My Footsteps on the Camino of the Stars E-Book

Francisco Moyano

• Herausgeber: Editorial Autores de Argentina
• Kategorie: Sachliteratur, Reportagen, Biografien
• Sprache: Englisch

Seitenzahl: 306

Veröffentlichungsjahr: 2023

Beschreibung

The legend says that the Milky Way has been the path set by the Santiago Apostle since the Middle Ages, to guide pilgrims on the Camino until they reach his resting place. Indeed, the name of Compostela comes from Campus Stellae (a field of stars). In 2017, I had the opportunity to do the famous "Camino de Santiago" and, after walking over 850Km, I arrived. They were intense and moving 30 days, where I walked, laughed, and cried a lot. I met people from all over the world, but perhaps, the most important thing was that I got to know myself better. Without realising, it became an internal journey more than something external. During those days, I discovered how little I needed to be happy. Whoever had the possibility of doing the Camino and becoming a pilgrim, would surely understand. To all the rest, I hope with all my heart that this book moves you to do it. You will not regret it. "BUEN CAMINO"

Leseprobe

FRANCISCO MOYANO

My Footsteps on the Camino of the Stars

My Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela

Moyano, Francisco My Footsteps on the Camino of the Stars : My Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela / Francisco Moyano. - 1a ed. - Ciudad Autónoma de Buenos Aires : Autores de Argentina, 2022.

Libro digital, EPUB

Archivo Digital: descarga y online

ISBN 978-987-87-3313-5

1. Narrativa Argentina. 2. Novelas Testimoniales. I. Título.CDD A863

EDITORIAL AUTORES DE [email protected]

Traductora: Virginia Frangella

Contents

Prologue by César González Guerrico

My pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela Introduction

Acknowledgements

WEDNESDAY, MAY 24

THURSDAY MAY 25 AND FRIDAY MAY 26

SATURDAY MAY 27

1st stage - Saint Jean Pied de Port – Burguete - (35 km)

SUNDAY MAY 28

2nd Stage - Burguete - Zubiri - (25 km)

MONDAY MAY 29

3rd Stage - Zubiri - Zabaldika - Pamplona - (25 km)

TUESDAY MAY 30

4th Stage - Pamplona – Puente La Reina - (26,5 km)

WEDNESDAY MAY 31

5th Stage - Puente La Reina- Estella - (25 km)

THURSDAY JUNE 1

6th Stage - Estella- Torres del Río - (31 km)

FRIDAY JUNE 2

7th Stage - Torres del Río – Logroño - (23 km)

SATURDAY JUNE 3

8th Stage - Logroño – Azofra - (37 km)

SUNDAY JUNE 4

9th Stage - Azofra – Santo Domingo de la Calzada - (17 km)

MONDAY, JUNE 5

10th Stage - Santo Domingo de la Calzada – Villafranca Montes de Oca - (40 km)

TUESDAY JUNE 6

11th Stage - Villafranca Montes de Oca – Burgos - (40 km)

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 7

12th Stage - Burgos – Castrojeriz - (42 km)

THURSDAY JUNE 8

13th Stage - Castrojeriz – Fromista - (30 km)

FRIDAY, JUNE 9

14th Stage - Fromista – Terradillo de los Templarios - (45 km)

SATURDAY, JUNE 10

15th Stage - Terradillo de los Templarios – El Burgo Ranero - (31 km)

SUNDAY JUNE 11

16th Stage - El Burgo Ranero – León - (37 km)

MONDAY JUNE 12

17th Stage - León – San Martín del Camino - (27 km)

TUESDAY JUNE 13

18th Stage - San Martín del Camino – Astorga - (25 km)

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 14

19th Stage - Astorga - Foncebadón - (27 km)

THURSDAY, JUNE 15

20th Stage - Foncebadón - Ponferrada - (28 km)

FRIDAY, JUNE 16

21th Stage - Ponferrada – Trabadelo - (35 km)

SATURDAY, JUNE 17

22nd Stage - Trabadelo – O’Cebreiro (Liñares) - (22 km)

SUNDAY, JUNE 18

23rd Stage - Liñares - Triacastela - (22 km)

MONDAY, JUNE 19

24th Stage - Triacastela – Sarria - (23 km)

TUESDAY, JUNE 20

25th Stage - Sarria – Portomarín - (23 km)

WEDNESDAY, JUNE 21

26th Stage - Portomarín – Palas do Rei - (26 km)

THURSDAY, JUNE 22

27th Stage - Palas do Rei – Arzúa - (30 km)

FRIDAY, JUNE 23

28th Stage - Arzúa – O Pedrouzo - (21 km)

SATURDAY, JUNE 14

29th Stage - O Pedrouzo – Santiago de Compostela - (22 km)

SUNDAY, JUNE 25

Santiago de Compostela – Finisterre - (By bus, but walking the last kilometers)

(ALMOST) FINAL REFLECTION

Prologue by César González Guerrico

I confess my ignorance. When I was young, a Marist brother from the Champagnat High School talked to us about the Camino de Santiago. His geography lesson was referring to the Milky Way - a conglomerate of stars that roam the skies of our dear Pampa plains on clear spring and summer nights. For years, that was for me the ‘Camino de Santiago’.

A recent comment from my dear friend Pancho changed my perception of what the ‘Camino’ is. It has now become a pilgrimage to the home of the Apostle who struggled to be heard by his people until he surrendered to the Virgin Mary.

Before, I had thought the Camino de Santiago to be a personal challenge to those who tried, combined with a religious spirit seeking to arrive and embrace the Saint of Compostela.

One day, Pancho came to the office we shared intermittently over twenty years, and enthusiastically commented that he was training to walk the 800 km of the Camino de Santiago. Not only that, he had also planned to start from France.

Of course, my first reaction was of surprise and skepticism. But, knowing Pancho to be tenacious and driven when something seriously interested him, it was no surprise that only a few days later, he had walked from his home to the San Isidro Cathedral and back (about 45 km). I was convinced then that he was serious. As I learned of all the preparations he was making for such an enterprise, I decided to accompany and support the project.

I attest that in Pancho’s case, the Camino started way before he boarded the flight. No detail was left to chance. From the purchase of the right equipment, to the day-to-day chronogram, as we learn in this book.

I will not stop to analyze this book. That I leave to the dear readers. I only say that it served – as I have no doubt will serve you – to awaken my appetite to live a unique spiritual experience among incomparable scenes and a mystique that, per the author, is present day-to-day until the end of the journey. The effort is worth the while.

Personally, I walked with Pancho with my prayers and thoughts. I felt very close with each piece of news he sent. I suffered with him when the test arrived.

I was moved by his generous gesture of leaving with the Apostle a cross I had given him, which had belonged to my departed mother.

Finally, I was delighted to learn of his achievement, that the reader will discern was not only a physical, but a spiritual experience of ‘before and after’.

There is more I would like to share. But, I imagine the anxiety of those who are eager to start the first pages of this book. It only remains to thank Pancho for the opportunity to write these lines, that to me, mean an invaluable token to honor our friendship.

Now, my patient, dear reader, enjoy this book! Meditate with the experiences of the Camino. Walk alongside the author, get tired with him, rest ... and dream of daring!

My pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela Introduction

Between the days of May 27 and June 25, 2017, I had the most inspirational experience I was ever lucky enough to experience:

“Walking El Camino de Santiago”.

The Camino de Santiago is a pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela (Galicia, Spain) to visit the tomb of the Apostle Santiago.

It is said there are as many Caminos as people seeking to reach Santiago. Today, there are many trails to Santiago de Compostela: The Primitive Camino, the British Camino, the Portuguese Camino, the Northern Camino, and the Silver Way Camino, among others. The most famous and most historical is the “French Camino”.

After the discovery of the Apostle Santiago’s tomb in the IX Century, the French Camino has been the route most traveled by pilgrims coming from various points in Europe.

France is the common entry to the Spanish Peninsula, and the Pyrenees is its most habitual border.

The “French Camino” was declared a World Heritage site by UNESCO in 1993 and is also known as the “Main Road of Europe”. It starts at the French town of Saint Jean Pied de Port, located on the other side of the Pyrenees. It is believed that 7 out of 10 pilgrims that arrive at Santiago go through it.

In all its trajectory, the “French Camino” crosses over 230 towns, mostly small villages with few inhabitants. Also, this Camino goes through important cities (Pamplona, Logroño, Burgos, León) and finally, Santiago de Compostela.

Once crossing the Pyrenees, one arrives at Roncesvalles, which is another popular starting point, but in Spanish territory. From there, it is more than 800 km crossing Spain, from East to West, until finally reaching Santiago de Compostela.

That is the Camino I made. During 30 days, I walked about 865 km, although in my case, after arriving at Santiago, I continued until Finisterre, a small Spanish peninsula in the locality of La Coruña (Galicia). This peninsula protrudes into the Atlantic Ocean forming what is known as “the Finisterre Cape’’, famous for being considered one of the utmost westerly points in continental Europe, and known in antiquity as the end of the world (from Latin finis//terrae).

The Camino is an experience that can be embarked from various perspectives: as something religious or spiritual, as an adventure, an excursion, a personal challenge, or an internal journey.

In my case, I cannot say that it had been for only one reason. It was a combination of all, as I am convinced that the Camino gave me all and more.

I had once read that there is always more than one Camino for the pilgrim. On one end, there is the actual Camino, the one with stages through diverse terrains and landscapes, the Camino we make with our feet while carrying our backpacks, that is, the physical challenge.

This Camino can be walked alone or together with other pilgrims, traversing and sharing the same paths, oftentimes the same lodgings, the famous canteens and places to eat, rest and relax.

In fact, how many times have I walked alongside a pilgrim, stopped seeing each other for a few days, and later met again at a lodging or resting place? We would acknowledge and greet each other, be happy to learn the other was fine and perhaps share an appetizer or picada, a meal, or simply a nice conversation starting with the classic, Buen Camino.

But, there is another Camino and it is the “journey deep inside oneself”. It goes straight to our heart. This journey is deeply personal.

Even if we travel alongside other pilgrims, we travel alone in this other Camino. Nobody else can walk “Our Camino”.

As a pilgrim, I walked through easy and hard stages, some I wish could be re-lived, others I would rather not but surely, I learned from them all.

And I learned a lot. As I walked and my feet got tired, my mind also experienced things which made me realize that the same happened on “both Caminos”.

This is because the Camino talks to you. Yes, even if what I write seems strange.

As pilgrims, sooner or later the Camino talks to us, to each in a different way and at different times, but always conveying something, be it through a landscape, a resting place, a specific spot or a sign to be interpreted.

We must pay attention to the signs the Camino shows us along the days, because it will always have something to teach us, and there is always something to learn.

In my case, I walked the Camino alone. In truth, I was never ‘alone’ in the Camino. I am convinced that traveling and meeting other pilgrims had a purpose. I think that nothing is by chance and we can freely elect to take the learning or leave it, but from all we learn.

After walking almost 900 km in 30 days I realized how little I needed to be happy. The reasons I say this are many but just to name a few, I spent 30 days with a backpack weighing 7.5 kg in total. It contained a long and a short pair of pants, a pair of good trekking shoes, 3 shirts, 3 underwear shorts, 3 pairs of socks, sandals, a raincoat, a fast drying towel, the basics for personal care, a cell charger, and personal documents. Nothing else.

My backpack was my home for over 30 days and I assure you I did not need much more. This was enough and I was a happy man, content and fortunate during those days.

Within these lines I do not mean to explain what the Camino de Santiago is, its history, how to travel, or what to bring. There are many pages written that explain such topics in great detail. There are guides, books, testimonies, videos galore that illustrate the rich history of the Camino for over 1,000 years.

I simply wished to write about my own experience after walking for a month. Four years have passed and I remember almost every day what the Camino meant to me.

While I was there, I wrote in a diary about how I lived in each stage. Every afternoon, upon arriving at a lodging, I would write in my diary. I did that as a reminder to share with my family and friends upon returning home.

Of course, I also took many pictures and videos.

During the quarantine caused by the Covid 19 world pandemic, and while recovering from heart surgery in February 2020, I re-read my diary and looked at the pictures and videos I took along the Camino. While remembering those days, I felt the need to transcribe more than I had written at the time.

It is said that the real Camino starts once we arrive at Santiago; what we believe is the end, is in fact the beginning.

I recall that during the last dinner with my friends at Santiago, I mentioned the famous saying that states, ‘A person throughout their life should plant a tree, have a child and write a book’, to which I would add, ‘and walk the Camino de Santiago’. I had completed 3 things, and the only thing remaining was writing a book.

I will strive to share my day-to-day journey. I am not a dexterous writer, but this experience has made me do things I would not dare do in the past. Writing is one of them.

I made some modifications in this new edition of the book. In response to questions from readers, I noted the number of kilometers walked daily at the beginning of each stage. This is an approximation given the reference number does not consider what I walked within the towns crossed. I can assure you that sometimes, I walked blocks and blocks that added up kilometers through the day.

I also added to each stage a brief reflection of what I experienced as well as phrases I had read along the Camino. Some because I liked and touched me at some point, and others because they reflected exactly what I lived those days.

Speaking of phrases, I recall reading the following upon arriving at León after a stage that was very important in my Camino because of what I lived there. It moves me to this day:

“The Camino is like life, there are good moments and bad moments, of happiness and sadness, contentment and trouble, of great energy and tiredness, but the most important thing is to never stop walking”.

Acknowledgements

The list of people I would like to mention in this second edition is long and I do not want to miss anyone.

To my daughters Catalina and Lucía, and my siblings who were always there with me along the Camino.

To my mother and my brother Ramón who surprised me with a 3-day visit to Madrid before returning home.

To my cousins, friends and other people who prayed for me, and I prayed for them.

To Mary and Jesus, for accompanying and protecting me during those days. I prayed a lot and felt them closer than ever.

To my dear friend César González Guerrico who lived ‘my Camino’ as if he was there, and was the person who most urged me to write this book.

To Virginia who inspired me to write this second edition. She dedicated long hours to the review, correction and translation of each paragraph. Lots of patience and work. Many thanks to my dear Vir. You know how much I value it.

To all pilgrims I met on the Camino, many of whom I may never see again, but without a doubt will always remain in my memory.

A special mention to my cardiologist and now good friend, Jorge Bilbao, who’s timely and correct diagnosis resulted in my successful heart surgery (February 20, 2020). Dear Jorge, thank you again, you saved my life!

I would like to also thank people who were very important to me after the difficult year of 2020. I can say without a doubt that they were my angels. I felt their help and constant support in my soul. Many thanks to Ines Carafi (my coach), my nieces and nephews Guillermo, Pancho and Alicia, and my niece Olivia who designed the covers of this book.

Last, to all who through their great generosity made it possible to publish the first edition: my mother, my brothers and sisters Alicia, Juan Pablo and Ramón, and dear Carlos (my almost older brother).

Wednesday, May 24

Early morning in Buenos Aires. “The day arrived at last”.

It was very hard for me to sleep through the night, as my nerves and anxiety kept me company.

Five months earlier, I had safely packed all I needed to bring in my backpack but, inevitably I mentally reviewed where I put everything, and what I needed to buy in Pamplona, the last city I would visit before starting my walk.

I arrived at 9 am at the airport as the flight to Santiago, Chile, departed at noon. From there I had a connecting flight to Sao Paulo, to finally land in Madrid. Everything had been organized many months in advance, so nothing could go wrong, or could it?

The first leg of the trip was perfect as we departed on time to Santiago and from there, to Sao Paulo in a relaxed flight.

I remember I was lucky to get 2 free seats beside mine, allowing me to settle comfortably in 3 seats.

Upon arriving at the Sao Paulo airport around 9:30 pm, we were informed that the 10:45 pm flight to Madrid had been canceled and that it would depart the next day at 11 am.

For me it was bad news as it complicated my plans for the first 3 days.

To begin with, I would lose my bus ticket from Madrid to Pamplona and the hotel Eslava reservation for the night of the 25th.

I had also reserved a lodging on the 26th at Saint Jean Pied de Port. So, I needed to figure out a way to sleep there that day.

I began to get anxious, but it was out of my control. Besides, I could not recognize anyone else wearing a backpack or something that might make me think they were also doing the Camino. I must recognize the LATAM crew were brilliant. They managed to lodge all 35 passengers that went to Madrid at a decent hotel near the airport.

To speed things up, they also gave us a voucher to use at the hotel’s restaurant. The food and the courtesy shown to us placated everyone’s nerves. In the end, it had been an unforeseen circumstance that was well resolved and, we landed in Madrid the next day.

THURSDAY May 25 and FRIDAY May 26

Despite my nerves and anxiety, I slept well. We left directly to the airport at 7 am after breakfast. There, I met Loana who coincidentally was going to the Camino, leaving from Saint Jean Pied de Port.

As soon as I learned we were headed the same direction, I was greatly relieved.

Loana told me she also had to be at Saint Jean on the 26th and upon learning the flight had been canceled, she returned home to figure out options out of Madrid. She said,

- Pancho, do not worry, I have figured out what to do upon arriving in Madrid. We will take the train and be at Saint Jean on the 26th.

Surely, my relief was impossible to hide. The day had started well for me.

Luckily, the flight left on time and after 10 hours we arrived in Madrid at 3 am on May 26. There is a 5-hour difference between Madrid and Buenos Aires or Sao Paulo.

We had to kill time at the airport, and about 6 am we took the train to the terminal in Madrid (Atocha). From there, we went directly to Pamplona at 7:30 am, where we arrived around mid-morning.

Loana met with other Brazilian friends at the terminal - Emilio and Lady - who were waiting for her to go to Saint Jean via taxi.

They offered to share the taxi with me, but I had to buy a few things in Pamplona and would later take a bus to Saint Jean. Instead, they gave me a lift to the sports store where I bought the things I still needed. Truly recommended.

I was alone in Spain for the first time, with my backpack, my thoughts, and my keen anxiety to get started. After buying what I needed, I took a local bus back to the Pamplona terminal.

I arrived at the terminal at noon, bought the bus ticket I had reserved for Saint Jean and walked a little given the bus departed at 2:30 pm. As the bus terminal was located far from the old part of Pamplona and the walled zone where the San Fermin festival happens, I decided to just walk around the area.

The first thing I did was to purchase a SIM card for my cell phone (from Orange), and from there, find a local bar to enjoy my first Spanish potato (patatas) tortilla.

At 2 pm, I returned to the terminal where I met about 15 other pilgrims from different countries. They weren’t difficult to spot given we had similar clothing and backpacks but above all, a familiar level of anxiety.

The bus ride took a little over 2 hours through beautiful landscapes. I got a glimpse of where I would be walking the following days, but going the opposite way. I observed lots of greenery, and picturesque towns. After crossing the Pyrenees, now on the French side, we reached Saint Jean Pied de Port.

Upon arriving at 4:45 pm, I went straight to register at the Beilari hostel located at the Rue de la Citadelle, where I had made my reservation from Buenos Aires. It included boarding, a welcome dinner with other pilgrims, and breakfast the next day for only 35 euros. It was the only time I would pay such a high amount for a night, as I knew beforehand that this town was the most expensive of the Camino.

As I had time until 7 pm for the welcome dinner, I decided to walk around Saint Jean.

Just across the lodging was the Pilgrim’s Office and seeing few people, I went in to purchase a Pilgrim’s Credential.

The receptionists were quite welcoming and luckily, there was one who spoke Spanish well. Upon sharing where I was coming from, he put my first seal on my Credential.

He also gave me a pamphlet describing all the ‘traditional’ stops of the French Camino, with distance indications between towns, challenges, as well as information about lodgings, points of interest, and tips to have in mind during the Camino.

Before leaving, he invited me to grab a Vieira from a basket. A Vieira is a symbol representing the Camino that pilgrims usually hang from their backpacks. I selected one and upon thanking him, he said goodbye with a BUEN CAMINO, PILGRIM.

That was the first time I heard it addressed to me. I must admit it seemed a curious expression at the time, and I would come to understand its meaning in the coming days.

I started to look like a pilgrim, or at least, I held something official to prove it. Now, I needed to demonstrate it starting the next day.

Afterwards, I went to explore the small streets of Saint Jean. I walked up the Rue de la Citadelle which is a cobblestone street located over the De Mendiguren hill. It has many lodgings for pilgrims as well as typical diners and shops for anything one might need at the Camino.

Saint Jean has about 1,500 inhabitants. It is a small, medieval French town with streets, bridges and buildings that reminded me of another era. Its well-preserved defense walls give it a unique look.

After climbing about 70 meters uphill, the view of the city was incredible, like something out of a storybook.

I explored all its streets and stopped at a bar for a drink. I remember checking out other people who looked to be from other parts of the world, and thinking that we were all foreigners in that place, but surely, starting tomorrow the Camino would make us fellows of the road.

While I sipped my drink, I looked at my Pilgrim’s Credential.

The Credential is a document given to walkers before starting the Camino which certifies them as pilgrims. It looks like a passport made of cardboard where pilgrims register their journey.

Each town’s lodgings, churches and restaurants generally have an identifying seal of the place. It is a way of accreditation that the pilgrim passed through.

Once arrived at Santiago, all pilgrims can request to be given the ‘Compostela’, which is a certification that proves the pilgrim walked at least the last 100 km, or rode the last 200 km on bicycle.

To obtain it, a pilgrim goes to the Pilgrim’s Office located near the Santiago Cathedral and shows all the seals stamped on the Credential throughout the Camino.

I returned to my lodging and asked that my Credential be stamped. Later, we met at the garden for the community dinner and introductions.

Everyone’s emotions and anxiety to start the Camino were palpable. We were 15 pilgrims of 8 different nationalities. There I ran into the Brazilians I had met with Loana in Pamplona: Emilio and Lady.

The locals at the lodging gave us tips on how to tackle the next day’s stage like, locating the strategic rest stops, staying always on the road, avoiding deviations, and if possible, walking close to other pilgrims. As it was the first leg and one of the most challenging of the Camino, it had to be approached with precaution.

Also, we were explained behavior and cohabiting rules and noted that lights would be turned off at 10 pm and everyone should remain silent afterwards.

After dinner, we went to our rooms which I shared with a Belgian and an American. The American was traveling with his daughter who was lodged in another room with two other women. They had planned to go to Burgos only. Whereas, the Belgian was going to walk to Santiago.

I thought it would be difficult to fall asleep given my nerves and anxiety but, I fell asleep rather quickly thanks to the wine served during dinner, and the exhaustion accumulated from the prior day.

SATURDAY MAY 27

1st stage – Saint Jean Pied de Port – Burguete (35 km)

I woke up at 6 am and shared a nice breakfast with a few pilgrims and the owners of the lodging. I bid them farewell not before writing a thank you note on the visitor log. I truly recommend this lodging.

A few minutes before 7 am, I descended through Rue de la Citadelle towards a stone archway known as ‘Santiago’s Door’, a World Heritage site. There, I crossed Napoleon’s Bridge over the Nive River - where the Camino officially starts - and through the Rue D’Espagne. With these first steps, I was starting an unforgettable adventure.

This stage can be tackled through 2 distinct trails. One is known as the Valcarlos Road, which goes alongside the road and through the hills, but does not ascend much.

The other is known as the Napoleon Road. Although more taxing, it has spectacular views as it climbs to the top to cross the Pyrenees.

As the weather predicted a clear day, I decided to take the Napoleon Road. History says Napoleon’s troops crossed this way when invading Spain.

It is a hard stage, probably the most demanding of the Camino, as within a few blocks of leaving the town, the road climbs more than 15 km until reaching an altitude of 1,570 meters.

The climb of the first steep ramp running for half a kilometer anticipated the day would be demanding.

As I forged on, always among green fields and mountains, I could see houses and farms amid the hills that made me feel at peace, and a healthy envy of those living there.

Also, from time to time, I could see pilgrims walking far ahead, as an indication of where to go on the trail.

From the start, there was a lot of fog and I kept being surprised by the views at the next bend on the Camino.

After the first hour and around kilometer 4 into the stage, the Camino left the asphalt road and went through steep climbs while crossing mountains with breathtaking views of valleys with many shades of green. As the sun came up, the fog lifted, and the contrast between the light and shadow began showcasing spectacular views.

After the steep climb, I returned to the asphalt road where practically no cars passed by.

A little after 9 am and after making the first 8 km, I arrived at the famous Orisson Refuge at the foot of a hill, a place I stopped for a coffee, recharged water and stamped my Credential. It was my third seal but the first on the Camino. How many seals would I get?

From its terrace, the refuge has incredible views of the Pyrene Valley. It is located strategically and is sought after by many pilgrims to sleep the first night as a way to split this hard stage in 2 segments. I recommend making an advance reservation as it is always full.

After a brief rest, I continued my journey.

From there, I faced several kilometers of climbing without a place to rest.

As I climbed, I crossed one mountain after another, and that way traversed through the Pyrenees. The views were incredible. I could fill many pages with pictures of this stage.

The sheer number of sheep grazing in the meadows and the most beautiful horses freely running alongside us caught my attention.

Around 10:30 am, I arrived at a stop where the Virgin of Biakorri’s statue stands over rocks at 1,100 meters above sea level. She is known as the protector of the shepherds and entrusted by many pilgrims to protect them during the Camino.

I deviated 50 meters, and stopped for 5 minutes to pray for her blessing and protection in the Camino.

By now I was completing the first half of the stage.

From there, the view was unique as we were at the top of a mountain and below us, the clouds. The sky was clear, allowing me to take many pictures and film breathtaking views.

As I climbed, the wind felt strong with its typical whistling, although it was pleasant to walk with a temperature of 17°C.

Further ahead, I left the asphalt road to enter a dirt path, and around Thibault’s Cross, I turned towards a peak called Collado de Bentarte.

After crossing that hill which had fantastic views on all sides, the Camino became a flat terrain until reaching the famous Roldán Fountain, a mandatory stop for a picture, and for many, it marks the limit between French and Spanish territory.

Then, on Spanish territory (Navarra), the Camino again climbed until crossing the tallest peak of the stage, the Lepoeder Peak (Collado de Lepoeder), located at around 1,475 meters high where there was a lookout post to take pictures, and gaze at Roncesvalles.

After this point, I started an incline of around 600 meters towards Roncesvalles, which is located at about 900 meters above sea level.

On the first part of the slope, I walked on a wide path within a wooded area of very tall trees. At first, I saw them on the right-hand side behind a wire fence, and later after crossing some fences, I found myself walking deep in the woods.

After trekking on uneven terrain in the mountain, stepping in the woods felt as if I was walking over a large cushion of loose leaves that made the walk quite pleasant. Surely, it would be quite dangerous and slippery with snow or rain, but luckily it wasn’t the case then.

I took several pictures in the woods while thinking that it might be somewhat dangerous at dusk or with a lot of fog. It is important to reach this place with sufficient time and if possible, visualize other pilgrims nearby.

After about 7 hours on the Camino and a stage that surely was worth experiencing, I arrived at Roncesvalles around 1:45 pm.

The Camino ended at the famous pilgrim lodging of the Collegiate of Roncesvalles. I went there directly to stamp my Credential. Located beside a church, it is a large and picturesque lodging with a capacity for 200 beds.

Because it is the starting point of the Camino on the Spanish side, it is always full.

Knowing that the first stage from Saint Jean was the most challenging, I had decided it would be convenient to sleep well that night, for which I had made a room reservation at a hotel in Burguete months in advance.

As I continued my journey to Burguete I heard someone shout, Pancho! I looked up at the other side of the road and saw several pilgrims at a bar. Among them were Loana, Emilio, Lady and another Brazilian I didn’t know, named Dorvalino Lovera.

They had arrived earlier as they had split the stage in two, from Saint Jean to Orisson (8 km) where they slept, and walked the second, less taxing stretch to Roncesvalles.

While chatting for a few minutes with a beer in hand, they asked where I would sleep, and I responded I had a reservation at the hotel Burguete located 3 km ahead.

As I intended to be at the pilgrim’s mass at 6 pm in Roncesvalles, I would continue my journey until reaching the hotel to register, rest a while, take a shower and later return to the mass

We agreed to meet at the mass. After a beer and a bocadillo or snack – a prosciutto and cheese sandwich - I continued to Burguete.

It was over 2.5 km of walking in the woods, entertained by the noise of the road nearby.

It took me about half an hour to reach the hotel (hostal), where I got the keys to a room on the second floor. As the room had a bathtub, I took a shower first and then made a plug with a plastic bag so I could fill the bathtub. I stayed there for an hour, a true pleasure that restored my energy.

I slept until 5 pm. Even if I felt recharged, I admit that the idea of walking backwards to return to Roncesvalles, and then back to the hotel was not appealing, especially after an arduous stage of almost 30 km.

As I was organizing my backpack I realized that I didn’t have my swimming trunks. I remembered then that upon arriving at the Colegiata to have my Credential stamped, I took it out from my backpack and left it on a chair nearby.

Thinking my swimming trunks were lost, I thought to myself, Pancho, you are going to have to buy shorts somewhere on the road.

Finally, I decided to return to Roncesvalles for the pilgrim’s mass.

Before entering the church, I tried returning to the place where I had sealed my Credential and there, resting in the same chair were the swimming trunks I had forgotten 4 hours earlier. I thought this was the first sign from the Camino.

The pilgrim mass was spectacular, quite moving.

The mass was celebrated by several priests, where they named all the countries where pilgrims had arrived that day. When they said ‘a pilgrim from Argentina’