The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 11 E-Book

W. D. F. Vincent

• Herausgeber: BoD - Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Serie: The Cutter's Practical Guide
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 94

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

We take great pleasure in presenting this Work to the trade, confident that it will meet a long-felt need. Although it addresses garments somewhat beyond the usual scope of tailoring practice, they nevertheless form a legitimate, and indeed essential, part of it. There is no more reason to decline orders for such garments simply because certain firms have chosen to specialize in them than there would be in refusing to make a pair of breeches or any other item that naturally belongs within the tailor's craft. It is the duty of every progressive house to embrace those branches which, though sometimes neglected, are vital to the completeness of a craftsman's repertoire. As regards the Work itself, the systems, instructions, and details of execution, we submit with confidence that they will be found both reliable and of genuine practical service. They are not the product of theory or speculation, but rather of one who has gained wide and varied experience in this particular branch of the trade and is therefore well qualified to speak with authority. Both the diagrams and the accompanying text have been prepared with the greatest care, uniting clarity with refinement. Every line has been drawn with precision, and every explanation phrased with utmost attention, so that the student may proceed with confidence and the experienced practitioner may find their skill further enriched. No effort has been spared to make this Work worthy of its title: a genuine Guide to Shirt Cutting - not merely a compilation of rules, but a practical manual filled with hints and suggestions of lasting value to both learner and expert.

Leseprobe

"W.D.F. Vincent was born in Junie 1860 and began his career as an apprentice with Frederick Cooper in Yeovil. After completing his training, he briefly established his own businesses in Oxford and later in Maidenhead as a clothier and tailor, though neither venture was financially successful.

While in Maidenhead, Vincent won an essay competition on tailoring, which was open to all members of the National Federation of Foremen Tailors, titled "The Great National Work on Trouser Cutting, or Defects in Trousers." He submitted his entry under the pseudonym "Oxonian" and won the first prize. This success led him to secure a position with The Tailor and Cutter magazine. In the early years, Vincent contributed numerous articles on tailoring methods and techniques to the magazine. However, due to the terms of his employment, these articles were published without attribution to him.

By the 1890s, Vincent became a leading tailoring authority. His books, such as The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making of All Kinds of Trousers, became standard reference work. By 1917, Vincent referred to himself as a journalist. He died in June 1926.

The Tailor and Cutter magazine and academy were operated by John Williamson & Co Ltd. In the 1950s and 1960s, many tailors displayed their Tailor & Cutter Academy Diplomas, signed by W.D.F. Vincent, as the Chairman of Examiners, as a centerpiece in their shop windows. One such example can still be seen on display at the Museum of Welsh Life at St. Fagans in South Wales."

(cf. https://vincents.org.uk/family-history/w-d-f-vincent-tailor; 15.12.2024)

This edition is a reprint of the legendary Cutter's Practical Guide series; the first book was published in 1890. Although W. D. F. Vincent wrote many books on tailoring, these are the most popular. The entire text has been meticulously read, and the images have been carefully cleaned and edited to ensure the highest quality.

Part 01 – Juvenile Garments

Part 02 – Body Coats

Part 03 – Trousers, Breeches & Knickers

Part 04 – Livery Garments in all their varieties

Part 05 – Overcoats

Part 06 – Ladies' Garments

Part 07 – Defects, Remedies, Trying on

Part 08 – Economical Cutting

Part 09 – Lounges, Reefers, Norfolk, Sporting & Patrol Jackets

Part 10 – Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, etc.

Part 11 – Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, etc.

Part 12 – Clerical Dress

Part 13 – British Military Uniforms

Content

Scale

Preface

Classic References

Measuring

The System

Yoked and Fronted Shirts

Variations at Front and Back

Short Fronted Shirts

Surgeon's Shirts

Soft-Fronted Shirts

Tucked Fronts

Elaborately-Finished Fronts

Direct Measure System

Applied Direct Measures

Shirts from Lounge Patterns

Night Shirts

Coat Shirts

Athletic Shirt

Gentlemen's Night Shirts

Under Vests

The Working Man's Shirt

Disproportions

Stooping and Erect Figures

Long and Short Necks

Humpbacks

Corpulency

Special Styles of Fronts, Small Front

The Waiters Front

Reversible Fronts

Insertion Fronts

Cuffs

Pants and Drawers

Pyjama Jackets

Pyjama Trousers

Dressing Gowns

Smoking Jackets

Football Shirts

The Bath Robe

The Shirt Waist

Jockey's Blouse

How to cut and make a Workman's Shirt

Reduced Model of Boy's Night Shirt

Gents Night Shirt

Pyjama Pants

Painter's Coat

Hairdresser's Jacket

Engineer's Combination

Engineer's Overall

Aprons

Plasterer's Apron

Steward's or Carpenter's Apron

Butcher's Apron

Hairdresser's Apron

Barman's Apron

Grocer's Apron

Painter's Apron

Pawbroker's Apron

Butler's Apron

Conclusion

Advertising

PREVIOUSLY PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

https://www.becomeatailor.com

PUBLISHER'S PREFACE

We have much pleasure in submitting the following Work to the trade, in the full belief that it will meet a long-felt want. For whilst it deals with garments somewhat outside the general run of the trade, they nevertheless form a legitimate and even necessary part of it. Indeed, there can be no more reason in declining orders for them, simply because certain firms have chosen to make them the subject of a speciality, than there would be in refusing to execute an order for a pair of Breeches, or any other garment that lies within the natural province of the tailor. It is the duty of every progressive house to embrace those branches which, though sometimes overlooked, contribute essentially to the completeness of a craftsman’s repertoire.

As regards the quality of the Work itself, the systems, the instructions, and the details of execution, we confidently submit that our readers will find them thoroughly reliable and of practical service. They are not the product of mere theory or speculation, but of one who has had large and varied experience in this particular branch of the trade, and who is therefore able to speak with authority upon the subject. The methods herein explained have been tested and proved under the conditions of actual work, and may be relied upon to produce results that are at once accurate, economical, and satisfactory.

The diagrams and letterpress have been prepared in the best possible style, with painstaking attention alike to clearness and elegance. Every line has been drawn with precision, every explanation worded with the utmost care, in order that the student may proceed with confidence and the experienced hand may find his practice enriched. No effort has been spared to make this Work worthy of its title, viz., a Guide to Shirt Cutting; not merely a compilation of rules, but a practical manual, replete with hints and suggestions which will be of permanent value alike to the learner and the proficient.

We trust, therefore, that the Work will commend itself to the trade generally, and that it may prove not only a source of immediate assistance, but also a lasting contribution to the advancement of our craft.

THE PUBLISHERS.

THE CUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE TO CUTTING SHIRTS and OTHER UNDERGARMENTS.

The shirt is probably the oldest style of garment worn by civilized men, for in one form or another we find it in the earliest styles of dress of which we have any authentic or detailed account.

The Babylonians, the Egyptians, the Greeks, and the Romans all had their tunics or shirts, so that in some form the history of this garment may be traced through the ages of antiquity, until we have totalled up 5,000 or 6,000 years.

It is not merely an ancient garment, it is a universal one, for whilst fashions may come and go as regards outer clothing, and their styles may be adapted to climatic conditions of different countries, yet the shirt, as the garment that is worn next to the skin, is worn by the inhabitants of all lands, and of all social positions. Many of the

CLASSICAL REFERENCES

To garments, and which translators have rendered coat, ought really to have been rendered shirt; but owing to a false sense of propriety, they have preferred to call the garment a coat rather than a shirt. Take, for instance, the Coat of Nessus, which was sent as a present to Hercules after he had killed Nessus. Hercules wore this next to his skin, and it poisoned him, adhering firmly to his skin, so that he died in fearful agony.

The so-called Holy Coat of Treves is really a long, loose-fitting kind of shirt, and is like a modern night shirt, cut low at the neck, and with loose sleeves.

ABUSED AND RIDICULED

Like many other ancient institutions, the shirt has come in for its fair share of abuse, for although the modern man has only been able to modify and adapt the style of shirt worn by his ancestors, yet he has not hesitated to use the shaft of ridicule against it. For instance, the poet has told us in his own beautiful way of the King's search for happiness, and which his philosopher told him could only be obtained by wearing the shirt of a happy and contented man. The King travelled far and wide, and midst the rich be found not one man happy. He sought midst the humble and the lowly, and, after many failures, he at last found a man who appeared to be, and who professed to be, thoroughly happy and contented.

The King then sought to buy his shirt, but, alas! he had none. Hence, the suggestion naturally arises that the wearing of shirts is not consistent with happiness; and we fear they have been the cause of many men using the most emphatic adjectives when the buttons have been missing, or the fit has been uncomfortable. To return to the philosopher's view for a moment, it is not difficult to see the lesson he tried to teach. The thing was that the happy man was he who limited his wants to the barest necessities, and he evidently considered that the shirt was one of the last luxuries a man would consent to do without.

TO "FIT LIKE A SHIRT"

Has become a proverb for garments that touch nowhere, and doubtless many of the shirts made by seamstresses who go out to work by the day, or the women who attend mothers' meetings, or the grannies who occupy their time in plain needlework with occasional attempts at shirt-making, are of that description, and are often of the most shapeless and comfortless description.

The books that have been published on shirt cutting and making have been very few and very meagre in their treatment of the subject, so that, whilst there are many able shirt cutters in London and ome of the larger Provincial cities, yet, outside of that charmed circle it has not been easy to find able men, and that for the simple reason that accurate scientific instruction was not to be obtained.

In the present work, we shall endeavour to supply a sound system for cutting shirts of all kinds, as well as garments of a kindred character, such as would generally be classed as underclothing.

As regards the art of making these garments, we shall supply such hints as will enable our readers to grasp the leading features of high-class garments, and we sincerely hope that when those who study this work put those instructions given into practice, they will show that consideration for the workers, as will ensure them being able to earn a living wage.

MEASURING

Before starting to measure, it is very necessary that accurate particulars should be taken of the garment required, for it is only in this way the wants of the customers can be realized, or the cutter get a proper idea of what he has to measure for.

The, measures must necessarily embrace (1) the lengths, (2) the widths.

The first measure to take is the length from the nape of the neck to the waist, as shown on Fig. 1.

The second measure is the full length, and it will be safe to make it a rule never to make this less than twice the length of waist; of course, customers' wishes should be studied, but for a figure 5 ft. 8 in., the length of the shirt should not be less than 34, a good medium length would be 36. This measure is illustrated on Fig. 2.

The third measure to take is the width of the shoulder, and this is illustrated on Fig. 3, and should be taken from the neck in a line with the ear, across to the shoulder, and decides the width of shoulder given to the shirt. This is a better measure than the width of back, as most shirts are made up with surplus width in the back.

Plate 1.