The Cutter's Practical Guide, Part 4 E-Book

W. D. F. Vincent

• Herausgeber: BoD - Books on Demand
• Kategorie: Lebensstil
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 156

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2025

Beschreibung

The work we have now completed, which will be placed before the members of an intelligent profession, is essentially the outcome of practical experience in the high-class livery trade. But as the experience of one on so wide a topic as all kinds of Liveries must, of necessity, be of a limited nature, we have gladly availed ourselves of a large circle of trade friends, many of whom are engaged in some of the most noted Livery trades in this great City of London. Many of these have materially helped in the preparation of this work, for which we extend to them our hearty thanks, feeling assured that the ideas and hints gained from such sources have such a practical bearing on the subject of Liveries, that the value of the work has been largely enhanced thereby. We have spared neither trouble nor pains to make this work as complete as possible, and trust it will supply a feeling of want in tailoring establishments.

Leseprobe

"W.D.F. Vincent was born in Junie 1860 and began his career as an apprentice with Frederick Cooper in Yeovil. After completing his training, he briefly established his own businesses in Oxford and later in Maidenhead as a clothier and tailor, though neither venture was financially successful.

While in Maidenhead, Vincent won an essay competition on tailoring, which was open to all members of the National Federation of Foremen Tailors, titled "The Great National Work on Trouser Cutting, or Defects in Trousers." He submitted his entry under the pseudonym "Oxonian" and won the first prize. This success led him to secure a position with The Tailor and Cutter magazine. In the early year’s, Vincent contributed numerous articles on tailoring methods and techniques to the magazine. However, due to the terms of his employment, these articles were published without attribution to him.

By the 1890s, Vincent became a leading tailoring authority. His books, such as The Cutter's Practical Guide to the Cutting & Making of All Kinds of Trousers, became standard reference work. By 1917, Vincent referred to himself as a journalist. He died in June 1926.

The Tailor and Cutter magazine and academy were operated by John Williamson & Co Ltd. In the 1950s and 1960s, many tailors displayed their Tailor & Cutter Academy Diplomas, signed by W.D.F. Vincent, as the Chairman of Examiners, as a centerpiece in their shop windows. One such example can still be seen on display at the Museum of Welsh Life at St. Fagans in South Wales."

(cf. https://vincents.org.uk/family-history/w-d-f-vincent-tailor; 15.12.2024)

This edition is a reprint of the legendary Cutter's Practical Guide series; the first book was published in 1890. Although W. D. F. Vincent wrote many books on tailoring, these are the most popular. The entire text has been meticulously read, and the images have been carefully cleaned and edited to ensure the highest quality.

Part 1 – Juvenile Garments

Part 2 – Body Coats

Part 3 – Trousers, Breeches & Knickers

Part 4 – Livery Garments in all their varieties

Part 5 – Overcoats

Part 6 – Ladies' Garments

Part 7 – Defects, Remedies, Trying on

Part 8 – Economical Cutting

Part 9 – Lounges, Reefers, Norfolk, Sporting & Patrol Jackets

Part 10 – Waistcoats for Gentlemen, Ladies, Military & Naval Officers, etc.

Part 11 – Shirts, Undergarments, Collars, Cuffs, Aprons, etc.

Part 12 – Clerical Dress

Part 13 – British Military Uniforms

Content

Introduction

Livery Trousers

Coachman's Riding Trousers

Breeches

Footman's Dress Breeches

Coachman's Breeches

Gamekeeper's Leggings

Livery Leggings

Livery Gaiters

Coachmen's Vests

Sleeve Vest

The Sleeve

Footmen's Dress Vest

Full or State Dress

Details of Making

The Collar System

The Coachman's Frock

The System

The position of the Seams

The Skirt System

Footman's Coatee

The System

Details of Finish

Groom's Frock

The Cutting

The Making

Butler's Dress Coat

The Cutting

The Fronts and Lapel

Page's Jacket

Postilion's Jacket

Huntsman's Frock Coat

The Cutting

The Pockets

Details of Make

Gamekeeper's Coat

The Skirt

Morning Coat

The Cutting

The Skirt

Lounge for Coachman & Groom

The Cutting

Footman's Pantry Jacket

The Cutting

The System for Sleeves

Livery Overcoats

The Sytem of Cutting

Unofficial Court Dress

Different Kinds

The Cost of Court Dress

Official Court Dress

The Cutting

Coachman's State Livery

The Cutting

The Badge on the Sleeve

The Vest and Breeches

Footman's Semi-State Livery

Varieties of Full Dress

Coachman's Macintosh

The Cutting

The Making

Three-Quarter Circle Cape

Sac Over Coat

The Old Style of Box Coat

The Cutting

Economy Lays

Conclusion

Appendix

Coachman's Riding Trousers

Piping the Sideseam of Trousers

Position of Brace Buttons

The Position of Strap Buttons

Hints on the Making-up of Breeches

To Cut Wholefalls

Bilston Bearers

Vests, Taking the Measures

The Depth of Scye

The Across Chest Measure

The Front Shoulder Measure

The Over Shoulder Measure

Coats

Cockades

PREVIOUSLY PRINTED BY THE JOHN WILLIAMSON COMPANY LIMITED, 93 & 94 DRURY LANE, LONDON, W.C.

https://www.becomeatailor.com

AUTHOR'S PREFACE

T he Work we have now completed, and which will be placed before the members of an intelligent profession, is in a large manner the outcome of practical experience in high-class livery trade. But as the experience of one on so wide a topic as all kinds of Liveries must of necessity be of a limited nature, we have gladly availed ourselves of a large circle of trade friends, many of whom are engaged in some of the most noted Livery trades in this great City of London. Many of these have materially helped in the preparation of this Work, for which we extend to them our hearty thanks, feeling assured that the ideas and hints gained from such sources have such a practical bearing on the subject of Liveries, that the value of the Work has been largely enhanced thereby. We have spared neither trouble nor pains to make this work as complete as possible, and trust it will supply a felt want in tailoring establishments.

W. D. F. VINCENT.

THE

GUTTER’S PRACTIEAL GUIDE

TO

LIVERY GARMENTS, &c.

INTRODUCTION.

In treating of Livery Garments, it will be well if, at the start, we get a correct definition of what livery is. The dictionary explains it as follows: —

"LIVERY. — That which is delivered out statedly, as clothing, food, etc., especially the peculiar dress by which the servants of a household are distinguished; peculiar dress appropriated by any body of persons to their own use; company of those wearing such a garb; any characteristic dress or outward appearance; an allowance statedly given out; v.t., to clothe in livery."

Liveries are of very ancient origin. When the ancient Greeks used that pithy saying, "The dress shows the man", they intended it to convey that it proclaimed his social condition, quite as much as his moral character. The custom of livery is really derived from the term liberata or liberatio, a term applied to the delivery or distribution (made by the Merovingian and Carlovingian races) of particular sets of clothes to the servants throughout the palace, and at the sovereign's expense. In common phrase this was called a livrée, and it was ordinarily performed in the plenary courts of France. We also find a term of similar signification used by the early German emperors.

In the days of chivalry, livery, in the proper sense of the word, often covered noble backs; the duke's son was page to the prince, and wore his livery. The earl's second son serving a duke donned his master's coat and colours. The knight's second son, and the esquire's son, joyfully wore the livery of him they served, whilst many cases are recorded of the younger brothers of noblemen serving their elder brother, and wearing with all humility their elder kinsman's coat and badge.

The badge on the arm is distinctly traceable as far back as Edward IV, and consists of a cloth or metal circle, worn on the left arm, and displaying the crest of the wearer's master. This is only retained by the few at the present time, such as the fraternity of Watermen, who wear the "Doggett's coat and badge," the Lord Mayor's servants (illustrations of which are given on our Livery Plate), as well as here and there a company of firemen, &c. This mode was at one time so general, that when people desired to apply a proverb to people lacking the ordinary appendages, they said, "like a coat without a badge." The badge was probably peculiar to England, as it appears to have excited the curiosity of foreigners in the time of Queen Elizabeth. Laced cloaks were given as livery in the time of James I. For a considerable time livery was worn by other common men, besides salaried servants; they were looked upon as the retainers of him whose livery they wore, and their service was that of the strong hand, which was ever ready to be raised in their master's services. So formidable a body did they become in time, that the law at last stepped in, and decided that without license no noble could retain such followers; and permitted the master to give livery only to his own household servants, officers, and counsel learned in the law. When this law was evaded, as it sometimes was, the penalty of imprisonment was enforced, and increased by fine of £5 per month for every retainer kept without license. The Earl of Oxford, at Hemingham, on one occasion received a visit from Henry VII, and in order to do him honour, had a large muster of retainers specially for this occasion. The king, after thanking him for his good cheer and hospitality, said: "I may not endure to have my laws broken in my sight. My attorney must speak with you." The poor Earl was mulcted in the enormous sum of £10,000, for merely putting livery on the back of a few score men, contrary to the statute of Henry's first Parliament.

Queen Mary signed thirty-nine licenses in her five years reign, whilst her sister Elizabeth signed only fifteen in thirteen years; the former Queen gave permission to Bishop Gardiner to maintain two hundred livery servants, whilst Elizabeth only allowed her Archbishop (Parker) to keep forty, and to no one did she grant permission to keep more than one hundred.

Licences and retainers were both abolished in the reign of Charles II, and since that period livery has only been worn by the lower class of household servants.

Many of the livery appendages may be traced to fashion once patronized by nobles. The old style of long waistcoat, a few years ago so generally worn by the groom, is the old undercoat of the squire, and the three cornered hat of the coachman once figured at sovereign courts on aristocratic brows.

At one time the French liveries were of the most gorgeous description, but the fashion and the word so betokened a menial, that liveries were abolished by the Constituent National Assembly as incompatible with a republican system, founded on the tripod of liberty, equality and fraternity.

Many instances are on record of livery servants making an immense fortune by speculation, in such schemes as the South Sea and Mississippi, and after having amassed these fortunes, and setting up carriage, horses and livery servants of their own, so far forgetting themselves as to take their old seat on the box. Baron Ward is a good example of a man beginning as a livery servant and rising to eventually become at the close of his career Prime Minister to the late Duke of Parma.

Livery is a term that has often been used by the poets. One puts "April's livery" on spring; Milton speaks of twilight as the "silver livery" of the evening; Hood described the livery of the earth as "grass green turned up with brown," &c.

"Livery" is a term also applied to the ninety-one companies of the City of London, the members of which formerly wore clothes resembling in both form and colour those of the Lord Mayor and Sheriffs. Of these companies, the "Merchant Taylors" occupies the position of seventh. It possesses large property, and a noble hall where they feast and make merry. The first twelve of these companies were at one time known as "honorable", they are now merely known as "great". On next page we give the coat of arms of the "Merchant Taylors", which, in addition to the connection it has with livery, will doubtless interest our readers generally.

From this introduction to liveries from a historical and general standpoint, we will proceed to treat of them more directly, practically, and so in harmony with the object of our treatise. We will proceed to note a few of the

Special Features of Livery Garments.

Speaking generally, they should be made without any attempt to follow the prevailing fashion. Plainness, neatness and serviceability must be the ideals aimed at. The edges are invariably finished bluff, except when piped with another colour cloth; or, in the case of livery overcoats, which, owing to the thickness of the material used, are more often finished raw edge, and double stitched. This remark does not, of course, apply to full dress livery, where the most elaborate braiding and trimming is used. The linings are always of the plainest description; the sleeve lining, for instance, should be a self colour, such as slate or light drab; stripes being in all cases conspicuous by their absence. The body lining too (except in the case of full dress livery garments and for the page boy) should be free from stitching or anything of an ornamental nature, all wadding and padding being secured by merely flash baisting.

The workmanship must be such as will stand hard wear; the buttons must be sewn on well, the pockets firmly stayed and tacked, and made generally with a view to hard wear, rather than for appearance. With all this they must be neat, and the fit must be above reproach, for livery servants are generally very smart men, who are most particular about their appearance; and being continually in the presence of their employers, are naturally desirous of appearing at their best; so that any approach to clumsiness in make, fit, or finish would be a serious defect in a livery garment. Livery servants require, and indeed will have, consideration; so that, whilst regulations must be adhered to, yet their own pet ideas and notions must not be ignored. The best guide we know of for liveries, is an old garment of the same kind, as worn by the same servant; it being a noted fact that families employing liveried servants are generally very conservative, seldom changing the colour, style or finish. Fashion's hand — although distinctly discernible, as in the old style of notched collar end now being obsolete — touches liveries very lightly, and the changes are almost imperceptible in this respect; so that liveries may, to all intent and purposes, be regarded as being unaffected by fashion.

The materials used for livery garments are generally of a heavier and somewhat coarser make than used for gents' garments, as for instance, the difference between a refine and a superfine.

The Rules for the Selection of Colours

Are as follows. First in importance, consuit your customers' wishes. If they ask your advice, then recommend that the coat be of the same colour as the body of the carriage is painted, with a fine piping the same colour as the fine lines on thecarriage; the buttons the same colour as the harness fittings; and the vest, if of striped Valencia, the same as the band on the horse's forehead. For the overcoat, advise either a drab Devon or a Devon of the same colour as the lining of the carriage. These are the recognized rules for the tailor's guidance, but inasmuch as families have their fancies in this respect, they are not adhered to in all cases.

Buttons are a somewhat important feature in liveries. They are mostly made from a specially cut die, which costs in the first place from 30s. to 40s., and which is charged to the customer; but this only applies if he has not had buttons of that particular die before, as once the die is cut it lasts for all time. The tailor having taken the order, writes to his button makers, and gives the name of the family and description of the button; or, better still, an old button. They will then make them or get them made; this takes some days, so that it is advisable to order them as soon as possible, as one cannot get on far with the majority of livery garments without the buttons, a large number of them being plugged; indeed, all that are used for ornament only are put on thus, which consists of making a hole in the cloth with the bodkin, and forcing the shank through it, and fastening it on the other side with a plug of linen or canvas.

Messrs. J. Platt & Co. have a special arrangement for the supply of dies for livery buttons. They offer to make them at half the usual cost, provided the die remains their properly; and in this way brings them all orders for this particular make of button.

Buttons can be ordered from stock with plain or fancy letters, called initial buttons; and in addition to these there are the plain doctors' buttons, used largely by those who do not care to go to the expense of crested buttons, such people, for instance, as only keep one servant.

The number of buttons required for the various garments are as follows: Overcoats, 18 large; Coachman's Frock, 12 large, 4 small; Coachman's Vest, 8 small; Footman's Coatee, 22 large, 4 small; Footman's Vest, 4 or 5 small; Groom's Frock, 12 large, 4 small; Page's Jacket, 16 or 18 ball buttons. Full dress garments vary according to the style of trimming. Crest buttons are used on dress livery breeches, but on all others the ordinary breeches buttons are used; ordinary buttons are also used for gaiters.

In the event of mourning, the crest buttons are generally changed to plain black flexible, and if the garments are not made from black, then cloth bands are put on the arm, as well as cuffs and collar of the same colour. These bands are generally put on the left arm just above the elbow, about two inches wide. Some firms put the band on the right arm for the coachman, and on the left arm for the footman, so that it may look symmetrical when they are seated on the box.

As the tailor often has to supply the silk hat, it may not be out of place to say that the cockade, if there is one, is placed on the left side. There are various patterns of cockades, full particulars of which can be obtained from most hatters' price lists. The cockade is put on by the aid of a hairpin and a cork. First find the position desired (the fan part of the cockade should come above the crown); then two holes are made in the side of the hat, and the hairpin put through cockade and hat, and fastened over a cork on the inside. Livery silk hats are heavier than the ordinary style, and are made more with the view of exposure to bad weather than the ordinary