The Little Book of Somerset E-Book

Maurice Fells

• Herausgeber: The History Press
• Kategorie: Sachliteratur, Reportagen, Biografien
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 219

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2018

Beschreibung

Did you know? - The town of Wincanton is twinned with a place that does not exist. - William Gibbs of Tyntesfield House made his fortune by importing bird droppings from Peru. - A song by 'Scrumpy and Western' singer Adge Cutler was banned by the BBC for being too raunchy. - Nine villages in Somerset are known as the 'Thankful Villages'. From seaside to countryside and villages to towns, Somerset is a county where it's difficult to separate history and mystery. This fast-paced, fact-packed compendium of places, people and trivia reveals all sorts of answers to questions you might have wondered about – and some you didn't. The facts, stats and anecdotes will surprise even those familiar with this beautiful and historic county.

Leseprobe

First published 2018

This paperback edition published 2022

The History Press

97 St George’s Place, Cheltenham,

Gloucestershire, GL50 3QB

www.thehistorypress.co.uk

© Maurice Fells, 2018

The right of Maurice Fells to be identified as the Author of this work has been asserted in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents Act 1988.

All rights reserved. No part of this book may be reprinted or reproduced or utilised in any form or by any electronic, mechanical or other means, now known or hereafter invented, including photocopying and recording, or in any information storage or retrieval system, without the permission in writing from the Publishers.

British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data.

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

ISBN 978 0 7509 9025 7

Typesetting and origination by The History Press

Printed and bound in Great Britain by TJ Books Limited, Padstow

eBook converted by Geethik Technologies

CONTENTS

Introduction

Acknowledgements

About the Author

What they Say about Somerset

  1 Around the County

  2 Beside the Seaside

  3 History, Mystery, Myth and Legend

  4 They Put Somerset on the Map

  5 Somerset Show Business

  6 Castles, Mansions, Follies and Monuments

  7 Literary Somerset

  8 Film, Stage, Radio and Television File

  9 The Natural World

10 Traditionally Somerset

11 Food and Drink

12 The Working Life – Past and Present

13 Law and Order

14 Military Matters

15 Sport

INTRODUCTION

Somerset is a remarkable county. It is a place where history, mystery, myths and legends abound. It also has a rich literary heritage evocative of ‘Old England’. The Romantic poets William Wordsworth and Samuel Taylor Coleridge lived for a while in Nether Stowey, Alfoxden and Porlock. It is said that while walking the coastal paths in west Somerset they were inspired to write some of their best-known poetry. There is a part of Exmoor that will always be known as ‘Lorna Doone’ country after the book of that name written by R.D. Blackmore. Meanwhile, Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years and set much of her work in the city. Bath also inspired Mary Shelley to complete her great work, Frankenstein. Then there was the writer Evelyn Waugh, who spent the last years of his life in Combe Florey. Such was his love for Somerset that the American poet T.S. Eliot not only immortalised the village of East Coker in one of his poems but also left instructions for his ashes to be interred in the local church.

Many of the myths and legends are focused around the Somerset Levels. Did Joseph of Arithamea bury the Holy Grail at Glastonbury? Are King Arthur and his queen buried here and did King Alfred the Great really burn the cakes at nearby Athelney? True or false, the stories have helped to build Somerset’s most unusual character.

Somerset is also a county of marshland, ancient towns and villages, seaside resorts, historic caves, Roman baths and verdant rolling hills. An early twentieth-century lyricist was so inspired by the hills that he wrote a song about them. Somerset is, of course, the home of Cheddar cheese and cider. The latter, originally produced in small sheds on farms all over the county, was once given to farm labourers as part of their wages. Today, cider-making has become a state-of-the-art multi-million pound industry, with one farm in the county sending out some 4 million pints a year to pubs, clubs and supermarkets all over the country. Perhaps sales were boosted by Adge Cutler and the Wurzels, who introduced the nation to their ‘Scrumpy and Western’ style of music. One of their records, ‘I Am a Cider Drinker’, made the number three spot in the record charts.

But where does Somerset begin and end? Over the years there have been changes to the county’s boundaries, none of which have pleased the locals. People living here have fierce local pride about their traditional and historic county. Indeed, there were massive protests in the 1970s when parts of it were transferred by central government into a newly formed county with the unoriginal and uninspiring name of Avon. There were more boundary changes twenty years later when Avon was abolished and the area was split into new unitary authorities. All these changes make the distinction between historic and administrative divisions even more confusing. Many people still talk of ‘old Somerset’ as their traditional home. For the purposes of this book I have joined them. The Little Book of Somerset takes in the magnificent spa city of Bath in the east, goes down to Exmoor in the west, across to Chard, the most southerly town in the county, and up to Portishead, its most northerly point sitting on the edge of the Severn Estuary. This is what the civil servants call the ‘ceremonial county’.

Such a vast area has produced many heroes and heroines who have left us a variety of legacies. Turn these pages and you will find a truly extraordinary explorer, a creator of artificial limbs and a really enterprising entrepreneur who turned a military camp into the first of a national chain of holiday centres. Alongside their stories are many fascinating, maybe frivolous and sometimes bizarre facts. For example, if you don’t know what egg shackling is then this book will tell you.

However, The Little Book of Somerset does not set out to be a dusty academic tome or a definitive or chronological history of the county. I have left others to do that. This is simply a compendium of interesting facts from both the past and present. I hope that they will interest newcomers to the county, holidaymakers and even those born and bred in Somerset who thought they really knew their county.

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

To put this book together I trawled through a variety of sources. I started by searching through my own archive of press releases, house magazines, pamphlets and other publicity material issued by old established firms and organisations of long ago, some now defunct. I accumulated this material through working as a journalist for West Country radio, television stations and newspapers. In the course of my work, I have met some of the people who appear on the following pages while researching them or the organisations with which they are closely connected. The librarians working in the reference sections of local public libraries have been extremely helpful, too. Local knowledge and my curiosity about anything West Country has also played a big part in putting together this book.

Various people have suggested ideas that were worth following up and I wish to thank them for their help. One of them was a good friend, Nigel Dando, who was once a district reporter in Frome for an evening newspaper and was most helpful in sharing with me his knowledge of the area and its people. I am greatly indebted to Janet and Trevor Naylor for their many helpful suggestions, especially regarding natural history. It is fair to say that without their help there could be big gaps in this book. However, any mistakes are mine, for which I apologise.

My thanks must also go to Nicola Guy at the History Press for asking me if I would like to write this title, and to the team who designed and laid out the following pages to make it such an attractive book.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Maurice Fells has long had a passionate interest in the history of the West Country, especially that of his native Bristol. He loves delving into old newspapers – some of them published well over 100 years ago – looking for any scrap of information about how our predecessors lived and worked, and their environment. He is a journalist by profession and has held key editorial posts in regional newspapers, radio and television newsrooms. Maurice is a familiar voice on BBC Radio Bristol talking about local history matters. In addition to this book he has written Clifton History You Can See, The A-Z of Curious Bristol, The Little Book of Bristol and Bristol Plaques, all published by The History Press.

WHAT THEY SAY ABOUT SOMERSET

Clevedon has the most character, the widest diversity of scenery, and the fewest really hideous buildings. It has been saved by being on the road to nowhere.

Sir John Betjeman, Poet Laureate from 1972–84

On the centenary of the town’s pier, John Betjeman said: ‘Long live Clevedon as a complete town, which it would not be if it ever lost its pier.’

The novelist and poet Sylvia Townsend Warner wrote: ‘One cannot travel through Somerset without feeling that one is being handed on from one set of hills to another.’

After visiting the north Somerset village of Pill on horseback, John Wesley, founder of Methodism, wrote in his journal: ‘I rode to Pill, a place famous from generation to generation for stupid, brutal, abandoned wickedness.’

In his book A Tour Thro the Whole Island of Great Britain and Wales, Daniel Defoe described Minehead as being ‘the best port and safest harbour on this side of all these counties’. In Yeovil, Defoe noted the town’s industry: ‘This is a market town of good resort; and some clothing carried on or near it, but not much. Its main manufacture at this time is the making of gloves.’

Defoe described the villagers of Cheddar as ‘cowkeepers’ and went on to say that the local cheese was ‘the best cheese that England affords, if not the whole world’.

In her book Through England on a Side Saddle in the Time of William and Mary, travel writer Celia Fiennes wrote of the Roman baths in Bath: ‘The Ladies go into the bath with garments made of fine yellow canvas, which is stiff and made large with great sleeves like a parson’s gown; the water fills it up so that it is borne off so that your shape be not seen.’

When the diarist Samuel Pepys visited the Roman baths he wrote: ‘They are not so large as I expected, but yet pleasant; and the town most of stone and clean, though the streets generally narrow.’

In an autobiography that he called Boy: Tales of Childhood, the children’s writer Roald Dahl, who went to school in Weston-super-Mare in 1925, described the town as a ‘slightly seedy seaside resort’. Despite his unfavourable comment, the town unveiled a blue plaque in 2018 commemorating Dahl’s time in Weston.

Robert Southey, who was Poet Laureate from 1813 until his death in 1843, wrote of Ashton: ‘The beautiful vale of Ashton, the place of all others which I remember with most feeling.’ His mother’s family lived in Long Ashton for generations and some of his relations are buried in the churchyard.

The prolific American writer John Steinbeck regarded the time he spent in Somerset as some of the happiest days of his life. He wrote: ‘Time loses all its meaning. The peace I have dreamed about is here, a real thing: thick as a stone and feelable and something for your hands.’

1

AROUND THE COUNTY

WHAT’S IN A NAME?

Quite a lot, it seems, if you live in Wincanton. Believe it or not this small town – its population is under 6,000 – in south Somerset is twinned with a place that does not exist. Its ‘twinning’ partner, Ankh Morpork, is a fictional city created by the author Sir Terry Pratchett in his comic fantasy Discworld series. Wincanton and Ankh Morpork have been twinned since 2002. The late Sir Terry had a close relationship with Wincanton and was in the town seven years later to unveil road names at a new housing development. His books had inspired the street names Peach Pie Street and Treacle Mine Road.

However, like many other towns and cities across the country, Wincanton is officially twinned with places that do exist on terra firma. It linked up in 1975 with the French towns Gennes and Les Rosiers. Then in 1991 another twinning arrangement was made – this time with the German town, Lahnau.

How Somerset May Have Got Its Name

In 658 the Saxons defeated the Romano–Celtic people and captured eastern Somerset. The Saxons gave it the name Summertun, and it seems to have been quite an important village. In 949 the Witan, a kind of parliament, met at Somerton. Around 1270 the county courts and the county jail moved there. For a short time Somerton was the county town of Somerset. It’s said that the county’s name comes from the Anglo–Saxon Sumorsaete, meaning ‘land of the summer people’. In the past people could only settle there in the summer as in winter the land was flooded.

The Curry Villages

Some villages have ‘Curry’ as part of their name, as in Curry Rivel, Curry Mallet and North Curry. However, this has nothing to do with the spicy meal. There are several theories as to its origin. One is that ‘Curry’ comes from the Celtic word ‘crwy’, meaning ‘boundary’. Another explanation is that Curry is a corruption of St Cyrig, a pre-Saxon Celtic bishop.

Town’s ‘Royal’ Name

The market town of Chard – the most southerly town in the county – takes its name from Cerdic, who was the first King of Wessex. Chard has its roots deeply buried in Saxon times and was the ancient capital of the kingdom of Wessex.

Somerset Overseas

There are thirty-six places in the world with the name Somerset. Twenty-three of them are in America. Other ‘Somersets’ can be found in Guyana, Jamaica, Australia, South Africa and Bermuda.

UNESCO Honour

Bath is one of the two cities in the county of Somerset. In 1987 it was inscribed by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. It is unusual for an entire city to be given this honour. UNESCO says that such sites are ‘places of outstanding universal value to the whole of humanity’. The phrase ‘outstanding universal value’ means cultural and/or natural significance. UNESCO added the city of Bath as a ‘cultural site’ to its list because of its Roman remains, eighteenth-century architecture, eighteenth-century town planning, its social setting, hot springs and landscape setting. Famous World Heritage Sites include the Taj Mahal, pyramids of Giza, the Great Wall of China and the Grand Canyon.

THE ROMANS WERE HERE

On the authority of the future emperor Vespasian, the Second Legion Augusta invaded Somerset from the south-east in AD 47. The county remained part of the Roman Empire until around AD 409, when the Roman occupation of Britain came to an end.

Natural thermal springs beneath the city of Bath produce 1,170,000 litres of hot spring water every day. Bath has been a spa destination since the Romans built their baths here in AD 70 using water from the springs. These are the only hot springs in Britain.

In April 2018 permission was given by Bath and North East Somerset Council for heat exchangers to be installed in the Roman Baths to convert heat from the underground springs into renewable energy. The energy recovered from the water will be used to provide under-floor heating for Bath Abbey and surrounding buildings.

The Romans had their own name for Bath, calling it Aquae Sulis – Aquae meaning water and Sulis being the name of the Goddess of the hot springs at Bath.

Bathing in the baths used to be a common sight but is no longer allowed. All the same, the Great Bath is regularly drained of its 250,000 litres of thermal waters so that a team of cleaners can remove sludge and algae from its Roman floor. When the Great Bath is full the water is just over 5ft deep.

A record number of 1,123,633 people visited the Roman Baths in the year 2016–17.

COUNTY ON THE MOVE

Large chunks of Somerset, including the whole of Bath, were taken out of the county on 1 April 1974 and put into a newly created county called Avon. Despite the date this was no April Fool’s Day joke but part of local government boundary changes made by Whitehall. Avon became the county that people either loved or loathed, even before it officially came into existence. The protests were numerous. Letters to politicians, petitions signed by thousands of people and even specially written protest songs calling for the abolition of Avon made the headlines.

Twenty-two years later – also on 1 April – the county of Avon was abolished. In another major local government shake-up, Whitehall this time created what is known as the ceremonial county of Somerset. This consists of the district council areas of West Somerset, South Somerset, Taunton Deane, Mendip and Sedgemoor. Two new unitary authorities were also created – North Somerset, which takes in Weston-super-Mare and Clevedon, and Bath & North East Somerset, commonly referred to by the voters as BANES.

However, Avon is a name that refuses to die, even though the county was abolished in 1996. The name lives on in the titles of Avon and Somerset Police, Avon Coroner’s Court, Avon Fire and Rescue Service, Avon Wildlife Trust and a host of other organisations.

A FLAG FOR SOMERSET

The Somerset flag depicts the traditional dragon emblem of the county. It has featured on the county council’s coat of arms for more than 100 years. However, it is ultimately derived from the banners borne by Alfred the Great and his kinsmen during the Viking Wars, which were variously described as bearing red or gold dragons or wyverns. On the flag a red dragon appears against a yellow background.

TOPOGRAPHY

Somerset is sandwiched between Wiltshire to the east, Dorset to the south-east, and Devon to the south-west, while Bristol provides part of its northern boundary. The 40-mile coastline of the Bristol Channel and Severn Estuary also forms part of the north-west and south-west borders.

Somerset covers an area of 4,171 square kilometres; this makes it England’s seventh biggest county by area.

The county is home to two cities – Bath and Wells – and more than 400 villages, including Beardly Batch, Beer Crocombe, Charlton Mackrell, Chedzoy, Clapton in Gordano, Compton Pauncefoot, Huish Episcopi, Keinton Mandeville, Nempnett Thrubwell, Queen Camel, Preston Plucknett and Vobster. There are also thirty small towns in the county.

At an altitude of 413ft, Wiveliscombe (in the south of the county) is the highest town in Somerset.

The last census in 2011 showed that the total population of the ceremonial county of Somerset was 948,900.

THE COUNTY TOWN

The south Somerset town of Somerton describes itself as the ‘Ancient Royal Town of Wessex’. At one time it was the county town of Somerset but that status has been held by Taunton since 1336. Taunton is home to the administrative headquarters of the county council, which has fifty-five members and is based at County Hall. The town also hosts 40 Commando, Royal Marines; the United Kingdom Hydrographic Office; and the headquarters of Somerset County Cricket Club.

TOP TOWN

The town of Frome, with a population of about 30,000, is the best place in which to live in the south-west of England, according to the Sunday Times survey for 2018. Factors from jobs, schools and broadband speed to culture, community spirit and local shops were all taken into account. The judges said they also noted The Compassionate Frome plan, which was set up five years ago by a local doctor to help people cope with ill health. It has resulted in 17 per cent fewer hospital admissions in the area. Frome was one of the largest towns in Somerset until the Industrial Revolution, and was larger than Bath from AD 950 until 1650.

HISTORY YOU CAN SEE

Somerset has 523 ancient monuments, 192 conservation areas, 41 parks and gardens, 36 English Heritage sites and 19 National Trust sites.

The county has 11,500 buildings listed as being of architectural or historical interest. In west Somerset the village of Dunster alone has more than 200 Grade I, Grade II and Grade II* listed buildings. They range from Dunster Castle and Gatehouse to the seventeenth-century octagonal Yarn Market in the middle of the High Street and the stone cottages almost hidden away in the side streets of Dunster.

One of the most unusual listed buildings is at Langport, where a perpendicular building commonly called the Hanging Chapel – more formally known as the Chantry Chapel of the Blessed Virgin Mary – sits on top of a thirteenth-century archway across the road. It has Grade I listed status.

More than 10 million documents relating to the history of the county are archived at the Somerset Heritage Centre at Norton Fitzwarren, on the edge of Taunton. The oldest document dates back to AD 705 and is a contract signed by the Saxon King Ine. The original records office was part of Wells Cathedral.

The village of Wedmore on the Somerset Levels has written itself into the history books, being the place where in AD 878 Alfred the Great made peace with the Danes, followed by nearly a fortnight of feasting and ceremonies at his palace.

THE ‘SECRET STONES’

Almost hidden away in the Chew Valley village of Stanton Drew is Somerset’s answer to Wiltshire’s Stonehenge. In a farmer’s field is the third largest complex of prehistoric standing stones in the country after Stonehenge and Avebury in Wiltshire. At Stanton Drew there are three circles of massive stones in the field and what is called a three-stone ‘cove’ stands in the back garden of the Druids Arms pub just along the road. The largest circle has twenty-six upright stones, although English Heritage believes there may have been up to thirty. On average the stones are each about 9ft high.

Dating The Stones

An English Heritage survey of the site in 1997 showed that the stones were just a part of a more elaborate complex. Archaeologists found that lying under the largest circle, which they call the Great Circle, are the remains of a complex pattern of buried pits, arranged in nine concentric rings within the stone circle, and further pits at the centre. Stone circles like these are believed to date back to the Late Neolithic and Early Bronze Age (around 3000–2000 BC). Although the stones are on private land, they are managed by English Heritage. Compared with Stonehenge and Avebury, the stones of Stanton Drew get very few visitors, possibly because of their seclusion.

THE SYMBOL OF A TOWNCALLED STREET

The roadside sign welcoming visitors to the market town of Street carries an illustration of an ichthyosaur because fossils of this reptile were found in a local quarry in 1884. Quarrying in Street was a major industry until the start of the twentieth century, when it declined as bricks were a cheaper option. As numerous ichthyosaur fossils were found in the quarries, Street Urban District Council adopted the marine reptile as its emblem. It’s still the symbol of Street. Many of the fossils excavated in Street are today displayed at the Natural History Museum in London.

THE SOMERSET HIGHWAY

There are 4,206 miles of road throughout Somerset, including the M5 motorway. The stretch of road with the highest traffic volume, perhaps unsurprisingly, is the M5 between Junctions 24 and 25, with more than 166 million vehicle miles per year.

The M5 Avonmouth Bridge carries traffic over the River Avon from Bristol into Somerset and vice versa. The eight-lane bridge cost £4.2 million, and when it was opened in May 1974 it meant the end of the Pill Ferry. For many centuries a ferry carried commuters from the north Somerset village of Pill across the River Avon to the Bristol suburb of Shirehampton, where a bus would take them into the centre of the city.

Porlock Hill, Exmoor, with a gradient approaching 1 in 4 (25 per cent), is part of the A39 and the steepest A-road in the United Kingdom. It connects Porlock to Lynmouth and Barnstaple in Devon. The hill is made up of chicanes, hairpin bends and straight sections of road.

The first maps of Somerset produced by the Ordnance Survey were published in 1802 with a scale of 1in to 1 mile.

SOMERSET IN FLOWER

The county flower of Somerset is the Cheddar Pink, which was discovered 300 years ago. It grows in several places in the Mendip Hills but nowhere more profusely than on the limestone rocks in the Cheddar Gorge. This scented pink grows up to a foot tall and normally flowers in June and July.

The first published mention of Cheddar Pinks is from 1696, when a Mr Brewer reported that the flower had been found ‘On Chidderoks in Somersetshire’. It is so rare – the Cheddar Pink is endemic to Cheddar – that it is a legally protected plant.

Vivary Park, a green oasis in Taunton town centre, gets its name from its use as a complex of fishponds known as a vivarium when the land was owned by the Bishop of Winchester in the twelfth century. It is the home of Taunton Flower Show – now known as the Chelsea of the West – which was first held here in 1851.

LAST OF ITS KIND

Stembridge Tower Mill is England’s last remaining thatched windmill. The four-storey tower, which was built in 1822, can be found in the village of High Ham near Langport. The mill was given a restoration by local craftsmen in 2000 costing £100,000. Although the sails do not turn with the wind, they are moved 90 degrees four times a year for maintenance. The tower is owned by the National Trust and is a Grade II* listed building. It was last used in 1910.

CELEBRATING THE COUNTY

Somerset Day is celebrated on 11 May with various events taking place all over the county. The organisation behind the special day, Passion for Somerset, is a not-for-profit Community Interest Company. It champions the single aim of celebrating Somerset and all that the county has to offer. The organisers say the celebrations are in honour of King Alfred the Great’s routing of the Vikings from his stronghold in the Somerset marshes in May 878.

Two of Somerset’s bridges – Pulteney Bridge over the River Avon at Bath, built in 1774, and the medieval 120ft-long Tarr Steps bridge, which crosses the River Barle in Exmoor – were featured on postage stamps issued by the Royal Mail in 1968. They were part of a set of ten stamps celebrating Britain’s engineering feats.

A booklet issued by the Great Western Railway in 1931 tempting holidaymakers to spend time in Somerset was titled ‘Smiling Somerset’. The county now attracts an annual 11.4 million day visitors and 1.8 million overnight visitors from within Great Britain.

Council records show that today more than 20,000 people throughout the county depend on tourism as their sole source of income.