Royal Navy Uniforms 1930-1945 E-Book

Martin J Brayley

• Herausgeber: Crowood
• Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 285

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2014

Beschreibung

Royal Navy Uniforms 1930-1945 uses over 400 illustrations - both period images and new colour photographs of original items - to show the clothing of both Officers and Ratings in World War II and during the years leading up to it, when Naval uniforms underwent significant modernization. The illustrations are supported by detailed text describing the development and use of Naval clothing of the time. Its contents include Officers' clothing and effects; Class 1 and III Ratings' clothing and effects; seamens' clothing and effects; battledress and tropical clothing; miscellaneous clothing, personal effects and substantive and non-substantive insignia. This is the first book to offer a detailed study of Royal Navy clothing in the 1930s and World War II and will be a vital resource for collectors, historians and enthusiasts. All of the major uniform types are superbly illustrated with 470 colour and black & white studio images and period photographs.

Leseprobe

ROYAL NAVY UNIFORMS

1930-1945

MARTIN J. BRAYLEY

THE CROWOOD PRESS

First published in 2014 by

The Crowood Press Ltd

Ramsbury, Marlborough

Wiltshire SN8 2HR

www.crowood.com

This e-book published in 2014

© Martin J. Brayley 2014

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopy, recording, or any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publishers.

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 1 84797 845 5

Dedication

Dedicated to Leading Cook Derrick G. Brayley, D/MX 51983, HMS Gloucester. Killed in action 22 May 1941.

Acknowledgements

As with any work of this type, the finished title is the result of the collaboration of many individuals and institutions, without whose assistance it would not have been possible to complete. I wish to thank the following for their generous help in the compilation of this work: Alan Watson, for kindly granting access to the finely preserved World War II MGB Medusa. Heather Johnson and Margaret Newman of the Royal Naval Museum Library, Portsmouth, for assisting with research material. Marc Farrance of Explosion, Museum of Naval Firepower, for granting access to the museum’s 4.7in AA gun. Tony Drury, of the RN Research Archive. The Historical Diving Society, for access to a DSEA. The Royal Navy Research Archive for kindly providing a number of period images. Richard Noyce of the National Museum of the Royal Navy, Portsmouth. Steve Britton of Britton at War for the loan of period items. Paul Laidlaw for providing images of the Officers’ 5B Dress. Reg Woodward, HMS Mauritius 1944–6. Lieutenant (A) Keith Remington RNVR for the loan of period images. My partner Jeanette Palubicki for her proof-reading skills and support throughout the project. The guys who kindly agreed to model the uniforms: Matthew Barton, Toby Brayley, Jonathan Davies, Matthew Palubicki, Mike Palubicki, John Price, Robert F. Stedman and Alistair Little. And in no particular order, John Bodsworth, Roger Dennis, David B. Howell, John F. Lamont, Lee Parker, and for his continued support, Canadian historian and author Ed Storey.

Contents

Introduction

PART ONE: The Historical Development of Royal Navy Uniforms 1856 to 1930

PART TWO: Royal Navy Uniforms 1930 to 1945

1 Officers’ Uniforms

2 Ratings’ Uniforms

3 Battledress, Khaki Drill and Jungle Green Uniform

4 Miscellaneous Clothing and Equipment

5 Badges

Abbreviations and Glossary of Terms

Bibliography

Index

Introduction

The Officers, Men and Boys of His Majesty’s Fleet and the Royal Marines shall wear such uniforms as the Admiralty in pursuance of His Majesty’s pleasure shall from time to time direct.

(King’s Regulations and Admiralty Instructions, Chapter 1 Article 5)

Much has been written of the warships of the Royal Navy, social histories, campaigns and general histories, but information on naval uniforms of any period has always been somewhat sparse and lacking in detail, particularly with regard to ratings’ clothing. This work sets out to fill the gap in current writing by providing a summary of the clothing and personal equipment used by the Officers and Ratings of the Royal Navy during World War II and the decade preceding that conflict. Whilst duly acknowledging the contribution of the Women’s Royal Naval Service, the WRNS is not covered in this work, but is explored in detail in this author’s title World War II British Women’s Uniforms.

Whilst every effort has been made to standardize the terminology used in this work, it should be understood that contemporary RN publications can often use a number of designations to describe the same item. An extreme example of this confusion is the high neck white woollen sweater issued to submariners. It is variously designated as the Frock, White; Sweater, White; Submarine Sweater; Submarine Frock; and Frock, Woollen, Submarine Service (‘Frock’ is the archaic term for ‘A woollen jersey worn by sailors’). Other than for isolated examples where more than one designation is used in official documents, the alternative names are listed in the text.

On occasion I have felt that detailing changes made outside the period covered by this work would enhance the overall understanding of a subject, or dispel some well entrenched myths and misunderstandings. It is my hope that anyone reading this work will learn something from my efforts, and above all will acquire a better understanding of the uniforms and effects of the British sailor from 1930 to 1945.

A group of visual signallers in No. 1 uniform with Sennit hats pose for a photograph during a Sunday in harbour. c.1900.

PART ONE

The Historical Development of Royal Navy Uniforms 1856 to 1930

The first uniform regulations for the Royal Navy were issued by Lord Anson in 1748 to overcome ‘the inconvenience arising from the want of an establishment of rank and precedence between His Majesty’s Sea and Land Officers, as well as from the want of a due distinction among the Sea Officers themselves’. At the time Britain was the only European nation that did not have a regulation uniform for naval officers. The new uniform regulations provided for an elaborate and ornate Dress uniform for formal wear, and an Undress uniform for everyday wear.

In 1767 the Undress uniform was adopted as the Dress uniform, and a simpler Undress uniform was introduced because the cost of the gold lace used in the old Dress uniform had become prohibitive. In 1783 a highly elaborate Dress uniform with slash cuffs was provided for Flag Officers, but this was simplified only four years later again due to the expense. The cost of Britain’s countless wars brought about changes to the uniform in 1795 when a plain blue frock coat was introduced for Undress wear, and epaulettes were introduced for senior naval officers. Dress uniform facings were also changed to blue. The use of epaulettes was extended to junior officers when in 1812 a single epaulette was authorized to be worn on the right shoulder by lieutenants. Dress uniform facings reverted to white in the same year and remained so, apart from the period between 1830 and 1843 when they were red.

Uniform regulations in book form and containing illustrative plates were first published in 1825; this edition introduced a blue cloth cap and Round Jacket, without skirts and worn open, as Undress uniform for wear at sea. Dress uniform Cocked Hats were henceforth to be worn uniformly in the ‘fore and aft’ at all times. In 1828 elaborate lapels disappeared from coats, which were in future to be worn buttoned up, and pantaloons or trousers replaced the white breeches previously worn. In 1856 white trousers were discontinued for home service use, and a cap badge on mohair band was introduced for wear by Officers on the cloth cap.

In 1861 the rank of Sub Lieutenant replaced that of Mate, necessitating a revision of commissioned rank structure and the addition of a rank stripe to that worn by Lieutenants, Commanders and Captains, who henceforth were to wear two, three and four stripes respectively. In 1863 distinction colours were introduced for wear between the rank stripes of civil branch officers. Also in 1863 a white cap cover was introduced for hot-weather wear on black caps.

In 1877 senior lieutenants of eight years’ seniority were granted a half stripe to be worn between the two lieutenants’ stripes, although the rank of Lieutenant Commander was not established until 1914.

The year 1880 saw the introduction of a new Ship’s Jacket, to be worn at sea during bad weather or during the hours of darkness. It was only in use for five years. Between 1885 and 1889 a blue cloth version of the tropical tunic was worn, and in 1889 the Monkey Jacket made its first appearance. As the Undress coat it was still in use during World War II.

Illustrated uniform regulations in book form were published in 1825, 1879, 1891, 1924 and 1937.

Uniform regulations for seamen were somewhat slow in their formulation. By the end of the eighteenth century a ‘best’ uniform was being worn by many seamen, namely long trousers, short blue jacket with white taped seams, neckerchief and a round tarred straw or canvas hat. For working dress, canvas trousers and a variety of shirts and headwear were worn. Hat ribbons with the name of the ship painted upon them were in limited use by the start of the nineteenth century. Ultimately, the dress of the ordinary seamen was for quite some time the choice of the individual or the commanding officer of the ship.

However, by the 1850s a degree of uniformity had been established for seamen: a blue collar was being worn, and a round cap with named ribbon gave the seaman an immediately recognizable appearance. In 1857 the first ‘Uniform Regulations for Petty Officers, Seamen and Boys’ were established. Authorized uniform consisted of a Pea Jacket, serge and duck frocks and trousers, Sennit Hat, cap, a silk handkerchief and a comforter. The design of the regulation jackets and other clothing closely followed the clothing types already in widespread use. The white duck clothing was worn with the Sennit Hat as hot weather rig, while the Sennit was also worn with the blue serge frock but covered with black-painted ‘Holland’ fabric. In 1880 the seaman’s jumper was introduced, in white duck and blue serge; the jumper was to be worn outside the trousers, unlike the frock that was to be worn tucked inside the trousers.

A basic selection of badges was worn on the regulation uniform: white badges on blue clothing, and blue badges on white clothing. The white badges were changed to red in 1860. Badges consisted of a crown and anchor encircled by a laurel wreath for Chief Petty Officers (CPOs), while 1st Class Petty Officers (POs) wore a crown and crossed anchors, 2nd Class Petty Officers wore an anchor surmounted by a crown, leading seamen wore an anchor, gunnery instructors wore a gun with crossed cutlass and rifle, seamen gunners 1st Class wore a gun and crown, and seamen gunners 2nd Class wore a gun badge. Other badges were produced over the coming years: in 1880 shipwrights wore an anchor, and in 1884 torpedoes were added to the gunnery specialization and subsequently new badges were introduced with torpedoes and guns in combination with stars and crowns.

In 1873 Chief Petty Officers were granted the use of gilt buttons to replace the black horn buttons previously used. 1890 saw the introduction of different classes of uniform for ratings Classes I, II and III: Class I uniform was the ‘fore and aft’ rig of jacket with gilt buttons and peaked cap worn by CPOs. Class II uniform was the ‘square rig’ of jumper and bell-bottom trousers worn by seamen. Class III uniform was a ‘fore-and-aft’ rig of jacket with black horn buttons and peaked cap worn by men not dressed as seamen.

In 1920 all POs with four years’ seniority were granted the wearing of Class I CPOs’ style of uniform with gilt fastening buttons and two gilt cuff buttons. This was a massive boost for the prestige of seamen POs who had previously worn Class II square rig. The CPOs’ cap badge was henceforth to be worn by POs, and a new badge with the addition of a laurel wreath was introduced for CPOs. Henceforth CPO non-substantive badges were to be worn on the lapels, thus distinguishing them from POs who wore their badges on the right sleeve. In 1925 the period of four years’ acting was dropped to one year before confirmation as PO. The use of gilt cuff buttons by CPOs was extended to all branches under AFO 2713/25. It stated that the wearing of three large gilt buttons on the cuffs of jackets and White Tunics, previously restricted to certain CPOs only, was to be extended to all CPOs. The changes were to be made at the individual’s expense.

Dating from the 1870s, this photo shows a sailor wearing the Seaman’s Round Jacket over the White Frock with the White (Sennit) Hat.

c.1880: the Seaman’s Cap worn with the Blue Serge Jumper.

Student Engineering Officer, morning dress 1880s.

Warrant Officer with sword belt, morning dress 1880s.

Warrant Officers, 1890s. Of note are the cuff buttons and the breast pockets on the Monkey Jacket.

RNR cuff buttons for a Warrant Officer.

A Victorian Full Dress Coat for an executive branch Lieutenant of the Royal Navy. The coat remained unchanged until its demise as an item of dress at the outbreak of World War II.

A Lieutenant RN wearing Full Dress uniform during the 1920s.

Victorian Full Dress uniform cuff decoration for a Commander of the RNR, civil branch.

Victorian Full Dress uniform epaulette for Sub Lieutenant RNR civil branch (silver piping).

A young RN officer wearing the open-collared White Coat, an optional item of tropical clothing worn instead of the White Jacket with stand collar.

A fine study of a Victorian Petty Officer armourer wearing No.1 Dress.

A Petty Officer gunner from HMS Prince George, a Majestic class battleship (1895–1921). His collar appears to have a single broad edging, but in reality the three tapes are stitched so close as to appear as one. He carries the bosun’s call in the knife pocket.

A volunteer seaman of the RNR c.1900. The Reservist wears the brown leather Sea Service Equipment and is armed with a Lee-Metford rifle. The collar tapes have been given a waved edge rather than a straight one.

c. 1910. Stokers wearing the White Duck uniform with Sennit Hat as No. 6 Dress for a Sunday in harbour. The sleeve of the duck uniform jumper was worn short with the cuff high above the wrist.

Seamen wearing the serge jumper with White Duck Trousers and Sennit Hat as the pre-1933 No. 7 or No. 8 Dress.

A Sub Lieutenant of the Royal Naval Division wearing Khaki Service Dress with both RN cuff rank and Army shoulder rank consisting of two pips, equating to Lieutenant.

RNR Reservist of the Royal Naval Reserve Trawler Section. His cap ribbon bears the lettering ‘H.M. MINE SWEEPER’, c. 1916.

Royal Naval Division rating of the Great War wearing Khaki Service Dress, khaki seaman’s cap and 1908 web equipment.

Ratings in No. 5 working dress drill with Canadian Ross rifles on board HMS Royal Sovereign during World War I.

At left is a winter cap with wire grommet, low crown and blue cloth top, and at right a summer cap with cane grommet, duck top and low crown. Alongside the popular commercial caps these patterns were in use from pre-World War I through to the early 1930s.

A rating wearing the blue cap with H.M.T.B.D. (Torpedo Boat Destroyer) ribbon.

Mine Clearance Service arm badge worn on the lower left cuff. The badge was worn by members of the RN service formed in February 1919 to clear sea mines. A Mine Clearance Service cap ribbon was also worn by Class II Ratings.

A Great War period Class III Rating wearing the long coat with the upper buttons worn exposed at the lapel.

A Rating wearing the wool overcoat and blue cap with ‘HM MINESWEEPER’ ribbon.

Interior of the early summer cap with cane grommet, showing the plain crown with the owner’s name stamp and fabric chinstay.

PART TWO

Royal Navy Uniforms 1930 to 1945

It was a requirement of King’s Regulations Article 165 that uniform be worn by all RN, RM and WRNS personnel when inside naval establishments and when on short leave. When on leave for more than forty-eight hours’ duration it was permissible to wear plain clothes, except when proceeding to or from HM ships or establishments and the leave destination. It was not permissible to wear uniform at any time when entering or travelling to or from Eire, for which destination all personnel were required to wear plain clothes. This order was later extended to include Ratings proceeding on leave to Northern Ireland, and also to prohibit the carriage of uniform in baggage while on leave to these destinations, it being required that all uniform items were left in the ship or the establishment in which the rating was serving.

During World War II it was a requirement that respirators were to be carried at all times, and those men who had been provided with a personal issue of a steel helmet were similarly to carry it at all times.

1 Officers’ Uniforms

This section provides the classification and orders of dress of Royal Navy officers’ uniforms, and the occasions on which they are worn. The following numbered classes of Officers’ uniform relate to those being worn in June 1939, a time when Britain was at peace, but preparing for war. The uniforms reflect the nature of the Royal Navy of the era, a Navy whose role had been flying the flag in all the corners of Empire and further afield, with all the pomp and ceremony required of such. Officers’ Uniform Dresses were renumbered in 1934, and all dress numbers referred to in the text relate to the period 1939–45 unless otherwise detailed.

Numbered Classes of Officers’ Uniform

Dress No. 1 Full Dress

The No. 1 Dress was used for state occasions, when receiving the King, the Queen or other crowned heads, and at other ceremonies or events where the senior Officer considered that the occasion warranted it. Full Dress uniform consisted of the Full Dress coat with epaulettes, laced trousers, Cocked Hat, sword, Full Dress sword belt and white gloves. Full regalia of orders, decorations, medals and stars of orders were to be worn. The Full Dress was obligatory wear for all Officers at state balls. Officers below the rank of Commander were authorized the use of the Frock Coat with epaulettes for other Full Dress events if they did not possess the Full Dress coat. If the Great Coat was required to be worn over the Full Dress or Frock Coats because of poor weather the epaulettes were not to be fitted to the Full Dress or Frock Coats.

Dress No. 2 Ball Dress

The No. 2 Dress was Ball Dress, and was used at official or public balls, dinners and evening receptions. It consisted of the Mess Jacket with epaulettes, laced trousers, white waistcoat and white gloves. The full regalia of orders, miniature badges, decorations, medals and stars of orders was to be worn. The use of the Cocked Hat, sword and Full Dress sword belt could be ordered when meeting foreign naval Officers. Officers of Flag Rank, Commodores and Captains could, at their discretion, wear the Undress tail coat in lieu of the Mess Jacket. Ball dress was worn by all commissioned Officers, subordinate Officers above the rank of Midshipman, commissioned Officers from warrant rank, and Warrant Officers.

Dress No. 2A Ball Dress Without Epaulettes

No. 2A Ball Dress Without Epaulettes was used at official or public balls, and at dinners and evening receptions of a less formal nature than those that required No. 2 Ball Dress. The uniform consisted of that used for No. 2 Ball Dress, but the Mess Jacket was worn without the epaulettes. The 2A Dress was introduced in November 1937.

Dress No. 3 Frock Coat with Epaulettes Dress

No. 3 Dress was used for formal occasions including the receiving of heirs to the throne or other members of English or foreign royalty when masthead flags were hoisted, courts martial, funerals, boarding foreign ships of war, when receiving visits from or visiting senior foreign Officers or officials, and ceremonial or other duties where a degree of formality was required. No. 3 Frock Coat with Epaulettes Dress consisted of the Frock Coat, epaulettes, Morning Waistcoat, blue or white trousers, Cocked Hat or Sun Helmet, sword, Full Dress sword belt and white gloves. The Undress sword belt was worn by Warrant and Commissioned Warrant Officers. Full regalia of orders, decorations, medals and stars of orders was to be worn. The Frock Coat was worn by all commissioned Officers, subordinate Officers above the rank of Midshipman, commissioned Officers from warrant rank, and Warrant Officers. No. 3 dress was not worn by Midshipmen and Cadets, who instead wore the Round Jacket.

Dress No. 4 Frock Coat Dress

No. 4 Dress was used for less formal occasions including the receiving of heirs to the throne or other members of English or foreign royalty when masthead flags were not hoisted, also Sunday divisions and Sunday in harbour after divisions, inspections by the Commander-in-Chief or senior Officer, Officer of the guard, ordinary occasions of duty or ceremony ashore, visits to the Commander-in-Chief or senior Officer, and when receiving visits from, or visiting senior foreign Officers or officials. On occasion the Frock Coat Dress was worn without the sword and belt; this included while on leave during daytime, and at dances and entertainment afloat or ashore during daytime. The Frock Coat Dress with Undress sword belt but without sword was worn by the Officer of the watch while in harbour. The No. 4 Dress consisted of the Frock Coat, Morning Waistcoat, blue or white trousers, cap, sword, Undress sword belt and white gloves. Regalia consisted of the ribbons of orders, decorations and medals. The wearing of stars of orders was optional. Epaulettes were not worn with No. 4 Dress. No. 4 Dress was not worn by Midshipmen and Cadets, who instead wore the Round Jacket.

Dress No. 5 Undress

The Undress uniform was the normal working attire of Officers. It consisted of the Undress Coat (popularly known as the Monkey Jacket or Reefer), blue or white trousers, cap, sword, Undress sword belt, and the ribbons of orders, decorations and medals. In colder weather the Morning Waistcoat was also worn. Prescribed use, with or without sword and belt, was for drills, exercises and occasions of duty afloat other than those for which another dress order was prescribed and for patrol, dockyard duties and landing parties. Without the sword and sword belt No. 5 Undress was worn by Officers at home ports going to or from their place of residence, and for all other ordinary day-to-day occasions ashore or afloat or in HM dockyards. The Undress No. 5 uniform was worn by all Officers. Midshipmen and Cadets did not wear the sword belt.

Dress No. 6 Mess Dress

For occasions when a formal dress was required but the Ball Dress was too ornate, the No. 6 Mess Dress was worn. It consisted of the Blue Mess Jacket (or for Flag rank Officers, Commodores and Captains the optional wearing of the Undress tail coat), White Evening Waistcoat, laced trousers, miniature orders, decorations and medals. No. 6 Mess Dress was worn for a variety of events, including dinner in harbour when dining with Flag Officers, Commodores and Officers of corresponding rank when Ball Dress was not worn. It was also worn for such occasions as evening dances and entertainment ashore or afloat, dinners given by Military or Air Force Officers when they were wearing their Mess Dress, and dinner at the tables of Captains or Officers in Command, at the messes of Royal Naval colleges, barracks, medical establishments, wardroom and gun-room messes when Officers of Flag or corresponding Military and Air Force rank wearing uniform were guests. Mess Dress was not worn by Midshipmen and Cadets, who instead wore the Round Jacket.

Dress No. 7 Mess Undress

The less formal No. 7 Dress consisted of the Blue Mess Jacket (or for Flag rank Officers, Commodores and Captains, the optional wearing of the Undress tail coat), Blue Evening Waistcoat, plain blue trousers, and the ribbons only of miniature orders, decorations and medals. No. 7 Mess Undress was worn for dinner at sea when at the tables of Flag Officers and Commodores, and in harbour when guests were not entertained. It was also used for dinner at the tables of Captains or Officers in Command, at the messes of Royal Naval colleges, barracks, medical establishments, wardroom and gun room messes. Mess Undress was not worn by Midshipmen and Cadets who instead wore the Round Jacket. No. 7 Mess Undress was removed from the initial outfit requirements of all temporary Officers and Warrant Officers in January 1942. The Undress Coat was to be worn by these temporary wartime Officers as Mess Undress.

Dress No. 8 White Full Dress

No. 8 Dress was used for state occasions, when receiving the King, the Queen or other Crowned Heads unless specially ordered otherwise, receiving of heirs to the throne or other members of English or foreign royalty when masthead flags were hoisted, or at other ceremonies or entertainments when the senior Officer present considered it desirable to do special honour to the occasion. The tropical No. 8 White Full Dress uniform consisted of the White Tunic with shoulder straps, white trousers, Sun Helmet, sword with Full Dress sword belt, white gloves, and orders, decorations, medals and stars of orders.

Dress No. 9 White Dress

White Dress was a less formal version of the White Full Dress uniform, and was to be worn for courts martial, funerals, boarding foreign ships of war, exchanging visits of ceremony with governors general and other senior foreign and functionaries, and for other occasions of duty and ceremony when White Undress was not sufficient. The White Dress uniform No. 9 consisted of the White Tunic with shoulder straps, white trousers, white cap or cap with white cover (or at the senior Officer’s discretion, the Sun Helmet could be worn), the sword with Full Dress sword belt, white gloves and orders, decorations, medals and stars of orders. Interestingly if the Sun Helmet were authorized for wear there was no difference between No. 8 White Full Dress and No. 9 White Dress uniforms. Prior to 1934 White Dress had been numbered 8A.

Dress No. 10 White Undress

White Undress was the informal version of the White Dress uniform, and was to be worn for the receiving of heirs to the throne or other members of English or foreign royalty when masthead flags were not hoisted; also divisions on Sunday, inspections by the Commander-in-Chief or senior officers, visits to the Commander-in-Chief or senior officer, attending hospitals, Officer of the Guard (except when boarding foreign ships of war), ordinary occasions of duty, and ceremony ashore. Without the sword it was worn on leave in the daytime, and for dances and entertainment afloat or ashore in the daytime. On Sunday in harbour after divisions (with sword), and with the Undress sword belt, but without the sword, it was worn by the Officer of the watch in harbour. Stars of orders were optional for all of the preceding occasions. Stars of orders were not to be worn for the following occasions on which No. 10 Dress was used: drills, exercises and occasions of duty afloat other than those for which another dress is prescribed (with or without the sword, dependent upon the nature of the exercise or drills).

The No. 10 Dress uniform was also used for patrol, dockyard duties and landing parties and, again without the sword, all other ordinary occasions ashore or afloat or in HM dockyards. The No. 10 White Undress uniform consisted of the White Tunic with shoulder straps, white trousers, white cap or cap with white cover (or at the senior Officers’ discretion, the Sun Helmet); also the sword with Undress sword belt, white gloves, and the ribbons of orders, decorations and medals. Stars of orders were optional wear for some of the more formal occasions on which the No. 10 uniform was to be worn. Prior to 1934 White Undress had been numbered 8B.

Dress No. 11 White Mess Dress

No. 11 Dress was worn for formal mess functions in tropical regions. It consisted of the White Mess Jacket with shoulder straps, White Evening Waistcoat, laced trousers and miniature orders, decorations and medals. No. 11 White Mess Dress was worn for dinner in harbour when dining with Flag Officers, Commodores and Officers of corresponding rank if specially ordered by the senior Officer, evening dances and entertainment ashore or afloat if specially ordered by the senior Officer, and dinners at the military or Air Force mess, and entertainments given by military or Air Force Officers when they were wearing their white Mess Dress. Prior to 1934 White Mess Dress was numbered No. 9.

Dress No. 12 White Mess Undress

White Mess Undress was worn for less formal mess functions in tropical regions. It consisted of the white Mess Jacket with shoulder straps, Blue Evening Waistcoat or kamarband, plain blue trousers, and the ribbons of miniature orders, decorations and medals. No. 12 White Mess Undress was worn in tropical regions for dinner at sea and in harbour unless No. 9 Dress was ordered by the senior Officer, at the tables of Flag Officers and Commodores. It was also used for dinner at the tables of Captains or Officers in command, at the messes of Royal Naval colleges, barracks and medical establishments, wardroom and gun-room messes. Prior to 1934 White Mess Undress was numbered No. 10.

Dress No. 13 Tropical Dress

Tropical Dress was worn on tropical stations for all nonceremonial occasions at the discretion of the Senior Naval Officer. Tropical Dress consisted of white shirt with shoulder straps, white shorts, and white stockings and white buckskin shoes or blue stockings and black shoes or laced boots. It was worn with the cap with white cover, white cap or Sun Helmet as ordered by the Senior Naval Officer. No. 13 Dress was instituted in 1938. Officers appointed to the Mediterranean station were authorized to wear No. 13 Dress in May 1939.

Orders of Dress Introduced during World War II

Dress No. 5A Working Dress

The 5A Working Dress could be worn when working at sea and in aircraft at all times, and when on passage by air; also in ships in harbour, naval air stations and naval air sections during working hours and non-ceremonial occasions, but not by duty Officers. 5A Working Dress could also be worn by armed landing parties or during active operations if khaki was not worn; or when doing arduous or dirty work when other clothing might be spoilt. Notwithstanding these regulations, the use of No. 5A Dress was further governed by Commanders-in-Chief and Flag Officers Commanding who had discretionary powers to vary the rules for the wearing of No. 5A Dress in exceptional circumstances.

Dress No. 5B Working Dress for Air Crews

The 5B Working Dress for Air Crews could be worn at sea and in aircraft at all times. Also in ships in harbour, naval air stations and naval air sections during working hours, and non-ceremonial occasions, but not by duty Officers. As with No. 5A Dress, Commanders-in-Chief and Flag Officers Commanding had discretionary powers to vary the rules for the wearing of No. 5B Dress in exceptional circumstances. Working dress for air crews was not to be worn on shore outside naval establishments except when travelling by rail or road directly to or from a flight or duty connected with aircraft; nor was it to be worn during leave, or when proceeding to or from places of residence.

Dress No. 14 Action Dress

The Dress No. 14 Action Dress was to be worn at action stations, or ashore or afloat, on duty or leave, when ordered by the Senior Officer.

Studio portrait of an RN Lieutenant wearing No. 5 Undress uniform.

An RNVR Sub Lieutenant wearing the White Undress uniform Dress No. 10.

Naval Cadets ‘stand easy’ while undergoing sea training. The Cadets all wear dark grey flannel trousers. Grey flannels were unique to Cadets undertaking the three senior terms of their training.

The Army pattern Service Dress Jacket worn with the Khaki uniform. This uniform was worn during World War I by Officers serving ashore with the RND, RNAS and other specialist units. Although still listed in regulations, it was rarely used during World War II. BR81 1937

Uniform Landed During the War

During the Great War only Undress, Mess Dress, White Undress and White Mess Undress were worn. As it had done in 1914, the outbreak of war in September 1939 again brought about an immediate change in uniform requirements for Officers, as those serving at sea during a conflict had no operational requirement for the regalia of peacetime. The Admiralty also wished to reduce the heavy liability for compensation of expensive uniform articles when ships were sunk or clothing was lost due to enemy action, and had declared such in documents drawn up in June 1939.

AFO 2605 of 9 September 1939 ordered that a number of unnecessary uniform items were to be landed. Items no longer required were the No. 1 Full Dress, No. 2 Ball Dress, No. 2A Ball Dress without epaulettes, No. 3 Frock Coat with epaulettes, No. 4 Frock Coat Dress, No. 6 Mess Dress, No. 8 White Full Dress, No. 9 White Dress and No. 11 White Mess Dress. Only the No. 5 Undress, No. 7 Mess Undress, No. 10 White Undress, No. 12 White Mess Undress and No. 13 Tropical Dress were retained as a wartime uniform requirement. In January 1942 the No. 7 Mess Undress was removed from the initial outfit requirements of all temporary Officers and Warrant Officers, and the requirement for a walking stick was removed from all initial uniform outfits. These uniforms remained in abeyance throughout the war, with some orders of Dress never reintroduced.

AFO 2605 was updated in December 1939. The Boat Cloak was added to the items that should be landed ‘at the first port’, but Officers were advised that the Undress Tail Coat, Watch Coat, sword and Undress sword belt could be retained on board at the individual Officer’s discretion.

King’s Regulations article 1697 allowed compensation for Officers and Ratings who had lost kit as a result of enemy action. However, during the war no claims were to be entertained for items lost at sea that should have been landed.

RNR and RNVR Uniform Requirements

BR 62, Regulations for the Royal Naval Reserve (Officers) 1937, provided details of the uniform requirement for reserve Officers. It was to be of the same pattern worn by Royal Navy Officers but with RNR or RNVR pattern cuff lace or turnbacks.