The Little Book of Bristol - Maurice Fells - E-Book

The Little Book of Bristol E-Book

Maurice Fells

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Beschreibung

A rich, and indeed sometimes bizarre, thread of history weaves its way through the Bristol story. Find out all manner of things, from why a 'Bristol Diamond' would never be found in a jewellery shop to why local by-laws restrict carpet beating to certain hours. Along with a fresh look at city life past and present, these and many more anecdotes will surprise even those Bristolians who thought they really knew their city.

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Seitenzahl: 242

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2015

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

As a passionate born and bred Bristolian, the research and writing of this book has been a labour of love. To pull all the information for this book together, I started by trawling through my own archive of press releases, house magazines and other publicity material issued by old established firms long ago. Many of these firms no longer exist, while others have been swallowed up by global conglomerates.

Reading some of Bristol’s long-extinct newspapers also proved to be a rich source of information. The Western Daily Press, from its first edition in the middle of the nineteenth century to the present day, was extremely useful, as was the Bristol Evening Post founded in 1932.

The staff at Bristol Central Library were, as ever, most patient and extremely helpful in dealing with my numerous enquiries.

I must thank Jan and Simon Fuller for access to their collection of Bristol memorabilia from old theatre programmes to newspaper cuttings.

My thanks also go to Nicola Guy at The History Press for asking me if I would like to write this book.

Last, but certainly not least, I owe a special debt of gratitude to Janet and Trevor Naylor. This is not only for their flow of most helpful advice and suggestions but also for their constant encouragement without which I know this book may never have been completed.

Maurice Fells,2015

CONTENTS

Title

Acknowledgements

Introduction

1. What They Said About Bristol

2. Welcome to Quirky Bristol

3. Around the City

4. Saints, Spires and Steeples

5. Wartime Matters

6. People Who Put Bristol on the Map

7. The City at Work

8. The World of Entertainment

9. Literary Bristol

10. Transports of Delight

11. On the Airwaves

12. Law and Order

13. The Natural World

14. Sporting Bristol

15. On This Day

About the Author

Copyright

INTRODUCTION

There can’t be many cities where you’ll find a sofa on the street corner, or a university housed in a bungalow, or even where the Lord Mayor runs in a half-marathon wearing his full civic regalia of tricorn hat, red robes and chain of office.

This is Bristol, a city that dates back more than 1,000 years but not one that is sleeping in the shadows of its ancient past. It is a successful, modern city, effectively the capital of the West of England.

The city traditionally prospered from the vices of the wine, tobacco and slave trades, but in their stead Bristol has become a thriving financial and new media centre. But that’s not to say it’s full of pinstripe-suited accountants and keyboard tappers, for it also has its bohemian quarter, as well as its cultural and sporting side. It was the birthplace of the graffiti artist Banksy and the trip-hop genre of music.

Wine may not play such an important role in the city’s economy as it did for many years but Bristol can boast having the biggest wine warehouse in Europe. It can, would you believe, hold 57 million bottles of wine at one time.

It is fascinating, but maybe frivolous, and sometimes bizarre facts like this that you will find in this book, which does not pretend to be a definitive or chronological history of Bristol. It is simply a compendium of interesting facts from both the past and the present which I hope will interest visitors or newcomers to the city alike as well as those born and bred here who thought they really knew their city.

1

WHAT THEY SAID ABOUT BRISTOL

On a visit to Bristol, the twelfth-century chronicler William of Malmesbury described the port as being ‘full of ships from Ireland, Norway and every part of Europe, which brought hither great commerce and much foreign wealth’.

King Henry VII found the women of Bristol to be so ‘sumptuously apparelled’ that he ordered every man worth £20 in goods to pay him £1.

It seems that on a week-long visit to Bristol in 1574, Queen Elizabeth was not impressed by the city’s women as she said: ‘By the bones of my father, Mr Mayor, but I protest I never saw so ugly a collection of women as your city can assemble.’

The opinion most commonly known about St Mary Redcliffe church is the one reputed to have been uttered by Elizabeth I on her visit to the city in 1574. She is said to have described it as ‘The fairest, goodliest and most famous parish church in England’. However, no record of her saying this has ever been found. If she didn’t say it, she should have.

Just over a century later, Charles I said something similar about St Mary Redcliffe. He declared: ‘The parish church of Redcliffe for the foundation structures and buildings thereof is one of the most famous absolute fairest and goodliest parish churches within the realm of England.’

On a visit to Bristol, William Camden, a sixteenth-century chronicler, noted: ‘There is a church called Temple, whose tower shakes when the bells ring, that it has parted from the rest of the building, and left a chink from top to bottom three fingers abroad, opening and closing as the bells ring.’

The queen of James I visited the city in 1613 and was entertained with a sham sea-fight and other events. Thanking the city, Her Majesty is reported to have said that ‘I never knew I was Queen until I came to Bristol’.

‘In this city are many proper men, but very few handsome women, and most of them ill bred, being generally men and women very proud, not affable to strangers, but rather much admiring themselves.’ Marmaduke Rawdon, a merchant from York, said on a visit to Bristol in the seventeenth century.

Diarist John Evelyn, who visited Bristol in 1654, said that the city was ‘emulating London in its manner of building, its shops and bridge’.

‘In every respect another London that one can hardly know it to stand in the country,’ said Samuel Pepys, diarist, on a visit to the city in 1668. He went on to say that his host provided ‘good entertainment of strawberries, a whole venison, pasty and plenty of brave wine and above all Bristol Milk’.

The poet and satirist Alexander Pope, writing about the docks in 1739, said: ‘In the middle of the street, as far as you can see, hundreds of ships, their masts as thick as they can stand by one another, which is the oddest and most surprising sight imaginable. The street is fuller of them than the Thames from London Bridge to Deptford.’

William Cobbett (1763–1835), farmer, politician and writer who travelled around southern England on horseback, said that Bristol was ‘a good and solid and wealthy city and people of plain and good manners, private virtue and public spirit united … as to the seat of the city and its environs, it surpasses all I ever saw’. Cobbett also wrote: ‘A great commercial city in the midst of cornfields, meadows and woods.’

Besides writing the popular novel Robinson Crusoe, Daniel Defoe was the author of many other books, including Tour Through the Whole Island of Great Britain in which he said of Bristol: ‘The greatest, the richest and the best port of trade in Great Britain, London only excepted.’ He also said: ‘There are no less than fifteen glass houses in Bristol which is more than there are in the city of London; they have indeed a very great experience of glass bottles, sending them fill’d with beer, cyder and wine to the West Indies, much more than goes to London.’

Horace Walpole, English art historian, man of letters and politician, was rather damning about the city. In 1776 he wrote: ‘I did go to Bristol, the dirtiest great shop I ever saw, with so foul a river that had I seen the least appearance of cleanliness I should have concluded they washed all their linen in it.’

Bristol-born Robert Southey, who was Poet Laureate from 1813 until his death thirty years later, wrote: ‘The beautiful vale of Ashton is the place of all others which I remember with most feeling.’ He may have been biased for some of his relatives are buried in the churchyard at Long Ashton.

In 1799 Lady Hesketh, who is buried in Bristol Cathedral, wrote: ‘The Bristol people have done all in their power to ruin the rural beauties of Clifton Hill by the number of abominable buildings they have erected all over it … but it is always preferable to any other place.’

‘Everyone stays at home and one never sees a fashionable man in the street’ – Eugenie Montijo, later to become Empress of France, speaking about her time in Clifton when she was sent to a finishing school on Royal York Crescent in 1837.

Travel writer H.V. Morton, in his book In Search of England, published in 1927, said: ‘Nothing to see in Bristol! There is too much to see there! I could stay for a month and write you a different story every day.’ He went on: ‘My trouble in Bristol is that I cannot leave the byways. It is a city as fascinating as London; and in the same unselfconscious way.’ He also wrote: ‘Ships come right into Bristol town … and the men of Bristol think nothing of it. They have been accustomed to this disturbing sight for over nine centuries.’

The Victorian engineer Isambard Kingdom Brunel, who did so much to change the face of Bristol, said that the people who backed his many projects were ‘The spirited merchants of Bristol’.

In her novel Evelina, the writer and diarist Fanny Burney (1752–1840) has her heroine saying of Hotwells: ‘A most delightful spot; the prospect is beautiful, the air pure and the water very favourable to invalids.’

J.B. Priestly, writer and broadcaster, wrote in 1933: ‘What is admirable about Bristol is that it is both old and alive, and not one of your museum pieces, living on tourists and the sale of bogus antiques.’

Poet Laureate Sir John Betjeman states: ‘Bristol is the most beautiful, interesting and distinguished city in England.’ He also said: ‘Bristol’s biggest surprise is Clifton, a sort of Bath consisting of Regency crescents and terraces overlooking the Avon Gorge to the blue hills of Somerset’ and …

‘There is no city in England with so much charm.’

‘The hotel would be a monster and utterly unsuitable for the site. The Avon Gorge is a natural piece of unique scenery’ – Sir John Betjeman, speaking at a public inquiry in Bristol in 1971 about plans for a multi-storey hotel to be built on the rock face next to the Clifton Suspension Bridge. After studying the inspector’s report the then Environment Minister, Peter Walker, rejected the proposals for a hotel.

A Sunday Times survey published in 2014 said that the best city in the country to live in was Bristol. The paper told its readers: ‘It offers bucket-loads of history and heritage from Brunel to Banksy, along with a great choice of housing, fantastic transport links (which are set to get even better following a rail upgrade in 2017 that will see journey times to London cut to eighty minutes) and a real sense of growing economic importance and creative energy.’

2

WELCOME TO QUIRKY BRISTOL

SOFAS ON THE STREET CORNERS

Bristol was the first place in the United Kingdom to ban traffic from its city-centre streets on the first Sunday of each summer month to turn them into a playground for families. The traffic-free streets became packed with food stalls, stilt walkers, jugglers, dancers, musicians and the like. Sofas were even provided for people to slump in. It is all part of a ‘Make Sunday Special’ scheme introduced by the Mayor of Bristol.

In May 2014, nearly 100,000 people signed up for the chance to get a free ‘ticket to slide’, sliding down a 300ft-long water chute that had been specially installed on Park Street in the centre of the city for a ‘Make Sunday Special’ event. Some of those wanting to traverse the chute on a lilo lived in Abu Dhabi but were prepared to fly to Bristol for an experience that lasted less than thirty seconds. In the event only 360 people were lucky enough to get a ticket through a ballot.

GOING IT ALONE

You won’t find the Peoples’ Republic of Stokes Croft on any map or listed in any street directory by that description. This bohemian inner-city area of Stokes Croft was given that name by community activists in 2007 – and it has stuck ever since – to promote the city’s alternative cultural quarter with its independent shops, workers’ co-ops and extensive street art.

Bristol was one of the eleven largest cities in England to hold a referendum in 2012 to discover whether or not the electorate wanted a Directly Elected Mayor. The holder of this new office would provide political leadership and replace the existing council leaders. In the event, Bristol was the only city to vote in favour of having a mayor. In the referendum 41,032 people ticked the ‘Yes’ box on their ballot paper while 35,880 were against. Later the same year fifteen candidates stood in the election for a Directly Elected Mayor. George Ferguson, an architect known for his trademark red trousers, who stood as an independent candidate, won the poll with 37,353 votes. The Labour Party candidate came second with 31,259 votes. There was a turnout of 28 per cent of the electorate.

ANIMAL TRAILS

Sixty-one multi-coloured, life-size, fibreglass gorillas were installed on the streets and parks of Bristol in the summer of 2011 and people were challenged to track them all down. The gorilla trail was organised by Bristol Zoo to mark its 175th anniversary. The sculptures were later sold at an auction, which raised £427,000 for gorilla conservation work and the Bristol Royal Hospital for Children.

Eighty brightly painted sculptures of Gromit the dog created by Aardman Animation Films of Bristol took over the city’s streets during the summer of 2013 for the Gromit Unleashed trail. These sculptures also went under the auctioneer’s hammer and raised £2.3 million for the Children’s Hospital.

Giant individually designed sculptures of Shaun the Sheep, a creation of Aardman Films, took to the streets and parks of Bristol and London in the summer of 2015. The sixty sculptures in each city were decorated by celebrities and artists to raise funds for sick children. Shaun was voted the nation’s all-time favourite BBC children’s television character in 2014.

RETAIL THERAPY

Gloucester Road, part of the A38 running through north Bristol, has the largest number of independent traders, from fashion emporiums to grocers and from record shops to ironmongers, on any one road in the United Kingdom.

St Nicholas covered market in Bristol’s ‘Old Quarter’ is the oldest market in the city. It dates back to 1743 and has the largest collection of independent traders under one roof in Bristol.

The fifteenth-century Christmas Steps, which rises from Host Street to Colston Street, must be the city’s quirkiest shopping area. Small independently run shops line each side of the forty-nine steps, selling everything from handmade shoes to fish and chips.

KEEPING IT CLEAN

A Bristol Corporation deed of 1533 ratified the right of washerwomen to dry their clothing and linen by stretching it across the bushes on Brandon Hill Park. Carpet beating was also allowed on the park but only during certain hours.

MAYORAL MOMENTS

Robert Ricart, who was Town Clerk in the fifteenth century, recorded in his ‘Maire’s Kalendar’ that one of his duties was to provide dice for the mayor and councillors when they were killing time waiting for people to arrive.

Alderman Thomas Proctor, who built a twenty-one-room mansion on the edge of Clifton Downs for himself and his wife, later gave it away to the city council in 1874. His unusual gift included fixtures and fittings along with a £500 cheque for repairs and decorations. Since then Mr Proctor’s former home has been known as the Mansion House. It has become the official residence and office of the Lord Mayor during his or her year of office. Bristol is one of the few cities outside London that has a Mansion House for its leading citizen.

Bristol has had a mayor since 1216 and a Lord Mayor since 1899 following an announcement by Queen Victoria on her birthday that the city should have this honour. The queen also granted the Lord Mayor the right to be styled as ‘the Right Honourable’.

Instead of knighting Councillor Herbert Ashman, the first Lord Mayor of Bristol, at Buckingham Palace, Queen Victoria bestowed the honour on him in 1899 outside the Council House then in Corn Street. Her Majesty dubbed Mr Ashman on the shoulder with a borrowed sword – without even leaving her horse-drawn landau.

When he was mayor, Councillor William Proctor Baker proved he had a head for heights by laying the capstone of the spire of St Mary Redcliffe church, which was nearly 300ft above street level. He was hoisted part of the way up the spire in a makeshift lift made of boards, ropes and cloth and climbed the rest. He then tapped the 1-ton capstone into place, which was the final act of the restoration of St Mary Redcliffe in 1872. Part of the church’s spire had crashed across the nave during a violent thunder and lightning storm 426 years earlier.

During his term of office as Lord Mayor in 2012, Councillor Peter Main helped celebrate the fortieth anniversary of Dean Field Studies Centre, which is run by the city council. Apart from unveiling the obligatory plaque, Mr Main in his full mayoral robes took a quick trip down a zip wire. However, he had to swap his ceremonial feathered tricorn hat for a hard helmet for safety reasons.

WANT TO GET AHEAD? WEAR A HAT

The City Swordbearer, who precedes the Lord Mayor in procession, is the only person whose head can be covered in the presence of royalty. This is because the sword is so heavy it needs two hands to carry it. The Swordbearer’s role dates back to 1373 and the headgear from Elizabethan times. It is formally known as the Cap of Maintenance – a furry Cossack-style affair – which wouldn’t look out of place in a Gilbert and Sullivan opera.

THE TAXPAYER’S CHURCH

St Mark’s chapel, better known as the Lord Mayor’s chapel, is the only place of worship in England owned and maintained by a local authority, or perhaps more accurately the council taxpayers. Bristol Corporation bought the chapel on College Green in 1541 for £1,000 from Henry VIII. However, councillors continued to worship at Bristol Cathedral until 1722 when they fell out with the Dean and Chapter. They then decided to use St Mark’s; after all they owned it. The mayor and councillors still worship at the chapel on special occasions.

THE WORLD’S SMALLEST UNIVERSITY

What can easily claim to be the smallest university in the country, if not the world, is housed in a bungalow on the large disadvantaged Withywood estate, in south Bristol. Since retired teacher Anton Bantock opened the University of Withywood in 1987 many hundreds of people have attended lectures at his home given by visiting speakers on a variety of subjects. This seat of learning also organises walks, exhibitions and musical performances for its students. The university, which is recognised as a registered charity, even has its own motto: Ad Altiora Per Collegium Withywoodiense, which translates as ‘To higher things through Withywood’.

BRISTOL SAYINGS

‘All shipshape and Bristol Fashion’ means that everything has been stowed and the ship is ready to go to sea. It derives from the Port of Bristol’s reputation for efficiency in the days of sail.

‘Pay on the Nail’ originates from the four brass pillars, or Bristol Nails, that have stood outside the Exchange in Corn Street since the sixteenth century. It was on these pillars that merchants settled their business deals with one another. A raised rim around the edge of each one prevents coins from rolling off and dropping on to the pavement.

‘Happy as a sand boy’ originated from the Ostrich Inn at Bathurst Basin, according to an advertising card for the pub which dates back to 1745. Boys were employed to collect sand that was shipped into the nearby docks to cover the floors of the bar. They were rewarded with jugs of ale, so hence the old saying.

A visitor to the city could be forgiven for wanting an interpreter to translate the Bristol dialect. Some of the phrases commonly used by Bristolians include:

‘Where’s that to?’ – Where is it?

‘Gert lush’ – Very good.

‘Ark at ee’ – Look at him.

‘Cheers drive’ – Thanks driver. A term normally used by passengers when getting off a bus.

‘Bemmie’ – This is a shortened form of Bedminster, a suburb in south Bristol.

‘Alright my luvver?’ – How are you?

‘Ow bist?’ – How are you?

HIGH FLIERS

If you see a ‘dog’ floating skywards don’t be alarmed. The ‘dog’ will be a specially shaped hot-air balloon taking part in the International Balloon Fiesta at Ashton Court. More than 120 hot-air balloons of all shape and sizes, from a house to the FA Cup, lift off in a series of mass ascents during the event each August. The fiesta – the largest of its kind in Europe – attracts balloonists from all over the world and half a million spectators. Balloon maker Don Cameron and some friends started the fiesta in 1979 with just twenty-seven balloonists taking part and it’s been running every year since.

‘BRITAIN’S UGLIEST POP GROUP’

The Rolling Stones may well have been the latest pop music sensation in the summer of 1964 but the staff at the Grand Hotel, Broad Street, were certainly not impressed. The tail-coated head waiter in the hotel’s dining room refused to serve the rock group because they were wearing sweatshirts and jeans instead of jackets and ties. The Rolling Stones, who were playing at a concert in the nearby Colston Hall, took their custom to a nearby curry house. The incident made the front pages of the national newspapers, with the Daily Express describing the ‘Stones’ as the ‘ugliest group in Britain’.

A CURE FOR ALL ILLS?

A newspaper announcement in 1799 stated that the grandly named Pneumatic Institution run by Dr Thomas Beddoes had opened in Dowry Square, Hotwells. It was here that Dr Beddoes experimented with the idea that gases produced from both ends of a cow might cure tuberculosis. The newspaper also claimed that the Institution could treat ‘incurable diseases including consumption, dropsy and obstinate venereal complaints’. Beddoes employed a young Humphrey (later Sir) Davy who discovered the anaesthetic properties of nitrous oxide or laughing gas. He used the gas as a recreational drug with his newfound friends the poets Coleridge and Southey.

WALKING BY WATER

Perhaps one of the quirkiest events in the Bristol calendar is the St Mary Redcliffe Pipe Walk, which sees the vicar and his parishioners picking their way around allotments, trekking though pastureland and even peering down manholes. They are following the route of a water supply that Lord Robert de Berkeley, Lord of the Manor of Bedminster, gave to Redcliffe parish in 1190. The water flowed from a hilltop spring at Knowle to the church, a distance of just over 2 miles. The walk commemorates Lord Robert’s gift and enables the church to lay claim to certain endowments. It’s up to the vicar to check that the pipe is still there, hence the lifting of manhole covers.

A ROAD THAT DOES NOT OFFICIALLY EXIST

Generations of Bristolians have referred to the top of Whiteladies Road as Blackboy Hill yet it has never been listed as such in well-respected street directories, guides or maps. You won’t find any Blackboy Hill street nameplates, either. Nor is it an official postal address. The name probably came from the Blackboy Inn that once straddled the top of Whiteladies Road before being demolished in 1874 for road widening. Another pub in the area changed its name in 1988 to perpetuate the Blackboy name. Whiteladies Road recalls a small thatched pub of that name which some time ago stood near the junction of Oakfield Road.

SOME UNUSUAL TALES OF ROYALTY

After being defeated at the Battle of Worcester in 1651, the future King Charles II tried to escape the Roundhead soldiers and headed west. He stayed at Leigh Court at Abbots Leigh near Bristol, the home of George Norton, disguised as a servant. Although the butler recognised the prince he passed him off as the kitchen boy. After leaving Leigh Court the prince made his way to Dorset and then on to France. When he ascended to the throne Charles II thanked George Norton for his hospitality by making him a knight.

One of the strangest requests ever received by the ‘city fathers’ came from the king in September 1664. He asked for 1,500 pairs of shoes and stockings to clothe his army. To fund this request it was decided that a weekly levy already imposed on householders for maintaining the garrison should be doubled for a month.

Protocol was fearlessly flouted by a boy at Clifton College who asked for the autograph of Queen Victoria’s daughter, Princess Louise. A courtier from the royal household replied to his request: ‘Dear Master Allen, Members of the Royal Family do not give their autographs to strangers. However, HRH Prince Louise has kindly made an exception in your favour. You are urged not to tell your school fellows the Princess has given it you, or I may receive other applications which I should only be obliged to refuse.’

The first royal visit to Clifton College must have been something of an embarrassment for all concerned. Prince Albert Victor, second in line to the throne, was in Bristol to unveil a statute of his grandmother, Queen Victoria, on College Green. He had been persuaded to pass by the college and meet some of the staff at the gates. In the event it rained and the prince arrived late. He moved on after hearing only the start of a formal welcome being read to him.

A HIDDEN ROYAL MEMORIAL

What is believed to be the only public memorial to Princess Charlotte of Wales and Saxe Coburg is virtually hidden away in the grounds of a former convalescent hospital at Redland. It takes the form of an obelisk and was commissioned by a local businessman, though it’s not known why. The princess, who died aged 21 when giving birth to a stillborn son in 1817, is buried in St George’s chapel, Windsor.

BRISTOL’S OWN LEANING TOWER

Bristol’s answer to the leaning tower of Pisa was almost demolished in the Second World War – not by bombs but by concerned soldiers. They were unaware that the 114ft-high tower of Temple church in Victoria Street had been leaning at a precarious angle – almost 5ft out of true – since the fourteenth century. Fearing that a bomb had caused the tower to lean and further serious damage might be caused, members of the Royal Engineers wanted to pull it down. However, the entreaties of local people stopped them and saved the landmark from demolition. The church was built by the Knights Templar in the twelfth century on marshy land which probably accounts for its leaning tower.

BUILDING CURIOSITIES

It seems that the builders of Royal York Crescent in Clifton were superstitious. They did not include a number thirteen in the crescent of forty-six houses. Instead they built a 12a. Work on the crescent started in 1750 but the bankruptcy of the developer brought it to a stop. The government bought the ground and unfinished section of the crescent, intending to build barracks. Local opposition frustrated this plan and the crescent was completed in 1820 as originally envisaged.

The Black Castle at Brislington is a sham castle built in 1764 that is now a public house that even has a chapel in one of its turrets. It was originally offices and stables built for William Reeves with black slag from his foundry. On a visit to Bristol in 1766 the writer Horace Walpole described the Black Castle as a ‘large Gothic building, coal black and striped with white. I took it for the Devil’s Cathedral’.

Bristol City Council’s administrative headquarters, known as the Council House until November 2012 but since then as City Hall, took longer to build than the Parthenon. The foundation stone was laid in June 1938 but the Second World War interrupted the work. It was not until April 1956 that the curved building was officially opened by the queen.

The gilded unicorns that stand at each end of the roof of City Hall took council officers by surprise when they were installed, for no one knew who had ordered them and the unicorns did not appear in the list of building specifications. When the architect returned from holiday he explained that the unicorns cost £2,400 whereas ornamental ridging along the length of the roof would have cost £600 more.

Prefabricated homes, which were built as a short-term fix for a post-war housing shortage, were only meant to last ten years at the most. However, as fifteen sites around Bristol testify, they were still being lived in sixty years later. Their end came when the city council completed a ten-year replacement scheme in 2014. The prefabs were built by the Bristol Aeroplane Company from aluminium that had been salvaged from crashed aircraft. A prefab at Shirehampton was the first to be completed and occupied in 1945.

THREE COLOURFUL CHARACTERS