The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 2 E-Book

W. D. F. Vincent

• Herausgeber: BoD - Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 181

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

"The Cutter's Practical Guide" being the present acknowledged Standard System of Cutting at the Tailor and Cutter Office and the System taught to the Students at our Academy, it has, in a variety of forms and adaptations, been laid before the members of the tailoring trade. The cordial reception it has met has induced us to develop both the System and its applications, and prepare these for publication in more permanent form. Part One has already appeared, in which the System is adapted more particularly to Youths' and Juvenile Garments. A promise was then made that Part Two, embracing every Style and Class of Gents' Body Coats, would ultimately be published. The present work will be valued, not only for its application to ordinary coats, but by many more because it embraces many garments which in most trades are regarded special and unusual. Among these we may reckon Military, Naval, and Livery garments, with other classes of official and non-official dress, which the head of every respectable firm is liable to be called upon to make. The work throughout will be found thoroughly practical in its mode of representing and dealing with the various styles and classes of garments. Everything superfluous is studiously avoided. The work is prepared for practical Cutters and for everyday use, which will be greatly facilitated by the large clear type and equally clear engraving of the Plates. We feel confidence in placing it in the hands of our many patrons.

Leseprobe

"W.D.F. Vincent was born in Junie 1860 and began his career as an apprentice with Frederick Cooper in Yeovil. After completing his training, he briefly established his own businesses in Oxford and later in Maidenhead as a clothier and tailor, though neither venture was financially successful.

While in Maidenhead, Vincent won an essay competition on tailoring, which was open to all members of the National Federation of Foremen Tailors, titled "The Great National Work on Trouser Cutting, or Defects in Trousers." He submitted his entry under the pseudonym "Oxonian" and won the first prize. This success led him to secure a position with The Tailor and Cutter magazine. In the early years, Vincent contributed numerous articles on tailoring methods and techniques to the magazine. However, due to the terms of his employment, these articles were published without attribution to him.

By the 1890s, Vincent became a leading tailoring authority. His books, such as The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making of All Kinds of Trousers, became standard reference work. By 1917, Vincent referred to himself as a journalist. He died in June 1926.

The Tailor and Cutter magazine and academy were operated by John Williamson & Co Ltd. In the 1950s and 1960s, many tailors displayed their Tailor & Cutter Academy Diplomas, signed by W.D.F. Vincent, as the Chairman of Examiners, as a centerpiece in their shop windows. One such example can still be seen on display at the Museum of Welsh Life at St. Fagans in South Wales."

(cf. https://vincents.org.uk/family-history/w-d-f-vincent-tailor; 15.12.2024)

This edition is a reprint of the legendary Cutter's Practical Guide series; the first book was published in 1890. Although W. D. F. Vincent wrote many books on tailoring, these are the most popular. The entire text has been meticulously read, and the images have been carefully cleaned and edited to ensure the highest quality.

Part 1 – Juvenile Garments

Part 2 – Body Coats

Part 3 – Trousers, Breeches & Knickers

Part 4 – Livery Garments in all their varieties

Part 5 – Overcoats

Part 6 – Ladies' Garments

Part 7 – Defects, Remedies, Trying on & The Art of Fitting

Part 8 – Economical Cutting

Part 9 – Lounges, Reefers, Norfolk, Sporting & Patrol Jackets

Part 10 – Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, etc.

Part 11 – Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, etc.

Part 12 – Clerical Dress

Part 13 – British Military Uniforms

Content

The Principals of Coat Cutting

The Height of Neck

The Position and Size of Scye

The Balance

The Waist Suppression

The Spring over the Hips and Seat

Allowance for Making, Ease

The Location of the Neck Point

Measuring

First Operation

Second Operation

Third Operation

Forth Operation

Fifth Operation

Sixth Operation, Skirts

The Morning Coat Skirt

The Dress Coat Skirt

The Skirt for Naval Uniforms

The Coatee Skirt

The Gamekeeper's Skirt

The Frock Skirt

The Military Tunic Skirt

The Livery Great Coat

The Black Skirts

Seventh Operation Sleeves

The Sleeve System

Deviations for Abnormalities

Stooping

Erect

Corpulency

Slender Waist

Long Neck, Sloping Shoulders

Short Neck, Spuare Shoulders

Forward Shoulders

Backward Shoulders

Prominent Blades

Flat Blades

Backwards

Very Flat at Waist

Short Waist

Long Waist

To Produce Ease at the Scye

Lapels

Dress Coat Lapel

Livery Coat Lapel

Roll Collar Dress Coat

Top Frokc Coat Lapel

Livery Overcoat Lapel

Naval Full Dress Uniform Lapel

Collars

Ordinary Overcoat Collar

Overcoat Cape Collar

Dresscoat Collar

Sailor Collar

Stand Collar

Prussian Collar

Collar Lining

Collar Canvas

Morning Coats

The System

D.B. Morning Coat

D.B. Frock Coat

Dress Coats

Clerical Frock Coat

Clerical Dress Coat

Coachman's Livery Frock

Coachman's Frock Coat

Footman's Coatee

Page's Jacket

Livery Overcoat

Military Tunic

Mess Jacket

Highland Doublet

Full Dress Coat

Midshipman's Full Dress

Midshipman's Jacket

Workingman's Coat

Police Tuic

Eton Jacket

Eton Vest

Morning Coat for Corpulent Figure

Frock Coat for Corpulent Figure

PREVIOUSLY PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

https://www.becomeatailor.com

PUBLISHER'S PREFACE

"The Cutters' Practical Guide" being the present acknowledged Standard System of Cutting at the Tailor and Cutter Office and the System taught to the Students at our Academy, it has, in a variety of forms and adaptations, been laid before the members of the tailoring trade. The cordial reception it has met has induced us to develop both the System and its applications, and prepare these for publication in more permanent form. Part One has already appeared, in which the System is adapted more particularly to Youths' and Juvenile Garments. A promise was then made that Part Two, embracing every Style and Class of Gents' Body Coats, would ultimately be published. Considerable delay has taken place in its preparation, and oft-repeated have been the enquiries as to when it should appear. But several other works have been published by us since Part One of this work appeared, one of these being "The Practical Guide adapted to all the Current Styles of Ladies' Tailor-made Garments".

The present work will be valued, not only for its application to ordinary coats, but by many more because it embraces many garments which in most trades are regarded special and unusual. Among these we may reckon Military, Naval, and Livery garments, with other classes of official and non-official dress, which the head of every respectable firm is liable to be called upon to make.

The work throughout will be found thoroughly practical in its mode of representing and dealing with the various styles and classes of garments. Everything superfluous is studiously avoided. The work is prepared for practical Cutters and for everyday use, which will be greatly facilitated by the large clear type and equally clear engraving of the Plates. We feel confidence in placing it in the hands of our many patrons.

THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY, LIMITED.

THE

Cutter's Practical Guide

TO

CUTTING AND MAKING

EVERY KIND OF GARMENT

BODY COATS

It is nearly four years since the first article appeared in the pages of the Tailor and Cutter under the above title, and from a very large number of readers of that journal we have had many expressions of opinion as to their value, and asking such questions as "Can I have them all in one book?" In response to these requests we have prepared the present volume. It is based on the articles that have appeared in the pages of the Tailor and Cutter, with such additions as the author thinks would increase its practical value, whilst many subjects which have not yet been treated of in the serial articles, have been added so as to make the work complete.

This is a practical work for practical men and is the outcome of successful experience. The author endeavours to lay out all those little details of cutting and making before his fellow craftsmen which have really more to do with success than a vast theoretical knowledge of scientific cutting. Science has done much for the cutter, but we do not desire to study science for the sake of science. What is wanted, is science that shall help us in our every day practice, help us to fit our customers, and so help us towards success.

The subject matter of this work, is body coats in their many varieties, from a Coster's Coat to a Peer's Frock, embracing Military, Naval, Livery, Clerical and Police Garments, and as the necessary explanation of these will produce a good size volume, we will not take up space by a long introduction, but at once proceed to the work before us.

It is of the utmost importance that every cutter should be fully aware of the component parts of a coat, in order that he may be able to so vary the cut as to suit the various peculiarities of the customer he is called upon to clothe, and also to produce certain effects to meet their whims and fancies. By component parts we do not mean back, forepart, sleeve, collar, &c., but rather those quantities or sections which go to make up the various parts, and which must all be arranged in accordance with the requirements of the customer. Perhaps our readers will better understand the meaning we wish to convey, if we style them

The Principles of Coat Cutting.

It matters not what plan we adopt, whether it be breast measure, shoulder measure, direct measure, or block patterns, so long as these principles are understood, and the various quantities in each section properly regulated. We therefore begin this work by dealing with these component parts, sections, or principles, which we lay down as follows: 1st. Height of neck. 2nd. Position and size of scye. 3rd. Balance. 4th. Waist suppression. 5th. Spring over the hips. 6th. Allowance for making, ease, &c. 7th. The location of the neck point. There are several important principles involved in the sleeves, collars, &c., but the above will be quite sufficient in considering the body part. We will now proceed to deal with each of these sections, in order, as far as possible to lay a good foundation for succeeding articles.

The Height of Neck.

Many and ingenious have been the devices and arrangements for obtaining the height of neck or shoulder slope, all of which have more or less failed, with the exception of direct measures, inasmuch as this section of the body has been found to vary independently of any other; and it will at once be obvious that all those who obtain the amount of shoulder slope by a division of the breast, total height, or natural waist length, are all more or less in error, although it is only just to admit that the latter method is in the right direction, and calculated to produce results nearer the mark than any other divisional method; and had we no opportunity of obtaining the few additional measures we desire, we should not have any hesitation in fixing the height of neck by one-sixth of the natural waist, as it will be found in a very large number of cases to come very near the mark, producing squarer shoulders for a short and stout figure, and the reverse for the tall and thin. But as we said before, this method is not to be absolutely relied upon, as in practice, we find tall figures with square shoulders, and short ones with sloping ones, and so on. Others again have taken the height of neck by measuring upwards from the level of shoulders, a plan which is certainly in advance of the last method, as it deals with this section independently of any other. Still this has been found lacking in meeting the requirements of a class of figures which are abnormally developed in the front shoulder. Hence, after examining all the various plans put before the trade, we have finally selected the over-shoulder measure as the one best calculated to meet the case, when taken in conjunction with the depth of scye on back, and the front shoulder. It is by no means a new method, being published in a work nearly seventy years ago, and as we believe it is of real practical value, we have embodied it in the system we shall lay down. Some have argued against this method, that in taking it over the coat, mistakes may often arise through the shoulders being built up with wadding and padding; but this is a difficulty to be overcome with every method, even those which mainly rely upon the aid of judgment in the use of a breast measure system. It may be truly said, that most people come to be measured in the garment they like best, and all that is necessary to meet the case is to treat the coat in the same way as the one they are wearing has been treated. But we shall point out as we proceed, that the fitting of the body is not everthing, the pleasing the customer's eye and producing a becoming garment being of even greater importance. It is easy, of course, to overcome even this padding difficulty by politely asking the customer to allow you to take his measures under the coat, a plan which we think must be followed by many firms. During our experience we have had many gentlemen proceed at once to take off their coats, and on one occasion a lady enquired if we required to measure under the bodice. Still, the number of garments with built-up shoulders form a very small minority; and whilst using every care to spot them when measuring, yet we may safely leave them to the try-on. The next section in order is

The Position and Size of Scye.

This, as everyone knows, is a very important section, for if it is not located properly, or not of the correct size, much discomfort may be felt by the wearer, and the garment certain to be returned for alteration. The methods mostly in vogue for this, are to fix its depth either by taking one-third of the scye, and adding it to one-sixth of the natural waist for the shoulder slope, or one-fourth of a scale found by taking 36 as the normal, and increasing ¼ inch for every inch below, and decreasing ¼ inch for every inch above. The depth of scye for a 24 breast would thus be 6¾, and that for a 48 11¼ both plans producing fairly satisfactory results for the ordinary-going figure, but failing to produce those variations in the balance necessary in dealing with abnormal figures which is best obtained by direct measure. So much for the perpendicular position; let us now look at the horizontal, and consider whether it is better to fix the position of the front of scye by the back or front of the garment. Though we acknowledge the back to be the fixed part of the garment, we still give decided preference to those plans which fix it from the front, inasmuch as the width across the chest can be most easily and accurately determined, and is not affected by any variations in the allowance for ease, making up, and so on; and although the method of fixing the front of scye at two-thirds the scale may, and undoubtedly does, produce garments remarkably near the mark, yet it is not so simple and reliable as the other plan. This also applies to measures taken from the back to the front of scye, which, passing over so many seams, wadding, &c., is quite likely to mislead us. Hence our preference for the plan of locating the front of scye by measuring across from the back to the front, half the chest measure and that allowance for making, ease, &c., our judgment dictates, and then measuring back from the front the across chest measure. In this way allowance is given for ease and making where it is needed, as nearly all the seams in a coat are between back and front of scye, and the ease is also located in the scye section, a plan which will meet the approval of the majority of our customers.

The Balance

Comes next, and is undoubtedly one of the most important principles connected with coat cutting. It is one on which a lengthy treatise of itself might be written, but we must refrain from doing more than examining so much of it as is necessary for the purpose of this work. Balance consists of the relative lengths of front and back, a good, evenly-balanced coat being generally considered as one with the front the same distance from the level of the bottom of scye upwards, as the back is from level of scye, and the width of back neck fixed at one-sixth. This may be counteracted by the lower part of the body of coat, for if the suppressions of the waist at the side are made in excess of the requirements of the figure, they have a very similar effect to that produced by shortening the shoulder. But assuming that the waist suppressions are in accordance with the requirements of the figure, then balance resolves itself into the relative length of back and front shoulder from the level of scye upwards.

As no garment can be said to fit well which is not well balanced, it behooves us to give this matter the most careful consideration. The coat with the long front shoulder will hang away behind, as if it had no connection with the person wearing it; whilst the one with a too short front shoulder will be all alive in the back, and cling to the waist with the utmost pertinacity. There is no doubt that the plan of finding the balance by measuring from the nape to a point two-fifths of the waist measure from centre of back on natural waistline, and then taking a measure from the nape of neck on a straight line, and again over the shoulder, is a thoroughly good one. It is not so easy in its application, as by taking the depth of scye, and length of front shoulder, which can both be applied in a most simple and expeditious manner. Hence our preference for dealing with the balance from the bottom of scye upwards.

The Waist Suppression.

This is a somewhat difficult point. We have never yet seen a satisfactory plan of obtaining the correct quantity of waist suppression in such a simple and practical method as to commend itself to the mind of the cutter in daily practice. In dealing with suppressions at any part, it is always necessary to remember that to suppress at one part means to produce ful-ness at another. The principles on which the waist suppression must be based, is to provide a receptacle for the prominences of the body. In making the suppression between back and sidebody, the chief aim is to provide a sufficient receptacle for the blades to allow of the coat going naturally into the hollow of the waist. If this is not done sufficiently, there is a fulness produced directly above and below the blades, causing the coat to stand away at the waist, and to be full at the top of sideseam. The reverse would be the case if the suppressions were too much, and a fulness over the blades be produced. This, then, is the principle of waist suppression, and as long as it is done with due regard to the proportion of the figure, it will have no effect on any other part; but as soon as it is done in excessive or insufficient quantities, then it produces results on the lower part of the coat, the same as variation in the balance or length of the shoulder. Our plan, then, for body coats, may be gathered from the various diagrams in this work, and consists in taking out 1 inch between the line by which all the lines are squared across, to back seam at waist. This has the effect of lengthening the back balance and making the coat to fit close to the waist behind; then about 1½ inches between back and sidebody, varying according to the flatness or prominence of the blades, and about 1 inch between side-body and forepart at waist under arm, for a proportionate figure (say 4 inches smaller at waist than chest). We have given all these quantities "about"; as fixing these by judgment, is decidedly the best plan. It is highly necessary they should be varied, to meet the requirements of different customers; and we trust our readers will be able to form such judgment for themselves, after perusing the general plan or principles upon which it is based. The next point for consideration is

The Spring over the Hips and Seat.

Much that has been said in dealing with the waist suppression applies with equal force to this. Our plan to get the run over the seat, is to square down from the fashion-waist 9 inches, to spring out from 1 to 1½ inches more or less, as the seat is more or less prominent, and to hollow out the waist between skirt and forepart and sidebody, so that a ¼ inch only of daylight or space shows between them for a close-fitting skirt. This must be carefully noted, as if this space is increased, so must also the spring over the seat, by at least double the quantity, when the extra width put into the skirt by this means will form a fold of drapery at the sides. If this last point is especially noted, many of the existing troubles in connection with skirts will disappear. The amount of fulness over the hips is generally fixed at about 1 inch, but it should always be borne in mind that figures which are thin at waist and prominent in the hips require more, and the reverse for stout waists. If pockets are to be placed at side, a still greater quantity is necessary. These, we believe, are the principal features to be noted in connection with this section, in order to produce satisfactory results. We are treating of the systems for skirts in another page.

Allowance for Making, Ease, &c.,