Travels through Canada, and the United States of North America, Volume 2 E-Book

John Lambert

• Herausgeber: Jazzybee Verlag
• Kategorie: Geisteswissenschaft
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 539

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2024

Beschreibung

The first volume is devoted to Canada, the second to the United States. Lambert landed at Quebec in October 1806. He furnishes a picture of the place of that date, and describes the social manners, dress and political events which were happening, with more than the usual care bestowed by the passing traveller. Much of his historical narrative, however, is not in accordance with fact, having been disproved by authentic document . From Quebec he visited Three Rivers and Montreal, and ascending Lake Champlain entered the United States. Lambert remained at Quebec from November 1806 to August 1807. He came back to Canada in 1808, in order to obtain a passage home. We learn from this work that at this date, both at Quebec and Montreal, the theatre had been established and performances periodically given. His account does not suggest that the acting was of a high order.

Leseprobe

Travels through Canada and the United States of North America

In the Years 1806, 1807 and 1808

VOLUME 2

JOHN LAMBERT

Travels through Canada and the United States of North America Volume 2, J. Lambert

Jazzybee Verlag Jürgen Beck

86450 Altenmünster, Loschberg 9

Deutschland

ISBN: 9783988680266

www.jazzybee-verlag.de

[email protected]

CONTENTS:

CHAPTER XXV.1

CHAPTER XXVI.13

CHAPTER XXVII.24

CHAPTER XXVIII.31

CHAPTER XXIX.38

CHAPTER XXX.53

CHAPTER XXXI.67

CHAPTER XXXII.75

CHAPTER XXXIII.84

CHAPTER XXXIV.93

CHAPTER XXXV.99

CHAPTER XXXVI.103

CHAPTER XXXVII.116

CHAPTER XXXVIII.125

CHAPTER XXXIX.132

CHAPTER XL.147

CHAPTER XLI.159

CHAPTER XLII.224

CHAPTER XXV.

On the afternoon of the 10th November I left Montreal in company with the American captain, and crossed over in a canoe to Longueil, which lies on the south-east shore of the St. Lawrence, nearly opposite the city. There we hired a calash and proceeded about nine miles up the river to La Prairie de la Madelaine, a small village which derived its name from the extensive meadow land in its vicinity, dedicated to Mary Magdalen. This place contains about 100 houses, a church, and two or three inns kept by Americans; but the town is inhabited mostly by French Canadians. It is the medium of communication between Montreal and St. John's, and of the commerce carried on between the United States and Lower Canada.

We slept at La Prairie that night, and next morning set off for St. John's in an American stage drawn by three horses. Though I was still in Canada, yet the novelty of such a vehicle made me fancy myself already in the States; and the illusion was increased by meeting with American inn keepers who spoke English, and in everything else presented a great contrast to the maîtres des postes on the other side of the river. About seven miles from La Prairie we stopped at an American tavern to breakfast, and for a quarter of a dollar were plentifully supplied with beef-steaks, eggs, and tea; and, to add to the pleasure of our dejeuné, were attended by a very pretty girl.

A few Habitant houses and farms are scattered along the road; but a great part is yet uncultivated. Within two or three miles of St. John's the road reaches the Richelieu River, and, bending to the right, proceeds along its bank until it approaches that village. The country on the east or left bank of the river is unsettled and covered with thick woods on the other side; along the road, towards the village, there are a few indifferent farms; it has the appearance of a new country, though it is upwards of seventy years since the fort at St. John's was constructed. We arrived at St. John's about one o'clock; and having been recommended to Watson's tavern, I put up there till the wind was favourable for the vessel to sail.

The village of St. John consists only of one short street of houses, most of which are stores and inns. Among the latter Cheeseman and Watson's are the best. They are Americans, and the former keeps the best inn at La Prairie; he is also owner of most of the stages which run between the two places. Accommodations at both taverns are, however, very indifferent, though superior to what are afforded at the Canadian post-houses. There is a customhouse in this village, where the exports to and imports from the States are registered, and the duties paid. It stands in the fort, which is situated about two hundred yards from the village. The latter contains a magazine, a few pieces of cannon, and a detachment of soldiers; but it is altogether incapable of effectual defence. The fortification consists of a sort of earthen redoubt, thrown up around a few houses and a magazine, and strengthened with cedar picketing.

I had waited two days at St. John's, during which I was prevented going out of doors in consequence of the wet weather and bad roads, when I was informed that the vessel in which I was to have sailed had taken advantage of a favourable breeze and left the town in the middle of the night. I was much vexed at this news, as it was uncertain when another vessel would come in, and it was expected that the lake would be frozen over in a few days. I was also astonished that the captain never came to inform me that he intended to sail and could not help suspecting that my landlord had played me a trick in order to detain me longer in his house.

I was therefore obliged to remain three days longer in imprisonment at this miserable village. I amused myself with reading an old book which the landlord lent me, called The Independent Whig, published in 1720, and containing much satire and invective against the high church or Tory party, and the ministers of the established religion. This book was formerly much read in the English colonies of America and tended greatly to assist that spirit of independence and republicanism which afterwards led to the Revolution.

On Sunday afternoon a small sloop came in from Burlington, which I understood was immediately engaged by three gentlemen at Cheeseman's tavern to take them to Skenesborough. While I was preparing to go down to the wharf the master of the vessel called upon me, and I instantly engaged a passage to the same place. He was to discharge his cargo that afternoon, and to sail at night if the wind became favourable. A Mr. Welch soon after arrived at Watson's, and as he was going to New York he also took his passage in the same vessel; and it was agreed that the captain should call for us when he was ready to start. So anxious was I not to miss this opportunity of quitting a place which had now become completely disagreeable to me, that I would not go into bed, but merely laid myself down in my clothes. My precautions were however useless, as it was not till nine o'clock the next morning that the vessel was ready to sail. Having entered our names at the guardhouse, we went on board, and immediately got under weigh with a light breeze.

I was agreeably surprised to find that one of the three gentlemen who had engaged the vessel was Mr. Storrow, an American merchant, whom I had met at Dillon's Hotel: he was returning to Boston by the way of New York, in order to arrange his affairs previous to his opening a store at Montreal the following spring. The other two gentlemen were his acquaintance: one of them, Mr. Henry Mackenzie of the North-west company, was going to New York, and from thence to England, upon the company's concerns: the other was Mr. Lyman, a druggist of Montreal. This gentleman was born in the United States, but found it more profitable to reside in Canada, where he carries on a considerable trade with his native country. Mr. Welch was going to New York, and from thence to South Carolina to recover some property for a mercantile house at Hull. Thus it fortunately happened we were all bound for the same city, a circumstance which made me consider the delay I had experienced at St. John's in a less unfavourable point of view; for, had I gone in the first vessel, which I afterwards learnt went no further than Burlington, I should have had to travel upwards of 400 miles through a strange country by myself; and those who have been in the habit of travelling in America will easily conceive the satisfaction I felt in meeting with agreeable companions on this journey.

The sloop in which we were embarked was a wretched vessel. It had formerly been a regular trader, but being worn out was laid up for sale at Burlington. It was afterwards bought by four men for 100 dollars, upon condition that, if it was seized by the officers and condemned as unfit for service, the money was to be returned. Two of the purchasers agreed to navigate her to St. John's with a cargo of butter and cheese, intending to return to Burlington with another freight. This was agreed to, and the vessel came in on the Sunday, as I before mentioned; but instead of returning back to Burlington, she was engaged by out party to go to Skenesborough. The offer was tempting; and with several barrels of potash and butter which they took on board for that place, the voyage was likely to turn out very advantageous, particularly if the vessel was seized on her arrival, as they expected; for then the purchasers would recover their 100 dollars again and have all the freight and passage money as clear profit. The man who commanded the vessel was called Robert; and the other who acted in the capacity of mate and foremastman was named David. Neither of them knew much of the navigation of the Lake, even between Burlington and St. John's, and both were perfectly ignorant of it from Burlington to Skenesborough, which is upwards of 80 miles further.

Our prospects, it must be owned, were rather gloomy. We had to cross a lake above 150 miles in length, and in some parts 20 miles in breadth, in the very worst season of the year, when snow storms happen almost every day, and render the navigation of the lake even more dangerous than the ocean; added to which, we were in a crazy leaky vessel, without a boat to go ashore in, or a spare rope in case of accident. The sails were in rags, the pumps choked up and broken; and we were obliged to bale out the water from under the cabin every two hours with a tin kettle. To increase our difficulties we had two ignorant men to pilot us, who were as little acquainted with the management of a vessel as they were with the navigation of the lake.

Fortunately for us the weather was fine; and instead of ruminating upon the dangers we were likely to encounter, we amused ourselves by laughing at the unskilfulness of the captain and his mate, particularly the latter, whose fears lest the vessel should be upset at every puff of wind afforded us much diversion. He continually kept fast hold of the peak halyards, and at every little breeze instantly lowered the peak, exclaiming, 'What aa awful wind! It blows nation stout!' The singularity of his expressions and his fears made us laugh very heartily; and as he was rather a humorous fellow, he took our jokes in good part.

About two o'clock in the afternoon we crossed the line in latitude 45 north. But as it was only the boundary line between Canada and the United States, Neptune and his spouse did not condescend to pay us a visit. As some incredulous persons may, however, doubt that the Richelieu River possesses its gods and goddesses, like the ocean, I shall, for their information, acquaint them, that an ancient French Jesuit missionary positively declared that he saw a merman in that river, three leagues below Chambly, and has recorded it in his writings! Though we received no visit from these marine gentry, yet it will appear that some of our party paid them a visit in the course of the night; and though the ceremony of shaving was omitted, yet that of ducking was carried into full effect.

The boundary line is about 18 miles from St. John's and passes across the Richelieu River within a few miles of Lake Champlain. Hence the Canadians are completely shut out from the lake in case of war, and even from the water communication with their own territory in Missisquoi bay. The greatest part of this bay lies in Canada and is thus cut off by this line of demarcation, so ignorantly or pusillanimously allowed by the English negotiators in the treaty of peace with the American States in 1783. In case of war, the Americans have every advantage over the Canadians, by confining them to the narrow channel of Richelieu River; and the ill effects of it have been already experienced since the embargo, as the rafts of timber were not permitted to come out of Missisquoi bay for the purpose of passing down the Richelieu River. The laws however were broken in several instances; but the parties were liable to fine and imprisonment. If the line had been drawn across the wide part of Lake Champlain, the Americans could never have stationed their gun boats with such effect as they did in 1807 in the Richelieu River, by which means they interrupted the communication between the two countries by water, and seized great quantities of goods.

From St. John's to the entrance of the lake there are scarcely any settlements. Both shores are lined with woods, consisting chiefly of pines which grow to a great height. A few straggling log-huts are seen at intervals, but otherwise it is completely in a state of nature. The Isle au Noix is situated near the line. Upon it are the remains of a small fortification, which had been successively occupied by the French, English, and American armies during the several wars which have occurred in that country. The name of the island used sometimes to be given out for the parole upon those occasions; and it is related of an English officer during the American war, who, upon being challenged by the sentinel, gave the word "Isle au Noix" in the true pronunciation, that the sentinel refused to let him pass. The officer persisted he was right, and the soldier maintained he was wrong; till at length the former, recollecting himself, cried out " Isle of Nox. " -" Pass ," said the soldier; " you have hit it at last! "

The weather, though clear and dry, was extremely cold and frosty; and we had nothing to make a fire in, but an old broken pitch pot which could barely hold the wood. Our dinner consisted of some cold boiled beef and tongue, which we brought with us from St. John's; and there being some potatoes on board, we boiled them in a large iron teakettle. We appropriated it to that use, as it was not wanted to boil water for tea; having none of the requisites for that meal on board. About five in the afternoon we passed Windmill Point, and entered the lake. We kept as close as possible to the shore, the captain being obliged to report his vessel at the custom-house on Cumberland Head. There being little wind, the sloop glided smoothly through the water; and as the evening closed in, the moon favoured us with her borrowed light, and enabled our unskillful mariners to avoid the craggy rocks which in many places line the shore. Some of us now wrapped ourselves up in buffalo robes, or great coats, and lay down in the cabin, more as a shelter from the cold frosty air than to procure repose. One or two remained upon deck; for there were not births enough for the whole of the party, having two Americans on board, whom we were to put ashore near the customhouse.

About midnight the vessel arrived off Cumberland Head, upon the hearing of which we all went upon deck. Being unwilling to cast anchor for the short time we had to stay at this place, we were obliged to run the vessel upon some rocks near the shore; and not having a boat, we hailed a tavern at some distance in which we perceived a light. Nearly an hour elapsed before we could make any person hear. At length a man came down to the waterside; and being told what we wanted, he soon after came along-side the sloop in a canoe half-full of water. The tin kettle was immediately handed down to him; but his canoe was so very leaky that the water came in as fast as he bailed it out. The man, therefore, finding his exertions useless, desired the captain to get in and never mind the water. Robert accordingly complied, and was immediately followed by Mr. Lyman, who wished to get something warm to drink at the tavern; as it then froze very hard, and our fire had gone out. At the moment I was almost inclined to accompany him ashore; but not admiring the idea of sitting nearly knee deep in water, I remained on board: and it was fortunate for me that I did; for Mr. Lyman and the captain had scarcely seated themselves on the gunnel of the canoe when it upset, and all three were completely ducked. On board we were at first alarmed, as they appeared to be out of their depth, and were looking about for a rope to throw overboard, when we saw them upon their feet making towards the beach, nearly up to their necks in water. The man who had brought off the canoe ran home as fast as possible; while Mr. Lyman and the captain, having dragged the canoe ashore, made the best of their way to the tavern.

When we found they were safe, we could hardly refrain from laughing at the adventure, and the disappointment of the boatman, who little expected that a ducking in the lake at midnight, in frosty weather, would be his only reward. Our tin kettle was lost; for though by the light of the moon we were enabled to see it, we could not fish it up again. Necessity, therefore, obliged us to resort to our last utensil on board, the teakettle, for baling out the water, which seemed to gain very fast upon us, and was nearly up to the cabin floor. About ten minutes after Mr. Lyman came on board in the canoe with his clothes frozen upon him. The people at the tavern had refused both him and Robert admittance; and though they mentioned the accident they had met with, yet they were inhumanly ordered away, and not allowed even to dry themselves. Robert was then obliged to go to the customhouse, drenched to the skin; and when he afterwards came on board his clothes had become a solid mass of ice! We had plenty of brandy on board, and with that they contrived to throw off the effects of the cold; so that fortunately neither of them received any injury.

We were nearly two hours before we could get the vessel off the rocks. At length having succeeded, we coasted along the shore till four o'clock in the morning, when we arrived in a small bay in the township of Shelburne, about 60 miles from St. John's, situate in the widest part of the lake. Here we went ashore to the first farmhouse, at a little distance from the bay. The door was only on the latch, and we entered; but the people were not yet up. Having awaked the master of the house, and told him our situation, he said we were welcome, and that he would get up immediately. In the meantime, we collected some wood, and putting it upon the live embers in the fire-place soon made a large fire. This was a most comfortable relief after the cold night we had passed on board our miserable sloop. We found that a considerable quantity of snow had fallen in this part of the lake, though we had not met with any during the passage.

The master of the house with two of his sons were soon up and having put the kettle on the fire made preparations for breakfast. About six o'clock his wife and daughters, two pretty little girls, came into the kitchen where we were assembled, and in the course of half an hour we had the pleasure of sitting down to a substantial American breakfast, consisting of eggs, fried pork, beefsteaks, apple-tarts, pickles, cheese, cyder, tea, and toast dipped in melted butter and milk. We were surprised at seeing such a variety of eatables, as it was not a tavern; but the farmer was a man of property and carried on the farming business to a considerable extent. He showed us a great number of cheeses of his own making; and for churning butter he had made a kind of half barrel, with a place for one of his young boys to sit astride as on horseback. This machine moving up and down answered the double purpose of a churn for making butter, and a rocking-horse for his children.

Having made an excellent breakfast, we inquired of our worthy host what we had to pay: he said he should be satisfied with a York shilling (about 7 d. sterling): this, however, we considered too small a sum for the trouble we had given him and his family, and the handsome manner in which he had entertained us; we therefore gave him a quarter of a dollar each, that being the tavern price for breakfast. We then took our leave, and went on board our vessel, equally pleased with the disinterested hospitality of the American farmer, as with the comfortable refreshment we had received at his house. His conduct formed a striking contrast to that of the tavern-keeper at Cumberland Head, who refused Mr. Lyman and the captain admittance after their accident.

Lake Champlain is beautifully diversified with islands, some of which are of great extent and well, settled. The Isle of La Motte lies at the entrance of the Richelieu River, near the tongue of land which forms Missisquoi Bay to the eastward. But the most extensive is Grande Isle, which is 24 miles in length. In the centre of it is a small isthmus, over which the ferryboats are dragged when crossing the lake: but for this narrow piece of land Grande Isle would be divided into two islands. The Americans have changed the French name to North Hero, and another island of considerable size below it is called the South Hero. The smaller isles which are scattered in various parts of the lake add much to the beauty of the scenery; particularly a cluster of islands called the Brothers, situated at the south end of the lake, a few miles from Burlington. I was informed that in this part the lake had no bottom, at least none had yet been found, though soundings have been attempted with above 200 fathom of line. This beautiful piece of water was originally called Corlaer's lake, but received its present name from the celebrated M. de Champlain, founder of the colony of New France or Canada, of which he was governor. Along the shore of the lake are to be seen numerous houses; many of them handsome, and all far superior to those of Canada, with well cultivated farms prettily varied by clumps of trees that have been purposely left in clearing the land. The west side belongs to the state of New York, and the east to the state of Vermont. The shores are in many places bold and elevated; in others gently rising from the water's edge towards the base of lofty mountains, which are very numerous in both states, but particularly in Vermont, which may almost be reckoned the Switzerland of the United States. Some of the mountains are said to be nearly 4000 feet above, the level of the sea.

It was about eight o'clock in the morning of the 17th of November when we sailed from Shelburne Bay. The weather was fine, the wind favourable and blowing pretty fresh, so that we put to sea again (if I may be allowed the expression) in high spirits. The leaks in the vessel, however, increased so fast, that one hand was obliged to be constantly baling the water out. As this was so very troublesome, and indeed not altogether effectual, I went into the hold among the barrels of potash and kegs of butter to endeavour to find out the leak. After a long search I discovered the principal one close to the keelson. A small quantity of oakum and a caulking-iron happened to been board, but neither hammer nor mallet I however procured a thick piece of wood and managed to stop up the leak in a tolerable manner; but was obliged to be very careful not to hammer too hard, lest I should have forced the iron through the bottom of the vessel, which was completely rotten. After this we baled the sloop nearly dry and were but little troubled with the smaller leak during the remainder of the passage.

About three o'clock in the afternoon we passed Crown Point, a place much celebrated during the French and American wars. The fortifications, which are now in a dilapidated state, are situated on a point of land that commands the entrance of South River. The surrounding country is lofty and covered with thick woods interspersed with a few settlements. Soon after our entrance into South River we ran aground upon a shoal, and could not get the vessel off again without unloading part of her cargo. We immediately hailed a man on shore, who came off to us in his boat. By his assistance we procured a large scow, and took out several barrels of potash, which lightened the vessel and caused her to float into deep water, where we anchored to take in the potash. Having accomplished this, we engaged the man to pilot us to Skenesborough, about forty miles further, as we found that the navigation became more intricate in the narrow channels, and the captain and his man were perfectly ignorant of the place.

The delay we had experienced by this accident prevented us from getting under weigh till nearly dark; soon after which it began to blow very hard from the north-west. We also met several shoals of ice, through which the vessel penetrated with difficulty; and David was continually calling out that it would cut the bows and sink her: and then to keep up our spirits, he related an accident that happened to one of the sloops upon the lake, which in endeavouring to get through the ice was cut through the bows, and sunk a considerable distance from shore by which several lives were lost.

The ice which we met with was not sufficiently thick to be dangerous, but it made noise enough to frighten a stouter heart than David's. The wind had also increased to a gale, and though in our favour, yet we did not like to venture into the narrow and intricate channel of Wood Creek before daylight. We therefore came to anchor by advice of our new pilot, who by the by now seemed to be little better acquainted with the place than the other men; yet as he still professed to know more than they, we reposed some degree of confidence in him. It was scarcely day-light the next morning when we got the vessel under weigh. We kept going at an easy rate under the jib, till we reached Ticonderoga, or, as David called it, " Old Ti. " This celebrated place, though now as much neglected as Crown Point, is situate on the western shore, near the entrance of a narrow inlet leading to Lake St. George and commanding the passage across Wood Creek. The fortifications were seated on an angle of land, very steep and lofty, surrounded on three sides by water, and covered with rocks. They were however commanded by some eminences in their vicinity, and upon which the Americans threw up some works.

We now saw the danger we should have been exposed to had we passed this place in the night. Two large piles appeared just above water in the middle of the river. They had been sunk by the Americans during the war, when they threw a boom across to obstruct the passage of the British flotilla. The entrance of the creek leading to Skenesborough was also extremely narrow and intersected with several little islands or shoals covered with reeds and long grass, which in many places divided the creek into channels barely wide enough for the vessel to pass. Our pilot was often puzzled which channel to take and confessed that it was a long time since he had been that way. A few stakes now and then pointed out the course; but for the most part we ran it at hazard, and with imminent danger of striking upon some of the shoals.

The gale continued to increase, and we were obliged to use great precaution in avoiding the numerous islets with which this creek abounds. While we sailed in a straight direction the wind was directly aft; but being much oftener obliged to make a serpentine course, it was sometimes on our quarter, at other times on our beam, and frequently on the bow. The wind also came in such sudden flaws off the mountains which line the shores of this creek, that the sloop had several narrow escapes from being upset and was often near on her beam ends. In one of the gusts the main boom broke away from the stern, knocked down the captain and pilot, and carried Mr. Storrow's hat overboard. As we had no boat, we could not go after it, and the vessel was going too fast through the water to put about in such a narrow and confined channel. We were then about ten miles from Skenesborough; and as several of the smaller channels were frozen up, we expected every moment to find our passage obstructed by the ice.

This narrow river, which has very properly received the name of Wood Creek, runs between a chain of lofty mountains, which present a series of hanging woods and rocks rising up in ranges one behind the other to an immense height. The whole appears in a complete state of nature, covered with immeasurable forests: nor did we meet with more than a few solitary huts during the whole of our passage through this labyrinthian stream. The scenery was indeed sublime, but very forbidding; and the season of the year by no means tended to soften its aspect.

About noon we arrived within three miles of Skenesborough, near a bend of the river, where we found our progress suddenly arrested by the ice, which entirely blocked up the channel. The wind was powerful enough to have forced the vessel through it, and we cut a passage for two or three hundred yards; but finding the bows of the sloop much chafed, and apprehensive that they would not long withstand such a pressure of ice, we ran her ashore, and made her fast to the trees. We were now in the midst of a dreary forest; and though but a few miles from the place of our destination, yet there was neither road nor path to it. We, however, all set out under the guidance of our pilot, who knew the direction in which Skenesborough lay, and with our baggage upon our shoulders commenced our march through the woods. After nearly two hours toilsome walk over broken trunks of trees, up hill and down dale, across bogs and through brushwood and brambles, we arrived at Skenesborough. Here we put up at the only inn in the place and were glad enough to rest and refresh ourselves after our fatigues.

The village of Skenesborough, or, as it is now called by the Americans, Whitehall, is situate in a wild romantic country as yet but little cultivated or improved. It contains very few houses: but its principal resources are derived from the falls in its vicinity, upon which are built some saw and flourmills; and from the commerce carried on between the state of New York and Canada, it being the port or harbour for most of the vessels employed in that trade; and in transporting goods to the different settlements along the lake. It is only within the last twenty years that much progress has been made in settling the lands in this part of the country. During the American war they formed almost one continued wood, containing merely a few wretched roads or intricate paths. It was here that General Burgoyne and his army were delayed so many weeks in opening the roads through the woods to Fort Edward, which occasioned many of those difficulties that afterwards led to the capture of that fine army. I am told that when the General found he was hemmed in on every side, and knew he must surrender, he gave permission to his officers and soldiers to take advantage of the night and make their escape into Canada. Upwards of 2000 escaped in this manner and went off in small parties with Indians for their guides. Captain Ferguson of the Canadian fencibles, whom I have before mentioned, was then in Burgoyne's army, and went off with his father, who was a captain in one of the regiments. They made their escape at night without any Indian for their guide and were forty-three days in the woods before they reached St. John's, during which they had no other subsistence than the leaves and bark of trees, and what little game they could pick up.

I regretted that during my journey into the States I had no opportunity of visiting Saratoga, the memorable scene of that unfortunate event. But I understand that it remains nearly in the same state as described by the Duke de Rochefoucault Liancourt. The annexed engraving is from a copy which I took of the drawing of an American gentleman and represents the situation of the respective eminences on which the English, German, and American troops were posted, particularly the encampment where General Burgoyne terminated his melancholy campaign.

At the time the Duke visited this memorable spot it belonged, together with a considerable tract of country in the vicinity, to Mr. John Schuyler, a son of the American general of that name. He is since dead; but the house in which he resided stands exactly on the spot where this important occurrence took place. Fish Creek, which flows close to the house, formed the line of defence of the camp of the English general, which was situated on an eminence about a quarter of a mile from the dwelling. The camp was also entirely surrounded by a mound of earth to strengthen its defence. In the rear of the camp the German troops were posted by divisions on a commanding height, communicating with the eminence on which General Burgoyne was encamped. The right wing of the German corps had a communication with the left wing of the English, and the left extended towards the river.

General Gates was encamped on the other side of the creek, at the distance of an eighth of a mile from General Burgoyne; his right wing stretched towards the plain, but he endeavoured to shelter his troops as much as possible from the enemy's fire until he resolved to form the attack. General Nelson, at the head of the American militia, occupied the heights on the other side of the river, and engaged the attention of the left wing of the English, while other American corps observed the movements of the right wing.

In this position General Burgoyne surrendered his army. His provision was nearly consumed; but he was well provided with artillery and ammunition. The spot remains exactly as it then was, excepting that the bushes, which were cut down in front of the two armies, are since grown up again. Not the least alteration, says the Duke, has taken place since that time; the entrenchments still exist; nay the foot path is still seen on which the adjutant of General Gates proceeded to the General with the ultimatum of the American commander. The spot on which the council of war was held remains unaltered; and, in short, all the interesting memorabilia of that melancholy catastrophe have hitherto been most inviolably preserved. No monument or other recording emblem has yet been erected either by the American government or by individuals to perpetuate the remembrance of an event which tended so materially to establish the independence of their country. Perhaps none would be necessary were it possible to maintain the scene of action in its primitive state; but as that is not likely to be the case, the neglecting to raise some lasting memorial of the victory shows a want of respect for the memory of those brave men who sealed with their blood the independence of the United States. The sight of such a monument would inspirit their descendants and teach them to venerate that which had been so dearly purchased.

Having refreshed ourselves at the inn, and settled for our passage with Captain Robert, we engaged with a waggoner to carry us and our baggage to Troy. He wanted twenty dollars for the journey; but Mr. Lyman, being acquainted with the imposition of those gentry, refused to give him more than twelve, which he at length agreed to take, though not without many professions of his own moderation in so doing. The roads being bad at this season of the year, we could not procure the stage which otherwise runs upon this road. The waggon we hired is common in the states and is used by the country people to carry their provisions to market, or to transport goods from one part of the country to the other. A great number are constantly employed on the road between Skenesborough and Troy. It is a long narrow cart upon four wheels and drawn by two horses abreast. When used as a stage for travelling, a couple of chairs are placed in it: but it is a very rough method of riding; for the waggon has no springs, and a traveller ought to have excellent nerves to endure the shaking and jolting of such a vehicle over bad roads.

CHAPTER XXVI.

It was about four o'clock in the afternoon when we left Skenesborough. The road lay through a newly-settled country, which presented on both sides a dreary aspect; though it was perhaps owing as much to the season of the year as the nature of the country. The woods in many places had been cleared by burning the bark off the trees, and numbers of them yet remained standing, though vegetation was destroyed. The other parts of the farms were covered with the stumps of trees, and inclosed by worm fences, which gave to these settlements a very rough appearance. They were however numerous and contained several good houses.

About seven o'clock we arrived at Granville, a small town containing a church and several neat houses. We put up for the night at a very good tavern, where we were supplied with an excellent supper composed of as great a variety as we met with for breakfast at Shelburne, and which is customary at all the taverns throughout the northern States. One large room upstairs contained above a dozen beds, so that we each had a separate one; a thing not always to be met with at every tavern in the States. But the practice of putting two or three in a bed is now little exercised, except at very indifferent taverns, and they are chiefly confined to the back parts of the country. Within the last twenty years the States have been so much improved, that good inns are established in almost every town and village along the principal roads, and the accommodations of many of them are equal to those of England. Travellers are not, therefore liable to have a strange man step into their bed, as was the case formerly. During the whole of my tour through the States I never had occasion to bundle, though I have been sometimes asked if I wished to have a single bed.

We breakfasted at six the next morning, and hired another waggon for eight dollars, there not being room enough on the other without sitting extremely crowded. Mr. Leavens, the master of the tavern, was to drive us; and having divided our baggage equally between the two waggons, we procured double chairs, which are made for the purpose, and placed them in the fore part of the waggon. They contained two persons, and the driver sat in front. Being thus more comfortably accommodated than on the preceding evening, we began our journey in good spirits. It was well that we were provided with large buffalo robes and great coats, for the morning was excessively cold, and the snow fell in abundance.

I had not an opportunity so late in the year to see the country to advantage, but I perceived that it improved the further we proceeded on our journey. It is agreeably diversified with hill and dale, small woods, clumps of trees, cornfields, pastures, and meadow lands. The soil is said to be fertile, and it appeared in general to be well cleared from the stumps of trees, which abounded in the plantations through which we had passed the preceding day. Many very handsome houses and churches are built near the roadside, all of wood; but constructed very neatly with clapboards and shingles, which cover the heavy timbers. Many of the houses are built in the style of English country dwellings of the modern taste, some of them two or three stories high, painted white, and ornamented with green venetian shades. The churches are uncommonly neat, painted white, and kept in excellent order. They have good spires, and some of them bells.

We passed through Hebron, and some other small villages, and arrived at Salem to dinner. This little town consists of one street of handsome houses, many of them red brick, but the greater part of wood. They are built with considerable taste and are ornamented much like the other buildings I have mentioned. Some of them are shops and inns; but the majority appear to be private houses belonging to gentlemen of property in this part of the country. It is quite a new town, and apparently in a state of progressive improvement.

After dinner we proceeded on our journey. Mr. Leavens's horses being but indifferent, he took the lead with his waggon, in which were Mr. Mackenzie and Mr. Welch. Mr. Storrow, Mr. Lyman, and myself followed in the next waggon. Our driver had an excellent pair of horses, which would have knocked up those of Leavens's had they taken the lead as they did in the morning. The roads being covered with snow also obliged us to slacken our pace. This tedious travelling was by no means to our taste, and we should possibly have lost our good humour, had not the arch whimsicality of our driver, who was called Captain White , furnished us with abundant matter for mirth. He entertained us with many humorous stories and had always something smart to say to every waggoner or person that passed us. He spoke to several people of consequence in the country with the utmost freedom. To one, it was, " Why, Major, you look as if you couldn't help it this cold day. " To another, " Nation bad road, General. " To a third, who was a judge, " Awful weather, master, and sure enough your nose looks blue upon't. " They all seemed to know him and took his jokes in good part; for it afterwards, turned out, that our waggoner was himself a captain in the army! He was very severe upon his brothers of the whip, whom he declared to be the greatest rogues in the state of New-York, and assured us, that we might consider ourselves very lucky in having fallen into his hands, as he was the only honest one among them, save and except his friend Master Leavens, who was as worthy a fellow as himself.

We arrived at a tavern about eight miles from Salem, just as it was dark. Here we halted for a few hours to refresh ourselves and the horses. About eleven o'clock we proceeded on our route to Troy. As we travelled during the night, it is impossible for me to describe the appearance of this part of the country; and the moon did not condescend to enliven us with her pale beams. But our driver informed us that it was in a better state of cultivation and improvement than that through which we had passed. There are several turnpikes along this road, by which means it is kept in good repair. They are common throughout the northern and middle States, and have tended greatly to improve the country; for as soon as a good road is opened through the woods, communicating between the greater towns, the country which was before a trackless forest becomes settled, and in a few years the borders of the road are lined with habitations. The expenses are defrayed by shares subscribed by a certain number of persons, who form themselves into a company under an act of the legislature. It is a speculation that few have failed in, for the traffic on the road soon increases the value of the capital. It would be well if Canada was to imitate the example of her neighbours in this respect.

This night we passed through Cambridge, Hosick, Pittstown, and Schatchoke, all small neat towns. The further we went to the southward the less snow we found on the ground, and by the time we arrived at Lansingburgh it entirely disappeared. We reached this town about four o'clock in the morning; but it was yet so dark, that I could only discern that it consisted of one long street of large brick houses, many of them apparently handsome buildings. Troy is situated but a few miles from Lansingburgh, and we arrived there about five o'clock. We put up at a large inn; and as we had now done with our waggon-drivers we paid them the twenty dollars, according to our agreement, and parted mutually satisfied. We had no cause to complain of either of them, and the rough humour of Captain White had afforded us much mirth.

Troy is a well-built town, consisting chiefly of one street of handsome red brick houses, upwards of a mile and a half in length. There are two or three short streets which branch off from the main one; but it is in the latter that all the principal stores, warehouses, and shops are situated. It also contains several excellent inns and taverns. The houses, which are all new, are lofty, and built with much taste and simplicity, though convenience and accommodation seem to have guided the architect more than ornament. The deep red brick, well pointed, gives the buildings an air of neatness and cleanliness seldom met with in old towns: but I cannot say that I admire it so much as the yellow brick in England. The town is built on the east shore of the Hudson or North River close to the beach, and about six miles above Albany, which is situated on the opposite shore. Troy has been erected within the last twenty years and is now a place of considerable importance. The trade which it has opened with the new settlements to the northward, through the States of New York and Vermont as far as Canada, is very extensive; and in another twenty years it promises to rival the old established city of Albany. Its prosperity is indeed already looked upon with an eye of jealousy by the people of the latter place.

While we were at breakfast, newspapers came in from New York, containing accounts of the English expedition to Copenhagen, and the refusal of the British government to agree to the proposals of Mr. Pinckney, to negotiate a treaty upon the same terms as had been before so haughtily rejected and sent back by Mr. Jefferson. We were much interested with the news, and the Americans appeared apprehensive that a war would take place between the two countries. Several strangers came into the room and began to make some observations on the news: but none of our party made them any reply; for the Americans are so extremely captious upon political subjects, that they can never speak of them without entering into a dispute; and disputes generally terminate in quarrels. I soon perceived that the people were divided into two parties, the federalists and the democrats, and that both were equally violent in their political altercations. The federalists are as partial to the English as the democrats are to the French, and the people of those nations who reside in the States enlist themselves under the banners of these two parties. I shall have an opportunity of speaking more particularly of them in a future chapter, and for the present shall proceed with our journey.

After breakfast we crossed the Hudson in a ferryboat and got into the stage which was going to Albany. It was similar to the one in which I had travelled from La Prairie to St. John's and is in general use throughout the States. It is in the form of a large coach, with open sides and front, and flat roof supported by eight pillars. The panels do not come up higher than the hip, and in wet or cold weather leather curtains are let down on each side; the buttons and straps are however frequently broken off, so that the wind and rain often find a ready admittance. This kind of carriage, notwithstanding its defects, is far superior to the Canadian calash for long journeys, as the latter affords not. the least shelter. It is always drawn by four horses, which in well settled parts of the United States are as good as the generality of English stage horses. The Americans have not yet introduced the close English stage with glass windows, probably on account of the hot weather which prevails there much more than in England, and the indifferent roads which are yet in existence in many parts of the Union, particularly to the southward, and in the back settlements.

We rode along the border of the Hudson, which is prettily adorned with several small islands. It is sufficiently deep to admit sloops up to Troy, and flat-bottomed boats much higher. The surrounding country is well settled and presents to the eye the pleasing prospect of rich cultivated lands, woods, towns, villages, and scattered habitations. We arrived at Albany about noon and put up at the Tontine coffee-house kept by Gregory. We now learnt that the river was frozen over several miles below Albany, and that the steamboat in which we intended to have taken our passage to New York was laid up for the winter. We were much disappointed at the news, as we were very desirous of seeing the construction and management of this celebrated vessel, which travels at the rate of five miles an hour against wind and tide. It was built about four years ago, under the direction of Mr. Fulton, an American gentleman of great mechanical abilities. The length of the boat is 160 feet, and her width in proportion, so as not too much to impede her sailing. The machine which moves her wheels is called a twenty-horse machine, or equal to the power of so many horses, and is kept in motion by steam from a copper boiler eight or ten feet in length. The wheels on each side are similar to those of watermills, and under cover; they are moved backward or forward, separately or together, at pleasure. Her principal advantage is in calms or against head winds. When the wind is fair, light square sails, &c. are employed to increase her speed. Her accommodations include fifty-two births besides sofas, and are said to be equal, if not superior, to any vessel that sails on the river. They are necessarily extensive, as all the space unoccupied by the machinery is fitted up in a convenient and elegant manner. Her route between Albany and New York is a distance of 160 miles, which she performs regularly twice a week, sometimes in the short period of thirty-two hours, exclusive of detention by taking in and landing passengers. She carries from 100 to 120 people. The fare from New York to Albany is seven dollars.

The city of Albany has of late years rapidly increased in size, wealth, and population. A number of handsome dwelling-houses and public buildings have been erected, and the old heavy Dutch houses with the gable end towards the street are considerably diminished. One of the principal streets has a great resemblance to the Haymarket in London, being nearly the same width, and situated on an ascent. Albany contains about 6,000 inhabitants and ranks next to the city of New York in that state. The trade which is carried on in this city with the new settlements to the northward and westward is very considerable and is daily increasing. We had excellent accommodations at Gregory's, which is equal to many of our hotels in London. It is the custom in all the American taverns, from the highest to the lowest, to have a sort of table d'hôte, or public table, at which the inmates of the house and travellers dine together at a certain hour. It is also frequented by many single gentlemen belonging to the town. At Gregory's, upwards of thirty sat down to dinner, though there were not more than a dozen who resided in the house. A stranger is thus soon introduced to an acquaintance with the people, and if he is travelling alone, he will find at these tables some relief from the ennui of his situation. At the better sort of American taverns or hotels, very excellent dinners are provided, consisting of almost everything in season. The hour is from two to three o'clock, and there are three meals in the day. They breakfast at eight o'clock upon rump steaks, fish, eggs, and a variety of cakes, with tea or coffee. The last meal is at seven in the evening, and consists of as substantial fare as the breakfast, with the addition of cold fowl, ham, &c. The price of boarding at these houses is from a dollar and a half to two dollars per day. Brandy, hollands, and other spirits, are allowed at dinner; but every other liquor is paid for extra. English breakfasts and teas, generally speaking, are meagre repasts compared with those of America; and as far as I had an opportunity of observing, the people live, with respect to eating, in a much more luxurious manner than we do, particularly in the great towns and their neighbourhoods. But their meals, I think, are composed of too great a variety, and of too many things, to be conducive to health; and I have little doubt but that many of their diseases are engendered by gross diet, and the use of animal food at every meal. Many private families live nearly in the same style as at these houses and have as great variety upon their tables. Formerly, pies, puddings, and cyder used to grace the breakfast table: but they are now discarded from the genteeler houses and are found only at the small taverns and farmhouses in the country.

Having hired a stage to take us to Hudson, about thirty miles below, on the east side of the river, we left Albany the following morning, and crossed over to the opposite shore in the ferryboat. At the top of a hill, which rises gradually from the water side, we had a beautiful view of the city and its environs. Several gentlemen's seats appeared to great advantage, and the plantations, gardens, meadow lands, and orchards, interspersed among a number of handsome buildings, had a very picturesque effect. I only regretted that I was deprived of the pleasure of viewing such a pleasing scene at a more congenial season of the year. The day was however remarkably fine, which made some amends for the sombre tint of nature. The country through which we travelled this day was fruitful, well cultivated, and adorned with several neat farms and villages. In the evening we arrived at Hudson. This town is of modern construction, and like Troy consists of one very long street. The houses are of wood or brick; many of them built with taste, and all spacious and commodious. Shops and warehouses are numerous, and there are several large inns; from which I conceived that a considerable trade was carried on between this town and the interior. It has every appearance of a thriving settlement; and its situation is elevated and advantageous for commerce. There are several large brick warehouses near the wharfs for the reception of goods; and a great many small vessels sail continually between this town and New York. Shipbuilding is carried on here, and a vessel of 3 or 400 tons was just ready for launching. Several other vessels of that size were also in the harbour.

The next morning, Sunday 22nd November, we embarked on board the Experiment, a fine new sloop of 130 tons, built expressly for carrying passengers between Hudson and New York. The whole vessel was handsomely fitted up. It had two private cabins abaft, containing several bed-places for ladies. In the midship was a large general room upwards of sixty feet long, and twenty feet wide, containing a double tier of bed-places on each side for gentlemen, with printed cotton curtains drawn before them. At the head of this cabin or room there was a bar, like that of a coffee-house, where the company were supplied with wine, bottled porter, ale, segars, and such articles as were not included in the passage-money. Between the bar and the forecastle was a very complete kitchen fitted up with a good fireplace, copper boilers, and every convenience for cooking. The forecastle was appropriated to the use of the sailors. The passage-money was five dollars, for which the passengers were provided during the voyage with three meals a-day, including spirits; all other liquors were to be separately paid for.

About nine o'clock in the morning we left the wharf, which was crowded with people to see the vessel depart; for it was the largest and best of the kind, except the steamboat, that sailed on the river as a packet. It had not been established above six months. The mainmast, boom, and mainsail were of an immense size for a sloop, but we had ten or a dozen fine young fellows to work the vessel; and having a smart breeze, we soon left the town of Hudson far behind us. Mr. Elihu Bunker, who commanded the vessel, was part owner as well as captain, and seemed to be a plain religious sort of man. He had more the look of a parson than a sailor; and had posted up a long list of regulations at the cabin door, which, if properly enforced, were well calculated to keep his passengers in good order. In truth, something of the kind was necessary; for we had upwards of fifty persons on board, nearly all men. Among the forbidden articles were playing at cards and smoking in the cabin.

The morning was remarkably fine; the wind favoured us, and we had every prospect of an agreeable voyage. The month of November was but ill adapted to view the country to advantage; for the gay verdure of the fields and forests was now supplanted by the brown and gloomy hue of winter. Yet the scenes that presented themselves along the shores of the Hudson were in some places of that grand and romantic description, and in others so beautifully picturesque, that they could not fail to interest the spectator at any season of the year. This river affords some of the noblest landscapes and scenery that are to be found in any part of North America. Nature and art have both contributed to render its shores at once sublime and beautiful.

The river in many places is intersected with numerous islands. In others it is diversified with handsome windings. Sometimes its waters are contracted between stupendous rocks that frown aloft in sullen majesty. At other times they are expanded to a great extent between a fine open country containing well cultivated settlements. The rocks which line the shore in numerous parts of the river are steep and rugged; and rise to such a height above the water's edge, that the largest trees which grow upon their summits are dwindled in appearance to the smallest shrubs. Behind these rocks are ranges of enormous mountains which extend far into the country and are covered with trackless forests.

-"Gigantic, vast,

O'ershadowing mountains soar, invested thick

Their shaggy waists, and to their summits far

A wilderness unbounded to the eye,

Profuse, and pathless, unsubdued by toil.

Diminutive beneath, the Hudson, deep

Coerced by rocks, and silent penetrates

The solitudinous and woodland scene;

-struggling for a passage."

In other places the shores rise from the water's edge into small hills and descending on the opposite side form beautiful little valleys; beyond them arise other acclivities, which at length terminate at the base of lofty mountains. The country thus gently undulated is covered with rich farms, plantations, orchards, and gardens, and studded with neat and handsome dwelling-houses. The cultivated parts are intersected with small woods, coppices, and clumps of trees, which add much to the diversity of the scenery, and form a pleasing contrast to lawns, meadows, and cornfields. In several places along shore are elegant mansions and country seats belonging to the principal persons in the State of New York. Some were pointed out to us, and the names of their owners mentioned; but I only recollect those of Mr. Livingston and Mrs. Montgomery, the widow of the general who fell at Quebec. The river is also ornamented with several little towns and villages near the waterside; and except in the neighbourhood of the rocks and mountains the country appeared to be well inhabited. The fineness of the weather contributed much to heighten the beauty of the scenes which everywhere opened upon our view as the vessel glided with the stream. In short, words are inadequate to do justice to the variety and splendour of the objects that present themselves at every turn and winding of this beautiful river. The pencil of a Claude can alone delineate them as they deserve, and portray their beauties with fidelity and truth.

We had not more than half a dozen ladies on board, the rest of our numerous company were gentlemen of all descriptions. Most of them appeared to be methodists, baptists, and other dissenters, who are very numerous in the States; and it being Sunday, several of them got together and sung hymns. They had good voices and sung in different keys; but there was a melancholy monotony in the tunes which I did not much admire. We had two singing groups; one on deck, and the other in the cabin. Beside which, there was a third group assembled round a methodist parson, who harangued for a considerable time with much self-satisfaction, until he happened unfortunately to broach some curious doctrines, when he was cut short by a gentleman, who, from the opinions he advanced in opposition to the parson, seemed to doubt the authenticity of revealed religion. I really believe, however, that he was not in earnest, and only started difficulties to puzzle the other, who now quitted his preaching to enter the lists with the sceptic as he called him. For upwards of two hours they combated each other with great ardour, affording the rest of the company high entertainment. The gentleman pointed out all the incongruities in the Old and New Testament, seeming to doubt everything which had been accomplished by miracles, and challenged the other to prove their authenticity. The parson proceeded in the common-place way to satisfy the doubts of his antagonist. In some instances he succeeded tolerably well; but in others he was completely confounded, and was obliged to digress from the subject to something which he thought unanswerable by his opponent. The latter, however, endeavoured to keep him always to the point; and the parson was at times so much perplexed, that he became the butt of the company. He however bore their jokes with great good humour and patience; but finding that he could not satisfy the gentleman's scruples, he began upon politics. We soon discovered that he was a Jeffersonian; and there happening to be a large majority of federalists on board, among whom were the editor and printer of the Albany Balance, a strong anti-democratic paper, the poor parson got most roughly handled; and I perceived that it was a more difficult task for him to keep his temper upon politics than upon religion.