Travels through Canada, and the United States of North America, Volume 1 E-Book

John Lambert

• Herausgeber: Jazzybee Verlag
• Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 554

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Beschreibung

The first volume is devoted to Canada, the second to the United States. Lambert landed at Quebec in October 1806. He furnishes a picture of the place of that date, and describes the social manners, dress and political events which were happening, with more than the usual care bestowed by the passing traveller. Much of his historical narrative, however, is not in accordance with fact, having been disproved by authentic document . From Quebec he visited Three Rivers and Montreal, and ascending Lake Champlain entered the United States. Lambert remained at Quebec from November 1806 to August 1807. He came back to Canada in 1808, in order to obtain a passage home. We learn from this work that at this date, both at Quebec and Montreal, the theatre had been established and performances periodically given. His account does not suggest that the acting was of a high order.

Leseprobe

Travels through Canada and the United States of North America

In the Years 1806, 1807 and 1808

VOLUME 1

JOHN LAMBERT

Travels through Canada and the United States of North America Volume 1, J. Lambert

Jazzybee Verlag Jürgen Beck

86450 Altenmünster, Loschberg 9

Deutschland

Printed by Bookwire, Voltastraße 1, 60486 Frankfurt/M.

ISBN: 9783988680259

www.jazzybee-verlag.de

[email protected]

CONTENTS:

PREFACE.. 1

INTRODUCTION TO THE FIRST EDITION.6

CHAPTER I. 9

CHAPTER II. 15

CHAPTER III. 22

CHAPTER IV. 30

CHAPTER V. 38

CHAPTER VI. 48

CHAPTER VII. 57

CHAPTER VIII. 68

CHAPTER IX. 74

CHAPTER X. 84

CHAPTER XI. 92

CHAPTER XII. 108

CHAPTER XIII. 121

CHAPTER XIV. 131

CHAPTER XV. 142

CHAPTER XVI. 151

CHAPTER XVII 158

CHAPTER XVIII. 167

CHAPTER XIX. 182

CHAPTER XX. 195

CHAPTER XXI. 201

CHAPTER XXII. 213

CHAPTER XXIII.218

CHAPTER XXIV. 235

PREFACE

The obstacles which for nearly three years have retarded the publication of a second edition of these Travels being now removed, the work is again presented to the Public with such emendations and improvements as opportunity and further information have rendered available. Its publication also at this particular moment will no doubt prove acceptable, as it affords a more recent account of those parts of North America which have lately been, or are likely to become, the seat of war, than any other work of the kind. It will enable the British reader to form a just opinion of the Canadian colonies, and to appreciate the character of the neighbouring enemies who threaten their existence. The various manners, customs, and dispositions of the several classes of inhabitants, both in Canada and the United States, are given with fidelity and truth; and the distinguishing features of society are depicted in their natural colours. It has been the author's object to describe things not as he had read or heard of them, but as he found them; and to exhibit to the European world the vast and rapid strides which the American continent is making towards wealth, power, and dominion.

Few men thirty years ago would have believed the United States capable of attaining such a rank among nations as she holds at this day; and yet it is nothing to that which might be expected from her, were her councils guided by wisdom. The two Canadas have also rapidly improved, but not in proportion to their neighbours, for colonies have not the vigour and spirit of independent states. The genius and disposition of the French Canadians, who form so large a proportion of the inhabitants of the Lower Province, are of so peculiar a nature that they require more than an ordinary attention on the part of their Government. Much, however, has certainly been accomplished in the management of a people so opposite to ourselves both in religious and political feelings. The wise and beneficial measures which have been pursued towards the Canadians reflect the highest credit on the British Government. French as well as English, Catholics as well as Protestants, are all unanimous in defence of their country. Every man throughout the Canadas is a soldier; and not one of them but has cheerfully attended the call to arms. This interesting fact cannot but convey to the mind the most pleasing sensations; since we find a nation of ancient foes both in politics and religion now united in the strictest friendship and vying with each other who shall display the greatest ardour in protecting that Government under which they have enjoyed so much happiness.

The character and manners of the Canadians, as well as the people of the United States, are even at this day but little understood by us; and the most vague notions and ideas are entertained both of the countries and their inhabitants. Prejudice and animosity have contributed to warp the judgement of some writers; while others, seeing everything with interested or partial eyes, have presented to the world the most flattering and deceptive accounts. The true character of a people, and particularly such a one as that of the United States, is of a very mixed nature, and can never be gathered from this or that remarkable feature. Manners and customs are all more or less subservient to local circumstances and situation and may perhaps carry a nationality about them; but the mind, the disposition, and humours of men are ascertained with difficulty. The Canadians have less variety in their composition, being separated into French and English, and partaking of the peculiarities incident to each of those nations. The inhabitants of the United States, on the contrary, are composed of people from almost every nation in Europe, though by far the greater part are descended of British parents. The establishment of their independence has created an evident change in their moral as well as political character; and from this no doubt arises that self-consequence and conceit in the young American, which gives such an air of rude licentious liberty to the mass of the people.

This kind of liberty frequently proves more tyrannical in society than the occasional abuse of magisterial power in a monarchical government; for a man in the American States, if he does not happen to be on the popular side of the question, is often afraid to speak his sentiments, lest he should be abused and ill-treated. These political animosities and arbitrary conduct extend even to courts of justice, where the Judges on the bench too often feel their contagious effects. It is such coarseness and vulgarity in their political disputes which render the American manners so repulsive to Europeans and have raised in their minds so great a prejudice against them. There is, nevertheless, much real worth in the American character. The United States can boast of having produced many excellent men, who have reflected the greatest credit on their country. Many at this day could be found who would prove distinguished ornaments in the councils of their nation, did not the virulence of party faction, and the intrigues of a foreign despot, render their services abortive.

The war with this country has been commenced on the part of the Americans in total disregard of their owns interests, as well as those of honour and humanity. They have voluntarily enrolled themselves in the cause of universal despotism, and, could they receive his assistance, would put themselves under the banners of one of the greatest tyrants that ever swayed a sceptre. Yet these people talk loudly of their republican liberty, -their love of freedom and virtue. If their Government possessed one spark of either, it would have lent itself to a better cause. The American name is degraded under such rulers. The whole people are stigmatized for the sottish ignorance of a few demagogues; and they are regarded by Europeans with distrust and contempt, for the paltry equivocation and shuffling which have marked their official character. Had a Washington or a Hamilton presided at this eventful period, how different would have been their conduct!

The misfortunes which have attended the American arms in Upper Canada will most likely contribute to check the pride and insolence of the populace, though it may not convince an ignorant Government of its errors. Their ill success on land was as unexpected by the generality of the Canadians, as their temporary success at sea was unlooked for by the British nation. The invasion and reduction of the Upper Province, at least, was considered almost inevitable, from the superior numbers which it was thought would be brought against it. Lower Canada might be overrun; but while Quebec and the navigation of the St. Lawrence remained to us, it was not likely that it would be conquered.

The ignorance and imbecility of the American Government have, however, completely baffled the expectations of all parties; for it cannot be imputed to the wisdom of its councils, that its naval captains fought with skill and bravery. Several of those officers were educated in the British navy and acquired their knowledge in a school which it not in the power of the United States to create. The generals and officers commanding their land forces have displayed everything but knowledge, conduct, and valour; and their troops, everything but discipline and subordination. One army, after a march of some hundred miles into the interior, turns short round, and runs home frightened at an enemy which it had never seen; and leaves its unfortunate commander behind it, lamenting his hard fate, and a troublesome diarrhea. Another sets out on a contrary direction; but, instead of pursuing its enemies, is employed in running after pigs and poultry, and plundering the houses of its countrymen. One officer and his corps are surrounded and taken by a handful of British; another surrenders a fort without firing a shot; and a third, who is no less a person than the commander-in-chief[1], winds up the campaign by going distracted!!

The province of Upper Canada, which has borne the chief brunt of this unnatural contest, was before the former war, nearly one vast wilderness: a few forts and small settlements for the convenience of the fur trade, were all that relieved the gloomy appearance of interminable forests and immense lakes. Since the conclusion of that war, the settlement and cultivation of Upper Canada have been an object of much attention on the part of the British Government. The Loyalists who were driven from the United States found here a comfortable asylum, and, together with numerous families who emigrated from Scotland, soon formed a respectable colony. The settlements were also considerably increased by the disbanded officers and soldiers who had served in America. These people received large grants of land from Government as a reward for their services; and either cultivated the spots themselves, or sold them to others who did. This zeal for peopling the Upper Province met with every encouragement from home, as it tended to form a strong barrier against any future invasion from the neighbouring States. Towns of considerable magnitude were in a few years constructed upon the sites of old forts and blockhouses; and the shouts of hunters and the Indian war hoop now gave place to the busy hum of trade and commerce. The Lakes became covered with ships instead of canoes; and every town resembled a seaport.

Kingston, York, Queenstown and Niagara, are the principal towns of the Upper Province. York, the capital, is situated on Lake Ontario, and has every prospect of becoming a city of much importance in that distant part of the world. It possesses great facilities for commerce and navigation. The Americans got possession of this town in the early part of the year, but were soon driven out of it by our troops. The vast lakes which cover so great a portion of this province, have brought into action the naval tactics of both powers, and these oceans of fresh water have proved extremely serviceable in contributing to the defence of Upper Canada. The Lakes Ontario, Erie, and Superior, are capable of receiving the largest fleets. One of them, viz. Superior, is upwards of 400 miles in length, and 1500 in circumference. The depth of these vast lakes in many places cannot be ascertained And the storms which frequently occur, are often more destructive than those which happen on the ocean.

The climate of Upper Canada is more mild and temperate than that of the Lower Province, and for that reason is preferred to the latter by most of the European emigrants who proceed to North America. Vegetation of all, kinds is most abundant; the harvests are extremely luxuriant; and by many people Upper Canada is termed the garden of North America. One unpleasant attendant on the warm climate of this province, is the prodigious number of noxious reptiles, particularly rattlesnakes, which infest the woods and islands everywhere: cultivation however is rapidly destroying them. The forests abound with animals of every kind capable of yielding and raiment: and the Indians, who reside here in great numbers, live almost entirely on the profits arising from the chase. The skins of the animals are sold for considerable sums, and the bodies serve them for food. The commerce of Upper Canada has within these few years increased amazingly; and large quantities of flour, potash, timber, and other native productions, have been exported to England. The English laws entirely prevail in this province. Direct taxation is but trifling; and any man with a moderate sum of money, has it in his power to acquire a very handsome competency. The manners, customs, and amusements of the people resemble those of the British nation; and though society is yet in its infancy, it is not wanting in those requisites that make it agreeable to strangers.

The Upper Province is indeed a valuable appendage to the British empire, and, in connection with Lower Canada, is essentially necessary to the maintenance of its power in North America. It is the magazine from whence this country derives considerable resources, in some of which it even excels the Lower Province. Without the latter, however, it would have commerce and productions to foreign parts. The St. Lawrence is the great outlet for Upper Canada. Quebec is the key of all our possessions in that quarter, and is the only port through which the productions of the two provinces can find their way to Europe. While we keep possession of this strong hold, which is now become almost a second Gibraltar, and have the pre-eminence on the lakes and rivers of Canada, neither province can be wrested from us.

These prefatory observations respecting Upper Canada have been called for by the events which have occurred since the publication of the first edition of these Travels. At that time the war was only in embryo, and no particular interest could attach to any place from military events. Since then it has acquired a greater interest by the operations of the war with the United States, though they have by no means been confined entirely to that province: Lake Champlain and the neighbourhood of Montreal have felt their influence: and it is probable that the Americans, finding themselves baffled in all their attempts to subjugate the Upper Province, may be induced in the ensuing campaign to invade Lower Canada; in which case these volumes will be found to possess a greater claim to the public attention than any other account of North America extant.

Nov. 1st, 1813.

INTRODUCTION TO THE FIRST EDITION.

"What a large volume of adventures may be grasped within this little span of life, by him who interests his heart in everything; and who having eyes to see what time and chance are perpetually holding out to him, as he journeyeth on his way, misses nothing he can fairly lay his hands on!" STERNE.

I Had long entertained a desire to visit the American continent, and to explore those parts which have been rendered interesting by the glories of a Wolfe and a Washington. In the one had to see the effect of a foreign government upon the minds and manners of a people widely differing from ourselves: and in the other, the effect of a new government upon those who a few years ago were British subjects, but who now hold a distinguished rank in the scale of independent nations. In short, to see the new world, and to tread on that ground which little more than three centuries before was unknown , was an object which I ardently longed to accomplish.

My wishes in this respect were at length gratified; and I arrived at Quebec in the autumn of 1806. I had previously read several authors who had not written on Canada; but I had not been long arrived, before I found that a considerable alteration and improvement had taken place within the last twenty years. The descriptions then given, were no longer perfect. Many interesting particulars had likewise never been noticed; and Lower Canada seemed to be as little known to the people of England, as the deserts of Siberia.

I therefore availed myself of this favourable opportunity to collect information, and to make myself acquainted with the present state of Canada. Everything was of an interesting nature; for though the province belonged to the British Government yet the majority of the people were totally different from those whom I had been accustomed to see; their manners, customs, language, and religion, were all new to me; and I found myself at once upon a strange soil, and among a foreign people.

After residing a twelve month in Canada, I visited the United States, a country, whose real state and condition is almost as little known in England, as that of Canada; and the manners and disposition of whose inhabitants are seldom viewed but through the false medium of popular prejudice. Whatever truth there may have been in the accounts given of the United States by former writers, they present at this day, but imperfect or distorted pictures of the country and its inhabitants. Those who have not seen the United States for the last twenty years, would be astonished at the alteration that has taken place. No country, perhaps, ever increased in population and wealth, or rose into importance among other nations, more rapidly than the United States. Within the space of thirty years they have emerged from the obscurity of colonies, into the rank of independent States; governed by a constitution altogether novel in the present times, but which, whatever defects it may contain, has proved the source of all their prosperity. The people of England are too apt to hold the character of the Americans in trifling estimation; but when it is known that their country is fast approaching to importance, that their imports and exports already amount to one-half of those of Great Britain, while their annual expenditure is not a twentieth , and their national debt not a fortieth part of ours, we cannot avoid giving them our meed of admiration. It is to be hoped that the two nations will no longer give way to blind and acrimonious prejudices against each other, but endeavour to cultivate the blessings of peace, instead of the horrors of war.

I certainly felt a lively interest in visiting the United States, with which I was but imperfectly acquainted from written accounts. My eyes and ears were open to everything I saw or heard; and though I met with a people whose manners and customs differed but little from those of my own countrymen, yet there was a novelty in many things which arrested my attention, and was not always unworthy of notice.

The result of my labours I know lay before the public, and trust that their liberality and candour will make allowances for the errors and deficiencies of a first attempt. If I have been too prolix in some things, it has been occasioned by a desire to impart all the information which I considered useful or interesting, and by looking upon a variety of subjects, new to me, with more interest perhaps than they really deserved. If I may have said but little upon other subjects, it is because, much has been before said of them, and I wished only to touch most upon such things as were possessed of the greatest degree of novelty or importance; not but that it is a difficult task to speak only of what others have omitted; for as Dr. Johnson truly observes, "to oblige the most fertile genius to say only what is new, would be to contract his volumes to a very few pages."

In the course of my tour through Lower Canada, and part of the United States, my object has been to describe the people as I found them; to remove the veil of unjust prejudice, and the gloss of flattery. If in some places it may be supposed that I have spoken with too much freedom, I can only say, that it is the freedom of truth; yet, where truth has obliged me to speak freely, I have done it only from a consciousness of its being of public utility, and not from a desire to hurt the feelings of any individual. In expressing my opinion of such things as offered themselves to my notice, I hope that I shall not be accused of presumption by those who may differ from me: we are all anxious to learn the thoughts of each other, and a man writes to little purpose who is afraid of speaking his real sentiments. A traveler who visits foreign nations should bring home that knowledge and information which may be of service to his own country; such as may supply some want, or mitigate some evil: but he would ill perform the duty incumbent upon him, were he servilely to flatter the errors and prejudices which he should endeavour to correct.

Amidst the variety of manners and dispositions which distinguish the natives of every country, a stranger meets with characters of all descriptions, and often of the most contradictory nature. Hence, even his own opinions are, at times, rendered almost irreconcilable; and he himself is at a loss how to judge of the people whom he wishes to describe. In most countries there are certain traits and peculiarities in the natives, which may, in some measure, form what is called a national character; yet to designate a people thus indiscriminately, is as erroneous in judgement, as to sum up the total of a man's disposition from particular lineaments of his countenance. If, therefore, opposite qualities are found, and seemingly contradictory characters displayed, in the people whom I have attempted to delineate, they are such as characterize human nature more or less: for perfection is unattainable in this life; and virtue may predominate where vice exists.

Upon the same principle, every country has its advantages and defects; and whether it be the frozen deserts of the Eskimos, or the luxurious plains of the Italian, each prefers that country which gave him birth. Hence, while I acknowledged and admired the easy independence and happiness of the Canadians, the rising prosperity and freedom of the Americans, I could not look back on the country I had left, without sentiments of greater veneration and attachment than any I had before felt. I compared the advantages and defects which each country possessed, and the result was decidedly in favour of my own.

I have considered it indispensable to say thus much in explanation of my sentiments, not for the purpose of laying claim to merit which I do not deserve, but because I venture before the public as a stranger, whose principles are unknown, and may therefore be misconceived. As to the work itself, I submit it to the impartial judgement of the public, with the utmost deference to their opinion, by which it must stand or fall.

CHAPTER I.

Our passage to the Banks of Newfoundland was not attended with any remarkable circumstance. We met with the usual squalls and gales so frequent on the Atlantic Ocean in the fall of the year, and the winds were sufficiently capricious to give me a tolerable notion of traverse sailing.

I was told that we should certainly meet with very foggy weather on the Banks, and have to ring the ship's bell, and rattle our tin kettles, to prevent being run down by other vessels: but to the surprise of all on board we had finer weather on the Grand Bank, than we had experienced during the passage, Not the least haze was visible, and the sea, for a day or two, was as calm and as smooth as a canal. We caught about a dozen cod, and should have taken many more, had not an easterly breeze sprung up and wafted us over the Bank. The season for fishing being over, we did not meet with a single vessel; all around us was therefore a clear expanse of sky and water, and we the centre of our heavenly arch and liquid plain. I shall not detain my readers with a long account of the mode of catching fish, and other peculiarities of this immense Bank, as they have been repeatedly mentioned by every writer of voyages, who has sailed over or near it since the days of Cabot.

The first land we made was Trespassé Bay, on the south coast of Newfoundland, in the afternoon of the 11th October. Our reckoning must have been remarkably correct, as we were within two hours sail of the spot laid down on the Captain's chart, and which agreed exactly with the bearings of coast. We stood a considerable way into the bay, the shores of which are bold and rugged. As it was the first portion of the New World that regaled my eyes after a tedious passage, it was on that account doubly acceptable; and, barren as it appeared, I gazed on it with pleasure, while my imagination wandered from the trifling privations and difficulties of my own voyage, to those which the great Columbus encountered in search of a new hemisphere.

Newfoundland is an immense island, abounding with numerous harbours, some of which are very capacious, and extend a great distance into the country; but the interior having never been perfectly explored, the greatest part of the island remains an unknown wilderness. A small part only is cultivated, and even that scarcely repays the labour of the husbandman. Potatos and a few other vegetables, are all that the soil is capable of producing in any perfection; for the season is too short for wheat, and oats seldom ripen. In May the winter breaks up, and till September the air is temperate. During this period vegetation is rapid; but the poverty of the soil is such, that it requires a supply of manure to produce what, in other countries, would be regarded as very inadequate to the trouble and expense bestowed upon it. Small quantities of hay are made, but of an indifferent quality. St. John's is the capital town of the island, and the place where all the fish caught on the Banks is dried and packed up for Europe. The streets are narrow and dirty, the buildings low and inelegant. Every other kind of provision, but fish, is scarce and dear. The town is supplied with poultry, meat, and vegetables, by the Canadians and Americans, who are sure to find a good market for their productions. A turkey often sells for a guinea, and a leg of mutton for fifteen shillings. In short, the situation of the inhabitants at St. John's seems very much to resemble that of the people of St. Helena; and were it not for the abundant supply of fish, which is procured at both those places, their fare would be extremely scanty. At St. Helena, the inhabitants are allowed fresh meat only four times a year; and no man is permitted to kill a sheep or an ox of his own, without an order from the Governor. The inhabitants of Newfoundland are robust and healthy, and though enveloped the greatest part of the year in the dense vapours of the Grand Bank, yet possess the jolly, ruddy countenance of the English; which thus seems to be congenial with a foggy atmosphere. The women are said to be extremely prolific; but, as Sterne says, 'There is nothing wonderful in that, since it may be accounted for in the principles of their diet.'

The bleak and rugged shores of Newfoundland impress their beholders with no favourable opinion of the country; while the boldness of the coast, and the raging of the ocean, make them tremble for their safety. The night we passed between Cape Ray and the island of St. Paul was pregnant with danger and alarm. It blew a gale of wind; and such was the darkness of the night, that even if the vessel had been driven ashore, I question whether we should have seen the land. Four days had elapsed since our departure from Trepasse Bay, during which time no observation could be taken, in consequence of the fogs and hazy weather that prevail upon the Small Banks, over which we had been sailing. By the Captain's reckoning, we were within a few miles of Cape Ray; and though we had every reason to be satisfied with its correctness, yet few on board could easily divest themselves of their apprehensions. We were going at the rate of twelve miles an hour before the wind, and a fault in the compass, or the want of a light in the binnacle, might in less than twenty minutes have proved our destruction. Fortunately, the gale was in our favour; but the howling of the wind, and the beating of the sea over the stern of the vessel, were far from alleviating the uneasiness we felt at being unable to ascertain our distance from land. Upon deck all was 'pitchy darkness,' while we flew through the water with amazing velocity, uncertain of our situation. We however assembled in the cabin, and employed ourselves, during the night, in looking over the charts of the coast; and it was some satisfaction to see the name of Captain Cook engraved upon them, having been taken from surveys made by that enterprising navigator soon after the conquest of Quebec.

It is most likely that we should have been much easier, had not the circumstance of a transport with troops on board being wrecked on Cape Ray the year before, presented itself in frightful colours to our imaginations. That vessel, in company with several others, was going from Halifax to Quebec in the month of October, 1805; but encountering a violent gale of wind, nearly in the same place as we then were passing, she was driven ashore on Cape Ray, and Major Bertram, with upwards of two hundred officers and soldiers belonging to the 100th regiment, lost their lives. Those who escaped from the wreck found themselves in the midst of a dreary forest, far from any human habitation. Some of them endeavoured to reach the nearest settlement along the coast, but they perished in the attempt. A few only, who remained behind, survived to tell the melancholy tale. They were taken off a considerable time after by a vessel that heard of their distress and carried them to Quebec; but in such an emaciated state, that they have never yet recovered from the effects of that disaster.

Our apprehensions were therefore not without some foundation: fortunately, however, they were dispelled as the dawn of day broke through the chaotic darkness, of the night, and we found that we had passed within a very short distance of our so much dreaded Cape.

How chequered is the life of a seaman! and what a variety of dangers and hardships does he encounter! One moment he is basking in all the security of a clear sky and unruffled ocean-the next, he is tossed about at the mercy of the winds and waves, expecting every moment to be his last. At the best of times, there is but a short distance between him and the grave, and a thousand dangers menace him, of which the landsman has no conception, and of which he himself is often unaware. Yet though he is thus continually sailing on the brink of destruction, he frequently is the most careless being in existence; and it is astonishing that he so seldom suffers from that danger into which his own thoughtlessness repeatedly precipitates him. Notwithstanding, however, that apparent levity and carelessness which distinguish the sailor's character, he has perhaps a higher notion of the Supreme Being, than those who pass the whole of their lives on shore; and I have often found more real piety under his rough husk, than under the smooth exterior of him who professed greater devotion. Indeed, it is almost impossible for a man to traverse such an immense expanse of ocean, and not have a lively sense of the protecting power of an Almighty Being, whose care and attention are forever extended to the very meanest of his creatures. Yet his ways are inscrutable, and far beyond the reach of human comprehension: for while some are rescued from destruction in a marvellous manner, others are doomed to perish by the most simple means. The guilty too are often saved, while the innocent are lost: and some people live in uninterrupted prosperity and happiness, while others, who perhaps appear to us more deserving, are exposed to a series of misery and disasters, seemingly, incompatible with an impartial distribution of divine justice.

After passing Cape Ray, we entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and about noon were in sight of the Magdalen Islands. The wind changing, we were obliged to run down along the coast of these Islands, which presents the same dreary view as the coast of Newfoundland, though not so bold and lofty. At this season of the year, the trees with which these islands, and the mountains and rugged shores of Newfoundland, were covered, had lost their verdant foliage, and presented nothing to the eye but the brown and gloomy tint of barrenness.

The Magdalen Islands, situated near the entrance of the Gulf, are seven in number, and belong to Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The number of inhabitants is about a thousand, of whom four hundred and fifty are men. Each settler pays two quintals of fish per annum to the Admiral, whose brother resides on one of the principal islands, with a collector. The latter receives 100 l. per annum from Sir Isaac and is also a justice of the peace. No cultivation is carried on here, except in potatoes, and that but trifling. The Americans carry on a small lucrative trade with the inhabitants, in articles chiefly contraband; and pay a certain annual sum for drying their fish on the islands. The Admiral is of a very speculative turn and has expended a considerable sum of money in endeavouring to make these islands of some importance; but except as a depot for the fisheries, they are not likely to become of any material consequence. The inhabitants are supplied with provisions and manufactured goods from Canada.

During the remainder of our passage through the Gulf, for nearly eight days, we experienced contrary winds and indifferent weather: nor did we meet with any thing worthy of particular remark. Whales, porpoises, and seals, were all that we saw of the aquatic tribe; and of the feathered race we saw only wild geese, ducks, and gulls. We had but a distant view of the island of Anticosti, which separates the mouth of the river St. Lawrence into two channels, as we kept close over to the shores of Gaspé and Cape Rosieres, along which we coasted for four days, until we arrived off Cape Chat. The island of Anticosti is of very considerable size, being one hundred and twenty miles long, and thirty broad. The French formerly had a settlement on this island, but at present it is uninhabited; nor can it ever become of much importance, as it does not possess a single harbour where a vessel can ride in safety. The wood which grows upon it is small, and the soil is reckoned unfruitful; which, added to the severity of the winter, will ever prove serious obstacles to its colonization.

On the 23rd October we took a pilot on board off Father Point, about 200 miles below Quebec. This place is inhabited chiefly by pilots, who, by a regulation of the Trinity House at Quebec, are restricted from going further down the river to meet ships. Formerly they were in the habit of cruising as far as Chaleur Bay; but, to prevent an enemy taking advantage of them, they were not allowed to board vessels below Father Point. Indeed they are not absolutely wanted before, as the navigation is very clear and open to that place. We had a very good view of this little settlement, which is extremely pretty: and the white cottages of the Canadians scattered over the cleared land, which appeared neatly fenced in, had a very pleasing effect, amidst such a wild and dreary scene as the surrounding country presented, of trackless forests, and gloomy mountains.

Our pilot, Louis Le Clair, was an old French Canadian, possessed, like the rest of his countrymen, of a tolerable opinion of himself; yet was a good humoured, friendly fellow. It was not long before we found that his predilection for the clergy was not excessive. He entertained us with many of his whimsical opinions, and declared, that for his own part, he never went to confession, though he allowed his wife and daughters to go. "Women," says he, "can never he happy until they let out their secrets, and on that account it is necessary they should have a confessor; I therefore pay him his fees, which is only justice: but for myself I consider it all as a mere farce; and it must be so, since the women say that they only tell the priests a part, and conceal the rest."-A few years ago the pilot picked up an English Bible, which, had been thrown ashore from the wreck of a ship: as he understood the language, he read it through, and it opened his eyes so much, that he could not forbear, soon after, disputing with his curé upon certain points of religion. The latter was much surprised to find him so knowing and inquired how he had obtained his information; upon which the old man showed him the Bible. The priest declared it was not a fit book for him to read, and desired he would give it into his charge. This the pilot refused, and the curé threatened to write to the bishop and have him excommunicated as a heretic: but finding that neither threats nor entreaties had any effect, he was necessitated to request that he would keep it to himself, and not let any of his neighbours know that he had such a book. The old pilot declared that he considered the finding of that Bible the happiest event of his life, in consequence of the comfort and consolation which he derived from perusing it.

Our passage up the river was extremely pleasant; the weather was fine; and the shores studded with white farmhouses, and neat churches, contrasted with the cultivated lands, and the surrounding scenery of islands and mountains covered with immense forests, formed a succession of the most beautiful and sublime landscapes.

On entering the basin formed by the shores of Point Levi and the Island of Orleans, the view of Quebec and the surrounding country suddenly arrests the attention of the spectator, and displays, at once, an assemblage of everything that is grand and beautiful. In the front is seen an immense projecting rock, covered with houses, churches, and warehouses, of stone, rising gradually one above another in the form of an amphitheater: above these are the glittering spires of the cathedrals, convents, and other religious buildings, whose refulgence dazzles the eye; while below is seen a crowd of shipping, whose masts sink into insignificance against the mountain which towers above them. On the left is Point Levi, adorned with its little cluster of houses, and neat church, which, as the vessel moves along, emerges gradually out of a thick wood. To the right, is the fruitful island of Orleans, with its neat dwellings, cultivated slopes, high grounds, and its yet uncultivated forests. Beyond, is the majestic chasm of Montmorency, and its snow-white falls, seen in an opening upon the elevated shores of Beauport, which rise in the form of terraces, until they reach the huge and lofty mountains that form the back ground, and extend far beyond the ken of mortal vision. It was the most beautiful combination of scenery I had ever beheld; and the vessel had come to an anchor off the town, before I quitted the contemplation of such a variety of charming objects.

CHAPTER II.

The season of the year in which we arrived, was by no means favourable for procuring good lodgings at Quebec. Houses are seldom to be obtained except in the month of May, when the term for which they are taken expires; besides this, the House of Assembly was to meet shortly, and the influx of its members, from different parts of the country, rendered it very difficult to procure either a house or apartment. We were therefore obliged to be contented with a very indifferent house in Champlain-street, one of the most disagreeable parts of the Lower Town. The building itself had nothing to recommend it to our favour, and the situation was extremely repulsive. It was some consolation, however, to have Mr. Mure, one of the most distinguished merchants in Quebec, as our next-door neighbour; the house we occupied belonged to that gentleman, who also owned an extensive wharf and range of large store-houses adjoining.

The houses in Quebec are, with few exceptions, built of stone; the roofs of the better sort are generally covered with sheets of iron, or tin, and those of an inferior description with clapboards. Shingles have been prohibited; though many old buildings have them. In case of fire, the burning shingles, scattered about by the wind, spread the destructive flames to a great extent: it was the danger apprehended on this account, that caused the provincial parliament to prohibit, in future, the covering of houses with them; but the boarded roofs which are at present chiefly in use, are equally dangerous in catching fire, though perhaps not so likely to communicate it to distant parts of the town. On the roofs of the houses, two or three ladders are placed near the garret windows, for the purpose of assisting the chimneysweepers to get on the roof, and clean the chimneys. Boys do not go up as in England, but two men perform the work with a bundle of twigs, or furze, tied to a rope, which they pull up and down till the chimney is sufficiently clean; one man goes upon the roof, and the other remains below: a similar mode is practised in Scotland.

The streets of the Lower Town, with the exception of two or three in the vicinity of the marketplace, are scarcely deserving of that appellation; they are rugged, narrow, and irregular, and can be compared only to the dirtiest lanes of London. St. Peter's-street is the best paved and widest of the Lower Town: it contains several good substantial houses, which are chiefly occupied by the principal merchants and traders. It has a very gloomy appearance; yet the attention of foot passengers is constantly kept alive by the continual noise and bustle of the carters, whose vehicles are drawn up on one side of the street, near the market-place, for the purpose of being hired: carts are therefore continually on the move along this street; and the adjoining wharfs afford them constant occupation in the summer season, during which period this place is a complete Thames street.

The Lower Town is built along the base of the mountain by the water side, extending on the south as far as L'Ance des Mères, and to the north as far as the suburbs of St. Rocque, a length of nearly two miles. That part which comprises the marketplace, St. Peter's street, and the wharfs adjacent which extend a considerable Prescot-gate and terminates near the French cathedral, within a short distance of the Upper Town market-place. In its present winding form, it is very steep, and requires strength to ascend it. The little Canadian horses have a laborious task to drag up the heavy loads which their masters impose upon them. The carts used in Quebec are light, and usually drawn by one horse; their loads are not excessive, when drawing upon even ground; but the carters seldom make any allowance up Mountain-street, though half the ordinary load is more than their horse can manage; and they are obliged to make frequent stoppages on their way up.

For a pedestrian, it is very fatiguing, if his business requires a frequent intercourse between the upper and lower towns; otherwise, I conceive that two or three excursions up this hill in the course of a day are extremely conducive to health, and I believe the benefit of them is generally felt by the inhabitants. This hill is not paved more than halfway, the upper part, I suppose, being thought too steep for that purpose: if that is the case, I do not, however, see the necessity of keeping the footpaths and the road in such a rugged state: Mountain-street requires more attention than any other in Quebec, yet it is neglected the most. In wintertime it is extremely dangerous; the quantity of snow and ice, which accumulate in large masses, renders it absolutely necessary for the inhabitants to provide themselves with outer shoes shod with iron spikes or creepers. These they call galoshes and are most frequently used in the fall or spring of the year, when it generally freezes and thaws in succession for two or three weeks. After the snow is well settled on the ground, and it becomes dry walking, they make use of Shetland hose and list shoes, which are worn over their boots and shoes, and have the effect of keeping the feet both warm and dry, while they prevent them slipping about.

There is another communication between the two towns. This is by a long flight of steps, from the head of Champlain-street up to Mountain-street, nearly opposite Neilson's printing-office, which is situate about halfway up the hill. This communication saves foot passengers a considerable round by the foot of the hill, which the winding of the street would otherwise occasion: by these steps they ascend into the Upper Town in a few seconds. In the winter, however, this is a very dangerous place, particularly if the people who reside in the houses on each side neglect to keep the stairs clear from the ice and snow. Many a person has made a somerset from top to bottom, or, missing the first step, has slid down upon his back the whole length of the stairs. The frequency of such accidents has given occasion to the inhabitants to style them Break-neck stairs; certainly a very appropriate and expressive title.

During the winter of 1807, I one day saw a little boy in a small sleigh, in which was a dog completely harnessed, driving with great rapidity down the hill from Prescot-gate, and endevouring to keep the dog (who was turning off every now and then) in the proper road. Just as they came to Breakneck stairs, the dog, I suppose, considering that to be the shortest way into the Lower Town, bolted out of his course, and down he went with the boy and sleigh at his heels. I immediately ran to the head of the stairs, expecting that the boy's neck was broke, but was most agreeably surprised to find that the dog had carried him safe down, without even upsetting the sleigh. The boy kept his seat but hollaed most lustily. On recovering from his fright, he smacked his whip over the dog's back, and turned the corner of a house at the bottom of the stairs, with as much apparent dexterity as some of our noble coachmen would have displayed in turning Hyde Park Corner.

The boys at Quebec have also a peculiar amusement in the winter season, of laying themselves at full length, with their breast upon a small sleigh, and sliding down from the top of the hill to the bottom: they glide along with surprising velocity, yet can guide, and stop themselves with their feet, at pleasure. A few years ago, one of them amusing himself in this way, and neglecting to stop in time, was dashed against a house at the turning near the printing-office and killed upon the spot.

The shops, or stores, of the traders in the Lower Town do not exhibit that diversified and pleasing exhibition which is seen in London, of bow windows crowded with every description of goods; from the most trifling article of domestic manufacture, to the most costly productions of foreign countries. Here the stranger sees nothing but heavy stone buildings, gloomy casements, and iron-cased shutters painted red. If any show is made at the window, it is with paltry articles of crockery, earthen, and hardware: on one side may be seen pans, mugs, teacups and saucers, tureens, and pots de chambre: on the other, saws, files, knives and forks, jars, pots, hammers; and axes. These, with a tolerable display of bearskins, seal-skins, foxes' tails, and buffalo robes, form the invariable exhibition of a Canadian store. Even the British store-keepers make little or no show of their goods; and the merchants, all of whom have stores and warehouses for the disposal of their commodities, by wholesale or retail, content themselves with advertising every week, "their few pipes of London particular- hogsheads of claret of superior quality-fine old port-prime French brandy-superfine flour-capital pickled pork and salmon-excellent muscovado-good pine and oak timber, pine boards and heading, all for cash or short notes."

The French storekeepers purchase their goods mostly at the auctions, where they sometimes buy things very cheap; but in general, I believe, they pay more than they would at the merchants' stores, independent of the time they lose in attending the sale. The cargo of a vessel that was lost in the river St. Lawrence, in 1807, was sold by auction at Quebec, in a damaged state: it amounted to upwards of sixty thousand pounds; and, I am told, cleared more than ten per cent. profit upon the prime cost. The eagerness of the people to purchase at auctions, and the number of sales that takes place every week, considerably lessen the trade, of the regular storekeepers, and render the profession of the auctioneers extremely lucrative: they are already numerous in Quebec and contrive to realise very handsome incomes: they receive two and a half per cent. on large sales, and five per cent. upon the smaller ones.

The taverns in Quebec are very numerous, and yet a stranger is much surprised to find, on his arrival, only two houses which deserve that high-sounding name. This arises from the vanity that has taken possession of all our Transatlantic brethren, from: the confines of Florida to the coast of Labrador, to designate their paltry public-houses; or spirit-shops, by the more sonorous and dignified title of Taverns. Every little dirty hole, where a few glasses of rum, gin, or whiskey, are sold, is a Tavern. The better sort are of course Hotels; and so ignorant are the painters who bedaub their signs, that the " Ship Tavren" Such-a-one's "Tavernne, " constantly meet your eye. Some few French Canadians keep to the good old titles of " Auberge," and " Aubergiste," and now and then take care to inform the public in bad French orthography, that they sell their liquors,

"Aujourd'hui pour l'argent,

Demain pour rien."

The only taverns or hotels in Quebec that are really respectable, are the Union Hotel on the Parade near the Governor's chateau, and Sturch's in John-street. The Union Hotel, formerly kept by a half-pay officer of the name of Holmes, now proprietor of Hamilton's Tavern at Montreal, was built by a subscription raised among, the principal merchants and inhabitants of Quebec. Though the shares were only twenty-five pounds, yet it was a considerable time before a sufficient sum was raised to complete the building, which appears to have been planned with little judgement.

The whole house comprises only four large rooms. On the ground floor is a coffee-room, much too large for the company who frequent it, and two dining-rooms. The other apartment is above them and has been fitted up for a ballroom: it contains a good orchestra, and other requisites for the assemblies and concerts which are held there in the winter season. This is the only part of the plan that has been laid out with success; for the room is lofty and extensive, well furnished, and excellently adapted for its intended purposes. A small house at the back of, and adjoining to, the new building, has been converted into bedchambers, kitchens, and apartments for the master of the hotel; but not more than twenty or thirty persons can be accommodated with beds, though, from appearances, the house ought to contain accommodation for four times that number.

The principal support of the house, at first, was by an annual subscription of two guineas; all who chose to pay that sum were entitled to frequent the coffee-room, but no others: this disgusted a great many of the original subscribers, who refused to contribute beyond their share of twenty-five pounds; in consequence of which it was laid aside, and the room thrown open to all without distinction. Matters were, however, but little improved by this proceeding; for it compelled the gentry and principal merchants to keep away, because it hurt their pride to mix with the plebeians.

About three hundred yards from our residence, in Champlain-street, the American General Montgomery perished in his attempt to surprise the Lower Town, in the early part of the American war. Several persons have claimed the merit of having defeated that enterprise: it is generally thought to have been effected by a detachment of soldiers and sailors; yet I have heard it positively asserted, that no regular military force was near the spot at the time the attack commenced; but that at the moment General Montgomery and his party were passing, in apparent security, along the foot of the rock, where there was then only a very narrow path, a brisk fire of musketry, and a piece of cannon, immediately opened upon their flank, out of the window of a small house, situated at the water's edge, where a small party of the inhabitants and a few sailors had posted themselves.

The surprise and alarm which this unexpected attack created, together with a heavy fall of snow, under cover of which General Montgomery had commenced his march, threw the Americans into confusion; and seeing their general, his two aides-du-camp, and a number of men, killed by the first fire, they retreated in the greatest, disorder. The general's body, in which no less than eleven balls were found, was carried into the town, and buried within the fortification, near the citadel. -No stone or monument distinguishes his grave; but the place is remarkable, being within the walls which inclose a powder-magazine, and was pointed out to me by Colonel Glasgow of the artillery.

A man of the name of M'Quarter, who keeps a tavern, in Champlain-street, has the credit of being the person who resided in the house, and headed the small party that so suddenly stopped the progress of General Montgomery, by their brisk fire from the window. I know not how far this account may be entitled to belief, amidst the various contradictory statements that I have heard; but more credit is generally given to it than to any other. An extensive brewery is now situated nearly upon the spot where that memorable affair took place.

Arnold, the other American general, made his attack upon the Upper Town, Mr. Weld has said at St. John's Gate; which occasions him to re mark upon the absurdity of Arnold's attacking one of the strongest parts of the fortification. This, I have been informed, was not the case, but that he made his attack in person upon that part now called Hope's Gate, leading to St. Rocque's Suburb, at that time merely a barrier of picketing. Two or three other places were, however, attacked at the same time; and it is most likely that a feint was made at St. John's Gate, as well as at Palace Gate: but the points where Arnold principally depended for success were the place where he attacked in person, and at a picket guard, now called Prescot Gate, a short distance from the top of Mountain-street, which commands the entrance into the Lower Town. This barrier is now strongly fortified, and surmounted with a kind of blockhouse, with loop-holes for musketry, beneath which is an archway of stone secured with double gates. On one side of the gate are embrasures, with two pieces of cannon of large calibre; on the other are powerful works of stone, within which is situated a large building, called the Bishop's Palace: it was formerly the abode of the French catholic bishop; but at present it is occupied for public offices on one side, and for the house of assembly, legislative and executive councils, on the other.

It is generally thought that Arnold would have succeeded in entering with his party, had he not been wounded. The Americans kept possession of the Lower Town for three or four days after the attack. Many of them sheltered themselves from the fire of the garrison in a large stone building, called the Intendant's Palace, situated just without walls adjoining the suburb of St. Rocque. In the time of the French government, it was the residence of the intendant, an officer of secondary rank to the governor, though frequently possessed of much greater power and influence. For some time, this building was spared by the garrison; but finding the Americans annoyed them very much with their rifles, being defended only by a wooden picketing along the rock, they soon reduced it to a heap of ruins, and compelled the Americans to shift their quarters.

In this state the building remains at this day: but massy stone walls have been erected upon the opposite rock where the picketing formerly stood; and loop-holes for musketry are left at short distances, so that in future the garrison can never be annoyed in that quarter, except by heavy artillery, an article which the Americans did not possess, and without which it is the very height of folly to attempt to besiege Quebec.

The house of the intendant was called the Palace, because the council of the French government of North America was held there. It was a very handsome stone building, and contained several large, elegant apartments, which were furnished with magnificence and splendour. To the northward there was a spacious garden, well stocked with every variety fruit-trees, shrubs, plants, &c. On one side of the courtyard were placed the king's stores and on the other the prison. In this house all the deliberations concerning the province were held, and those magistrates who had the management of the police and civil power also met here. The intendant generally presided, but in affairs of importance the governor-general was present. This building has been burnt down no less than three times, previous to its demolition in the American war. The walls are all that are now left of it, and it is not likely that it will ever be rebuilt.

CHAPTER III.

The name of Quebec is said to have originated from the Norman language, and that one of the persons who accompanied M. de Champlain in his expedition up the river, on his arriving in sight of the peninsula formed by the rivers St. Lawrence and St. Charles, exclaimed "Quelbec!" "What a point!"-Others, however, assert that the name is derived from the Algonquin word Quebeio or Quebec, which signifies contraction , because the St. Lawrence becomes contracted between Quebec and Point Levi, where it is scarcely three quarters of a mile across, which is very narrow when compared with other parts of the river. The Abenaquis word Quelibec, signifying shut up, has also been thought to have given rise to the name, because the Abenaquis Indians, who lived over at Claudiere, about three leagues from Quebec, coming from thence, could see nothing of the two channels formed by the island of Orleans, that to the southward being hid by Point Levi, and the northern one by the island. The port of Quebec, thus inclosed, appears like a great bay or lake.

From which of these three languages the name of Quebec has originated, is yet undecided; though I think the Algonquin word has a preference over the Norman, because the language of the Algonquins, at one time the most powerful nation in Canada, was universally spoken by the Indians of that country. The Abenaquis expression Quelibec, is nothing more than a corruption of the Algonquin Quebeio or Quebec: this is the more evident, as their significations are nearly synonymous. Another reason why I think the Indian appellation was more likely to have originated the name than the Norman, Is the improbability that M. de Champlain should have denominated that remarkable spot, where he afterwards built a city, merely from the casual exclamation of one of his men. It is most likely that he preserved the Indian name, as he did in several other places; not wishing, perhaps, totally to destroy the only vestige of antiquity that he found in the country. The rage for altering ancient names was as prevalent in his age as it is in ours, and kings, princes, and saints, receive their full share of that species of honour. It is not probable, therefore that Champlain would have neglected such an excellent opportunity as the foundation of a new city afforded him, of honouring the memory of some favourite saint, king, or prince of the blood royal, without some better reason than that one of his attendants exclaimed " What a point! " The near affinity, however, of the Norman expression to the Indian name has no doubt furnished the Jesuit missionaries with a plausible pretext for their assertion.

The strong natural situation of Quebec, and the apparent strength of its fortifications, have led, many people to look upon it as another Gibraltar. Nothing however can be more erroneous. Within these few years, great additions and improvements have certainly been made, which have strengthened many of its former weak points but there yet remains much to accomplish before it ever can rank even second to that celebrated fortress. Nature has, indeed, done more for it than art will ever accomplish. Besides its local advantages, it is separated by immense forests and rivers from an invading army of the United States, the only country from which Quebec has anything to dread while it remains in the hands of the English. An expedition from France will never be undertaken, while we keep possession of the ocean.

Should a war ever take place between Great Britain and the United States, it is more than probable that the latter would attempt to conquer Canada. Their great object would be to drive us from the American continent, as much as to obtain an equivalent in the event of peace. Great exertions would undoubtedly be made; and an immense army transported across Lake Champlain would most likely carry all before it, till it arrived in the neighbourhood of Quebec. The difficulty of bringing with it a large battering train would, I think, prove insurmountable; and without that all their attempts to get, possession of the city must fail, provided the works were well manned. As long as we retain the capital in our hands the country can never be conquered; it may be overrun and desolated; but the enemy must eventually retreat, if we keep up any tolerable force of regulars and militia.