Old Skye Tales E-Book

William Mackenzie

• Herausgeber: Birlinn
• Kategorie: Sachliteratur, Reportagen, Biografien
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 309

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2017

Beschreibung

In this book William Mackenzie records a world of local legend, folklore and superstition, and charts the changes he saw in his lifetime in agriculture, education, the Church and, of course, emigration. He recounts the history of the leading families of Skye and also the lives and experiences of the crofters, for whose rights he actively campaigned in the 1880s. Old Skye Tales is a unique and valuable record, written by a man of intelligence and sensitivity, whose life spanned both the traditional and the modern world. As well as containing a large amount of information of the geography of the island (particularly the north), there are also important sections on crofting, the Church, as well as local superstitions, sayings, second sight and even local characters of his time. An entertaining and witty book, Old Skye Tales is a marvellous resource for the historian, as well as a fascinating compendium for all those who love one of Scotland's most famous islands. It is one of the most important sources for the history of the island.

Leseprobe

OLD SKYE TALES

This edition published in 2002

by

Birlinn Limited

West Newington House

10 Newington House

Edinburgh EH9 1QS

Reprinted 2008, 2012, 2016

First edition

Skye: Iochdar–Trotternish and District 1930

and

Old Skye Tales 1934

Second edition

Old Skye Tales

Maclean Press, Skye, 1995

All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored, or transmitted in any form, or by any means, electronic, mechanical or photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the express written permission of the publisher.

ISBN13: 978 1 84158 201 6

British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication DataA catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Typeset by eidetic, Edinburgh

Printed and bound by

CPI Group (UK) Ltd, Croydon, CRO 4YY

Contents

William Mackenzie (1851–1935)

Mackenzie’s Prefaces to the First Editions

I    Wanderings in Trotternish

  1    Portree

  2    Dr Alasdair Ban Macleod

  3    Scorrybreac

  4    The Road North

  5    A Tragedy

  6    Marrishadder

  7    Townships Around Staffin

  8    Staffin

  9    Quiraing

10    Flodigarry

11    Duntulm Castle

12    Flora MacDonald’s Early Life

13    The Rescue of the Prince

14    Flora MacDonald: the End of the Story

15    Kilmuir

16    Uig

17    Kingsburgh

18    Snizort

19    A Curious Cairn

20    Eyre and Renetra

21    South Snizort

22    Treaslan and Tigh-an-Loin

23    Lyndale

II    Notable Trotternish Families

  1    The Mogstad MacDonalds

  2    The Martins of Bealach

  3    The Martins of Marrishadder

  4    The MacDonalds of Ord and Sleat

  5    The MacDonlads of Cnocowe

III    Ministerial History

  1    Kilmuir Free Church

  2    Kilmuir Parish Church

  3    Stenscholl Parish

  4    Snizort Parish

  5    Clergy and Lay Preachers of the Past

  6    Early Schools and Old Teachers

IV    Reflections and Some Old Traditions

  1    The Past and Present

  2    Rivers

  3    Hills

  4    Memorial Cairns

  5    The Crofter at Home

  6    Early Forms of Lighting

  7    Old Methods

  8    An Atrocious Institution

  9    Coille Tharabhaidh

10    Superstition

11    Second Sight

12    Old Sayings

13    The Shieling

14    Emigration

15    Soldiers of the Empire

16    The Originals

17    Old Men Who Have Quitted Life’s Stage: Their Humorous Sayings and Doings

William Mackenzie (1851–1935)

William Mackenzie was born in 1851 in Melness in Sutherlandshire, the son of Peter Mackenzie, who was born in Caithness, and Ann Mackay.

He came to Skye at an early age and attended school in Kensaleyre, where his father was schoolmaster. He also trained to be a schoolteacher and took up his first teaching appointment in Uig in 1870. Shortly after that, he married Janet Lamont from Keistal, with issue of three daughters and one son. In about 1879 he was appointed headmaster of Valtos School in Staffin.

The crofter agitation for better conditions of rent and tenure began about 1880 and Mr Mackenzie was active on behalf of the crofters at the sitting of the Napier Commission in 1884.

He retired from teaching in 1915 and was succeeded in Valtos by his eldest daughter, Abby, but continued to visit the school to teach the older boys navigation and to deputise for his daughter when she was necessarily absent from her duties.

He was a tall man of spare build, and, even in old age, maintained an erect bearing. He enjoyed working with wood until the end of his life and had an extensive knowledge of the types and qualities of various timbers. Like his father before him, he was also a keen angler.

In his retirement he began to write his reminiscences, which were published at intervals in the Oban Times newspaper from 1929. In 1930 these articles were brought together in book form as Skye: Iochdar – Trotternish and District. Further articles were combined in the book Old Skye Tales in 1934.

Mackenzie died in 1935, having been pre-deceased by his wife and all his family, with the exception of his eldest daughter. He is buried in an unmarked grave in the new cemetery at Skeabost.

Mackenzie’s Prefaces to the First Editions

Preface to Skye: Iochdar – Trotternish and District

To my fellow Skyemen, at home and abroad, I dedicate these few pages, and especially to my friends of Trotternish, among whom I spent my happy irresponsible boyhood, and whose sympathy in the sorrows of later years I valued and treasured. Many of the youthful companions of those far-away times are exiles in distant lands, and many, alas, have passed the bourne whence there is no return. To those exiled from the old homes, these pages may, perchance, enable them in fancy to tread again the hills and glens they trod in vigorous youth, mu’n do chuir iad cul ri Eilean a’ Cheo (before they turned their backs on the Isle of the Mist), perchance awaken within them some tender feeling for the land they and I love – a love that will cease not till the night clouds hover, and the darkening shadows deepen. Perchance they may be a magnet attracting irresistibly the exile across seas and lands to visit in person the surroundings of the old home, renew the old friendships, and feast upon the old familiar landscapes, recalling the weird tales attributed to haunted mountain, glen, and corrie, visiting the fairy knolls, and dark lochs harbouring their monsters, treading a land storied with the ghostly past.

Begun in days of enforced idleness, memory recalled the old, and pictured afresh the new. Should these pages afford a meed of pleasure to those for whom they were written, and to others of the race, the writer will be amply rewarded.

An caill mi cuimhn’ air comunn blath,

Na h-oìgridh chàrdeil ghrinn,

Bhiodh leam ag cluich air feadh nam blàr,

’S a’ manran mu na tuim.

Will I lose the memory of warm comradeship,

Of the comely friendly youths

Who were with me playing among the fields,

And dallying about the knolls?

William Mackenzie, 1930

Preface to Old Skye Tales

Responding to requests from many friends, far and near, for further tales of the romance, the glamour, the old beliefs, and the haunting wraiths of Eilean a’ Cheo, I have penned the following pages, which I again dedicate to my fellow Skyemen, and Gaels in general. No-one is more sensible of its defects than the writer. For these defects, incidental to the author’s eighty-fourth year, I crave the kindly indulgence of my readers. I take this opportunity of expressing my gratitude for the widespread support and appreciation vouchsafed to Skye: Iochdar – Trotternish and District. I trust a similar measure of support awaits this effort on behalf of our island homes. That support came from our great cities, equally with our rural homelands, and from every corner of our far-flung Empire, where Gaels carved out homes for the virile race from which they are sprung. In the silent hours of solitude, in the unconscious slumbers of the night, we may imagine their souls being wafted again to the hills and dales, to the glens and clachans which they or their forbears left with hearts bursting with dull sorrow, as they took a long, last farewell look on the hamlets of their youth. And we may imagine an experience, a mystical akinness to these silent shadowy beings, as they hover over the graveyard in the hollow, where sleep for centuries the loved ones gone before, whom they, in the fullness of their simple faith, believe will meet them on the further shore, where life’s troubles cease, and parting is no more.

William Mackenzie,

Blarcrian, Culnacnoc, Portree

Note: For some family history supplied, the author acknowledges his indebtedness to Lt-Col. Martin Martin of Ostaig in Sleat, and Captain Nicol Martin of Glendale, the respective heads of the Martins of Beallach and Marishadder; to Major Norman MacLeod, Col. K.L. MacDonald DSO; also to the Rev. D.A. MacDonald DD, Kilmuir, whose encouragement was a leading factor in my ‘Memories’ taking this form.

I

WANDERINGS IN TROTTERNISH

Brae Trotternish lies between Portree and Sligachan lochs. Iochdar or Lower Trotternish is the north-east wing of Skye.

1 PORTREE

Port an Righ (Portree) is where James V landed on his mission to quell his turbulent island subjects, the capital of Skye. It is situated at the head of a land-locked bay, overlooked by an amphitheatre of houses. It is the gateway to a land teeming with tradition, romance, and weird tales of the dim and distant ages, wrapt in mystery, the attraction of people from every clime. Its memories warm the heart of the exiled native, kindling in his soul the bygone times and places of youth, inflaming in his heart the desire to again live over the old scenes, the magnet which, with tender feelings, draws him homeward again – homeward again, saying, ‘Tha mi dol dachadh.’ (‘I am going home.’)

Portree’s communication is supplied by daily and weekly boats. The writer’s early remembrance of this service seventy years ago was that carried on by Mr David Hutchison, to whom lies the credit of opening up the Western Highlands and Islands. The boats were the Inveraray Castle and Mary Jane. The latter still continues her career under the altered name of Glencoe. The early captains of the Hutchison boats plying into Portree were Sinclair and Beaton. The latter was a genial, affable gentleman, always solicitous for the comfort of his passengers. The former should have been in the army. At that time, the boats were anchored in the bay till the flowing tide permitted them to get alongside the old stone pier. Even today this pier would not be the worse of some more protection than it has. Mr Peter Macdonald was the steamer agent. He occupied the block of buildings later used as a bookseller and newsagent’s shop. A peculiarity of his shop sign was that it was painted in script instead of the usual block letters. He died in 1873.

The old post office was a modest compartment in a shoemaker’s shop and the shoemaker was also the postmaster. The police force consisted of an inspector and constable in Portree, a constable in Dunvegan and one in Strath or Sleat. The inspector was a MacKay from Lochaber and, though over sixty years of age, was a fine singer of the old clan and foray songs, now long forgotten.

The village contains three commodious hotels, which seasonally are quite inadequate to accommodate the ever increasing rush of visitors attracted by the beauties of the Misty Isle, and the mystic lure of Eilean a’ Cheo is a magnet drawing such crowds that hotel accommodation must be booked far in advance. The oldest hotel is the Royal. The small thatched building to which Prince Charlie and his attendants repaired would be sadly out of place today. The earliest tenant whom the writer remembers is Mr John Ross, a rosach mor. The old Caledonian was a modest building, fronting the square, tenanted by Mr Lachlan Ross, later of the Royal Hotel, Stornoway, and, still later, the Royal Hotel, Portree. Mr Murchison succeeded in the Caledonian and the business was carried on by the family in more central premises. A hazy recollection of the Portree Hotel is the blackened ruin from which the present hotel emerged. Mr Simpson and Mr Robertson improved the Royal and Portree hotels respectively, so much that the hotels are equal to the best in the land, and the Caledonian is following suit. There are the usual plethora of churches. To the east of Portree is Creag nam Mor Shluagh (Rock of the Big Crowd). It is here the army of James V landed, and marched to, and encamped on, what is now known as the Square. The king himself, with his suite, landed at the river falling into the bay, and joined his army on the plain above. This imposing force must have made a deep impression on the recalcitrant chiefs and headmen who hurried to make their submission.

The names Bosville Terrace, Beaumont Crescent and Wentworth Street are reminiscent of an amazing romance in the life history of the seventeenth MacDonald chief, Sir Alexander. Sir Alexander MacDonald, 9th baronet, and 17th chief of the MacDonalds of Sleat, was married to Elizabeth Diana, daughter of a Yorkshire squire, Godfrey Bosville, who could show a pedigree almost as long as the MacDonalds’. A son, Godfrey, was born on 14 October 1775. He was the third child, and the second son. His elder brother, Alexander Wentworth, on the death of his father, succeeded to the titles and estates as 2nd lord MacDonald, and 18th chief of the MacDonalds of Sleat.

After his education at Harrow and Oxford, Godfrey, like his forbears, became a soldier. His father had recruited two regiments. One of these, the 76th MacDonald Highlanders, was disbanded at the close of the war. Godfrey’s active services were many and varied, including the Continent, South Africa, West Indies and other spheres. The year 1797 was an eventful one in the life of the young soldier. It is recorded that when riding in the vicinity of Hampton Court, he espied in a villa garden a lovely girl. He was smitten by her charm, and somehow procured an introduction to the family. The reputed parents were Mr and Mrs Farley Edsir, tenants of a dairy farm. Godfrey proposed marriage. To his astonishment, he was told that his suit could not be entertained, as the young lady was expected to make a great match. He told Mr Edsir that a MacDonald of the Isles was a good enough match for anyone, beyond the status of the Edsirs. Thereupon Mr Edsir told him that the young Louisa Maria was not his child, but the daughter of HRH the duke of Gloucester, brother of George III, who had married secretly the Lady Almeria Carpenter, daughter of the earl of Tyrconnel. As the duke and duchess resided abroad, few knew about the marriage. This fact altered the complexion of the affair. The girl was named after her father’s sister. Louisa was born on 6 January 1782, at Esher, Surrey, near Hampton Court, of which the duke was ranger, and the child was given to Mr Edsir, who was steward to the duke, to be brought up. Lady Almeria was given rooms in Holyrood Palace in 1809 and died there at the age of 57.

Louisa was sent back to school to Esher, and Godfrey returned to his military duties in Ireland. Before long, the impetuous and infatuated lover carried her off from school, taking her as his wife to Ireland, where he was on military duty. Being a Scotsman he married her there by ‘mutual consent’, according to the law of Scotland. The English and Irish laws do not recognise this form of marriage, and hence the troubles which followed. Godfrey still desired to have a church marriage in Ireland, but Louisa, fully believing that she and Godfrey were already man and wife, objected that Ireland was an out-of-the-way place in which to be married, and that when she had a church marriage, it should be a grand affair in England, when they got back there. But his duties in Ireland protracted his stay there.

The issue of the marriage were Alexander William Robert, born 12 September 1800; William, who died young, born on 29 August 1801; Louisa on 16 September 1802. She became countess of Hopetoun, wife of the 5th earl. Godfrey was constantly on service, not long in any place. He was now Colonel MacDonald.

The church marriage took place on 29 December 1803. The issue prior to the church marriage at Norwich, according to the English law, would be illegitimate, provided that Colonel MacDonald’s domicile was outwith of Scotland. Elizabeth-Diana was born 27 February 1804 (Elizabeth after Lady Elizabeth Carpenter and Diana after Lady MacDonald). She became Mrs Davidson of Tulloch. Julia, born 30 October 1805, became Mrs Charles Hudson. Susan Hussey, born 25 August 1807, became Mrs Richard Beaumont (Susan after Lady Susan Carpenter, marchioness of Waterford, Hussey after the countess of Tyrconnel). Godfrey William Wentworth, born 16 March 1809, was the first son, born after the Norwich marriage, and was afterwards the 4th lord MacDonald; James William was born 31 October 1810. Diana, born 12 April 1812, was afterwards Mrs Smyth of Heath (Diana after her aunt, Lady Sinclair of Ulbster, Diana MacDonald).

Before the birth of Godfrey above noted, his father and mother journeyed to Scotland, and on the 26th day of October, 1807, solemnly declared before Provost Forrest, Annan, that they had been engaged and betrothed to each other in Christmas week 1790, and from that period had understood themselves to be married. This Annan Declaration was signed by G. MacDonald, Lt-Col. 24th Regiment, Louisa Maria MacDonald, Richard Forrest, Provost, and Richard Graham and James Little, witnesses.

In 1805, after the death of William, duke of Gloucester, Mrs Edsir wrote a short statement that Louisa was not her child, embodying the facts above recorded, a true statement of the birth and parentage of Louisa. Papers in possession of Lady Almeria, which might have elucidated some points in this connection, were, at her request, buried with her.

After the elopement of Godfrey and Louisa, there is no evidence that her great-parents took the slightest notice of her. Her husband’s relations, on the other hand, took the liveliest interest in the young couple. Col. William Bosville, the maternal uncle of Godfrey, Alexander, the 2nd lord MacDonald, and James, the other soldier of the family, were all kindly disposed.

In December, 1813, Colonel Bosville died, and left his Yorkshire estates to Godfrey in liferent, and specified that should Alexander Robert MacDonald, or any issue, become entitled to the MacDonalds’ estates, the Yorkshire estates would go to Godfrey’s heirs, according to their successive and respective seniorities. Col. Godfrey then assumed the name of Bosville and went to live at Thorpe Hall. He retired from the army in 1814 with the rank of General, and was known as General Bosville till 1824. In 1812 he was again on active service in the Peninsular War, with the result that he was appointed major-general. Lord MacDonald (his father) was one of the guardians appointed by Godfrey with the care of his family during his absence. It was Lord MacDonald who paid the Harrow bills of the eldest son, Alexander William Robert.

Several more children had by this time been added to the family group – Jane Bosville, born on 25 May 1815, unmarried; Marianne, born 27 July 1816, became Mrs Henry Turner; William was born at Thorpe on 20 September 1817; Octavia Sophia was born at Thorpe on 6 February 1819. She was afterwards Mrs Hope Johnstone.

Portree

In 1824 Alexander Wentworth, 2nd lord MacDonald and 10th baronet, Godfrey’s elder brother, died unmarried, and Godfrey became 3rd lord MacDonald and 11th baronet and succeeded to the family estates in Skye, with Armadale Castle, built by his brother, as a residence. He now resumed the name of Macdonald after Bosville. Godfrey was proud of his Highland blood and famous descent, maintaining the old claims of the house of Sleat, of which he was the 18th chief and representative of the last Lord of the Isles. Glengarry did not approve of this, but though he formally objected, he did not take legal steps to enforce his claim. He, however, made himself so obnoxious that Godfrey challenged him to a duel. This did not come off. Glengarry urged Godfrey’s brother, the 2nd lord, to acknowledge him, Glengarry, as the chief of the clan. Lord MacDonald wrote in reply, ‘Dear Sir, till you prove that you are my chieftain, I am yours, MacDonald.’ Godfrey’s eldest son, Alexander, after his education, married Matilda Moffat Bayard, and they lived as the Hon. Mr and Mrs MacDonald.

Passengers aboard the steamer

In 1832 Godfrey died suddenly in Bridlington from a heart attack, aged 57 years; his widow survived him only two years, leaving a sad tragedy for his eldest son. Though the marriage by ‘mutual consent’ was a true marriage, it could not be recognised by English law. Be it said that Godfrey did all he could by re-marrying at Norwich, and by the Annan Declaration. It seemed quite clear to the parties concerned, but an eminent Scots lawyer declared the domicile at the time of marriage was English. The position for Alexander was not an enviable one, when he got the first hint that he was not Lord MacDonald. In spite of his father’s will that he, the eldest son, should have the Scots honours and estates, and the second son, Godfrey William, should have the Yorkshire estates, the position was reversed. It was Godfrey who became 4th lord MacDonald by law of succession, and his brother Alexander became invested in the Thorpe estates, dropping the MacDonald name. Alexander set out in improving the estate of Thorpe. He declined to say or do anything in the difficult position. Lord MacDonald exhausted the revenues of his Highland estates and desired to sell a part of Skye. But as the estates were entailed, he could not. Finally, a private Act of Parliament was passed settling the Thorpe estates on Alexander Bosville, and the Scots estates on Godfrey, 4th lord MacDonald, with authority to sell some to satisfy his creditors.

In 1847 Alexander died, leaving two children, a son, Godfrey Wentworth Bosville, born in 1826, and a daughter, Julia, wife of the 8th lord Middleton. Godfrey succeeded his father at Thorpe. He married in 1841 Harriet, sister of the 8th lord Middleton. A son was born on 26 September 1865, but a fortnight later the father died, so that Godfrey never raised the question of descent. The son left was named Alexander Wentworth MacDonald, and was known, like his father, as Bosville. In 1886 he married Alice Edith Middleton. On 25 September 1887, Godfrey Middleton was born, and on 28 January 1889, a daughter, Celia Violet. Advised and pressed by Clanranald, he consulted Scots lawyers. Their advice was favourable to his claim. After some delay, the case was raised in May 1909. Lord MacDonald’s trustees opposed the suit. The decision was adverse, and they appealed. This was again in Mr Bosville’s favour. The case was then proceeded with, and after a time opposition was withdrawn. Lord Skerrington, after proof, pronounced in favour of Mr Bosville. The domicile was Scottish from birth. The soldier did not lose his domicile. Thus were the loves of Godfrey and Louisa vindicated. Alexander was given his place as 12th baronet and 19th chief. The writer often heard this old story spoken about in his youth. Alexander Wentworth MacDonald Bosville became Sir Alexander Bosville MacDonald of the Isles, 21st chief of Sleat and 14th baronet of Nova Scotia. After his claim was vindicated in the Court of Session, Sir Alexander took for a time residence at Duntulm, in sight of the ruins of the old castle occupied by the chiefs of the MacDonalds for untold centuries. From the foregoing pages it will be seen that the MacDonalds are connected with many of the highest families in the land. On more than one occasion they married into royalty.

Lt-Col. Valentine Vyvian Harvey DSO, who died in 1930, aged 44 years, was a direct descendant of Davidson of Tulloch, and Diana, daughter of the 3rd lord MacDonald mentioned in the foregoing.

The old tale of the writer’s early days was that Godfrey married a dairymaid at Gretna.

There are three roads branching from the village, north, south and east. We follow the latter. On the right is Creag ’Ic Neacail, called after some Nicolson of Scorrybreac, also the Beall on the right. In the seaward face of the Beall is the Robber’s Cave. It is about 300 feet from the bottom and 30 feet from the top. Here the pirate robber, Mac a’ Choiteir, was afforded a wide vision, and could at the opportune moment intercept his prey, and secure a part of the contents of the small craft then plying. Forty years ago a rabbit trapper noticed several coins thrown out by a rabbit. Returning with a spade, he unearthed a treasure hoard of 200 pieces, all of ancient coinage, which is today in the Edinburgh Museum. What is likely is that Mac a’ Choiteir, being hard pressed, hid his ill-gotten wealth and did not survive to reclaim it.

On the Bil or Beall near Portree there are the ruins of a church, and an old graveyard long forsaken. It possibly might have been the burial place of the Nicolsons centuries ago. There is an old saying in connection with the Nicolsons: ‘Clann Mhicneacail a’Bhrochan, bithidh an t-uisge ann air latha am posaidh.’ (‘Nicolsons of the porridge: there will be rain on their marriage day.’) Opposite Beal at Camus Ban (White Bay) there is a coal mine, abandoned, however, as being uneconomic. The improved methods of today might change this, and it might be yet a boon.

2 DR ALASDAIR BAN MACLEOD

An Dotair Ban (The Fair-Haired Doctor)

Tha mi ’n duil gu’m faigh sinn bàrd,

A ni dhasan rogha daìn,

Theid a sgriobhadh air a chàrn,

A nis o’n dh’fhàg a chainnt e.

Mairi Higheann Iain Bhain

I hope we shall find a Bard

Who will compose a choice song for him,

That will be written on his cairn,

Now that he is without speech.

Mary MacPherson

No more remarkable man than the Doctor Ban MacLeod appeared in our Western Isles for more than a century. As a surgeon, engineer, reclaimer of waste land, in road-making, and general improvement of land and people, he was equally at home.

The MacLeods have given many eminent men to the ministry, the medical profession, the army, navy and other walks of life. In the medical profession there is no more outstanding figure than the Doctor Ban, and his name is a household word to this day. A very early recollection of the writer was witnessing two old women talking of him, while the tears streamed down their cheeks, lamenting the death of their benefactor. Although he was too young at the time to attach much importance to the talk, in after years he fully realised how much it meant to these women, and to the people of Skye and Uist.

Dr MacLeod was born in North Uist in 1788. His ancestors were settled in Rigg, Skye, and he was a direct descendant of Alexander V of Raasay. His father, Dr Murdoch MacLeod of Kilpheadar, served as an army surgeon in the American War of Independence, and married Mary, daughter of MacLean of Boreray. Alexander was the fifth son of that marriage. He was educated at the parish school and pursued his medical studies in Edinburgh. He qualified in 1809 and succeeded his father in medical practice in North Uist.

His fame as a doctor spread, and as there was no regular medical practice in the island, patients came from near and far, so that his house at Kilpheadar resembled a hospital, as was remarked by a resident of that time. He carried on medical practice in North Uist until about 1825. His brother, Dr Murdoch MD, practised his profession in the West Indies. A brother, John, served as a surgeon in the English Militia, and Dr Donald of Hawick retired after fifty years of service in that Border town. This was a family of doctors and many of their descendants continue in the profession to this day. The Doctor Ban’s sister married Rev. John MacIver of Kilmuir, Skye, and, like her father, possessed in a great measure practical medical knowledge, which was a great asset to her husband’s parishioners and others. She had great faith in the curative qualities of the many herbs which grew in abundance all over Skye, the efficacy of which the writer experienced more than once. But these are neglected nowadays. Another sister, Flora, returned from America on the same ship as her famous namesake, the deliverer of Prince Charlie, and witnessed the battle with the French privateer, during which the other Flora broke her arm.

The Doctor Ban had great faith in the health-giving properties of shellfish and dulse. As Mary MacPherson, the Skye poetess, has it:

Ach cuimhnichibh, a luchd mo gràidh,

Comhairlean an Dotair Bhaìn,

Thugaibh pailteas as an tràigh,

Is deanabh cal air deanntaig.

But remember my loved ones,

The advice of the Doctor Ban.

Take plenty from the seashore,

And make soup of nettles.

‘Anns an earrach an uair a bhios a’ chaora caol, bithidh am maorach reamhar.’ (‘In spring when the sheep is lean, the shellfish are fat.’)

Dr MacLeod married in 1815 Mary, daughter of Kenneth Campbell of Strond by his wife Anne, daughter of Donald MacLeod of Berneray. They had a family of two sons and four daughters.

As well as practising his profession, he was factor to Mrs MacLean of Boreray and Grimasay. He inaugurated improvements on these estates, which revealed his engineering skill and practical knowledge of land management. He rented the farm of Kilpheadar, and built a house there, which he occupied until the death of his brother Murdoch, when he moved to Baile-an-Loin. This was about 1820. Lord MacDonald, who then owned North Uist, was so struck with the knowledge and accomplishments of Dr MacLeod, that he gave him the appointment of chamberlain of his estates. This involved his living in Portree, where he was about 1829. He remained there until Lord MacDonald’s death six years later, when he returned to Uist.

He lived on his farm of Baile-an-Loin, and practised his profession. In or about 1840, he was appointed as factor to the estates of Colonel Gordon of Cluny, Benbecula, South Uist, and Barra. On Colonel Gordon’s death he returned to his practice in Uist until about 1851, when he was again to Portree, this time as doctor. Three years later, at the urgent request of the then Lord MacDonald, he took over the medical practices of Strath, Sleat, and Knoydart on the mainland. His first visit to Knoydart was on 12 April 1854, when he went to visit a shepherd’s wife, across a wild moor. On his return in the darkness, he lost his way, fell over a precipice sixty feet high, and sustained such injuries that he must have died at once. His body was found two days later and he was buried in the churchyard of Kilmuir of North Uist.

Dr Keith MacDonald, of Ord, wrote many years afterwards, ‘What a gloom it cast over the parish of Sleat. The occurrence made such a vivid impression on me, that I remember to this day; it was at 8 p.m. we heard the sorrowful news at Ord.’ That gloom was widely felt all over Skye and the Uists. His life was spent in relieving suffering humanity, and sacrificed in the end in that pursuit.

A factor on a Highland estate has not usually been a popular personage, but the Doctor Ban was an outstanding exception. In his History of the MacLeods, Alexander MacKenzie, ‘The Clach’, whose sympathies were all with the crofters and the people, says: ‘The Doctor Ban was probably the most popular man who ever acted in that capacity in the Highlands.’ A correspondent wrote to his grandson: ‘No man knew the people better than your grandfather. He understood their powers, and better still their weaknesses. He knew their capabilities, and how to apply them; a man who knew what he wanted done, and straightway proceeded to carry it out. A man of surprising activities of mind and body, he infused much of his own energy of mind and body into others.’

Dr Ban’s engineering knowledge was put to good effect in South and North Uist, beneficial alike to landlord and tenant. In both places, not only are there vast and numerous fresh-water lakes, but the coast is indented by narrow arms of the sea, penetrating far inland, but dry at low water. He conceived a method of closing these sea rivers, by erecting dams of his own invention at several places and restoring the enclosed area to agricultural land which, in time, produced excellent crops of barley, oats and potatoes, as well as pasture. Several fresh-water lakes were drained, and further areas of arable land and pasture blossomed forth, from what were waterlogged swamps. The disappearance of the lakes and narrow inlets made practicable the construction of roads leading north to south and linking east to west.

One arduous undertaking was the draining of Loch Scolpaig, which contained Dun Scolpaig, formerly represented only by a tuft of grass amid waters of the loch. The doctor had a bet with a gentleman visitor that he would drain the loch and erect a tower on the site of the dun (earthwork or castle). He set men to work, and won his bet. A cross was unearthed by the workmen, and erected on a pedestal inscribed:

This ancient cross, found in the old graveyard of Kipheadar, was erected on this pedestal by Alexander MacLeod, the Doctair Bàn, of Balelone, 1830–1840.

A tablet was later inserted and inscribed:

This tablet was inserted, and the pedestal was repaired by his grandson, Major Norman MacLeod of Calcutta, 1913–1914.

His work in draining and embanking in North Uist in 1829 gained him the recognition of the Highland Society, who presented him with a handsome pair of branched silver candlesticks.

Tower at Portree

The reclamation of the machairs (sand-dunes) serves as a permanent monument to the skill and ingenuity of Dr MacLeod. On the west side of Uist, there were miles of sandy waste, unproductive drifting sand. The idea of putting this waste area to productive use appealed to him, but the financing of the work was a problem. The crofters were deeply in arrears of rent as a result of crop failure. Here was labour to benefit them, and help them to pay off their arrears to the landlords, as well as providing increased pasturage. Two methods were employed. Where the sand was loose, he planted ‘bent’ (marram) grass, which grows only in sand. The spreading roots of this grass formed a network, which firmly binds the sand together. This ‘bent’ grass is reaped and harvested in the usual way, and is a valuable material for making thatch. Plaited and twisted, it can be worked into mats, ropes, stools, hassocks, chairs, and horse collars. In the process of time, the consolidation of the sand by the ‘bent’ roots made it stable enough to grow other grasses and clovers. The ‘bent’, besides solidifying, gave a certain amount of shelter to the other plants, and the desert became arable. Seaweed, which is in abundance on these western coasts, is a peculiarly suitable manure. The seaweed extracts moisture from the air, and in dry seasons supplies sufficient moisture to nourish the plants.

The other method was of planting turf, from the inland grasslands, in small patches. This can only be practised on fairly solid sand, but is more rapid as the patches soon spread, to increase the ground cover. The reclaimed lands, known as machairs, are the richest and most fertile parts of Uist. The ground is soft and elastic to the tread, and the herbage a most refreshing green. Dr MacLeod also advised the planting of iris flags in marshy ground in order to consolidate it.

Between these islands the sea recedes at low-water, and the passage can be made across on foot. There are pools and channels of sea left which are fordable at some places, but dangerous at others. In foggy weather, even the most familiar with these routes cross at great personal risk, for once the route is missed there is little hope for the wayfarer. To guide travellers by daylight, the Doctor Ban erected guide posts to the fords, in the shape of strong stone pillars, with guide boards on each. These were of little use in the darkness. But the ingenuity of the doctor was equal to this. He caused piles of stones to be accumulated on each side of the fords, and two rows of stones to be laid, leading out from the shore, a few yards apart. Travellers were enjoined to carry a stone from the heaps and plant it on either side of the broad path, in line with the last stone out. As the tides flowed and ebbed, a black patch of seaweed was soon attached to each stone. Thus, travellers could follow the path across the fords in the dark, guided by the dark lines of seaweed on each side.

He laid out the hill above Portree Pier to be a pleasure garden, planting flowers and flowering shrubs, and built a tower intending it to be a museum. At Portree he set about building bathing huts, which he hoped would be attractive to tourists, but that project was never completed.

When Doctor MacLeod was Lord MacDonald’s factor in Portree, he found the crofters in severe rent arrears, again because of bad harvests. He never harboured a thought of eviction, but looked about for remedial measures to benefit both tenant and proprietor. Loch Chalum Chille in Mogstad was partly but unsuccessfully drained in 1715, and again in 1760. He set men to work, and eventually finished the work with a running outlet to the sea. In a few years, the swamp produced luxuriant crops of hay, the like of which was nowhere seen on Skye. He then tackled Loch Mialt on the Staffin side. But in this he was confounded. After sinking several pits, he encountered solid rock, the excavated material consisting of petrified shells. He constructed a road from Score Gate to Duntulm, a difficult undertaking when one considers the present road.