Dude looks like a Pilgrim - Knud Hammerschmidt - E-Book

Dude looks like a Pilgrim E-Book

Knud Hammerschmidt

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Beschreibung

The Saint James Way for beginners. This book was created as a declaration of love to the Camino. It is novel as well as a guidebook that contains useful and entertaining information about El Camino: anything a first time pilgrim may need to know, from the equipment, other pilgrims, and bed bugs to the art of growing a pilgrim’s beard. It is a book for those who do not have enough time (or not yet the guts) for the whole route through Spain. So follow the path of a Camino freshman on his first way!

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Seitenzahl: 144

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2014

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The magic of Galicia

About the author

Knud Hammerschmidt Born in Germany in 1963, married, living in Munich. Traveling is a passion to him, the best way to meet new friends, to discover, to learn and to experience.

Since this first Camino in 2012, he walked the Caminho Portuguese in 2013 and is already in anticipation of all the other ways to Santiago. Presumably in the month of May he can be found along the way.

When he is not traveling, he likes to cook, to surf, to cross town on a skateboard and enjoy the company of good friends in a Munich beer garden.

Among (mostly German but some of APOC too) pilgrims with a strong affinity to social networks, he is not unknown and may even be considered notorious.

http://facebook.com/knudthedude

“Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.” Douglas Adams

This book is meant as a declaration of love to the Camino, as a guidebook and maybe an inspiration and last but not least as, hopefully, an amusement.

“One´s destination is never a place,

but a new way of seeing things.”

Henry Miller

“Not all those who wander are lost.”

J.R.R. Tolkien

“Wandering re-establishes the original harmony

which once existed between man and universe.”

Anatole France

“So throw off the bowlines, sail away from the safe

harbour. Catch the wind in your sails.

Explore. Dream. Discover.”

Mark Twain

For my grandparents and everybody who taught me lessons in life.

Thanks to my pilgrim buddy Tom and thanks to all the cool and lovely people I met.

“You are stardust. You are golden.” *

* Thanks to Joni Mitchell for the quote.

Table of Contents

Dude looks like a pilgrim.

Good idea, caused by a stupid reason

Why Leon – Santiago?

Great Expectations

Some Basics, Facts and some Experiences

The Albergues

Food and Nutrition

Infrastructure Along the Way

The Stages

Maps and Guidebooks

This is Not a Packing List.

Outfit, Backpack and sleeping bag

Accessory, Equipment and Gadgets

What Else?

What about the Walking Sticks?

About Training and some Health Advice

What’s Hot and What’s Not: Some Pilgrims Etiquette

Other Pilgrims

How To Grow A Beard Without Looking Like A Wood Gnome & Other Unimportant Beauty Advices.

Blisters, Bugs and Other Forms of Wildlife

Discomfort and Dupery

Take a Taxi

Links and websites

So, that’s enough good advice and wisenheimer stuff. Let’s move.

Walking diary Leon, May, 11, 2012

Some facts about Leon:

Walking diary

Leon - Villadangos del Paramo, May, 12, 2012

Some facts about the stage Leon-Villadangos:

Walking diary

Villadangos – Astorga, May, 13, 2012

Some facts about the stage Villadangos-Astorga:

Walking diary

Astorga - Foncebadon May, 14, 2012

Some facts about the stage Astorga -Foncebadon:

Walking diary

Foncebadon - Ponferrada May, 15, 2012

Some facts about the stage Foncebadon -Ponferrada:

Walking diary

Ponferrada – Villafranca del Bierzo May, 16, 2012

Some facts about the stage Ponferrada – Villafranca:

Walking diary

Villafranca del Bierzo – O´Cebreiro May, 17, 2012

Some facts about the stage Villafranca – O´Cebreiro:

Walking diary

O´Cebreiro – Triacastela, May, 17, 2012

Some facts about the stage O´Cebreiro – Triacastela:

Walking diary

Triacastela - Barbadelo, May, 18, 2012

Some facts about the stage Triacastela – Barbadelo:

Walking diary

Barbadelo – Gonzar, May, 19, 2012

Some facts about the stage Barbadelo – Gonzar:

Walking diary

Gonzar – Palas de Rei, May, 20, 2012

Some facts about the stage Gonzar – Palas de Rei:

Walking diary

Palas de Rei - Arzua, May, 21, 2012

Some facts about the stage Palas de Rei - Arzua:

Walking diary

Arzua – Monte do Gozo, May, 22, 2012

Some facts about the stage Arzua – Monte do Gozo:

Walking diary

Santiago de Compostela, May, 23, 2012

Some facts about the last few miles to Santiago and some useful information:

Diary

Santiago de Compostela, May, 24, 2012

Some useful vocabulary

Some (simplified) phrases as examples

Dude looks like a pilgrim.

Good idea, caused by a stupid reason

There are as many reasons to walk the St. James way as there are people that walk it. And almost everybody is able to walk the way. As long as one is halfway healthy it is not even a question of age.

Until April 2012, I did not have the slightest inclination to walk on my own feet for a few hundred kilometers through the north of Spain. Of course, I knew about the Camino. But there was no reason for me to do it. I had found my spiritual way in life a long time ago. I was able to carry the weights and burdens of life and I was not that much into sports.

And then, out of nowhere, as malicious as a Disney witch, my midlife crisis lingered round the corner and flashed me an evil grin. My inner Peter Pan screamed like the first victim in a teenage slasher movie. The little scumbag took the chance to remind me of the fact that there was less than one year until I’d reach the magic frontier called FIFTY. I tried to calm him down with a drink and the declaration that fifty is the new thirty-nine. No way, José. My inner Peter Pan wanted some adventure. He told me that it is not hip to be square. He babbled something about backpacks and reminded me of Greece, Indonesia, Paris, Istanbul, Amsterdam and New Orleans. And one of my buddies, Reinhard, who already did the way twice, backed him up and didn’t stop telling me how wonderful the Camino de Santiago is. It took me a few drinks to calm my inner voice, and then I surrendered.

Four weeks later, I’m sitting at the gate of Munich airport, waiting for my flight to Oviedo /Asturias with two weeks time and 320 kilometers to walk. From Leon to Santiago de Compostela.

Why Leon – Santiago?

Of course there are some other possibilities to walk along the way. Some have the luck of having enough time to walk the whole 790 kilometres. Some split the stages over a few years. And some take one of the shorter routes to Santiago, like the Camino Portuguese or the Camino Primitivo, which can be done in an average of two weeks.

I, like many others, had the intention to reach Santiago on my first Camino. It may well be that the way is the destination, but every pilgrim wants to reach Santiago de Compostela. Having followed ancient trails, to a place that has been a destination of desire for so many over more than thousand years. To catch the special spirit. To have arrived together with others one has met along the way.

Since I did not know if I would repeat that kind of walk, and considering the fact that I only had two weeks time, starting at Leon became my choice. Of course another starting point, like Ponferrada, Sarria or Portomarin is possible too, but a normal human being needs about 10 days to get into the real pilgrims groove.

Great Expectations

What to expect? It depends on you. It could be one of the best experiences in your entire life, maybe just a good time, or possibly tears and pain.

The best scenario is to expect nothing and to be prepared for everything. It does not matter if you do the way for spiritual or religious reasons, because of a sportive or adventurous challenge or just for fun. Whatever you experience, the way will change you.

You will go beyond your known limits. You will meet people from all over the planet, and you are going to know them in a way you never will in your daily life, because you and they all share the same exceptional circumstances. You will experience extremes, hospitality, friendship, amiability, love and last but not least yourself.

Absolute strangers might tell you their deepest thoughts, you will have a fantastic time, you will swear and curse, you will be proud of yourself and others, you will sympathize, laugh, savour, drink and enjoy. And when you are back, at home, a part of you will remain there on the Camino de Santiago.

Remember: it is your way. “The Way“ is a good movie, not more, not less. Something like “the way” doesn’t exist. It is always your way. So walk with cheer, an open mind and without expectations – and everything might happen.

Some Basics, Facts and some Experiences

The Credential and the Compostela…

One stamp a day proves your pilgrimage to the Oficina de Peregrinos at Santiago. If you only do the last 100 / 200 kilometres you must verify the pilgrimage by two stamps a day. The Compostela is the diploma that is given to the pilgrims to honour them and their merit. It is written in Latin, even your name will be written in a latin version.

In many Catholic countries, the Compostela is even added to one’s résumé. During an application submission, the Compostela might be an advantage in competition.

Together with a colorful and fully stamped credential, the Compostela is a very ornamental memory. Where do you get a credential? Along the way in every important place (like Saint Jean Pied de Port, Roncevalles, Pamplona) and every bigger place like Logrono, Leon or Ponferrada. And of course you can order it by mail at the associations and fraternities of Saint James all over the world. A choice of them is to be found in the chapter “Links and Websites”.

The Albergues

There are different kinds of albergues along the way. Some are lead by institutions, some by municipalities and some by private owners. They are often cognizable as churchly (paroquial) or local (municipal). In Galicia is another kind of albergue to be found. They are run by the Galician provincial government and have the label “Xunta Gallega”. The price for a bunk bed in one of the above mentioned albergues can be a modest donation (mostly churchly albergues with almost no comfort) between five to eight Euros. Private Albergues offer their beds and rooms between nine and fifteen Euros. I have learned to prefer the private ones if I have the choice. They are often much more tidy and offer better service and facilities.

Some Albergues offer the option to use their kitchen; many have facilities to do laundry and some private ones even offer a laundry service. Every year, there are more new hostels along the way. Many of them are not even mentioned in the guidebooks. New albergues are often promoted along the way by locals that distribute flyers. Computer terminals and Wi-Fi are meanwhile a standard on Saint James way. In interesting, bigger cities, I truly recommend not to stay in an Albergue. Why? Albergues usually close their doors about ten o’clock in the night. If you are having a good time in Leon, for example, enjoying the innumerable Tapas bars and the fantastic nightlife – you don’t want to be the one that has to leave the party first. Sometimes a cheap little hotel is a better choice.

If you need some more comfort and want to make a reservation in advance in a neat little guesthouse or hotel, I can recommend the website: http://www.yourspainhostel.com. The website is very helpful if you are looking for a nice hotel at Santiago, too.

Food and Nutrition

The Spanish cuisine is a bit different from others, and if your stomach is not used to grease and lard, you may have a few digestion problems. Furthermore, if you are from the US, please consider the fact that food in the States is produced differently than European food. The European community laws about food are more strict and do not allow many additives that are used in the US. This might cause irritations too. Please remember, that the chances to get a food poisoning are very low. If you are used to organic grown food the risk is even lower. Many so called food-poisonings are simply an indigestion caused by unfamiliar food. Boost your system! You can get used to a diet that’s different than at home.

Have some hot and spicy Mexican, Indian or Thai-food, try some heavy and greasy soul food, have a few bowls of gumbo and some jambalaya before you come to Spain and it will be a lot easier. Besides it will be yummy.

Vegetarians are meanwhile an accepted form of life in Spain. But the average Spaniard still believes that chicken is some kind of vegetable. If you are not too strict about your vegetarian diet you can ignore that a vegetable soup might be prepared with a poultry broth. Every region in Spain has its own specialties, although some dishes are to be found everywhere. The Spanish cuisine is not very spicy; it is rural and not very sophisticated. Its good taste comes from the quality of the basic materials. So if you give other dishes than steak, fries, bocadillo and hamburguesa a chance, you might be surprised. Vegans: please be strong. I am afraid you have to prepare your food by yourself. There may be some vegan living persons in Spain, but the Camino does not provide this kind of diet actually.

Infrastructure Along the Way

I guess I already mentioned it: El Camino is not the Appalachian Trail and not a trip through the black heart of Africa. Every few kilometres you will pass through a village, a hamlet or a town. There are some parts of the way that are very rural. (Behind Astorga and Ponferrada, for example). This means, that you will find albergues, hostels, small shops, bars and restaurants without problems. But it can take a few days until you find the next ATM or a shop that sells sun lotion.

Triacastela for example has a bank and a cash dispenser, but the dispenser is only available during the business hours of the bank.

Remember to talk to your bank before you arrive in Spain. Let them explain how to be prepared for the financial differences in Europe; ex: European ATM´s seem to be a bit different from American ones. I have seen some frustrated comments on facebook sites of American Pilgrims on the Camino (APOC) about the European ATM´s. While travelling I always carry two credit cards with me. One in case of need, and one to draw money from the ATM. A PIN code is always required!

The Stages

Not everybody walking the way is a sporting ace. Actually most are the opposite. There are a few superheroes that walk in average 40 – 50 kilometres a day. This is very impressive. But there are better ways of being awesome. Most of us are more like Bruce Banner than like the Hulk. A healthy average of 20 – 30 kilometres a day is possible and offers you enough time to enjoy the walk and the surroundings.

Just listen to your body. Work with it, not against it. There is a difference between improvements and forcing one’s body to things it is not used to. After you have done your way, you will have lost a few pounds anyway and will have gained some muscles in your legs and derriere. With an average speed of 4 or 5 kilometres per hour, a short hourly rest of 10 minutes and a longer break around noon, you will have made 25 kilometres very comfortably in seven or eight hours. The first three days will be tough and then it gets easier.

Do not walk with the horde, and do not follow exactly the recommended stages in your guidebook. There are many other, not so popular but remarkable places along the way that will please you. A good side effect is: you don’t need to join the bed race!

Maps and Guidebooks

One of the most common issues is the question of maps. Well, if you are the kind of person that likes a graphic presentation, get yourself a map. On the way you are not often going to use it. I promise. A famous guidebook is the “Brierley”. There are other popular books too, and all are to be found in bookstores and of course online.

This is Not a Packing List.

In the following chapters you will find advice and suggestions about clothing, shoes and equipment, but it is not a packing list as such. On the one hand, I don’t believe in packing lists. On the other one, it is part of the fun to make choices and to get all your stuff together instead of following a list.

Outfit, Backpack and sleeping bag