The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 5 E-Book

W. D. F. Vincent

• Herausgeber: BoD - Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 151

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

We now introduce another instalment of our work - "The Cutters' Practical Guide," in which we endeavour to embody the result of experience, observation and careful study. Our emanations in this Series of works may not be perfect - we do not claim they are, but we have the satisfaction of knowing that they are - all of them - beneficial to very many Cutters, who bear willing testimony to the benefits they derive from their use. We trust this work on Overgarments for all sorts and classes of men may be found equally helpful to those who are treading the same path we have trod. We are earnestly desirous of helping such, by placing in their hands materials which will better fit them for the discharge of the duties devolving upon them in their different spheres. Thus we shall help in some measure to raise the status of our trade. Recent developments in the Art and Science of Cutting have rendered it possible to produce garments correct in fit and excellent in style. This Art has, however, yet to be acquired, and it is our ambition to contribute by this Series of works, a medium by which this noblest of all Arts can be acquired. We trust as we doubt not, that the same success will attend this latest Part, as continues to attend the previous ones.

Leseprobe

OVERCOATS

IN ALL THEIR VARIED STYLES,

AND FOR ALL CLASSES

AND CONDTIONS OF MEN:

CIVILIAN CLERICAL

MILITARY & NAVAL LIVERY. &C.

BEING

Part Five,

OF

THE CUTTERS’ PRACTICAL GUIDE

TO THE CUTTING ALL KINDS OF GARMENTS.

BY W. D. F. VINCENT.

Author of “ The Federation First Prize Essay on Trouser Cutting,” &c., &c.

LONDON:

PRINTED AND PUBLISHED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED. 93 & 91 DRURY LANE, W.C.

"W.D.F. Vincent was born in Junie 1860 and began his career as an apprentice with Frederick Cooper in Yeovil. After completing his training, he briefly established his own businesses in Oxford and later in Maidenhead as a clothier and tailor, though neither venture was financially successful.

While in Maidenhead, Vincent won an essay competition on tailoring, which was open to all members of the National Federation of Foremen Tailors, titled "The Great National Work on Trouser Cutting, or Defects in Trousers." He submitted his entry under the pseudonym "Oxonian" and won the first prize. This success led him to secure a position with The Tailor and Cutter magazine. In the early years, Vincent contributed numerous articles on tailoring methods and techniques to the magazine. However, due to the terms of his employment, these articles were published without attribution to him.

By the 1890s, Vincent became a leading tailoring authority. His books, such as The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making of All Kinds of Trousers, became standard reference work. By 1917, Vincent referred to himself as a journalist. He died in June 1926.

The Tailor and Cutter magazine and academy were operated by John Williamson & Co Ltd. In the 1950s and 1960s, many tailors displayed their Tailor & Cutter Academy Diplomas, signed by W.D.F. Vincent, as the Chairman of Examiners, as a centerpiece in their shop windows. One such example can still be seen on display at the Museum of Welsh Life at St. Fagans in South Wales."

(cf. https://vincents.org.uk/family-history/w-d-f-vincent-tailor; 15.12.2024)

This edition is a reprint of the legendary Cutter's Practical Guide series; the first book was published in 1890. Although W. D. F. Vincent wrote many books on tailoring, these are the most popular. The entire text has been meticulously read, and the images have been carefully cleaned and edited to ensure the highest quality.

Part 1 – Juvenile Garments

Part 2 – Body Coats

Part 3 – Trousers, Breeches & Knickers

Part 4 – Livery Garments in all their varieties

Part5 – Overcoats

Part 6 – Ladies' Garments

Part 7 – Defects, Remedies, Trying on

Part 8 – Economical Cutting

Part 9 – Lounges, Reefers, Norfolk, Sporting & Patrol Jackets

Part 10 – Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, etc.

Part 11 – Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, etc.

Part 12 – Clerical Dress

Part 13 – British Military Uniforms

Content

Introduction

Measuring for Overcoats

The Order of Measuring

Requirements for Overcoats

The System

The Sleeve

The Trimming

Manipulating the Seams

Working up the Fronts

Putting in the Pockets

The Collar

Sewing the Sleeves

Making up the Fly

The Back Tack

Fly Front Chesterfield

The Materials

The Position of Pockets

Practical Details

D.B. Chesterfiels

Whole Back Chester

Double Breasted

Features on Style

Gent's Covert Coat

Special Features

Hints on Making

Practical Details

Waterproofing

Chesterfield for Corpulent Figure

Disproportion on the Waist

Variations in Cutting

The Albert D.B. Frock Overcoat

The System

The Skirt

The Lapel

The Paddock Coat

The Cutting

The Material

Details of Making

General Remarks

The Paletot

The Cutting

Practical Details

Gent's Ulster

General Features

The Sleeve

The Hood

The Collar

Capes, Hoods &c.

The Scarboro' Sleeveless

Ulster and Cape

The Cape

The Coaching Overcoat or D.B. Sac

The Buttons

The Cutting

The Collar

The New Style of Inverness

The Leading Features

The System

The Forepart

The Wing

Hints on Making

Inverness with Sleeve

The Old Style of Inverness

Practical Method of Cutting an Inverness

The Forepart

The Wing

Fur Lined Overcoat

The Cutting

Fur Linings

Military Overcoats

The Official Regulations

Great-Coats and Capes

Staff Officers Overcoats

Great-Coats and Capes

Cavalery and Artillery Cloaks

Cloak and Cape

Naval Great-Coat

The Cutting

Livery Overcoats

Practical Details

The Pockets

The Cutting

Junvenile Overgarments

The Kilt Overcoat

The Austrian

Youths Overcoats

Economical Lays

Cape Ulster

Average Quantities

Overcoat Novelties

The Four-in-Hand

Chesterfield from Lounge Pattern

Model Pattern of Lounge

The Clerical Cassock

The Old Style

The Cutting

In Conclution

AUTHOR'S PREFACE

We now introduce another instalment of our work — "The Cutters' Practical Guide", in which we are endeavouring to embody the result of experience, observation and careful study. Our emanations in this Series of works may not be perfect — we do not claim they are, but we have the satisfaction of knowing that they are — all of them — very helpful to very many Cutters, who bear willing testimony to the benefits they are deriving from their use.

We trust this work on Overgarments for all sorts and classes of men may be found equally useful to those who are treading the same pathway we have trod. We are earnestly desirous of helping such, by placing in their hands materials which will better fit them for the discharge of the duties devolving upon them in their different spheres. Thus we shall help in some measure to raise the status of our trade. Recent developments in the Art and Science of Cutting have rendered it possible to produce garments correct in fit and excellent in style.

This Art has, however to be acquired, and it is our ambition to contribute by this series of works, a medium by which this noblest of all Arts can be acquired. We trust as we doubt not, that the same success will attend this latest Part, as continues to attend the previous ones.

W. D. F. VINCENT.

PUBLISHER'S PREFACE

In previous Works issued from this office, Overcoats have been fully dealt with. But that was a number of years ago, and not only do fashions change, but systems and methods of production develop and improve. New ideas as to what constitutes good style, together with new and improved Systems of Cutting, are introduced as time proceeds. This being so, but a few years are necessary in order that most of such works may be termed old and out of date. This idea, we think, applies to the works on Overcoats we have previously published; hence this New Work which we have now the pleasure of introducing to the trade.

All the latest styles up to date, including the "Albert", which has been mostly confined to the Masher, or fashionable young gent, now promises to become a popular Overgarment. Every conceivable Overcoat, not for Civilians only, but Clerical, Naval, Military, Livery, &c., will be found set forth in these pages, in the form of beautifully illustrated Plates, each Plate showing all the details of the garment. This feature will be found a great acquisition by the Cutter. Our aim has been to produce a work thorough and complete, our patrons will judge how far we have succeeded. As a Cutting Guide and Instructor in everything pertaining to Overgarments, little remains, we think, that could be further desired. We have pleasure therefore in introducing this work to the many which have been issued from this office, and appreciated by Cutters throughout the world.

THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED,

JOHN WILLIAMSON, General Manager.

"THE TAILOR AND CUTTER" Office,

93 & 94 Drury Lane, London, W.C..

PREVIOUSLY PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

https://www.becomeatailor.com

THE

CUTTER'S PRACTICAL GUIDE

TO THE

CUTTING AND MAKING ALL KINGS OF

OVERGARMENTS.

INTRODUCTION.

Amongst the many classes of garments to be found in Tailoring, Overcoats take a prominent place; for every trade, be it great or small, city or provincial, find at certain periods of the year fully one half of their trade in these garments. It is one of the most changeable branches of the gentlemen's trade, for we find greater revolutions in the style of over garments than in all other garments put together. Probably the fact that it is a special garment for a special season has something to do with that, and when gentlemen put their Overcoats away for the summer, they forget to make provision against moth, and so when they visit their wardrobe some chilly autumn evening, they find their Overcoat eaten in holes, and so a new coat for the next season has become inevitable. Or, it may be, one of the new styles takes his fancy, and as Overcoats are garments that require a little special adaptation to the times and seasons they are to be worn, it often happens that orders arrive in this way. The Overcoat that is suitable for walking, is quite a different garment to one intended for travelling or driving purposes. We also find those firms who cater for special classes of customers, introduce novelties specially adapted to the requirements of their clients. As an instance, those firms whose trade lies chiefly amongst the medical profession, bring out a loose fitting D.B. Ulster with plenty of pockets, so that instruments and pocket cases can be easily carried about without inconvenience.

In the following pages we purpose treating of all the varieties as worn at the present time by gentlemen, giving such illustrations of novelties and specialities as will make the work valuable for reference in this go-ahead age. The practical details given are either the outcome of our own experience at the cutting board, or have been collected from the most reliable sources; whilst such specialities as the Military and Naval, are drawn from the sealed patterns deposited at the War and Admiralty Offices, as the standard styles of officers’ Overcoats. We purpose dealing with these perhaps a little more fully than the demand for them may warrant, for the reason that there are many ideas to be found in these of an exceedingly practical and useful nature, for in their design practical utility has been more studied than appearance, and we doubt not but our readers will find them a great assistance in designing special garments of the Overcoat class.

We shall treat of the various styles of cutting Overcoats subsequently, and we will at once begin the practical part of our work by a description of

Measuring for Overcoats.

Here at the outset we find a difference of opinion existing among cutters. Ought the measures to be taken over the coat or over the vest? is a question often asked, and as there is something to be said on both sides, we will consider their respective claims briefly. It is quite true that being an over garment it should be cut in accordance with the size of the body and the garments it is worn over. It seems also a very common sense method to take the measures outside all that is to be worn under it; but if we do this it will only apply to the chest and waist, for unless we take the direct measures outside an Overcoat they will not be satisfactory, hence we prefer to take the measures quite in the ordinary way — the chest and waist measures over vest, and the direct measures over the ordinary coat. Our reasons for doing so are: 1st, The Overcoat is a garment desired to wear outside any under garment the customer may be wearing. 2nd, The measures so taken can be readily used for ordinary jackets or coats, should the customer favour you with an order for these. Still, it resolves itself practically into a matter of individual fancy as how the measures are taken. The general difference between a measure taken over the coat and one over the vest is two inches, so that whichever way they are taken, the cutter may with safety add that quantity or deduct it, if he wishes to vary the style in which the measure has been taken.

Those of our readers who have the former parts of this work will know we hold a very decided opinion on

The Advantages of Direct Measures.

The more we practice, the more this is confirmed, for by their aid the cutter is enabled to grasp the more important features of fit required in any garment for that particular customer. For example, the front shoulder and the depth of scye determine the balance required, so that, be the customer stooping or erect, these measures, if accurately taken, will give the relative length of back and front required. These two measures taken in conjunction with the over shoulder measure, decide the slope of the shoulder, so that, be the customer sloping-shouldered or shortnecked, be he small in the shoulders or large, these measures will provide for all his peculiarities, and then if the across chest measures be taken to locate the front of the scye, the more important features of the pattern will be provided for in a way most suited to the requirements of that particular customer. It is sometimes argued that these measures are difficult to take, but we have not found them so, for with a very little practice and care we soon find the student is quite capable of taking them satisfactorily. The taking of measures is an operation that always requires care and attention, and the more careful the cutter is in this respect, the more successful he must be, for he must remember he has not only to fit the body, but also the head, and when he is taking the measures is an excellent opportunity of finding out his customer's wishes as to ease or closeness of fit, as well as many other details.

The Order of Measuring

Is as follows: First take the chest and waist, then the depth of scye from nape of neck, continue on to natural waist and full length; next the width of back with arm resting at side; then raise the arm at right angles to body, bring it forward, bend elbow, and continue the measure from centre of back to elbow and cuff, always considering your customer's taste on this matter. The across chest measure comes next, taken fairly easy from front of scye to front of scye; then follows the front shoulder, from nape of neck to bottom of scye in front, taken fairly close; and lastly, the over shoulder, taken from the depth of scye on the centre seam of back, over the shoulder to bottom of scye in front. Those for the 36 chest would probably read as follows: 36 chest, 32 waist, 9 depth of scye, 17 natural waist, 40 full length, 6¾ across back, 19 elbow, 32 full sleeve length, 8 across chest, 12½ front shoulder and 17 over shoulder.

Our reasons for taking the chest and waist measure first are that it gives you a clue as to what the other measures should be, so that when you find they vary from the normal, you may observe the reason for that variation. For example the depth of scye may be greater than proportionate, and you at once ask yourself: Is this customer stooping or long necked, and so your eyes get opened to defects that might otherwise pass unnoticed. We sometimes find cutters loud in their praises of

The Advantages of the Breast Measure System.

There is no doubt, under certain circumstances, it is the only method practicable. We here give the proportions these sectional measures bear in the normal figure to the breast measure. For the 36 breast it will be found that the depth of scye equals one fourth; the across chest at one inch less than a fourth; the front shoulder at one third plus half an inch, and the over shoulder at one inch less than a half. These divisions will enable the reader who prefers to work by the breast measure in lieu of the direct measures taken on each customer, to do so; but the developments of growth are such as to render these slightly erroneous in the large and very small sizes; as it is found the former are small in the shoulders and the latter are large as compared with these divisions of the breast, so that only one of the above four rules stand good in all cases, and that is the across chest, equally one inch less than a fourth, this only, varying for backward and forward shoulders, stooping and erect figures, &c. It will be fully understood these abnormalities always require special treatment when working by the breast measure system.

The following rule we have found to answer well for large and small sizes: For every inch above 36 deduct ¼ inch, and for every inch below, take of ⅛ inch; thus, for the 40, take off four quarters equalling one inch, making it 39; the fourth of this for the depth of scye would make it 9¾, the front shoulder at 1⅓/3 plus ½ equals 13½ and the over shoulder at one inch less than half is 18½, and so on for the various sizes. Thus it will be seen, that whilst in the following pages we shall refer to these various quantities by their name, as the depth of scye, &c., the system can be worked either as a breast measure or direct measure method, the only variation being in the manner of fixing the amount of these.

The Requirements of an Overcoat