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Trudy Affleck

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Beschreibung

The Healthy Donkey provides a fascinating background to the history of this iconic animal and introduces potential owners to everything they need to know about donkey guardianship, with useful information about diet, bedding and grooming. Those already familiar with donkeys will also find invaluable information about addressing behavioural issues using patience, kindness and bodywork using the Tellington TTouch techniques - a non-invasive system of touch and massage designed to bring about calmness, trust and confidence. Case studies show how these techniques can be used to address a variety of problems.

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Seitenzahl: 322

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2016

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THE HEALTHY

Donkey

Sarah Fisher & Trudy Affleck

THE CROWOOD PRESS

First published in 2016 by

The Crowood Press Ltd

Ramsbury, Marlborough

Wiltshire SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book first published in 2016

© Sarah Fisher and Trudy Affleck 2016

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 78500 172 7

Photographs by Bob Atkins and Sarah Fisher

Dedicated to all donkeys, and to those who love and care for them

Contents

Introduction

 

PART 1

1 LIVING WITH DONKEYS

2 HUSBANDRY

3 ANATOMY, POSTURE AND BEHAVIOUR

4 ACCOUNTABILITY

PART 2

5 KNOW YOUR DONKEY

6 THE TELLINGTON TTOUCH AND CONNECTED RIDING

PART 3

7 SEVENTY-FIVE TIPS AND TECHNIQUES TO HELP THE DONKEYS IN YOUR CARE

Useful Contacts and Resources

Further Reading

Acknowledgements

Index

 

Introduction

Greet every day with enthusiasm

Be loyal to those you love

Share good things with close friends

Be kind

Take a moment to weigh up your options if something bothers you and know when it is time to fight,

flight or stand your ground

Be gentle

Spread humour and joy whether at work or at play

Be strong yet sensitive in equal measure

Have patience with those around you

Be wise

Be true

Be Donkey

We both have many years of experience interacting and living with donkeys and make no apologies for being totally captivated by these intelligent, entertaining, affectionate and peaceful animals. We are not just lovers of our own donkeys; we are passionate ambassadors for each and every one. We wanted to write this book to give you some new ideas and perhaps deeper insights into the wonderful world of donkey guardianship, and to share seventy-five techniques and tips that have enabled us to help donkeys lead happy and fulfilling lives. In our opinion, there are few greater things in life than the companionship of donkeys and we know we are not alone in this belief. Whether you are only just discovering the delights of sharing your life with these incredible beings, are in the process of offering a home to some of the unwanted donkeys currently in need, or are already experienced in many aspects of donkey management and care, we hope you will enjoy exploring rewarding ways of looking after, and connecting with, your glorious donkey friends.

PART 1

1 Living with Donkeys

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE DONKEY

The donkey has played a vital role in the history of man, yet there has been minimal research into the domestication of the donkey over the years. A study exploring the origins of the modern donkey (Kimura et al., Ancient DNA from Nubian and Somali wild ass provides insights into donkey ancestry and domestication), however, has concluded that the Nubian ass and a second, potentially extinct, subspecies are the ancestors of the modern donkey. The Somalian ass has been ruled out as a contributor to the domesticated donkey’s gene pool.

Analysis of genetic data from modern donkeys reveals the Somali wild ass has considerable mitochondrial divergence from the Nubian wild ass and domestic donkeys; it is no longer considered to be an ancestor.

Despite relatively limited available genetic data, evidence from archaeological sites suggests that domestication of the wild donkey, well adapted to arid environments, began approximately five thousand years ago in Africa, enabling early societies to become more mobile, increase trade and spread further afield. The discovery and analysis of ten donkey skeletons buried in Egypt about 3,000 BC (Rossel et al.) confirmed that donkeys were used as beasts of burden in Egyptian society, with the skeletons showing wear and tear consistent with carrying heavy loads.

In an article entitled ‘Evaluating the Roles of Directed Breeding and Gene Flow in Animal Domestication’, Fiona B. Marshall et al. examine the domestication and management process of the donkey and highlight the important role that donkeys continue to play as working animals in the lives of African pastoralists today. The article illustrates how the donkey’s long gestation rate, resilience, ability to range widely in search of a mate and use as a means of transport over significant distances all contributed to limited directed breeding; historically herders relied in part on wild and feral donkeys for herd growth, as opposed to actively managing reproduction.

It is thought that the domestic donkey was brought to the United Kingdom by the Romans. Over the centuries the European donkey has been used in agriculture, as a means of transport, for the production of mules and by the military, but as technology advanced, so the working donkey became largely redundant. Changes in agricultural practice have had a devastating impact on many donkey breeds; of the 162 official breeds of donkey worldwide, only five are not endangered, and six are sadly already extinct (Rischkowsky & Pilling, 2007).

The small stature, intelligence and friendly character of the Miniature Mediterranean donkey make them ideal family companions, provided they are given appropriate outlets for their natural drives and desires.

European donkeys were probably introduced to the Americas by Christopher Columbus in the fifteenth century and by Spanish conquistadors in the sixteenth century. They were used as working animals and for breeding mules, and the trend continued through subsequent centuries with large numbers of donkeys being imported during the gold rush in the nineteenth century. They lost their value as working animals following the introduction of the railways and the end of the mining era.

In Europe small breeds like the Miniature Mediterranean donkey, found in Sardinia and Sicily, were used to turn grinding stones and transport water. Larger breeds, such as the distinctive French Poitou and the now rare Spanish Andalusian donkey, were used for the production of large working mules. Although the Miniature Mediterranean is in decline in its native countries, this delightful breed can be found in the USA, Canada, the UK and other European countries thanks to Roger Green, who imported a small herd into the USA in the 1920s. Roger Green is quoted as saying ‘Miniature donkeys possess the affectionate nature of a Newfoundland, the resignation of a cow, the durability of a mule, the courage of a tiger and an intellectual capability only slightly inferior to man’s.’

There are an estimated 40–50 million donkeys in the world today, the majority of them working animals essential to the success of many communities worldwide, providing low-cost power and transport. The robust, endearing donkey has stamina, is relatively easy to manage, utilizes feed more efficiently than a horse of comparable size, is patient, and tolerates thirst better (and rehydrates more quickly) than horses or oxen. With the majority of specific breeds in sharp decline, it is the mixed breed, standard donkey that is now most commonly kept both as a working animal and as a pet.

DONKEY GUARDIANSHIP

Donkeys come into people’s lives for a variety of reasons, and once they become a part of your family you will quickly realize what amazing creatures they are. Donkey guardianship can be addictive and time spent in their rewarding company is never wasted. A happy contented donkey makes a calm, kind, patient, loving companion and one that will most certainly make you smile.

Donkeys are highly adaptable and can turn their hoof to a wide variety of skills, including being ridden and driven, as willing teachers in therapeutic equine programmes, protecting livestock, trekking, pulling a toboggan through the snow, carrying shopping or feedbags using pack saddles, or simply enjoying being fussed and groomed to help ease the trials of the human day. Donkeys may be strong and resilient but they are also highly intelligent, sensitive animals that enjoy companionship. They are entertaining and expressive, and if a donkey appears to be miserable or depressed, it is more likely to indicate poor management or ill-health rather than his general temperament. Donkeys tend to stop and process information and may shut down when overwhelmed, and it is this response that gives donkeys the unfair reputation of being stubborn.

A well socialized donkey is a joy to own and will often seek out human company. Donkeys have a natural curiosity and really enjoy being a part of the social scene. A happy donkey will often leave the pleasures of the pasture to interact with humans and, provided they enjoy contact on their body, will willingly line up to be groomed and fussed without the need to be caught and held or tied. They love to learn and, regardless of whether you decide to train your donkey to be ridden, driven or to compete in-hand, the relationship between you will be enhanced if you invest time in teaching him some solid life skills and give him the necessary mental stimulation using techniques based on mutual cooperation, kindness and trust.

A happy, contented donkey will seek out human company. Having the opportunity to hang out with these incredible animals is one of life’s greatest gifts.

Their intelligent, independent and gregarious nature means that donkeys are easily bored; if left to their own devices, or simply turned out in a barren field day after day, they may well find their own entertainment. Providing a safe, enriched environment for your donkey, and ensuring that his needs are met, will minimize the chances of him developing behavioural problems linked to frustration.

Rough and tumble games can be an important part of a donkey’s life. Donkey geldings in particular will often engage in boisterous interactions with each other. Large rope dog toys, wellington boots, small branches pulled from the hedgerows or anything that can be picked up and incorporated into a game of tug of war will be used. Horse balls and rubber feed bowls can also provide donkeys with great stimulation but may not survive the rigours of donkey play. A new pristine feed bowl can be shredded in minutes and even a heavy water container filled to the brim and wedged securely into a tyre will be effortlessly flung around the stable with great gusto if your donkeys like to play. Make sure that any toys you offer to your donkeys are safe. Remove any buckles from Wellington boots and avoid items that might have sharp edges or loops that could get caught on the teeth and around the hooves and legs.

A significant amount of time can be spent watching two donkey geldings engrossed in a game. Some games can get quite rough and may even appear to be getting out of hand; many a new donkey owner worries that their donkeys are fighting in earnest, and bite marks on the neck, legs and flanks as a result of rough games are not uncommon. However, where several donkeys are kept together it is important to ensure that bullying is not taking place.

Rough, physical games are a natural behaviour, particularly when the donkeys are young. Provided the companions graze calmly together and share the same housing quite happily at all other times, a robust playfight is no cause for concern.

Like all animals, donkeys have individual personalities and different capabilities, and they process training at different speeds. Some are naturally more outgoing, while others may be a little more introverted. All donkeys, however, thrive in a teaching environment employing methods tailored to their individual characters that enable them to use their brains. They can learn new skills at a very fast rate when reward-based techniques such as clicker training are used. Clicker training is not a necessary part of donkey education but it can add variety to the way you interact with your donkey and can certainly be a useful resource in your teaching tool kit in addition to the tips we have shared in this book. It can help a donkey develop pleasant and rewarding associations with something that may have caused anxiety in the past.

Using food rewards as part of a teaching exercise is not the same as giving regular tidbits from the hand. Over-treating donkeys can encourage them to become pushy and to bite; this is unfair to the donkey and unpleasant for the human and can cause a break-down in the bond between donkeys and their carers if the donkey is reprimanded for this easily avoidable behaviour. This is of particular importance where children are concerned. A happy donkey is usually gentle with children and can become a much valued friend to every member of the family but it is important that all interactions with children are monitored and, above all, safe.

It is natural for children to want to participate in feeding animals but it is better to encourage them to hide carrot peelings around the field before the donkeys are turned out, or to mix them in with the feeding straw in the stable before the donkeys are brought in, rather than offering treats by hand.

TO BREED OR NOT TO BREED

There are few things in life more heart-warming than the sight of a donkey foal and the temptation to breed from a beloved donkey can be immense, but the harsh reality is that there are countless unwanted donkeys suffering appalling neglect and even death as a direct result of over-breeding.

While some well-bred donkeys may still command a reasonable price, and the rarer breeds would certainly benefit from well managed breeding programmes, there are many unwanted mixed breed donkey foals, jennies and jacks across the western world that are surplus to requirements. Seeing adverts for donkeys and foals on offer for a few pounds or free ‘to a good home’ is heart-breaking, and we live in an age where life is cheap. Do not be fooled into purchasing a pair of breeding donkeys in the hope that there can be some financial remuneration. The costs involved in caring properly even for little donkeys are significant (more so if you do not own your own land) and the day-to-day expenses, if the donkeys are to be well looked after, cannot be recouped through the sale of one top-class foal.

It can be tempting to over-handle donkey foals. Quiet interactions from an early age help the donkey develop good life skills, but too much fussing and petting can create problem behaviours as the youngster starts to mature.

Breeding from your donkey is a big responsibility. Unless you have taken on an unwanted jenny that is already in foal, diligent research beforehand and the support of an experienced breeder will minimize the risks of problems arising during birth and throughout the donkey’s life.

Jacks should ideally be cared for by people with some experience. They require careful management and handling to prevent them from causing problems created by testosterone, breeding when too young or covering a jenny that is not mature enough to withstand the rigours of carrying a foal full term. Donkeys are talented escape artists and think nothing of climbing over or under fencing if the motive to do so is high. We recommend that any male donkey not destined to be used in a breeding programme is gelded. Though some jacks may be small in stature, they are still stallions and a high skill level is required to ensure safety for all concerned as even the most quiet- tempered, gentle jack can change dramatically if an in-season jenny is close by. A gelded donkey will have more freedom, will be less frustrated and will generally be easier to handle and train – and thus able to live a more fulfilling life – than an entire jack in the wrong environment.

Good genes and careful planning cannot safeguard the future for any animal. Circumstances change, and with the majority of rescue organizations overwhelmed with ever-increasing numbers of donkeys in need coming into care, there are simply not enough homes or resources to support all the unfortunate donkeys that fall upon hard times. In short, the western world does not need any more poorly bred donkeys, so please think long and hard before embarking down this road.

Donkeys have a relatively long lifespan and, even if you are confident that you can keep the foals you intend to breed, please bear in mind your donkeys might outlive you. While the average life of a donkey in the UK is around twenty-seven to thirty years, a healthy donkey could potentially live for over forty years. If you do decide that you want to pursue the delights of donkey breeding, consider setting aside some money in a no-risk savings plan to support your donkeys if your own situation changes. If you cannot afford to put aside some money to protect your donkeys’ future, it might be best not to bring any more lives into the world. If you can set aside some money, make sure that you have discussed your plans with every family member. It may be your children, friends or relatives who will inherit the donkeys that you choose to breed, or step in to care for them if you become unwell. As guardian of any animals, it is wise to make provision for them in your will.

If you do choose to explore the option of breeding from your donkey, get advice from experienced, registered breeders. Any animal used for breeding, whether it be a jenny or a jack, should be of top quality, with a good temperament, good health and excellent conformation. It can be hard to be objective when you have an emotional attachment to an animal and, unless you are experienced, you may not recognize what constitutes good conformation, so get your donkey assessed by someone in the know. If you are advised not to breed from your donkey, then don’t!

If you have thoroughly considered all the salient points with regard to breeding and decide to go ahead, do your research first. Read as much as you can on the subject of breeding and select a well-bred registered jack with good blood lines. A reputable breeder will not let their stud donkeys cover a poor quality jenny, so be wary of anyone who offers a jack for stud services without asking questions prior to covering. Avoid breeding from a jenny before she reaches physical maturity, which is around five to six years of age, and spend time working with her to ensure that she is comfortable being handled, stabled and led in a variety of situations. While donkeys can, and do, breed from a younger age, the impact of carrying a foal to full term can have a detrimental effect on a young jenny’s health and development.

2 Husbandry

Every experienced donkey guardian appreciates that donkeys are not small horses with long ears. True, there are some similarities between donkeys and native ponies, but there are also many differences between these two members of the equine family. This can take horse owners by surprise when they first interact with donkeys, particularly if their equestrian experience is limited to a handful of different breed types.

Donkeys can, and do, live quite happily in the company of horses but their dietary and management requirements are not the same as those of the majority of their equine cousins, and this fact should not be overlooked. Regardless of whether the donkey is a Miniature Mediterranean or a Mammoth, they all require understanding, adequate shelter whether it be a stable or covered dwelling, a place to roll, companionship ideally with a fellow donkey, human interaction and an appropriate diet.

If resources are limited, donkeys will lead a solitary life in the wild but the domestic donkey generally prefers the company of at least one friend.

Donkeys also differ from horses in terms of physiology and anatomy, and in their responses to some equine medications. They generally have a higher resting respiratory rate and rarely show the more obvious signs of pain. If veterinary treatment is necessary, it is important that the attending vet understands the differences between these two wonderful members of the equine family.

COMPANIONSHIP

Donkeys are gregarious animals and need the company of at least one friend. In general, your donkey will prefer to have another donkey of the same sex as a companion. Paired donkeys will happily share a feed bowl, and will usually graze side by side or in close proximity to each another. Males and females can live together but some geldings that are turned out with female donkeys of breeding age may become rather thuggish when the jenny comes into season. Jennies may also mount each other at this time.

Donkeys forge firm bonds with their companions and some can become distressed and depressed if parted and may even panic, even if they are only separated by a stable door. This can be a challenge if one donkey requires veterinary attention or cannot engage in rumbustious activities as a result of injury or disease.

The exercises in this book can help to increase self-confidence so that donkeys paired together become less dependent on each other for emotional security. We are not suggesting for one minute that confident donkeys can then be housed alone as companionship is vital, but should the need arise one donkey can be given individual time without inciting panic in their friend.

BODY SCORE

Body scoring provides a way of assessing the physical condition of a donkey. A donkey with a body score of one would be considered to be in poor condition and a donkey with a body score of five would be considered obese. The ideal condition score is three.

A donkey with a condition score of three will have a light covering of muscle and fat on the neck, and the ribs will be just covered by a layer of fat/muscle so that the ribs can be felt with light pressure. He will have good muscle cover on the hindquarters and the hip bones will be rounded in appearance and, as with the ribs, can be felt with light pressure.

Establishing a balance between restricting grazing and providing sufficient exercise and mental stimulation for their donkey to maintain a good body score is an on-going challenge for most donkey guardians.

DIET

Donkeys originated in dry desert countries such as Africa and Asia and have evolved to survive in that type of environment. This can cause problems for donkeys living in a wetter climate with constant access to lush grasslands; this is a common issue in the UK. With diligence and careful planning, however, donkeys can lead long and healthy lives in a variety of climates.

Their origin means that donkeys’ nutritional requirements are considerably less than those of a pony of comparable size. In their native desert environment donkeys eat a mix of dried vegetation from small bushes and other scrub, and are constantly on the move in search of food. Prolonged turn-out in pastures with limited exercise and constant access to rich grass can be detrimental to their health.

Donkeys can become obese very quickly and may develop fatty crests along the neck and fat pads on the body and hindquarters, which can be hard to shift. The fatty pads may also calcify (harden) despite appropriate weight loss that may be achieved through suitably controlled feeding and care.

This delightful and very happy donkey, now in the care of RSPCA Lockwood, has a fallen crest. Donkeys can develop fatty pockets in the neck due to metabolic problems or as a result of being overfed.

If the donkey’s diet is deficient in any way, he may be desperate to consume far more food than his body actually needs. The provision of a good equine mineral block in the stable or the field shelter will give him access to the nutrients he requires without the need for additional supplements in feed. Personally we prefer plain mineral blocks, not tubs that contain molasses.

If your donkey is lacking essential minerals in his diet, you may notice that he tries to eat the block instead of licking it from time to time. If he continues to do this over a period of time, please consult your veterinary surgeon who can run some blood tests to ensure that your donkey does not have any underlying health concerns.

Mineral blocks developed for equines (not cattle) can be left in a bowl on the floor of a stable or the shelter but if your donkeys throw their water around and generally make a mess, you can install a low-level holder to keep the mineral block clean. Check the holder regularly for signs of chewing.

Donkeys are trickle feeders and will spend a great proportion of their day eating. Restricting access to grass is important, particularly during the spring and summer months, but they must have a high fibre food source readily available.

Extreme weight gain or excessive weight loss can cause serious medical problems that can prove fatal. If your donkey is overweight, look at ways you can change your management and feeding routine to achieve and maintain a healthy body score. Implement any necessary dietary changes gradually over a period of a few weeks and, if your donkey is rather portly, look at ways you can lower the calorie intake in an appropriate way rather than imposing a strict starvation regime which could be detrimental to your donkey’s health and well-being.

In the UK donkeys do well on a diet of barley straw, supplemented with grass hay if necessary, and with restricted access to fresh, lush grass. They require little in the way of supplement to this basic diet. A feed balancer can be added to ensure that the diet is not lacking in essential nutrients, but unless the donkey is old, unwell, in foal or lactating, additional feed is seldom required. Some grass hay may be necessary during the winter months but ad lib barley straw should ideally make up a substantial part of their diet.

If you cannot find a supplier of good quality barley straw, oat or wheat straw can be fed to provide the high fibre diet that donkeys require. Oat straw has a higher calorific value than barley straw and wheat straw is more fibrous, so you will need to take your donkey’s individual needs into account. Older donkeys with poor teeth will probably do better on oat straw with additional grass hay if required, while wheat straw will probably be best suited to younger donkeys that have good dental health.

If good quality straw is in short supply or if your donkey is underweight or has trouble eating due to dental issues or ill-health, try feeding a mix of un-molassed chaff with high fibre cubes. If you do need to provide extra feed, source products suitable for laminitic equines or produced specifically for donkeys. Soak the feed to reduce the risk of choking if your donkey bolts his food or struggles to chew appropriately.

As natural browsers, donkeys enjoy having access to suitable, non-toxic, cuttings from hedgerows or logs from trees such as hawthorn, ash or beech and will spend several hours stripping the bark from the stems. Grass cuttings must not be fed, however, as they can cause colic. Vegetables are a much healthier treat option than sugary snacks, and donkeys enjoy pieces of carrots, apples, banana and root vegetables such as swede or turnips, particularly through the winter months when fresh grass is not available. Make sure that any vegetables or fruits you feed your donkeys are fresh, and do not overfeed them.

As browsers, donkeys love to strip bark from logs and trees. The provision of non-toxic logs helps to wear the incisors appropriately, while offering natural enrichment.

Donkeys love to problem-solve. Offering safe toys and containers in which food can be hidden will give your donkeys fun and rewarding mental stimulation and satisfaction.

If your donkeys are stabled, feeding straw from mangers is safer than using a haynet. Donkeys love to problem solve; enrichment that extends feeding time and satisfies a donkey’s inquisitive nature can be provided by placing several footballs on top of the straw in the manger so that the donkey has to push the balls around in order to get to the straw to feed. Make sure he is confident enough to push the balls around. Hiding carrot peelings in the straw will also give the donkey something to do while stabled.

Always ensure that anything you feed your donkey is high quality. Mouldy or dusty hay, straw or feed will have a detrimental impact on your donkey’s health.

WATER

Donkeys may not consume much water in comparison to horses but they do need access to fresh water at all times. Avoid using brightly coloured water buckets that attract bugs, and remember that donkeys do not like stale water – they will avoid drinking water that has stood in the stable overnight. Even if your donkeys do not drink much water, it is advisable to refresh the water supply on a daily basis in both the paddock and the stable and ensure that water troughs are kept clean.

Some donkeys do not like drinking excessively cold water. Monitor the amount of water drunk through the winter months and if you notice that your donkey’s water consumption has decreased during chilly weather, offer a bucket of slightly warm water to see if that is more acceptable.

If you take your donkey out and about to shows or other events, remember to take a container of water from your own yard. Many animals prefer to drink water from home when they travel.

HOUSING

The donkey’s coat is not waterproof and their hooves are porous. Some donkeys do not mind being out in the rain, but constant exposure to wet conditions can compromise their immune system and give rise to respiratory problems, skin diseases such as rain scald, and fungal conditions such as thrush that are detrimental to hoof health.

Providing a place to shelter from the weather and flies is an important part of donkey care.

Appropriate shelter for your donkeys is an important part of their management and care. As well as providing a place to dry out, access to a shelter will offer shade and the opportunity to escape from flies during the warmer summer months. If your donkeys are affected by midge bites, you may need to adapt their turn-out routine during spring, summer and early autumn as midges are most active at dawn and dusk.

Regardless of the type of shelter provided, good drainage and good ventilation are important. The shelter needs to be large enough to accommodate the number of animals that will be using it, with ample space for each donkey to lie down should they so choose, and should be enclosed on at least three sides, facing away from the prevailing winds.

Some donkeys may not be accustomed to being stabled and will prefer a shelter that allows free access to outside space, while others enjoy coming into a stable to rest at night or during the day. It is important to restrict access to grazing if your donkeys live in an area where the pasture is rich, but with good planning it can be relatively easy to provide your donkeys with access to shelter combined with an opportunity to play and browse outside.

If your donkeys are going to be stabled at times, the doors need to be of a height that enables each donkey to see over his door so that he can watch what is going on, but be mindful that a donkey that has been moved into a new environment may jump over a low stable door if he feels unsafe or lonely.

BEDDING

As well as being a main source of food, barley straw makes excellent bedding for donkeys. Some donkeys tend to eat their bedding regardless of what it is, and barley straw is the safest bedding for them to ingest. If you cannot locate barley straw for bedding, you may need to experiment before finding an alternative that your donkeys will not eat. Ensure that any straw you use is of good quality and discard any bales that are dusty or mouldy.

Rubber matting can be a useful base on which to put a thick layer of barley straw and provides additional insulation from cold concrete floors in the winter months. There are many different grades of rubber matting on the market and it is well worth investing in heavy, robust matting if your donkeys like to play. Light cushioned matting can be shredded quite quickly and even though a committed donkey can move even heavy duty matting with relative ease, it is more likely to remain intact should it be utilized as a tuggy toy and dragged around.

TURN-OUT AND FENCING

Donkeys are highly adaptable and can live in a variety of environments. Feral donkeys, presumed to be the descendants of abandoned working animals, can be found in several countries, including Cyprus, the USA, Mexico, parts of the Caribbean, Italy and Australia.

Wild and feral donkeys range for miles, which naturally wears down their hooves and soles, and provides mental stimulation as well as plenty of exercise. A lack of opportunities to engage in natural activities and limited exercise can cause behaviour problems in domesticated donkeys through boredom and frustration. Poorly managed and inappropriate pasture can also have a detrimental effect on their wellbeing. It is the responsibility of the guardian of any animal to provide an appropriate, safe, enriched environment to ensure that natural behaviours, drives and desires can be fulfilled.

Wild donkeys roam through historic Cripple Creek, Colorado. They are probably direct descendents of working donkeys that were liberated when the miners left the area.

As a general guide, two domestic donkeys can be kept for every acre of available pasture but this will depend on several factors, including the size of the donkeys (to a degree), their age and personalities, the layout and quality of the pasture (both rich and poor), daily management and lifestyle of the donkeys, and the availability of other facilities such as a covered yard, and so on.

If grazing has to be restricted through the spring and summer and during wet winter months, the provision of a large covered area or access to a safe yard with hard standing and shelter will give your donkeys the opportunity to stretch their legs, roll and engage in games. Remember that donkeys are naturally inquisitive and may play with anything that is left lying around.

Rolling in dust provides donkeys with insulation against heat and cold in their native desert environment and a domestic donkey will relish the opportunity to enjoy a good roll in the dirt.

Wooden structures may be viewed as a delicacy by some donkeys, particularly youngsters, and post and rail fencing, timber stables, gates and posts may be chewed. If you share your life with an enthusiastic wood gnawer, try to ensure that it is not a response to factors such as an inappropriate diet, boredom or dental problems. Bear in mind that wood chewing is normal donkey behaviour, however, and try to provide him with some logs from non-toxic trees instead to give him a less costly alternative. If you are unsure which trees and shrubs are safe for browsing donkeys, be diligent with your research and take expert advice from reliable donkey specialists; never follow well intentioned but potentially fatal tips from novice owners.

Anti-chew products may be off-putting for some donkeys but they do not always deter a keen wood chewer. Post and rail fencing is expensive to install and can quickly be destroyed by a gnawer. Once you have ruled out all possible contributory causes and supplied other sources of wood, if your donkey persists with chewing the fencing you may have to resort to installing a line of electric fencing inside the perimeter of the field to protect the boundaries and keep your donkey safe. Please note, however, that electric tape or rope should be used with caution where foals are concerned.

As donkeys are both browsers and grazers, hedging may not be suitable as the only boundary to a field, especially if the hedgerow is sparse or not yet fully established.

If you are planning on breeding from your donkey, ensure that the perimeter of the field is suitable. Foals can easily crawl or roll under fencing designed for larger equines, and additional rails placed low to the ground will help to keep your little donkeys safe and secure.

Horse netting can help to keep roaming dogs out of paddocks if footpaths cross the land on which your donkeys are kept, but small donkey hooves can easily become entangled in the netting. If your paddock is netted, or if you need to keep dogs out of your pasture, you can create a safer environment by nailing additional planks of wood or half-round rails to the posts.

Strip grazing is one way of limiting grass intake, as is bringing the donkeys into a stable or yard for part of each day, but an alternative method is Jamie Jackson’s Paddock Paradise system. This provides a track around the outside of the field, which helps to maximize the distance the donkeys walk while turned out, simultaneously minimizing their access to new grass. Depending on the size of the field, the area in the centre can be cut for hay, grazed by other animals such as sheep or perhaps a jenny with a foal, or used to give limited timed access to grass should any of the donkeys need additional feeding.

This system can be further enriched with the provision of a rolling area, appropriate logs for gnawing, and feeding stations filled with barley straw sited around the track. If you do install a track system, remember to provide some shelter and ensure the track is wide enough in places for the donkeys to engage in physical games.

Using the track system, it is quite possible to keep four medium-sized donkeys on just over an acre of field, with access to the track from April to the end of November and access to the middle of the field and the track from December through to March.

Whether donkeys are kept in a paddock with strip grazing or on a track system, regular picking-up of dung is an important part of parasite control, along with regular worm counts and an appropriate worming regime.

GENERAL HEALTH

A donkey’s natural stoicism can make it difficult for owners to know when something is amiss, although an experienced guardian may detect some small change in the donkey’s behaviour that sets alarm bells ringing. Low-grade colic, back or neck pain and lameness (including laminitis) can be easily overlooked.