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Florence and Italy have been home to wealthy, noble and illustrious expatriates as well as to disputable foreign rogues and fugitives from the law. These are the
Famous expats in Italy.
Meet many of them in this book that details the biographies and passions of Famous expats in Italy. They were patrons and partiers, scholars and visionaries. Far from average residents, people like Anglo-American writer Iris Origo, collector Peggy Guggenheim, exiled Queen Helen of Romania, Danish doctor Nicholas Steno and Russian benefactor Giovanni Meyer impacted the artistic and cultural heritage of their adopted country.
With her discreet eye for stories and connections, Pirro teases out the tales of the numerous temporary or permanent expats from England, America, Russia, Germany and beyond who made their homes in Italian cities throughout the nineteenth and twentieth centuries. This collection of essays, based on the author’s column in the news magazine
The Florentine, is a treat for the seasoned Italy-lover.
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Author: Deirdre Pirro
Illustrator: Leo Cardini
Design and Layout: Leo Cardini for The Florentine Press
Editor: Alexandra Korey
ISBN 978-88-97696-13-1
E-book edition: September 2017
B’Gruppo srl, Prato
www.theflorentinepress.com
Riproduzione vietata / All rights reserved © 2017
No part of this book may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or by any information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher and the authors.
To Pietro and to Piero - and, of course, Sydney.
Thanks to all those at The Florentine who made this book possible – to Leo Cardini whose wonderful drawings always make me want to create my next book to see what it would look like; to the very hard working TF Press editor Alexandra Korey, who had the idea to publish this book; to Marco Badiani for his courage in the publishing world (which today is anything but easy), and for his belief in me and for his willingness to promote my writing; to Giovanni Giusti and Giacomo Badiani who always have a smile and a helping hand. Thanks to all the team at TF, whom I think of as friends and from whom I continue to learn much about writing and publishing.
A huge thank you goes to my editor Ellen Wert, the best one you could ever wish for. Step by step we work in unison to make every story interesting, accurate and unique - thank you, thank you Ellen.
A special thanks to Pietro for his patience, critical eye and constant encouragement and to Piero whose love and support neither I nor his father can do without.
Deirdre Pirro, August 2017
Introduction
Mathilde Bonaparte
Rose Elizabeth Cleveland
Nicholas Demidoff
Mabel Dodge
Maria (Maja) Einstein
King Farouk I of Egypt
Frederick Hartt
Maria José of Savoy
Peggy Guggenheim
John Pope-Hennessy
George Edward Stanhope Molyneux Herbert
Henry James
Alice Keppel
Ancel Keys
James Lorimer and Josephine Graham
Giovanni Meyer
Axel Munther
Alfred Guillaume Gabriel d’Orsay
Iris Origo
Joseph Pennell and Elizabeth Robins Pennell
Queen Helen of Romania
Francis Joseph Sloane
Jeffrey Smart
Nicholas Steno
Charles Edward Stuart
Gore Vidal
Giovan Pietro Vieusseux
Johann Joachim Winckelmann
For centuries, Italy has been home to expatriates—among them artists, scholars, soldiers of fortune, nobles in exile, fugitives from the law and those escaping society’s strictures. While the lives and legacy of many are lost to time, some expats made a lasting mark on their adopted home. This book profiles just some of the many industrious, notorious, illustrious, generous and scandalous expats who have called Italy home over the past 250 years.
The Grand Tour introduced a wealthy, privileged class of British and European aristocrats to Italy. Beginning in the late sixteenth century, the Grand Tour was considered the high point of a classical education (prevalently for men, of course), whereby one could see and experience celebrated ancient Greek and Roman statues and view famous ruins, art and architecture, fountains and churches. In a period when travel was arduous, often dangerous and always costly, expat Johann Joachim Winckelmann pioneered the field of art history and modern archaeology and promoted neoclassical ideals, further fanning interest in the Grand Tour.
By the third decade of the 1800s, travel had improved, with better and ever-expanding European railways and steam ship travel from America. These cheaper, safer and easier means of transport opened to a wider pool of men and women the possibility to observe, learn and explore Europe. Grand tourists frequently started their travels from London and, after a sojourn in Paris, headed for Italy. Once in Italy, they would usually arrive in Turin, visit Venice and then, before going to Rome or visiting cities in southern Italy or Sicily, they might spend a few months in Florence, where there was a considerable Anglo-Italian community served by hotels such as the Helvetia and the Bristol. In Giovan Pietro Vieusseux’s scientific and literary reading rooms, they could meet fellow countrymen and keep up with the latest news.
By the 1860s, the British, Europeans and Americans had also discovered that it was cheaper to live in Italy—and in a style they could not have approached or sustained at home. They could easily rent (or buy) and staff a villa in the countryside or a palazzo in town. This spawned the new ‘long-term’ expat. Some, like Count Nicholas Demidoff and Giovanni Meyer, were successful entrepreneurs who, out of the love of the city where they settled, became generous benefactors. Others found true what E.M. Forster wrote in A Room with a View: ‘one doesn’t come to Italy for niceness […] one comes for life. Buon giorno! Buon giorno!’
The expat phenomenon continued well into the twentieth century, when the area around the Spanish Steps in Rome was known as ‘er ghetto de l’inglese,’ the English Ghetto, and when the low-lying hills around Florence were populated by political and societal exiles such as Queen Helen of Romania, or former royal mistresses, like Alice Keppel. American art collector Peggy Guggenheim and Australian artist Geoffrey Smart found their spiritual homes in Italy, one in Venice and the other in a small town near Arezzo. Those who chafed at their home country’s confining social mores, such as Mabel Dodge, or needed to escape its notice, found a safe haven. Still others, like exile King Farouk I of Egypt, found a playground.
The expats in this book made their homes in Italy for social, political, economic and personal reasons. Only time will tell who among those who come to Italy today—by choice or by necessity—will make a mark such as those made by these ‘famous expats
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