Yachting Start to Finish E-Book

Barry Pickthall

• Herausgeber: Fernhurst Books Limited
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2019

Beschreibung

Yachting Start to Finish is the perfect book for you if you are new to sailing, or if you are an experienced sailor wanting to broaden your skills and develop your techniques. This easy-to-follow, step-by-step guide takes you through the basic principles, preparing to sail, your first sail and safety at sea. It includes advice on choosing and buying a yacht, essential equipment, boat handling, tides, weather and navigation, all taken from the courses delivered by the UK's biggest sailing school, the UKSA. This book is accessible to all levels, giving those new to sailing straightforward advice, and showing experienced sailors how to take their sailing to the next level with professional tips on how to sail faster and safer. It covers day keelboats and cruising yachts. This book is packed with hundreds of illustrations and photographs, and is a great way to learn, develop and refresh your sailing skills.

Leseprobe

Contents

Getting started

1 Basic principles

Parts of the boat

The science of sailing

Points of sail

Choosing a yacht

Buying a yacht

Transporting and launching keelboats

The rig

Knots, ropes and running rigging

2 Preparing to sail

What to wear

Essential equipment

Getting onboard from dinghy and dock

Rules of the road

Bending on sails, roller furling and reefing

3 First sail

Boat handling under power – mooring and anchoring

Balance, sail, trim

Tides and weather

Basics of navigation

Pilotage and passage planning

Radio etiquette

4 Safety at sea

5 Glossary of terms

Acknowledgements

Getting started

My introduction to sailing began when I was a child, learning the ropes in a family dinghy. It was not until my teenage years that the opportunity came to sail offshore. It began with a blast aboard an Iroquois fast cruising catamaran. The winds were blowing force 4-5 and I dearly wanted all sail up and to lift a hull as we broad reached across the waves. Our skipper was far more circumspect. He put two reefs in the mainsail before we had even left our sheltered mooring, and called for the smallest jib once we were outside the harbour.

We still managed to exceed 10 knots, but I well remember the frustration felt at the time. He was right of course. In a dinghy, you are taught to extract the maximum from the boat, for the worst that can happen is to capsize and get wet. With much heavier keelboats and cruising yachts, the loads are exponentially higher.

Loadings apart, the differences between sailing a dinghy and a yacht are not so far apart. Certainly the basics are the same. One significant advantage keelboats have is that, thanks to their heavy keels, they don’t capsize! The major disadvantage is that, because of their greater draught, keelboats are all too easy to run aground and stay there – unless of course you have one of the Southerly yachts featured in this book with a swing keel that can be raised and lowered at the press of a button!

Nowadays, many people discover the delights of sailing later in life, bypass the traditional dinghy inauguration altogether and are introduced through friends or experiences on holiday, straight to cruising yachts and keelboats.

That’s fine, but buying a yacht is often one of the biggest expenditures many of us will make, so it is prudent to know what you are doing before going afloat, or at least to have an experienced hand onboard to show you the ropes. Better still, enrol on an introductory sailing course like those organised by the UKSA to learn not just the rudiments of getting a boat to go where you want it to, but how to dock, reef, communicate and navigate safely. These are all essential skills, and your choice of boat will be all the more informed once you are competent – and confident – enough, to sail her away for a weekend.

This keelboat/cruising manual takes you through a step-by-step guide based on the UKSA’s teaching programmes and is designed to provide readers with a thorough grounding to enable you to sail a yacht safely.

Sailing is a great participation sport, accessible to all ages. Disability is no handicap either. With audible compasses to guide the blind, sliding seats for paraplegics and wheelchair access or hoists now available on even modest yachts, everyone has the opportunity to get afloat.

You will love it!

Barry Pickthall

Parts of the boat

SB20 (Previously Laser SB3)

The science of sailing

The sight of a jumbo jet coming slowly into land with wings and wheels extended always leaves me in awe. How can something weighing 380 tonnes fly so slowly without falling out of the sky? The answer is the same as that to the common question about sailing: How can a yacht sail as close as 40° to the wind?

It is all about aerodynamics and the pressure differentials on one side of a wing, compared to the other. The aeroplane wing has more curvature on its upper surface. As it moves forward, the airflow streaming across has to travel faster over a longer distance to meet up with the air flowing along the flatter lower surface. This difference in speed leads to a drop in pressure on the upper surface, which results in lift. The faster the plane’s speed the greater this becomes, to the point where the differential in pressure between the upper and lower sections of the wing is sufficient to raise the weight of the plane off the ground.

The same happens over the surface of a sail. The airflow across the back or leeward side travels faster than the air flowing across the windward side. The resulting pressure differentials create the lift that drives the yacht forward.

This force within the sail would drive the sailboat sideways were it not for the lateral resistance of the yacht’s keel. The best demonstration of this is to hold a knife blade in water and move it about, first up and down, and then sideways, when you will feel the lateral resistance. It is the balance in design between the sails and shape of the hull that determines the efficiency with which a boat sails to windward.

Aeroplane wing with adjustable slat used to increase lift at low speeds.

Load-carrying sailing ships from the past were shaped like pointed bricks and only gained a spring in their step when the wind was abeam or behind. If it was nearer to the bow, they had no chance of making any headway. Indeed, vessels caught by head winds for any length of time when going west-about around Cape Horn, would eventually turn and sail around the world the other way rather than waste time attempting to buck into it.

By contrast, a modern keelboat like the SB20 sails very efficiently to windward, providing the crew position their weight to balance out the heeling force of the wind. This efficiency is enhanced by the jib or forward sail, which induces a slot effect in the same way that extending slats on a plane wing improves lift coefficient at slow speeds when taking off and landing. Airflow narrows and accelerates through the ‘slot’ between jib and mainsail, improving the lift coefficient.

The jib channels the air through the slot between the fore and aft sails, speeding the flow around the back of the mainsail to further improve the pressure differential between the windward and leeward sides.

Forces on a sailing boat

Centre of effort

Modern keelboats are so well-balanced that it is quite possible to alter course by adjusting the sails alone. Indeed, instructors at the UKSA will show students how they can vary the centre of effort within the sail plan and the direct effect this has on the course that the yacht sails. They learn that by letting out the jib (which has the effect of moving the centre of effort aft) the yacht will point closer to the wind. Conversely, releasing the mainsail and sheeting in the jib moves the centre of effort forward and changes the balance of the boat, giving it a tendency to bear away from the wind.

Apparent wind

Apparent wind is the actual flow of air acting on the sail as the boat moves forward and differs in speed and direction from the true or prevailing wind experienced by a stationary observer.

When sailing, the apparent wind is the important factor when determining the sheeting angle for sails. The faster the yacht travels, the further the apparent wind angle moves forward and the greater its velocity. Wind indicators on the yacht measure apparent wind. Stationary indicators such as flags on land or moored vessels show the true wind.

The centre of effort is a point within the sail plan where, if it was a card cut-out, it could be balanced on the tip of a pin. This centre point within the rig must be in balance with the centre of resistance of the underwater portion of the hull, a point on the keel. The closer these two points are in the vertical plane the finer the balance will be. This is important to remember when reefing in stronger winds. If you simply take in area on the mainsail and do not change the jib area accordingly, the yacht will exhibit lee helm and will want to bear off from the wind all the time. Conversely, if you take down the jib and do not reduce the size of the mainsail, the yacht will naturally keep pointing up into wind and be very heavy on the helm, known as weather helm.

Driving force of the wind

Close-hauled sailing to windward. The strong lateral force of the wind on the sails is countered by the lateral resistance of the keel, which leads to forward drive up to 40° off the wind.

Reaching beam onto the wind. The most efficient angle of sail. With the sails let out, or sheets eased, as sailors like to call it, the lateral force of the wind is reduced and the energy produced by the sails provides additional driving force.

Running before the wind. With no airflow across the sails, and no apparent wind benefit, all the wind energy goes into pushing the boat forward. Because of the 90° angle of the sails to the wind, the flow between the two sides of the aerofoil is reduced dramatically. As a result, the boat will never sail faster than the speed of the wind.

Points of sail

Head to wind

This is the no-go zone and extends about 45° either side of the oncoming wind direction. Turn too high into the wind and the sails will start to flap, the boat will slow and eventually drift backwards. The only way to make progress is to sail at about 45° either side of the wind with sails sheeted in hard, and make a zigzag course. This is called beating to windward.

Close-hauled: Sailing about 45° from the wind

This is beating to windward with sails sheeted in hard, and crew weight on an open keelboat, like the SB20, out on the windward side to balance the boat. 

Beam reach: 90° from the wind

Sails are eased halfway out, and crew continue to balance the boat.

Broad reach: 120-160° from the wind

The fastest point of sailing. Sails eased three-quarters out.

Training run: 170° from the wind

The safest angle for novices to sail downwind.

Run: 175-180° from the wind

Sailing directly downwind either on port or starboard gybe.  Sails are eased right out; the jib can be set on the opposite side to the mainsail (goose-winged) to project greater area to the wind.

Broad reach: 120-160° from the wind

Close reaching: 50-80° from the wind

Sails are eased out. Crew continue to balance the boat.

Choosing a yacht

Racing, the saying goes, improves the breed. That is certainly the case with yacht design which, in five decades, progressed from traditional narrow, heavy displacement hulls with integral keel and rudder to much more efficient wide beam, light displacement forms with all manner of keel and rudder configurations. Their greater hull volume, developed to increase form stability and improve performance off wind, has the practical benefit for cruising designs of packing more berths, a fully fitted galley and bathroom (we still call them heads) into even the most modest sized yachts.

Southerly 46 RST yacht.

Racing has led to a marked change in profile shapes too. The graceful raked bows have given way to vertical stem shapes drawn to extend the waterline length and minimise weight in the ends and the sickening pitching moment that yachts with long overhangs develop when riding through waves. There is a financial advantage too, for by minimising length in this way, berthing fees are proportionally less as well. The reverse transom, another weight saving solution drawn from the racing world, is now firmly embraced by cruising yacht builders to provide a swim platform and easy boarding route from the dinghy. The most popular underwater configuration is the fin keel and spade rudder similar to that on the SB20. Being a trailable sports keelboat, this fin retracts like a dagger board so that it can be launched and recovered in shallow water from its road trailer, rather than having to be lifted in and out by crane.

Fin keel and spade rudder on the SB20.

Some multihulls employ the same concept with a lifting dagger board fitted in each hull, though unlike a keelboat, they have positive buoyancy and are not weighted, which makes them easy to lift up and down.

Lagoon 380 cruising catamaran.

Cruising multihulls, generally catamarans, have other advantages over monohulls, including greater speed off wind, a large foredeck for sunbathing and enormous volume below decks consisting of a wide communal cabin across the bridge deck and private sleeping quarters split between the two hulls. Their greatest attribute in many eyes, however, is the fact that multihulls don’t heel over like monohulls, but they are more susceptible to weight increases. A full complement of crew and their attendant gear invariably saps their speed advantage.

The concept of retractable keels has been taken to a high level by Northshore Yachts, builders of the Southerly range of swing keel cruising yachts, to provide the freedom to navigate shallow channels and beach the boat, coupled with the performance and greater stability offered by deep draught keels. The cast-iron, aerofoil-shaped keel pivots within a grounding plate and is raised and lowered at the push of a button operating a hydraulic ram. The cast-iron grounding plate has several functions: it serves as fixed ballast, provides a strong pivot point for the keel, and protects the bottom of the boat when drying out. This lifting keel works in conjunction with twin spade rudders, set either side of the stern, which act like two legs of a tripod to maintain a level stance when taking to the ground.

Swing keel configuration on the Southerly range of yachts.

Southerly 43 RST swing keel yacht safely beached.

The twin rudder configuration is another idea to spring from racing. This is a common concept within the wide Open 60 style ocean racing yachts, and being splayed out at 20° or more from vertical, the leeward foil continues to provide perfect control even when the hull is well heeled.

Bilge keels are another popular concept for shoal draught cruising yachts. The twin keels are not as efficient as a single foil when sailing to windward, but their simplicity provides an inexpensive option, especially for people who have a half tide mooring or wish to cruise in areas where harbours dry out.

Physics dictates that the lower the centre of gravity, the greater the stability. Designers have tackled this in several ways. One is the addition of a bulb or ballast wings attached to the bottom of the keel that not only improve the stability factor, but also provide an end-plate effect to the tip of the foil, improving hydrostatic flow.

Twin rudders can provide better control when the yacht is heeled.

A typical bilge-keeled yacht.

Bulb keel designed to maximise stability.

SB20

Designed by Tony Castro, the SB20 is an exhilarating three-person one-design sports keelboat that rewards skill rather than the size of chequebook. It is light enough to be towed behind a ‘normal’ car, is quick and simple to rig and is very responsive to sail. With its lifting bulb keel, the design combines keelboat stiffness with dinghy-like performance and ease of launching and recovery straight from its trailer. And with fleets now across the world, it offers strong international competition.

Length:

20.3ft

6.2m

Beam:

6.9ft

2.1m

Draught:

(keel down)

(keel up)

4.9ft

0.7ft

1.5m

0.2m

Mainsail:

194sq.ft

18.0sq.m

Jib:

100sq.ft

9.3sq.m

Spinnaker:

495sq.ft

46.0sq.m

Displacement:

1510lb

685kg

Maximum crew weight:

595lb

270kg

Crew:

3 - 4 people

Transport:

trailer

Southerly 38

The Southerly 38 is one of the Northshore Yachts range of swing keel performance yachts. Designed by Stephen Jones, this wide-beamed, 6-berth cruiser has a generous cockpit and enormous volume below decks. Her clear, uncluttered deck and modern well sorted rig can be managed by two crew with ease, but it is her novel lifting keel arrangement that owners find appealing.

Length:

39.4ft

12.0m

Waterline length:

36.0ft

11.0m

Beam:

13.0ft

4.0m

Displacement:

21,872lb

9,221kg

Draught:

(keel down)

(keel up)

8.5ft

2.6ft

2.6m

0.8m

Mainsail:

472sq.ft

44.0sq.m

Jib:

100sq.ft

9.3sq.m

Spinnaker:

872sq.ft

81sq.m

Crew:

6 people

Types of rig

Bermudan masthead sloopThe traditional cruising rig with triangular mainsail and full height overlapping genoa.

Cutter rigSimilar to a Bermudan masthead rig, but with a staysail set as an intermediate sail between the genoa and mainsail.

Fractional rigThe modern alternative to the Bermudan rig. The smaller jib makes the sail easier to handle and extra area is carried in the mainsail to compensate.

Yawl rigA two-masted rig with the mizzen set behind the rudder. The mizzen sail is smaller than on a ketch rig.

Ketch rigA two-masted rig with the aft mizzen mast set ahead of the rudder. A popular rig for blue water voyaging because the individual sails are smaller and thus easier to handle.

Gaff rigA traditional sail plan with a quadrilateral mainsail supported at the top by a gaff spar.

Cat/Freedom rigA simple rig popular in the USA with a large mainsail set on an unstayed mast close to the bows. The modern Freedom version with a wishbone boom, similar to those used on sailboards, has found favour with some blue water cruising enthusiasts.

Buying a yacht

It could be one of the most expensive purchases you make, so deposits and payments should be protected just as if you were buying a property.

If you are buying through a dealer or from stock, ensure that the company operates a client account and make payments payable directly to that account.

Check that the contract contains a full specification or inventory. If stage payments are used to purchase hull mouldings, engines, sails, rigging and equipment, ensure that title for these items are transferred to you, clearly identified to the hull number, and insured.

If buying second-hand, check to see whether the yacht is subject to a mortgage. If it is, this will be listed on the boat’s registration documents and recorded in the Small Ships Register.

Make a search, just as you would with the title documents for a property. If the boat is subject to a marine mortgage or loan, ensure that this is discharged before completion.

Title documentation should include:

•Part I Registration;

•Builder’s Certificate;

•Previous Bills of Sale;

•Evidence of RCD compliance;

•Evidence of VAT status (in the EC).

Ensure that the contract is subject to a sea trial and survey. When buying second-hand, commission an independent survey. Don’t rely on one provided by the owner.

Transporting and launching keelboats

Sports keelboats like the SB20 are designed to be dry sailed: stored ashore on their trailers during the week so that they don’t attract weed or require antifouling, and launched and recovered on their trailer each time they are sailed. Many sailing clubs and marinas now have a secure pen to store the boats in and a slipway or crane to get them in and out of the water, but it is almost just as easy to drop the mast and tow the boat home.

Towing regulations in many countries stipulate that the dry weight of the towing vehicle must, at a minimum, equal the weight of the trailer, which should also have brakes. Some countries also restrict the driving age to those over 21 who must also pass an additional test, so do check that your driving licence allows you to tow a heavy trailer and your vehicle is compatible before setting out on the road.

The SB20 weighs 1,400lb (635kg) and with her keel up draws only 9in (23cm) of water so can be towed behind any mid-range family car. Larger boats like the J24 and J80, which have fixed keels, may require a larger vehicle to tow them and a dockside crane or hoist to lift them in and out of the water.

Ensure the trailer is loaded slightly front heavy to avoid it ‘snaking’ out of control when braking.

Loop the safety wire around the ball hitch and lock the jockey wheel in place.

Put the trailer jacks down before climbing onto the trailer.

The temporary crane used to lift and lower the SB20’s keel in position.

Sort out the shrouds and halyards before lifting the mast.