Meet Me in Gaza E-Book

Louisa B. Waugh

• Herausgeber: The Westbourne Press
• Kategorie: Gesellschafts- und Liebesromane
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2013

Beschreibung

How do people and goods get in and out of Gaza? Do Gazans ever have fun? Is the Strip beautiful? And do TV reports actually reflect ordinary life inside the world's largest open-air prison? Meet Me in Gaza reveals the pleasures and pains, hopes and frustrations of Gazans going about their daily lives, witnessed and recounted by award-winning writer Louisa Waugh. Interspersed with fascinating historical, cultural and geographical detail, this is an evocative portrait of a Mediterranean land and its people.

Leseprobe

MEET ME IN GAZA

Uncommon Stories of Life inside the Strip

Louisa B. Waugh

Praise for Meet Me in Gaza

‘This book penetrates the surface, the dismal images that we have become all too familiar with from news coverage of the Strip, to reveal the more human face of the place, that few have been able to experience let alone describe. Unlike any other book about Gaza, this will please, educate and inspire. It is vividly written and is infused with a love of life that the author has exhibited in all her previous writing.’

Raja Shehadeh, author of Palestinian Walks: Notes on A Vanishing Landscape

‘Not many of us would have the courage to lay ourselves on the line and go and live in the Gaza strip. Louisa Waugh shows her extraordinary credentials for this courageous undertaking: a deep wellspring of human warmth, a tenacious ability to find the tiny spark of joy in the most dismal surroundings, an incontrovertible honesty, and then the eloquence to tell us the story and make us understand. She treads a steady line of reason through all the absurdities and horrors she encounters, and comes up with a tender portrait of beleaguered humanity.’

Chris Stewart, author of Driving over Lemons: An Optimist in Andalucia

‘Powerful and deeply heartfelt, Louisa Waugh has succeeded in showing us the true face of Gaza. We encounter Palestinians in their living rooms, at work, in cafés, and at parties and weddings ... I urge everyone to read this.’

Izzeldin Abuelaish, author of I Shall Not Hate: A Gaza Doctor’s Journey on the Road to Peace and Human Dignity

Contents

Glossary

Introduction

PART ONE

Hammam al-Samara

the hafla

moles in damp tunnels

sun and moon letters

even the foreigners are escaping!

Gaza from the air

coffee and cigarettes

zift

scents of history

great night for a party!

Tom and Jerry

PART TWO

the milking station

why no one visits the Swailams

Catherine and the Tulip

rocket talk

shortly before six in the morning

PART THREE

pleasure at the weekend

of all the ports

sea creatures

Ramadan for Christians

Operation Smile and Hope

bedouin

bell jar

PART FOUR

the fridge

Bruno does tension zones

How-How

Muhammad and all the things he might have done

the mathaf

imagining A. Love

PART FIVE

the same but now different

the cage

Abu Nidal goes first class to Cairo

chance of rain: zero per cent

the Wadi of Pleasure

Epilogue

Acknowledgements

Notes

Glossary

abid [sing. abd] – slaves

Ahlan wa sahlan! – Welcome!

ashira – extended Bedouin family or clan

baba ghanoush – smoked aubergines mashed with onions, tomatoes, garlic and tahini

beit shar – traditional Bedouin tent made of black wool

dabke – traditional folk dance, popular throughout the Middle East

dunam – a dunam is equal to about 900 square metres

Eid Mubarak! – Happy Eid!

fawdah – chaos

fil-fil – chilli paste in oil

fitnah – temptation, chaos, trial

habibti – my dear (f)

hafla – party

hammam – steam bath

haram – from the Arabic word for sanctuary, means something forbidden, but Arabs use it very casually, to express shame or pity

hijab – Islamic headscarf

Iftar – the breakfast meal eaten after sunset during Ramadan

Intifada – Palestinian uprising against the Israeli occupation

Inshallah – God willing

jawaal – mobile phone

jilbab – floor-length women’s coat

kabsah – rice inlaid with fried almonds, onions, sultanas and herbs, and served with seasoned fried meat

Khalas! – Enough!

laziza – sweet, tasty, delicious (f)

mabrouk – congratulations

maftoul – couscous infused with herbs, olive oil, lemon and chillies

al-mahlab – ‘the milking station’

mahshi – aubergines stuffed with rice, meat and vegetables

malfouf – steamed cabbage leaves stuffed with rice and meat

marhaba – hello

mata’m – restaurant

mathaf – museum

muhajaba – Muslim woman who covers her head and most of her body

munaqaba – Muslim woman who wears the veil

muqawamah – local armed Hamas fighters

Nakba – lit. ‘Catastrophe’ (used by Palestinians to refer to the loss of their land and the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948)

narghile/shisha – traditional Middle-Eastern water pipe

niqab – face veil worn by some Muslim women

sahlab – hot creamy drink made from dried wild orchid tubers, honey, cinnamon and nuts

salam – peace

shabab – youths

shahid – martyr (used for Palestinians killed in acts of resistance against the Israeli military occupation)

shukran – thank you

sijin – prison

souq – market

sumac – crimson spice powder

Taba’n! – Absolutely! (in the sense of ‘Yes, of course’)

taboun – traditional clay oven

tahdiya – ‘period of calm’

taqiyah – traditional white lace cap worn by Muslims

Ummi – my mother

ustaz – teacher

Yallah! – Let’s go! Come on! (depending on context)

Yehud [sing. Yehudi] – Jews (often used by Palestinians to mean ‘Israelis’)

za’atar – blend of crushed thyme, oregano and marjoram

zanana – lit. mosquito; also used for an Israeli drone

zebiba – callus on the forehead that some Muslims have from prostrating themselves to pray

zift – lit. black tarmac; also used for something that is really bad

.

‘Habibti [my dear], this place Gaza is like an ancient rock star. He has all these scars from his many battles: his friends are bad, his enemies worse – he’s always in trouble … But the stories he can tell!’

Anonymous

Human beings travelling far and wide have turned into the very monsters they chased off the map

Judith Schalansky, novelist and cartographer

Introduction

The beach is quiet. Most of the tables and chairs have been packed away, the umbrellas folded. The carousel has just been turned off. The humid heatwave of summer has cooled a bit and now the air’s soft and warm, tinged with salt. I pass a posse of kids shrieking with joy as they splash about in the shallows. A few young men stand waist-high in the waves, their shirts stripped off and wet skin slick, bathing their horses in the healing salt water. One of them catches my eye and winks. When I wink back, he raises his face to the sky and roars with laughter.

I am weary as an insomniac, but still need to walk. I’ve been in northern Gaza all day, interviewing parents. Some wept while telling us about their kids; others just stared blankly at the walls and spoke in dull monologues as if they were trapped in fog. After a day like this, the beach is my sanctuary. I don’t have to talk or listen to anyone here, just to the waves. I stoop and unbuckle my sandals, looping my fingers through the straps so I can carry them in one hand, then straighten up, exhaling slowly. It feels so different standing on the beach in bare feet, the soft grit squeezing between my toes. Small pleasures matter.

There are no clouds, just clear sky and a blue sparkling tide. I can see a couple of small boats bouncing through the waves. Most fishing boats here are small; the local fishermen only scrape a living from the sea, but can’t imagine doing anything else. If you stroll quietly around the old port, sometimes you hear them before you see them, singing softly as they squat on the quayside stitching their nets. Gazans are salty people – and not only the fishermen.

I wander away from the city, heading south, the roll of the waves lulling me into a pleasant haze. I pass a young couple strolling close together. His open-necked white shirt looks comfortably loose and though she’s completely swathed in black, including a black face veil, she’s walking barefoot like me – and they’re holding hands. Quite daring that, for a munaqaba, or veiled woman. She and I both look back slyly and I can just see her brown eyes smiling. Up ahead a family perch on plastic chairs round an empty café table and a few solitary men are loitering, as usual. One stands erect as a statue, staring out at sea. Another, with a thick beard and legs like a spider, is cushioned in the sand, so lost in his thoughts or dreams he doesn’t even notice me walk past.

I have no watch and my mobile phone is switched off, so I guess the time by the sun. When it is poised, molten, just above the horizon, that’s my cue to start heading home. Just about to turn around, I notice two men right ahead of me, wading out of the sea. The younger one is lean and athletic-looking, his shorts plastered to his skin. The older guy has a full grey beard and he’s wearing a black-and-white striped costume that stretches from his broad shoulders almost to his knees, like a Victorian bather. I realise that I’m staring at them, so I turn on my heel and start walking away. But they’re laughing so playfully I can’t help myself, and glance back over my shoulder – just in time to see the older bearded guy leap up into the air, arc into a graceful backward somersault and land perfectly light and steady on his feet.

His younger friend cheers out loud, then casually flips forward, somersaulting onto the wet sea edge light as a cat. I stand rapt, my mouth open like a fish. The older guy wades back into the water, carefully rinses his hands and pauses, gazing into the sunset flames. His friend takes off, jogging loose-limbed along the shoreline. I take off too and grin all the way home. Another small pleasure.

Back in the summer of 2007 I left my home in Scotland to work for a local non-governmental organisation (NGO) in Ramallah, on the Palestinian West Bank. Local Palestinians sometimes joked that they were living under two occupations – one by Israel, the other by international aid organisations. I could see their point. From north to south, the entire West Bank was besieged by Israeli checkpoints … and expat human rights defenders, aid workers and journalists. Between us we documented everything that moved. When Hamas launched its bloody takeover of Gaza in mid-June that year, I watched it bug-eyed on TV. Four months later, in October, I was offered a job in Gaza City as a writer-cum-editor at a local human rights centre. I was ambivalent about staying on in Ramallah and excited but jittery at the prospect of moving to Gaza. So I decided to go as soon as possible, before I lost my nerve.

Gaza is a strip of the East Mediterranean coastline. Measuring approximately 25 miles by 6, the entire Strip is slightly longer than the Isle of Wight, though only half as wide, and home to approximately 1.7 million people. I wanted to see inside its tatty streets for myself, especially now that Hamas was settling down to rule its new roost. But first I had to secure an entry permit from the Israeli military, who control all traffic, human and otherwise, entering and leaving the Strip. They don’t make it easy. After waiting more than six weeks and being screened by Shin Bet, the Israel security agency, I finally got my permit in mid-December of 2007. I drove down to the Erez border crossing that straddles southern Israel and northern Gaza and walked into the Strip.

My motives for coming to Gaza were simple: I wanted to see and experience it for myself, from the inside. The big political picture is infamous, but it wasn’t (and still isn’t) politicians or militants who interested me. I wanted to meet ordinary people living between the shadows of Israel and Hamas and listen to their stories of street life. I wanted to know, for instance, if Gazans ever have fun. What’s the food like? Is the Strip beautiful? And do TV reports actually reflect ordinary life inside ‘the world’s largest open-air prison’?

I spent far longer in Gaza than I expected to because I enjoyed living there much more than I thought possible. Beneath the myths that have stoked this long, slow burn of a conflict, Gaza City is also one of the oldest continually inhabited cities on earth; an ancient citadel soaked in stories. While learning street Arabic and making friends, I also found myself literally stumbling over local histories – of pilgrims, pagans, madmen, sailors, purveyors of lingerie and Bedouin – that still resonate across the Strip. And I learned that water – both salty and sweet – has flowed through Gaza’s torrid history, shaping the land, its peoples and now its very survival. This book is based on the time I spent in Gaza from the tail-end of 2007 until the autumn of 2010. But more than anything, it’s the story of Gaza herself; a place we have all heard of, but one that most people will never see for themselves. This sun-drenched Mediterranean coastal strip is wracked with violence, grief and political self-destruction. But it is awash with extraordinary stories and histories, salty jokes … and the odd acrobat.

PART ONE

these days you don’t kid yourself

in these dodgy alleys

where a house stood one time

domestic like a crock on a shelf

for with neither dusk nor dawnscrake

the night’s twice as dark –

its double darkness

is up to no good

Walid Khazendar, Gaza poet

.

Hammam al-Samara

December 2007

When I first walk into the Gaza Strip, a man called Hani picks me up at the Palestinian side of the Erez border crossing and drives me to Gaza City. Hani is the accountant at the local human rights centre where I am starting work tomorrow. He looks young and cheerful, and very well fed. Gaza, on the other hand, looks grubby and battered, full of rubble and bullet-smacked buildings, and scraggy donkeys dragging carts along broken streets. Just like I expected. There are green Hamas flags flapping on every corner, women in hijabs, or headscarves, and ankle-length black coats, men with thick dark beards, billboards of martyrs and overflowing bins. It’s like I’ve been sucked inside a BBC news report on Gaza and in a bizarre way it feels almost familiar, because I have seen these images so often on TV.

The first surprise is my apartment, or rather the location. Hani turns left into a side street. Suddenly the buildings are not raw, grey, concrete tenements, but pristine white mansions with turrets and balconies, surrounded by wrought-iron gates. Bougainvillea is spilling over the walls like splashed paint and the palm trees have feathery fronds.

‘Wow!’ I say. ‘This is … different.’

Hani has just lit another cigarette. ‘You are very lucky to be living here,’ he says, smoke pouring from his nose and mouth.

‘What’s this area called?’

‘This is al-Rimal and it is just five minutes from the sea.’

He helps me drag my suitcase and bags up four flights of stairs to my new apartment. It’s huge and comfy-looking, with a balcony on either side – and best of all, a red light bulb in the spacious master bedroom. When Hani stops panting we go back downstairs and he takes me to a supermarket called Metro at the top of the street so I can buy some supplies. Most of the goods on sale are in packets, the majority from Israel. I buy coffee, longlife milk, pasta and, at Hani’s suggestion, bottled water. Then we drive back to my apartment.

‘We will see you at the Centre in the morning,’ he says, escorting me to the gate. ‘Put this number in your phone. They are called Lebanon Taxis. Call them when you are ready tomorrow; it is probably better not to walk alone, just to be on the safe side. Oh, and don’t drink the tap water. Buy bottles at the supermarket.’

‘OK,’ I say, and he leaves.

The first evening in my new apartment, there’s a long power cut. I sit shivering in cold candlelight, decide I’d better get used to it and go to bed early under all the blankets I can find in the wardrobe. When I wake up, there’s still no electricity. I boil water for coffee on my gas stove, have a brief wash in cold water and call a Lebanon Taxi in my stilted Arabic. When the driver pulls up at the human rights centre a few minutes later, the Mediterranean Sea is glittering at the bottom of the street. I clamber out of the taxi, then hesitate at the front door, suddenly shy as a kid at the gates of her new school. But I can’t just loiter out here, so I climb the stairs, push the front door open and am immediately greeted by a young woman with loose, shoulder-length black hair.

‘Welcome to Gaza!’ She holds out her hands to clasp mine. ‘You are Louisa?’

Her name is Joumana and she is the Centre secretary. She shows me round with gliding efficiency, introducing me to dozens of people in various offices, as though she’s done this many times before. After saying marhaba (hello) to dozens of people, we end up at my new office, at the front of the building, just next door to Joumana’s.

‘You will start work tomorrow,’ she says, ‘take your time today.’ She checks I have the number for Lebanon Taxis, repeats what Hani said about not walking the streets alone and goes back to her desk.

Unsure of what to do now, I start checking my emails. As I’m typing messages home, a man sticks his head round the door. He has messy grey hair, big grey eyes set in a thin grey face and a wide crooked smile. ‘I was out when you arrived,’ he says, offering me a cigarette. His name is Shadi and he invites me to join him for coffee this evening at a hotel called the al-Deira. I have nowhere to be tonight, and appreciate the gesture, so we agree to meet up. After work, I take a taxi back to my apartment. Now there is electricity, so I cook myself a late lunch and have a snooze on the couch before I go to meet Shadi.

It’s dark when the taxi drops me at the al-Deira. The hotel is a surprise too: it is arabesque, filled with graceful archways, lanterns, well-watered plants and tiled stone floors where footsteps echo like memories. Shadi is waiting for me in the café at the back of the hotel, which is huge and freezing. I can hear the sea hissing outside.

‘Six thousand, six hundred and sixty-six welcomes to Gaza!’ Shadi stands up, grins at me like an old friend. Welcoming guests is a big deal in Palestine, and his exaggeration makes me laugh, as does his first question, which is, ‘Did you bring any whisky?’

I reassure him that I had so much booze stuffed inside my suitcase, I could hear myself clinking through the Erez crossing. Shadi laughs, exposing brown, smoke-stained teeth.

‘You know alcohol isn’t illegal here,’ – he scans the few other busy tables – ‘just prohibited. We used to buy it in shops like normal people, but the government closed the shops years ago, long before Hamas. Now because of this fucking siege we can’t buy anything.’

In June 2006 a posse of Gaza fighters tunnelled into Israel and snatched teenage Israel Defense Forces (IDF) conscript, Gilad Shalit. In retaliation, the Israeli government sealed the crossings into Gaza and bombed the only power plant in the Strip. Since the Hamas takeover of Gaza, Israel has steadily tightened the blockade and now, says Shadi, everything, from industrial fuel to children’s hearing aids, even orange juice, is restricted or outright banned. Local supermarkets mostly sell dry goods because they don’t rot or need a refrigerator.1

We sit in the café with our coats on, drinking steaming black tea infused with sage leaves. As we talk, Shadi is constantly checking his phone or lighting another cigarette, shifting and restless like the sea outside. He tells me he is from southern Gaza and spent five years studying economics in Algeria, but he hasn’t been out of the Strip since the summer of 2006.

‘I have been a human rights activist more than fifteen years now, I never stop working. If there is even a whisper in the northern Strip, I still hear it.’ He speaks English like a poet.

I drain my cup and huddle inside my coat, but I don’t want to go back to my cold apartment yet. A man with hollow cheeks and deep-set eyes strides over to greet Shadi, then offers me his hand too. Khalil, his name is. As he is speaking to me, a loud dull blast booms close to us. For a few seconds everything in the café stops; customers freeze in their seats, cups in their hands, cigarettes halfway to their mouths. The waiters halt mid-step … then, just two or three breaths later, they continue bearing trays across the café and conversations bubble up again. I’ve never heard a bomb explode before and look from Shadi to Khalil.

‘That was an air strike,’ says Shadi, his voice calm.

‘We should be safe here,’ says Khalil, ‘but we shouldn’t leave for a while.’ He lights a cigarette and sits down.

Five minutes later, Shadi’s phone bleeps with a message: Majid Harazin, senior commander of the militant group Palestinian Islamic Jihad, has just been blown up by an Israeli rocket while driving his car near the Gaza City beach front.2

‘Hamas has warned people to stay away from the car as there might be more explosions,’ says Khalil. His phone has also just bleeped. ‘But Harazin was carrying $100,000 dollars in cash when Israel hit the car. There are dollar bills on fire all around it and people are out there, chasing the money.’

The two men exchange a glance. I look around, imagining the scene outside: $100 bills burning round a charred car, a hulk of roasted flesh still slumped in the driving seat.

I excuse myself and go to find the bathroom, then wander to the front of the café, where huge sliding windows open onto a terrace. I stand out there, breathing in cold salty air. The Mediterranean is glinting midnight blue like petrol and I can see small lights blinking on the horizon. They must be fishing boats. From here they look like a rope of small lanterns loosely strung together.

I don’t feel frightened. I don’t know what the hell to feel.

An hour or so later, Shadi offers to drive me back to my apartment. It’ll be safe now, he says. His car is parked just outside the hotel. It looks like a square biscuit tin on wheels. When I squeeze inside, the dashboard is held together with brown tape and I can’t shut the passenger door. ‘Don’t worry,’ – Shadi chokes the engine into life – ‘my car is the best-in-the-West!’ He leans over and slams the door on my side shut. The whole vehicle shudders and my window slides wide open. I give him a look. We both start laughing and our laughter reassures me.

Over the next few days, Joumana keeps me busy at work at the Centre, editing documents and press releases that have been translated into English and writing official correspondence. Almost every afternoon there is a press release about one or more Gazans being blown up by the Israeli military, and every night I go to bed to the pounding of bombs striking northern and eastern Gaza. The bombs don’t physically frighten me, they sound far enough away – more like resonant booms than the punching detonation I heard from the al-Deira Hotel. I sleep quite well. But a small knot of anxiety embeds itself inside my guts.

I think it’s probably healthy to be slightly anxious here, like having my own early warning system. I just want to manage my fear, not the other way round.

Shortly before I left the West Bank, a friend of a friend, originally from Gaza, gave me some advice. ‘Worry about your own safety, but not too much – there’s no point,’ he said. ‘Just keep your eyes open, don’t do anything really stupid – and laugh as much as you can.’

After work I either go to the Metro Supermarket or take a Lebanon Taxi straight back to my apartment. From my brief look around al-Rimal, I can see that my new neighbourhood is a posh corner of the city, maybe the only posh corner there is. I need to get out more, but don’t know where to go; an hour after work, dusk is already thickening and the power cuts out every night. My landlord – his name is Abu Ali3 – has given me a little electric bar heater, but even when there is electricity it makes little difference. Some evenings I just crawl into bed very early, longing for a hot-water bottle.

It’s almost Christmas. Winter is going to last another two months. Feels like a long time.

Shadi, my colleague at the Centre, monitors the goods that Israel allows to enter into Gaza, including fuel, as part of his job. He tells me the power cuts are just going to get worse.

‘Since October Israel has been reducing fuel supplies to us. Now they have cut 30 per cent of the gasoline [petrol] we need in Gaza every day, 42 per cent of the benzine [diesel] and 80 per cent of the gas [it comes in bottles; people use it for gas stoves].4 If this continues, then the power plant will shut down suddenly. Gaza City will be in the dark, the towns and camps in the middle areas of the Strip too. Can you imagine?’ He shakes his head and swallows a bitter laugh. The Israeli government claims these deliberate shortages are not collective punishment of the population of Gaza en masse, but aimed only at Israel’s ‘enemy entity’: Hamas and its political supporters.

Shadi and I are sitting in his small office at the Centre, in our coats. I’m smoking because the heating is off and smoking distracts me from being so bloody cold.

‘There is only one place to keep warm now, habibti,’ he says, grey eyes glinting.

‘Oh,’ I say, thinking here we go …

‘Hammam al-Samara!’

I sit up straight. ‘What – a hammam, a steam bath, here in Gaza?’

‘Yeesss …’ He rolls the word inside his mouth like a wave about to crash. ‘It is in the old quarter of the city. What is his name, ah, Abu Abdullah … he has been the keeper of the hammam for so many years. You should go and see it for yourself.’

Muhammad, one of the Lebanon Taxi drivers, pulls up in the narrow street outside Hammam al-Samara. It is hewn from oak-coloured sandstone bricks, now rounded like well-baked loaves. A small carved sign is mounted above an arched wooden door, left open just wide enough for a streak of winter sunlight to lead the way inside. I push the door and see a staircase descending into a passageway lit by coloured oil lamps. Irresistible.

Down I clamber, making my way along the passage to another slightly open door. Inside, a man with a thick silver moustache is sitting on a wooden chair. For a moment we look at each other, then he stands up, taking his time.

‘Good afternoon. Is this your first visit?’ As he speaks, his moustache twitches like a little silver fish.

‘Yes. Are you Abu Abdullah?’

‘Indeed I am … Welcome to Hammam al-Samara.’

I am in a large domed chamber lit with a huge iron chandelier. There’s a separate resting area set back into the thick walls, rugs and piles of crimson cushions draped across-wide stone ledges. The light is soft. It feels peaceful and very, very warm.

Ten minutes later, clad in nothing but a thin cotton wrap, I step into the inner sanctum of the steam chamber. I’m lucky: I brought my stuff with me and arrived at the hours set aside for women. As I enter the chamber, a wall of wet heat hits me full force. For a moment I can’t see anything, then realise half a dozen women are either crouched on low stools, scrubbing themselves, or lying on towels on the hot stone floor as though they are sunbathing.

I find a stool beside a stone basin built into the walls of the steam chamber and begin washing my body. The basin is smooth as soapstone from aeons of bathers. I tip bowl after bowl of cold water over my soapy skin. Then, red and tingling, I lay my towel down on the stone floor too and surrender to the heat. Hot water pumps steadily through the old pipes lining the walls like the beat of the human heart. I chat to the woman lying closest to me, both of us dozy as cats. After she leaves, I lie there sweating until my skin feels newborn and my bones soft as oil.

When I finally stagger out of the steam chamber, the woman is still sitting in the changing room, fully dressed, stubbing out a cigarette. She offers me one and laughs as I collapse onto the bench.

‘Come back next week, habibti,’ she grins at me through a veil of smoke, ‘this is the best thing we have in Gaza!’

When I eventually emerge, flushed and damp, Abu Abdullah is in his chair. He asks me if I’ve enjoyed my time. I say yes, and ask him how old this place is.

‘Almost 1,000 years old. This is one of the oldest hammams in the whole Middle East, built in the Mamluk period. But never destroyed …’

‘How long have you been working here?’

‘Forty years. But my family, we are the al-Wazirs, and we have been looking after this hammam for more than one century. It is part of our history.’

I pay him and thank him, then pause by the door, suddenly deeply curious about the histories and secrets soaked inside these old thick warm walls, and inside Gaza.

All I know of the Mamluks is that they were Turkish warriors, originally slaves, who once ruled this region, though I’m not even sure exactly when it was. But now that I think about it, the history of this place could be a key to understanding the violence festering here. I have plenty of time on my hands at the moment and I can spend some of it unravelling the story of this beguiling, broken place.

.

the hafla

The day before New Year’s Eve one of my colleagues at the Centre takes me aside.

‘We are having a hafla tomorrow night. Out of town. Someone will pick you up at your apartment at nine o’clock and we will drive somewhere away from the trouble. Don’t tell anyone and don’t bring anyone with you.’

A hafla is a ceilidh, or gathering. A party. This hafla is going to be out of town because violence is stewing between Hamas and Fatah again. New Year’s Day is the anniversary of the founding of the Fatah movement, the de-facto government in the West Bank, and Hamas’s political enemy. Hamas has banned all public Fatah celebrations in Gaza, claiming its activists are being harassed and detained by Fatah in the West Bank.5

I have been in Gaza just two weeks now, and don’t know what to expect at this New Year hafla. At nine o’clock I am picked up just outside my apartment, as arranged, by a man called Samir and his wife. We drive north and park outside a large detached white villa. Inside, the villa is open-plan, with a sweeping staircase and a wood fire crackling smoky orange flames. There are a few other foreigners like me, and maybe thirty Gazans; most of them seem to be in couples. I’m introduced to everyone in turn – lawyers, businessmen, journalists, local UN staff, all of them elegant, wealthy-looking, confident. The host asks whether I would prefer wine, vodka or whisky. At first we sit around sipping our drinks and chatting, but soon people start getting up to dance. I hesitate, suddenly self-conscious among these strangers, until one of the men extends his hand. ‘Dance with me,’ he smiles.

We dance. And laugh, and get rowdy. At midnight we cheer as the men uncork bottles of champagne. There’s lots of kissing – toasting the New Year and each other – before we descend on a vast spread of meats, salads, dips and warm flatbreads. Afterwards we carry on dancing for hours; a happy, sweaty rabble of men and women, laughing, occasionally stumbling, all of us enchanted. At some point I gaze around me, drunk and happy, mesmerised by the beautiful surprise of being here with these friendly, joyous people.

Despite its blighted history of being invaded and occupied over and again, there have been golden times too, when Gaza flourished and everything seemed possible. Perched at the edge of the eastern Sinai, the ancient crossroads between North Africa, the Middle East and Mediterranean Europe, Gaza was a lodestar of the medieval spice trade, once the most lucrative business on earth. For at least ten centuries Arabian merchants crossed the Rub’ al-Khali, the fabled ‘Empty Quarter’, with fragrant cargoes of frankincense, myrrh and other spices, bound for the port of Gaza. This thriving port, and Gaza’s proximity to Egypt, made the city a renowned spice emporium. It was also renowned for its beauty: back in the sixth century, a wandering Italian traveller, remembered only as the ‘Piacenza pilgrim’, found Gaza to be ‘a lovely and renowned city, with noble people distinguished by every kind of liberal accomplishment [and] they are welcoming to strangers.’6 The twentieth century also saw some good times in Gaza, squeezed in between half a dozen wars and military occupations. Even now, under the shadows of Israel and Hamas, my new friends are making life more than worth living.

Eventually I flop onto one of the couches for a breather, next to a man whose name I can’t remember. He offers me a cigarette and leans forward to light it for me. We sit side by side, smoking and watching the dancers. Stubbing out his dog end, he leans towards me again.

‘You see what a strange life we live here!’ he says, with a sharp laugh. He tells me he is a lawyer. Has been here most of his life. Loves Gaza but hates the politics. ‘We are not fighting the Israelis any more,’ he says sadly, ‘just destroying each other. You’re working here – right? You will see how beautiful and terrible this place is. I hope they are not killing each other out there again tonight.’

He’s talking about Hamas and Fatah. Political adversaries since Hamas was created in 1987 and now violent, bitter enemies, who goad each other like punch-drunk boxers as the roaring crowd flinches.7

I have no idea what time it is when the hafla starts to wind down. But it is very late when we leave the villa. We move quietly, like burglars or absconding inmates, no lingering or banter outside; we just slide straight into the cars and start driving back to Gaza City in small convoys. I’m in Samir’s car again. His wife has already left and a broad-shouldered Gazan called Tariq is on the back seat. The three of us are great friends by now.

Just a couple of minutes after setting off, we see the car in front being stopped by two masked gunmen. Samir curses. But we can’t do anything.

‘Put your cigarette out,’ he says to me, his voice terse. ‘They are al-Qassam.’ 8

Al-Qassam is the military wing of Hamas. These men launch rockets and mortars against Israel and often have day jobs as Hamas police officers. As the car in front slowly pulls away, one of the gunmen motions us forward, gesturing for me to open my window so he can take a good look at us. Suddenly cold sober and dry-throated, I slowly wind down the window, staring straight ahead as he stoops and glares inside the car, his rifle clenched, his face a black balaclava with slits for eyes. He fires questions at Samir.

As he stares us down, I throw a glance at him and have a sudden terrible urge to laugh. It must be the booze. I know this is a bad situation. But the gunman is very short and is wearing small gold reading glasses.

We are being held up by a myopic masked midget.

I press my lips together hard and don’t make a sound until the gunman nods and Samir pulls away as I wind the window back up. Samir swears all the way back, Tariq says we’re lucky and I bray with nervous laughter.

At work the next morning, the colleague who invited me to the New Year hafla takes me aside again and reminds me not to mention the party to anyone. These things need to be kept quiet. People here talk too much. Then he tells me that violence has poisoned this New Year in Gaza.

While we were drinking champagne and dancing to Egyptian pop star Amr Diab, militants from both sides were out on the streets battering each other. Six people have been killed, including a man aged almost 80 – Ibrahim Abu Delakh – who lived with his family in Beit Lahiya, not far from the plush white villa where the hafla was held. Just before midnight, Hamas police officers raided the Abu Delakh home, beat the family up and ordered them to take down the yellow Fatah flags fluttering outside their house. Minutes after the police left, a masked gang swarmed into the house, murdered the old man in front of his terrified family and tore down the flags. The police stood by. Or joined in.