged to assemble a number of Anglo-Italian friends; and, as Sir John was as perfect as a host as Narcisse was as a cook, the disappointment was a heavy one. She threw aside the letter with a gesture of vexation, and opened the next.
"Sweetest Marchesa," it began, "how can I tell you my grief at having to postpone our dinner for Friday. My wretched cook (I gave her seventy-five pounds a year), whom I have long suspected of intemperate habits, was hopelessly inebriated last night, and had to be conveyed out of the house by my husband and a dear, devoted friend who happened to be dining with us, and deposited in a four-wheeler. May I look in tomorrow afternoon and pour out my grief to you? Yours cordially,
"Pamela St. Aubyn Fothergill."
When the Marchesa had opened four more letters, one from Lady Considine, one from Mrs. Sinclair, one from Miss Macdonnell, and one from Mrs. Wilding, and found that all these ladies were obliged to postpone their dinners on account of the misdeeds of their cooks, she felt that the laws of average were all adrift. Surely the three remaining letters must contain news of a character to counterbalance what had already been revealed, but the event showed that, on this particular morning, Fortune was in a mood to strike hard. Colonel Trestrail, who gave in his chambers carefully devised banquets, compounded by a Bengali who was undoubtedly something of a genius, wrote to say that this personage had left at a day's notice, in order to embrace Christianity and marry a lady's-maid who had just come into a legacy of a thousand pounds under the will of her late mistress. Another correspondent, Mrs. Gradinger, wrote that her German cook had announced that the dignity of womanhood was, in her opinion, slighted by the obligation to prepare food for others in exchange for mere pecuniary compensation. Only on condition of the grant of perfect social equality would she consent to stay, and Mrs. Gradinger, though she held advanced opinions, was hardly advanced far enough to accept this suggestion. Last of all, Mr. Sebastian van der Roet was desolate to announce that his cook, a Japanese, whose dishes were, in his employer's estimation, absolute inspirations, had decamped and taken with him everything of value he could lay hold of; and more than desolate, that he was forced to postpone the pleasure of welcoming the Marchesa di Sant' Andrea at his table.
When she had finished reading this last note, the Marchesa gathered the whole mass of her morning's correspondence together, and uttering a few Italian words which need not be translated, rolled it into a ball and hurled the same to the farthest corner of the room. "How is it," she ejaculated, "that these English, who dominate the world abroad, cannot get their food properly cooked at home? I suppose it is because they, in their lofty way, look upon cookery as a non-essential, and consequently fall victims to gout and dyspepsia, or into the clutches of some international brigandaccio, who declares he is a cordon bleu. One hears now and again pleasant remarks about the worn-out Latin races, but I know of one Latin race which can do better than this in cookery." And having thus delivered herself, the Marchesa lay back on the pillows and reviewed the situation.