Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear E-Book

Winifred Aldrich

• Herausgeber: John Wiley & Sons
• Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 193

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2012

Beschreibung

Since the first edition was published in 1980, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear has become established as the standard work on this subject and has proved invaluable as both a textbook for students and a reference source for the practising designer.

In this fifth edition, the chapter on computer aided design now has full colour illustrations and reflects the growing importance of CAD to the industry and as a part of fashion and design courses. The rest of the book has been updated where necessary: in particular, new blocks for tailored shirts, new details on how to adapt men’s blocks for women’s wear, and a revision of sizing and labelling information. Colour is now used to differentiate the main groups of patterns and with its tried and tested layout with clear text and diagrams, Metric Pattern Cutting for Menswear is an essential purchase for students of fashion and design.

Leseprobe

Table of Contents

Title Page

Copyright

Acknowledgements

Introduction

Design and pattern cutting for menswear

Tools and equipment for constructing patterns

Aliquot parts

Glossary

Chapter 1: The basic principles - sizing - using the blocks

Metric sizing and size charts

Standard Body Measurements

Small Medium Large Xlarge XXLarge sizes

Body measurement chart for Small Medium Large Xlarge sizes (8cm increments)

Using block patterns

Seam allowances

Pattern instructions

Part One: ‘Flat’ Cutting

Chapter 2: The ‘flat’ blocks – woven and jersey fabrics

The ‘flat’ trouser blocks

The ‘flat’ shirt and overgarment blocks

The tee shirt and overgarment jersey blocks

The ‘flat’ kimono block (woven or jersey fabrics)

Chapter 3: Leisurewear, weatherwear and sportswear

Leisurewear and weatherwear (woven fabrics)

Leisurewear and sportswear (jersey fabrics)

Casual trousers (woven and jersey fabrics)

The basic jeans blocks

Chapter 4: Workwear

Chapter 5: Basic nightwear

The pyjama block

Part Two: Standard Pattern Cutting Processes

Chapter 6: Constructing sleeves

Sleeves – ‘flat’ cutting

Sleeves – ‘flat’ or ‘form’ cutting

Sleeves – ‘form’ cutting

Chapter 7: Constructing openings and collars

Front openings

Collars – basic principles

Standing Collars

Collars cut in one with the garment

Collars and revers

Flat collars

Part Three: ‘Form’ Cutting - Classic and Casual Menswear

Chapter 8: Classic suit jackets

The classic suit jacket block

The classic easy fitting suit jacket block

The suit two-piece sleeve block

To complete suit jacket patterns

Lining the suit jackets

The classic waistcoat block

Chapter 9: Classic and casual trousers

The classic trouser block

Waistbands

Chapter 10: Classic and casual shirts

The classic shirt block

The tailored shirt block

The casual shirt block

Chapter 11: Classic and casual overgarments

Classic and casual overgarment blocks

Adaptations of the blocks

Part Four: Sizing and Fit

Chapter 12: Basic grading techniques

Pattern grading

Grading the ‘form' blocks

Grading the ‘flat' blocks

Chapter 13: Drafting and adapting the blocks for individual figures

Drafting and adapting the blocks for individual figures

Taking body measurements

Fitting problems – trousers

Fitting problems – coats, jackets and shirts

Part Five: Computer Aided Design (CAD)

Chapter 14: Computer generated design and pattern making

Connectivity and marketing

Design creation and illustration

Product Data Management (PDM)

3D body scanning and sizing

Pattern design and modification

Garment sampling – 3D software programs

Pattern grading - 1

Pattern grading - 2

Pattern grading - 3

Pattern grading - 4

Made-to-measure

Production lay planning and marker-making – 1

Production lay planning and marker-making – 2

Plotting and cutting

Product Lifecycle Management (PLM)

This edition first published 2011

© 1980, 1990, 1997, 2006 and 2011, Winifred Aldrich

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ISBN 9781405182935

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Acknowledgements

I would like to thank Alec Aldrich, Ann Rodgers and Dawn Stubbs for their help with the earlier editions of this book; James Aldrich for his technical support; Stephen Chalkley for the provision of my CAD system.

I would also like to thank the following companies who have supplied information and photographs for the chapter on computer aided design:

assyst bullmer Ltd, UK.

Browzwear International Ltd, Israel.

Dassault Systemes, France.

Fast React Systems Ltd, UK.

Gerber Technology, UK.

GRAPHIS-software, Germany.

Human Solutions, Germany.

Lectra, France.

Visualretailing, The Netherlands.

Finally, I would like to thank Nicole Burnett and Andrew Kennerley of John Wiley & Sons who have been responsible for the technical production of this book.

To see other available titles please visit www.wiley.com.

Introduction

The Fifth Edition

Alterations and additions in this edition have been made in order to ally it to the recent changes in the new editions of my books on women's wear and children's wear. This has meant the re-organisation of the different sections of the book. The popularity of easy fitting styles and knitted fabrics has meant that basic flat pattern cutting is used by a large sector of the retail mass-market. Manufacturers of this type of clothing are quite different from those who specialise in formal clothing such as suits. This latter type of manufacture involves form pattern cutting, in which the body shape or the particular traditional style of the garment, dictates the cut.

The introduction of colour in this book has improved the expanded CAD section, and the colour coded sections have made it easier to identify specific processes in the book. After Chapter One, The basic principles sizing using the blocks, the book is divided into five parts.

Part One covers flat blocks and pattern adaptation for a wide range of garments for leisurewear, workwear and nightwear.

Part Two covers the pattern cutting of the basic sleeves and collars. These are standard processes that are used in almost all types of pattern cutting adaptations.