Japan
is often called by foreign people a land of sunshine and cherry
blossoms. This is because tourists generally visit only the eastern
and southern parts of the country, where the climate is mild all
the year round. On the northwest coast the winters are long, snow
often covering the ground from December to March or April.
In the province of Echigo, where
was my home, winter usually began with a heavy snow which came down
fast and steady until only the thick, round ridgepoles of our
thatched roofs could be seen. Then groups of coolies, with straw
mats over their shoulders and big woven hats that looked like
umbrellas, came and with broad wooden shovels cut tunnels through
from one side of the street to the other. The snow was not removed
from the middle of the street all winter. It lay in a long pile,
towering far above the housetops. The coolies cut steps, for they
were carrying snow at intervals all winter, and we children used to
climb up and run along the top. We played many games there,
sometimes pretending we were knights rescuing a snowbound village,
or fierce brigands stealing upon it for an attack.
But a still more exciting time
for us was before the snow came, when the entire town was making
preparations for winter. This always took several weeks, and each
day as we went to and from school we would stop to watch the
coolies busily wrapping the statues and small shrines along the
streets in their winter clothing of straw. The stone lanterns and
all the trees and bushes of our gardens were enclosed in straw, and
even the outside walls of the temples were protected by sheets of
matting fastened on with strips of bamboo, or immense nettings made
of straw rope. Every day the streets presented a new appearance,
and by the time the big carved lions at the temple steps were
covered, we were a city of grotesque straw tents of every shape and
size, waiting for the snow that would bury us in for three or four
months.
Most large houses had thatched
roofs with wide eaves, but the shops on the streets had shingled
roofs weighted with stones to prevent avalanches when the snow
began to melt in the spring. Above all the sidewalks extended a
permanent roof, and during the winter the sidewalks were enclosed
by walls of upright boards with an occasional panel of oiled paper,
which turned them into long halls, where we could walk all over
town in the stormiest weather, entirely protected from wind and
snow. These halls were dim, but not dark, for light shines through
snow pretty well, and even at the street corners, where we crossed
through the snow tunnels, it was light enough for us to read
good-sized characters. Many a time, coming home from school, I have
read my lessons in the tunnel, pretending that I was one of the
ancient sages who studied by snow-light.
Echigo, which means “Behind the
Mountains,” is so shut off from the rest of Japan by the long Kiso
range that during the early feudal days it was considered by the
Government only a frozen outpost suitable as a place of exile for
offenders too strong in position or influence to be treated as
criminals. To this class belonged reformers. In those days Japan
had little tolerance for reforms either in politics or religion,
and an especially progressive thinker at court or a broad-minded
monk was branded as equally obnoxious and sent to some desolate
spot where his ambitions would be permanently crushed. Most
political offenders that were sent to Echigo either filled the
graves of the little cemetery beyond the execution ground or lost
themselves in some simple home among the peasants. Our literature
holds many a pathetic tale of some rich and titled youth, who,
disguised as a pilgrim, wanders through the villages of Echigo,
searching for his lost father.
The religious reformers fared
better; for they generally spent their lives in working quietly and
inoffensively among the people. Some founders of new Buddhist sects
exiled for a lifetime, were men of great ability, and gradually
their belief spread so widely that Echigo became known all over
Japan as the stronghold of reformed Buddhism. From earliest
childhood I was familiar with priest tales and was accustomed to
seeing pictures of images cut on the rocks or carved figures
standing in caves on the mountainsides—the work of the tireless
hands of those ancient monks.
My home was in the old castle
town of Nagaoka. Our household consisted of my father and mother,
my honored grandmother, my brother, my sister, and myself. Then
there was Jiya, my father’s head servant, and my nurse, Ishi,
besides Kin and Toshi. Several other old servants came and went on
occasions. I had married sisters, all in distant homes except the
eldest, who lived about half a day’s jinrikisha ride from Nagaoka.
She came occasionally to visit us, and sometimes I went home with
her to spend several days in her big thatched farmhouse, which had
been, in ancient days, the fortress of three mountains. Samurai
families often married into the farmer class, which was next in
rank to the military, and much respected, for “one who owns rice
villages holds the life of the nation in his hand.”
We lived just on the edge of the
town in a huge, rambling house that had been added to from time to
time ever since I could remember. As a result, the heavy thatched
roof sagged at the gable joinings, the plaster walls had numerous
jogs and patches, and the many rooms of various sizes were
connected by narrow, crooked halls that twisted about in a most
unexpected manner. Surrounding the house, but some distance away,
was a high wall of broken boulders, topped with a low, solid fence
of wood. The roof of the gateway had tipped-up corners, and patches
of moss on the brown thatch. It was supported by immense posts
between which swung wooden gates with ornamental iron hinges that
reached halfway across the heavy boards. On each side there
extended, for a short distance, a plaster wall pierced by a long,
narrow window with wooden bars. The gates were always open during
the day, but if at night there came knocking and the call
“Tano-mo-o! Tano-mo-o!” (I ask to enter!) even in the well-known
voice of a neighbour, Jiya was so loyal to old-time habit that he
invariably ran to peep through one of these windows before opening
the gate to the guest.
From the gateway to the house was
a walk of large, uneven stones, in the wide cracks of which grew
the first foreign flowers that I ever saw—short-stemmed,
round-headed little things that Jiya called “giant’s buttons.”
Someone had given him the seed; and as he considered no foreign
flower worthy of the dignity of a place in our garden, he cunningly
planted them where they would be trod upon by our disrespectful
feet. But they were hardy plants and grew as luxuriantly as
moss.
That our home was such a
makeshift was the result of one of the tragedies of the
Restoration. Echigo Province was one of those that had believed in
the dual government. To our people, the Mikado was too sacred to be
in touch with war, or even annoying civil matters, and so they
fought to uphold the shogun power to which, for generations, their
ancestors had been loyal. At which time my father was a karo, or
first counsellor of the daimiate of Nagaoka, a position which he
had held since the age of seven, when the sudden death of my
grandfather had left it vacant. Because of certain unusual
circumstances, my father was the only executive in power, and thus
it was that during the wars of the Restoration he had the
responsibility and the duties of the office of daimyo.
At the bitterest moment that
Nagaoka ever knew, Echigo found herself on the defeated side. When
my mother learned that her husband’s cause was lost and he taken
prisoner, she sent her household to a place of safety, and then, to
prevent the mansion from falling into the hands of the enemy, she
with her own hands set fire to it and from the mountainside watched
it burn to the ground.
After the stormy days of war were
past and Father finally was free from the governorship which he had
been directed to retain until the central government became
stabilized, he gathered together the remains of his family estate,
and after sharing with his now “fish-on-land” retainers, he built
this temporary home on the site of his former mansion. Then he
planted a mulberry grove on a few acres of land near by and prided
himself on having levelled his rank to the class of farmer. Men of
samurai rank knew nothing about business. It had always been
considered a disgrace for them to handle money; so the management
of all business affairs was left to faithful but wholly
inexperienced Jiya, while Father devoted his life to reading, to
memories, and to introducing unwelcome ideas of progressive reform
to his less advanced neighbours.
My father, however, held on to
one extravagance. The formal once-in-two-years journey to the
capital, which, before the Restoration, the law required of men of
his position, was now changed to an informal annual trip of which
he laughingly called the “window toward growing days.” The name was
most appropriate; for this yearly visit of my father gave his whole
family a distant view of progressing Japan. Besides the wonderful
word pictures, he also brought us gifts of strange, unknown
things—trinkets for the servants, toys for the children, useful
house articles for Mother, and often rare imported things for the
much-honoured grandmother.
Jiya always accompanied Father on
these trips, and, in his position as business manager, came in
contact with tradesmen and heard many tales of the methods of
foreigners in dealing with Japanese. The cleverness of the foreign
business system was acknowledged by everyone, and although
frequently disastrous to the Japanese, it aroused admiration and a
desire to imitate. A more honest soul than Jiya never lived, but in
his desire to be loyal to the interests of his much-loved master he
once got our family name into a tangle of disgrace that took months
of time and much money to straighten out. Indeed, I doubt if the
matter was ever clearly understood by any of the parties. I know it
was a sore puzzle to Jiya as long as he lived. It happened in this
way.
Jiya became acquainted with a
Japanese man, who, as agent for a foreigner, was buying up cards of
silkworm eggs from all the villages around. Such cards were
prepared by having painted on them, with a special ink, the name or
crest of the owner. Then the cards were placed beneath the
butterflies, which lay on them their small, seed-like eggs by the
thousands. The cards were finally classified and sold to
dealers.
This agent, who was a very
wealthy man, told Jiya that if mustard seeds were substituted for
the eggs, the cards would sell at a profit that would make his
master rich. This, the agent explained, was a foreign business
method being adopted now by the merchants of Yokohama. It was known
as “the new way of making Japan strong, so the high-nosed barbarian
could no longer beat the children of Japan in trade.”
As my father’s mulberry grove
furnished food for many of the silkworms in nearby villages, his
name was a good one for the agent to use, and poor Jiya, delighted
to be doing business in the clever new way, was of course a willing
tool. The man prepared the cards to the value of hundreds of
yen—all marked with my father’s crest. Probably he pocketed all the
money; anyway, the first we knew of the affair was when a very
tall, red-faced foreign man, in strange, pipe-like garments, called
to see my father. How well I remember that important day! Sister
and I, with moistened fingertips, melted tiny holes in the paper
doors, to peep at the wonderful stranger. We knew it was rude and
low class, but it was the opportunity of a lifetime.
I have no reason to think that
foreign man was in any way to blame; and possibly—possibly—the
agent also thought that he was only competing in cleverness with
the foreigner. So many things were misunderstood in those strange
days. Of course, my father, who had known absolutely nothing of the
transaction, paid the price and made good his name, but I doubt if
he ever understood what it all meant. This was one of the many
pathetic attempts made in those days by simple-minded vassals,
whose loyal, blundering hearts were filled with more love than
wisdom.
In the long winter evenings I was
very fond of slipping away to the servants’ hall to watch the work
going on there and to hear stories. One evening, when I was about
seven years old, I was hurrying along the zigzag porch leading to
that part of the house when I heard voices mingling with the thuds
of soft snow being thrown from the roof. It was unusual to have the
roof cleared after dark, but Jiya was up there arguing with the
head coolie and insisting that the work must be done that
night.
“At the rate the snow is
falling,” I heard him say, “it will crush the roof before
morning.”
One of the coolies muttered
something about its being time for temple service, and I noticed
the dull tolling of the temple bell. However, Jiya had his way, and
the men went on with the work. I was astonished at the daring of
the coolie who had ventured to question Jiya’s command. To my
childish mind, Jiya was a remarkable person who was always right
and whose word was law. But with all my respect for his wisdom, I
loved him with all my heart; and with reason, for he was never too
busy to twist up a straw doll for me, or to tell me a story as I
sat on a garden stone watching him work.
The servants’ hall was a very
large room. One half of the board floor had straw mats scattered
here and there. This was the part where the spinning,
rice-grinding, and the various occupations of the kitchen went on.
The other half, where rough or untidy work was done, was of hard
clay. In the middle of the room was the fireplace—a big, clay-lined
box sunk in the floor, with a basket of firewood beside it. From a
beam high above hung a chain from which swung various implements
used in cooking. The smoke passed out through an opening in the
centre of the roof, above which was a small extra roof to keep out
the rain.
As I entered the big room, the
air was filled with the buzz of work mingled with chatter and
laughter. In one corner was a maid grinding rice for tomorrow’s
dumplings; another was making padded scrub-cloths out of an old
kimono; two others were tossing from one to the other the shallow
basket that shook the dark beans from the white, and a little apart
from the others sat Ishi whirling her spinning wheel with a little
tapping stick.
There was a rustle of welcome for
me, for the servants all liked a visit from “Etsu-bo Sama,” as they
called me. One hurried to bring me a cushion and another tossed a
handful of dried chestnut hulls on the glowing fire. I loved the
changing tints of chestnut hull embers, and stopped a moment to
watch them.
“Come here, Etsu-bo Sama!” called
a soft voice.
It was Ishi. She had moved over
on to the mat, leaving her cushion for me. She knew I loved to turn
the spinning wheel, so she pushed the cotton ball into my hand,
holding her own safely over it. I can yet feel the soft pull of
that thread slipping through my fingers as I whirled the big wheel.
I am afraid that I spun a very uneven thread, and it was probably
fortunate for her work that my attention was soon attracted by
Jiya’s entrance. He pulled a mat over to the clay side of the room
and in a moment was seated with his foot stretched out, holding
between his toes one end of the rope he was twisting out of
rice-straw.
“Jiya San,” called Ishi, “we have
an honoured guest.”
Jiya looked up quickly, and with
a funny, bobby bow above his stretched rope, he smilingly held up a
pair of straw shoes dangling from a cord.
“Ah!” I cried, jumping up quickly
and running across the clay floor to him, “are they my snowshoes?
Have you finished them?”
“Yes, Etsu-bo Sama,” he answered,
putting in my hands a pair of small straw boots, “and I have
finished them just in time. This is going to be the deepest snow we
have had this year. When you go to school tomorrow you can take a
shortcut, straight over the brooks and fields, for there will be no
roads anywhere.”
As usual Jiya’s prediction was
right. Without our snow-boots we girls could not have gone to
school at all. Moreover, his persistence with the coolies had saved
our roof; for before morning five feet more of snow filled the
deep-cut paths and piled on top of the long white mountain in the
street.