Expert's Guide To Men's Tailoring E-Book

Sven Jungclaus

• Herausgeber: Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2022

Seitenzahl: 94

Beschreibung

Any body shape is 'normal' Instead of forcing the customer into a norm, as it happens in the clothing industry with its ready-to-wear sizes, bespoke tailoring adapts to the people. Each body is individual and unique. There are no extraordinary body shapes in bespoke tailoring. There is also no 'norm' that should be particularly emphasized since every customer brings challenges. In this book, the proven step-by-step instructions ensure that even less experienced pattern designers can work out the ideal fit for men with trained muscles or a pronounced belly to make jackets, pants, etc. - based on individual body measurements. Master tailor Sven Jungclaus has refined his know-how over the years in a practical way and is now passing on this knowledge in a way that is easy to understand.

Leseprobe

Contents

Preface

Body shapes

Taking measurements

Patterns for men with a belly

Under-belly pants for belly figures

Over-belly pants for belly figures

Single-breasted vest for belly figures

Shirt for belly figures

Shirt's sleeve for belly figures

Shirt's collar for belly figures

Single-breasted jacket for belly figures

Jacket's sleeve for belly figures

Collar for the single-breasted jacket

Patterns for Bodybuilder

Pants for extra muscular thighs

Alteration of a regular trouser pattern

Single-breasted vest for the bodybuilder

Shirt for the bodybuilder

Shirt's sleeve for the bodybuilder

Shirt's collar, see p. 64

Single-breasted jacket for the bodybuilder

Jacket's sleeve for the bodybuilder

Collar for the single-breasted jacket for the bodybuilder

More patterns

Pants for the straight body shape

Single-breasted jacket for a straight body shape

Vest for a straight body shape

Pants for strong hips

Single-breasted jacket for strong hips

Vest for strong hips

Appendix

Measurement table for belly figures

Abbreviations

Biography

Book recommendation

Index

Every person is different

Instead of forcing the customer into a norm, as it happens in the clothing industry with its ready-to-wear sizes, bespoke tailoring adapts to the people. Each body is individual and unique. Of course, a master tailor also categorizes the customer's body shape, but just in order to then develop the best possible personal pattern. In all variants of drawing a pattern, there are almost infinite possibilities in many places to adapt the pattern and set it up for the customer.

Any body shape is normal

There are no extraordinary body shapes in bespoke tailoring. There is also no 'norm' that should be particularly emphasized since every customer brings their challenges. But with a bit of practice in pattern drawing and conscientiousness in fitting and processing, each body can be dressed optimally.

Assistance by the pro

In this book, the proven step-by-step instructions ensure that even less experienced pattern designers can work out the ideal fit for men with trained muscles or a pronounced belly to make jackets, pants, etc. - based on individual body measurements.

Master tailor Sven Jungclaus has refined his know-how over the years in a practical way and is now passing on this knowledge in a way that is easy to understand. For starters, it is advisable to follow the instructions with the given measurements precisely to learn and internalize the processes. Then, once this knowledge has been consolidated, nothing stands in the way of a pattern with your measurements.

Have fun discovering different body shapes!

The body shapes

Different body shapes

Although there are many different body shapes, they can be summarized in five basic shapes:

the straight shape

the upside-down triangle

the trapeze

the triangle

the circle or the oval

The straight shape

The entire physique is relatively straight. This corresponds to the 'norm' in ready-to-wear clothing. Of course, we all know this norm does not exist, but it seems that most people are reached here. The shoulders are standard, and the hips are about the same width as the shoulders. The waist is, in proportion, not particularly small.

Of course, this 'norm' is available in any size (width) as well as in long or short.

The clothing sizes here would be between 46 and 64 (the 'normal' German size), short between 23 and 32 (half the 'normal' German size) and long between 98 and 128 (twice the 'normal' German size). You can find this pattern for straight body shapes starting on page →. More patterns can be found in the book 'Modern men's tailoring', see page →.

The upside-down triangle

No ready-to-wear suit will fit this customer. There are a few things to consider here. The shoulders are broad and trained, and the chest muscles are pronounced. On the other hand, the waist and hips are relatively narrow and slim. You can choose the standard pattern for the trousers, but you should be aware that the thighs can be very strong (page →). The jacket requires a special pattern and processing. A chest dart under the lapel should be used here. You should also pay special attention to the pressing process (ironing into shape).

The trapeze

This type is a mixture between the straight shape and the upside-down triangle. With the pattern, it is usually adequate to add a chest dart under the lapel (pages 132/133) and draw the jacket a little narrower at the waist and hips. The 'standard' pattern usually works for trousers.

The triangle

Even with this body shape, you can usually follow the 'standard' pattern. The hips are simply drawn wider. Likewise, the trousers will be a bit wider but still correspond to the 'standard' design. A dart or a second pleat may be required at the waistband seam of the front trousers. The patterns for wide hips can be found starting from page →.

The circle or the oval

For this group of customers, the patterns are significantly different than the 'standard' ones. The basic principles are retained here, but you can work without the waist dart most of the time. Instead, a belly dart is worked in so that the jacket or waistcoat is not too wide and 'fluttering' below the belly. When it comes to pants, you have to decide whether the waistband goes over the belly and is held in place with suspenders or it runs under the belly, where a belt is usually adequate.

You can find the clothing sizes of the belly figures on page →.

Taking measurements

Instructions for taking measurements

Waistline (WAI)

The waistline is measured exactly around the waist, just above the hipbone. Here a waist measuring tape is fixed to determine more measurements.

Waistband (WB)

The waistband is measured at the height of the desired position, exactly where the waistband of the pants should sit. This is very individual for each client.

HIP

The hip width, or seat, is measured horizontally around the strongest point of the buttocks.

Neck (NE)

When measuring the neck, care must be taken that the tape measure is not set too high. The circumference is measured at the base of the neck (on the skin), directly above the collarbone. It helps to keep two fingers between the tape measure and neck not to measure too narrow.

Chest (CHE)

When measuring the chest, the tape measure will be placed around the strongest chest point, then passed under the arms and slightly higher at the back.

Sleeve length (SL)

Measure the sleeve length from the shoulder bone over a slightly bent elbow to the wrist.

Height (HEI)

Mostly, the customer knows his height. However, if you do not trust this information, it is measured from the top of the head to the sole of the foot, preferably without shoes. Otherwise, simply subtract the heel height.

Nape to knee (NTK)

The nape-to-knee is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the mid-back across the seat to the knee.

Note

The 7th cervical vertebra is the vertebra protruding slightly at the back of the neck. In the pattern construction: it is called the cervical-vertebra-point CVP.

Depth of Scye / Depth of armhole (DOS)

To measure the depth of scye, push a piece of cardboard under the customer's arm and measure from the 7th cervical vertebra along the middle of the back to the upper edge of the cardboard.

Nape to waistline / Waist length (WL)

The length of the waist is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra along the middle of the back to the tape measure fixed at the waist.

Full shoulder width (FUSH)

The entire shoulder width is measured from the left shoulder bone across the back to the right shoulder bone.

Back width / across back (BW)

It is measured across the back in a relaxed position, from the left to the right arm.

Note

The taken measurements should be used in the pattern instead of the calculated ones with clients that deviate from the 'standard' clothing sizes (broad shoulders, strong back, etc.). The calculated measurements are more used for the theory of proportions.

Shoulder width (SH)

The shoulder width is measured from the neckline to the shoulder bone.

Chest width / across chest (CW)

The chest width is measured across the strongest breast point from the left to the right arm.

Upper arm (UPA)

For strong biceps, this measure should be read necessarily. It is measured around the strongest point of the upper arm.

Nape to breast (NTB)

The nape to breast/chest is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra over the shoulder toward the front to the point of the breast.

To draw a pattern, you will need the depth of breast DOB measurement.

Nape to front waist (NTFW)

Nape to belly (NTBE)

The nape to belly is measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (see explanation on page →), over the shoulder forwards, to the strongest point on the belly. Since there are different belly shapes, such as the high belly, pointed belly or hanging belly, this measurement is essential for a perfect fit.

Note

The measurements nape-to-front-waist NTFW and nape-to-belly NTBE are not the same.

Inside leg (INL)

To measure the inside leg, have the customer pull up the pants into the crotch.

Then it is easy to determine the measurement on the inside of the leg from the crotch to the floor. (If the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted.)

Front pants length (FPL)

First, fix a tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the front length of the pants is measured from the waistband seam down to the floor. (If the customer wears shoes, the heel height is subtracted.)

Note

The FPL, and also the trouser fly are noticeably short at underbelly trousers.

Outside leg (OUTL)

First, fix the tape measure at the point where the trousers' waistband should sit.

Now the outside leg can be measured on the side from the waistband seam down to the floor.

(If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)

Rise

The difference between OUTL and INL results in the rise.

Back pants' length (BPL)

First, fix the tape measure at the point where the waistband should sit. Now the back pants' length is measured from the waistband seam to the floor.

(If the customer is wearing shoes, measure to the top of the heel.)

Wrist (WR)

The circumference is measured at the wrist, directly at the base of the hand. It helps to slide two fingers between the tape measure and the wrist to avoid measuring too tight.

Width of thigh (TH)

The thigh circumference is measured around the strongest point of the thigh, about 10 cm below the crotch.

Width of length (WOL)