The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 9 E-Book

W. D. F. Vincent

• Herausgeber: BoD - Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 180

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

This work is devoted to the cutting of all kinds of Lounge Jackets by the Cutter's Practical Guide System, and contains the result of much research, experiment and experience. The simplicity and reliability of the C.P.G. System are admitted on all hands, and are being practised in thousands of cutting rooms with success, so that we have every confidence that it will prove equally successful in the hands of those who purchase this volume. Lounges have undergone considerable changes during the last few years, and the diagrams in this work are thoroughly up-to-date; but whilst they portray the latest styles, they give equal attention to the ordinary patterns, and those special styles which only meet with an occasional demand, so that the whole subject of Lounges is treated in a comprehensive manner. We also note that every phase of disproportion has been fully described, so that we have every confidence that this work will prove a worthy successor to the many C.P.G. parts that have been published by us, and which have proved so helpful to the trade. The method of treating the various styles has been concise and to the point, allowing the description of the system to appear on the same page as the diagram. We have omitted illustrations of style in nearly every case from the pages, inasmuch as they would interfere with the above plan; but we have supplemented the work by a series of fashion figures, which will serve as a useful guide to stylers for all garments of the Lounge class.

Leseprobe

"W.D.F. Vincent was born in Junie 1860 and began his career as an apprentice with Frederick Cooper in Yeovil. After completing his training, he briefly established his own businesses in Oxford and later in Maidenhead as a clothier and tailor, though neither venture was financially successful.

While in Maidenhead, Vincent won an essay competition on tailoring, which was open to all members of the National Federation of Foremen Tailors, titled "The Great National Work on Trouser Cutting, or Defects in Trousers." He submitted his entry under the pseudonym "Oxonian" and won the first prize. This success led him to secure a position with The Tailor and Cutter magazine. In the early years, Vincent contributed numerous articles on tailoring methods and techniques to the magazine. However, due to the terms of his employment, these articles were published without attribution to him.

By the 1890s, Vincent became a leading tailoring authority. His books, such as The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making of All Kinds of Trousers, became standard reference work. By 1917, Vincent referred to himself as a journalist. He died in June 1926.

The Tailor and Cutter magazine and academy were operated by John Williamson & Co Ltd. In the 1950s and 1960s, many tailors displayed their Tailor & Cutter Academy Diplomas, signed by W.D.F. Vincent, as the Chairman of Examiners, as a centerpiece in their shop windows. One such example can still be seen on display at the Museum of Welsh Life at St. Fagans in South Wales."

(cf. https://vincents.org.uk/family-history/w-d-f-vincent-tailor; 15.12.2024)

This edition is a reprint of the legendary Cutter's Practical Guide series; the first book was published in 1890. Although W. D. F. Vincent wrote many books on tailoring, these are the most popular. The entire text has been meticulously read, and the images have been carefully cleaned and edited to ensure the highest quality.

Part 1 – Juvenile Garments

Part 2 – Body Coats

Part 3 – Trousers, Breeches & Knickers

Part 4 – Livery Garments in all their varieties

Part 5 – Overcoats

Part 6 – Ladies' Garments

Part 7 – Defects, Remedies, Trying on

Part 8 – Economical Cutting

Part 9 – Lounges, Reefers, Norfolk, Sporting & Patrol Jackets

Part 10 – Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, etc.

Part 11 – Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, etc.

Part 12 – Clerical Dress

Part 13 – British Military Uniforms

Content

Publisher's Preface

Introduction

Taking the Order

First Series of Measures

The Lengths

How to take the measures

The T-Tape

Scale of Average Measures

Drafting the Pattern

The Question of Style

The Sleeve System

The Pockets

The Collar

Cutting from the Cloth

The Question of Inlays

Planning the Fittungs

Writing the Ticket of Instructions

Trimming

Matching

The Canvas

Cut the Linings

The Canvas and Side-Stays

The Use of Linen

The Shoulders

Sewing on the Collar

Trying-on

The Ballance

Examining the finished Garment

Folding and Packing a Garment

The Fitting Lounge

Another Style

Fashionable Reefer

Dress Jackets

The three Styles

Norfolk Jacket

Sporting Skirted Jacket

The Skirt

The Patrol Jacket

Universal Service Dress Jacket

The Rinding Lounge

Pyjama Jacket

Dressing Gowns

Smoking Jacket

Boy's Lounge Jacket

Boy's Sailor or American Blouse

The Cape Collar

The Clerical Lounge

The Lounge for Livery Servants

Pantry Jacket

Types of Highland Dress

The Sporting Costume

Roll Collar

Eccentric Styles

The Talma

How to Remedy

Disproportion Figures

Stooping Figure

The Erect Figure

Large Shouldered Figures

Small Shoulders

Long Neck

Short Necks

Long Bodies

Short Bodies

Corpulent Lounges

Prominent Blades

Workmen's Lounge

Lounge for Hump-Back

Prominent Hips

Conclusion

Illustrations of the Lounges

PREVIOUSLY PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

https://www.becomeatailor.com

PUBLISHER'S PREFACE

This work is devoted to the cutting of all kinds of Lounge Jackets by the Cutter's Practical Guide System, and contains the result of much research, experiment and experience.

The simplicity and reliability of the C.P.G. System is admitted on all hands, and is being practised in thousands of cuttingrooms with success, so that we have every confidence that it will prove equally successful in the hands of those who purchase this volume.

Lounges have undergone considerable changes during the last few years, and the diagrams in this work are thoroughly up-todate; but whilst they portray the latest styles, they give equal attention to the ordinary patterns, and those special styles which only meet with an occasional demand, so that the whole subject of Lounges is treated in a comprehensive manner.

We also note that every phase of disproportion has been fully described, so that we have every confidence that this work will prove a worthy successor to the many C.P.G. parts that have been published by us, and which have proved so helpful to the trade.

The method of treating the various styles has been concise and to the point, so that the description of the system might go on the same page as the diagram.

We have omitted illustrations of style in nearly every case from the pages, inasmuch as they would interfere with the above plan; but have supplemented the work by a series of fashion figures, which will serve as a useful guide to styler for all garments of the Lounge class.

PUBLISHERS,

THE JOHN WILLIAMSON CO., LTD.

THE Cutter's Practical Guide

TO THE CUTTING AND MAKING OF LOUNGES

CHAPTER I. — HOW TO CUT, FIT, AND FINISH A PLAIN LOUNGE.

INTRODUCTION.

The present volume has been arranged on a somewhat different plan to any work on cutting which has yet appeared, and whilst we have made the C.P.G. System the basis of our scientific instruction, yet we have described it in such easy stages that it should be well within the reach of the youngest and most inexperienced tailor to cut and makeup these garments. Our aim has been to describe all the various processes, from taking the order to sending home the finished garment, doing this, we have taken the plain S.B. Lounge as a basis of our opera-tions, and after this has been gone through in detail, we have proceeded to describe the application of the system to various styles and various forms. Not the least useful of these are the descriptions of cutting for hunchbacks and corpulent figures. Our endeavour has been to produce an Educational Work, and, if we have erred, it has been on the side of simplicity, in describing points which are generally understood. Previous experience, however, has taught us that these are the very things which are not known by many, and these are the very foundation of successful cutting.

During recent years, many changes have been made in the style of this class of garment. A few years ago, they were made to hang straight, and seldom exceeded 28 inches in length for the 5ft. 8in. figure; at the present time, they are made to fit the waist closely, have an abundance of spring over the hips, and are fully 4 inches longer. The whole-back has been replaced by a centre-seam, and this is generally finished with a deep slit, and with a broad back-tack. This is the fashionable style, but when we bear in mind that the Lounge is worn by all classes, many of whom care little for the latest fashion, it becomes apparent that every care must be taken to find out the wishes of the customer. In this, he will, of course, be greatly helped by a knowledge of the style most popular in his district, and especially with the class to which his customer belongs.

We have endeavoured, in this book, to produce a work of a most practical character, so without further introduction, we start with the first operation the cutter has to deal with in connection with his customer, viz.,

TAKING THE ORDER.

We will assume that the customer has selected the material, and, after examining the various fashion plates, has given definite instructions respecting the style in which he wishes the garment to be cut and made. The details of the order, as far as they refer to pockets, finish of the edges, time of completion, and so forth, have all been entered in the Order Book, and the cutter is now ready to measure the customer. We hold that it is of the first importance that the cutter, before he measures, should know what he is measuring for, and hence we advocate that the details of the order should all be taken before the tape is applied to the customer's body.

Just a word in passing in reference to the inch-tape. This should be clean and reliable. An inch-tape is subjected to a good deal of hard wear in the cutter's hands, and it is not surprising that in a week or two its surface accumulates an amount of dirt which renders it objectionable for measuring purposes. The same hard wear is calculated to impair its accuracy, and although this may not be noticeable to any considerable extent, yet it is as well that we should not only have a clean tape, but also an accurate one. For our own part, we prefer an inch-tape which is rather narrow. There are some made a quarter of an inch wide, but perhaps the most useful is the ⅜in. wide. We are now ready to take the

FIRST SERIES OF MEASURES,

Which are illustrated on Figures 1 and 2, and consist of chest, waist and hips. The chest is illustrated at A A, the waist at B B, and the hips at C C. We would particularly direct the attention of those who are not experienced in measuring, to the position of the tape on Figure 1. This should go straight round the body on a level with the bottom of the armpits, and in taking the first measure, it is always well to find out your customer's idea of ease. People vary so much in their tastes in this particular that unless some effort is made to find out their wishes, it may involve considerable alterations. The waist is taken round the smallest part of the body, and the hips just over the prominence of the seat. It is not absolutely necessary that the seat measure should always be taken, but it is a useful measure, and enables you to detect any abnormality at that particular part, and as the fit of the back depends very much on the harmony existing between the bottom of the Lounge and the shape of the figure, it may be just as well to take it. These measures will probably stand as follows: 36 chest, 32 waist, 37 seat. Each measure should be called out as it is taken, and the person entering the measures in the Order Book should repeat the quantities after the cutter. Our next step is to take

THE LENGTHS,

And before we do this, it is necessary to locate the level of the bottom of the scye. This may be done by putting the tape over the shoulders, saddle fashion, and bringing it under the arms to the centre of the back. A little practice will soon enable absolute accuracy to be obtained in this particular.

Another method is illustrated on Figures 7 and 9, where the square is put under the armpit, where a mark is made at P in the front, and a corresponding mark behind it will enable the cutter to obtain the accurate position of point N on Figure 4. We are now ready to take this series of measures. We start from the nape of neck point, E (Figure 4), and measure down to N say 9 inches, then continue on to the natural waist length, which is usually equal to one-fourth of the total height, to F 17 inches, and continue on to G, the full length, 28 inches.

In taking the full length of the garment, it will be well to consult the customer's wishes, though. at the same time, you should be thoroughly acquainted with the style in which they are worn at present, so that you may be able to offer such advice to your customer as will enable him to secure a smart-fitting garment. At present, this runs about half the height, less 2 inches.

The next measure to be taken is the width across the back, from H to I on Figure 5. This should be done with the arm resting at the side. If there is no back-seam to the garment, measure right across the back from back scye to back scye, and halve the measure. Now raise the arm and bend the elbow, as illustrated on Figure 6, and continue the measure from H to J for elbow length, and on to K for full length of sleeve. With reference to the length of sleeve, customers vary in their tastes. One gentleman wishes to show a moderate amount of cuff, whilst another prefers a sleeve long enough to dispense with cuffs altogether. The prominent bone at wrist may be taken as a good guide for the average taste as regards length of sleeve. These measures would run as follows: 7, 19, 32.

The next measure we take is the width across the chest, illustrated on Figure 3. It is taken about 4 inches below the level of the shoulder, and is taken from the front of the left scye to a corresponding position on the right scye, the half-measure being entered in the Order Book. Thus, presuming the distance from front of right scye to front of left scye is 16 inches, the measure entered would be 8.

The front shoulder is the next taken, and this is one of the most important. Starting from the nape of neck, point E of Figure 4, or point L of Figure 8, you measure down to the bottom of scye, as illustrated by point M on Figure 7. This measure should be taken fairly. Perhaps rather to the close side than otherwise, and should, of course, be taken to the level of bottom scye only.

The last measure is known as the over-shoulder, and is taken from point N of Figure 8, over the shoulder at O, Figures 8 and 9, down to point P, Figure 9, which is the same point to which the front shoulder was taken.

In order to facilitate the taking of the measures, some of the users of the C.P.G. have resorted to mechanical assistance, and the simplest of these is the Registered T Tape, an illustration of which we give on Page 4. If a strip of elastic is arranged to go round the body and attach to either side of this, it forms an excellent guide for taking the measures, etc. The T Tape, with elastic fitting, may be obtained from the “Tailor and Cutter" Office, price 1s. 3d., post free. It must not be supposed, however, that any special apparatus is necessary to take these measures; for our own part we have found the ordinary inch-tape all sufficient; still, that does not apply to all, and as it is best for each cutter to use the method that suits him best, we describe the T Tape as being as good an instrument as any for this purpose.

Plate 1

If these measures are taken with a fair amount of intelligence, they will enable the cutter to provide for all the peculiarities of shape. It will, of course, be desirable for him to do this part of his work with his eyes open, so that, without resorting to any rough handling of the figure, he may yet be able to detect if there is any extra wadding or padding needed in the figure at any part, whilst it would also be helpful for him to observe any disproportion that may exist in the customer, so that he may be enabled to give his workmen instructions accordingly.

The "T" Tape.

GENTLEMANLY MANNER

Is of the utmost importance. For, coming in contact as the cutter necessarily must, with many gentlemen who move in the best circles of society, it is in the highest sense desirable that he should have a certain amount of polish in his speech, combined with a courteous manner, which will enable him to do his duties in such a way as to convey a good impression on his customer.

The young man who desires to be expert in this important branch of cutting will find it necessary to practise what we have here described, so that he may be able to follow us in our second stage, which will consist of instructions on "How to Draft a Lounge Jacket."

The following table of measures will prove of great service to the cutter when working from travellers' measures, and also to check those he may be doubtful of.

DRAFTING THE PATTERN.

We now take our readers to the next stage in cutting and making a Lounge, namely, the drafting of the pattern; and here it may be well for us to state that we hold very decided opinions on the advantages of drafting a pattern as contrasted with drafting the garment directly on the cloth. On the surface, it may seem that the former method takes a longer time, while it also involves an outlay in brown paper. Experience, however, proves it to be otherwise, for it is certainly more economical to use a cut-out brown paper pattern, as it enables the cutter to place the various parts of the garment on the material in such a position as will allow it to be taken from the material without any undue bias, and, at the same time, for the lay to be arranged, and, if need be, rearranged, in the most economical fashion. We will presume, then, that our readers agree with us to draft the pattern out on brown paper. Consequently, we take a sheet of paper, a square, a piece of pipeclay, and our inch-tape, and proceed to draw the

Scale of Average Measures.

Chest.

Waist.

Scye Depth.

Nat. Waist.

Length.

Across Back.

Full Length Sleeve.

Across Chest,

Front Sholdr.

Over Sholdr.

24

24

6¼

11¾

20

5⅛

19½

54

9½

12¾

26

25

6¾

13

22

5½

22½

5¾

10

13½

28

26

7¼

14

24

5 ⅞

25

6¼

10½

14¼

30

27

7¾

15

26

6⅛

27½

6¾

11

14¾

32

28

8¼

16

28

6½

30

7¼

11½

15½

34

30

8⅝

16½

28½

6 ⅞

31

7⅝

12

16¼

36

32

9

17

29

7¼

32

8

12½

17

38

34

7⅜

17¼

29½

75⅝

33

8½

13

17¾

40

37

9¾

17¾

30

8

33½

9

13½

18½

42

39½

10⅛

18

30¼

8¾

33½

9½

14

19¼

44

42

10½

18¼

31

8¾

34

10

14½

20

46

46

10¾

18½

31½

9

34

10½

15¼

21

48

50

11

18½

32

9¼

34

11

16

22

50

54

11¼

18½

32

9½

34

11½

16¾

23

52

55½

11⅜

18½

32½

9¾

33¾

12

17¼

23¾

54

57

11½

18¾

32½

10

33½

123

18

24½

56

60

11½

18¾

32½

10⅜

33½

13

18¼

25

58

63

11¾

18¾

33

10¾

33½

13½

18¾

25½

60

66

11¾

19

33

11¼

33½

14

19

25¾

FIRST LINES.

We must, of course, be careful to test our square from time to time to see that it is true, and that it really draws lines at right angles. Otherwise, disastrous results may follow. First of all, draw a line on the side of the paper furthest from you, drafting from right to left. This is illustrated by Diagram 1, and on this we proceed to mark off the depths. Starting from O, which represents the nape of the neck, we mark down to the shoulder level. The position of this is really a matter of taste, and may be varied higher or lower without in any way affecting the fit of the garment, the ordinary working of the C.P.G. System making all the necessary compensations on the forepart for any variations which may take place in the back. A very good guide for general purposes will be found in making O 3 equal to one-third of the depth of scye. Our readers may take this as a standard quantity, and vary from it in harmony with their own tastes.

From O to 9 is the depth of scye, this measure having been taken directly on the customer.

O to 17 is the natural waist length, which is also a direct measure.

O to 28½ is the full length of the garment plus two seams, this measure having also been taken directly on the customer.

MARKING THE WIDTHS.