My ABU DHABI E-Book

Carlo Reltas

• Herausgeber: epubli
• Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
• Sprache: Englisch
• Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Seitenzahl: 175

Beschreibung

Abu Dhabi, the largest, oil-richest and therefore wealthiest of the seven United Arab Emirates, surprises its visitors with its beauty and splendour in a once barren environment, its ultra-modern infrastructure with the latest developments of the 21st century and at the same time with living traditions from the world of the Bedouins. The rich emirati in a white dishdasha loves his fast car, but also falconry and camel racing, just like his ancestors. His wife dresses in elegant black abayas, but she is also a customer of the luxury boutiques in the malls with all the top Western labels. Carlo Reltas presents 77 interesting places within 14 sections in words and pictures. Firstly, he takes us to the most beautiful place in the Emirate, the Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque, inaugurated in 2007 - a dream in marble and gold. Other superlatives follow, from the emirate's tallest tower to its coldest place. Historical sites and architectural highlights of the new millennium such as the Louvre Museum on the Gulf and the Emirates Palace fascinate the author in equal measure. However, the magic of the "Empty Quarter", as the desert is called here, surpasses all of this, he says. He also shows markets/souks, sports venues, his favourite restaurants and cafés, places on and in the water - his Abu Dhabi in the exciting balancing act between tradition and modernity.

Leseprobe

Carlo Reltas 

MY ABU DHABI

77 interesting Places in the Gulf Emirate

For Kosimar

Carlo Reltas

My 

ABU DHABI

77 interesting Places 

in the

Gulf Emirate

CARE Publishing

Heppenheim

Cover picture: 

Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque 

(View from the national memorial Wahat al Karama)

All photos 

(also inside the book):  

C. Reltas 

© Copyright by CARE of Sattler 2019ISBN: 978-3-758457449

(Original edition in German "Mein Abu Dhabi" 2019, eBook and softcover)

Publisher: 

 CARE of Sattler

Vala-Lamberger-Straße 20, 64646 Heppenheim / Germany

[email protected]

Distribution: 

 epubli – a service of the Neopubli GmbH, Berlin,  

 www.epubli.com

               Content

Cover

Dedication

Title

Imprint

Preface:  Preserving Heritage, utilising Oil, winning the Future

I.Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque

01 Architectural Masterpiece – A Wonder of Beauty

02 World's largest Mosaic and mix-style Minarets

03 Largest Carpet and biggest Chandelier

04 Mihrab and Minbar – Golden Niche and Pulpit

05 Mausoleum – Tomb of the Nation's Father 

II.Superlatives - bigger, higher, more slanted, colder

06 Burj Mohammed – Abu Dhabis highest Tower

07 Capital Gate – The World's most slanted Tower

08 Aldar Headquarters – The "roundest" Building?

09 Highest flagpole - Four Colours for the UAE

10 Jebel Hafeet – Highest Mountain in the Emirate

11 Zayed Centre – Biggest Stamp Portrait

12 Cryo Studio – Coldest Place in hot Abu Dhabi

III.Palaces

13 Presidential palace – Official Residence of the Ruler

14 Emirates Palace – Luxury Hotel Temple

15 Al Aïn Palace Museum - Home of the Power Princes

IV.Monuments and Historical Sites

16 Founders' Memorial – Thanks to the UAE Father

17 Wahat al Karama – Oasis of Remembrance

18 Qasr al Hosn - Old Fort between Skyscrapers

19 Heritage Village – Life before the Oil Boom

20 Jahili-Fort – Home of Zayed the First

21 Muwaiji – Where Zayed II raised his Successor

22 Hili Grand Tomb – Looking back Thousands of Years  

V.Contemporary Buildings

23 Louvre on the Gulf – Architectural Artwork

24 Etihad Towers – Great View from "Desk 300"

25 Ittihad Square – Heart of the City with Sculptures

26 Aziz Mosque – Allah's Names shine in the Concrete

27 The small Mosque – Hundreds of it in the City

28 Masdar – Shaping the Future in Eco City

29 UAE pavilion – From Expo 2010 to Culture Island

VI.Nature and Parks

30 Mangroves – Canoeing through Nature Reserve

31 Umm al Emarat-Park – Elegant City Oasis

32 Heritage Park – Desert Village downtown

33 Al Aïn Oasis – Palm Plantation in big City

34 Mubazzarah – Greenery at the Foot of Jebel Hafeet

35 Al Aïn Zoo – Safari at the Edge of the Garden City

36 Sir Bani Yas – Wildlife Paradise on an Island 

VII.On the Edge and in the Desert

37 Liwa Oasis – Fertile Arc on the Edge of the Desert

38 Rub al Khali – The Empty Quarter

39 Arabian Nights – At Dunes and Camels

40 Dhafra Festival – Where Love runs into the Millions

VIII.Culture / Museums

41 Louvre Exhibition – Twelve Times Humanity

42 Manarat al Saadiyat – A Haven of Modern Art

43 Etihad Art Gallery – Art between two Worlds

44 Etihad Antiques Gallery – Beautiful old Treasures

45 Warehouse 421 – Fancy Young Art at the Harbour

46 Miraj – Marvels of Islamic Art

47 History Museum – History in "Ghost Train"

48 Mamsha Al Khair – Abu Dhabi's Philosophers' Path

49 Al Aïn National Museum – Tradition and Splendour

50 Emirates Auto Museum – Luxury and Giants

IX.Leisure and Sports

51 Corniche – Promenade for Flaneurs and Joggers

52 Sports City – Who will be Club World Champion?

53 International Tennis Centre – A World  Champion?

54 Ice Rink – Second coldest Place in Town

55 Yas Marina Circuit – F1 Race Course for everyone

56 Equestrian Club – Jockeys chasing Horses & Prizes

57 Al Dhafra Camel Track – Speed in Passing Gait

X.Handicrafts and Traditions

58 Women’s Handicraft – Traditional and Beautiful

59 Al Qattara Arts Centre – Modern meets Tradition

60 Falcon Hospital –  Care for expensive Darlings

XI.Malls, Souks and Markets

61 The Mall – Important Living Space for the Emiratis

62 Harbour Markets – Dates, Flowers, Carpets

63 Winter Wonderland – It's "snowing" in Abu Dhabi

64 Souk Qaryat al Beri – Pretty across the Channel

65 Camel Market – Largest Animal Trading Venue

XII.My favourite Restaurants & Cafés

66 Café Bateel – Here you also meet Emiratis

67 Al Dhafra – A "Mecca" for Fish Lovers

68 Art House Café – Relaxing on the Edge of Art

69 Eighteen Degrees – Dining in the Leaning Tower

70 Al Fanar – Authentic Emirati Cuisine

71 Café Godiva – Where the Emiratis also "sin"

XIII.By, on and in the Water

72 Saadiyat Beach – Bathing Fun for Families

73 Jalboot Tour – Once around the Island

74 Dhow Cruise – The traditional Ship on the Gulf

75 Yas Waterworld – Fun Fair for hot Days

76 Wadi Adventure Al Aïn – Thrill in the Whitewater

XIV.Beyond the Glitter

77 Mussafah – You have to go there for every Screw!

aa Selected Persons of the Ruling Families

bb Map References

cc By the same Author

dd About the Author

Preface:

Preserving Heritage, utilising Oil, winning the Future

     According to legend, Abu Dhabi owes its origin and name to the oryx gazelle. When Bedouins of the Bani Yas tribes from the Liwa oases on the edge of the great Rub al Khali desert (translated "Empty Quarter") reached the islands close to the shore of the Gulf coast on their hunting expeditions, legend has it they saw a gazelle drinking at a spring on a particularly close, green island beyond a ford. They therefore surmised that there would be plenty of fresh water there and founded a settlement on the coast on that island in 1761. It was given the name Abu Dhabi, "father of the gazelle".

Oryx gazelle in the nature reserve on the island of Sir Bani Yas.

    Scheich Zayed I1known as "Zayed the Great" and ruler from 1855 to 1909, succeeded in uniting several tribes and establishing Abu Dhabi, the settlement around Qasr al Hosn Fort, as a regional centre of power through military action and the strategic intermarriage of his sons. However, 800 members of the Bani Yas Federation had previously moved away from Abu Dhabi in 1833 following internal disputes and founded their own emirate in Dubai. Nevertheless, Abu Dhabi experienced its first economic boom under Zayed I thanks to pearl diving and the pearl trade. 

    The abrupt end of this source of income in the 1930s following the invention of the cultured pearl in Japan was a traumatic experience for the Emiratis, comparable to the trauma of hyper-inflation in German economic history. Sheikh Shakhbut, ruler from 1928 to 1966, therefore acted almost overcautiously when nature brought unforeseen new wealth to the tribes in the Gulf: oil and natural gas. Instead of promoting the development of his country and investing in infrastructure, building roads, schools and hospitals, he hoarded the oil revenues when, from 1958 - almost 20 years after he had signed an oil concession agreement with the British - the wells and consequently the income began to gush forth. There was growing resentment among the population and the ruling family. In 1966, the family council urged him to resign. Provided with an allowance, he went into exile in Lebanon.

    His brother Zayed II took over power. He was 13 years younger than the deposed ruler and had already proved himself to be an energetic administrator and reformer as governor of the eastern region around the oasis city of Al Aïn - and not only there. When he stood in for his brother in the capital as Shakhbut went on a long trip abroad, he quickly built a gravel road from the coast to the canal between Abu Dhabi Island and the mainland. After he came to power Sheikh Zayed II drove forward the development of his country with energy and foresight. With the help of the best foreign experts and using billions of dollars from the oil revenues, he initiated a development that made Abu Dhabi a world leader in modern infrastructure within just a few decades. Zayed distributed land and money to the local population, creating a dynamic middle class. However, the backbone of Abu Dhabi's economy is still formed by sovereign wealth funds and, above all, the ADNOC, the Abu Dhabi National Oil Company2.

Drilling rods of an oil platform (here for repair in the harbour)

    Zayed II bin Sultan al Nahyan also used Abu Dhabi's wealth to curry favour with the neighbouring emirates. When the British announced their intention to withdraw from the Gulf at the end of the 1960s, Emir Zayed II and the Emir of Dubai, Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed al Maktoum, were the driving forces behind the founding of the United Arab Emirates (UAE). They wanted to keep the so-called Trucial States together, which had existed since 1853 as "treaty states" in a protectorate-like relationship of dependence on the British. Both emirs believed that only together would they be able to assert themselves against their neighbours. Today, the UAE, which was founded in 1971 and includes the Emirates of Sharjah, Ajman, Umm al Quwain, Ras al Khaimah and Fujairah in addition to the two large emirates, plays the role of a leading power in the Gulf, particularly due to its economic strength.

    Sheikh Zayed II, who had already gained recognition as a leader as governor in Al Aïn by balancing the interests of the tribes, also practised this policy at state and social level. Abu Dhabi, as the largest and richest emirate, always provides the president of the UAE, Dubai always the head of government. Socially, the leader, who died in 2004 and is now revered as the "father of the nation", always stood up for women's rights. They now occupy ministerial posts in the UAE government.

    The old emir was and still is someone like the spiritual leader of his nation. In speeches and poems, he has repeatedly invoked the values of the Bedouin tribes, such as hospitality and openness towards foreigners. His desire to preserve the cultural heritage of the old society is characteristic of the emirate's state cultural policy - especially in a country where the ethnic Emiratis have become a minority. Of Abu Dhabi's 2.3 million inhabitants, around 80 per cent are foreigners, mainly from Southeast Asia. Most of them are on temporary work contracts. 

    Against the backdrop of the economic collapse at the end of the pearl era, the powerful in the UAE have developed long-term plans for the time after the oil and gas reserves have been exhausted. Dubai, as a tourism and financial centre, is the most advanced in this respect. Abu Dhabi is also following this path. Nothing works - especially in the further development of industry - without foreign labour and, as before, just as little without foreign experts. In the long run, this will also become a political problem if the country wants to preserve its heritage on the one hand, but also wants to win the future with the help of oil revenues, foreign expertise and foreigners on the other. 

    The country lives in a balancing act between tradition and modernity. tterns of participation such as the Majlis, where every inhabitant can address their concerns directly to the ruler, worked in a tribal society, but is not so easy to transfer to the high-tech world and mass society. Abu Dhabi's National Consultative Council, with 60 members from leading tribes and families, cannot be compared with a Western parliament. On the other hand, it would be Western hubris to expect the Emiratis to copy our system. 

    Nevertheless, the family elites in the Emirates under the leadership of Abu Dhabi's new emir Sheikh Mohamed bin Zayed3 will have to develop more far-reaching forms of political participation if the balancing act between tradition and modernity is to succeed in the long term. They need the foreigners, but do not want to share their own power. Despite or perhaps because of these contradictions, this highly developed and open country is an exciting destination for tourists. 

    The title of "My Abu Dhabi" already reveals that the author is not aiming for a generally approved portrayal of the emirate. Instead, he is guided by his personal preferences in his choice of topics. Occasionally, he also gives a glimpse of his own experiences. He hopes that readers will enjoy following him to the "77 interesting places in the emirate on the Gulf" despite or precisely because of this.

Carlo Reltas

December 2023 

1  Arabic personal names and place names are usually given in the standard English transcription. This is because this is also what travellers will find on signs and in publications when they visit the area. 

2  English names of companies, hotels, resorts, restaurants, other venues, parks and malls are italicised below, while personal names and (geographical) place names are not.

3 Sheikh Mohamed, the third son of Sheikh Zayed II, had already been the de facto ruler in his role as crown prince since 2014, when his older brother Khalifa suffered a stroke. After Khalifa's  death on May 13, 2022, Mohamed bin Zayed also officially became the ruler of Abu Dhabi and was elected President of the UAE by the heads of the seven emirates on 14 May 2022.

I.

SHEIKH ZAYED GRAND MOSQUE

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque is open to visitors from all over the world.

01   Architectural Masterpiece – A Wonder of Beauty

    Sheikh Zayed II bin Sultan al Nahyan has created a memorial to himself. More than that: the "Father of the Nation", who died in 2004, has left his country and its citizens a world-class monument. Opened in 2007, the mosque on the edge of Abu Dhabi's main island, at the transition to the mainland, shines in brilliant white against a steel-blue sky. It is the eighth largest Islamic place of worship in the world. But it is not its size that makes it so impressive. It is the elegant composition of structure, colours and decor. The splendour is overwhelming, but not oppressive, because the variety of colours is dominated by white on the building and gold in the decor - white, the favourite colour of the sheikh, who was born a Bedouin descendant, and gold, not least a sign of the wealth gained in the oil boom.

    The glistening light here at the transition to the desert intensifies the magic that emanates from the building. The Sahan, the wide prayer courtyard, is already outshone. Huge floral mosaics on its edges make it look like a gigantic tablecloth with a colourful border. The arcades and even the interior are bright and light. Stained-glass windows in the vestibules and skylights in all the domes bathe even the large prayer hall in natural light.

    The building is a mix of Moorish and Mughal elements. The ground plan and the 82 domes bear witness to Mughal influence, the arcades to Moorish models and the minarets combine several classical Arabic eras. In accordance with his state philosophy, which is based on the fundamental values of peace, faith and togetherness, Sheikh Zayed also wanted to bring together the East and the West and the centre of the Islamic world in the architecture, in which 52 master builders were involved. Because he wanted to awaken understanding for Islam among people of all religions, his mosque, the most beautiful place in the emirate, is open not only to believers but also to tourists from all over the world.

Address Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Street / 5th Street | Public transport City bus route 54 and several regional buses from Al Wahda central bus station | Opening hours Sat-Thu 9am-10pm, Fri 4.30pm-10pm | Neighbouring To the north of the mosque Khalifa Park with history museum (see no. 47) and adventure pool

The Zayed Grand Mosque - a composition of white and gold  

02   World's largest Mosaic and mix-style Minarets

    Fairytale splendour like something out of the Arabian Nights surrounds visitors as they enter the mosque grounds - past the water features. The building is surrounded by ten rectangular water basins, tiled in various shades of blue. The marble-white, gold-decorated columns of the arcades are reflected in them. At night, when the mosque is illuminated, this double effect is intensified. During the day, the snow-white Sivec marble from Macedonia shimmers in the sun. As with the stone, the Emiratis have used only the very best from around the world for all other materials.

    Incrustations are worked into the 1096 columns of the arcades, floral tendrils that seem to float. Like the Taj Mahal in Agra, India, they are made using the "pietra dura" (hard stone) technique, which originated in Italy. Precise moulds are hammered out of the stone, into which flat, coloured pieces of precious and semi-precious stones and mother-of-pearl are then glued, for example agate for red, lapis lazuli for blue or amethyst for violet. The observer may delight in these artistic intricacies alone. The golden capitals of the columns echo the shape of date palms.

   The Sahan, the 17,400 square metre open-air courtyard, is home to the world's largest marble mosaic. Up to 31,000 worshippers pray here in the evenings during the major Islamic festivals. The huge patterns of oriental flowers on the edges of the courtyard were created by British designer Kevin Dean.

    Four 106 metre high minarets rise above the Sahan, combining various Islamic styles. The square base of the towers corresponds to the Moorish style, while the octagonal centre section has Mamluk predecessors. This is followed by an Ottoman-style cylindrical section. The golden spire dates from the Fatimid era.

Address Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Street / 5th Street | Public transport: city bus route 54 and several regional buses from Al Wahda central bus station | Opening hours Sat-Thu 9am-10pm, Fri 4.30pm-10pm | Neighbouring to the east of the mosque is the Wahat al Karama national memorial (seeno. 17)

The inner courtyard (Sahan) is adorned with a huge mosaic with floral patterns.

03   Largest Carpet and biggest Chandelier

    Floral patterns also accompany visitors on their way to the main prayer hall. The walls of the anteroom are covered with depictions of tendrils and flowers that are reflected on the white marble floor. The entire 5700 square metre area of the prayer hall is covered with a colourful carpet from Iran. 1200 craftsmen worked on it for a year. It is the largest hand-knotted carpet in the world. It consists of nine pieces that together weigh 47 tonnes, 70 percent of which is New Zealand wool and 30 percent Iranian cotton. The intricate medallion design was created by Iranian artist Dr Ali Khaliqi.

    The hall, which can accommodate 7,000 worshippers, is illuminated by three gigantic chandeliers in the same design. The middle one is the largest at 15 metres high and ten metres in diameter. It weighs almost twelve tonnes and is considered one of the largest chandeliers in the world. All three were manufactured by the German company Faustig from Munich. The brass and stainless steel chandeliers are encrusted with thousands of Swarovski crystals. The colourful glass spheres at the bottom of the chandeliers are striking and look as if drops of water have fallen from the sky onto the prayer rug.

    The room is supported by 96 columns standing in groups of four. Vine lines made of shiny, silvery mother-of-pearl and stars cover them. The interplay of corresponding colours is left to the chandeliers and the carpet. In addition to the LED lamps in the chandeliers, daylight illuminates the room. It falls into the hall through openings in the domes. This creates a friendly overall impression. In the vestibule through which visitors leave the prayer hall, coloured glass mosaics adorn the windows facing the garden. The entire interior is - as the audio guide explains - a "symphony of structure, colour and decoration".

Address Sheikh Rashid bin Saeed Street / 5th Street | Public transport city bus route 54 and several regional buses from ZOB Al Wahda | Opening hours Sat-Thu 9am-2pm, Fri 4.30pm-10pm | Neighbouring to the west of the mosque is Zayed Sports City (no. 52) with a large stadium, tennis arena and ice rink

The carpet and chandeliers in the large prayer hall are awe-inspiring. 

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