The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 6 E-Book

W. D. F. Vincent

• Herausgeber: BoD - Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 337

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

It is now about three years since we added a new part to "The Cutter's Practical Guide Systems" in the form of a Work on ladies' tailor-made garments. Not only has a large Edition been disposed of, but a number of the styles which were then popular are now out of date. In preparing this new Edition, a number of what are now regarded as old styles are deleted, and the new and popular styles of the period take their place. The Work is based on the "Guide" System, and was originally prepared to meet a two-fold want or demand - an instructor and guide to the production of all the new and popular styles in tailor-made garments; and also the demand for such a work by the Practical Guide System. The Work itself will bear testimony to its scope, and the way in which every current, as well as new style of Ladies' Tailor-made Garment is treated and illustrated. Here we have the systems for producing the garments, each illustrated by beautifully engraved diagrams; and there is, further, the finished garments, illustrated upon artistically engraved figures. The Work thus presents a completeness which renders it an invaluable acquisition to the ladies' cutter. We doubt not but this new and latest Work will fully sustain the character we have already attained by the Works now being published at the TAILOR AND CUTTER Office.

Leseprobe

"W.D.F. Vincent was born in Junie 1860 and began his career as an apprentice with Frederick Cooper in Yeovil. After completing his training, he briefly established his own businesses in Oxford and later in Maidenhead as a clothier and tailor, though neither venture was financially successful.

While in Maidenhead, Vincent won an essay competition on tailoring, which was open to all members of the National Federation of Foremen Tailors, titled "The Great National Work on Trouser Cutting, or Defects in Trousers." He submitted his entry under the pseudonym "Oxonian" and won the first prize. This success led him to secure a position with The Tailor and Cutter magazine. In the early years, Vincent contributed numerous articles on tailoring methods and techniques to the magazine. However, due to the terms of his employment, these articles were published without attribution to him.

By the 1890s, Vincent became a leading tailoring authority. His books, such as The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making of All Kinds of Trousers, became standard reference work. By 1917, Vincent referred to himself as a journalist. He died in June 1926.

The Tailor and Cutter magazine and academy were operated by John Williamson & Co Ltd. In the 1950s and 1960s, many tailors displayed their Tailor & Cutter Academy Diplomas, signed by W.D.F. Vincent, as the Chairman of Examiners, as a centerpiece in their shop windows. One such example can still be seen on display at the Museum of Welsh Life at St. Fagans in South Wales."

(cf. https://vincents.org.uk/family-history/w-d-f-vincent-tailor; 15.12.2024)

This edition is a reprint of the legendary 'Cutter's Practical Guide' series; the first book in a series of thirteen was published in 1890. The entire text has been meticulously read, and the images have been carefully cleaned and edited to ensure the highest quality.

Part 1

–

Juvenile Garments

Part 2

–

Body Coats

Part 3

–

Trousers, Breeches & Knickers

Part 4

–

Livery Garments in all their varieties

Part 5

–

Overcoats

Part 6

–

Ladies' Garments

Part 7

–

Defects, Remedies, Trying on

Part 8

–

Economical Cutting

Part 9

–

Lounges, Reefers, Norfolk, Sporting & Patrol Jackets

Part 10

–

Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, Livery Servants, etc.

Part 11

–

Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons and Speciality Clothing for Various Occupations

Part 12

–

Clerical Dress

Part 13

–

British Military Uniforms

This edition is a reprint of the legendary [...] Part 13 - British Military Uniforms

PUBLISHER'S PREFACE

It is now about three years since we added a new part to "The Cutter's Practical Guide Systems" in the form of a Work on ladies' tailor-made garments. Not only has a large Edition been disposed of, but a number of the styles which were then popular are now out of date. In preparing this new Edition, a number of what are now regarded as old styles are deleted, and the new and popular styles of the period take their place.

The Work is based on the "Guide" System, and was originally prepared to meet a two-fold want or demand — an instructor and guide to the production of all the new and popular styles in tailor-made garments; and also the demand for such a work by the Practical Guide System.

The Work itself will bear testimony to its scope, and the way in which every current, as well as new style of Ladies' Tailor-made Garment is treated and illustrated. Here we have the systems for producing the garments, each illustrated by beautifully engraved diagrams; and there is, further, the finished garments, illustrated upon artistically engraved figures. The Work thus presents a completeness which renders it an invaluable acquisition to the ladies' cutter. Should the inexperienced or timid cutter hesitate to use his own productions by these systems, our arrangements for supplying Special Cut Patterns of any style of ladies' garment — if the style can be conveyed to us — at a very nominal price, will meet the difficulty, at the same time allow him to compare our pattern with his own production.

We doubt not but this new and latest Work will fully sustain the character we have already attained by the Works now being published at the TAILOR AND CUTTER Office.

THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED.

PREVIOUSLY PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

https://www.becomeatailor.com

Content

SECTION ONE

Introduction

Anatomy

Eight Heads Theory

The Highest Ideals of Proportion

The Relation of the Male and Female Forms

Venus de Medicis

The Principles which Govern the Fitting of Garments

The Height and Size of Neck

The Location and Size of Scye

Provision for Prominence and Depressions

Provision for Muscular Development

SECTION TWO

Art in Relation to Ladies' Garments

The Laws of Beauty

Colour

Division of Light

Application to Tailoring

The Harmony of Contrast

Black, White, and Grey

Colour and Sentiment

Form and Pattern

Lines and Curves

Effect Produced by Materials

Patterns of Materials

Checked Goods

Ornamentation

Alternation

SECTION THREE

Measuring. — Taking the Order

Fashion Plates

The Order Book

Measuring

Jackets and Habits

Vest Measures

Ulster Measures

Skirt Measures

Riding Trains

Knickers

Gaiter Measures

SECTION FOUR

The Draft to Measure

The Sleeve System

SECTION FIVE

Costume Bodice

Ladies' Dress Bodice from Checked Material

The Norfolk Jacket

The Arrangement of the Pleats

The Mode of Fastening the Front

Large Size Dress Bodice

The Special Features

Fancy Styles. Ladies' Zouave Jackets

The Sleeve

Costume Jacket and Vest

The Vest

SECTION SIX

Ladies' Riding Habits

Old Style of Riding Habit

New Style of Habit

Materials

Trying On

Newmarket Riding Habit

The Skirt

Fashionable Riding Coat, as made in the West-End

Details of Finish

The Sleeves

Riding Habits for Girls

SECTION SEVEN

Jackets of Various Kinds

Braided Jackets

The Infantry Forepart

The Guards

Loose-fronted Jackets

Ladies Covert Coat and D.B. Reefer

Manipulation

Ladies' D.B. Reefer

Sac Covert Coat and D.B. Reefer

Skirted Jackets. Ladies' Morning Coat

The Skirt

General Remarks

S.B. Newmarket Jacket

The Skirt System

New Style of Skirted Jacket

The Cutting

The Sleeve

The Raglan

The Sleeve

SECTION EIGHT

Capes

The Half-Circle Cape System

Threequarters-Circle Cape System

The Collar

Varieties of Capelettes

Costume Capelettes

Jacket Capelettes

Hoods

The Round Hood

The Cape Hood

Fancy Pointed Hood

Ladies' Ulsters

Hints on Making

D.B. Ulster

The Lapel

D.B. Loose-fronted Ulsters

The Capes

New Style of Driving Cape

The Sleevelet or Cape

Varieties of Ladies' Ulsters

The Cross-over Front

Variations in the Back

Newmarket Ulsters

The Russian Circular Cloak

The Variations of Style

SECTION NINE

Dolmans and Cloaks

Capes

The Bodypart

The Circular Cloak or Plain Cape

Inverness for Ladies

New Style of Ladies' Mantle

The Hood

SECTION TEN

Sleeves

The Jacket Sleeve

Sleeves for a Large Size Dress Bodice

The Sleeve Problem

Variations in Style

"Lego' Mutton" or "Gigot" Sleeves

Very Full Sleeve Heads

Defects in the Fitting of Sleeves

Creases Across the Top of Forearm

Creases in Forearm and Elbow

Loose and Superfluous Material at Top of Hindarm

SECTION ELEVEN

Ladies' Vests

S.B. No-Collar Vest

D.B. No-Collar Vest

D.B. Vest with Lapel sewn on

Step Roll Collar

Fall Collar

SECTION TWELVE

Ladies' Skirts

The West End Train

Cutting from the Cloth

A "Try-on"

West End Train. by H. A. H.

Making of a Train

The New Safety Train

The Special Features

Patent Safety Trains

The Busvine Safety Train

Hohne's Patent Safety Skirt

The Davis Patent Safety Riding Skirt

The Cutter's Practical Guide Riding Train, by System

The Measures

Cycling Skirts

The Measures

Divided Skirt

"The Ladies' Tailor" Cycling Skirt

Fashionable Walking Skirts

The New Lacing Skirt

The Ordinary Costume Skirt

New Styles of Skirts

Braided Skirts

Draped Skirts

SECTION THIRTEEN

Ladies' Trousers, Breeches, and Gaiters

The Trousers

Breeches

The Measures

The Leggings

Ladies' Cycling Knickers and Bloomers

Gaiters

SECTION FOURTEEN

Blouses, Shirts, and Combinations

The Marlow Shirt

Ladies' Blouse

The Sailor Collar

Ladies' Knickers

SECTION FIFTEEN

Collars

Stand Collar

The Panteen Collar

The Shakespeare Collar

The Medici Collar

Prussian Collar

Stand and Fall Collar

Cape Collars

SECTION SIXTEEN

Defects and Remedies

An Incorrect Balance

Creases from Blade to the Underarm

Diagonal Creases below Waist

Creases at Waist

Looseness of Front Edge

Looseness at Front of Scye

Fulness at the top of the Darts

Creases in Shoulder

Creases round Neck

Loose in Back, and Tight in Front

SECTION SEVENTEEN

Swiss Belts

Dovetail Tacks

How to take the Pattern of an Old Garment

Grading

SECTION TWO.

Art in Relation to Ladies' Garments. Fashion Designing. Plate 3.

There is a general desire on the part of ladies to have original styles, and whilst we are reminded again and again there is no new thing under the sun, and that fashion periodically returns, yet the reverse of this is equally true, viz., that as no two leaves are exactly alike, so with the combination of form, colour, and material, each costume may be quite distinct and fresh. Let us assume a lady comes to order a costume, and as she does so, we show her a number of Plates, she is much taken with the one in particular, and wishes us to adapt Figure A in a somewhat similar style to some of the others, for instance, she prefers the vest should fasten right up to the throat, and wishes the bodice to fasten at the waist with a much fuller skirt below, the braiding to be retained, together with a little braiding on the skirts, as on Figure A.

The sleeves are to be of the same style as shown, but with fancy cuffs, and the back of the skirt being finished in a large double box pleat, as shown on Figure B. It is, of course, not to be expected that these details will be arranged without a good deal of conversation, and as the cutter may be appealed to a great many times during the progress of discussion, it will be necessary for him to be thoroughly conversant with

The Laws of Beauty.

Fashion is often far from beauty, and it is necessary for us to modify those that would not suit our customer, if a stylish and beautiful garment is to be the result. It must be obvious to the most superficial observer that one style would not suit all classes of figures, the short and stout must be specially catered for as well as the tall and thin, and there are few customers who are more alive to this fact than those ladies who are a little out of proportion.

But not only must the style be adapted to the prevailing fashion, and the customer's peculiarities, but there must be unity, order and proportion in the design. For instance, if it is a Costume, the skirt must have something about it to show its connection with the bodice, and the trimming is a very fruitful means of providing this, and so in like manner order must be introduced, a something to show there has been a designer at work, and that order has been carefully arranged. The proportion of the various parts must be harmonious; and if, as was the case a few years ago, there is a tendency to extra large sleeves, well, the only plan is to modify them as far as possible.

Plate 3

A LESSON IN FASHION DESIGNING.

Colour

Must also receive proper attention; not only should the material and trimmings harmonise together, but both must blend with the complexion, &c.

First of all, then, we would remind our readers that all colours depend upon light; without light there is no colour, but with light we get all the varying shades of the rainbow.

The light as it streams down to flood the earth appears to us to have no colour, though we usually consider pure light to be white, from the simple fact that white reflects the light as nearly as possible the same as it comes down from the great luminary. In reality there is in that light every possible colour we can conceive, and to prove this, we prepared a darkened room (see Diagram top of Plate), in such a way that the only light that enters it comes through a hole in the door or window, and this we so arrange that it is only out about the size of a pencil. We now take a prism, and by these means we make a

Division of Light.